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A HANDBOOK 

TO 

INDIA 

BURMA AND CEYLON 


I 





* *This sign in the text appended to a name indicates 
that fu?^ther information relating to the subject is to be 
found in the index and directory at the end of the 
book. 


INDIAN CURRENCY 

The leading idea is that one anna = one penny, one rupee — i6 annas 
= is. 4d. ; and 15 rupees — {In Ceylo 7 t., the rupee is divided 
into 100 cents.) 

Government of India Notes (valued, rupees 5, 10, 50, 100) 
circulate throughout India. The notes of the Presidencies are 
subject to a rate of exchange Outside their respective Presidencies : 
they are gradually being superseded by Government of India 
Notes. 

Silver Coins — 

I Rupee — 16 annas — is. 4d. 

15 Rupees = /i- 
Rupee = eight annas — 8d. 

Rupee = four annas — 4d. 

Rupee = two annas ^ 2d. 

Nickel Money — 

1 Anna (distinguished from the 4 anna piece by its wavy edge). 

Cop>per Coins — 

I Anna = four pice — twelve pie = id. 

I Anna — two pice = six pie — |d. 

I Anna — one pice = three pie. 

Postage Rates in India — 

Post Card, ^ anna. 

Letter not exceeding i tola, ^ anna. 

„ exceeding i tola, but not exceeding 10 tolas, i anna. 

„ every additional 10 tolas, or part of that weight, i anna. 

(Book Post, every 10 tolas anna). 

To all British Possessions i anna per oz. 

To Foreign Countries 25 annas per oz. 

Telegraph Rates — 

(a) Inland Telegrams— 

Urgent 
Ordinary ... 

(b) To Europe (except Russia and Turkey) 

via Turkey 

„ via Suez or Teheran 

British Indian Money and Postage Stamps are current in all 
Native States. The coins and stamps of Native States are 
limited to the territories of their respective States. 


Per unit of 
12 words. 

RS. ANNAS. 

I O 
O 8 


Per word 
additional. 
kS. ANNAS. 
O 2 
O \ 


I 6 per word, 
i „ 



-A HANDBOOK FOR 
TRAVELLERS IN - . 
INDIA 



BURMA AND CEYLON 

v'A 

INCLUDING 

ALL BRITISR-JKDIA, THE PORTUGUESE AND FRENCH 
POSSESSIONS, AND THE PROTECTED NATIVE 
STATES. 


■■ J ' . 1 T 

-*• J. 


‘ India and the Golden Chersonese 
And utmost Indian Isle Taprobane, 

Dusk faces uith white silken turbans wreathed.” 

— Milton, Pur. iv. 74-76. 



JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET 

1919 



csairmAL 

ijERAEY^ mm mMML 
As»^ ISb. XMIJ5.... 

Jllite. ...... 









PREFACE TO THE TENTH EDITION 


This, the Tenth Edition, has been prepared by the same methods 
and on the same lines as the Ninth. Mr Murray and the Editor 
desire again to acknowledge gratefully the kindly ^heip which they 
have received from a very large number of officers and others in 
India and England. Serious difficulties have sometimes occurred 
owing to the War : and it is feared that in some cases valuable 
information has been lost ‘‘through enemy action.” If imperfections 
and deficiencies are noticed, these causes may be offered generally 
as the explanation. 

C. E. BUCKLAND, 
/-CN. {retired). 

1 st April igi8. 


PREFACE TO THE NINTH EDITION 

The complete revision of a Handbook is perhaps a suitable occasion 
for a revised preface to it, and for the brief record of the birth and 
growth of the work. 

The Handbook of India was originally published by Mr John 
Murray in three separate volumes, for the Bombay, Madras, and 
Bengal Presidencies, The first two of these parts appeared in 1859, 
the Bengal volume not till 1882. A fourth volume, dealing with the 
Panjab and North-West India, was added to them in 1883. They 
were all prepared by the late Captain E. B. Eastwick, M.P., who made 
long visits to India, in the fifties, sixties, and seventies, in order to 
collect the material for them on the spot. When it is recollected how 
incomplete the railway communications between the different parts of 
India then were, that the Imperial Gazetteer^ edited by Sir W. W. 
Hunter, had not yet appeared, and that up to the time very few volumes 
of District Gazetteers had been issued, it \vill readily be conceded that 
Captain Eastwick’s task was a difficult and laborious one, and that 
allowance might be fairly claimed for any shortcomings in the volumes 
' om piled by him. 



VI 


PREFACE 


These volumes were amplified and brought up to date on several 
occasions, and in 1892 condensed into a single volume of 500 pages, 
which was again revised in 1894, 1898, 1901, 1904, 1909, and 1911. In 
the course of these revisions much additional information was added 
to the Introduction regarding the people of India and the religions, 
architecture, and arts of the country ; maps of the rainfall, temperature, 
and local products of the country were inserted ; to a brief special 
account of the Mutiny of 1857 was added a map showing the dis- 
tribution of the army in India at that crisis, the faultiness of this 
being mainly responsible for the serious proportions which that out- 
break ultimately assumed ; the arrangement of the book was largely 
recast in accordance with recent railway developments, and the 
account of nearly all the principal places in India was rewritten on the 
topographical plan, which is usually found to be the most convenient 
by travellers using a guide-book on the spot ; brief sketches of the 
Muhammadan and Hindu Rulers of India, and of the Mahrattas and 
Sikhs were included ; fuller accounts were given of the chief religions 
prevalent in India ; brief notices were inserted of the form of adminis- 
tration of the Indian Government, of irrigation, famine, and plague, of 
the working of the railway, postal, and telegraph Departments, and 
of the Christian Religion ; some new maps were added from time to 
time, and improved maps substituted, brought up to date. All this 
was necessitated, to quote the words of the first edition of the con- 
solidated Handbook, by the fact that time and events have effected 
great changes, not only in the country itself, but also in the farilities 
for reaching it from all parts of the world, and for travelling through- 
out the peninsula. The public, moreover, are yearly becoming better 
aware of the glorious field which in India is opened up for the enjoy- 
ment of travel and sport, and of the inexhaustible opportunities afforded 
them for the study of an engrossing history, an interesting nationality, 
and an unrivalled art, as displayed not only in architectural monuments, 
but also in native industries and handicrafts.” 

The description of Ceylon was originally written by the late Lord 
Stanmore and subsequently revised by him. 

In the present edition the general scheme of the Handbook has 
been maintained. Every portion of the Introduction has been care- 
fully examined ; many of the sections have been rewritten and 
corrected by the light of further knowledge ; some new sections 
and maps have been added; the figures of the last census of 1911 
have been adopted wEerever available—tbe general object has been 
to provide the best and newest information attainable regarding the 
country and places mentioned, the means of travel, and the sights 
best worth seeing. 



PREFACE 


Vll 


The spelling followed, nearly always, has been that adopted in the 
General Index of the Imperial Gazetteer of 1909 (Atlas Volume, xxvi.), 
which has, at any rate, official authority. This system is admittedly 
based to some extent on compromise, and may, therefore, be not 
altogether acceptable to those who would make no exceptions in 
favour of the older, though irregular, spelling of certain well-known 
places. While this system has been consistently observed in the 
body of the work, the existing maps have not been corrected to 
conform to it, but the small differences will not affect their utility. 

No attempt has been made to indicate tours in India, as these 
must depend so much upon the tastes and interests of individuals. 
The list of routes on pages xiii-xv will, it is believed, enable travellers 
readily to form for themselves any tours they may wish to make ; 
and all further details can be obtained from the Railway Guides of 
India, or from Messrs Thomas Cook & Son, who have branch offices 
at Bombay, Calcutta, Rangoon, and Colombo. 

The special feature of this edition is that many of the changes 
effected in it are based on the voluntary, unofficial, and courteous 
co-operation of officials and other residents in all parts of India, 
Burma, and Ceylon, who have access to the best and newest 
information. To the several Governments, who, with hardly an 
exception, graciously allowed their officers to be addressed ; to the 
officers in India, Burma, and Ceylon who have so obligingly favoured 
him with their assistance ; to certain officers at the India Office 
who have facilitated his labours ; and to certain experts who have 
liberally contributed their special knowledge, the Editor desires to 
offer his sincere thanks. To each and all of them he wishes to express 
his grateful acknowledgments. No care or trouble has been spared, 
on his part, to make the book complete and thorough m all details, 
so far as space has permitted. 

Mr Murray desires to associate himself with the Editor in 
recording his best thanks to all whom the latter has mentioned 
for the great help with which they have favoured him. He trusts 
that this effort to add to the truth available about India, to make 
better known the splendid sights of the country, and to afford 
assistance to travellers, will conduce to a fuller appreciation in 
England of the great Dependency so ably governed and administered 
by successive generations of officers. To many visitors to India, 
friends, and travellers, from whom he has received valuable aid, 
Mr Murray desires to express his gratification at the very kindly 
recognition accorded by them to the usefulness and completeness 
of the Handbook. 

As was noted in a former edition of the Handbook, u is 



vni 


PREFACE 


impossible to ensure perfection in any guide-book, however carefully 
prepared. The publisher therefore hopes that where inaccuracies are 
found the indulgent traveller will kindly point them out to him, with a 
view to their correction on the first opportunity. Any such accept- 
able communications may be addressed to Mr Murray, 50A Albemarle 
Street, London, W.” 


July 1913. 


C. E. BUCKLAND, 
LC-S. {retirea). 



COxXTENTS 


PARK 


List of Maps and Plans . 

XI, xii 

List of Routes through India, Burma, and Ceylon . 

xiii-xv 

Introductory Information — 


(i.) General Hints — 


English La.nguage ..... 

XVI 1 

Season for Visit to India ..... 

xvii 

Expenses ... ... 

xviii 

Motoring . . 

xviii 

Clothing . .... 

XX 

Bedding ... ... 

xxii 

Travelling Servants ... 

xxii 

Indian Railways ..... 

xxiii 

Hotels, Dak Bungalows, and Rest- Houses 

XXV 

Fo6d ..... 

xxvi 

Health . . . . 

xxvii 

Sport . . .... 

xxvin 

Hints for Camping 

xxviii 

Books . . . . 

xxix-xxxvii 

(2.) Voyage fro.m England to Gibraltar, Marseilles, 

Malta, Port Said, through the Suez Canal and Red 

Sea to Aden and Bombay .... 

xxxviii-lvi 

(3.) General Information, Statisitcal, Ethnological, 

Histopicat, Arch.^ological, and Material— 


The People of India .... 

l\ii 

The Muhammadans . . . . 

Iviii 

Muhammadan Festivals . 

Ixi 

Muhammadan Rule in India .... 

Ixii 

Some Muhammadan Dates affecting India 

. ixiii 

List of Sovereigns, etc., who reigned at Delhi from 1193 

to 

1S57 A.D. ...... 

Ixv 

The Hindus ...... 

Ixv 

Hindu Gods .... 

Ixvii-lxxi 

The J/ahabharata and Raviayana 

Ixxi, Ixxii 

Hindu Eras. Months and Festivals 

Ixxiii, Ixxiv 

Hindu Rule in India ..... 

. Ixxv 



X 


CONTENTS 


(3.) General Information, etc. — continued , f’Act 

The Brahma Samaj ...... Ixxvi 

Buddhism and the Buddhists . . Ixxvii-lxxxiv 

Jains ........ Ixxxiv 

Buddhist Festivals ...... Ixxxv 

Some Early Hindu and Buddhist Dates .... Ixxxv 

The Sikhs ....... Ixxxvi 

The Ten Gurus of the Sikhs ..... lxxx\iii 

The Mahrattas (also Maratha.s) ..... Ixxxix 

The Parsis ........ xci 

Parsi Months and Festivals ..... xcii 

Architecture ...... xciii-cvii 

The Preservation of Ancient Monuments and Antiquities . cvii-cx 

Indian Art Work ...... cxi-cxix 

Curios ........ cxix 

Irrigation ....... cxx 

Famine ........ cxxii 

The Material Condition of the People of India . . . cxxiii 

Plague ........ cxxv 

Sanitation ....... cxxvi 

The Countess of Duffer in's Fund .... cxxvii 

Lady Hardinge Medical College for Women . . . cxxviii 

The Indian Administration ... . cxxix 

Area and Population of British India and Native States (Census 

of 1911) ....... cxxxii 


Distribution of Population according to Religion (Census of 1911) cxxxiv 


Christian Population — 

Distribution according to Race and Denomination . . cxxxvi 

Territorial Distribution according to Race . . . cxxxvii 

Details of the Working of Certain Imperial Departments — 

Post Office . ..... cxxxix 

Telegraphs ... . . cxxxix 

Railways .... • . cxI 

Commerce and Trade . • * ■ cxii 

Financial Details ...... cxlii 

Native Christians . . ... cxlii 

The Mutiny of 1857 ...... cxlv-clv 

Remarkable Events connecting India ^viih Europe, and m India clv-clxvii 
Glossary of the Principal Native Terms used in this Book cKviii-cKxiii 
List of Abbreviations ...... cKxiii 

Comparative Table of Steamship Services to India . . clxxiv 



LIST OF MAPS AND PLANS 


PAGE 


Agra, and Environs ..... 


. To fact 228 

„ the Fort 



,, Moti Masjid ..... 


236 

„ Taj Mahal ..... 


231 

„ Fatehpur-Sikri ..... 


243 

Ahmadabad ...... 


. Tojaco 1 7 1 

Ajmer, the Arhai-din-ka-jhonpra Mosque 


191 

Allahabad ...... 


. To face 42 

Anuradhapura ...... 


677 

Attock ....... 


335 

Badami, No 3 Cave ..... 


500 

Bangalore ...... 


. To face 528 

Benares ....... 


., 6i 

Bijapur . . . . . ‘ . 


490 

„ Gol Gumbaz ..... 


493 

,, Section of Domes, Jami Masud 


493 

Bombay ...... 


. To face 7 

,, including Malabar Hill and Colaba 


17 

,, and Environs .... 



Buddha, Figures of. Plate 2 . 


Ixviii 

Calcutta 


. To fate 79 

Caste Marks. Plate 2 . . - . 


. Ixviii 

Cawnpore • 


, To face 406 

,, General Wheeler’s Entrenchment, 

1S57 . 

408 

Ceylon ....... 


. To face 650 

Colombo ....... 


,, 654 

Dacca ....... 


435 

Darjeeling ....... 


,, 427 

Delhi 


,, 249 

,, Palace in Fort . 


260 

,, Map of country round 


267 

,, Humayun’s Tomb .... 


272 

Mosque Kutb iil Islam and the Kutb 

Minar . 

276 

EUora, the Mahan wada Dherwara Cave . 


105 

,, the Kailasa Temple 


105 

Girnar Mountain ..... 


. To fat^e 209 

,, Temple of Nemnath 


208 

,, Temple ofTejapala and Vastupala 


210 



Xll 


LIST OF MAPS AND PLANS 


PAGE 


Gwalior, the P'ort . 


. To face 152 

Hindu Gods. Some common forms of. Plates l and 

2 

. Ixvii, Ixviii 

Hyderabad 


507 

India, Average Rainfall, during the wet and hot seasons 

. To face xvii 

,, Average temperature, duiing the hot and cold seasons 

XX 

,, General Map, showdng the Railway Systems . 


In Pocket 

,, Geological Features of . 


To face xxxv 

Vegetable Products ..... 


. „ XXV 

Jaunpur, West half of Jami Masjid . 


00 

fO 

Karachi ......... 


. To face 363 

Karli Cave ..... . . 


464 

Kashmir and N.W. Frontier . . 


. To face 342 

Lahore ...... . . 


„ 307 

,, the Fort ... .... 


314 

Lucknow ......... 


. To fai e 387 

,, the Residency ....... 


„ 394 

Madras ......... 


„ 549 

Madura, Plan of Temple and Tirumala's Choultry 


590, 591 

Mandalay ........ 


. To face 626 

,, the Palace, and the explanation of this Map 


624, 625 

Matheran . . • . 


. To face 461 

Murree . . . . ... 


.. 330 

Mussoorie ......... 


„ 381 

Mutiny, showing distribution of troops on May i, 1857 


cl 

Nagpur ......... 


II5 

Naini Tal ......... 


• •, 383 

North-West Frontier and Kashmir .... 


341 

Ootacamund ........ 


Sb2 

Pagan, Burma, the Ananda Temple .... 


635 

,, ,, the Thatbpyinnyu Temple 


. 636 

Pattadakal Temple ....... 


502 

Poona and Kirkee ....... 


. 468 

Quetta and Baluchistan ...... 


369 

Puri, Jaganath, Temple of .... , 


452 

Railways, see India, General Map in Pocket 

Rangoon ......... 


. To face 615 

Sanchi, Plan of Great Buddhist Tope 


140 

,, Section of Great Buddhist Tope 


140 

Sikhim ......... 


. To face 43 1 

Simla ......... 


290 

Somnath Temple 


214 

,, Veraval and Patan ...... 


213 

Srinagar 


. 7^0 face 344 

Tiruvalur, Bird's-eye View^ of Temple 


5S1 

Vijayanagar (Hampi) 


. To face 516 



LIST OF ROUTES 

[The names of places are printed in black only in those Routes where the 
places themselves are described.] 


ROUTE . PAGE 

1 Bombay and the Environs . i 

2 Bombay to Calcutta by 

Kalyan, Nasik, Manmar, 
Jalgaon (Caves of Ajanta), 
Bhusawal, Ebandwa, 
Itarsi, Jubbulpore, Katni, 
Idanikpur, Allahabad. 
Mughal-sarai (Benares), 
Patna, Mokameh, Lakbi 
sarai, and Asansol, with 
journeys to PachmarM, 
the Marble Bocks. Buddb 
Gaya, and Parasnath . 30 

3 Caves of Ajanta . . • 5b 

4 Benares . .60 

5 Calcutta City and Environs 75 

6 Manmar to Daulatabad, The 

Caves of Ellora, Auranga- 
bad, Jalna, and Secun- 
derabad . .100 

7 Bhusawal to Calcutta (How- 

rah) by Akola, Wardha 
(expedition to Warora and 
Chanda), Nagpur, Kampti, 
Raipur, Bilaspur, and 
Sini, and from Sini to {a) 
Purulla and Asansol. and 
{b) Kharakpur -113 

Khandwa to Ajmer by Mhow, 
Indore, Nimach, Chitor- 
garh, and Nasirabad, with 
expeditions by road to 
Unkarji and Mandu. and 
by rail to Udaipur . .122 

Itarsi Junction to Jhansi, by 
Bhopal, Sanchi, and Bina 
(line to Saugor and to 
Baran and Kotah), and 
from Jhansi to {a) Kalpi 
and Cawnporc; (f) Datia, 
Gwalior, Dholpur, a nd 
Agra, Muttra, and Delhi ; 
ic) Orchha, Barwa-Sagar, 
Banda and Manikpur, 
with excursions to Now- 
gong and Khajraho . 135 
ombay to Delhi by Surat, 
Broach, Miyagam, 
Baroda, and thence 
(i) by broad gauge direct 


ROU'l E PAGE 

to Delhi (865 m.) by 
Ratlam, Nagda, Kotah, 
Bharatpur, anti Muttra. 

(2) to Ahmadabad, and 
thence by metre gauge - 
to Delhi {849 m.) by 
Mehsana, Palanpur, Abu 
Road, Marwar Junction, 
Ajmer, Phalera June non, 
Jaipur, Bandikui J unction. 
Alwar, Rewari, and Gur- 
gaon, with excurbion^ by 
road to Mount Abu, and 
by rail to {a) Dabhoi, 

(e) Luni Junction (branch 
line to Hyderabad, Sind), 
Jodhpur, Bikaner, and 
Phalera Junction . .162 

11 From Ahmadabad through 

Kathiawar by Viramgam, 
Kharaghoda, Wadhwan. 
Bhaunagar, Junagadh. 
Gimar, Somnath, Porban- 
dar, Rajkot, and back to 
Ahmadabad, uith expedi- 
tion to Palitana . 200 

12 {a) Bandikui Junction to 

Bharatpur, Achnera Sta- 
tion, and Agra, {b) Ach- 
nera Station to Muttra. 
Brindabau, and Hathras 
Road, and by load to 
Mahaban, Gobardhan. 
and Dig. and (r) Agra to 
Delhi direct route through 
Muttra , , . .218 

13 Agra and Fatehpur-Sikri . 220 

14 Delhi .... 249 

15 [a] Delhi to Kasauli(i7i m.l. 

and Simla (219 m. ) by 
Panipat, Thanesar, Am- 
bala, and Kalka ' 162 
m.). {b) Delhi to Lahore 
by Ghaziabad Junction, 
Meerut. Sardhana, Sahar- 
anpur, Ambala, Sirhind, 
Ludhiana, Jullundur. Am- 
ritsar, and Lahore Can- 
tonment (349 m. ) . . 283 

16 Lahore to Peshawar by 



XIV 


LIST or ROUTES 


ROUTE PAGE 

Gujranwala, Waziral)ad 
J unction, Gnjrat, Lala 
Musa Junction, Jhelum, 
Eohtas, Manikyala, 
Rawal Pindi, Goira, 
,Attock, and Naushalira, 
with expeditions by rail 
from Wazirabad to Slalkot 
and Jammu, from Lala 
Musa to W. Faujab, from 
Goira to Khushalgarb and 
Kobat, and from Nau- 
shah r a to Hoti Mardan 
and the Malakand . . 322 j 

17 Kashmir and some of the 

routes into that country . 340 

MS {a) Rewari to Hissar, Bha- 
tinda, Ferozepore, Kasur, 
Kaiwind, Lahore. (^) 
Lahore to Karachi by 
Multan, Sher Shah Junc- 
tion, B^awalpur, Sama- 
sata, Rohri, Khairpur, 
Hyderabad, and Kotri, 
with expeditions by rgad 
from Jangshahi to Tatta, 
and from Rohri to Sukkur, 

Ruk Junction, Larkana, 
Sehwan and Kotri by the 
right bank of the Indus . 350 

19 Ruk Junction to Chamau 

on the frontier of Af- 
ghanistan by Shikarpur, 
Jacobabad, Sibi Junction, 
and Quetta, returning by 
the Hamai route . . 367 

20 {a) Saharan pur by the Oudh 

and Rohilkhand Railway 
to Mughal -sarai through 
Lhaksar Junction, Mor- 
adabad, Bareilly Junc- 
tion, Lucknow, and thence 
to Benares by (i) Fyza- 
bad and Jaunpur, and (2) 

Rae Bareli. { 6 ) Lhaksar 
Junction to Hardwar, 

Dehra Hun, and the hill 
stations of Mussoorie 
Landour and Chakrata. 

(c) Bareilly Junction to 
Naini Tal, Almora, and 
Ranikhet .371 

21 Lucknow - 3^5 

22 Delhi to Allahabad by 

Ghaziabad, Aligarh, 


Hathras J unction, Tundla 
Junction, Etawah and 
Cawnpore, and Cawnpore 
to Lucknow . , . 

23 {a) Calcutta by the East India ^ 

Rail w'ay loop line toLakhi- 
sarai and Mokameh, by 
Nalhati Junction Azim- 
ganj, Tinpahar Junction 
(Rajmahal, visit to Malda 
for Gaur and Pandua), 
Bhagalpur and Jamalpur 
for Monghyr. {d) Moka- 
meh to Tirhut. (c) Cal- 
cutta to Plassey and 
Murshidahad by Eastern 
Bengal Rail w'ay and on U> 
Malda. [d] Calcutta by- 
Easter n Bengal Railway to 
Darjeeling by lahurdi, 
SUiguri, and Kurseong , 414 

24 I. Eastern Bengal ; 11. Assam. 

Calcutta to Goalundo, ( I ) 
Narayanganj, Dacca, ( 2 ) 
Chandpur, Chittagong, 
Cachar, Sylhet, Gauhati, 

(3} Cooch Behar, Dhubri, 
Gauhati .... 434 

25 Calcutta to Madras by Bala- 

sore. Cuttack, Bhuban- 
eswar (visit to Udayagiri 
Caves), Puri {visit to 
Black Pagoda), Ganjam, 
Vizianagram, Waltair for 
Vizagapatam, Bezwada, 
and Nellore— Bengal Nag 
pur Rail w’ ay from Howrah 
to Waltair, and Madras 
and S. Mahratta Rail- 
way, N.E. section, from 
Waltair to Madras . , 442 

26 Bombay to Madras by Kalyan 

Junction, the Bhor Ghat, 

Karli, Hotgi junction, 

Poona, Sholapur,Gtabarga, 

Wadi Junction, Raichur, 
Guntakal Junction. Reni- 
gunta Junction, Arkonam 
function, with excursions 
by road to Matheran, the 
Caves of Karli and Bhaja, 
and by rail to Ahmad- 
nagar and Timpati , 46*- 

27 Poona to Goa, by Wathax, 

Satara, Miraj, Belgaum, 



LIST OF ROUTES 


XV 


ROU FE PAGE i 

Londa, the Braganza 
Ghat, and Mormugao. 
with excursion by road to 
Mahahaleshwar, and rail 
to Kolhapur . . 479 

28 Hotgi Junction to Bijapux, 

Gadag, Hubli, Dharwar, ; 

and Londa, with excursion 
to caves and temples of 
Badami .... 490 ; 

29 Wadi Junction to Hyderabad, 

Secunderabad, WarangaL 
and Bezwada, with ex- 
pedition to Eidar . • 5^5 ' 

30 Gadag Junction to Hospet i 

(for Hampi and Vijayana- | 

gar), Bellary, and Gun- 
takal Junction, and from ! 

Guntakal Junction to ia) | 

Kumool via Dronachel- ! 

lam, Nandyal, Guntur , and ' 

Bezwada; and [6] Dbar- ; 

mavaxam and Bangalore 516 ! 

31 Hubli Junction to Harihar, 

Birur ( for Sbimoga and the 
Gersoppa Falls), Banavar | 

t^for expedition to the 
temples at Hallabid and 
Belur, also to the hill of 
Indrabetta, near Sra- 
vana Belgola), Arsikere, 
Tumkur, and Bangalore . 523 
'2 Bangalore to (a) Falls Of the 
Cauvery, Seringapatam, 
and Mysore, and (d) 
Bowringpet (for Kolar 
Gold Fields), Jalarpat 
Junction, Vellore, Arcot, 
Arkonam Junction, Con- 
jeeveram, Chingleput . 530 

33 Madras City and Environs . 547 

34 Madras to Salem, Erode, 

Podanur for the Nilgdris, 
Olavakkot, Shoranur (for 
Cochin), Calicut, Telli- 
cherry, Cannanore, and 
Mangalore, 552 m. by the 
S.W. line of the Madras 
and S. Mahratta Railway j 

and the S. Indian Railw^ay 559 1 

35 Madras by South Indian State j 

Railway to Chingleput, 

Forto Novo, Chidam- 
baram, Kumbakonam, 

Tanj ore, Trichinopoly, 
Biadigal, Madura, Ttnne- 


ROUTE page 

velly, Quilon, and Tuti- 
corin, for Colombo, 
with excursions to 
Gingee, Kodaikanal, 
Kuttalam, Cape Comorin, 
and Trivandrum, and by 
rail to Pondicherry, Nega- 
patam, and Ramesvaram 572 
36 Madras to Mamallapuram, 
or the Seven Pagodas, by 
canal, or by rail and road 599 

BURMA 

Introductory Remarks, Gene- 
ral Description, History, 
Climate, etc. . . . 604 

Rangoon . .615 

1 To Mandalay, Bhamo, and 

the first defile, returning 
to Rangoon vvi Prome , 621 

2 From Rangoon to Moulmein, 

with possible extension 
to Tavoy and Mergui . 639 

3 Rangoon to Kyaukpyu and 

Akyab .... 644 

4 From Rangoon to Bassein 

and back . . 645 

6 Up the Chindwin to Kindat . 646 

CEVLON 

Introductory Remarks, His- 
tory, Colombo. . 650, 654 

1 Colombo to Kandy , . 657 

2 Colombo to Nuwara EHya, 

Bandaraweila, BaduUa, 
and Batticaloa . .663 

3 Colombo to Ratnapura and 

Bandaraweila , . . 66S 

4 Colombo to Ratnapura vtd 

Panadura and Namba- 
pane .... 671 
6 Colombo to Galle. Matara, 
Hambantotta, and Tissa- 
maharama . . ,672 

6 Colombo to Trincomalee by 

Negombo, Puttalam, and 
Anuradhapura ,676 

7 Colombo to Kankesanturai 

via Polgahawela, Kurune- 
gala, Anuradhapura, and 
Jaffna .... 678 

8 Kandy to Jaffna by Anurad- 

hapura .... 679 

9 Kandy to Trincomalee (with 

excursion to Polonnaruwa) 686 
10 Sporting Tours . 6S9 



S, UO 

?93fii.va, « 


'ettaV^ - 1 _ 


INDIA 

e^j ! I 

j showm^tiLe ' 

! AVERAGE RAINFALL u- 

J Ihu ^m^ theffof^ S'e^ason Ofarch toMuw tnclutsive) jh -m 

10 i During the Wet Seo.<st?n. tJxine to October uiehis^ye) ^ 


a^S^^krata i 


\ Sftf^har o, 
'-‘ud^pur ^ 




liu \ ^20 

y^dr^ X)ar^^trn^\ ^ /M "ntiOur 


i>da.>r ■ 
Ahnr>«ii^b j J 

' \ ,j^ KnandJa 

y b Surat -< 


/illahaad. ^'Y-'' 

yy:£:.:-S^y 




■ri.'*l' X.i/i. 


^fachrudJ+i *'ber Jr; 

Seoni’ ) c ,, 


J tVaie^aon ^Afnra<p ^ ^ 

^MBAy/ I *r.di,r„ V 

//’*\ Ahmed'ia^au’ \ ! 

y pboV 3, da, J { ft 

J i N ^holapur ^_^ - , ^ «^^anamco4tJa>i t ^ 

‘?aindgir,V Gulbar^a HyderaJjad ''"' ^ 

\f v'"4u^p!J<' I C'*'Y^ Cocanada 

— , — _ -.^J f \ X^^y^ur Masuligatar"''^ 

' goA rOBeX?:^- Kbrnool ' y^y 

^'^uddapah ^Nellor« 

Mangaicrel | ’Haic.sYN. \ | J MADRAS 

„Sai^/ /^Jo^dalobA 

cl\ai^S 'rr!cbLjK4i3 

\\ ^Kodaika^L 
uctH(nV\ =Ma<Uira. ! 


Midnapor. 1 "^^,* 4 ^'' 


Cckdibasa W . 

\ Jui 

j ^^alasoi'e 



Wor.ywa I 

S iafy I 

J*«ni4y‘ j 

—4 

f j 


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^ " 4^[5tan\onu^ 


Andanian^k 




/t, J 


to ^^onSlair 


u.dn<T>-X'^P^ YTrn 


INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION 


I GEXKRAL HINTS 


English L\Nr.u.\(;K 

A TRIP to India is no long^er a formidable journey, or one that 
requires very bpecial preparatHin. Among' the difficulties which 
have disappeared of late years is that of the language. English is 
now spoken at all hotels and railway stations, and in all post and 
telegraph offices ; and the leading shops in all large places have 
gooti articles for ordinary requirements, with attendants who speak 
English. 'fheNaine facilities iisuaUv exist in those native shops for 
the sale of works of Indian art and manufacture which travellers are 
likely to visit ; and local guides with a knowledge of English, more 
or less imperfect, are available at all important centres. Visitors will 
also find that a great many of the educated Indians wEom they will 
meet are able to hold simple conversations in English, and that many 
speak the language exceedingly well : while the courteous request 
of a gentleman is sure to meet with a willing response. 

Skasox for Visit to India 

The season for a pleasant visit to the plains of India lies betw'een 
15th November and the end of March. In the Panjab these dates 
can be slightly extended , but in October and April the heat may be 
lound trving in the Red Sea and at the ports of arrival and departure. 
Hp to 15th October and after loth April the weather at the ports may 
be almost as trying as any in the year, much more so than in July, 
August, and September, when constant rain cools the atmosphere. 
Owing to the large number^ of officers of the Indian Service who 
return to India in the autumn, and of annual visitors to the country 
for “the cold season,' the best accommodation on the larger and 
faster steamers, and especially on the P. tN O. boats, is usually booked 
months ahead — outwards betw’een 15th October and ist December, 
and homewards for March and April : and this fact must be borne in 
mind by intending tra\ellers to India. For further hints regarding 
the voyage, see p. xxxviii. It may he added here that a good and 
strong deck chair is essential to comfort on board ship. The long 
cane chairs are the most comfortable, but imwfieldy. The folding 
canvas chair is more portable. Second-hand deck chairs are generally 
obtainable, cheap, at the port of embarkation. 


XVll 



XVUl 


EXPENSES 


India 


Expenses 

The rates of fare charged by the principal lines of steamers to 
India are exceedingly high — about ^3 per day, but owing to the 
depreciation of the rupee the traveller will find India a fairly cheap 
country, the ordinary hotel charges outside the Presidency towns, 
and apart from special occasions, being 6 to 8 rupees ^ (8s. to i is.) a 
day for board and lodging, with usually a small additional charge for 
a hot bath. It is customary also to give a small gratuity to the 
w'ater-carner {bhistt) and the sweeper. As walking in the heat of the 
day is better avoided even in the cold weather, carriages have to 
be used generally in order to visit the objects of interest. The 
charge for a day varies from 5 to 7 rupees. Taxi-cabs and motors 
can now be hired at most of the principal places. All hotel and 
carriage charges tend to rise slowly. At private houses it is usual 
to give a present to the head servant on behalf of all the attendants. 
This need not exceed 5 rupees for a visit of a week or ten days. 
The railway charges are moderate, being usually annas^ 
or ijd. per mile for ist class, half that sum for 2nd class, and less 
for journeys over 300 miles. As elsewhere in the world, the travelk ' 
mil have to supply himself constantly with a sufficiency of small 
diange — 2, 4, and 8 anna pieces. 


Motoring 


The use of motor-cars is becoming very general in India, and the 
roads in all large places and the main roads connecting these will 
ordinarily be found good. A small book on motoring in India by 
Watney & Lloyd has been published in England, and the Local 
Governments in India have published, or are publishing, Motor 
Route-books. The Motorists' Guide (India), by M. J. Giles, Head 
Police Office, Bombay, published at Bombay by “ The Times Press,'’ 
should be in the hand of every motorist in India. It contains the 
Laws and Rules on the subject of motoring, much excellent advice 
to motorists and, inter alia^ some details of the principal routes, 
viz., Bombay to Delhi, Calcutta to Delhi, Bombay to Madras, 
Poona to Mahabaleshwar, Mahabaleshwar to Bombay. Expeditions 
to places of interest, which previously could only be made by 
country conveyances, can now in many cases be carried out 
easily and rapidly in motors, though at greater cost. It may 
sometimes be convenient to make tours, or go from one large place 


I The value of the rupee is practically fixed at rs. 4d by Go;ernnient legislation. 
English sovereigns are accepted at all Government offices, at hotels, and railway 
stations, at an exchange value of Rs.15 lor a sovereign. 



Tntrod. 


MOTORING 


XIX 


to another, by motor rather than by railway or otherwise. The 
location of garages and petrol stores should therefore be noted 
carefully. Cars must be crated for shipment : the cost is about 
/4 to according to size of car. Tyres shoul-d be removed, and 
all grease and oil removed from the engine and other parts as far 
as possible before packing. The freight costs from to £30, 
according to size of car. 

Bombay. — For landing and getting ready foi the road, Rs.150 
',^10), say, should be allowed. The import duty is 5 per cent. 
ad valorem. 

Bombay is the best place to land for a tour through Northern 
India, as the roads are good, and arrangements for petrol, etc., are 
easily made. The Bombay Motor Car Company will arrange to land 
and prepare cars so that all may be ready when the owner arrives. 
The Company should be addressed well in advance, and given 
the particulars of the proposed tour, and they will make all arrange- 
ments for supplies of petrol, etc., etc., en route. 

Calcutta. — Landing, etc., and duty as above. The Russa 
Engineering Works, Ltd., 4 Fairlie Place, will land cars as above 
and make all the necessary arrangements. Particulars as to roads 
nd suitable tours can be obtained from the Secretary, Automobdc 
Association of Bengal, 1 Park Street. Maps of Bengal, showing 
usable roads, can also be obtained from him. Petrol is avail- 
able in the Presidency towns at R. i per gallon and at all the 
principal towns up country at prices ranging from R. 1.8 to Rs.z.S, 
according to distance from nearest sea-port. 

The main roads are, as a rule, excellent from December to March, 
in many places rivers are unbridged, but are passable during the 
above months by fords and in some cases ferries. A car with a 
good clearance is therefore a desideratum. 

Tyres and repairs. — The above can always be obtained from 
either of the firms mentioned above and at most of the larger 
cities in Northern India, but in view of the great distances it 
is very advisable to be well provided with spare tyres on the car. 

It is possible nowadays to motor from Bombay to Calcutta by 
road — a distance of some 1700 to 1800 miles, and the tour can 
be lengthened or shortened indefinitely to suit time available. A 
car has travelled (some nine or ten years ago) between these 
two towns in four and a half days, but a month or more can be 
spent most enjoyably in exploring the wonderful cities of Northern 
India. 

If time permits, the journey from Delhi via Lahore to Rawalpindi, 
and from thence into Kashmir, is to be recommended, but the latter 
portion of the road into Kashmir is not (ordinarily) open much before 



XX cirn'H[X(, htdia 

March or April, when the heat in the plains is \ery great. It is 
therefore difficult to combine the whole tour in one season. 

Sola Topis and smoked glasses are essential even m the cold 
weather. 

The same hints regarding bedding, supplies, and native seivan , 
apply, of course, to motor-travelling as to travelling generally in India 

CL01 HINO 

Xot very long ago it was thought essential to have a special oiitrit 
prepared for a journey to India. This is scarcely the case now. 

For the voyage a few warm clothes for the Northern part am 
thin clothes for the Red Sea and Arabian Sea are required : otherwise 
ordinary English summer clothing w'lll suffice. As regards the lighter 
clothes, a man will find it convenient to have a \ery thin suit of tweed 
or grey flannel for day, and a thin dress jacket for dinner. 

A lady cannot do better than pro\ide herself with thin skills of 
tussore silk or some such material, and thin silk or other blouses 
Shoes with india-rubber soles are the best for the deck 

As the amount of luggage which can be taken into the travellei s 
cabin is necessarily limited, a careful arrangement beforehand of 
articles needed for different parts of the voyage is of (,onsiderablc 
importance for comfort. The cabin luggage must contain sufficient 
underlinen and linen for the whole \oyage. A bag, with a lock, for 
soiled linen should not be omitted, ddie airangeinents for obtaining 
luggage from the hold on the voyage have been greatly improved 
so that on the better lines the heavy luggage can be obtained any 
day, practically whenever required : it is, therefore, not necessary 
to have as much cabin luggage as formerly. 

For a winter tour in the plains of North and Central India 
generally, and in Upper Burma, a traveller requires such clothing 
as he would wear in the late spring or autumn in England, but in 
addition he must take warm winter wraps. A man should have 
a light overcoat, in which he can ride, and a warm long ulster for 
night travelling or the early morning. A lady, besides a warm 
jacket and shawl, should have a loose, warm cloak to wear in long 
drives before the sun rises or after it sets, or to sleep in on railway 
journeys if it is very cold, \bsitors to India must remember that 
while the mid-day is alw'ays warm, sometimes very hot, the evening 
dews may be so heavy as to absolutely luet the outer garment. Also, 
the cold of the nights and mornings is often very sharp, so that tlv . 
secret of dressing is to begin the day in things that can be thrown 
off as the heat increases, and can be resumed as the cold returns. In 
some places in North India in the winter months the temperature 



■Chitrai-^ 


^B«haM3r>a Mu I 


Sn n i^ar 

/ I75; 


~~~ ^/^hu shab^^*******^ 

Cbajoan ' Jsmai) Lab^ST 

Prshmo cj: l "ont^om^ry, tudbiana 

Quetta- - MooKan _ ! 


I B.kaner 


tudbianaNw 5»mia i 
lAfTibSa oCbaJv^ata , 

Patiaia ^\oDehra3ii’q 
Roti-keeV 

; Meerut 

\ 1 dIlHI 

-J Ba retliy 


IJTDIA 

* ' showing llie \ 

AVERAGE TEMPERATURE 

Jhxriii^ i heSot S eason. (Mir^toMiy vwlustye) — 

^ Cold SeasorvOdoyember toFebracuy inclusive) ', 


[ l^y'derabad f^chpadra. 


i . ^mbhy ^ 

j JodhpurV^rner^^P^f 


Khaimandu 7^* \ Gan|tak 


bibsajar \ 


' 'Bahrajch 


AhmadabpJ 


VerawaH 


,P Muzaflarpur »D3jit!aBi^>^pa‘i^" '-Dbubn lshiUon| 

^ ^KoWi O Allahabad* , “Maioa^N. - Myrneniigh ’Silchar 

f °Nee^h Sltra • 

~\r~ ^ j ^tfor i . .Sa^ura^Knilrnagar^ 

X , iLh.rr ijubbolpez. 

\^do^^shan|ab«d I __ ^ Midnapr/i "^AkCUm^N^ \rh\tea4ong 

^ ^ ^ractjma^i , Cha.ba»a /^ijlrfru / 

Khand^Ja- 1 Sa,T,bal5gr k / 

'S-*t i "'*”'^‘'*,N^pur .Ra,pu- i ^Bal«or. t\ ( 

_ Mojpgaonl^ ^k-li ■Ammot;^ | J } \ ftkVab V^ 

Buldana / 1 , / ! 5 




^V^Aurwga^ ^ d ia^ 

Abnfadna^ar j 

Po"na / Ekrdar 

/Sroiapu'' ® hanamcondar 


\ SmLu' 


Gulbarga Hydereibad 

CocaWda 

Rajchurwoft Maaiilipatannr 


^^andai^ \ 

T jaWsy* 

Minbu 

1 ^^/ 8 S 

L Tha^yHi^ / 


*Q^^ 5 \^lAoulme»p 



\ *HiSsafl^ \ , ^dWADR 

. J^Wa ' M yso^ L! 

\ ~7)o'(JaD«t±a y^balem fctidda];!'** 

CzdtcutV I ’’Osy^mund L 
Col^mbstt^ Trichinopoij! 

'\ / Kodaikaral ^Negapatai 


^orl Blair 


Parnbar^ 


^Tnncomalee 



Infrod, CLOTHING xxi 

will fall between 40 to 50^ within the two hours on either side of sunset, 
and the risks of serious chills in consequence of such sudden changes 
are very great, if due care is not taken to meet them. It has often 
been said that more illness is contracted from chills in India than 
from the heat. Real winter clothing will be necessary if it is intended 
to visit any hill-station. Flannel or woollen underclothing and 
sleeping garments, and a flannel ‘"kamarband” ('a belt of flannel 
8 in. to 12 in. wide, worn round the waist), are strongly recommended 
for wear at all times. 

Throughout the South ^ of the peninsula, and at times even in 
Bombay and Calcutta, much thinner clothing is required. Cool linen 
suits for men, and very thin dresses for ladies, as also khaki riding- 
and shooting-suits, can be got cheaper and better in India than in 
England, and a native tailor will make a very satisfactory suit from 
an English pattern. 

Linen and underclothing for at least three weeks should be taken 
— with less the traveller may be inconvenienced on arrival, or even 
detained until his board -ship clothes are washed. The Indian 
washermen, though not as bad as they used to be, still destroy things 
rather rapidly. A lady will find a light dust-cloak a great con- 
venience for railway travelling. 

The hospitality of India involves a considerable amount of dining 
out, and therefore a lady, unless she intends to eschew society, should 
be provided with several evening dresses. If it is intended to join 
friends in camp, or make any long expeditions by road, ridii^- 
breeches and gaiters for men, and riding-habits for ladies, should 
not be forgotten. 

A good sun-hat is an essential. A shape adopted by Lord 
Curzon has become common. Some years ago the Tarai hai (two 
soft felt hats fitting one over the other) was often worn — with a 
pagri tied round it. It is a picturesque head-dress, but it has fallen 
into disuse. It will, however, generally suffice for the cool months, 
but even in them the mid-day sun in India is dangerous, and it is 
therefore advisable to wear a cork or felt helmet, which is lighter and 
better ventilated, and affords more protection from the sun than the 
Tarai hat^ and is indispensable in real hot weather. A sun-hat 
should have a brim which will protect the temples and back of the 
neck, at top of the spine, and is well ventilated all round. Many 
London hatters have a large choice of sun-hats and helmets, for ladies 
as well as men ; and travellers should be careful to wear such head 
protection whenever they are exposed to the sun during the voyage. 
A white cover (without a frill) to the umbrella is also desirable, 

1 This may be taken as applying lo all places South ol Hyderabad, m the 
Deccan, excluding the higher plateau of Mysore. 



X\ll 


BEDDING 


Indiil 


especially for a lady ; a straw or other light hat will be found 
convenient for the cool hours of the morning and evening. Much 
larger hats, which can be best obtained in India, should be worn 
for shooting expeditions extending over the whole day. 

A traveller in Ceylon will seldom require any but the lightest of 
clothing, except in the mountains, where the temperature becomes 
proportionately cooler as he ascends. At Kandy a light overcoat, 
and at Nuwara Eliya warm wraps and underclothing are 
necessary. 

For further hints, Dr Harford’s Hints on Outfit in Tropical 
Countries (Royal Geographical Society) may be consulted. 

Bedding 

Every traveller who contemplates a tour must, on arrival in India, 
provide himself with some bedding, to be taken with him everywhere, 
even when on a visit to friends ; it should always be with him 
in the railway carriage if he is going to spend a night in the 
train. Except at the best hotels, there is either no bedding or there 
is the chance of its being dirty. The minimum equipment is a pillow 
and two cotton-wadded quilts {i'‘azais\ one to sleep on, and one, which 
should be larger, as a coverlet ; or a good 7'azai and a couple of warm 
blankets, or, still better, an eider-down. The ready-made 7'azais are 
usually thin, but they can be got to order, of any thickness. To 
tl^ese should be added a pillow-case, cheap calico sheets, and a light 
blanket. A canvas or waterproof cover to wrap the bedding in must 
not be omitted, or the first time it is carried any distance by a coolie 
or taken into camp it may be dirtied. A waterproof sheet is a useful 
addition to the bedding, but cannot be called an absolute necessity 
for an ordinary tour. Without such a modest supply of covering as 
is here indicated a traveller may at any time have to spend a night 
in very severe cold, especially if travelling by railway, as the windows 
and doors of the carriages seldom fit well enough to keep this out. 
Two or three towels, for use on railway journeys, should also be added 
to the above outfit. 


Travelling Servants 

A native travelling servant who can speak English is high! ■ 
desirable, but should not be engaged without a good personal 
character or the recommendation of a trustworthy Agent. Such a 
servant is almost necessary to wait on his master at hotels, where, 
without him, he would be but poorly served ; and will be found very 
useful in a hundred different ways when travelling by rail or otherwise, 
and as an interpreter when dealing with natives. Having ascertained 



bttt'od. 


I-XDIAN RAILWAYS xxiii 

beforehand, from his Agents or friends, the fair wages which such a 
servant ought to be paid .these vary from Rs.25 to Rs.35 per mensem), 
the master should come to a definite arrangement with him before 
engaging him ; and it is usually advisable to have an agreement with 
him in writing. If the servant proves satisfactory, it is the custom 
to make him a present on parting with him. If the traveller has 
friends “up country,” it may be well to write beforehand and ask 
them to engage a servant, and send him to meet his master at the 
port of arrival. “ Up-country” servants are often cheaper and more 
trustworthy than those to be met with on the coast, but their 
knowledge of English is not generally very good. Ladies may travel 
with an accredited man-servant without hesitation, and will find him 
far more useful than an dydh in almost all respects. The services of 
a good dydh are more difficult to secure than those of a bearer servant, 
and naturally are more expensive. The best ayahs with a knowledge 
of English come from Madras. During the first two or three days of 
hts service it should be carefully explained to the travelling servant 
exactly what he is expected to do, and it will usually be found that 
he will thereafter do this satisfactorily. It may be added that such 
servants should be quietly kept in their proper places. 


Indian Railways 

Tlie Indian A.fiC. Ciiiide^ the Indian Raihvay Travellers Guide ^ 
and Newman’s Indian Bradshaw^ with maps, railway routes in India, 
and general information of steamer routes, are the best. Even if 
Agents are consulted for routes and arrangements for journeys, it will 
be desirable to obtain a Railway (luide-book : as the times of trains 
are liable to alteration, those given in the Handbook cannot be 
guaranteed as permanently correct. For railway purposes the hours 
are counted from midnight up to 24, as in Italy : thus 20.12 is 
8. 12 P.M., and so on. Railway time throughout India is now* Standard 
time, which is 5| hours in advance of Greenwich time. 

The difference with regard to the local times in India is as 
follows — 


Standard time in advance of Madras i min. 
,, ., Bombay 39 ,, 

,, ,, Allahabad 2 ,, 

,, ,, Delhi 22 ,, 

,, ,, Karachi 61 ,, 

,, ,, Lahore 37 ,, 

,, behind Calcutta 24 „ 

„ ,, Chittagong 37 ,, 



XXIV 


RAILWAY TRAVEL!, INO 




Standard time in Burma is 6 k hours in advance of Greenwich, or 
5 minutes in advance of Rangoon time. 

At many of the larger towns there are two stations or more. 
Where there are both the traveller should, as a rule, book, not to the 
“ City,” but to the ‘‘ Cantonment ” station ; but before booking he should 
note which station is mentioned m the Handbook. The Railway 
Companies in India are doing much for the comfort of ist and 2nd 
class travelers, but might do still more — by supplying electric fans 
in the carriages, and seeing more closely to the management of the 
refreshment rooms. Electric fans can, by previous arrangement, 
be obtained in most railway carriages. In the ist and 2nd class 
compartments the seats, which are unusually deep, are so arranged 
as to form couches at night, but bedding and pillows are not furnished. 
Each compartment is provided with a lavatory. At all terminal 
stations, and at various large roadside stations, berths in the carriages 
can be booked beforehand. It wull generally be found convenient to 
send a servant ahead to the station wdth the luggage, so that he may 
book it ; if tickets have not been taken beforehand, a slip w'ith the 
destination of the traveller wu'itten on it should be given to the servant 
to obviate mistakes. The payment of coolies (porters—usually 2 to 4 
annas) is best left to a servant : he may cheat the coolies to some 
extent, but the traveller whll be saved much annoyance and some 
expense. 

There are refreshment rooms at frequent intervals, and some of 
them are w^ell managed and supplied ; travellers intending to make 
use of them should signify their intention to the guard of the tram 
beforehand, and he will telegraph (free of charge) to the station 
indicated ; in Madras tickets for meals are purchased at the same 
time as the railway ticket. Restaurant cars now run on most of the 
express mail trains. The failure of the manager of any refreshment 
room to provide a proper meal or food, when ordered beforehand, 
should nev'er be overlooked, but should be invariably reported to the 
Traffic Superintendent of the line. In extreme cases payment of the 
full price demanded for the meal should be refused. 

The Station-masters are particularly civil and obliging, and will, 
where possible, arrange for ponies, conveyances, or accommodation 
at out-of-the-w^ay stations, if notice is given them beforehand ; they 
will also receive letters addressed to their care, which is often a 
convenience to travellers. For some obscure reason the guards of 
trains render none of the services expected of them in Europe, 
and are generally conspicuous by their absence in the larg 
stations. 

Travellers must be careful to see that their heavy luggage i^- 
secured by locks and is booked to proceed by the same route ai 




\HO\fiK— VEGETABLE PRODUCTS 



,Iolin Mih'I'hv Alb<‘ni/nl<' 







Hi t'rf I ^ \NT' KF-T-HOr>E^ 


\\\ 


tnrm-^e!ves : a!! -^niall artxle 5 in hit LarnaKCs :?huuld be caretulK 
[>'.)■ td out of the rcarii oi p(ts3ib]p tlve\es in the night, especially 
t the window > are kept open on account of the heat At even 
'station w h’.('h the ortiinary traveller is likely to visit conveyances of 
'■cue -ort awa't the arrival of the trains When tra\ellers lea\e their 
‘ arnages in order to ;4o for ineaU to the refreshment rooms, a servant 
or a "t.ttnm c(u)Iie >]iou]d be placetl forinalh in charge of the traveller’s 
proprrty F^'r a ^maii ^um- an anna or two— the coolie can be 
tru<tt’d to guard it 

n 's a matter for regiet that 3rd clas:= pas*sengers are not always 
' on- delate]) treated by liie iaiKva\ siaff. Tiavellers m India wall 
rerniPT a public serv.ce b\ bringing instances of such treatment to 
no: ('e The caunfoit of '-uch passengers has been too much over- 
h>«ikfd in the but improvements are being effected. 

Hoii-L'-, Dak IItnu and Ktsi- H ouses 

< Hitside tht' Frcsidency towns, and a few' exceptfonal places—such 
U" l.ucknou, Delin. anti Fangali^ie. there are hardly any hotels in 
India really up to the Hinopean stand ird t)f excellence At all the 
‘ hiet places fairlv large airv rooms will be found in the hotels, but 
the 

traveller will hardlv be well waited upon unless he brings a 
^er\ant w uh him. As they are often crowded in the tourist season, 
he should give notice beforehand of his intentled arrival. Some of 
the European Clubs admit recommended visitors as honorary 
metnberb, and a CIuIj which has sleeping accommodation is generally 
more comfortable than a hotel ; but it is seldom that such accom- 
modation is available in the cold weather, unless it is arranged for by 
n friend beforehand. AH property should be kept carefully locked in 
hotels, as there are usually many strange servants in them, and the 
verandas of most are frequented by hawkers and other outsiders. 

.'Vt the Dak bungalows (Travellers* Rest-Houses established by 
Dov'ernment in all important places) the keeper m charge (commonly 
, called the klubisamn) will provide meals, but it is usually well to give 
notice of an intended arrival. The bediooins in these bungalows 
have an adjoining- bath-room and are usually sufficiently, if roughly, 
provided with fuiniture and lights. Thev cannot be retained before- 
hand the first comer having the preference : and after occupying a 
room for twenty-four hours the traveller must give place, if required. 

I to the next comer. In S. India the name Travellers' Rest-House is 
generally u-cd. There is a fixed fee for the occupation of the rooms, 
f and usually tor each of the simple meals to be supplied. In some 
- cases the k/umsthtia has been in the service of English officers, and 
will prov^e to be a sufficientlv good cook. In small and out-of-the-way 



XXVI 


FOOD 


Ttidia 


places it is best to confine his efforts to a curry or pilati, which 
he is sure to prepare well ; and when visiting such places a traveller 
will do w'ell to take with him small supplies— such as tinned soup? 
and vegetables, tea and sugar, biscuits and the like, and his owir 
whisky or wine. 

There are many places well worth visiting, though somewhat oft 
the beaten track — such as Ajanta (Fardapur), Vijayanagar (Kamala- 
pur), and Mandu — where some kind of Rest-House is available, but 
no arrangements have been made for supplying food, and in other 
places, e.g ^ Badami, Mortakka, Chaul, etc., only a Public Works, or 
Engineer’s, or Collector’s bungalow is available to those who obtain 
special permission beforehand (it is not always obtainable), and in 
any case servants and food have to be taken. Details are given in 
the body of the text. At some railway stations sleeping-rooms for 
travellers are provided, or waiting-rooms can be utilised in emergent 
cases, though the Railway Companies warn the public against using 
them as Dak Bur^alows. Before organising trips to less-frequented 
localities, inquiries should be made, and the .traveller should be pro- 
vided against emergencies. In villages it is generally possible to 
obtain such supplies as eggs, fowls, milk, and the local grain, through 
the station-master or village-headman, but the people will not lend 
their drinking or other vessels to Europeans. Village milk or water 
should NEVER be drunk uniil it has been thoroughly boiled. Higher 
fees might be reasonably charged by Government for accommodation 
specially provided by Government at places seldom visited by 
travellers. 

The Rest-House of Ceylon is more like a hotel than the Dak 
Bungalow in India, in that it is more frequently furnished with 
bedding and linen, and food is generally provided. 


Food 

As a rule the food supplied in hotels and railway refreshment 
rooms in India is not very good. Outside the really large places and 
cantonments the meat, with exception of bullock hump, is often lean 
and tough, the fowls are skinny, and the eggs ridiculously small. The 
sea fish at the sea-ports is excellent, and the river fish supplied at, 
table elsewhere is generally fresh ; but it does not always agree 
with persons new to the country, and not even in the case of the 
tnahsir M always commend itself as palatable to' them. Game 
is generally abundant at private tables in the cold weather— quail 
(early and late in the season), snipe, teal, duck, partridge, and sand- 
grouse ; but hotel-keepers too often neglect to include this in th< ir 



ifrod. 


HEALTH 


xxvii 


v?/A Where there is a ;^ood supply of fruit in the market, its 
per provision at the hotel table should be insisted upon. Bread 
lirly good, but this cannot be said of the butter, and milk is not 
from danger. It is a good precaution always to have the milk 
ded. even though the boiling affects its taste. Aerated water should 
3 drunk in preference to plain water, even in private houses ; and the 
'ater in hotels and refreshment rooms should be absolutely avoided. 
^ the traveller leaves the beaten track, he should have a tiffin 
icheon) basket, containing knives, forks, and other simple fittings 
cl supplies ; and, as a matter of fact, whenever any long journey is 
iertaken, it is well to be always provided with such a basket of 
ted meats, soups or bovril, biscuits, jam, tea and sugar, some 
dt, and soda-water, which is good and cheap in India (to be 
tamed only from proper manufacturers, not from itinerant vendors 
’ railway stations) as this reduces to a minimum the inconvenience 
detention by accident or of failure to obtain an eatable meal at a 
, ilway refreshment room. Added to the above, an Etna, or spirit- 
mp, will be found a great convenience. Some simple apparatus 
or making tea should be taken whenever possible, including 
•iilway journeys, with milk, boiled, or bottled, from some safe source 
^f supply. Ice in an ice-box, with sawdust, should be taken, especially 
n the hot weather. On receipt of a postcard, Messrs Balmer Lawrie 
d: Co., in Calcutta, Agents for the Ice Company, will deliver such an 
ce-box at any station. 

Health 

It Is of great importance, as intimated above, to avoid chills in the 
tst, and damp underclothing should always be changed directly after 
■le body has been overheated. The necessity of using warm cloth- 
until the morning has ceased to be cold, and after the sun has 
set, or even slightly before the sun sets, has been insisted on above. 
Excessive bodily exertion and consequent fatigue should be avoided 
by ail who are no longer young, and such persons, if unacquainted 
the conditions of sub-tropical life, vvill do well to consult some 
JTiedical man experienced in them before undertaking a tour in 
bulia. Slight indisposition must not be trifled with in India, even 
though it would be thought nothing of elsewhere ; immediate 
avoidance of all fatigue is necessary upon the occurrence of any 
^^disposition, and only light food should be taken until it passes 
‘tway. In cases of fever, or of any ailment with the treatment of 
which the traveller is not practically acquainted, no time should 
lost in seeking the services of a qualified medical man. Such 
• officer will be found in the Civil Surgeon of all places of any 
^ ’ private practitioners are usually to be found only in the 



xxviii SPORT — HINTS FOR CAMPING IndS 

Presidency towns. The ordinary fee for attendance is Rs.i6, <j 
a guinea, but Rs.io per visit are usually charged where a numhe 
of visits are made. 

Sport 

No attempt can be made here to ^ive definite advice to spoil 
men, but sporting localities have been incidentally indicated in thv 
routes. A number of useful books on sport in India will be found 
among the publications of Messrs Thacker, Spink & Co., and i*' 
the list given under the heading Sport ” on p. xxxvi. Th 
equipment for these pursuits varies from day to day, and each mai 
must best know his own wants. Firearms are subject to a heav^- 
duty when brought into the country, see p. 6. Large-game shootini 
is expensive and takes time: it should not be attempted excep’’ 
in company with a really good shikari and with the assistance o. 
persons of local authority, as otherwise it would probably involve 
a mere waste of time and useless trial of patience. 

Small-game shooting — i.e.^ wild fowl, hare, etc., with an occasional 
shot at an antelope — is an easier matter, and will afford excellent 
sport It can be got from November till February, often at verv 
small cost, by spending a night or two at some wayside railway 
station or near some remote spot. In this case also the advice of 
the ‘‘man who knows’’ will be of the greatest assistance. Near 
cantonments the ground is always too much shot over to afford good 
sport. 

Hints for Camping 

Travellers who leave the beaten track with the intention of shoot- 
ing, or for the purpose of visiting remote or ruined cities, should 
take a small tent or two with them. Transport in the shape of 
camels, carts, baggage-ponies, or bearers, can be got in any station, 
and in the larger places riding-ponies and light native carts, or 
perhaps even European traps for driving, can be obtained. Those 
who intend to go into camp (as the Anglo-Indian term runs) will 
probably be experienced in organising such expeditions, or will have 
friends who will make arrangements for them, and, in any case, a 
courteous request for assistance made by calling upon the principal 
English or Indian officer of the place is sure to meet with courteous 
consideration ; but perhaps the following suggestions of requirements 
may prove of some use in the case of a solitary traveller who does not 
mind a certain amount of roughing. In Kashmir camp equipment 
as below can be hired from the Agents there — elsewhere it wcijtld 
have to be purchased, and would cost probably about Rs 200 t< 
Rs.250. 



hj/rcti 


BOOKS 


XXIX 


lent s^Cabul tent, 8o lb. complete) for self, and, if the weather 

cold or likely to be wet, a pal tent for servants ; a few iron tent 
pei^s wooden ones for soft ground) ; and a mallet. Camp-bed with 
siae poles of one piece, table, chairs, and carpet. India-rubber flat 
oath, and a board to stand on, or tubbing can be done by pouring 
native pots of water over the head (fresh native pots can be obtained 
at any village), a screen {kandt) to use as a bath-room, a washing- 
ba.'sin ichilamchi) and stand, hooks to strap on tent-pole for hanging 
clothes on, etc. ; aluminium cooking -pots, and fry-pan, an iron dish 
or two, a few knives, forks, and spoons, aluminium plates, cups, and 
?aucers, and mustard, pepper, and salt pots. Servants required in 
camp are — a man or boy to wait, a cook, a water - carrier {bhisti\ 
and grooms for horses. All food for the traveller, except milk and 
Irebh meat, must be taken with him. Food for servants, milk, and 
meat 'goat or sheep or chickens), can be got in any but the poorest 
Villages. For bedding and clothes take blankets, sheets (luxury), 
an Indian shooting-suit, rough boots and gaiters, a light flannel 
suit or two, a large sun-hat for shooting in, and a second sun- 
bat and a cap for wear in the camp. A mosquito-net and poles for 
It will be needed if mosquitoes are likely to give trouble at 
night. 

If white ants are about, boxes and carpets should be shifted 
every morning. The ravages these and other insects can commit 
are rapid and extensive. Persons not accustomed to camping 
nut should always have straw put on the ground under the tent 
carpet. 

For arms — the plainer the better— i central fire U.B. hammer 
1 2-bore gun, i C.F.D.B. express rifle, 500 bore. Fmpty 12-bore 
cartridges, Curtis & Harvey’s No. 6 powder, and shot of all kinds 
can be purchased in any ordinary station. 

For medicine, plenty of quinine in 3- or 5-grain “ tabloids” or pills 
(to be taken before or after food whenever a chill or feverishness is 
felt), a bottle or two of chlorodyne, and two boxes of Cockle’s pills. If 
not needed by the traveller, the pills may be useful to give to servants 
or villagers. 

Books 

The most accurate information on all subjects connected 
with India, up to 1907, is to be found in the first four volumes 
of the Imperial Gazetteer of India, 1907 — Descriptive, Historical, 
Economic, and Administrative — each of which can be bought 
separately for 6s. A full bibliography will be found under each 
section in these volumes. 



XXX 


BOOKS 


India 


Some books are specially mentioned here (classified) : — 

GENERAL 


B. H. Baden - Powell, (i) Land 
Revenue and Tenure m British 
India. (2) The Indian Village ' 
Community. ; 

J. Bartholomew, A Literary , 
and Historical Atlas of ; 
Asia. 

General Sir G. Chesney, Indian 
Polity, I 

H. Compton, India^t Life in 
Town and Country. 

Eiwin, Rev. E. F., India and the ' 
Indians. 

J. Finnemore, Homes in Afany 
Lands hidia. 

Hon. J. Fortescue, Narrative of 
the Visit to India of Their \ 
Majesties. 

Lov’^at Fraser, India under 
Curzon and After. 

Sir J. Bampfyide Fuller, (i) 
Studies of Indian Life and 
Sentiment. (?) The Empire of ' 
India. 

The Historical Record oj the 
Imperial Visit to India, rpii. 

Sir T. W. Holderness, Peoples 
and Problems of India. 

Sir T. H. Holdich, India 
(“ Regions of the World ’’ 
series). 

E. W. Hopkins, India : Old aiid 
New. 


Sir \V. W. Hunter, The India of 
the Queen. 

Sidney Low, A Vision of India. 

Mortimer Menpes and Flora 
A. Steel, India. 

H. P. Mody, The Political Future 
of India. 

Sir T. Morison, {i) The Eco- 
nomic Transition in India. 
(2) Imperial India. (3) Indian 
Industrial Organisation. 

Max Muller, (i) India^ what it 
can teach us. (2) The Six 
Systems of Indian Philosophy. 

Arley Munson, Kipling’s India. 

Sir T. Raleigh, Lord Curzon in 
India. 

Sir Stanley Reed, The Indian 
Year (annual). 

Sir J. D. Rees, (i) Modern India. 
(2) The Real India. 

Sir H. H. Risley, The People aj 
India. 

J. H. Rivet t - Carnac, Many 
Memories. 

Rousselet, India of the Rajas. 

Miss Scidmore, ll'Inter India. 

Sir John Strachey, India. 

The “Times/’ India and t/P^ 
Darbar. 

M, Townsend, Asia and Europe. 

Provincial Gazetteers. 


AR' 

Sir G. Bird wood, Industrial Arts 
of India. 

A. K. Coomaraswamy, (i) 
Indian Paintings. ('2) Rajput 
Paintings. 

James Fergusson, History of ' 
Indian and Eastern Archi- 
lecture y revised edition by Dr 
Burgess and R. P. Spiers. 1 

J. Fergusson and J. Burgess, Che i 
Cave Temples of India. 


A. Foucher, L'Arl Grico — L 
dhique dii Gandhara. 

E. B. Havell, (i) The Ideah 
of Indian Art. (2) India.' 
Sculpture and Painting. 
Maindron, E Art Indien. 

T. N Mukharji, Aid Manu- 
factures of India. 

V . A. Smith, A History of Fine 
Art in I?idia and Ceylon. 

Sir G. VV^att, Indian Art at 

Delhi, 



!■ tied. 


BOOKS 


XXXl 


BIUCtKA.}'HV 


i’ne Rulers of India Series. 

tuiied by Sir \V. \V. Hunter. 
^ r A J. Arbuthnot, Lord Clive. 
Lady Betty Balfour, Lord Lyttods 
Indian A dministralion. 

L. E. Buckland. Dictionary of 
Indian Biography. 

St G. Campbell, Memoirs of my 
Indian Career. 

b Cowell, Life of E. B. Cov.>ell. 

^ r M. E. Grant Duft", Sir Henry 
Maine. 

Lady Dufterin, Our Viceregal 
Life in India. 

Sir H. M. Durand, (i) Sir Henry 
Durand. ( 2 ) Sir A If red Lyall 
(3) Sir George White. 

H. B. Edwardes and H. Merivale, 
I ife of Sir Henry Lawrence. 
Lady Edwardes, Life of Sir 
Herbert Edwardes. 

Sir G. W. Forrest, Sepoy Generals. 
b- Gidumal, Behramji M. Mala- 
bari. 

Lieut.-Col. G. F. F. Graham, 
Sir Sved Ahmed Khan. 

L A. Hollings, Life of Colonel 
^ir C. C. ScotLMoncrieff. 

T W. \VL Hunter, Life of the 
Earl of Mayo. 

' r J \V Kaye, Lives of Indiaii 
Officers. 

Sir \V. Lee- Warner, Life of the 
Marquis of Dalhousie. 

Sir A. C. “ Lyall, Life of the 
Marquis of Dufferin and Ava. 


G. B. Malle son, The Founders of 
the Indian Empire. 

J. C. Marshman, (i) CareVy 
Marshmany and Ward. (2; 
Sir H. Havelock. 

]. Martineau, Life of Sir Bar tie 
' Frere. 

■ P. C. Mozumdar, The Life and 
' T each ingofKesh ub Ch under Sen 

' G. P. Pillai, Representative 

\ Indians. 

\ K, S. Ramaswami, Life of Sir 
j Rabindranath Tagore. 

\ Earl Roberts, Forty -one Years in 
' India. 

■ Dr George Smith, (i) Life of 

Bishop Heber. (2) Life of Dr 
Carey. (3) Twelve Indian 
.Statesmen. 

R. Bosworth Smith, Lord 

Lawrence. 

Vincent A. Smith, Akbar^ The 
i Great Mogul. 

Miss A. C. Taylor, General Sir 
Alex. Taylor. 

Sir R. Temple, Story of my Life. 
T. H. Thornton, Colon I Sir 
Robert Sandeman. 

\ L. J. Trotter, (i) Life of Genei'al 
I Sir James Outrani. (2) Life 
I of Hodson of Hodsods Horse. 

(3) Life of John Nicholson. 

I T. Walrond, The Eighth Earl oj 
j Elgin. 

I S. Wheeler, Abdur RaJunaUy the 
\ A mir. 


BURMA 


^•’shop Bigandet, Legend of 
Gaudama (for students of Bur- 
piese Buddhism). 

1 rd. Wanderings in Burma. 
A>cks, Short History of Burma. 

C. Conway Poole, Ballads of 
Burma. 

bos. Cook, Guide to Burma. 
b C. Crosthwaite, The Pacifica- 
tion of Burma. 

J^iming, Under the Shadow of 
^he Pagoda (sketches). 


i Max and Bertha Ferrars, Burma 
> (illustrations). 

1 A. Hugh Fisher, Through India 
I and Burma with Pe?i and 
Brush. 

Captain Forbes, Burma. 

A. Ireland, The Province of 
Burma. 

R. Talbot Kelly, Burma (illustra- 
tions). 

J. Nisbet, Burnuiy under British 
and Before. 



XXXI 1 


BOOKS 


India 


BURMA— coniinned 


V. Scott O'Connor, (i) The Silken 
East. (2) Mandalay and other 
Capitals of Burma. 

F. O. Oertel, Notes of a Tour 
in Burma; Rangoon (archce- 
ology, photographs). 

Sir A. P. Phayre, History of 
Burma. 

Sir J. G. Scott, Bumnese Ha?id~ 
book of Practical Information. 

Shway Yoe (Sir J. G. Scott), The 


Burman ; His Life and 
1 Notions. 

i Taw Sein Ko, Burmese Sketches. 

I Sir Herbert White, A Civil Ser- 
j vant in Burma. 

1 Annual Administration Reports 
' of the Province., and of the 
Superintendent., A rcJueological 
Survey^ 1901 -1917. 

Census Report., 1912. 

Gazetteer of British Burma. 


CEYLON 


Sir Samuel Baker, Rifie and 
Hound in Ceylon. 

Burrow, Buried Cities of Ceylon. 

H. W. Cave, (i) The Book of 
Ceylon. (2) Golden Tips. (3) 
Picturesque Ceylon. (4) The 
Ruined Cities of Ceylon. 

Farrer, In Old Ceylon. 

Hon. J. Fergusson, (i) Ceylon 
Handbook and Directoiy (an 
annual publication, a mine of 
information, statistical, etc.'). 
(2) Ceylon in 1903. (3) On 

Sport (in the St Louis Exhibi- 
tion Handbook). 

Major Forbes, Eleven Years in 
Ceylon., 1841. 

R. Enox, An Historical Relation 
oj Ceylon. 

G. E. Mitton, The Lost Cities of 
Ceylon., 1916. 


H. Parker, Ancient Ceylon. 

Skeen, Guides to Colombo and 
Kandy. 

Major T. B. Skinner, Fifty Vear'^ 
in Ceylon., 1891. 

John Still, A Guide to the 
Ancient Capitals of Ceylon 
(Cave,). 

H. Storey, Hunting and Shooting 
in Ceylon. 

Sir J. Emerson Tennent, Ceylon^ 
an account of the Island., 
i860 (retains its prv^-emin- 
ence). 

Manual., The Ceylon (originally 
compiled by ^^r H. White of 
the Ceylon Civil Service, re- 
vised and issued annually by 
the Government). 


CITIES 1 


Agra., Handbook to^ and its 
Neighbourhood., H. G. Keene 
and E. A. Duncan ; Handbook 
to Agra and the Taj., E. B. 
Havell. 

Benares., (i) Kashi, or Benares, 
by Rev. E, Greaves. (2) 
Handbook for Visitors to, Rev. 
M. A. Sherring. (3) The Holy 
City, Raj an i Rangan Sen (4) 
The Sacred City, E. B. Havell. 


(5) The Sacred City of the 
Hindus, Rev. M. A. Sherr- 
ing. 

Bombay, {\) 1 he Origin of Bonu 
•> J* C. Ga Cunha. (2) Bom.- 
bay and W. India, J. Douglas. 
(3) Bombay in the Making, P. 
B. M. Malabari. (4) The Rise 
of Bombay and Byways 0/ 
Bombay, S. M. Ed ward es. (3) 
Bombay, Major H. A. Newell. 


1 For Cevlon Cities, see Clylox list 



Introd. 


BOOKS 


xxxiii 


CITIES- 

Calcutta, (i) Calcutta^ Old and 
JVew, H. E. A. Cotton. (2) 
Calcutta^ Past and Present^ K. 
Blechynden. (3) Echoes froyn 
Old Calcutta^ H. E. Busteed. 

(4) Hartly House^ Calciiita. 

(5) Guide to Calcutta^ Rev. W. 
K. Firminger. 

Cawnpore, Cawnpore^ Sir G. O. 
Trevelyan. 

Dacca, Romance of an Eastern 
Lapital^ F. B. Bradley- Brit. 
Delhi, (i) Past and Present^ H. 
C. Fanshawe. (2) Seven Cities 
of Delif G. R. Hearn. (3) 
The History of the Kutb 
Minar^ R. N. IVIunshi. (4) 
The Siege of Delhi, General 
Sir F. R. JMaunsell. 

India, Cities of India, Sir G. W. 
Forrest. 

Lahore, Lahore, Muhammad 
Latif. 

Lucknow, Lucknow, Major H. A. 
Newell. 


-continued 

{ Madras, (i) Fort St George, 

; Madras, jNIrs J. Penny. (2) 

! Madras in the Olden Time, 

I 1639-1748, J. T. Wheeler. (3) 

I Memories of Madras, Sir C. 
j Lawson. (4) Vicissitudes of 
i Fort St George, D. Leighton. 

I '5) Vestiges of Old Madras, 

1 Lt.-Col. H. D. Lowe, 
j Mandalay, Mandalay and Other 

I Cities of Burma, V. Scott 

I O’Connor. 

I Murshidabad, History of Mur- 
] shidabad. Major J. H. T. 

I Walsh. 

1 Ootacamund, Ootacamund, Sir J, 
j F. Price. 

I Poona, Thirty - four Years in 
j Poona City, Rev. Father 

I El win. Poo7ia and its Battle- 
I fields, Colonel L. W. Shake- 
1 spear. 

Simla, Past and Present, E. J. 

! Buck. 


HISTORY 


P. Brown, Picturesque Nepal 

Dr James Burgess, The Chron- 
ology of Modern India, 1494 to 
1894. : 

J. D. Cunningham, History of \ 
the Sikhs (Edited by H. L. O. 
Garrett). 

C. M. Duff, The Chronology of ' 
India from the earliest times to \ 
the beginning of the i bth \ 
century. \ 

Mountstuart Elphinstone, The ^ 
History of India. 1 

Dr Fitch ett. The Tale of the 
Great Mutiny. 

A. K. Forbes, Ras Mala (Hindu 
Annals of Gujarat). 

Sir G. W. Forrest, History of the . 
Indian Mutiny. 

R. W. Frazer, A Literary History ' 
of India. 


Sir E. A. Gait, A History of 
Assam. 

Manomohan Gangooly, Orissa 
and her Re^nains. 

D. G. Hogarth, The Ancient 
East. 

T. R. E. Holmes, History of the 
Indian Mutiny. 

Sir W. W. Hunter, (i) A 
Brief History of the Indian 
Peoples. (2) The Indian 
Empire. 

A. D. Innes, A Short History of 
the British in India. 

Lieut.-Gen. J. M'Leod innes, 
Lucknow and Oudh duri?ig the 
Mutiny. 

W. Irvine, Storia do Mogor. 

Sir J. W. Kaye and G. B. 
Malle son. History of the 
Indian Mutiny : 6 vols. 


c 



XXXIV 


BOOKS 


India 


HISTORV- 

Pringle Kennedy, A History of 
the Great Moghuls. 

Muhammad Latif, History of the 
Panjab. 

Sir A. Lyall, The Rise and Ex- 
pansion of the British Dominion 
i?i htdia. 

Colonel A. R. D. Mackenzie, 
Mutiny Memoirs. 

G. B. Malleson, (i) History of 
the French in India^ from 1674- 
1761. (2) The Decisive Battles 

of India. 

J. C. Marshman, History of 
India. 

P. E. Roberts, Historical 
Geography of India., Part I., 
1916. 

V. A. Smith, (i) The Early 
History of India (2) The 
Oxford Studenfs History of 
Iridia. 


■continued 

Sir J. F. Stephen, Nuncofuar and 
Impey. 

Zenaide A. Rag- 
ozin, Vedic 
India. 

Professor T. \V> 
Rhys Davids, 
Buddhist India. 
Stanley L a n e - 
Poole, Medkcval 
India. 

R- W. Frazer, 
British India. 

Sir John Strachey, Hastings and 
the Rohilla War. 

Colonel Sir E. Thackeray, AV- • 
miniscences of the Indian 
Mutiny and Afghanistan. 

Colonel J. Tod, Rajasthan, 
Annals and Antiquities of 

Capt. H. Wilberforce-Bell, Afa/A/- 
au>ad from the Earliest Times. 


The Story* 
of the 
Nations 
Series.” \ 


KASHMIR 


Hon. Mrs C. G. Bruce, Kashmir. 

John Collett, A Guide for Visitors 
to Kashmir .i corrected to 1898, 
by A. Mitra, with a route map. 

F- Drew, The fammu and Kash- 
mir Territories. 

Lieut -Col. J. Duke, Kashmir 
and Jammu. 

Sir W. R. Lawrence, The Valley 
of Kashmir. 

M^Donell, J. C., Hints on Hill- 
Travelling in Kashmir. 


E. Molyneux and Sir F. Young- 
husband, Kashmir. 

Lieut.-Col. T. G. Montgomerie, 
Routes in the Western Hima- 
layas^ Kashmir., etc. 

Dr A. Neve, Picturesque Kashmir. 

E. F. Neve, M.D., (i) Beyond 
the Pir Panjal. (2) Tourists' 
Guide. 

F. Parbury, The Emerald set %i>iih 
Pearls, being Reminiscences ot 
Kashmir. 


LANGUAGES 


Forbes, Hindustani Manual. 

Sir G. A. Grierson, Manual of 
the Kashmiri Language. 

A. A. Macdonnell, A History of 
Sanskrit Literature. 

Marlborough, Burmese Hindu- 
stani, Persian, Tamil, Sin- 
halese: Self-Taught. 

G. S. Ranking, (i) A Guide 
to Hindustani. (2) A Pocket 
Book of Colloquial Hindustani. 


E. Rogers, How io speak Hindu, 
stani. 

J. T. Platts and G. S. Ranking. 
A Grammar of the Fersian 
Language. 

Rev. G. W. Thatcher, Arabic 
Grammar, of the Written 
Language. 

Sir J. Vaughan, A Grammar 
and Vocabulary of the Pushtu 
Language. 





In trod. 


BOOK^ 


XXXV 


i'ULl XiCAJ. 


M. Joseph C hail ley, Administra- 
tive f-* rob I e ms of Bii fist: India 
.Sir Wilentine Chiroi, Indian 
ifU'LSt 

Lonl Cur/on, (i) Indian Spctolcs. 
2 vol^. ( Calcutta). 2^ 'table 
. fA Yc/it's Madras' 

''ir 1' Holtlh h, (i) IVio (uitt's 
o>f India. 2 . The Indian 
Ida'der/amf 1 1 900 . 

^:r C» P llbert, Tie Ciuvernnient 
of India. 


Hon. H. Keppel, Gun-running, 
and the Indian iV.~ir. Frontier. 

Sir \V. Lee- Warner, The Native 
States of India. 

Loid Morley, Indian Speedier. 

7'. Penneil, Anioni^ the 

Wild Tribes of the Afghan 
I rontier. 

SiT C L. 7'apper, Our Indian 
Protectorate. 

Sir R. \\7irburton, ] Va;a' 
in tie Kliyt'er 


RBI.IG 

.\nieer Ah, Syed, \ ' The Eihiei 
i>f Ldam. 2 The .Spirit vt 

hlaOi . 

IJhattacliarya, f^andit Jo^endra 
Nath, Hindu CaOeii and St et.', 
Lose, Shil) Chuuder, llic Hindus 
a.s thev arc. 

.\ K. t.‘oomara>\vaniy, Buddha 
•ind the Gospel H Buddhimn. 
ihshop Copleston, Buddhmn j 
Primitroe and Ilaseni, in 
Ma^eiadfa and in Ceylon. 2nd 
Kdition, igod. 

W- <A'ool;e, The Popular Peliy^ion 
iind Folk - lore id Northern 
India. 

Professor Rhys Davids. A/-'/ 

Wrs Rhys Daxid^', Buddhism. 

A Dubois, Hindu Maniurs., 
Cush ^ni aru 7 G me /non ie.i , 

alited by H. K. Beauchamp. 

N. Far(]uhar, rl P/inier oj 
Hinduism. 

J. II. H. (iordon, The Sikhs. 

W Hopkins, I'he Religions of 
India. 

ig in a n d e r 1 a 1 , Outlines <ff : ii nism . 
^endrik Kern, Manual of Indian 
Buddhism. 

-• S. V. Ketkar, History of Caste 
n India., and an Essay on 
Tinduism. 

Lillingston, The Brahmo 
<itmaj a?id Ary a Samaj. 


lOXS 

M- A. Ma(.auhffe, The Sikh 
Ileliyion. 

Pi'ofes^or Margoliouth, Muham- 
madani s/n. 

J Murray- Mitchell, I'he Great 
Pel ly it ms of I ndia. 

Sir W Muir, j j The Koran. 
2 ) 'The fife of Muhammad. 

j. X. 0;.;ihie, The Apostles of 
I nd\i 

Ke\' F. I'crry, The Churih in 
Mad/'as. 

G. B. Ibatt. In dll and its 
Faiths. 

Rev. Canon Robinson, Tl //A- 
tor\' <d I/ithiin Mission^ 

R. \7 kussell, 'The 'H ^s and 
Cade.s i>f i he Central ) vinces 
of India. 

K. J. Saunders, Buddhism. 

J. \V. H. Stobart, Islam and 
Founder. 

L. A. Waddell, The Buddhism of 
Tibet, or Lamaism. 

Bu,hop Whitehead, The Village 
Goth of South India. 

W. J. Wilkins, (i i Hindu Mylh- 
ology. { 2 ) Modern Hinduism. 

Sir ^^onler Williams, (i) Bud- 
dhism. 12 ) Brahmanism and 
Hinduism, {f) Hinduism. (4) 
Indian IVisdoni. {^) Religious 
Thought and Life in India. 



XXXVl 


BOOK^ 


IndiiX 


SPORT 


F. G. Aflalo, The Sportsman’s 
Book for India, 

E. C. Stuart Baker, The Indian 
Ducks and their A Hies. 

W. S. Burke, The Indian Field 
Shikar Book. 

Syd. A. Christopher, Big Game 
Shooting in Lo’iver Burma. 

Sir E. L. Durand, Ri/ie, Rod) and 
Spear in the East. 

G. W. N. Fergus son, Adve^iture, 
Sporty and Travel in the 
Tibetafi Steppes. 

F. Finn, The Game Birds of 
India and Asia. 

F. W, F. Fletcher, Sport on the 
Nilgiris and in Wynaad. 

C- E. Goiildsbury, (i) Life in the 
Indian Police. (2) Ti^er- Slayer 
by Order. 

Brig. -General A. Kinloch, Large 


\ Game Shooting in Tibet, the 
Hi m a I ayas^ etc. 

Rudyard Kipling, The fungle 
Book. 

T. Lockwood Kipling, Beast and 
Man in India. 

\ A. Le iMessurier, Game) Shore 
and Water Birds of huiia. 

C. E. M. Russell, Bullet and Shot 
in Indian Forest) Plain) and 
\ Hill. 

'' E. P. Stebbing, Stalks in tJu 
I Himalaya. 

\ R. A. Sterndale, (i) Seonee, or 
! Camp Life on the Sntpure 
I Range. (2; A Natural Histor^' 
of the Mammalia of India. 

Hugh Stewart/ Station Polo. 

H. S. Thomas, the Rod in Indh 
' R. H. Tyacke, The Sportsman 
Manual. 


TRAVELS 


Dr V. Ball, J. B. TaverniePs 
Travels. 

F. Bernier, Travels in the 
yiughal Empire. 

Bishop Chatterton, The Story of 
Gondwa^ta. 

Sir James Douie, The Punjab) 
N.~ W. Frontier P^wincO) and 
Kashmir. 

Capt. j/mes Forsyth, The High- 
landyof Central India. 

St John Gore, Tour to the Pindari 
Glacier. 

N. R. Hamilton, Through Won- 
derful India and Beyond. 

Bishop Heber, Indian four?ials, 
1824-1826. 

Sir T. Holdich, Tibet the 
Mysterious, 


A. H. H. Murray, The Highrot 
, of Einpire. 

; E. F. Oaten, European Travelle 
in India. 

T. L. Pennell, Things seen 
i Upper India. 

i H. G. Rawlinson, Inter cour 

: between India and the I Tester 

' World from Earliest Times i 

Fall of Rome. 

. Sir W. H. Sleeman, Rambles an 
Recollections. New Edition b 
V. A. Smith. 

j L. A- Waddell, A^nong tJu 
Himalayas. 

J. Claude White, Sikhim am 
Bhutan. 


^riSCELLANEOUS 


E. H. Aitken, (i) A Naturalist 
on the Prowl. (2) Behind the 
Bungalow. (3) Tribes on my 
Fi'oniier. 

F. Anderson, The English in 
Western India. 


Sir Edwin Arnold, Tmiia A\.. 
visited. 

The Ferns o/ 
/ /niia, Ceylon, and the MalF 
Peninsula. 


4 


BOOKS 


XXX Vll 


m^CELLM^KOVS—con^rnued 


'Od. 


uchanan, Malariat, Fever a 7 id 
'alarial Parasites in India. 
iph Cheem, Lay's of Ind. 

. Crooke, (i) Natives of North- 
ern India. (2) Things India?!. 

C. M. Enriquez, The Pathan 
Borderland. 

Abul Fazl, A in-i-Akbari (ed. by H . 
Bloch mann and H. S. Jarrett,'. 

(k Festing, (i) From the Land 
of Princes. (2) When Kings 
rode to Delhi. 

Claud Field, Dictionary of 
Oriental ( 2 uotations. 

F. Finn, Garden and Aviary 
Birds of India. 

T. A. C. Firmiro'er, A Manual 
of Gardenia^ for Bengaf 
Upper and Southern India. 

R. W. Frazer, A Liiera?y History 
of India. 

Indo- Anglian Literature. 

H. R. James, Education and 
Statesmanship i?i India. 

S. P. James and W. G. Liston, 
A Monograph of the Anopheles 
Mosquitoes of India. 

Lovell and MacMunn, The 
Armies of India. 

Sir A. Lyall, Asiatic Studies.^ 
Religious and Social. 

(t. a. Mackay, Twenty -one Days 
in India: Being the Tour of 
Sir AH Baba^ K.C.B. 

John Matthai, Village Govern- 
ment in British India. 

H. Maxwell-Lefroy, Indian Imect- 
Life. 

Radhakumud Mookerjee, Indian 
Shipping.^ A Hi dory of and 
Maritime Activity from the 
Earliest Times, 

M. Mookerjee, O nocool Chunder 
Mookerjee., A Memoir of the 
late fusticc. 

Capt. H. L, Nevill, Campaigns 
on the N- W. Frontier. 

}. C. Oman, (i) Cults, Custom 
and Superstitions of India 
(2) Mystics, u I scetiesy and Saints 
of India. 


G. Patterson, A Geography of 
India., Physical, Political, and 
Conimercial. 

J, E. Power, Vade Mecum for 
Officers and Civilians Proceed- 
ing to India : Languages and 
Sport, by G. M. Routh. 

E. Reynolds-Ball, Outfit and 
Equipment for the Traveller, 
Explorer, and Sportsman. 

\V. Roxburgh, Flora Indica. 

Shadwell and Sherston, North- 
West Frontier IVaifare. 

S. Nihal Singh, Ihe Kings 
Indian Allies. 

Meadows Taylor, Confessions of 
a Thug. 

E. Thurston, Omens and Supersti- 
tions of Southern India. 

Isa Tweed, Poultiy Keeping in 
India. 

E. \V. Vredenburg, Geology of 
India. 

'Sir G. Watt, Commercial Piv- 
ducts of India. 

S. Wheeler, The Coronation 
Darbar. 

Temple Wright, Flowers and 
Gardens in India. 

Yule and Burnell, Hobson~fob- 
son. 

Army Lists ; Civil Lists ; Direc- 
tories (Thacker ; “ Times of 
India” : Asylum Press) \ Postal 
Guide; The T?^avelle?^s Com- 
panion (Calcutta^ Some of 
these Will be found in all Clubs 
and at most large Hotels. 
Many of the railways have 
published guides with capital 
illustrations, which are well 
worth buying as mementoes 
of a visit to India. Special 
information in detail re- 
garding any place in India 
can be found in the Pro- 
vincial Gazetteers: there is 
a separate volume for each 
district. 

The Motor U?iion Insurance Road 
Map of India. 



htdia 


xxxviii 


THE VOYAGE 


(2) VOYAGE FROM ENGLAND TO GIBRAL'FAR, 
MARSEILLES, MALTA, PORT SAID, THROUGH 
. THE SUEZ CANAL AND RED SEA TO ADEN 
AND BOMBAY 


The principal steamer lines running from England to India are 
the P. & (Mail) and British India Companies (now combined 
under the direction of Lord Inchcape) to Bombay, Colombo, Madras, 
and Calcutta ; the Bibby, Ellerman ('City and Hall) and Anchor 
Lines ; the Messageries Maritirnes from Marseilles, and the Rubattino 
from Genoa ; while boats of the Orient Company run twice a month 
to Colombo, only 38 hours by rail from Madras. For a table of 
comparative rates of steamer fares see p. clxxiv. 

The comfort of the voyage depends much on the choice of the 
steamer, and the cabin. The largest steamers, as having less motion, 
and more room on deck, are usually preferable to smaller vessels. In 
going through the Red Sea to India the outer cabins on the poit side 
are the best. On the return voyage the starboard cabins are better, 
but the difference is not material. The P. &; O. and British India 
provide electric fans in the cabins, free of charge. 

On going on board it is weli^ to arrange for the passenger's seat, 
or his party^s seats, at table as soon as possible, as after the first dinner 
at sea, when seats have been assigned, it is difficult to make a change. 
They are usually allotted by the chief steward. 

It is usual to give a present of los. to the cabin steward, and 10s. 
to the waiter at table. On the steamers of the P. & O. and British 
India Companies passengers are entitled to medical attendance by 
the ship’s surgeon, at a fixed charge of 5s. per visit for ist, and 
2s. 6d. per visit for 2nd-ciass passengers. 

The timings of the P. & O. mail steamers are usually as follows : 


Gibraltar 

Marseilles 


I>AY> Al'iliK leaving 
London Marseilles 

4 

6 j' 23 hours by speciaPi 
I train from London. | 
"1 Everv Thursday al f 


Brindisi (suspended during the War) 


Port Said 

Aden 

Bombay 


1 1 
16 
20? 


Brindisi 


I 2 da} s b} .spLCial I 
Y Uain from London. !- 
(LvervFriday, 9 p. m. j 

ni 


1 P. & O. and British India Oiiiccs • 122 i.eadLuhail StreK KC ^ and 
17 Northumterland Avenue, W.C. 2,^ London. Orient S. N. Co.’ iFe'nchurch 

" ' ' ' " i?' ’1’'’'^=- -Son ((JuncMl 

iLcadih} \\ ,, branches. 


Avenue, E.C. 3, 
Passage Agents^ 


C'ockspur Sneet, W. 

; Ludgate Cireus, K C , 



Introd. 


BAV OF BISCAY 


XXXI X 


The time occupied from London by the P. & O. and British 
India steamers* running to Calcutta, and P. & O. steamers to China 
and Japan, is usually : — 

Malta, 8 days. Aden, 17 days. Calcutta, 31 days. 

Port Said, ii „ Colombo, 25 Hongkong, 38 ,, 

The Messageries boats sad from Marseilles, where also the 
P. & O. and the Orient Line steamers (from London) touch. The 
British India and Orient Pacific usually call at Napleb also, the 
former also calling occasionally at Genoa. The P. & O. mail 
steamers start from the Tilbury Dock, and the intermediate steamers 
from the Royal Albert Docks, London. These outward steamers are, 
under normal conditions, nearly always in advance of their scheduled 
time after leaving Port Said. 

Travelling by sea from England, through the Bay of Biscay, 
results in a saving of a few pounds as compared with the expense 
of the overland route via Marseilles, although it adds a few days to 
the voyage ; good sailors may prefer the greater quiet of sea life to 
the scurry of a long overland journey. The first place sighted is 
generally Cape la Hague, or Hogue, on the W. coast of the Cotentin, 
in France, oft which, on the 19th of May 1692, Admiral Russell, after- 
wards Earl of Orford, defeated De Tourville, and sunk or burned 
sixteen French men-oFwar. Then Cape Finisterre {finis terrcE)^ a 
promontory on the W. Coast of Galicia, in Spam, and m K. lat. 42" 
54', and W. long. 9" 20', will probably be seen, off which Anson 
defeated the French fleet in 1747. The next land sighted will be, 
perhaps. Cape Roca, near Lisbon, artd then Cape St Vincent, m 
N. lat. 37'’ 3', \V. long. 8" 59', at the S.W. corner of the Portuguese 
province Algarve, off which Sir G. Rodney, on the 16th January 1780, 
defeated the Spanish fleet, and Sir J. Jervis won his Earldom on the 
14th of February 1797, and Nelson the Order of the Bath, after 
taking the N. Josef 200.6. the S, Nicholas^ of 112 guns each. This Cape 
has a fort upon it, and the white cliffs, 150 feet high, are honey- 
combed by the waves, which break with great violence upon them. 
From the last three Capes steamers are signalled to Lloyd's. Just 
before entering the Straits of Gibraltar, Cape Trafalgar^ will also 
probably be seen in N. lat. 36" 9', W. long. 6' i\ immortalised by 
Nelson’s victory of the 21st of October 1805. Tarifa is next passed, and 
Q-ibraltar then comes in sight. The table of distances (p. xl) is from the 
pocket-book of the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Com- 
pany. This little book, costing only 2s. 6d., can be highly recom- 
mended. 

i Tarf-al-gharb, the sitle of the West. 



xl 


(;iBR ALTAR 


India 


Table OF Distancfs between the various Ports according to the Routes taken by 
THE Steamers of the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company. 


Londo n {t/via Plymouth add 50) 


Via 

Malta 

295 

Plymouth 

1309 

T054 

Gibraltar 

2003 

1748 

694 

Marseilles 

2290 

2035 

' 93 i 


Malta 


- 

- 

- 

: - 

- 

Brindisi 

Via 

Morse 

iUes 

1508 

935 

930 


3225 

3511 

3256 1 

2202 

Port Said 

3268 ! 

3554 

3299 ' 

2245 

1551 

978 ' 

973 

43 

Ismailla 

4620 

4906 

4651 ; 

3597 

2903 

2330 

2325 

1395 

1352 1 

Adeo 

6284 

6570 

6315 

5261 

4567 

3994 

3989 

3059 

3016 I 

1664 .Bombay 

<5713 

6999 

6744 

5690 

4996 

4423 

4418 

3488 

5445 

1 2093 875 i Colombo 

7973 

S-59 

8004 

6950 

6256 

5683 

5678 

4748 

4705 

3353 { 2135 1 1260 1 Calcutta 


GIBRALTAR. — As the steamers rarely stop for more than a few 
hours, passengers will not find time for anything^ beyond aualk in the 
town and lower fortifications. The place is a good one to buy tobacco, 
as there is no duty and it is cheap. There are steamers from Gibraltar 
three times a week to Tangier, and a number of times daily to 
Algeciras,^ the terminus of the Spanish railway. 

Gibraltar was reckoned as one of the Pillars of Hercules, the African 
pillar being Abyla, near Ceuta. It was taken from the Visigoths in 
71 1 A.D. by Tank Ibn Zayad — after whom it was called Jabal al Tarik 
— Gibraltar — and retaken 1309, but not finally wrested from the Moors 
till 1503. In 1704 It was taken by the English, and sustained several 
sharp sieges by the French and Spaniards between that date and 1779. 
In the latter year commenced the memorable siege which lasted four 
years, and ended by the repulse of the combined fleets of France and 
Spain by the garrison under General Eliott, Lord Heathfield of 
Gibraltar, 1779-83. Since that time it has remained an uncontested 
possession of the English. Proposals to restore it to Spain have 
been made from time to time, but have never met with general 
approval. 

As the steamer rounds Point Carnero. the spacious, but exposed 
hay, 6 m. wide and 10 m deep, is entered, and a fine view is obtained 
of the vast rocky promontory, which on the X. face rises in a per- 
pendicular precipice i2oof[. high, and ascends in the centre to 140S ft. 
It is 3 m in length, and from \ m. to J m. in breadth : and is joined 

‘ Ai-ju/ira. a puainsuia, ur oland. 



Introd. 


GIBRALTAR 


xli 


to the mainland by a low, sandy isthmus, m. in length. On all 
sides but the W. it is steep and rugged, but on that side there is a 
general slope of from 200 to 300 ft. from the rock down to the sea. 
The approach from the \V. reveals three high points — N. is the 
Rock Gun, or Wolf’s Crag, 1337 ft. ; in the centre the Upper Signal 
Station, or El Hacko, 1255 ft. high ; and S. is O'Hara's Tower, 
1408 ft. Here the rock descends to Windmill Hill Flats, a level 
plateau \ m. long, which ends in a still lower plateau from 100 to 
50 ft. above the sea, called Europa Flats. The new mole, landing- 
place, and dockyard, occupy the west side from opposite O'Hara'.s 
Tower to the Signal Station, and the town lies alcove them from 
opposite the latter point to the Rock Gun Peak. The population 
of the place amounts to 27,000, and the garrison to between 5000 
and 6000. The hotels are situated in West Port Street, which, with 
Its continuations, forms the main thoroughfare of the place froni 
the Land Port to the Soutk Port Gate. 

When passengers land at Gibraltar passports are exacted from 
all but British subjects, and sketching is strictly prohibited. The 
hour of evening gun-fire varies according to the time of year ; a few 
minutes later all gates are shut till sunrise, though up to a later fixed 
hour entrance is permitted with certain police formalities. 

The Main Street may be followed as far as the Alameda, outside 
the South Port ; this was the parade-ground until 1814, when Sir 
George Don made a lovely garden of it. A column brought from 
the ruins of Lepida is surmounted by a bust of the Duke of 
Wellington, and there is also a bust of General Eliott, the hero of 
the great siege 1779-83. Half-way down the street is the Exchange, 
with the Club House to the W. The English Cathedral Church of 
the Holy Trinity, built in the Moorish style in 1832, stands near 
these, and the Governor s residence farther on, which once belonged 
to Franciscan friars, is still called ‘'The Convent.' On the left, 
outside the South Port Gate, is a small cemetery, in which many who 
died of wounds received at the Battle of Trafalgar are buried : and 
farther South, below the Alameda, is the dockyard. An upper and a 
lower road lead from here to the Windmill Hill and Europa Flats. 
Beyond these, on the E. shore, is the summer residence of the 
Governor, called ‘‘The Cottage," built by (Tcneial Fox. 

Those who stay here several days can explore the Heights and 
fortifications of Gibraltar, for which a special order from the 
Military Authorities is necessary. From the Rock Gun there is a 
fine view of the Ronda Mountains and the Sierra Nevada; the 
Moorish Castle {746 a.l».) is on the way to it, and under a massive 
tower, called the Torre de Omenaga, are some well - constructed 
tanks. Beyond are the wonderful galleries in the North face excavated 



xlii 


MARSEILLES 


India 


by convict labour. From the Signal House is a noble view, which 
includes the Atlas Mountains, Ceuta, and Barbary, ending with the 
Bay of Tangier, a Morocco seaport. Between the Rock Gun and 
O’Hara’s Tower live a few monkeys, which are jealously protected. 
S. of the Signal Station, and i too ft. above the sea, is the celebrated 
St Michael’s Cave, which can be visited by special permission only i 
an entrance scarcely 6 ft. wide leads into a hall 200 ft. long and 60 ft 
high, supported by stalactite pillars like Gothic arches. Beyond are 
smaller caves, which have been traversed to a distance of 288 ft. In 
Windmill Hill are the four Genista caves, where many bones of men 
and animals have been discovered. 

Beyond the Land Port Gate is a causeway leading into Spain, with 
the sea on the left, and the “ Inundation,” a sheet of water so called, 
on the right Beyond these is the North Front, where are the 
cemetery, the cricket-ground, and the race-course. The Eastern beach, 
called “ Ramsgate and Margate,” is the general afternoon resort. 
Across the isthmus is a line of English sentries, then the Neutral 
Ground, and then the Spanish sentries. Behind the Spanish lines is 
the town of La Linea de la Conception, with a population of 30,000. 

Marseilles^ (826 m. from London by railway).^Passengers to 
India, joining a P. & O. steamer at Marseilles, and travelling by 
the P. & O, express (ist class tickets /6, 14s. iid. + ^2, 15s. — total 
;^9, 9s. I id.), leave London at ii A.M. on Thursday in each week, and 
Calais at 3.55 P.M., and reach Marseilles at 7.10 a.m. Friday, the 
special train proceeding alongside of the steamer, which does not 
start until the train has arrived. This is berthed at mole C., at the 
Western end of the new Basin National, and some 3| ni. distant 
from the ordinary railway station. The Grand Hotel Terminus at the 
station is a convenient place to stay at for one night, or the Grand 
Hotel de Louvre near the old harbour. Passengers arriving by 
steamer, who have some hours to spare, should, if possible, drive 
up the main street or Caniiabiere to the Museum, with a Picture 
Gallery and Zoological Gardens, and then from the middle of the 
former by the Rue de Rome and the Prado to the coast East of the 
city, and along that back to the Port by the Via Corniche, finally 
visiting the lofty situated church of Notre Dame de la Garde for 
the sake of the splendid view. The same round can be made by 
the electric tramways. 

If passengers via Marseilles do not travel by the P. & O. 
express, they have to leave London at latest by the 9 A.M. train on 
Thursday from Charing Cross to Dover, and are recommended to 
drive across Pans to the Gare de Lyon rather than trust to the 

1 These statements represent the pre-W'ar arrangements, which are meantime 
suspended (November 1917). 



Introd. 


MALTA 


xliii 


Ceinture railway. The P.L.M. train is due at Marseilles at 9 A.M., 
and no time should be lost in joining the steamer, which starts 
at 10 A.M. 

Brindisi (1450 m. from London by railway). — Details of this 
route to Port Said should be obtained from the P. & O. Company. 

Malta. — On the way from Gibraltar to Malta, by steamers which 
do not proceed to Marseilles, Algiers may possibly be seen, its white 
buildings stretching like a triangle, with its base on the sea and the 
apex on higher ground. Cape Fez and the promontory of the Seven 
Capes, jagged, irregular headlands, are passed on the starboard 
side, also Cape Bon, the most Northern point of Africa, and the 
Island of Pantellaria, the ancient Cossyra, between Cape Bon 
and Sicily- It is 8 m. long, volcanic, and rises to a height of 
more than 2000 ft- There is a town of the same name near the 
seashore, on the western slope, where there is much cultivation. It 
is used by the Italians as a penal settlement, and is rather smaller 
than Gozo. 

The Maltese group of islands consists of Gozo, Comino, and 
Malta, and stretches from N.W. to S.E., the total distance from 
San Dimitri, the most \V. point of Ciozo, to Ras Benhisa, the most 
S. part of Malta, being about 25 m. From the nearest point of Gozo 
to Sicily is 55 in , and Africa is 187 m. distant from IMalta. Malta 
lies in N. lat. 35' 53' 49", K. long. 14" 30' 28". It is 17 m. long and 
8 m. broad. Its area, together with that of Gozo, is 116 sq. m-, and 
the population of the thiee islands is about 150,000, the numbers of the 
garrison being about 10,000. It consists tif calcareous the highest 

point being 590 ft. abo\e the sea-level. Towards the S. it ends in 
precipitous cliffs. It has a barren appearance, but there are many 
fertile gardens and fields, enclosed in high walls, where fine oranges, 
grapes, and figs, and other crops, returning from thirty- to sixty-fold, 
are grown. The Maltese language is a mixture of Arabic and 
Italian, but most of the townspeople have sufficient knowledge of 
Italian to transact business in that tongue. The port of Malta is 
situated somewhat to the E. of the centre of the Northern shore of 
the island. It consists of two fine harbours, separated by the narrow 
promontory called Mount Xiberras, or Sciberras. The Western or 
quarantine harbour, protected by Fort Tigne on the W., is called 
Marsamuschetto : the other is Valetta, or the great harbour, and 
in it the men-of-war are moored. The entrance to the great 
harbour is protected on the W. by Fort St Elmo at the end of 
Sciberras, and on the E. by Fort Ricasoli, both very formidable. At 
Fort St Elmo is one of the finest lighthouses in the Mediterranean. 
The great harbour runs away into numerous creeks and inlets, in 
which are the dockyard, victualling-yard, and arsenal — all ol which 



MALTA 


India 


xliv 


could be swept by the guns of St Angelo, which is a fort behind 
St Elmo ; on the E. side here is the town called Citta Vittoriosa. 
The mail steamers are moored in the quarantine harbour ; the charge 
for landing is one shilling per head. On landing a long flight of 
steps is ascended to the Strada San Marco, which leads to the 
principal street, Strada Eeale, ^ m. long, in the town of Valetta, 
so called from Jean de La \^alette, Grand Master of the Knights 
of St John of Jerusalem, who built it after the Turkish armament 
sent against Malta by Sultan Sulaiman II. had been repulsed. The 
foundation stone was laid on the 28th of March 1 566, and the whole 
town, designed by one architect, Girolamo Cassar, was completed 
in May 1571. 

Left of the Strada Reale is St John's Cathedral— a remarkable 
church, both historically and architecturally— designed by Cassar. 
The- floor is paved with slabs bearing the arms of scores of knights 
who have been interred in this church. In the first chapel on the 
right the altar-piece represents the beheading of John the Baptist, and 
is by M. Angelo Caravaggio. In the next chapel, which belonged to 
the Portuguese, are the monuments of Manoel Pinto and Grand Master 
Manoel de Vilhena, the latter of bronze. The third, or Spanish 
chapel, has the monuments of Grand Masters Perellos and 
N. Cotoner, and two others. The fourth chapel belonged to the 
Provencals. The fifth chapel is sacred to the Virgin, and here are 
kept the town keys, taken from the Turks. On the left of the entrance 
is a bronze monument of Grand Master Marc Antonio Sondadario. 
The first chtipel on the left is the sacristy. The second chapel 
belonged to the Austrians, the third to Italians, containing pictures, 
ascribed to Caravaggio, of St Jerome and Mary Magdalene. The 
fourth is the French chapel, and the fifth the Bavarian, and hence a 
staircase descends to the crypt, where are the sarcophagi of the first 
Grand Master who ruled in Malta, L’lsle Adam, and of de La Valette 
and others. 

The G-overnoTS Palace, formerly the Grand Masters, close to the 
Strada Reale, is a noble range of building-, containing marble-paved 
corridors and staircase, and many portraits, and armed figures carry- 
ing the shields of all the Governors from the first Grand Master to 
the present day. The armoury is full of interesting relics, including 
the original deed granted to the Knights of St John of Jerusalem by 
Pope Pascal II. in 1 126, and the deed when they left Rhodes in 1522. 
The Library, close to the Palace, contains 40,000 volumes and some 
Phoenician and Roman antiquities. The highest battery commands 
a fine view of both harbours and of the fortifications. There are 
several statues of Grand Masters and Governors in the walk on the 
ramparts. The Opera House, the Bourse, the Courts of Justice, 



Introd, 


IMALTA 


xlv 


once the Auberge d’ Auvergne, and the Union Club, once the Auberge 
de Province, and the statues of L'Isle Adam and de La Valette, are 
in the Strada Reale. The Auberge dTtalie, to the E. of the S. 
end of this street, is the Royal Engineers office, and the Auberge de 
Castille, near it, has become the Headquarters of the Artillery ; the 
Auberge de ranee, in the Strada Mezzodi, is now the house of the 
Comptroller of Military Stores, and the Auberge d’Aragon the 
residence of the General of the Garrison. The Auberge d’Allemagne 
was removed in order to erect St Paul's Church on its site. The 
Anglo-Bavarian Auberge is the Headquarters of the regiment 
stationed at St Elmo. In front of the Auberge de Castille are the 
Piazza Regina and Upper Barracca, affording splendid views of the 
great harbour. The Military Hospital has the largest room in 
Europe, 480 ft. long, erected in 1628 by Grand Master Vasconcelos. 
Below the Military Hospital is the Civil Hospital for Incurables^ 
founded by Caterina Scappi in 1646. 

One mile beyond the Porta Reale and the station of the little rail- 
way to Civita \>cchia is the Governor’s country Palace of St Antonio, 
with a lovely garden. About h m. farther to the S.W. is Citta 
VeccMa, which stands on a ridge from 200 to 300 ft. high, affording 
a view over nearly the whole island. There is a fine church here, 
St Paul's, and near it are some curious catacombs. St Paul's Bay 
lies at the N.W. extremity of the island ; there is a statue of bronze 
erected on an islet at its mouth. The Carthaginian or Phoenician 
ruins at Hagier Chem, properly Hajar Kaim, ‘^upright stone,'’ 
near the village oi Casal Crendi, can be visited on the way to it. 
These ruins, excavated in 1839, consist of wails of large stones fixed 
upright in the ground, forming small enclosures, connected wnth one 
another by passages, and all contained within one large enclosure. 
The building is thought to have been a temple of Baal and Astarte. 
'rhe main entrance is on the S.S.E., and a passage leads from it 
into a court, on the left of which is an altar, with the semblance of 
a plant rudely sculptured on it. Similar remains are found in other 
parts of Malta and in Gozo. 

iMalta is said to have been occupied by the Phoenicians in 1500 
li.C. and by the Greeks in 750 B.c. The Carthaginians got possession 
of it in 500 B.c, and the Romans took it towards the close of the 
Second Punic War. The Goths and Vandals invaded it in 420 a.d. In 
520 A.D. Belisarius made it a province of the Byzantine Empire, the 
Moslems conquered it in 730 a.d., and Count Roger, the Norman, 
captured it in 1100 a.d. It then passed to Louis IX., to the Count 
of Anjou, and to the Kings of Castile, and then to Charles V., who 
gave it, in 1530, to the Knights Hospitallers of St John of Jerusalem. 
On 1 8th May 1565 the Turks attacked St Elmo, St Angelo, and 



xlvi SUEZ CANAL India 

Sanglea, but the siege was raised on the 8th of September (see Major 
Whitworth Porter’s History of the Knights of Malta^ Longmans 
1858). The Knights had their own mint, fleet, and army, and 
accredited ambassadors to foreign Courts. In the archives are letters 
from Henry VIIL, Charles II., and Anne, addressed to them as 
Princes. On the 7th of September 1792 the French Directory com- 
manded the Order to be annulled, and seized all its French posses- 
sions. On the 7th of June 1798 Bonaparte arrived with a fleet of 18 
ships of the line, 18 frigates, and 600 transports, and Malta was 
surrendered. A tree of liberty was planted before the Palace, the 
decorations of the knights were burned, and the churches, palaces, 
and charitable houses at Valetta and Citta Vecchia were pillaged. 
On the 2nd of September 1798 a general revolt took place, and 
IsTelson blockaded Valetta ; and on the 5th of September 1800 their 
commander, General Vaubois, surrendered. 

EG7PT, PORT SAID, AND THE SUEZ CANAL.— The land about 
Port Said is so low that the approach to the harbour would be 
difficult were it not for a lighthouse, 184 ft. high above sea-level, built 
of concrete, which stands a short distance inland to the right of the 
harbour, close to the W. mole, and shows an electric light flashing every 
10 seconds and visible 20 m. off. The harbour is formed by twm 
converging breakwaters, 1530 yds. apart at the shore end and 
540 yds. apart at the entrance ; they are built of concrete. The 
Western breakwater is at present 3000 yds. long ( 540 yds. thereof do 
not show above the water-line) ; but extension works are in progress, 
and within a few years the total length will be 5450 yds. The 
Eastern breakwater is now 2600 yds. long. The depth of water 
at the entrance exceeds 33 ft. Near the S. end of the West jetty 
is a bold statue of the illustrious founder, Ferdinand de Lesseps, 
with the motto “Aperire terram gentibus.” Port Said town is 
modern, and since 1890 it has been much improved, and is now a 
very important coaling-station. The population is 50,000, of which 
10,000 are Europeans (census of [907). The Canal Company’s offices 
form a conspicuous pile of buildings on the embankment that separates 
the Dock du Commerce from the Dock de I’Arsenal. Opposite the 
anchorage on the Marina is the French pilots’ office, where the 
draught, breadth, length, and tonnage of each ship entering the canal 
s noted. The wooden plan of the canal, formerly used to indicate, 
by pegs and flags, the passage of every vessel, has been superseded 
by diagrams, which show the position of each ship and of the whole 
traffic in the canal. Express trains leave Port Said thrice daily for 
Ismailia, Suez, and Cairo, taking 4^ to 5 hrs. 10 mins, to Cairo. The 
principal hotels at Port Said are the Eastern Exchange, Savoy, 
Continental, and Metropole. The P. & 0 . and British India 



Introd. 


SUEZ CANAL 


xlvii 


Companies^ Agent at Port Said is Mr W. Broatch, at the offices of 
the English Coaling Company Limited. Messrs Cook and the Anglo- 
American Nile Company and the principal Agents in India have 
representatives at Port Said. On the high ground in the immediate 
neighbourhood of Ismailia there exists a fine hospital (Hopital 
Saint- Vincent de Paul) built by the Canal Company. 

The Canal, ^ formally opened in November 1869, is about 100 
statute m., or 86 nautical m , in length. The distance between 
Port Said and Ismaiha by the Canal is 49 statute m., or 42 
nautical m. As far as Ismailia it runs due N. and S. ; it then 
bends to the E. for about 35 m., and is again almost straight for the 
last 20 m. 

The following are the dimensions of the Canal, which are constantly 
being increased : — 

Width at the water-line . . . . 310 ft. minimuin 

on the floor of the Canal, at a depth of 

33 ft. . . . . . . 14^ ft. ,, 

Uepth (dredging in progress up to 36 ft. > . Ji ft. ,, 

Every few miles there is a gare, or station, and a siding with 
signal posts, by which the traffic is regulated according to the block 
system. Every year the navigation is rendered easier by the con- 
struction of additional sidings, and by traffic at night by electric 
light ; the average duration of transit in 1916 was 19 hrs. 12 min. The 
maximum speed authorised is 5^ nautical m. an hour, except in the 
large Bitter Lakes, where ships may go full speed. 

The number of passages through the Canal in 1916 was 3110, 
with a net tonnage of 12,325,347 tons; of this number 79.4 per 
cent, were British. The Suez Canal tonnage, in 1915 and 1916, of 
Germany and Austria, was 7 tiL The percentages of total and 
British tonnage passed through the Canal m 1916 by the P. & O. 
and British India Companies were 12.1 and 15.2 respectively. 
The rate of tonnage dues for laden passenger and cargo ships rvas 
reduced to 6 frs. 75 cm. in 1912, and further reduced to 6 frs. 
25 cm. from ist January 1913 ; in 1916 it was 7 frs. 25 cm. per net 
ton (being the measurement ton ot 100 cubic ft). Ships in 
ballast are allowed a reduction of 2 frs. 50 cm. on the full transit rate. 
On passengers transit dues are charged at the rate of lo frs. for 
each person above 12 years of age and 5 frs. for each between 3 
and 12. The gross transit receipts earned in 1916 were 76,119,861 
frs. (^3,030,600). As improvements have been from time to time 

^ For a detailed History of the Canal, see Handbook of ddgypt, John 
Murray. 



xlviii ISMAILIA India 

introduced, the average tonnage of ships passing through the Canal 
has increased thus : — 

Gross tonnage. Net tonnage 

In 1870 . . ■ i34Stons 898 tons. 

In 1916 . . • 5432 tons 3963 tons. 

The number of passengers carried through the Canal in 1916 was 
283,030, of whom 235,441 were classed as military. The share capital 
of the Canal Company is 200,000,000 frs. (^8,000,000). The cost of 
the Canal has been—up to 31st December 1869, 369,000,000 frs. 

I 4 j 76 o,ooo) ; up to 3i5t December 1916 (including all improvement 
works), 700,000,000 frs. {£27,777^700). Owing to considerable reduc- 
tion of traffic through the War, transit rates were raised to 6.75 frs. 
from 1st April 1916; 7.25 from 5th October 1916', 7.75 from ist 
January 1917 ; 8.50 from ist July 1917. The Canal route saves about 
two-fifths of the length of the route by the Cape of Good Hope from 
the principal ports of Europe to Bombay, and about one quarter of 
the route to China. 

' On the W. of the Canal, as far as A1 Kantara (the Bridge)— that 
is, for about one-fourth of the way — there is a broad expanse of water, 
called Lake Manzala, and for the rest of the distance to the W. and 
the whole distance to the E., a sandy desert, on which foxes, jackals, 
hyenas, wander at night. 20 m. from Port Said the old Peiusiac 
branch of the Nile is crossed, and 8 m. to the E. are the ruins of 
the ancient city of Pelusium. At A1 Kantara, 27 m. from Suez, the 
Canal intersects the caravan-track between Egypt and Syria, and 
is crossed by a flying bridge. 10 m. to the W. is Tel Dafana, 
the site of Daphne, the Taphnes of Judith, i, 9. At 2 m. S. 
of A1 Kantara the Canal enters the Lake Balia, and after 12 m. 
reaches the promontory A1 Fardana, which it cuts through. 
Thence, after 4? m., it reaches A1 Grisr, the highest ground in 
the isthmus, 65 ft. above sea-level. There was a great camp here 
when the works were in progress, and a staircase of 100 steps led 
down to the Canal. Beyond this, near the entrance to Lake Timsa, 
just half-way between Port Said and Suez, a small channel joins the 
maritime Canal and the Fresh-Water Canal. The difference of level 
is 17 ft., which is overcome by two locks. A steam-launch comes to 
meet steamers in the lake, and land passengers for 

ISMAILIA, population 4000, which once had much of the import- 
ance and traffic that formerly belonged to Suez, as the mails and 
passengers for Egypt were landed here — Hotel Vittoria, Hotel des 
Voyageurs ; but is likely to decline, owing to the opening of the 
railway to Port Said. From the landing-place a broad road lined 



^ntrod. 


ISxMAlLIA— SUEZ 


xh\ 


vith trees traverses the town from E. to W. In the W. quarter are 
he station, the landing-quays of the Fresh -Water Canal, and large 
blocks of warehouses, and beyond them the Arab village. In the E. 
3art are the houses of the employ h, the residence of the Khedive, 
,vhich was used as a military hospital during the English occupation 
Df Ismailia in 1882, and the works by which water is pumped from 
:he Fresh-Water Can^l to Port Said. 

The course of the Canal through Lake Timsa, or Bahr al Timsa, 
‘ The Lake of the Crocodile,” to which the Red Sea is believed to 
lave formerly extended, is about 2^ m., and is marked by buoys. 
A.fter 4 m. the Canal reaches the higher ground of Tussum, where 
the level of the desert is 20 ft. above the sea, and here the first work- 
ing encampment in the S. half of the isthmus was formed in 1859. 
3 m. to the S. is Serapeum, where the level is from 15 to 25 ft. 
above the sea, so called fi*om some remains of a temple of Serapis, 
lying 4 m. to the W. m. from this the Canal enters the Bitter 
Lakes, where the course is again buoyed. These lakes are the 
ancient Gulf of Herasopolis, and some authorities hold that the passage 
of the Israelites was through this. At the N. and S. ends of the 
principal lake is an iron lighthouse 65 ft. high, on a solid masonry 
base. After 86 m. from Port Said the deep cutting of Shaluf is 
reached, in which is a band of sandstone, with layers of limestone 
and conglomerate, in which fossil remains of the shark, hippopotamus, 
tortoise, and whale, have been found. From this to the Suez mouth 
of the Canal is 12^ m. 

All the way from Ismailia the banks are fringed with vegetation, 
and the plain on either side is dotted wiih bushes. There is a little 
fishing in the Canal for those who like the amusement, and at Suez 
there is a great variety of fish. 

SUEZ. — The chief historical interest of Suez is derived from its 
having been long supposed to be the spot near which the Israelites 
crossed the Red Sea under the guidance of Moses and where the 
army was drowned, but modern criticism tends to place 
the scene farther N. In the early years of the i8th century Suez was 
little better than a small fishing-village, galvanised now and then into 
commercial life by the passage of caravans going to and fro between 
Asia and Egypt. But in 1837, owing to the exertions of Lieutenant 
Thomas Waghorn (1800-1850), the route through Egypt was adopted 
for the transit of the Indian mail, and in 1840 the P. & O, Company 
began running a line of steamers regularly between India and Suez. 
This was followed in 1837 by the completion of a railway line from 
Cairo (since removed), and Suez soon began to increase in size and 
importance. It sulfered, however, from the want of fresh water, until 
the completion (1863) of the Fresh- Water Canal to Suez brought an 

d 



1 


THE WELLS OF MOSES 


India 


abundance of Nile water to the town ; and the various works in 
connection with the Suez Canal, the new quays, the docks, etc., 
raised the population to 15,000. With the completion of the Canal 
the activity of the town decreased, and since the transfer of the mails 
from it the place has been almost deserted, and the tine quays 
and warehouses are unused, as steamers now usually anchor in the 
Roads. There is a railway line to Ismailia and so to Cairo and 
Port Said. 

The Old Town itself offers few points of interest. To the N. of 
the town are the storehouses of the P. & O. Company, the lock which 
terminates the Fresh -Water Canal, and the English Hospital ; and 
on the heights above is the chalet of the Khedive, from which theie 
is a magnificent view. In the foreground is the town, the harboiu, 
the roadstead, and the mouth of the Suez Canal ; to the right, the 
range of Gebel Attaka, a most striking and beautiful object, with 
its black-violet heights hemming in the Red Sea. Away to the 
left, though considerably farther S., are the rosy peaks of the 
Mount Sinai range ; and between the two, the deep blue of the 
gulf. 

EXCURSION TO WELLS OF MOSES.— By those landing for Egypt 
at Suez a pleasant excursion may be made to the Wells or 
Fountains of Moses, Ain Musa, it will occupy, according to 
the route taken and the time spent at the place, from half a da\ 
'to a day. The shortest way is to take a sailing-boat, or one of 
the small steamers that ply between the town and the harbour, a^ 
far as the jetty, which has been built out into the sea to communi- 
cate with the new Quarantine station lately established on the shore 
of the gulf for the reception of the pilgrims on their return from Mecca- 
From this point to Ain Musa the distance is not much over a mile • if 
donkeys are required between the jetty and the Wells, they must 
be sent from Suez. The other plan is to cross over in a boat to 
the old Quarantine jetty, about ^ m. from the town, either taking 
donkeys in the boat or sending them on previously, and then to cross 
the Suez Canal by the ferry used for the passage of caravans between 
Arabia and Egypt, and ride along the desert to the Weils. Or the 
boat may be taken down to the entrance to the Canal, and then up 
it a short w^ay to the usual starting-point for the Wells. Either of 
these routes will take from three to four hours. The sums to be paid 
for boats and donkeys had better be strictly agreed upon beforehand 
Visitors who intend spending the day at Ain Musa should take food 
with them. This excursion may be combined with a visit to the docks 
by landing there on returning. ’ 

The “ Wells” are a sort of oasis, formed by a collection of springs 
surrounded with tamarisk bushes and palm-trees. Since it has 



THE RED SEA 


li 


rod. 

‘rome, as Dean Stanley calls it, “the Richmond of Suez,” — a regular 
.nicking place for the inhabitants of that town — some Arabs and 
iropeans have regularly settled in it, and there are now a few 
"uses, and gardens with fruit-trees and vegetables. The water from 
2 springs has a brackish taste. Most of them are simply holes dug 
the soil, which is here composed of earth, sand, and clay ; but one 
built up of massive masonry of great age. Though not mentioned 
the Bible, its position has always caused it to be associated with 
le passage of the Red Sea by the Israelites, and tradition has fixed 
pon it as the spot where Moses and Miriam and the Children of 
5rael sang their song of triumph. 

the Red Sea — a fresh breeze from the N. generally prevails for 
.vo-thirds of the voyage down the Red Sea, and is during the winter 
months succeeded by an equally strong wind from the S. for the rest 
f the way. During the summer the wind from the N. blows through- 
>ut the sea, but is light in the southern half, and the heat is great. 
The Sinaitic Range is the first remarkable land viewed to the E,, 
)Ut Sinai itself, 37 geographical m. distant, can be seen only for a few 
ninutes. 

The Red Sea extends from the head of the Gulf of Suez to the 
Itrait of Bab-el-Mandeb, about 1300 m., and its greatest width is 
ibout 200 m. At Ras Muhammad it is split by the peninsula of 
hnai into two parts — one the Gulf of Suez, about 150 m. long, 
md from 10 to 18 m. wide, and the other the Gulf of Akaba, about 
• oo m. long, and from 5 to 10 m. wide 

Wherever seen from the sea the shores of the Red Sea present 
in appearance of absolute sterility. A broad, sandy plain slopes 
nappreciably to the foot of the mountains, which are in most parts 
1 considerable distance inland. The ordinary mail-steamer's track, 
.'ever, lies down the centre of the sea, and little more than 
the summits of the distant bare and arid mountains will be 
seen. 

Throughout the Red Sea enormous coral reefs run along the coasts 
in broken lines parallel to the shores, but not connected with them. 
They usually rise out of deep water to within a few feet of the surface. 
A navigable channel, from 2 to 3 m. wide, extends between them and 
the E. coast, and a narrower one on the W. coast. The whole sea is 
in course of upheaval. The former seaport of Adulis, in Annesley 
Bay, near Massowa, is now 4 m. inland. 

The tides are very uncertain. At Suez, where they are 
most regular, they rise from 7 ft at spring to 4 ft at neap 
tides. 

During the hottest months — -July to September — the prevalence 
of northerly winds drives the water out of the Red Sea. The S.W. 



lii PORT SUDAN — SUAKIN— JIDDAH India 

'monsoon is then blowing in the Indian Ocean, and the general level 
of the Red Sea is from 2 to 3 ft. lower than during the cooler 
months, when the N.E. monsoon forces water into the Gulf of Aden 
and thence through the Strait of Bab-elAIandeb. 

xAfter leaving Suez the lighthouses seen are Zafarana and Ras 
Gharib, both on the W. coast before Tor is reached. Then follows 
the light on Ashrafi, just inside the mouth of the Gulf of Suez, and 
that on Shadwan, just S. of it. The light on The Brothers is nearly 
due E. of Kosseir. The Daedalus Reef, small and dangerous, lies 
in mid-channel in lat. 253 and was a source of dread before the 
light was erected. The last light is on Perim Island, in the Bab-el- 
Mandeb. 

Below Kosseir (lat. 26 ) — the ancient Leucos Limen (White 
Harbour) and the port of Upper Egypt — and Ras Benas (lat. 24 ), 
near which was the port of Berenice, PoilT SUDAN, 870 m. S. of 
Suez : a new port, with latest appliances, opened by Lord Cromer 
for the Sudan Government in 1907. It is the headquarters of a 
Province, and possesses a comfortable hotel (expensive), managed by 
the Sudan Government Railways, reached from the quayside by 
five minutes’ row across the harbour. There is a fine Government 
Hospital. The Eastern Telegraph Company’s office is one minute’s 
walk from the hotel, and the National Bank of Egypt is in the town. 
The railway journey to Khartoum i^jid Berber) takes about twentv 
hours by express tram. 30 m. S. of Port Sudan lies SUAKIN, in lat. 
iq"", on the coast. It is the centre of native trade between Arabia 
and the Sudan ; from it there is a railway line connecting with the 
line between Port Sudan and Berber. It is the scene of the two 
English expeditions of 1S84, 1885, neither of which led to anv result 
and in 1896 was again held for the Khedive of Egypt by 011/ troops 
which caused a diversion of Osman Digna’s forces, thus enablnn* 
the Khedive’s troops, under Sir Herbert (the late Earl) Kitchener the 
more easily to reconquer the North Sudan. The principal tribes m 
the vicinity are the Hadendowa and Amarar. 

About 120 m. N. of Suakin, on the Arabian coast, is Jiddah 
the seaport of Mecca (Makka), 60 m. E. The population, indudm-r 
surrounding villages, is about 40,000. English and other steamers 
call here frequently. The anchorage is 3^- m. from the shore. 
The town is square in shape, enclosed by a wall with towers at 
intervals, and on the sea-face by two forts. There is a good street 
parallel to the sea. The population is most fanatical, and Europeans 
landing must behave in all respects cautiously. There are three 
entrances to the town on the sea side, but the central one at the 
jetty is the only one in ordinary use. The gate on the S side 
of the town is seldom opened, that on the N. is free to all but 



Inirod. 


HODEIDA — PERIM 


liii 


the E. or Mecca gate, which formerly was strictly reserved for 
Muhammadans, should be approached with caution. The only 
sight of the town is the so-called Tomb of Eve, which lies to the 
N. This is a small mosque in the centre of two long, low 
walls 140 ft. in length, which are supposed to enclose the grave. 
The antiquity of the tradition is unknown. Jiddah was bombarded 
by the British in 1858 in retribution for a massacre of the Consul 
and other British subjects by the population. Over 20,000 pilgrims 
proceed on the Hajj (pilgrimage to Mecca) every year from 
India. 

HODEIDA, also on the E. coast 200 m. N. of the Straits of Bab-el- 
Mandeb, in lat. 14 40' N., has a population of about 33,000. The 
anchorage is 35 m. from the shore. European steamers call weekly 
or oftener. Mocha, which this place has supplanted as a commercial 
port, is 100 m. S. Hodeida has well-built houses and an amply- 
supplied market, and its mosques, with fine domes and minarets, 
give It a handsome appearance. 

The island of Perim occupies the narrowest part of the Strait of 
Bab-el-Mandeb (“the Gate of Tears’’). It is distant lA m. from the 
Arabian coast and 9 to 10 m. from the African. The average width 
is m., the greatest length 3^ m. The formation is purely volcanic, 
and consists of long, low hills surrounding a capacious harbour about 
i-o m. long, 'i- m. in breadth, with a depth of from 4 to 6 fathoms in 
the best anchorages. The highest point of the island is 245 ft. above 
sea-level. All endeavours to find water have failed, and but little is 
procurable from the mainland near. There are water tanks that used 
to be supplied from Aden, but a condensing apparatus is found the 
most convenient means of supply. The British are the only nation 
who have ever permanently occupied Perim. Albuquerque landed 
upon it in 1513, and erected a high cross on an eminence, and called 
it the island of \^cra Critz^ by which name it is shown on old 
Admiralty charts. Afterwards it was occupied by pirates, who m vain 
dug for water. In 1799 the East India Company took possession of 
it, and sent a force from Bombay to hold it and prevent the French 
then in Egypt from passing on to India, where it was feaied they 
would join Tipu Sultan. The lighthouse on the highest point was 
completed in 1861, and since then two others have been built on the 
shore. The garrison, furnished from Aden, occupies a small block- 
house for the protection of the lighthouse and coaling-stations. 
Steamers usually pass to the E. of the island near the Government 
boat harbour. The Western side of the large inner harbour has 
been assigned to the Perim Coal Company, vrho have expended 
^120,000 in making the place one of the most perfect coal- 
ing and salvage stations in the East. The powerful salvage 



liv ADEN India 

steamers are always ready to render assistance to vessels in 
distress. 

Aden, lat. 12 46', long. E. 44' 58', situated on the E. promontory 
of a bay 8 m. long and 4 m. deep, was long held by the Turks, 
who captured the port from the Arabs. Marco Polo, the Venetian, 
visited Aden on his return from his travels in China. He records : 
“And it is a fact that when the Soldan of Babylon went against 
the city of Acre” (in a.d. 1291) “this Soldan of Aden sent to 
his assistance 30,000 horsemen and 40,000 camels, to the great help 
of the Saracens and the grievous injury of the Christians. He did 
this a great deal more for the hate he bears the Christians than 
for any love he bears the Soldan.” This was the Mameluke Sultan of 
Egypt, Malik Ashraf Khalil. On the i8th February 1513 Albuquerque 
sailed from India with twenty ships for the conquest of Aden. In 
the assault on the fortress their ladders broke, and although the 
Portuguese Took “a bulwark which guarded the port with thirty- 
nine great pieces of cannon,” they were obliged to withdraw after 
a four days' siege. The first English vessel visited Aden in 
1619. 

Aden was taken from the Arabs by the British on the 19th of 
January 1839.^ It was attacked by the Abdalis and Fadhlis on the 
nth of November in that year, but they were repulsed with the loss 
of 200 killed and wounded. The united Arab tribes made a second 
attack on the 22nd of May 1840, but failed after losing many men. 
On the 5th of July 1840 a third attack took place, but the assailants, 
Abdalis and Fadhlis, were driven back and lost 300 men. In January 
1846 Saiyad Ismail, after preaching a jihad, or religious w’ar, in Mecca, 
attacked this place, but was easily repulsed. In 1857 ’Ali bin Muhsin. 
Sultan of the Abdalis, gave so much trouble that Brigadier Coghlan, 
Commandant at Aden, was compelled to march against him in 1858, 
when the Arabs were routed with a loss of from thirty to forty men, and 
with no casualties on our side. In December 1865 the Sultan of the 
Fadhli tract, which has a seaboard of 100 m. extending from the 
boundary of the Abdalis, attempted to blockade Aden on the land side, 
but was utterly routed by Lieutenant-Colonel Woolcombe, C.B., at Bir 
Said, 15 m. from the Barrier Gate. A force under Brigadier-General 
Raines, C.B., then marched through the Abgar districts, which are 
the lowlands of this tribe, and destroyed several fortified villages. 
Subsequently, in January 1866, an expedition went from Aden bv 
sea to Shugra, the chief port of the Fadhlis, 65 m. from Aden, and 
destroyed the forts there. Since 1S67 this tribe, which numbers 6700 

1 Aden was the first addition to the Empire in the reign of Queen 
Victoria. 



Infrod. ADEN Iv 

fighting men, have adhered to their engagements. The Abdalis 
inhabit a district 33 in. long and 8 m. broad to the N.N.W. of Aden, 
and number about 8000 souls. Their territory is called Lahej, and 
the capital is Al-Hauta, 21 m. from the Barrier Gate. 

It is under contemplation to construct two short railways from 
Aden to Lahej and Nobat Dakim, and to Sheikh Othman and D’thala. 

Aden is hot, but healthy. The promontory is about 5 m. long and 
3 m. broad, and the highest point on it, the Rock, rises 1700 ft. above 
the sea. The lighthouse on Ras Marshag, the S.E. point, has a fixed 
light visible 20 m. off. The town has a population of 46,000, but 
its trade is slowly decaying. A visit to the bazar, if the stay 
of the steamer will allow of this, will show wild Arabs from the 
interior of Arabian Yaman, Turks, Egyptians, hideous Swahelis 
from the coast of East Africa, untamed, shock -headed Somalis, 
Jews of various sects, inhabitants of India, Parsis, British soldiers, 
Bombay Mahrattas, and Jack-Tars. The Crater used in former days 
to be the fortress of Aden. Now modern science has converted 
“Steamer Point” into a seemingly impregnable position, the penin- 
sula which the “Point” forms to the whole Crater being cut off by 
a fortified line which runs from N. to S. just to the eastward of the 
coal wharfs. The port is visited yearly by more than 1650 steamers, 
with a tonnage of 3,000,000 tons : the value of the sea trade is very 
large, about ^7,000,000 ; the income of the Port Trust is 4-^ lakhs, 
and of the Municipality 2 lakhs. 

Inside the Light Ship the water shallows to 4 fathoms, and a 
large steamer stirs up the mud Avith the keel and action of the 
screw. As soon as the vessel stops, scores of canoes, with one 
or two Somali boys in each, paddle off and surround the steamer, 
shouting, “ Have a dive — have a dive,” and “ Good boy — good 
boy,” all together, with a very strong accent on the first syllable, 
and dive for small coins flung to them. Owing to a number of 
fatalities from sharks, this is prohibited in the S.W. monsoon 
nionths- 

Steamers seldom stop nowadays for more than a few ’hours at 
Aden. Notice is always posted on board as to the desirability or 
not of landing. Transhipment took place, before the War, each 
alternate week in the case of the P. & O. mail steamers to the 
local Aden-Rombay Express mail steamer. 

It takes from twelve to twenty minutes to land at the Post Office 
Pier, which is broad and sheltered. To the left of it are the hotels 
and shops. At a short distance N. of the hotels is a condenser 
belonging to a private proprietor. There are three such condensers 
belonging to Government, and several the property of private 
Companies, and by these and an aqueduct from Sheikh Othman, 



Ivi ADEN— SOCOTRA India 

7 m. beyond the Barrier Gate, Aden is supplied with water. Con- 
densed water costs about Rs,2 per loo gallons. 

The tanks under the Peak are worth a visit, but the distance to 
them is about 5 m. Their restoration was undertaken in 1856, 
and they are capable of holding 8,000,000 gallons of water. The 
ravines which intersect the plateau of the Crater converge into one 
valley, and a very moderate fall of rain suffices to send a considerable 
torrent down it. This water is partly retained in the tanks which 
were made to receive it, and which are so constructed that the over- 
flow of the upper tank falls into a lower, and so on in succession. 
As the annual rainfall at Aden does not exceed 6 or 7 in. Malik al 
Mansur, King of Yaman, at the close of the 15th century built an 
aqueduct to bring the water of the Bir Hamid into Aden (see Playfair’s 
History of Yajnan). 

The Salt Pans on the way to Sheikh Othman are curious. The 
sea-water is pumped into shallow pans cut out of the earth, and 
allowed to evaporate, and the salt which remains is collected. It 
belongs to an Italian company, who pay royalty on every ton of salt 
procured. The Keith-Falconer Medical Mission at Sheikh Othman, 
as well as Steamer Point, was established by the Hon. Ion Keith- 
Falconer, Arabic Professor, Cambridge, who died there on nth May 
1887. His tomb, of fine Carrara marble, is in the military cemetery 
of Aden. The Mission, under the care of the doctors of the Free 
Church of Scotland, is most popular. At Steamer Point there are 
three churches for the troops — Anglican, Scottish, and Roman. In 
the Crater there are two churches. On the 27th November 1911 
H.M. the King Emperor George V., with the Queen Empress, 
landed at Aden, received an address of welcome, and replied to 
it, on his way to India to the Delhi Darbar of 12th December. 

After leaving Aden the only land usually approached by steamers 
bound for India is the island of Socotra,^ which is about 150 m. 
E. of Cape Guardafui, the E. point of the African continent. The 
island is 71 m. long and 22 m. broad. Most of the surface is a table- 
land about 800 ft. above sea-level. The capital is Tamarida, or Hadibu, 
on the N. coast. The population is only 4000, or 4 to the square 
mile. It is politically a British possession subordinate to Aden, 
but administered in its internal affairs by its own chiefs. 

Four days after passing Socotra the mainland will be sighted 
behind Bombay, which lies 6' N. of Aden in lat. 18° 58' above 
the Equator and long. 72° 48' E. of Greenwich. 

1 Known to the Greeks and Romans as the island of Dioscorides. This name 
and that by which the island is now known are (according to the Encycl Brit ) 
usually traced back to a Sanskrit form Dvipa-Sakhadhara, “the island’ abode 



Introd. 


THE PEOPLE OF INDIA 


Ivii 


(3) GENERAL INFORMATION, STATISTICAL, ETHNO- 
LOGICAL, HISTORICAL, ARCHHCOLOGICAL, AND 
MATERIAL 


THE PEOPLE OF INDIA 

The census of 1911 (the latest) gave the population of British India 
and Burma as follows 



Area in 

Square Mile^ 

Population. 

; British Territory .... 

1,093.074 

244,267,542 , 

i Native States and Agencies . , | 

1 1 

709,583 

70,888,854 ! 

India, Total . | 

1 1 

1,802,657 

3 iS.i 56>396 i 

1 


Of this total of 315,000,000 about 123,000 (in 1901 the number was 
97,000) are British-born, df whom nearly two-thirds are soldiers. The 
army of British India comprised in 1915-16 


British Troops (including Othcers) . . 74,776 

Indian do. do. . . . 163,055 


In addition, there were, before the War, Indian Reserves, 36,000 ; 
Imperial Service Troops, furnished by Native States, 1 8,000; and 
European and Anglo-Indian Volunteers, 36,000 — making altogether 
90,000 additional men trained by British officers. These numbers 
have varied under War conditions. The Native States had also semi- 
trained troops to the number of 90,000, which are not- included in 
this list. 

The original races in India consisted of (i) the Aborigines, or 
non-Aryans, and (2) the pure Aryans, or twice-born castes. The 
bulk of the population is now regarded as consisting of Hindus, the 
descendants of the Aryans, and non-Aryans ; the great majority of 
the Muhammadans are sprung from converts of the same stock. 

The census of 1911 gave the following religious statistics : — 


Hindus (including 
Brahmas 5504, 
Aryas 243,445) . 

Animistic 
Muhammadans . 
Buddhists 
Christians . 


217,586,892 

10,295,168 

66,647,299 

10,721,453 

3,876.203 


Sikhs 

Jains 

Parsis 

Jews 

Minor Religions and 
Religions not returned 


3,014.466 

1,248,182 

100,096 

20,980 

37,101 



Iviii 


THE MUHAMMADANS 


India 


THE MUHAMMADANS 

Muhammad (“ the praised/' from hamd, praise) was born at Mecca 
(Makka) on the 29th August 570 a.d. in the Koreish (Quraish) ruling 
tribe. His father, Abdulla, was a merchant, son of Abdul Muttalib, 
the patriarch of the House of Hashim ; his mothers name was Amina. 
His father died before his birth, his mother when he was barely five 
years old. He remained three years in charge of his grandfather, 
and on the latter’s death passed to the care of bis uncle, Abu Talib. 
When twenty-five years old he became manager or agent to a rich 
widow, named Khadija, who, although fifteen years his senior, offered 
him marriage. By her he had sons, who all died in infancy, and four 
daughters, of whom three survived, the youngest, Fatima, being 
married to Ali, the son of Abu Talib ; from her are descended the 
nobility of Islam, the Saiyads and Sharifs. 

At the age of forty Muhammad claimed to have received the first 
divine communication m the solitude of the mountain Hira, near 
Mecca, where the call came to him, and the angel Gabriel commanded 
him to preach the new religion. The Meccans persecuted him and 
his followers for his preachings ; his wife and uncle died ; and he 
became poverty - stricken. Threatened with death, Muhammad, 
accompanied by Abu Bakr, left Mecca on the i6th July 622. Escap- 
ing from the Koreish, they reached the rival city, Yathreb, some 
270 m. to the N., where he was accepted as a Prophet. The city 
was henceforth called the city of the Prophet — Medinat-un-Nabi, or, 
shortly, Medina. The Meccans pursued him and the Medinists with 
hostility, and he repelled their attacks. In the year 630 he, with io,oct) 
men, conquered Mecca. Returning to r^Iedina, he died on the 8th of 
fune 632, and was there buried. 

The chief tenet of the Muhammadan religion is Islam, which is 
generally held to mean, resignation, submission to God ; but some 
describe it as striving after. righteousness.” A Muslim, or Mussal- 
man, is one who professes Islam. In its dogmatical form it is Imam 
(faith), in its practical Din (religion). The fundamental principle is, 
‘‘There is no God but God ; and Muhammad is the Prophet of God 
(La illaha ilia ’llah Muhammadan Rasulu ’llah). This is the Kalima, 
or creed, which is to be recited. There are also four principal duties : 
(i) Daily prayers (which should be said five times a day— at daybreak, 
noon, afternoon, sunset, nightfall) ; (2) the giving of alms fin certain 
proportions of property, to certain classes of persons) ; (3) the fast of 
Ramazan (from dawn to sunset for a month, from the appearance of 
the new moon) ; (4) ^ pilgrimage (Hajj, Hajji), once in a lifetime, to 
the ancient shrine of the Kaaba, at Mecca. In the Koran (which 
embodies the teachings and precepts of Muhammad, and is believed 



Tfifrod. THE MUHAMMADANS lix 

to have been sent down by God to the seventh or lowest heaven and 
then revealed from time to time to Muhammad by the angel Gabriel) 
a holy war or jihad is enjoined as a religious duty ; but the 
Muhammadan subjects of a government, under which the practices of 
the Muhammadan religion are freely peimitted, are bound to obey 
the government. The Muhammadans believe in resurrection, heaven, 
and hell. The meaning of the description of a future existence as 
given in the Koran is much disputed. On the one hand large masses 
of Muslims accept the statements of the Koran as to the sensuous 
delights of Paradise in their literal sense : on the other hand, they are 
regarded as word-paintings used in a figurative sense. In hell all who 
deny the unity of God will be tortured eternally. The idea of the 
exclusion of women from Paradise is at variance with the whole tenor 
of the Koran, and is contradicted by various passages. Muhammad 
enjoined care in ablution of the hands, mouth, and nose before eating 
or praying. The Koran expressly forbids the use of wine, including 
all inebriating liquors and any intoxicants. It forbids also the eating 
of the flesh of swine ; and no animal is lawful food imless it be 
slaughtered by cutting the throat. Usury and games of chance 
are prohibited, and the laws against idolatry are very stringent. A 
Muslim is allow^ed to marry one, two, three, or four wives, provided, it 
said, he can deal wdth all of them wnth equity ; if not, he is limited to 
one. Me can also cohabit with female slaves obtained by purchase or 
made captiv^es in Avar Aalled “those whom your right hand hath 
.icquired”) in addition to the lawful wives. An absolute divorce 
consists of the mere repetition of the words, “ Thou art divorced ” three 
times. Slavery is said to have been limited to those who were taken 
in lawful warfare, and under certain circumstances they were emanci- 
pated. Besides the women above-mentioned, a man must not look 
upon the face of any other woman except a near relative. There is no 
priesthood in Islam, every man is his own priest and pleads for him- 
self for forgiveness and mercy. Essentially a democratic creed, it 
recognises no distinction of race or colour among its followers. Hope 
and fear, rewaid and punishment, w’ith a belief in predestination, form 
the system of faith. It is contrary to Islam to make any figure 
or representation of anything living. 

There are two main divisions of Muhammadans — sometimes called 
Sects, sometimes Churches. The chief point of difference between 
them is the question of the title to the spiritual and temporal headship 
of Islam. The Sunnis advocate the principle of election, and 
recognise Abu Bakr, Omar, and Othman as the first three Khalifas 
Khalifa, Caliph — Vicegerent), and Ali as the fourth ; the Shias 
adhere to apostolical descent by appointment and succession, and 
regard Ali as the first Khalifa. Out of the 66,647,299 Muhammadans 



lx 


THE MUHAMMADANS 


India 


in India (by the census of 1911) five-sevenths are Sunnis; they and 
almost all the Muhammadans in other nations acknowledge the 
spiritual headship of the Sultan of Turkey. They are again divided 
into four principal “persuasions” — the Hanafi, Shafei, Maliki, and 
Hanbali — so called after their founders. Hanafiism is generally 
prevalent in India and Arabia. The Shias are two-sevenths of the 
Indian Muhammadans. Shia-ism is the State religion of Persia. 
Of its several sub-sects, the Asna-aasharia is the principal, meaning 
that it recognises the spiritual headship of the twelve Apostles of the 
House of Muhammad. In the i6th century Sultan Salim, the 
great Osmanli conqueror, obtained the Caliphate from the last Caliph 
at Cairo ; since then the Osmanli rulers of Turkey have assumed the 
title of Caliph, and have been recognised as their spiritual head, 
Shaikh-ul-Islam^ by the bulk of the Sunnis in India and elsewhere. 

Eras. — The Muhammadan era of the Hijra takes its name from 
the “departure” of Muhammad from Mecca, commencing with the 


date of Friday, the i6th 

of July 622 A.D., ordered by 

the Khalifa 

Omar to be used as their era by Muhammadans. Their 
of twelve lunar months, as follows 

year consists 

Muharram 

30 days 

Rajab 

30 days 

Safar .... 

29 ,, 

Sh’aban 

29 ,, 

Rabi ul awal 

30 

Ramazan 

30 ,, 

Rabi us-sani . 

29 ,. 

Shawwal 

29 ,3 

Jumada ul awal 

30 ,, 

Zilkada 

30 „ 

Jumada us-sani 

29 ,, J Zil Hijja 
^354 days. 

29 „ 


Their year, therefore, is 1 1 days short of the solar year, and their 
New Year’s Day is every year ii days earlier than in the preceding 
year. In every 30 years the month Zil Hijja is made to consist ii 
times of 30 days instead of 29, which accounts for the 9 hours in the 
lunar year, which is thus 354 days, 9 hours. To bring the Hijra year 
into accordance with the Christian year, express the former in years 
and decimals of a year, multiply by .970225, add 621.54, and the 
total will correspond exactly to the Christian year. Or to effect the 
same correspondence roughly, deduct 3 per cent, from the Hijra year 
add 621.54, and the result will be the period of the Christian vear 
when the Muhammadan year begins. The Muhammadan year 1329 
Hijra commenced on the 2nd January 1911, and the following two 
years Hijra on the 22nd December 1911 and nth December 1912 • 
1332 Hijra commenced on 30th November 1913, and 1333 Hijra on 
19th November 1914: the year 1336 a.h. commenced on i8th 
October 1917. 

The Tarikh I lain or Era af A kbar, and the Fasti or Harvest Era, 
These eras begin from the commencement of Akbars reign on 
Friday, the 5th of Rabi us-sani, 963 a.h. ^ 19th of February 1556 a.d. 



Inirod. 


MUHAMMADAN FESTIVALS 


Ixi 


Muhammadan Festivals 

Bakar (Cow) Id-ul-uzha^ or uz-zoha, or Id 4 -kurban (sacrifice), 
IS held on the loth of Zil Hijja in memory of Abraham’s offering of 
Ishmael, which is the version of the Koran. Camels, cows, sheep, 
goats, kids, or Iambs, are sacrificed. 

Muharram (The Sacred^), is a period of mourning (the Shias fast 
on some of the days) m remembrance of the death of Husain, the son 
of Ali by Fatima, the daughter of Aluhammad. Hasan, eldest son of 
All, was poisoned at the instigation of the future Khalif Yezid in 49 A.H., 
and Husain was murdered at Karbala on the loth of Muharram, 
61 ah. — 9th October 680 a.d. The fast begins on the ist of 
Muharram and lasts ten days. Muslims of the Shia persuasion 
assemble in the T’aziya Khana, or house of mourning. On the 
night of the 7th an image of Burak, the animal (vehicle) on which 
Muhammad is popularly supposed to have ascended to heaven, is 
carried in procession, and on the loth Tabuts“ or Taziyas (biers). These 
are thrown into the sea, or other water, and in the absence of water 
are buried in the earth. The mourners move in a circle, beating 
their breasts with cries of “ Ya ! Hasan ! Ya Husain ! ” or Ya Ali I ” 
At this time fanatical spirit is apt to run high, and serious disturbances 
sometimes take place (see “ Hobson-Jobson” in the Glossary of 
A ?tglo- Indian Words and Phrases^ Yule and Burnell, p. xxxvii). 

Akhiri-Chahar Shamba^ held on the last Wednesday of Safar, 
when Muhammad recovered a little in his last illness and bathed for 
the last time. It is proper to write out seven blessings, wash off the 
ink and drink it, as also to bathe and repeat prayers. 

Bara Wafdt (the great death), held on the 13th of Rabi ul awal 
in memory of Muhammad’s death, 1 1 A.H. 

Shab-i-bardt (night of allotment), held on the i6th of Sh’aban, 
when it is supposed that human deeds are measured and their 
me^ds allotted : only observed in India ; celebrated with fireworks. 
The Koran ought to be read all night, and the next day a fast should 
be observed. 

RamazaiP^ the month of fasting of the Muhammadans. The 
night of the 27th is called Lailat-ul-Kadr, ‘‘night of power,” because 
the Koran came down from heaven on that night. 

^Idu d-fitr^ the festival when the fast of the Ramazan is broken. 
The evening is spent in rejoicings. 

^ The name is derived Irom the corresponding old Arabic month, m which it 
was unholy to wage war. 

2 The shape of this is intended to simulate the tomb of All at Karbala. 

The name is derived from ramaz, burning, this month being the middle 
oummer month in the first Muhammadan year. 



MUHAMMADAN RULE IN INDIA 


India 


Ixii 


Muhammadan Rule in India 

The first connection of the Muhammadans with India in the 7th and 
8th centuries was naturally by the old sea route from the continent of 
Asia, and from the seat of power of the Khalifat at Bagdad. When 
this power grew weak, first the Seljuk kingdom broke away from it 
on the E., and then the kingdoms of Ghazni and Ghor in the Afghan 
mountains split off in turn from that. Early in the nth century 
the N. of India, as far as Benares, Gujarat, and Kathiawar, was 
subjected to repeated invasions by the famous Mahmud of Ghazni ; 
and at the close of the I2th century the Prince of Ghor and his 
lieutenants effected the permanent conquest and occupation of that 
part of the country. For three hundred years the Slave dynasty and 
the other dynasties, chiefly Pathan, which succeeded it, ruled at 
Delhi and extended their authority to Bengal and Gujarat, and even 
to the Deccan ; but the repeated invasions of the Mughals on the 
N., and probably the failure of robust recruits from the Afghan 
mountains, led to the gradual weakening of the central power, which 
was finally shaken to its very foundations by the invasion of Timur at 
the end of the 14th century (p. 275) ; and when, a century later, Babar 
and his Mughals conquered India, the Imperial authority had been 
reduced to very narrow limits. Meanwhile, one Muhammadan 
dynasty, an offshoot of the Imperial line, had been established at 
Gaur, in the Malda district in Bengal fp. 416), at an early date, and 
another, known as the Bahmani, rather later at Gulbarga, in the 
Deccan (p. 474), when the power of Delhi recoiled from there, and 
at the close of the 14th century i^Iuhammadan Governors had also 
become independent in Gujarat (p. 172) and Malwa (pp. 124-5), and 
Jaunpur (p. 377) ; and thus, though when Babar became Emperor 
the Delhi power was being threatened by the revived Hindu forces 
of Rajputana, N. India generally was under Muhammadan rulg at 
that time. It was then, too, that the Muhammadan kingdoms of 
Ahmadnagar, Bijapur, and Golconda (pp. 473, 490, and 511) were 
founded on the fail of the Bahmani dynasty ; and when these 
kingdoms crushed the only great Hindu power in S. India, that of 
Vijayanagar fp. 516), at the Battle of Talikota in 1565 a.d., about the 
time, be it remembered, when Spain attained its greatest power, 
it looked as if Muhammadan sway would be permanently extended 
to Cape Comorin, 

These kingdoms, however, exhausted their energies in internal 
and internecine quarrels ; and when, after subduing the other States 
of India, the Mughal Emperors turned to them, they fell one by one, 
but in their fall, and through the consequences of it, dragged down the 



Inirod^ DATES OF Muhammadan history Ixiii 

victor to ruin also. While it lasted, the Mughal dynasty was dis- 
tinguished by extraordinary outward splendour, which extorted the 
title of ‘‘the Great Mughal,” or Mogul, from European travellers; 
and no dynasty, perhaps, since the world began, ever produced six 
Princes so great, take them all in all, as Babar, Humayun, Akbar, 
Jahangir, Shah Jahan, and Aurangzeb, whose united reigns covered 
a period of nearly two hundred years, 1526-1707. But as its splendour 
was unparalleled, so were the suddenness and completeness of the fall 
of the dynasty ; and within sixty years of the death of Aurangzeb the 
Mahrattas were temporarily masters of Delhi, which was simply rent 
to death by the invasions of the Persian Nadir Shah and the Afghan 
Ahmad Shah in 1739 and 1757. It is almost impossible to realise 
that these invasions, which can be paralleled only by those of Atiila 
and Timur, took place at a time when Europe was entering on the 
modern phase in which we still live, and N. America was about to 
become a great separate power. 

Between these two dates the kingdoms of Oudh and Hyderabad 
had become independent of the central Delhi Power ; if the Great 
Governors of the Panjab did not become so also, this was due simply 
to their position between the invaders and the capital, and to the 
presence of the Sikhs in the province. Neither of the new Muham- 
madan kingdoms, however, possessed any real vital power ; and both 
of them, and Ifengal, would have inevitably fallen a prey to the 
Mahrattas, after their extraordinary recovery from the carnage of 
Panipat in 1761, but for the intervention of British power. As it was, 
when Delhi was taken from the Mahrattas in 1S03 they practically 
dominated India from the Panjab to Hyderabad and Mysore, and 
from Gujarat to Orissa. The resumption of Oudh in 1856 on account 
of the reckless misgovernment of its rulers, and the conquests of the 
Mysore dynasty of Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan in 1799 ? c>f the 
Amirs of Sind in 1843, have left Hyderabad the sole remaining 
Aluhammadan power of first-class importance in India, to which can 
be added as instances of Muhammadan States of recent origin — 
Khairpur, in Sind (p. 359); Junagadh, in Kathiawar (p. 205) ; Bahawal- 
pur, in the Panjab (p. 357), and Rampur in Rohilkhand. 


Some MuhaxMmadan Dates affecting India 


A.D. 

Birth of Muhammad 57 ° 

His departure from Mecca to Medina. The Hijra (Hegira) eia i6th July 622 
Conquest of Mecca 630 

His death 8th June 632 

Arab invasions of Sind ....•••• 637-828 

Arabs under Muhammad Kasim conquered Sind . . . Tii 



1x1 V OATES OF MUHAMMADAN HISTORY India 

A.D. 

Mahmud of Ghazni defeated the Rajputs at Peshawar . . . looi 

Mahmud captured Somnath in Gujarat, and carried oft the temple 

gates to Ghazni ......... 1024 

The Afghans of Ghor captured Ghazni . . . - . . 1152 

Muhammad bin Sam, known as Shahabuddin, Ghori, invaded the 
Panjab, and his lieutenant, Kutb-ud-din, took Delhi after the 
Battle of Thanesar, and Kanauj the next year .... 1193-94 

Kutb-ud-din (originally a Turki slave) proclaimed himself sovereign 

of India at Delhi ......... 1206 

(i) The Slave-lvings of India, 1206-88. (2) The Khiljis, 1288- 
1321. (3) The House of Tughlak, 1321-1412. (4) The 

Saiyads, 1414-50. (5) The Lodis, 1450-1526. 

Altamsh extended the empire of the Slave dynasty . . . 1211-36 

Altamsh saved India from an invasion by Mugbals under Chcngiz 

Khan. . . ... . . . . - 1217 

Ala-ud-din Khilji conquered Southern India ; defeated several 

Mughal invasions from Central Asia. ..... 1295-1317 

Muhammad Tughlak (Juna Khan) sought to establish a southern 

capital at Deogiri (Daulatabad) ...... 1330-40 

Timur, or Tamerlane, sacked Delhi ...... 1398 

Babar, the Mughal, sixth in descent from Timur, defeated the 

T’athan (Lodi) Sultans of Delhi at the Battle of Pampat . . 1526 

Babar (1482- 1 . ' ^ r , 1 • , at Fatehpur Sikri, near Agra 1527 

The six great ‘ : ..... 1526-1707 

Akbar defeate ■ ^ . . . 5th Nov. 1556 

Akbar conquered the Rajputs, annexed Bengal, Gujarat, Sind, 

Kashmir, and Kandahar . . . . . . . 1567-94 

Death of Akbar at Agra . . . . . . . 1605 

Reign of Jahangir ......... 1605-27 

Reign of Shah Jahan ........ 1627-58 

Reign of Aurangzeb ........ 1658-1707 

Death of Sivaji ......... 1680 

Commencement of the struggle between the Mughal Phnperoi and 

the Mahrattas ......... l688 

Aurangzeb captured Sambaji, the son of the Mahratta chief Sivaji, 

and put him to death ... ..... 1689 

Death of Aurangzeb ; decline of the Mughal power . . . 1 707 

Defeat and persecution of the Sikhs. The Mughalsput their leader, 

Banda, to death with cruel tortures . . . . . 1716 

Oudh practically independent of Delhi ..... 1721 

Hyderabad became independent under Chin Kilich Khan Nizam - 

ul-mulk . . . . . . . . . . 1724 

Kabul severed from the Mughals by Nadir Shah, of Persia . . 173^ 

Nadir Shah, King of Persia, sacked Delhi .... 1739 

The Mahrattas obtained Mahva 17^3 

Five invasions of the Afghan Ahmad Shah Durani, and cession of 

Panjab to him ......... 1747-61 

The Mahrattas obtained Southern Orissa and tribute from Bengal . 1731 

Ahmad Shah Durani sacked Delhi ... ... 1737 

The Mahrattas captured Delhi 1739 

Defeat of the Mahrattas by the Afghans at the Battle of Panipat . 1761 

General Lake captured Delhi iSq3 



Intr»d. 


LIST OF SOVEREIGNS 


Ixv 


List of Sovereigns and Mughal Emperors who reigned 
AT Delhi from 1193 to 1857 a.d. 

The Ghori^ Turkic and Pathafi Kings of Hindustan ‘toko 
reigned at Delhi. 

A.H. J A.D. 

Muhammad bin Sam, Ghori 5^9 1 ^*93 

Kutb-un*din, ist Dynasty of Slave (Turki) Kings . . 602 | 1206 

Aram Shah i 

Shams-ud-din Altamsh ....... 607 | 1211 

Rukn-ud-din Firoz ........ 633 ^1236 

Sultan Raziya ^34 1236 

Balkan 664 1266 

Kaikubad .......... 12S6 

Jalal-ud-din Firoz Shah Khilji, 2nd Dynasty., Pathan . . 6S9 1288 

Ala-ud-din r^Iuhammad ....... 695 

Shahab-iid-din ’Umar ....... 7^5 ^ 3 ^^ 

Kutb-ud-din Mubarak ...... 7^6 1316 

Nasir-ud-din Khusru . . . . . ■ . • 7^0 1321 

Ghias-ud-din Tughlaic, 3/ ^2^ Pathan . . . 720 1321 

Muhammad bin Tughlak ....... 725 1325 

Firoz Shah Tughlak . . . . • . » 752 * 35 ^ 

Muhammad Shah . . . . . . • ■ 79^ ^ 39 ® 

Khizr Khan Saiyad, 4^^ Dynasty, Saiyad . . . . Si 7 1414 

Mubarak Shah II S24 1421 

Muhammad Shah ........ ^37 ^433 

'Alam Shah ..... ... 847 1443 

Bahlol Lodi, ^th Dynasty, Pathan 855 1450 

Sikandar Lodi ......... 894 1488 

Ibrahim Lodi ......... 923 1518 

Babar 932 1520 

Humayun ^ . ....... 937 ^ 53 ^^ 

Akbar 963 1556 

Jahangir .... ...... 1014 1605 

Shahjahan I 037 1627 

Aurangzeb ......... 1068 1658 

Bahadur Shah . . . . • • . ^II 9 ^ 7<^7 

JahandarShah ^124 1713 

Farrukhsiyar ......... ii2\ 1713 

Muhammad Shah ........ 1 ^ 3 * 

’Ahmad Shah . . . ■ ... . . . 1161 1748 

Alamgirll 1167 1754 

Shah Alam \ . ! ^^73 ^759 

Akbar II . ' 1221 1S06 

Bahadur Shah ' 1253 {joH 


, Saiyad 


A.H. 

' A.D. 

589 

1193 

602 

1206 

! 607 

1210 

607 

I 2 II 

633 

,1236 

634 

1236 

664 

1266 

686 

I2S6 

6S9 

1288 

695 

1296 

715 

1316 

716 I 

1316 

720 

1321 

720 

1321 

725 1 

1325 

752 

*351 

792 

1390 

817 

1414 

824 

1421 

837 

1433 

847 

1443 

855 

1450 

894 

! 1488 

923 

1518 

932 

1526 

937 

1530 

963 

1556 

1014 

1605 

1037 

1627 

1068 

1658 

1H9 

1707 

1124 

1713 

1124 

U13 

1131 

1719 

1 161 

1748 

; ^167 

1754 

; 1173 

1759 

' 1221 

1S06 

' 1253 

00 00 

CTi OJ 


THE HINDUS 

In speaking of the religion of the Hindus it is customary to use 
such words as Vedism, Brahmanism, and Hinduism, but these 
names are not recognised by the Hindu orthodoxy. They do not 

^ This reign included the Pathan Interregnum of Sher Shah {1540-45) Salim 
Shah, and other Sur Kings up to 1555. 



ixvi 


THE HINDUS 


India 


connote what is commonly called religion. In this chapter the word 
is used in the sense of a system of worship, etc., which would lead 
to heaven or give man his desires through the medium of a deity. 
Thus various systems flourished and decayed. 

The first form of the Hindu “ religion” was Vedisrn, the worship of 
Nature, as represented in the songs and prayers collectively called 
Veda, and in which the chief gods were the triad Indra (rain), Agni 
(fire), and Surya (sun). Then followed Brahmanism, from brih^ to 
expand, which introduced the idea of a universal spirit, or essence, 
which permeated everything, men, gods, and the visible world being 
merely its manifestations. Prose works, called Brahmanas, were 
added to the Vedas, to explain the sacrifices and the duties of the 
Brahmans, or priests. The oldest of these may have been written 
about looo to 1200 b.c. The code of Manu, which was formulated in 
the 3rd century of the Christian era,^ laid down the rules of 
domestic conduct and ceremony. It divided Hindus into four Varnas^ 
or classes 2 — first, the Brahmans ; second, the warriors, called 
Kshatriyas ; and third, the agriculturists and traders, called Vaisyas. 
(All these, being of Aryan descent, were honoured by the name 
“twice born”). Fourth, were the Sudras, or conquered non-Aryan 
tribes, who had become serfs. During the time of Manu the racial 
distinction between the Aryans and non-Aryans ceased to exist, and 
the Sudras included all persons who were not initiated to the twice- 
born status. Many ruling families also were called Sudras, as some 
of them are called to-day. The Sudras were not allowed to be 
present at the great national sacrifices or at the feasts. The priests 
asserted that they, the Brahmans, came from the mouth of Brahma ; 
the Rajputs, or Kshatriyas, from his arms ; the Vaisyas from his 
thighs ; and the Sudras from his feet. Caste was originally a dis- 
tinction between priest, soldier, artisan, and menial. Each trade in 
time came to have a separate caste ; and the priests insisted on the 
-z/ar/za-duties, because they held that social order was dependent 
thereon. 

The modern Hindu worship and theology is a development of 
Brahmanism. There is one impersonal and*spiritual Being^ which 

1 According to the latest writer. Dr Ketkar, who places the work between 
226 and 320 A D. 

2 Much interesting information regarding the early Hindu peoples of India 
will be found m Mr R. C. Dutt’s Ancient India^ Mr V. A. Smith’s Early History 
of India, and vol. 2 of the Imperial Gazetteer (1908). 

3 “ Principio coeluni ac terras, camposque liquentes, 

Lucentemque globum Lunae, Titaniaque astra 
Spiritus intus alit, totamque infusa per artus 
^iens agitat molem et magno se corpora miscet.’’ 

I'lr^it, Aen,, \'l. 724. 





(Ja.^te Mark 



1, 2, 3, and 4, Follovsers of VishiVK 
5, 6, 7, and 3, FoUoiros of Siia. 


Buddha 



In trod. 


HINDU DFITTE? 


Ixix 


pervades everything — one God, called Brahma. His three peisonal 
manifestations are as Brahma^ the Creator : Vishnu the Preserver ; 
and Siva, the Destroyer and Reproducer. Brahma, the Creator, is 
generally represented with four heads and four arms, in which he 
holds a portion of the Veda, a spoon for lustral observations, a 
rosary, and a vessel of lustral water (see Plate i). Sarasvaii, the 
wife of Brahma, rides on a peacock, and has a musical instrument, 
the 'G’ina,*' in her arms (see Plate i). She is the goddess of music, 
speech, the arts, and literature. The sin of lying is readily expiated 
by an offering to her. 

Vishnu holds a quoit in one hand, a conch shell in another, and 
sometimes a mace or club in anotheg*, and a lotus flower in a fourth 
(see Plate t). A common picture shows him with his wife, Lakshmi, 
sitting on Shesh, the snake (eternitv,', with Brahma on a lotus 
springing from his navel (see Plate 2). He is said to have come 
down to the earth nine times, and is expected a tenth time. These 
nine incarnations {avaiara) were in the form of— (i) a fish ; (2) a 
tortoise ; (3) a boar ( Varaho) : (4) a man lion {Narsingii) ; (5) a dwarf 
{l'\xmana) : (6) Parasu ra^na ; (7) Rama, the hero of the epic poem, 
the Ramayana ; (8) Krishna; and (9) Buddha. 

Rama carries a bow and arrows (see Plate 1 1. He is revered 
throughout India as the model of a son, a brother, and a husband. 
When friends meet it is common for them to salute each other by 
uttering Ramans name twice. No name is more commonly given 
to children, or more commonly invoked at funerals and in the hour 
of death. His ally, Hanumayi (p. Ixxii) is represented under a monkey 
form smeared with vermilion (see Plate i\ He is worshipped as the 
model of a faithful, devoted servant. 

Krishna’s biography is given in the epic of the Mahabharata. 
Although himself a powerful Chief, he was brought up among peasants, 
and is peculiarly the god of the lower classes. As a boy he killed 
the serpent Kali by trampling upon his head. He lifted the mountain- 
ridge of Gobardhan (p. 225) on his finger to shelter the herdsmen’s 
wives from the wrath of Indra, the Vedic rain-god. He had countless 
wives and sons, and is painted blue, and stands on a snake, with his 
left hand holding its body and a lotus in his right .(see Plate 2). 
Sometimes he is playing the flute. 

The adoption of Buddha as one of the incarnations w^as a com- 
promise with Buddhism, This led to the absorption of Buddhism 
into the general Hindu culture. On the last occasion Vishnu will 
descend as an armed warrior on a winged white horse, and will 
dissolve the universe at the close of the fourth or Kali age, of 432,000 
years, when the world has become wholly depraved. 

Devotion to Vishnu in his human incarnations of Rama and ' 



Ixx 


VISHNU AND SIVA 


India 


Krishna (who were real men; is the most popular form of the Hindu 
religion in India. His descents upon earth were for the delivery of 
men from the threefold miseries of life — viz., (i) from lust,#anger, 
avarice, and their evil consequences ; (2} from beasts, snakes, and 
wicked men ; (3) from demons. Vishnu has power to elevate his 
worshippers to eternal bliss in his own heaven. 

Vishnu’s wife, Lakshmi^ the goddess of wealth and beauty, sprang 
from the froth of the ocean when churned by gods and demons 
(see Plate i). An image of her is often to be found in the houses of 
shop-keepers. She is specially worshipped during the Diwali festival. 

Siva is also called Mahadeva, the great god, and his wife, who is 
known by several names and in several characters, as Parvati, the 
goddess of beauty (see Plate i) ; Durga, or Kali, the terrible (see 
Plate i), etc., is also called Devi, the goddess (see Plate i). The 
commonest of these is Kali^ who requires to be propitiated by 
sacrifices. Siva holds in his four hands a trident, an antelope, a 
noose for binding his enemies, and a kind of drum, and wears a tigers 
skin about the loins. He is a less human and more mystical god 
than Vishnu, and is worshipped in the form of a symbol, the 
lingam^ or a bull {Nandi ^ the Joyous). As destroyer Siva haunts 
cemeteries and burning - grounds, but his terrible qualities are 
now more especially associated with his wife, Kali. He is the 
impersonation of the reproductive power of nature," the word Siva 
meaning ‘‘blessed’’ or “auspicious.” He is also the typical ascetic 
and self-mortifier ; and as a learned philosopher he is the chief god 
of the priests. 

Siva has two sons — Ganesh, or Ganpati, and Kartikkeya. Ganesh 
has a fat body and an elephant’s head (see Plate i). He is a great 
favourite, being worshipped for good luck or success, and he is 
invoked at the beginning of every Indian book as a bringer of success, 
and also because he is the god of learning. His wife, Sarasvati, is 
the goddess of learning and speech. Kartikkeya has six heads and 
twelve arms, and is the god of war, the leader of the hosts of good 
demons (see Plate i). In the south of India he is called Skanda or 
Subrahmanya. 

The Hindu theory of metempsychosis {Karma) or transmigration 
of souls, arises from the belief that evil proceeds from antecedent evil, 
and that the penalty must be suffered in succeeding existences. 
According to Hindu belief there are eighty-four lakhs of different 
species of animals through which the soul of a man is liable to pass, 

1 In S. India Durga in this form is generally known as Bhawani (vulg. 
Bowani). 

2 Probably two-thirds of the Hindus worship Siva under this aspect embodied 
^ in the lingam. 



Introd. TRANSMIGRATION OF SOULS Ixxi 

and the Hindu’s object is to get rid of the serie^ of perpetual trans- 
migrations, so that he may live in the same heaven with the personal 
god. To this end he makes offerings to the image of a god, Krishna, 
Ganesh, or Kali being the most generally selected ; he abstains from 
killing any animal ; he gives money to the priests ; and does penances 
which sometimes extend to severe bodily torture. In practice he 
fears the priests and demons and the loss of caste. Demons have 
to be propitiated, the caste rules strictly kept, and the priests 
presented with gifts. Great care has to be taken not to eat food 
cooked by a man of inferior caste ; food cooked in water must not 
be eaten together by people of different castes, and the castes are 
entirely separated 'with regard to marriage and trades. The Hindu 
has a special theory of his own regarding purity and pollution : 
these words do not simply mean physical purity, A sacred thread 
of cotton is worn by the higher castes. This thread makes a person 
a “twice born” Arya, and distinguishes him from a Sudra. Washing 
in any holy river, particularly the Ganges, and more especially at 
Allahabad, Benares, Hardwar, and other exceptionally sacred spots, 
is of great efficacy in cleansing the soul of impurities. Most of these 
observances and the worshipping of idols are rejected by the Arya 
Samaj,^ a reformed body founded by Swami Dyanand (1827-53), 
which is attracting many of the educated Hindus in N. India. The 
Arya Samaj accepts the inspiration of the Vedas only ; the chief 
Brahma Samajists mainly confined to Bengal (p. Ixxvi), reject them 
as inspired scriptures. 

Travellers should remember that all who are not Hindus are 
outcasts, contact with whom may cause the loss of caste to a Hindu. 
They should not touch any cooking or water-holding utensil belong- 
ing to a Hindu, nor disturb Hindus when at their meals ; and they 
should not seek to approach any holy place if objection is made. The 
most sacred of all animals is the cow ; crocodiles and other animals 
at holy places, and trees, plants, stones, rivers, and tanks, are also 
sacred. The eagle (Garuda) is the attendant of Vishnu, the bull 
of Siva, the goose of Brahma, the elephant of Indra, the tiger of 
Durga, the buffalo of Yama, the rat of Ganesh, the ram of .Agni, 
the peacock of Kartikkeya, and the parrot of Kama (the god of love). 

As many references to the Mahabharata and Ramayana occur in 
the Handbook^ a brief account of these two famous epics is given here. 

The Mahabharata of Vyasa in its present form was compiled 
about 500 B.C. to 500 A.D., but, recording events which may be referred 
to about 1500 B.C., celebrated the battle between the Pandava (Pandu) 
and Kaurava (Kuru) Princes. The former, five in number, named 

' The number of Arya Samajists at the last census was 243,445, of Brahma 
Samajists only 5504 



Iwii THE TWO FAMOUS EPICS India 

Yudhishthir, BhinU, and Arjan, sons of one mother, and Nakula and 
Sahadeva, sons of another, were the offspring of Pandu, ruler of 
Hastinapur, an ancient city on the Ganges, 6o m. N.W. of Delhi, 
who ceded the kingdom to his elder, but blind brother, Dhrita- 
rashtra. The Kauravas were the sons of Dhritarashtra, and com- 
pelled him to send their cousins into exile, during which the marriage 
of Draupadi, daughter of Drupada, King of the Panchalas, took place, 
and most of the adventures which led to their names being attached 
to so many places all over India. At the end of their exile the 
Pandavas' received the Southern portion of the Hastinapur kingdom, 
and settled at Indraprastha, now Indrapat (p. 283). Having lost this 
share of their inheritance through gambling with their cousins, the 
Pandavas again went into exile for twelve years, after which they 
returned with an army and claimed five pats,” or small towns, of 
their former kingdom (Indrapat, Tilpat, Sonepat, Bhagpat, and 
Panipat). Over this claim the great battle ensued, in which, after 
eighteen days, nearly all the Kauravas were finally killed, largely 
through treacherous acts on the part of the Pandavas. The account 
of the funeral ceremonies of the slain is famous and almost Homeric. 
The five brothers then resumed their residence at Indrapat, and 
Yudhishthir celebrated the Aswamedha, or horse sacrifice of imperial 
rule, on the bank of the Jumna*. Finally the brethren and their 
wives retired to the Himalayas, and sought to reach Mount Meru ; 
but only the elder brother won through to there, and he declined to 
enter when admittance was refused to his sole remaining companion, 
a faithful dog ; he was admitted with his dog. 

The Ramayana, ascribed to Valmiki, and also probably com- 
posed about the 5th century B.C., related the adventures of Rama, 
elder son of a King o^ Oudh, who was postponed in the succession 
to the son of a younger wife, and banished by his father. Rama 
accordingly proceeded into exile with his wife Sita to the abode of 
the hermit Valmiki ; and, though the younger brother proved loyal 
to him on his father's death, he refused to return to Oudh until the 
term of his banishment had expired. Before this Slta was carried off 
from their forest abode by Ravana, king of Lanka,^ inspired by his 
sister, whose love Rama had rejected. She was rescued from Lanka 
by Rama with the help of Hanuman, the monkey general, and proved 
her chastity by the ordeal of fire ; but (according to a later tradition) 
was banished by her husband, and remained sixteen years in exile 
with Valmiki, after which she was finally reconciled to Rama. Rama 
is commonly known in India as Ram Chandra ; his brother Laksh- 
man constantly appears in the local legends which relate to him. 

1 There has been a dispute among Indian scholars as to whether La/iM is the 
same as Ceylon or Java. The orthodox view is that it is Ceylon. 



Jnfrod 


HINPF MONTHS 


Ixxiii 


The Kalh Vug^ or Hindu Era 

According to the Hindus, the world is now m its fourth Yug, or 
Age, the Kali- Yug, which commenced from the Equinox in i8th Feb. 
3102 B.C., and will last 432,000 years. The three preceding ages were 
the Satya, the Treta, and the Dwapara. The Satya, or Age of Truth, 
lasted 1,728,600 years; the Treta (from fra, “to preserve”) lasted 
1,296,000; and Dwapara (from dzoa, ^‘two,” and piir^ “after”) 
864,000 years. 

T/ie Era of Vikrainaditya^ Samwat or Samvat 

This era commenced from the first year ol the legendary King 
Vikramaditya, fabled to have reigned at Ujjain 57 B.c. It is in 
ordinary use in N. India. The Bikramajit year, as it is usually 
called, 1967-8, began on 23rd October 1911. 

The Saka Era, or Era of Salivahana 

Salivahana [having a sdli (lion) for his vehicle, vahanci\^ was a 
King who reigned in the S. of India. The Saka era dates from his 
birth, 78 A.D. This is the era in general use in S. India. The 
year 1834 of this era commenced on 9th March 1911. 

The Hindu year has six seasons or ritus : vasanta, “spring”; 
yrishma, “the hot season”; varsha, “the rains”; sharada, “the 
autumn ” (from $hri, “ to wdther”) ; hema 7 iia, “ the winter” : skishiru, 
“ the cool season.” 

Table of the Seasons and Months in Sanskrit, Hindi, and English. 


Names of Months. 



Sanskrit. 

Hindi, 

1 

English. j 

I. Vasanta . 

1 

,/Chaitra (Aries). 

Chain ^ 

April. 1 

' tfVaishakha. 

Baisakh. 

! May. 1 

j 2. Grishma . 

i flyeshtha (Gemini). 

Jeth. 

June. I 

’ ]\A’shadha. 

Asarh. 

July. 1 

1 

1 3. \arsha . 

fSravana (Leo), 

Sawan. 

August. * 

' ;\Bhadra (Virgo). 

Bhadon 

September. 

i 4 - Sharada . 

j / Ashwina. i 

Asoj. 

October. 

j(Kartika. 

Kartik. 

November. 

5- Hemanta 

! f Margasirsha. 

Aghan. 

December j 


'\Pausha. 

Pus. 

January. 1 

6. Shishira . 

1 

'/Magha. 

Magh. 

February. 1 

’ 1 f Phalguna (Pisces). 

Phagun. 

March. 


1 The Indian months begin about the 15th of the English month ; thus Pus is 
the latter half of January and the first half of February, and so with all the 
other months. 



iKxiv 


HINDU FESTIVALS 


India 


Hindu Festivals 

Makar Sankranti. — On the 1st of the month Magh (about 12th 
January) the sun enters the sign Capricorn or Makar. From this day 
till the arrival of the sun at the N. point of the zodiac the period is 
called/ Uttarayana, and from that time till he returns to Makar is 
Dakshinayana, the former period being lucky and the latter unlucky. 
At this festival the Hindus bathe, and rub themselves with sesamum 
oil. They also invite Brahmans, and give them pots full of sesamum 
seed. They wear new clothes with ornaments, and distribute sesamum 
seed mixed with sugar. 

Vasant Panckami is on the 5th day of the light half of Magh, and 
is a festival in honour of vasanta or spring. * 

Sivarat, the night of Siva, is held about the middle or end of 
February, when Siva is worshipped with flowers during the whole 
night. 

Holt. — A festival in honour of Krishna, held fifteen days before 
the moon is at its full, in the month Phagun, celebrated with the 
squirting or throwing of red or yellow powder over every one. It is 
a kind of carnival, and all sorts of licence are indulged in. 

Ashadhi Ekadasu the nth of the month Asarh, sacred to Vishnu, 
when that deity reposes for four months. 

Nag Pancha 77 ii^ held on the 5th of Sawan, when the serpent Kali 
is said to have been killed by Krishna. Ceremonies are performed to 
avert the bite of snakes. 

Janam Ashtami^ held on the 8th of the dark half of Sawan, when 
Krishna is said to have been born at Gokul (p. 225). Rice may not 
be eaten on this day, but only fruits and other grains. At night Hindus 
bathe and worship an image of Krishna, adorning it with tuln or basil, 

Ganesh Ckaturthi^ held on the 4th of Bhadon, in honour of 
Chanesh, a clay image of the god being worshipped and Brahmans 
entertained. The Hindus are prohibited from looking at the moon 
on this day, and, if by accident they should see it, they get them- 
selves abused by their neighbours to remove the curse. 

Dasahara {Dasaka^ or ten days, commonly Dussera), held on the 
loth of Asoj, in honour of Durga, or Devi, the vdfe of Siva, who on 
this day slew the buffalo-headed demon Maheshasur. On this day 
Rama marched against Ravana, and for this reason the Mahrattas 
chose it for their expeditions. Branches of the Butea frondosa are 
offered at the temples. This is an auspicious day for sending- 
children to school. The nine preceding days are called Navaratra, 
when Brahmans are paid to recite hymns to Durga. The Durga 
Puja holiday is the principal holiday of the year in Bengal. 

Diwali, “feast of lamps,” from diu>a, “a lamp/’ and avail, “a 



Introd. 


HINDU RULE IN INDIA 


Ixxv 


row," held on the new moon of Kartik, in honour of Kali or Bhawam, 
and more particularly of Lakshmi, the goddess of prosperity, when 
merchants and bankers count their wealth and worship it. It is 
said that Vishnu killed a giant on that day, and the women went to 
meet him with lighted lamps. In memory of this lighted lamps are 
displayed from all houses, and are set afloat in rivers and in the sea, 
and auguries are drawn from them according as they remain lit or are 
extinguished. 

Kartik Ekadasi, held on the nth of Kartik, in honour of Vishnu, 
who is said then to rise from a slumber of four months. 

Hindu Rule in India 

The settlement in N. India of the Aryans, w^hose social system 
slowly developed into what is now known as Hinduism, took place 
gradually between 2000 to 800 B.c. The main colonies up to the time 
of the Muhammadan invasions were located along the valleys of the 
Panjab and of the Jumna and Ganges ; and though some were 
pushed farther S. into the peninsula, the people and the rulers of 
that part of the country remained mainly aboriginal, and were 
gradually absorbed inside the Hindu pale. Of both the stocks which 
combine to make the mass of the Indian people there were many 
Ruling Houses, most of which from the time of Buddha and 
Alexander are known to us from one source or another, but hardly 
one of them has left any substantial memorials, if the Buddhist 
relics of antiquity and a few old Hindu temples be excepted. Indeed 
It is one of the curious facts of the East that, while the people are so 
immutable, the dynasties are extraordinarily ephemeral. The mention 
of only a few of the principal dynasties which ruled in the fifteen 
hundred years previous to the Muhammadan invasions would include 
the Nandas and Guptas of the Ganges Valley, the Scythian Kanishka 
and his successors at Peshawar (p. 337), Vikramaditya and Salivahana 
in Malwa (pp. 125, 127), the Anhilvara and Valabhi kings of Patan and 
Kathiawar (pp. 18 r and 204), the Chalukyas (p. 31), who held sway 
from Gujarat to Mysore, the various rulers of Orissa (p. 444), the 
Telinga kings, who governed on the Godavari (p. 515), and the great 
Andhra, Chola, and Chera kingdoms of the S., situated on the Kistna, 
at Tanjore, and in the extreme point of the peninsula. Not Only all 
these, but all the Hindu Kingdoms which were in existence in 
1000 B.C., have passed away ; and now, in the 20th century, the 
oldest Hindu Ruling Houses of India, those of Rajputana, can trace 
the origin of their present States only from the time of the 
Muhammadan conquest, while the beautiful capitals of these States 
are nearly all of a much later period, Jodhpur and Udaipur dating 
from the middle of the 15th and i6th centuries, and Jaipur 



Ixxvi THE HRAH^rA \ j ImHa 

from the i8tb. Owing partly to the protection afforded by the 
desert country which surrounded them, and partly to their strong 
feudal organisation, the Rajput States maintained a really independent 
position during the first three centuries of Muhammadan rule, and 
were able to secure one of subordinate independence under the 
Mughal Emperors^ while the other Hindu Kingdoms of India w^ere 
being gradually conquered, and the minor Muhammadan States 
absorbed ; and, just when this process must have seemed to the 
ruling race to be complete, the harsh and ruthless treatment of the 
Rajputs and Mahrattas by the Emperor Aurangzeb evoked an out- 
break of Hindu feeling which proved the principal cause of the 
downfall of the Mughal Empire. The older-fashioned chivalrous 
temperament of the Rajputs was, however, no match for the vigour 
and hardihood of the younger nation ; and when British interference 
practically checked an Imperial Mahratta domination in India, it also 
saved the Rajput States from destruction. Of the other great Hindu 
Ruling Houses of India now e.\i sting, Mysore was restored by the 
British Power at the end of the i8th century (p. 528), w'hile the State 
of Jammu and Kashmir was created only sixty years ago. The Sikh 
Ruling States (p. 296), which date from the middle of the i8th 
century, owe their present existence to British protection against 
Maharaja Ranjit Sing-h, and the great Mahratta States (p. xc) are 
of but slightly longer pedigree than these. The older States of 
Travancore and Cochin, protected for so long by their remote 
position, would inevitably have fallen to the Mysore Muhammadan 
dynasty had that survived, or to the Mahrattas, but for the advent 
of the British Power. As would be expected, the old-world Hindu 
customs, apart from mere religious observances, have survived to a 
greater extent in Rajputana than in any other part of India ; and the 
traveller who, by means of a special introduction to the Resident or 
Political Agent, has the opportunity of properly observing them for a 
short time at one of the more remote Rajput capitals, will find his 
interest amply rewarded. 

THE BRAHMA SA^MAJ 

The Brainna Samaj represents the Theistic movement in India. 
It originated in Calcutta, and w^as formally inaugurated by Raja 
Ram Mohan Roy in 1830. One effect of early English education 
in India was to unsettle the minds of young men and shake their 
belief in orthodox Hinduism, and many of them drifted into atheism 
or agnosticism. The Raja, who was a man of commanding intellect 
and great piety, and was not only learned in the Hindu s'eriptures, 
but had also studied the Bible m the original Hebrew and the Koran 



Introd, BUDDHISM AND THE BUDDHISTS Ixxvii 

in Arabic, established the Brahma Samaj on an eclectic basis, 
accepting what was best in all great religions, but drawing his 
inspiration mainly from the Upanishads. He left for Europe in 
1831, and died there in 1833. The movement languished for a time, 
until in 1843 was joined by Debendra Nath Tagore. He was 
intensely spiritual, and under his long leadership the Brahma Samaj 
prospered, and branches were formed in various provincial centres. 
Keshab Chandra Sen became an adherent in 1857, and gave a fresh 
impetus to its activities. He was greatly influenced by the Bible, 
and introduced a definite programme of social reform. In 1862 he 
was ordained a minister of the Calcutta Brahma Samaj. He was 
full of missionary zeal, and preached in different parts of India. 
His advanced views on social questions were not shared by Debendra 
Xath Tagore, and in 1866 he seceded and founded the Brahma 
Samaj of India. Under his inspiring leadership the movement 
extended to Bombay, Madras, and the .Punjab. In 1870 he visited 
England, and met with a cordial welcome from churches of all 
de*nominations. In 1872 he was instrumental in getting the Native 
Marriage Act passed to legalise inter-caste marriages. There was 
a further schism in 1878, when a large body of prominent Brahmas 
separated from Keshab Chandra Sen (who died in 1884), and the 
Sadharan Brahma Samaj was duly organised. It is now the most 
influential and populai branch of the movement. According to the 
census of 1911 there are 5504 Brahmas in India. The number is 
small, but it includes many men and women of culture and position. 
The influence of the Brahma Samaj is widely felt, and it is doing 
much to liberalise orthodox Hinduism and encourage social reform. 

BUDDHISM AND THE BUDDHISTS 

BuddhIvSM is too vast a subject to be treated exhaustively in a few 
pages, but some notice of so widespread a religion is required. 
The history of the founder ©f Buddhism, the doctrines, the develop- 
ment and decadence of the religion, and its present circumstances, 
may be briefly stated. 

Siddhartha Gautama, afterwards called Buddha (the Enlightened), 
or Sakyamuni, the sage of the Sakyas, belonged to the Kshatriya or 
warrior caste, and was the son of Suddhodana, ruler of the Sakya 
clan, settled around Kapilavastu, in the Nepalese Tarai, N. of the 
Basti district of the United Provinces. The year 558 B.C. has been 
suggested for his birth at the Lumbini garden, the modern Rummindei, 
near Kapilavastu, and 483 B.C. as the year of his death. 

The story of his life is contained in the sacred literature of the 
Buddhists, undoubtedly based on truth, though enveloped m a mass 


Ixxviii BUDDHISM AND THE BUDDHISTS India 

of legend. The sacred literature means the Pali Canon called the 
“Three Pitakas, or Baskets,” of the Law and Tradition, besides 
subsequent commentaries ; fragments of canonical writings in other 
dialects exist. It contains the supposed genuine sayings of the 
Buddha and the moral and religious principles of Buddhism. Among 
the works in the Canon are the Sutras (or Suttas), the dialogues, 
the Dhammapada, the Jatakas, the Buddhist psychology, etc. Pali, 
(the “Text”) was a literary version of an Aryan dialect, later than 
the Vedas, earlier than classical Sanskrit. It had ceased to be a 
vernacular, but was the religious literature of Ceylon, Siam, and 
Burma, written on palm-leaf manuscripts. At the age of twenty-nine 
Gautama made “ the great renunciation ” of the world and its 
pleasures. Much troubled by the spectacle of human suffering — age, 
disease, and death — and impressed by the sight of a peaceful saint, 
he decided to leave his happy home, his loved wife, and his lately 
born child, and surrender himself to the search of mental peace. 
Cutting off his long hair and changing his princely raiment, Gautama 
left the palace suddenly and secretly in ragged garments. As* a 
disciple of two celebrated Brahman sages, he strove for six years 
to content himself with their teaching and severe self-mortification ; 
the strict austerities he practised produced no peace of mind or 
■ divine enlightenment — only great bodily weakness and a conviction 
of their inutility. So he abandoned penances, and sat in meditation 
under the Bo-tree, the “ tree of knowledge,” at Buddh Gaya, where 
he was tempted by Mara, the personification of carnal desire, to 
return to the world ; but he resisted, and became the Buddha — the 
Enlightened. 

Repairing to Benares, he preached his first sermon on “The 
Foundation of the Kingdom of Righteousness,” commemorated by 
the Dhamek Stupa at Sarnath, and henceforth devoted his whole 
life to teaching. In the kingdom of Magadha (now Bihar), where 
he travelled, he was received with great reverence and hospitality 
by all classes. Sometimes the King, or another wealthy donor, 
would build a residence for the Teacher. His disciples formed, 
under rules framed by the Master, the community of mendicants 
(Bhikshus) from which the great monastic organisation, called the 
Sangha^ was developed. Places such as Lumbini and Buddh Gaya 
and his temporary residences became sacred spots. At nearly eighty 
he died at Kusinagara, modern Kasia, in Gorakhpur District. The 
ceremony of burning his body was conducted with pomp, as for 
a King, and his ashes were divided, as precious relics, among the 
chief people to whom he had preached. Part of these have recently 
been discovered at Peshawar (p. 337) and at Piprawa (p. 421) ; the 
ashes at the latter place have been judged from* the inscription on the 



Introd. BUDDHISM AND THE BUDDHISTS Ixxix 

vase to be the relics of the Sakya Ruling Family. At his death 
Buddhism was the reformed religion of a sect, prevalent within the 
limited area of his preaching ; it was maintained by the organisation 
of the Sangha until the day of its expansion dawned. 

Only a summary of the philosophical doctrines of Buddhism can 
be attempted here. But some knowledge of its character as a 
religion is essential for an understanding of a great period of 
ancient India. 

In the Buddhist religion the personality of the Buddha is pre- 
dominant. No Supreme God is admitted in the system. The 
Buddha, as the teacher of the truth, and therefore the guide and 
saviour, is the central object of faith and devotion. By his doctrine 
the work of salvation is limited to human agency — that is, the human 
mind can achieve omniscience, and human nature arrive at absolute 
perfection ; its purpose was to lead men to a higher life. Human 
and animal happiness were its avowed object as a practical religion. 
It had a kindly spirit, and a central tenet is to keep to the ‘'middle 
path ” between worldliness and asceticism. Buddha, it is believed, 
taught that all life is suffering ; that suffering arises from indulgence 
m desires, especially the longing for continuity of life ; and that the 
only hope of relief lies in the suppression of sensual passions and 
every attachment, in Nirvana, the highest bliss — meaning, not the 
extinction or negation of being, but the extinction, the absence, of 
passionate desire, the goal by which union with the perfect good is 
obtained. Ignorance, delusion, and anger, are also fundamental evils 
and hindrances that must be completely destroyed by intense and 
continuous mental discipline. Each man must depend on himself 
and his own efforts towards intellectual and spiritual clearness. Each 
man must purify his life, grasp the law of causes, perceive the sorrow 
of existence, the impermanence of all states, and cease to believe in 
any ‘‘ soul ” apart from the elements which make up the individual and 
are dissolved at his death. Rewards and punishments, strictly speak- 
ing, do not come into the creed, but the inexorable working of cause and 
effect proceeds without a break, and thus good and evil done in one 
life bear fruit in the next. The connection between the lives is not 
the transmigration of a soul but the Karma (action), the force that 
passes on and causes the newly assembled elements of existence to 
form a new being living on earth or in one of the heavens or hells 
according to the acts and intentions of a former life, for those con- 
stitute the individual’s Karma. A man’s object should be to hear 
somewhere, at some time, the teaching of a Buddha and become 
enlightened by meditation and introspection, so as to earn a cessation 
of the cycle of lives through which he would otherwise be destined to 
pass, and thus finally fo reach Nirvana, the sinless, calm state of mind 



Ixxx BUDDHISM AND THE BUDDHISTS India 

in which there is no renewed individual existence. Thus the final 
death, with no new life to follow — as there is no soul which continues 
to exist after death—is a result of Nirvana, but it is not Nirvana. 
All men are capable of attaining Nirvana, without distinction of 
caste, and neither sacrifices nor bodily mortifications are of any avail. 
To attain salvation by obtaining freedom from delusions, the Buddhist 
must follow the eightfold path and pass through four stages of 
higher and higher saintliness. This, the Noble Path, is the very pith 
of Buddhism, by which alone the Buddhist can reach Arhatship^ the 
state of salvation, the state of a man made perfect. The Buddha 
himself is believed to have passed through a great number of 
existences in the course of the preparation for his final mission. The 
legends of these lives of Gautama are the famous Jataka tales which 
have formed the subjects of many ancient sculptures, paintings, and 
literary works of Buddhist countries. 

The principal virtues inculcated by Buddhism are charity, com- 
passion, truthfulness, chastity, respect for the Sangha^ and self- 
restraint in regard to all the ambitions, pleasures, and attachments 
of life. The stricter code — the ten precepts — is binding on the 
religious order r only the first five precepts are binding on the laity. 
They are practical rules forbidding (i) the destruction of life in 
any form, (2) theft, (3) unchastity, (4) lying, (5) indulgence in 
intoxicating drinks, (6) eating at forbidden hours, (7) frequenting 
performances, (8) use of unguents and ornaments, (9) use of a 
large or ornamented couch, (10) accepting money. 

Extreme asceticism and every kind of self-torture are contrary 
to the teaching of Buddhism as practised by the religious orders. 

The Buddhist doctrine has been called a pessimist and atheist 
creed, with some excellent moral rules attached. But in reality it is 
not pessimistic, as it teaches the assurance of being able to put an end 
to sorrow, and infinite opportunities for beginning again after failure. 
Buddhism is “ the embodiment of the eternal verity that as a man 
sows he will reap, associated with the personal duties of mastery over 
self and kindness to all men ; and quickened into a popular religion 
by the example of a noble and beautiful life” (Sir W. W. Hunter). 

The Buddhist ideal is lofty, and has done much for Oriental 
civilisation wherever it has prevailed. In practice the religion has 
been adapted to the needs of believers of many races, and prominence 
was given from early times to almsgiving and acts of piety, such as 
the building of shrines and monasteries. Faith in, adoration of, and 
meditation on, the Buddha are of great efficacy. Even in the earliest 
teaching the presence of a Perfect Buddha in the world is held to 
be indispensable for the teaching oif the truth. Gautama is said to 
have been preceded by other Buddhas in past ages, and a future 



Introd. 


BUDDHISM AND THE BUDDHISTS 


Ixxxi 


Buddha Maitreya, is looked for. The rrore austere and rationalistic 
ideas of arhatship (saintiiness; and Ni>vana (cessation of sorrow by 
destruction of craving), as taught in the earlier phases of Indian 
Buddhism, developed afterwards into the vast and glowing conceptions 
of Mahayana Buddhists, multiplying Buddhas and Bodhisattwas 
(predestined Buddhas), and carrying the notion of Nirvana far beyond 
arhaiship — the point where the Hinayana Buddhism stops. These 
ideas are expressed in Sanskrit literature and indicated to some 
extent in Buddhist art. The greatest Indian representatives of the 
Mahayana flourished in the first few centuries of the Christian era. 
In a yet later and debased Buddhism hardly any of the old virtue or 
rationalism can be traced. But the early art and principal Buddhist 
literature of India are inspired by a beautiful devotion and a reasonable 
morality. A summary of the spirit of Buddhism can be seen clearly 
set out in translations of the Dhammapada (the way, the state, the 
path, the footsteps of religion). 

The day of expansion of Buddhism dawned when Asoka (272 
to 231 B.C.), the third Mauryan King of Magadha, came under its 
influence, visited the Buddhist holy places, propagated and enforced 
the Buddhist Law of Piety, issued his rock-cut edicts, ordered that 
the sacred books should be collected, and was ordained as a monk. 
He ruled over the whole of India up to the Hindu Kush mountains 
and north of a line drawn W. from Nellore, Literature, civilisation, 
and culture combined to develop the religion ; monks and nuns and 
laity alike could join the Sangha. Specimens of his rock edicts, 
inscribed under his title of Priyadasi, exist still at Girnar (p. 209), at 
Lhauli, near Bhubaneswar (p. 450), and at Shahbazgarhi, close to 
Hoti Mardan (p. 336) ; monolithic columns, lats, erected by him, 
with a portion of the edicts, may be seen at Allahabad (p. 43) and 
at Delhi (pp. 270-1). These edicts, deciphered by the genius of James 
Prinsep, embody for the most part the moral rules of Buddhism ; 
they forbid the shedding of blood, inculcate obedience to parents, 
almsgiving, charity, mercy to all living creatures, respect for teachers, 
support of religious instructors ; they refer to the appointment of 
censors of morals and missionaries and the creation of hospitals, 
roads, and wells, and conclude with prayers for the spread of 
Buddhism. The full number of principal edicts is fourteen, but 
there are also minor edicts on rocks and pillars. The edicts are of 
great interest as mentioning the Chola, Pandya, and Kerala Kingdoms 
of the South, and the Yavan (Greek) kings, Turmayaparni (Ptolemy), 
Antiyochena (Antiochus), Maka (Magus), and Alikasandare. Those 
specially interested in the subject will find the edicts in vol. i of the 
Corpus Inscriptionum Indicarum. The Buddhist legend is that 
Asoka covered India with 84,000 stupas and viharas. His administra- 

/ 


Ixxxii BUDDHISM AND THE BUDDHISTS India 

tion was organised to enforce justice, religion, and virtue ; and he 
despatched several Buddhist missions to spread the doctrine far and 
v/ide. He was patron of the solemn assemblies, or Council, at 
Pataliputra, in 250 B c., when the Pali Canon was finally revised and 
authorised ; his son (or brother) Mahendra headed the Buddhist 
mission to Ceylon. 

After Asoka^s time Buddhism more and more affected the literature 
and art of India. Towards the beginning of the Christian era exterior 
influences began to operate upon the religion, then widespread and 
popular in India, from the N.W. and E. Buddhist art made 
wonderful strides by the introduction of the Hellenic element. The 
In do - Scythian monarch Kanishka (whose date is variously given 
from 58 B.c, to 278 A.D., and probably was 123 to 150 A.D.), a convert to 
Buddhism, became also a famous roySl patron of the religion, raised 
mighty stupas, and encouraged the collecting of the Scriptures into a 
Canon. About this time, in the latter half of the 2nd century a.d.. 
a marked development of the doctrine took place in N. India. The 
literature (Sanskrit works, shortly after translated into Chinese), 
sculpture, and painting show the predominance of a later con- 
ception of the Buddha and the essentials of Buddhist doctrine. This 
later phase of doctrine is called the Mahayana (the greater vehicle), 
the more advanced sect which outgrew, and was distinct from, the 
mother Church ; the Hinayana (lesser vehicle) more primitive doctrine 
of the South Asian countries, which have preserved the old Pali 
Canon, and, in general, corresponding motives in art. Under this 
newer Buddhism, the Mahayana, which had much in common with 
the older Hinduism, “ the sage Gautama became in practice, if not in 
theory, a god, with his ears open to the prayers of the faithful, and 
served by a hierarchy of Bodhisattwas and other beings acting as 
mediators between him and sinful men.” The Mahayana sect 
introduced many Bodhisattwas into their pantheon, with attendant 
deities and demons, spacious temples and images, processions, 
ceremonial, and festivals. The remains of Buddhist art are mainly 
the work of the Mahayana sect. 

The missions to China led to visits of Chinese Buddhists, who 
made long and perilous pilgrimages to worship at sacred spots and 
collect copies of the sacred texts. Their accounts of their travels, 
fortunately preserved, are of the greatest value for our knowledge of 
the state of Buddhism in the 4th to 7th centuries a.d. Buddhism 
was the predominant religion from the 5 rd century B.c. to the 4th 
century A-D., very influential, propagated systematically by a 
hierarchy, and wealthy, with its numerous monastic foundations, 
centres of learning and art. It flourished during those centuries, 
and the religious orders were strong. But it had already powerful 



Introd. BUDDHISM AND THE BUDDHISTS Ixxxiii 

rivals in jainism, and the Brahmanism (which was never ousted from 
India) adapted to popular worship and belief \ the latter is to be 
distinguished from the Brahmanism of the Buddha^s time, the 
strength of which seems to have been in sacrificial observances and 
\>dic study. Gradually the Brahmanic element in India over- 
whelmed the Buddhist as a popular religion, after the latter's pre- 
valence for approximately one thousand years, so that Buddhism 
became by degrees assimilated to Hinduism ; and by the 8th 
century Buddhism was no longer a philosophic doctrine. Some 
famous Buddhist monuments were converted in course of time into 
Hindu shrines. When Buddhism disappeared from the open 
country of the peninsula, it maintained itself in the Himalayas, 
Burma, and Ceylon. The Buddhist sculptures remain, ranging from 
Buddh Gaya and Bharhut, of the date of the Mauryan dynasty, 320 
to 180 B.c. ; Sanchi, before and after our era for several centuries : 
Amravati and Gandhara, from our era to the 3rd century ; to Ajanta 
and the later caves. 

At the present time the most impressive traces of the ancient 
Buddhism of India may be roughly classified as (i) the sites of the 
places mentioned as his residences, or scenes of great events in 
Buddha’s life — e.g,^ Buddh Gaya ; (2) Asoka’s pillars, marking the 
stages of his religious pilgrimages, 3rd century B.C., and his rock 
edicts ; (3) the stupas, afterwards modified ; the earliest and very 
interesting bas-reliefs illustrating Buddhist sacred texts— Sanchi, 
near Bhopal, and the remains of the Bharhut stupa ; (4) certain sites 
in the N.W., where great monuments existed in the early centuries of 
the Christian era — e.g,^ the great stupa of Kanishka, near Peshawar, 
discovered in 1909, containing a relic-chamber, with a valuable casket 
and its contents ; and the stupa of Piprawa, on the Nepal frontier ; 

(5) the Gneco - Buddhist sculptures, collected in museums from 
Gandhara, showing remarkable devotional art, in which Buddha, 
his life, and legends, are illustrated in markedly Hellenic style; 

(6) the later monuments, as at Amravati, on the Kistna, in which 
Hellenic influence is marked. 

Of the 10,721,453 Buddhists in India, 10,384,579 are in Burma; 
240,854 are in Bengal ; 36,512 in Kashmir ; 28,915 in Sikhim ; 10,506 in 
Assam : so that ordinary travellers are likely to come across Buddhists 
only in Burma, Ceylon, Darjeeling, and Kashmir. Several books 
on Buddhism have been mentioned in the list on pp. xxx to xxxvii. 
The best account of the Buddhist religion as it actually alfects the lives 
of the Burmese, is in Sir G. Scott’s work, The Burman^ His Life and 
Notions, The Buddhist population in Burma are the happiest people 
on earth. The Pali Text Society is doing much for the elucidation of 
Buddhism by publishing original Pali works and some translations. 


Ixxxiv 


THE JAINS 


India 


Buddha is generally represented in one of three attitudes — he sits 
cross-legged, either with his hands in contact in an attitude of 
profound meditation, or with one hand pointing to the earth, or 
with both hands raised in the preaching posture. His ears sometimes 
reach to his shoulders (see Plate 2). 

THE JAINS 

The founder of this sect, which numbered 1,248,182 persons in 
India ^t the census of 1911, was Vardhamana, commonly known by 
his title of Mahavira, and designated Nataputta by the rival order 
of Buddhists. The name of Nirgrantha (“without any ties”), of 
Parsvanatha's order, attached itself to Mahavira’s order, but fell into 
disuse. Mahavira was born in or about 599 B.c. to Raja Siddhartha, 
head of the Nata clan of Kshatriyas, settled at Vaisali (the modern 
Besarh), about 27 m. N. of Patna* His mother was Trisala, a King’s 
daughter. At thirty he adopted a spiritual career and became a monk 
of the Parsvanatha order. After twelve years his divine mission was 
recognised ; he was entitled Mahavira (Great Hero) and acknowledged 
to be a Jina (spiritual conqueror), from which the system Jainism 
and sect Jain are derived. In the Jain hierarchy Parsvanatha 
was Mahavira's immediate predecessor ; from him the sacred hill 
Parasnath, in the Hazaribagh district, has its name. Mahavira 
taught his religious system and organised asceticism for thirty years, 
chiefly in Bihar, in the same area as Gautama Buddha, without 
conflicting. He died in 527 B.C. at Pawa, in the Patna district. 
(Buddha 558 to 483 B.C.) 

Jainism is a monastic organisation — not strictly a religion. The 
Jains acknowledged caste, and the Brahmans as priests ; their monastic 
order included four classes— monks, nuns (Svetambaras only), lay- 
brothers, and lay-sisters. Through this lay element Jainism survived 
in its monastic settlements and lay communities when Buddhism 
disappeared. The Svetambaras collected and preserved their sacred 
books in a Council at Pataliputra, the modern Patna, about 310 B.c. ; 
a subsequent Council at Valabhi, in Gujarat, made a revised edition. 
In 79 or 82 A.D. a schism took place between the Svetambaras (white- 
clad) and Digambaras (sky-clad, or naked). 

The chronicling spirit is strong in the Jains, who maintain lists 
of the succession of teachers. Ancient Jain stupas and inscriptions 
have been discovered. The object of the Jains is to obtain liberation 
from the bonds of transmigration. As the cycle of re-births runs on 
unceasingly, the only remedy lies in breaking with life by an abnega- 
tion of the world. This is their attainment of Nirvana (liberation 
from any further re-birth) to be obtained in life, not after death, by 



Introd. 


HI\DU AND nUDDHIST DATES 


Ixxxv 


the principles of Right Faith. Right Cognition, Right Conduct. 
Right Faith is absolute reliance on their founder as Tirthankara, or 
pathmaker, to Nirvana. There were twenty-four Tirthankaras, from 
the first, Adinath, to the last three, Neminath, Parsvanatha and 
Mahavira. Each is known by a symbol (see p. 157). They are to be 
found principally in Ahmadabad and elsewhere in the Bombay 
Presidency. For their temples consult p. ciii- Right Cognition means 
the correct understanding of the Jain theory of the world, which assigns 
a soul to every individual person or thing. Right Conduct is summed 
up in five great vows, which include their regard for the minutest 
creatures of animal life as possessing souls. Only monks can 
attain Nirvana ; nuns cannot reach it, nor can the lay adherents, 
for whom the vows are relaxed. Jainism has developed by the 
introduction of a religious cult into their essentially atheistic system. 
The building of temples and other religious features are excrescences 
on the pure Jam system, due to the admission of the lay element. 
The Jains chiefly reside in the trade centres of W. India. Their 
most famous shrines are at the hill of Parasnath, Palitana, in 
Kathiawar, and Mount Abu. They differ from Hindus on certain 
points, while agreeing generally. They maintain pinjrapols, or 
hospitals, for all decrepit animals. They are great traders and very 
charitable. 


I^UDDHISl' FEsT1\ALS 

The New Year Festival corresponds to the Makar-Sankranti of the 
Plindus (see p. Ixxiv), but in Burma it often takes place as late as 
April. At a given moment, which is ascertained by the astrologers 
of Mandalay, a cannon is fired off, announcing the descent of the King 
of the Naths (genii) upon earth. Then begin the Saturnalia. 

The last birth of Gautama is celebrated at the end of April by the 
worship of his images, followed by processions. In Ceylon the coming 
of the Buddha to the island is celebrated by a festival in March or 
April, when the pilgrims visit either his footprint on Adam’s Peak 
or the sacred Bo-tree at Anuradhapura. 


Some Early Hindu and Buddhist Dates. 

B.C. 

The Vedas and hymns .... (probably between) 1500-1000 
The Mahabkarata^Tun epic poem of the heroic age in N. India; and 
the Ramayana^ an epic poem relating to the Aryan advance into 

S. India (both uncertain) 500 B.C. -500 a.d. 

Birth of Gautama Buddha (the Enlightened) . . . (probably) 558 

Death of Buddha : First Great Council of Buddhist'? at Raiagriha, 

in Magadha {probably* 4S3 

Second Great Buddhist Council ...... (about) 383 


Ixxxvi 


THE SIKHS 


India 


Alexander the Great crossed the Indus near Attock ; defeated Porus B.c. 
at the passage of the Jhelum (Hydaspes) ; captured a town N.E. of 
Multan, where he was severely wounded ; and then retired to Persia 
* vid the Indus and Baluchistan, leaving Greek garrisons behind him 327-324 
Chandragupta Maurya (Sandracottus) conquered Magadha, and 


became Emperor of India ........ 322 

The Mauryan Dynasty . . . . . . . . . 321-184 

Chandragupta received the Greek ambassador, Megasthenes . . 302 

Asoka, grandson of Chandragupta, professed Buddhism, and 

issued fourteen rock-edicts ........ 257 

Asoka’s pilgrimage to Buddhist sacred places .... 249 

Asoka’s Buddhist Council at Patna ; his dissemination of the 

principles of Buddhism ....... (after) 242 

Asoka’s ordination as a monk ....... 240 

The Indo-Greek and Indo-Parthian Dynasties . . 250 B.C.-60 a.d. 

The Sunga, Kanva, and Andhra Dynasties . . . 184 6,0.-236 A.i). 

The Indo-Bactrian Kings ...... 100 6.0.-300 a.d. 

The Malava era dated from the total defeat of the Sakas by the 

Malavas at Karor, in the Panjab ...... 57 


The Kushan, or Indo-Scythian Dynasty ...... 45-225 

The Northern, Mahayana, form of Buddhism became one of the 

State religions of China ........ 65 

The Saka, or Salivahana, era dated from ..... 78 

The fourth and last Buddhist Council held under King Kanishka (about) 140 
The code of Manu, laying down the laws and ceremonies for 

Brahmans (of uncertain age, but dated at) 200 

The Gupta Empire and the Western Satraps — Chandragupta I. to 
Kumaragupta I. ........ 

P'a-Hian, the Chinese traveller, visited Buddhist shrines in India 
First invasion of the White Huns ...... 

The Gupta Empire (continued) and the White Huns 
Second invasion of the White Huns ..... 

The Vikrama era dated from the defeat of the Huns at Mandasor, 

W. Mahva, by the Malavas under Yasodharman Vikramaditya 
The reign of Harsha ........ 

Pilgrimage to Buddhist shrines by the Chinese traveller Hiuen 

Tsang ........... 629-645 

The Medic'eval Kingdoms of the North 648-1200 

Sankaracharya, the great apostle of Saivism in S. India . . (about) 800 

Sect of Lingayats founded ...... in 12th century 

Kabir, the religious reformer, born 

Birth of Nanak, a Plindu reformer, who preached the abolition of 

caste, and established the Sikh religion 

Note.— of these dates are quoted from Mr V. A. Smith's Early 
History of India. ’ ' 


320-455 

400-41 1 

455 

455-606 

470-480 


OJO 

606-648 


THE SIKHS 

The Sikhs ^ are a reformed sect of Hindus who follow a teacher 
named Nanak, born near Lahore in 1469. The word Sikh means a 
“disciple” of the Guru or teacher. Except in denouncing idolatry 
and in welcoming all ranks without distinction of caste, Nanak^s 
i Pronounced like “seeks.'* 



Introd. 


IHh SIKHS 


Ixxxvil 


teaching was very similar to that of the worshippers of Vishnu. All 
the Gurus inveighed against caste ; Guru Govind finally abolished it, 
established the Sikh religion on a political and military basis, pro- 
claimed as the depository of the principles and doctrines of the 
Sikh religion the Granth, or holy book, which is now the principal 
object of the Sikh devotions, and definitely established the Khalsa, 
as the Sikh brotherhood is called (see pp. 300-1). (Khdlsa is from the 
Arabic K kalis ^ which means pure, and was meant by the Guru to 
indicate the purity of his faith.) 

In the middle of the i8th century the Sikhs, who had been 
gradually rising into power, struggled with the Afghans for supremacy 
in the Panjab and finally won it. In 1715 Banda had been tortured 
to death by the Mugbals ; but in 1763 they avenged his fate by 
destroying Sirhind utterly. Banda was not a Guru ; he was an agent 
sent by Guru Govind Singh from the Deccan to avenge the indignities 
offered to the Sikhs by the Muhammadans. Sirhind was the place 
where two of Guru Govind’s children were barbarously put to death. 
The next year, in 1764, they fought a long and doubtful battle with the 
Afghan Ahmad Shah Durani in the vicinity of Amritsar, and on his 
retirement they took Lahore, which soon became the centre of their 
power, Amritsar being the religious centre. The government was at 
first in the hands of a number of misls^ or confederacies, which were 
gradually absorbed by Ranjit Singh of the Sukarchakia Misl, who 
finally became Maharaja and the head of the Sikhs. Ranjit Singh 
died in 1839, and his son Kharak Singh and his grandson Nao Nihal 
Singh died in November the next year, the latter from injuries 
received from the fall of a gateway as he was returning from the 
funeral of his father. After an interval Maharaja Sher Singh became 
ruler of Lahore, and was murdered in September 1843 t>y the 
Sindhanwalia Sirdars, who also killed the Prime Minister, Raja 
Dhian Singh, of Jammu ; and upon this Dhalip Singh, a putative son 
of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, succeeded. His mother, Rani Jindan, 
attempted to rule through Hira Singh, son of Dhian Singh, Jowahir 
Singh, her brother, and Lai Singh, her lover, but the first two of these 
were murdered, and the real power in the State rested with the army 
and with Raja Gulab Singh, of Jammu. To relieve themselves of their 
embarrassments with the former, the Rani and her counsellors 
encouraged a war with the British, against whom various causes of 
complaint were alleged, and finally, the army breaking away from all 
control, crossed the Sutlej at Hari ki early in December 1845, and 
invaded the territory to which the British asserted their rights. 
Upon this followed the First Sikh War, which was ended by the 
battle of Sobraon on loth February 1846 (p. 353). the Jullundur 
Doab being annexed to the British possessions, and Kashmir being 



Ixxxviii THE TEN GURUS OF THE SIKHS India 

transferred to Gulab Singh, grandfather of the present Maharaja, upon 
payment by him of the war indemnity. The administration of the rest 
of the PanJab was placed under a council of regency on behalf of the 
minor Maharaja Dhalip Singh, subject to the advice of the Resident 
in Lahore, first Sir Henry Lawrence and then Sir Frederick Currie. 
Matters were progressing as well as could be expected when the 
incident of Multan (p. 355) occurred on 20th April 1848, upon which 
the Sikh soldiery and people rose in defence of their national cause. 
Serious operations against them were not taken till December, when, 
after unsatisfactory skirmishes at Ramnagar and Sadulpur (22nd 
November and 3rd December 1848), the Battle of Chiiianwala was 
fought on 13th January 1849 (p. 326), and the victory of Gujarat (p. 325) 
was won on 21st February. Since then the Sikhs have been among 
the most loyal subjects of the Indian Empire, of which they proved the 
main support in 1857, and provide some of' the best recruits of the 
Indian army. 

The following is a chronological table of the Sikh Gurus. Guru 
Govind refused to name a successor. He said : ‘‘ He who wishes to 
behold the Guru, let him search the Granth.'*’ 

The Ten Gurus of the Sikhs 

BORN. GURU. 

1. Nanak, founder of the Sikh sect . . . 1469 till he died, 1538 

2. Angad 1504 1 53^-1552 

3. AraarDas 1509 1552-1574 

4. Ram Das, builder of the original lake-temple 

at Amritsar . . . . . . 1534 1574-1581 

5. Arjan Mai, compiler of the Adi Granth . 1563 1581-1606 

6. Har Govind, first warlike leader . . . 1595 1606-1645 

7. Har Rai, his grandson 1630 1645-1661 

8 . Har Krishna, died at Delhi .... 1656 1661-1664 

9. Tegh Bahadur, put to death by Aurangzeb . 1622 1664-1675 

10. Govind Singh remodelled the Sikh Govern- 
ment 1666 1675-1708 

Banda (not a Guru), put to death by Bahadur Shah in 1715. 

The twelve principal Misls (confederacies), each under a Sirdar, or 
Chief, were ; — 

1. Bhangi, so called from the addiction of their leaders to bhang, a 

preparation of hemp. 

2. Nishanias, standard-bearers. 

3. Shahid, or Nihang, martyrs and zealots. 

4. Ramgarhia, from Ramgarh, at Amritsar. 

5. Nakkais, from the tract of country called Nakka, S. W. of Lahore. 

6- Ahluw^alia, from the village in which Jassa, a head of the Misl, lived. 

7, Kanheya, from a place near Lahore. 

8. Faizulpuria, or Singhpuria, from villages near Amritsar. 

g. Sukarchakia, from the name of a place : the clan of Ranjit Singh, 

10. Dulelwala, from a village near Lahore. 

11. Krora Singhia, or Panjgarhia. from name of leader. 

12. Phulkian, from Phul, the progenitor of Nabha, Patiala, and Jind. 



Introd. 


THE MAHRATTAS 


Ixxxix 


The Sikhs are known now either as Malwai (which comprises 
those S. and E. of the Sutlej and Beas) or Manjha (lying N. and W. 
of these, and principally in the Bari Doab between the Beas and 
Sutlej and the Ravi). They are represented among the ruling Chiefs 
of India by the three Phuikian houses, of which the Maharaja of 
Patiala and the Rajas of Jind and Nabha are the heads, and by the 
Rajas of Kapurthala and Faridkot, the first three and the last in the 
Malwai country and the fourth in the Jullundur Doab. The present 
ruling family of the Jammu and Kashmir State, w'hich is Dogra 
Rajput by descent, is no longer Sikh by religion. It should be 
remembered that a Sikh is not necessarily born of that religion, but 
IS baptized into it when of adult age, and that in consequence some 
of the sons of Sikhs fall back into the Hindu religion by simply not 
taking the pahal^ as the initiatory rite, usually performed at the 
Amritsar temple, is called. The greater proportion of the Sikhs 
are called Sahijdhari (those who live at ease and practise trade or 
agriculture), and are not baptized at all. They do not consider it 
necessary to wear the habiliments of the Sikhs. 

In his work, in six volumes, on The Sikh Religion^ i 909 > Mr M. 
A. Macauliffe wrote — ^^To sum up some of the moral and political 
merits of the Sikh religion : It prohibits idolatry, hypocrisy, caste 
exclusiveness, the concremation of widows, the immurement of 
women, the use of wine and other intoxicants, tobacco-smoking, 
infanticide, slander, pilgrimages to the sacred rivers and tanks 
of the Hindus ; and it inculcates loyalty, gratitude for all favours 
received, philanthropy, justice, impartiality, truth, honesty, and 
all the moral and domestic virtues known to the holiest citizens of 
any country.” According to the census of 1911, the Sikhs in India 
numbered 2,171,908, of w'hom 2,093,804 were in the Panjab, 30.345 
the N.W. Frontier Province, and 11,887 in the Bombay Presidency. 

THE MAHRATTAS (also MARATHAS) 

Another remarkable people in India who deserve brief notice are 
the Mahrattas, who derive their name from the country of Maharashtra, 
which they occupied in the early Aryan days. They had been noted 
as a fighting race in the armies of Ahmadnagar and Bijapur before 
they came prominently to notice as the opponents of the Mughals in 
the person of their famous leader Sivaji (1627-80), who set the 
example of ravaging distant territories by his raid on Surat in 1664 
(p. 164;. His son Sambhaji was captured, blinded, and executed by 
the Emperor Aurangzeb ; and his grandson Sahu, who was brought 
up by one of the daughters of that Emperor, proved when released 
to have none of the hardy Mahratta qualities, and abandoned all 



XC * MAHRATTA DEVELOPMENT India 

power to his Minister, a Konkan Brahman of the name of Balaji 
Vishvanath (who became the first Peshwa), and sank to the rank of 
Raja of Satara. This house came to an end in 1848, but the Kolhapur 
Chief still represents the family of Sivaji, though not in direct 
descent from that great leader. The first Peshwa marched to Delhi 
in 1718, and in 1730 obtained the right of “chauth” — the famous 
Mahratta demand of one-fourth of the revenues of every country 
which they could dominate — over the Deccan. The second Peshwa, 
Baji Rao I. (1721-40), seized Malwa, which was ceded to the 
Mahrattas under his successor, Balaji Baji Rao (1740-61), *under 
whom Janoji, son of Raghoji Bhonsla, the Chief of Nagpur, and then 
the leading Mahratta feudatory^ invaded Bihar and Bengal, and 
obtained a cession of Orissa, and of the chauth of Bengal from the 
Murshidabad Viceroy, Ali Vardi Khan. During his life, which is 
believed to have been terminated by grief at the crushing defeat of 
the Mahrattas at Panipat by Ahmad Shah Durani, the Gaekwar and 
the Holkar and Scindia Chiefs came to the front ; and his son 
Madhu Rao (1761-72) was rather the head of five separate branches 
of the Mahratta people than of the people as a whole. The Gaekwars 
extended their power through Gujarat and the north of Bombay, and 
Scindia and Holkar established themselves in Malwa, and gradually 
enlarged their authority over Rajputana and the Ganges Doab, with 
the capitals of Agra and Delhi. The Mahrattas overran Rohilkhand 
(1771-73), which was the remote cause of the famous Rohilla 
War. The titular Emperor of India, Shah Alam, placed himself 
in the hands of the Mahrattas in 1771, and remained under the 
control of Scindia till 1803. The sixth Peshwa, Madhu Rao Narayan, 
(1774-95), who succeeded as* an infant, was practically superseded 
by his Minister, Nana Farnavis ; it was the war of succession between 
him and his uncle Raghoba which led to the first interference by the 
British in Mahratta affairs and the First Mahratta War in 1775-82. 
The last Peshwa, Baji Rao 11., nominally ruled from 1795-1818. The 
Mahratta Princes forced him into war with the English, and in 
the campaigns which ensued in 1803-4 Scindia and the Bhonsla 
Chief were destroyed in the South at Assaye (23rd September 1803) 
and Argaum (28th November 1803), while Scindia^s forces in the North 
were crushed at Delhi (nth September 1803) and Laswari (ist 
November 1803), and Jaswant Rao Holkar was defeated at Dig 
(23rd December 1804), and finally compelled to submit. The last 
general Mahratta war took place in 1817-18, in which the Peshwa 
was defeated at Kirki (5th November 1817), the Bhonsla Chief at 
Sitabaldi f26th to 27th November i8i7)> near Nagpur, and Holkar at 
Mahidpur (21st December 1817). The Peshwa was deported to Bithur, 
near Cawnpore, and died there in 1853 ; his adopted son, the Nana 



Introd. 


THE PARSIS 


XCl 


Sahib, stands for ever infamous as the author of the Cawnpore 
j ^ massacre of 27th June 1857. It will be seen from the above brief 
i narrative that, when the British commenced to acquire inland 
territories in India, the Mahrattas were the dominant -people of 
^ the country from the Kistna to Delhi and from Gujarat to Orissa ; 

U and there can be no doubt that but for British interposition they 

could have extended their power ov^er Hyderabad and Mysore 
to the extreme South of India, just as they had already occupied 
I ianjore, and over Bengal and Bihar in the North. Unlike the Sikhs, 

I the Mahrattas have lost their warlike qualities, and are now mostly 

a race of sturdy agriculturists, though some of them are highly 
educated and advanced politicians ; their numbers, according to the 
last census, were about 3,700,000. The Bhonsla House died out in 
1853 on the death of the successor of Appa Sahib (p. 125), who had 
been deposed. The principal Chiefs of the Baroda House have been 
Damaji Gaekwar, the founder (died 1721), Damaji II. (1731-70), 
Sayaji Rao I., Khande Rao (1857), and Mulhar Rao, who was deposed 
in 1875. The present Chief is His Highness Maharaja Sir Sayaji 
Rao III., G.C.S.I. (born 1863, adopted 1875). Of Scindia family 
the most famous rulers have been the founder Ranoji, Mahdaji 
Scindia (died 1794}, his grandnephew Daulat Rao Scindia (died 1827), 
and (battles of Panniar and Maharajpur,. both on 29th December 
^^43) Ja-ia-ji Rao Scindia (died 1886). The present Chief is Major- 
General Maharaja Sir Madho Rao Scindia, G.C.S.I. (born 1876)- 
Fhe principal Chiefs of the Holkar House have been the founder, 
Mulhar Rao, who retreated from Panipat, Ahalya Bai (1765-95) (pp. 
123-.^, Jas want Rao Holkar (died 1811), Mulhar Rao Holkar (died 
1833), Baiza Bai, regent, and Tukaji Rao Holkar II, (died 1886). The 
present Chief is Maharaja Tukaji Holkar III. (born 1890). The 
actual Mahratta population in these three .States is very small — viz., 
m Baroda 17,000, in Gwalior 12,000, and in Indore 6000. 

THE PARSIS 

I'he Parsis, foimeiiy inhabitants of Persia, are the modern 
followers of Zoroaster, and now form a numerous and influential 
portion of the population of Surat and Bombay. Of their total 
number — 100,096 in India in 1911 — 80,980 were in the Bombay 
Presidency and nearly 14,000 in Native States, of whom nearly 8000 
were in the Baroda State, nearly 2600 in Bombay States. 

When the Sassanide Empire was destroyed by the Muhammadans 
^n 651 A.D. the Zoroastrians were persecuted, and some of them 
fled(c. 717) to India-first to Diu, in Kathiawar, then to Sanjan, about 
“5 m. S. of Daman, where the ruler of Gujarat became their protector, 


xcii THE PARS I FESTIVALS India 

and for some hundreds of years they lived there and in the neighbour- 
hood in peace and quiet, finally making Navsari their headquarters. 
In the 1 6th century they suffered considerably from Muham- 
madan persecution until the time of the British occupation. The 
sacred fire, which Zoroaster was said to have brought from heaven, 
is kept burning in consecrated spots, and temples are built over 
subterranean fires. The priests tend the fires on the altars, chanting 
hymns and burning incense. They do not worship the sun or fire, as 
is often commonly supposed. “ God, according to Parsi faith, is the 
emblem of glory, refulgence, and light, and in this view a Parsi while 
engaged in prayer is directed to stand before the fire, or to direct his 
face towards the sun, as the most proper symbols of the Almighty.” 
There are fire-temples in Bombay for public worship. The Dasturs 
are their high priests. A partially successful attempt was made 
in 1852 to restore the creed of Zoroaster, which had become 
corrupted by Hindu practices, to its original purity. In order not to 
pollute the elements, which they adore, the Parsis neither burn nor 
bury their dead, but expose their corpses to be devoured by birds 
(see “Towers of Silence,” ^ Bombay, p. 20). There has long been a 
marked desire on the part of the Parsis to adapt themselves to the 
manners and customs of Europeans while in many respects maintain- 
ing their own scrupulously. The public and private schools of 
Bombay are largely attended by their children. They largely follow 
commercial pursuits, and several of the wealthiest merchants of India 
belong to this community. Their public spirit and charity are well 
known. Benevolence is their first principle, and is fully practised. 

Parsi Months 


I'here are twelve months, of thirty days each, to which five days 
are added at the end. They approximate as below to the English 
months- 


1. Farvardin, September. 

2. Ardibihisht, October. 

3. Khurdad, November. 

4. Tir, December. 

5. Amardad, January. 

6. Sharivar, February, 


7. Mihr, March. 

S. Avan, April. 

9. Adar, May. 

10. Deh, June. 

11. Bahman, July. 

12. Asfandiyai, August. 


The Parsi Festivals 

Pateti, New Year’s Day — the ist of Farvardin. The Parsis 
rise earlier than usual, put on new clothes, and pray at the fire- 


^ The vernacular najiie of ihest stiuctuic^ ib DoUhaia. 



Introd. 


ARCHITECTURE 


xciii 


temples. They then visit their friends and join hands, distribute 
alms, and give clothes to servants and others. This day is celebrated 
m honour of the accession of Yezdajird to the throne of Persia^, 
632 A.D. 

Farvardin-Jasan^ on the 19th of Farvardin, on which ceremonies 
are perforrned in honour of the dead, called Farohars, or ‘‘ protectors.’* 
There are eleven other Jasans in honour of various angels. 

Khurdad-sal^ the birthday of Zoroaster, v\ho is said to have been 
born 1200 B.c. at the city of Rai, or Ragha, near Teheran ; but the da,te 
of Zoroaster has not been authentically fixed. 

Ja 7 nshidi-Nauroz^ held on the 21st of Mihr. It dates from the 
time of Jamshid, and the Parsis ought to commence their New Year 
from it. 

Zurioshte Diso^ held on the nth of Deh in remembrance of the 
death of Zartasht, or Zoroaster, in Bactria. 

The Muktad^ held on the last ten days of the Zoroastrian year, 
including the last five days of the last month and the five intercalary 
days called the Gatha Gahambars. A clean place in the house is 
adorned with fruits and flowers, and silver or brass vessels filled with 
water are placed there, and ceremonies are performed in honour 
of the souls of the dead. 


ARCHITECTURE 

Style and decoration in architecture are largely conditioned by the 
character of the materials employed. In primitive India, as among 
the poorer classes of to-day, the materials most commonly in use were 
mud or mud bricks, bamboo canes, and other kinds of wood. The 
simplest kinds of dwellings were constructed of screens of bamboos 
inwoven with palm branches or the like, the roofs being either fiat or 
arched. In the latter case the bamboos were lashed together at the 
apex and tied in near the lower end, thus forming a singularly strong 
framework of curvilinear form, while the walls were strengthened to 
resist the outward thrust. In other cases the walls were constructed 
of unbaked brick or mud, and the latter material was also used as 
a covering for the fiat roofs or for plastering the screens of the walls on 
the “wattle and daub” principle. Later on cut timbers came to 
be used in the more pretentious dwellings, and afforded opportunities 
for the development of that exuberant surface decoration in which the 
genius of India has always excelled. No kiln-burnt bricks have yet 
been found of a date earlier than the 5th century B.c., though it is 
likely enough that their manufacture was understood long before then, 
particularly in the N.W. of India. On the other hand, the potter’s 



xciv ARCHITFXTURE India 

art was practised in India from time immemorial, and concrete made 
of broken potsherds and kankar lime was employed for floors at least 
as early as the 8 th century B.C., while roof tiles of terra-cotta were 
fashioned quite a century before the art of stone-cutting was practised. 
Lime mortar was used in pre- Muhammad an monuments in Kashmir 
two or three centuries B.C. 

These materials left their character deeply and permanently 
impressed on Indian architecture. From the use of the bamboo came 
the curvilinear type of roof, which was afterwards reproduced in cut 
timber and subsequently in stone, and from which was evolved the 
familiar chaitya arch used over doorways and windows. Log capitals 
were imitated in stone, the more finished timbering of walls and 
roofs and gateways in the same materials, every detail, down to the 
nail heads, being copied with sedulous care and accuracy by the 
masons of later days. As a protection against white ants wooden 
posts were set, as they still sometimes are, in gharas^ or jars of 
earthenware, and from these resulted the ‘‘pot and foliage” base, 
so beautifully developed in the Gupta age. Ignorance of the use of 
mortar made the construction of true arches and domes impracticable 
in the pre-Muhammadan period, but arch and dome forms were not 
unknowm, and were imitated both in brick and stone, usually by 
corbelling the masonry. A striking illustration of the influence exerted 
by brick as contrasted with wood construction is to be found in the 
pillars of the cave temples. In the earliest examples the stone pillars 
are manifestly copied from wooden and are relatively slender, though 
amply thick enough for their purpose. In the later examples, on the 
other hand, the pillars are heavy and cumbersome — not because extra 
strength was required, nor yet, probably, in order to save labour, but 
because they w^ere copied from the brick-in-miid pillars of famous 
structural viharas^ which necessarily required to be much thicker 
in proportion to their height than columns of stone. 

This close adherence to tradition constitutes the gravest fault 
of Indian architecture ; for it has led to the perpetuation of primitive 
forms long after they have lost their raisofi deire, and has deterred the 
builders from adapting their ideas to new conditions. Conservatism 
in art is of value in so far as it results in preserving what is appropriate 
and beautiful ; it becomes a defect when it leads to the atrophy of 
effort and inventiveness. 

Apart from the walls built of ponderous Cyclopean masonry and 
a few dwellings of the same character at Rajagriha, the earliest 
structures known to exist in India are the houses recently excavated 
at Bhita (p. 44), which date back to the 4 th century B.c. They 
were constructed of burnt brick laid in mud, with brick and plaster 
floors, timbered ceilings, and pitched— probably curvilinear— roofs. 



Introd, 


ARCHITECTURE 


xcv 


protected by tiles and adorned with finials of terra-cottad their plan 
being similar to that of the Buddhist monasteries, of which they 
are manifestly the prototype. Dressed stone work does not appear to 
have been introduced into India until the time of Asoka (250 B.c.) ; 
but the few examples which we possess belonging to that period, 
namely, the famous pillars or lais of Asoka, the caves in the Barabar 
Hills, and a monolithic rail at Sarnath, display in the precision 
with which they were cut and in their exquisite finish a mastery over 
material such as was never afterwards equalled by Indian masons, 
and which even the marble work of the Parthenon does not surpass. 
This complete mastery over material, coupled with the Perso- 
Hellenic character of the sculptures which adorn the /a^s^ leaves little 
room for doubt that the monuments in question were the handiwork of 
Asiatic Greeks, or of Indian craftsmen working under their immediate 
direction. 

From this time onwards stone came more and more into 
prominence, and in the Sunga period (180-70 B.c.) was being freely 
used by the Buddhists for their sacred monuments. To this epoch 
belong the famous railings of Bharhut, Buddh Gaya, and Sanchi — all 
of them manifestly in imitation of wooden models, and adorned with 
sculptures which, in spite of the introduction of many Western- 
Asiatic motifs, exhibit a truly indigenous character. Of these three 
railings, that at Bharhut is the most primitive, that at Sanchi the most 
developed ; and it is interesting to observe how rapidly the art of 
sculpture improved in the relatively short space of time which inter- 
vened between them. The reliefs of both series are simple and 
naturalistic in style, appealing directly to the feelings by their human 
sympathy. In the former, however, the carving is wooden to a degree, 
the figures “frontal” and archaic, and the scenes lacking in composi- 
tion. In the latter the modelling of the figures becomes free and 
plastic, there is vitality in their movements, more feeling for decora- 
tive effect in composing them, and in general more esthetic beauty. 
This rapid artistic development is also remarkably well illustrated in 
the Mathura School, where a comparison of the sculptures of this 
epoch, few though they are, is the more significant in that they were 
produced in one and the same place. 

Contemporary with these Buddhist lafs and railings are the 
earlier rock-cut temples of Western and Eastern India, which, however, 
do not belong exclusively to the Buddhists. These rock-cut temples 
are mainly of two types, the so-called chaifyas, or chapels, and the 
viharas^ or monasteries, in addition to which stupas^ or dagobas^- 

^ For an illustration of a tiled roof of this kind, see Cunningham, Stupa 
of Bharhut, PI. xxvi,, 7. 

- = the “ pagoda” of Burma and the dagoba of Ceylon. 


X€V1 


ARCHITECTURE 


India 


as they are sometimes termed, are often formed out of solid rock. In 
addition to the chapels of Mauryan date in Bihar alluded to above, 
notable examples of chaityas are to be found at Karli, Bhaja, Bedsa, 
Nasik, Ellora, Ajanta, and Kanheri. In plan, as in purpose, they are 
remarkably similar to the early Christian basilicas^ being divided by 
two rows of columns into a nave and two narrow side-aisles, which are 
continued around the apse at the farther end. The viharas usually 
consist of a rectangular hall with cells around and, in the later 
examples, a shrine in the back wall, the roof being frequently supported 
by columns, often richly carved. In determining the relative age 
of both chaitya halls and viharas^ it may be taken as a general 
rule that the nearer they approximate to wooden construction the 
older they are. Thus in the chaitya halls at Bhaja and Kondana, 
which are two of the oldest, the facade screens in front of the chapels 
are actually made of timber, the excavators not having yet attempted 
to reproduce them in stone ; while at Bhaja also, as well as at Karli, 
Bedsa, and Kanheri, wooden nbs are employed beneath the soffit 
of the vaulting, as if the solid rock above required support ! But this 
index of age must not be pressed too far ; for it is not to be presumed 
that an equal rate of progress was simultaneously maintained by 
all the builders ; and other structural and decorative features, there- 
fore, must be taken into account — such as the leaning of the pillars, 
which at first slope inwards but afterwards become vertical, and 
the plastic character of the sculpture, the evolution of which is 
pursued along clear and definite lines. 

The form of the original structural chaityas and viharas could, 
until recently, only be surmised from the cave temples and monolithic 
raihas^ but not long ago the Archaeological Department discovered a 
complete chaitya hall of brick at Ter, in the Deccan, and another of 
stone has still more, recently been found in the Almora district of the 
United Provinces. The excavations, too, of the Archaeological 
Department at Sarnath, Kasia, and other places, now leave little room 
for doubt as to the design of the ancient viharas^ while at the same 
time they discount the theory propounded by Fergusson that the 
structural vihara took a pyramidal form like the square rathas 
at Mamallapuram. 

The foreign influences discernible in Indian architecture in the 
Mauryan and Sunga periods, and which must have been strong in 
the N. of the peninsula during the rule of the Greek Kings of 
the Panjab, received a fresh and powerful stimulus during the first 
centuries before and after Christ, when a Hellenistic school of art was 
established in the N.W. frontier. This school, known as the 
‘ Gandharan ” from the ancient Province of that name, was devoted 
exclusively, so far as is known, to the service of Buddhism. Its 



Introd. ARCHITECTURE xcvii 

architecture is chiefly characterised by a diaper-patterned masonry, in 
which massive blocks of stone are employed, with layers of small 
stones or bricks to fill the interstices between them ; by the use of 
rounded or pointed arches constructed on the corbel system ; by the 
I free use of classical forms and motifs, such as the Corinthian capital 
j and the undulating garland ; and by the great wealth of decorative 
bas-reliefs illustrating the life and previous births of the Buddha. 
It is in the Gandhara School that the earliest representations of 
Buddha were evolved, and it was, no doubt, largely due to the 
immediate popularity which iconism won among the Buddhists that 
the influence of Hellenistic art spread so widely and rapidly in India. 
Even before the time of the Kushan Emperor Kanishka we find the 
wave of this influence spreading over Hindustan and permeating the 
indigenous school of Muttra (Mathura), while a little later it makes 
itself felt at Amravati, in Madras, though its force was largely spent 
when it reached that distant place. 

With the rise of the Gupta Empire in the 4th century A.D., 
Indian architecture and Indian art entered on a new phase. Under 
the foreign domination of the Scythian rulers, and during the 
troublous times which ensued on their downfall, indigenous talent had 
been largely stifled and suppressed ; but with the achievement of 
political independence there followed a remarkable intellectual 
revival, which affected architecture and the plastic and pictorial arts 
no less than literature, and which is comparable in many respects to 
the Renaissance that Europe experienced in the 15th century. The 
spirit of the age, it need hardly be said, was not the same as it had 
been four centuries before, and the changes which had come over the 
social life and religious ideas of the people in the meantime are 
clearly reflected in their architecture. The naive simplicity of earlier 
days now gives way to more conventional expression ; the natural 
yields to the ideal, the humane to the spiritual ; but the artistic feeling 
of the people has lost none of its force, and a new charm is imparted 
to it by the very restraint which the intellectuality of the age has 
imposed. The Gupta epoch, indeed, which extends from the 4th to 
the 7 th century A.D., is mainly remarkable for its intellectual treatment 
of architectural forms, for the appreciation shown of plain surfaces 
and of the contrast of light and shade, and most of all, perhaps, for 
the vitality and freshness of its plastic and pictorial decorations, 
which, in spite of their richness, are used with almost classical refine- 
ment and restraint. 

The best preserved monuments of the Gupta epoch are to be 
found among the cave temples of Western and Central India {e,g,y 
Nos. 16, 17, and 19, at Ajanta, several of the later Buddhist caves at 
Ellora, and those at Udayagiri, near Besnagar), in the carved brick 


xcviii ARCHITECTURK India 

temples of Bhitargaon and other places in the Cawnpore district, 
decorated with spirited terra-cotta reliefs, in the flat-roofed temples at 
Tigawa and Deogarh, and in the Dhamek stupa at Sarnath,^ wher« 
recent excavations have thrown a flood of light on the art of this 
period. The type of flat-roofed temple has usually been regarded as 
the peculiar product of the Gupta builders, but the flat roof is too 
common a feature in the East to be ascribed to the invention of any 
particular epoch, and it is rather in the treatment of mouldings and 
door frames and in other decorative details that the Gupta character 
of these structures manifests itself. As a fact, almost every form of 
roof construction, from the ancient chaitya ridge roof to the Northern 
steeple, must have been employed in the Gupta times. The powerful 
and vitalising effect of Gupta art spread far and wide over the whole 
Indian peninsula, and to countries far beyond, long surviving the 
dynasty from which it takes its name. Indeed, it is safe to say that 
no phase of art has ever made such a deep and enduring impres- 
sion upon the countries of the middle and farther East. In the 
Himalayan tracts it is found vigorously flourishing in Chamba, Kulu, 
Mandi, and other regions towards the West, where numerous temples 
of stone, or of stone and timber combined, exhibit in their decorative 
carvings and other details the closest analogy with Gupta monu- 
ments of the plains. In Kashmir and the Salt range it combined 
with classical elements, derived probably from the older Hellenistic 
art of Gandhara, to produce a local style, of which the most 
characteristic features are high pitched roofs, gables, trefoil arches, 
and quasi-Doric columns. The most notable example of this style is 
the well-known Temple of the Sun at Martand, near Islamabad, which 
was erected about the middle of the 8th century by King Lalitaditya. 
The more ornate temple at Avantipur is about a century, and the 
miniature shrine at Payer about two centuries, later. 

From the many and various styles of architecture which were 
taking shape during the Gupta epoch there emerged in the mediaeval 
ages, besides a number of subsidiary varieties, three leading types, 
each of which produced monuments of imposing grandeur and 
magnificence, though their ornateness contrasts unfavourably as a 
rule with the greater refinement of earlier decoration. Of these three 
styles the so-called Indo-Aryan prevailed over Hindustan, being rarely 
found South of the Tapti and Mahanadi rivers. Its most salient feature 
is the curvilinear steeple divided into vertical bands, which rose above 
the square sanctuary, and was frequently repeated on a smaller scale 
in other parts of the building, or in miniature by way of decorative 
device. The purest and, withal, the most imposing examples of this 

1 Wrongly ascribed by Fergusson to a much later date. 



Introd, 


ARCHITECTURE 


XCIX 


Style are to be found among the temples at Bhubaneswar, in Orissa, 
which, numbering, as they do, several hundreds, and ranging in date 
from the 9th or loth to the 13th century, aiford a remarkably instructive 
illustration of the progress of the style. Another very important 
group at Khajraho, in Bundelkhand, includes buildings dating 
I mainly from the loth and iith centuries, and belonging to Jains as 
well as to Hindus. Though built on a less pretentious scale than 
those of Orissa, they undoubtedly surpass them in perfection of 
symmetry and elegance of details. 

A singularly lovely variety of this Indo-Aryan architecture is 
commonly known as the Jain style, though as a fact it was used 
indiscriminately by the Hindus and Jains alike throughout Western 
’ India. It is distinguished by the free use of columns to obtain a 
more spacious area in the interior of the mandapams^ by the employ- 
ment of strut brackets as an additional support to the lintels, and by 
the exquisitely fine carving of ceilings and columns, which are 
elaborated with a delicacy that has never, perhaps, been surpassed. 
The most perfect, and highly ornate models of this style are the two 
Jain temples on Mount Abu — the one built by Vhmala Sah in 1031 a.U., 
the other, two centuries later, by Tejpal. Other admirable models 
are at Nagda, near Udaipur, where the style is employed by Hindus 
and Jains alike, and at Girnar and Satrunjaya, in Gujarat. 

In sharp, clear contrast with the architecture of the North stands 
the Southern or “ Dravidian ” style, as it has been suitably termed 
from its prevalence among the peoples who speak the Dravidian 
tongues. As it is a distinguishing characteristic of Indo-Aryan 
architecture that its most prominent lines tend to the perpendicular, 
so It is a characteristic of Dravidian that they tend to the horizontal ; 
and while in the former style the most conspicuous feature is the 
curvilinear steeple, in the latter it is the pyramidal tower, rising 
storey upon storey in horizontal bands, each bounded by straight 
lines and crowned by a chaitya or domical roof. In the later 
examples of this class the main shrine is enclosed by a quadrangle, 
or by several such quadrangles, set one within the other, which are 
entered through lofty gateways ox gopura ms ^ and which often enclose 
great corridors ox prakaras^ pillared halls, and minor shrines. 

The rise of this style is first traceable among the rock-cut rathas 
at Mamaliapuram, on the s,ea-shore south of Madras, which are to be 
ascribed to about the 7th century a.d. These monolithic rathas are 
either square or oblong in plan, the square ones being the prototype 
of the vimanas^ or temples proper of Southern India, while the oblong, 
which are manifestly modelled on the design of the Buddhist chaitya 
halls, subsequently develop into the gxeat gopi^rams of later times. 
The next valuable landmarks in the history of this style are furnished 



c 


ARCHITECTURE 


India 


by the Kailasanatha and Vaikuntha Perumal temples at Conjeeveram, 
belonging to the first half of the 8th century, and by the Virupaksha 
temple at Pattadakal, built in the. reign of Vikramaditya II. (733-747 
A.D.), while a little later comes the rock-cut temple of Kailasa, at 
Ellora, far to the North of the Tamil country. 

A further stage in the development of Dravidian architecture was 
reached under the Chola Kings, Raja Raja and his son Rajendra 
(a.D. 985-1035), the first of whom is responsible for the Great Temple 
at Tanjore, the second for a similar temple on a smaller scale at 
Gangaikondapuram, in the Trichinopoly district. These and the vast 
edifices of later date, with their spacious quadrangles and mighty 
gopurams^ form, to quote Fergusson, ‘^as extensive and in some 
respects as remarkable a group of buildings as is to be found in 
Provinces of similar extent in any part of the world — Egypt, perhaps, 
alone excepted ; but they equal even the Egyptian in extent."’ 
They consist, as a rule, of a square base, ornamented with tall, thin 
pilasters, and containing the vhnana or shrine, in front of which is 
frequently a hall (mandapam\ or even two, though tl^is feature is not 
essential. Over the shrine is the pyramidal sikhara, or tower, referred 
to above, always storeyed, and crowned with a circular or polygonal 
dome. gopurams are placed at the entrances to the surrounding 

courts, and face the cardinal points, their general design being that of 
the shrine, though their width is about double their depth, and their 
proportions frequently far more imposing than the latter. In the 
case of the Great Temple at Tanjore, the sikhara over the shrine, 
rising in eleven storeys to a height of 190 ft, entirely dominates the 
gateways, but at the Srirangam Temple, near Trichinopoly, the con- 
verse is the case, the relatively insignificant shrine being overmastered 
by the gopurams of the courts, each of which as one passes outwards 
is more lofty and decorative than the last. Remarkable as it may 
seem, this arrangement, which is characteristic of very many later 
Dravidian temples, is the natural outcome of a perfectly logical 
development ; for the shrine, being the most essential structure, was 
the first to be erected, and as its fame and wealth increased court 
after court was added round it, each more imposing and magnificent 
than the last, the successive stages of building being traceable in the 
plans and details of the structures. 

Intermediate between these two main styles — the Indo-Aryan 
of the North and the Dravidian of the South— comes the architecture 
of the Deccan, which prevailed mainly over the basin of the Godavari, 
though examples of it are found outside this area and even as 
distantly remote as the Himalayas. This is the style to which the 
term Chalukyan was given by Fergusson, though as a fact its most 
typical and perfect models were erected under the Hoysala and not 



Introd. BUDDHIST ARCHITECTURE ci 

under the Chalukya rulers of the Deccan, It was evolved partly from 
the Southern, partly from the Northern style, and in its infancy 
exhibits a close approximation to the one or the other of these, 
though, speaking generally, it is nearer akin to the Dravidian than 
to the IndO'Aryan, preserving, in particular, the general plan adopted 
in the shrines of the former type. Later on it gradually acquired 
distinctive traits of its own. The plan becomes polygonal and star- 
shaped instead of quadrangular ; a high and richly-carved base 
following the same outline, is added to the temple ; and the high 
storeyed sikhara of the roof is converted into a low pyramid, in 
which the horizontal treatment of the South is combined with the 
perpendicular treatment of the North. On the early evolution of this 
architecture useful light is thrown by the temples at Aihole and 
Pattadakal in the South of the Bombay Presidency, where the cradle 
of this style is perhaps to be located ; and in the same Presidency 
some fine examples of the more mature Deccan type exist at Dambal, 
Rattihalli, Tiliwalli, and Hangal. In Hyderabad, too, there are some 
magnificent monuments of this class at Ittagi, Nilanga, Buchanapalli, 
Warangal, and many other places. But it is in Mysore, among 
the temples at Hallabid, Belur, Somnathpur, Nuggehalli, and else- 
where, that the style is found in its full perfection. The treatment 
of details in these monuments is extremely rich and varied, and the 
fancy displayed in the sculptured decoration wildly exuberant. Yet 
wonderful as this decoration is, and eloquent of the infinite pains and 
labour expended on its production, the paramount beauty of these 
temples is due almost more to their grace and symmetry and to the 
singularly happy proportions maintained between their various 
component parts ; while the ever changing play of light and shade on 
the broken surfaces of their walls and roofs adds a charm unmatched 
even in Gothic art. 

Religion has so great an influence upon Architecture that the 
different styles in India may be most conveniently classified as 
Buddhist, Jain, Brahman, and ^Muhammadan. 

Buddhist , — Though Gautama taught in the 6th century B.c., his 
religion made little progress before its adoption by the great Asoka, 
who reigned from 272 to 231 B.C. The palaces, hails, and temples 
which may have existed before the time of Asoka were made of 
wood, and have perished. There was no stone architecture in India 
before that date, and all the monuments known to us for five or six 
centuries after it are Buddhist. 

Every sanctified Buddhist locality was marked by the erection of 
a tope (stupa) commemorating some holy event or containing relics, 

•n which case the tope was called a dagoba. The relics of a dagoba 
were usually contained in a sort of box or case at the summit of it 



Cii BUDDHIST ARCHITECTURE India 

called a tee (or //). Older even than the tope was the memorial pillar, 
called stambha, oi hit, if it was carved out of one stone ; these pillars 
bore Buddhist emblems — such as lions or wheels — and were after- 
wards converted in various parts of India into pedestals for lamps or 
vehicles of the gods, and the like. Rails are found surrounding 
topes, or enclosing sacred trees, pillars, etc. The chaityas, assembly 
halls or temples, correspond to the churches of the Christian religion : 
the viharas are monasteries (see plans at pp. 105 and 464). 

The best known topes are those at Sanchi (p. 140) and Sarnath 
(p. 71). There are also a number of them scattered over the 
ancient province of Gandhara, the capital of which was Peshawar 
'—especially at Manikyala (p. 329). In Ceylon there are topes or 
dagobas at Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa (pp. 681 and 687). The 
lats, or pillars, stood in front of, or beside, each gateway of every tope, 
and in front of each chaitya (pp. 462-3). Many of these were erected 
by Asoka, and two of these are still in existence at Delhi, and a more 
complete specimen at Allahabad. (The Iron Pillar in the mosque 
at Old Delhi is not Buddhist, but seems to be dedicated to Vishnu.) 
The most interesting rails are at Sanchi and Buddh Gaya ; the 
remains of the Bharhut rail are at Calcutta, and of the Amaravati 
(p. 459) rail in the British and Madras Museums. There are fine 
examples of torans, or gateways, with the rail at Sanchi. 

Our knowledge of the chaitya chapels, or temples, and the viharas, 
or monasteries, is derived mainly from the rock-cut examples (but 
see pp. 141-2). This method of working is easier and less expensive 
than the process of building. For a cave nothing but excavation is 
required ; while for a building the stone has to be quarried, trans- 
ported, — perhaps a long distance, — and then carved and erected. 
According to Mr Fergusson,^ the complete excavation of a temple, 
both externally as well as internally, would cost only about one-tenth 
of the expenditure necessary for building ; and the Buddhist caves 
were still cheaper, as the rock was not cut away all round, the in- 
terior chamber alone being e.xcavated. Examples of chaityas are to 
be found at Karli, Bhaja, and Bedsa (pp. 462-5), Bihar (pp. 50-1), Nasik, 
Ellora, Ajanta, and Kanheri (p. 26). They usually consist of a long 
excavation, separated by two rows of columns into a nave, and two 
narrow side aisles. At the farther end of the cave is either a small 
tope or a figure of Buddha, behind which also the colonnade runs : 
and in the front wall over the entrance-door is a large horse-shoe 
window, which allows the light to fall directly on the tope, or image. 
A vihara is usually a large rectangular hall, with cells off it round the 
sides, and a shrine chapel in the back wall, i he hall is commonly 


J thsiory of Indian and Jiaiieni Ankucctnre, i, 34^. 



Introd. 


^AIN ARCHITECTURIt ciii 

borne by columns, often richly carved, and is approached by a 
veranda ; and in some cases it had a forecourt in front of this. In 
a few instances these halls consisted of two, and even three, storeys. 
The most notable specimens are at Udayagiri and Khandagiri 
(pp. 445, 447), Bhaja and Bedsa, Ajanta (p. 56), Nasik, Kanheri and 
Ellora, and at Jamalgarhi and Takhtd-bahi, near Peshawar, 

Among the most characteristic details of Buddhist sculpture are the 
patterns representing rails and horse-shoe windows, the figures of 
Naga devotees over-canopied by cobra hoods, and probably intended 
to represent aboriginal residents of India, and scenes of worship (by 
animals as well as by human beings), of topes, sacred trees, and 
emblems of the Buddhist religion — the wheel, trident, swastika cross, 
etc., which also recur in the decoration generally. 

The architecture of the Buddhists proper was succeeded 
by that of the Jains^ who were great builders. Unlike the Buddhists, 
they were not great excavators, though some examples of their cave- 
work exist at Ellora. The characteristic Jain feature is the horizontal 
archway, which avoids the strain from the outward thrust of a true 
radiating arch. Indeed, with the exception of some specimens of the 
time of Akbar, no radiating arch exists in any Buddhist, Jain, or 
Hindu temple in India up to the present day. Another Jain feature 
is the carved bracket form of capital, which, springing from the pillars 
at about two-thirds of their height, extends to the architraves, and 
forms a sort of diagonal strut to support them. The leading idea of 
the plan of a Jain temple was a number of columns arranged in squares 
(see pp. 2 10-2 1 1 ). Their domes, like their arches, were built horizon- 
tally, on eight pillars forming an octagon, with four external pillars at 
the angles to form a square. The lateral pressure of a dome built on 
the radiating plan by the Roman, Byzantine, or Gothic architects 
prevents the use of elegant pillars, great cylinders with heavy abut- 
ments being necessary. The construction of the Jain domes, being 
horizontal, allows of more variety than can be given to the vertical 
nbs of Roman or Gothic models, and has rendered some of the 
Indian domes the most exquisite specimens of elaborate roofing that 
can anywhere be seen. The Indian dome allows the use of pendants 
from the centre, and these have a lightness and elegance never 
>magined in Gothic art. On the other hand, they are necessarily 
small, and require large stones, while a dome on the radiating 
principle can be built of small bricks. The Jains often built their 
temples in groups, or cities of temples, as at Palitana (p. 202), 
I^arasnath (p. 53), Girnar (p. 209), Mount Abu (p. i8i), and 
Khajraho (p. 160). Their love of the picturesque led them to construct * 
their cities sometimes on hill-tops, as at Mount Abu, and some- 
times in deep and secluded valleys, d’he two towers of Fame and of 



civ INDO-ARYAN ARCHITECTURE India 

Victory at Chi tor (p. 130) are also examples of Jain work, and 
splendidly carved specimens of their characteristic pillars, dating from 
the loth to 1 2th centuries, still exist in the great mosques at the Kutb 
Minar, S. of Delhi, and in Ajmer, Ahmadabad, and Belgaum (p. 485). 
Of modern Jain architecture the most notable specimens are at Sonagir 
(p. 147) and Muktagiri, the temple of Hathi Singh (a.d. 1848) at 
Ahmadabad^ the temple at Delhi, about one hundred years old, and 
the temples at Calcutta. 

Brakman architecture is divided by Mr Fergusson into the three 
styles of Dravidian, Chalukyan, and Indo-Aryan. The Dravidian^ or 
Madras, architecture is best seen at Tanjore, Tiruvalur (p. 479), 
Srirangam, Chidambaram, Rameswaram, Madura, Tinnevelly, Con- 
jeeveram, Coimbatore, and Vijayanagar (p. 516). “There is nothing 
in Europe that can be compared with these Dravidian temples for 
grandeur and solemnity, and for parallels to them we must go back 
to ancient Egypt and Assyria” (Sir G. Birdwood). The oldest of 
the Dravidian temples date from about the nth century; but in 
their present form few can go back as far as the 13th, and most are of 
even more modern date. Quite the oldest temples in India, dating 
from the 7th to 8th centuries, are those at Pattadakal and Aiwalli, 
near Badami (p. 500). The shrine itself, which is called the 
vimana^ is always square in plan, surmounted by a pyramidal roof of 
one or more storeys ; a porch, or inandapam^ covers the door leading to 
the cell in which the image of the god is placed ; the gate pyramids, 
ox gopurams^ are the principal features in the quadrangular enclosures 
which, with numerous other buildings, surround the vima?ias. The 
chief Dravidian rock-cut temples, which, unlike the Buddhist caves, 
are excavated externally as well as internally, are at Mamallapuram 
(p. 599) and Ellora. The Palaces exhibit Muhammadan influence, 
having the Moorish pointed arch. They are to be found at Madura, 
Tanjore, Vijayanagar, and Chandragiri (p. 478). 

The Chalukyan style was at its best in the province of Mysore 
during the three centuries a.d. 1000 to 1300, when the Bellalas 
ruled there. They erected groups of temples at Somnathpur (p. 530), 
Belur, and Hallabid (p. 525), Other Chalukyan examples are at 
Warangal and Hanamconda (p. 515)- This style is remarkable 
for elegance of outline and elaboration of detail. The artistic com- 
bination of horizontal with vertical lines, and the play of light and 
shade, especially in the Hallabid example, far surpass anything in 
Gothic art. The animal friezes begin, as is usual in India, with 
elephants in the bottom line, then lions, then horses, and then 
oxen, above which are pigeons or other birds. 

Examples of the Indo ~ Aryan, or Northern style, exist at 
Bhubaneswar (pp. 445 ? 44 ^)) black pagoda at Kanarak, the temple 



Introd, MUHAMMADAN ARCHITECTURE CV 

of Jagannath at Puri, all dating from the iith and 12th centuries, 
the Garuda pillar at Jajpur (p. 443), Khajraho, the Teli-ka- 
mandir at Gwalior, the temple of Vriji at Chitor, the golden temple 
of Biseswar at Benares, the red temple at Brindaban, and the 
modem temple erected by Sindhians mother at Gwalior. There are 
rock-cut temples of this style near Badami and at Ellora. 

The finest Indo-Aryan Palaces, besides the Man Singh Palace at 
Gwalior, are at Udaipur, Datia, Orchha (pp. 147 and 158), Amber 
(p. 196), and Dig (p. 226), The beauty of Hindu architecture is 
greatly enhanced by the use of picturesque sites, either on hills, 
m valleys, or where the aesthetic value of water may be utilised. 
At Rajasamudra, in Udaipur, for example, the band or dam of the 
artificial lake is covered with steps, which are broken by pavilions 
and kiosks, interspersed with fountains, the whole forming a fairy 
scene of architectural beauty. Of modern Indo-Aryan civil archi- 
tecture the best specimens are the tombs of Sangram Singh and Amar 
Singh at Udaipur, and of Bakhtawar Singh at Alwar. The latter 
shows the foliated arch which is so common in Mughal buildings ; 
and it also shows the Bengali curved cornices, whose origin was the 
bending of bamboos used as a support for the thatch or tiles. 

The history of Muhammadan art ^ is dated from about 1200 A.D., 
the time of the Ghor dynasty and the Slave Kings at Delhi. So 
many as twelve or fifteen styles of Muhammadan architecture have 
been distinguished in India, but in all there will be found domes and 
arches (usually pointed) derived from the Bagdad style, and that 
again from the ancient vaulted architecture of Mesopotamia. The 
chief styles are the so - called Pathan and the Mughal. The 
former (1193-1554 A.D.) prevailed in Northern India. The early 
Muhammadan conquerors found in the colonnaded courts of the 
Jain temples nearly all that was required for a mosque. They had 
only to remove the temple in its centre and erect a new wall on the 
West side, adorned with niches {mihrabs\ pointing toward Mecca, 
m front of which they added a screen of arches, with rich carvings, 
fhe earliest principal works are at Delhi — the Kutb Mosque and 
Minar, and the tomb of lyaltimish (Altamish) ; at Ajmer — the mosque ; 
and at Budaon — the gateway of the mosque. Hindu masons were 
employed in their constructions, which retained, consequently, some 
Hindu characteristics. Mr Fergusson {Ind. Arch., 2, 204) considered 
that the carving of the screen at the Kutb Mosque, Delhi, is, without 
exception, the most exquisite specimen of its class known to exist 
anywhere. He also considered (2, 206) that the Kutb Minar “both in 
design and finish far surpasses any building of its class in the whole 


^ .4 History of Fine Art in India and Ceylon by V. A. Smith (p. 391). 



Cvi MUHAMMADAN ARCHiTiiCTURE India 

world,” and that Giotto’s Campanile at Florence, ^‘beautiful though 
it is, wants that poetry of design and exquisite finish of detail which 
marks every moulding of the Minar.” During the Pathan period the 
mosques usually had neither minarets nor prominent domes. 

But the outlying Provinces of the empire invented styles of their 
own expressive of their local peculiarities. These can be seen at 
Jaunpur, the capital of the Sharki dynasty (1394-1476) ; in Gujarat, 
especially Ahmadabad, while independent (1396-1572); in Malwa, 
similarly (1401 - 1531), (pp. 124-125) ; at Gaur and Pandua, in Malda 
(pp. 416-418), (1203 - 1573). S. of the Narbada the Bahmani rulers 
(1347-1525) constructed their buildings of various styles at Gulbarga 
(p. 474) and Bidar. Bijapur and Golconda (p. 511) also had their 
special fashions in building. 

With the advent of the Mughais, the Mughal Indo-Persian style 
displayed the foreign influence in Muhammadan architecture. Of 
Babar’s (1526-30) works only two mosques now remain — at Panipat 
and Sambhal ; and the same number are due Xo Humayun— all purely 
foreign and Muhammadan. Akbar was, in architecture as in religion, 
extremely tolerant, and his buildings exhibit marked Hindu features. 
The chief of them still in existence are the tomb of his father 
Humayun, near Delhi, distinctly Persian in style, but differing in respect 
of its marble material ; also the town of Fatehpur-Sikri, the fort at 
Allahabad, the palace at Lahore, and the red palace in the fort at Agra, 
which by some authorities, in spite of its Hindu features, is ascribed 
to Jahangir- Among the latter’s contributions to Indo - Persian 
architecture were the tombs of Akbar at Sikandra, of Anar Kali at 
Lahore, and Ftimad-ud-daula at Agra, Shah Jahan, under whom 
the Mughal power reached its zenith, was the greatest of ail Indian 
builders. There is a great contrast between the manly vigour and 
exuberant originality of Akbar and the extreme elegance of his 
grandson, which rapidly tended to become effeminate. Shah Jahan 
built the Jami Masjid at Delhi, the inner fort and palace at Agra, 
the Moti Masjid, or Pearl Mosque, there also, and the Taj Mahal, 
perhaps the most beautiful building in the world. In these w^orks, 
wrote Mr V. Smith, the Indo-Persian style, by universal consent, 
attained supreme beauty. But the style, though essentially Persian, 
was distinguished from the Persian practice by the lavish use of 
white marble, by the pietra dura decorations, beautiful open-work 
tracery, grandeur, and elegance. His son Aurangzeb was a religious 
fanatic, who has left little save the mosque at Lahore, another small 
one at Benares, and the tomb at Aurangabad. The reign of this bigot 
w.as marked by a rapid decline in art, including architecture ; the 
Persian style, consequently, showed deterioration. In many places 
modern architects have effected a graceful ^-ompromise between 



Inirod. ^ ancient monuments cvii 

the Hindu and Muhammadan styles by combining Persian domes 
with Bengali bent cornices and Hindu or half-Hindu columns. 
Excellent examples of this pretty though feeble style, as used for 
both civil and religious buildings, are to be seen at Mathura (Muttra) 
and in hundreds of other localities. It is quite impossible to tell 
merely from inspection of the architecture whether a building is 
intended for Muslim or Hindu use” (V". Smith, pp. 419-20). Foreign 
innovations, he adds, were subjected to the irresistible pressure of 
native taste and methods. In Sind the style was Persian, both in 
form and decoration. The later examples of Mughal architecture 
at Lucknow have been described as shoddy, and pretentious 
abominations, degraded in taste, partly attributable to European 
influence. The style of the Muhammadan dynasty of Mysore 
H760-99), though not so degraded as Lucknow, was poor and 
inartistic. 

As mosques in India always face East, they should be seen of a 
morning. 

Among other styles should be mentioned the ruins at Martand 
and other places in Kashmir, which bear evidence of classical 
influence, and the modern Golden Temple of the Sikhs at Amritsar. 

The Burmese pagoda, with its thin spire, has been evolved from 
the solid hemispherical dome of the Buddhists. The best examples 
are at Prome, Pagan, Rangoon, Mandalay, Pegu, and Moulmein. 
A small example may be seen in the Eden Gardens, Calcutta. 


The Preservation of Ancient .Monuments and Antiquities 

As the architectural monuments of India will specially attract the 
attention of visitors, so the means taken for their preservation is 
bound to be a subject of interest. In the earlier days of British rule 
the Government was too much concerned with laying the foundations 
and extending the borders of its new Empire to pay much heed to 
the relics of old ones, and though a few spasmodic efforts were made, 
notably by the first Lord Minto, by Lord Hastings, and Lord Amherst, 
to save a few of the most celebrated structures round Agra and Delhi 
trom decay, they resulted only in the accomplishment of some per- 
functory repairs. The first real step towards asserting official 
responsibility in archaeological matters was taken by Lord Canning, 
who in i860 established the Archaeological Survey of Northern India. 
The function of the new Department, however, as well as of the local 
surveys which were afterwards ^instituted in Madras and Bombay, 
was confined to the description of monuments and to antiquarian 
research, the critical task of conservation being still left to the Local 
Governments, who made fitful efforts to discharge it according to the 



cviii ANCIENT MONUMENTS . India 

caprice of successive Governors or Lieutenant-Governors, but always 
without expert guidance or control. 

It was not until 1878 that the Supreme Government awoke to the 
deplorable condition into which the national monuments were 
steadily sinking, and the then Viceroy, Lord Lytton, allocated a sum 
of 3J lakhs to the repair of buildings in the N.W. Provinces, and 
pressed for the appointment of a special Conservator to guide and 
control the operations of the Local Administrations, This post was 
sanctioned two years later, and was held for three years by Major Cole, 
who accomplished much during that brief period towards the repair 
of various famous structures, notably those in the Gwalior fort and 
at Sanchi. Then reaction set in ; the post of Conservator was 
abolished in 1883, that of the Director-General six years later, after 
which there followed a period of almost complete apathy and 
neglect. In 1895 came another change of policy, when proposals were 
made to parcel out the country into several circles, each with its own 
archaeological surveyor, who was to make conservation his first and 
foremost duty. This scheme, which, be it remarked, made no 
provision for the exercise of any central control, was still being 
considered when Lord Curzon became Viceroy and threw himself 
with characteristic energy into the task of organising the whole 
Department on a firm administrative basis and of asserting definite — 
and, it is much to be hoped, permanent — Imperial responsibility. 
With this end in view the Provincial Departments were established 
on a more efficient and liberal footing, and were united together 
under the control of a Director-General, provision at the same time 
being made for assisting local Administrations out of Imperial funds. 
Further — the functions of the new Department were closely defined 
and systematic principles laid down for its guidance, special pro- 
minence being given to the conservation of monuments — without, 
however, prejudicing other fields of labour. Finally, in its efforts to 
safeguard all classes of historic monuments and relics, Lord 
Curzon^s Government took extensive powers by legislation for the 
protection of those in private possession, as well as for State control 
over the excavation of ancient sites and traffic in antiquities ; and, by 
dint of encouragement and assistance, secured towards the same 
object the active co-operation of the Ruling Chiefs. 

The result of these wise and comprehensive reforms has since 
become manifest in the changed conditions of the ancient buildings of 
Indiaand Burma. Under the direction of Sir John H. Marshall, C.I.E., 
the Archaeological Department h^s during the last decade over- 
hauled all the more important groups of monuments, besides a 
multitude of isolated relics throughout the country, and has prosecuted 
a vigorous and far-reaching campaign of repair among them, at the 



Introd, ANCIENT. MONUMENTS cix 

same time formulating a systematic programme for their future 
treatment. Those who visited the great monuments of India before 
Lord Curzon’s Viceroyalty will realise the extent of the work 
accomplished since then. At the Taj Mahal at Agra, for instance, a 
, whole village of huts has been swept from in front of the entrance, 
I and the once squalid approaches reconverted into green lawns and 
j peaceful courts ; stately gardens, with their ancient water-courses, 
fountains, and parterres, have taken the place of dense overgrowth 
and Jungle ; and the many edifices grouped around the tomb, which 
formerly served but as a blemish to its beauty, have been rescued 
from decay ; so that the whole scene is one of unrivalled loveliness. 
In the Agra fort, again, the palace of Jahangir has undergone 
complete repair ; the modern military prison with all its excrescences 
has been removed from the Akbari Mahal ; an ugly arsenal yard 
around the hall of audience has given place to the old colonnaded 
court ; and many of the other buildings have been conserved and 
beautified in a like degree. A similar process of careful recon- 
struction and repair is now going on in the Lahore fort, and has 
already been practically completed in the fort at Delhi, where all 
the ancient structures of value have been recovered from the military 
<ind repaired, and their gardens excavated from the accumulated 
debris in which they were buried and laid out on their former lines. 
At Ajmer the embankment of the Anasagar Lake can boast of, 
perhaps, the most complete transformation of all. One by one a row 
of modern bungalows has been removed from it, and from their ruins 
have risen again the pure white marble pavilions of Shah Jahan, 
reconstructed with scrupulous care from the dismantled materials. 
Other famous and beautiful fabrics of the Mughals which have been 
rescued from deep-seated decay are the mausolea of the Emperors 
Humayun, Akbar, and Jahangir ; the small but priceless tomb of 
I’timad-ud-daula and the Chini-ka-rauza at Agra ; the tombs of 
Tagah Khan and Isa Khan at Delhi, the mosque of Dai Anga at 
Lahore, and the so-called Zenana Palace in the fort of Allahabad. 

It would take too long to speak of the Department’s achievements 
at the other main centres of Muhammadan power — at Mandu, the 
mighty fortress of the Malwa Kings, and at Dhar, in Central India ; 
at Ahmadabad and Bijapur, in Bombay ; or at Gaur and Pandua 
and Rohtasgarh, in Bengal. Suffice it to say that what has been done 
among the Mughal remains has been done in equal measure among 
these earlier groups of Moslem architecture, and in an equal measure, 
too, among the Hindu and Buddhist monuments in both India and 
Burma. The temples of Khajraho and Bhubaneswar, of Con- 
jeeveram, Sompalle, and Vellore ; the royal palace and monasteries at 
Mandalay ; the pagodas of Pagan ; the vast array of civil and 



cx 


ANCIENT MONUMENTS 


India 


religious edifices at Vijayanagar ; the topes at Sanchi and Sarnath ; 
the sculptured cave temples of Western India and Orissa; and the 
Mutiny monuments at Lucknow— the Residency, Dilkusha Palace, and 
Sikandar Bagh — all these and many more besides, that have been 
singled out for their historic associations or the exquisite beauty 
of their architecture, have been taken in hand and protected against 
the further ravages of time. 

A special feature of all this work has been the rescue of many 
of these buildings from profane and sacrilegious uses and their 
restitution to the faith of their founders— or, at least, to safe custody as 
protected monuments. Until a few years ago the exquisite Pearl 
Mosque of Jahangir, in the Lahore fort, was used as a Government 
treasury, while the Sleeping Hall of Shah Jahan did duty as a Church 
for the British troops. Dai Anga’s tile-enamelled mosque in the 
same city had been turned into a railway office and ruthlessly 
mutilated in the process. In the Delhi fort the Rang Mahal 
and Naubat Khana were used as officers' quarters ; and a soldiers' 
canteen was located in the Salimgarh at Agra. The former desecra- 
tion of the pavilions of Shah Jahan at Ajmer has already been 
mentioned. At Bijapur a D.B. has been expelled from one mosque, 
the relics of a British post-office from another ; at Lucknow a 
mosque has been recovered, which was formerly used as a dispensary, 
and another in the Vellore fort, which w^as tenanted by a police 
officer ; the lovely masjid of Siddi Saiyad at Ahmadabad has ceased 
to be a cutcherry ; the cave temples at Trichinopoly are no longer 
godowns ; and at Mandalay the Church and club have been expelled 
from the throne rooms of the Burmese Kings. 

In conclusion, it remains to be said that the new Archaeological De- 
partment has undertaken, for the first time in India, the scientific ex- 
ploration of buried sites, and by its investigations at Charsadda, Sahri 
Bahlol, Shah-ji-ki-dheri, Bhita, Sarnath, Kasia, Saheth-Maheth 
Hmawza, and elsewhere, has thrown a flood of new light on the 
architecture and art and history of early India and Burma. In the 
collections of antiquities made at these sites, and in other collections 
which the Department has brought together at Peshawar, Delhi 
Muttra, Sarnath, Mandalay, Pagan, and other places, the student 
of Indian archaeology will now find an abundance of materials 
systematically arranged and catalogued. 

It may also be noted here that much has been done in the last twentv- 
five years under competent artistic advice to produce suitable build- 
ings of architectural merit in India, especially in Bombay and Madras 
by Mr Stephens and Mr Chisholm, by Colonel Sir Samuel Swinton 
Jacob, ICC.I.E., in Rajputana, and by the late Mr Lockwood 
Kipling, C.I.E., and Rai Bahadur Ganga Ram, in the Panjab. 



Inirod, 


INDIAN ARl WORK 


CXI 


INDIAN ART WORK 
The Fine and Industrial Arts 

j 

The latest writer, Mr Vincent Smith, late in his great 

work, A History of Fine Art in India and Ceylon^ fr 07 n the Earliest 
Times to the Present Day^ has discriminated between Fine Art, as 
work showing creative power in a greater or lesser degree, and the 
Industrial or Applied Arts — that is, work which is merely the outcome 
of skilled hereditary craftsmanship. His main topics are sculpture 
I and painting, with some references to architecture. Some persons 
have denied the existence of Fine Art in India. The latest opinion 
IS that Indian Art is only one manifestation of Asiatic Art, and that 
I m Asia genuine Art, quite independent of the Hellenic tradition, has 
( existed for ages and still lives. A new school glorifies Indian Art 
for its idealism, passionless restraint, restrained dignity, spirituality, 
ascetism, glorying in the fact that mediaeval sculpture is so peculiarly 
and exclusively Hindu as to be often unintelligible to the ordinary 
well-educated critic. 

Mr Fergusson wrote of Indian sculpture, that when it “first 
dawns upon us m the rails at Buddh Gaya and Bharhut (250 to 200 
B.C.), it is thoroughly original, absolutely without a trace of foreign 
influence, but quite capable of expressing its ideas. Some animals — 
such as elephants, deer, and monkeys — are better represented there 
than in any sculptures known in any part of the world ; so, too, are 
some trees, and the architectural details are cut with an elegance and 
precision which are very admirable.” Mr \. Smith, accepting the 
existence of Indian Fine Art, but not the extreme views as to the 
superiority of Hindu Art, is convinced that India has produced works 
of fine art in sculpture — such as that ofSanchi, Bharhut, Mathura, etc. 
— and in painting — such as the Ajanta frescoes, ranging from about 50 
A.D. to 642 A.D. — entitled to high rank on their msthetic merits, and 
not merely on account of their historical and antiquarian interest. 
Accepting the striking originality of Indian Art, Mr V. Smith states 
that “ India has borrowed many things from abroad during the long 
course of the ages, but it is a trite observ^ation, easily proved by 
tnany instances, that she always so transmutes her borrowings as to 
make them her own. Such transmutation is equivalent to originality.” 
Indian Fine Art is a by - product of religious emotion, but to be 
classified according to age and country, not according to creed. Its 
tradition is held by many to be a possession of priceless value to the 
Indian peoples. 



cxii INDIAN ART WORK India 

The history of Indian Art begins with the Mauryan Emperor 
Asoka (272 to 231 B.C.), who patronised Buddhism. The expression 
of early Art was nearly all Buddhist. In Asoka’s time the dominant 
foreign influence was Persian, traceable clearly in his monolithic 
columns (about 30) and other works. The Greek element, expressed 
in Asiatic Hellenistic forms, is apparent, especially through the 
influence of the stone bas - reliefs of Alexandria. But whatever 
Indian sculptors borrowed they made their own in character. There 
are numerous echoes of Greek Art in the Gandhara sculptures. The 
Greek influence ended by 400 a.d. The substantial originality of 
Indian Art is supported by an examination of the foreign influences 
upon Indian pre-Muhammadan Art. Modern Art is continuous with 
the Brahmanical (including later Buddhist) Art, which was evolved 
during the 7th and subsequent centuries, exalting the ascetic 
ideal, and reflecting the teachings of Puranic and Tantric literature. 
Indo-Muhammadan Art began about 1200 a.d., the architecture, 
domes, and arches, being based on the style practised at Bagdad, 
with some Hindu features. The Indo- Persian style prevailed in 
N. India, applied to Hindu traditions and details. In some 
instances — e.g.^ the colonnades at the Kutb, Delhi, and the great 
mosque at Ajmer — the decorative work is purely Hindu, portions of 
old temples having been incorporated. 

It is suggested that in India painting was an indigenous Art, 
earlier than sculpture, possibly a branch of a widely-diffused Asiatic 
school, unconnected with Greece or Rome. Early Hindu painting had 
merits and deserved credit for substantial originality. Its history 
closes with the Ajanta frescoes in 642 a.d., and reopens with the 
introduction of the foreign Persian style by order of Akbar about 
1570 a.d. The Art so introduced into India was largely Mongol in 
subject and treatment, with marks of strong Chinese influence. Sir 
M. A. Stein’s recent discoveries in Central Asia, as described in his 
book, afford evidence of the existence of this influence in that region. 
The Indo-Persian and Mughal school attained a high standard in 
portraiture, especially miniatures ; but the art lacked greatness. 
The beautiful decoration of the Mughal period is Industrial rather 
than Fine Art. Of late years many pictures have been produced by 
students trained in European methods, chiefly at the Government 
Schools of Art : the latest movement is in favour of following Indian 
ideals. 

The excellence of Indian Industrial Art production is to be found in its 
pottery, metal work, carving, jewellery, weaving, dyeing, and embroidery. 
In these directions the Indian artisan is remarkable for his patience, 
accuracy of detail, thoroughness, and artistic sense of both colour and 
form. The elaboration of ornament in the best Indian metal ware 



Tntrod. INDIAN ART WORK cxili 

or carving, the composition of colours in the best Indian carpets, or 
enamel, and the form of the best Indian pottery, have seldom, if ever, 
been excelled. Much of the skill of the Indian handicraftsman is due 
to the hereditary nature of his occupation. The potter, the carpenter, 
the smith, the weaver, each belongs to a separate caste ; a son 
inevitably follows the trade of his father, and the force of custom, with 
generally a religious basis, impels him to imitate his father’s work. 
The result is that the form and workmanship of artisan work is almost 
exactly the same now as it was thousands of years ago, and that the 
artisan, with great technical and imitative skill, has little creative 
power. While the caste theory holds generally, carpenters, stone- 
carvers, and even smiths, not unfrequently work in any material 
indifferently, like certain workers in medieval Europe. The com- 
bined competition and prestige of Europe have created a tendency 
to imitate European methods. The best work used to be done, at 
leisure, to the order of the wealthy Princes and nobles of an 
ostentatious native court. Many of these courts have now ceased to 
exist, while others have declined in purchasing power and in influence. 
The authority of the trade guilds, and of caste, has been relaxed 
under the freedom of British rule, and the importation of British 
goods has materially affected certain crafts. British supremacy, 
having produced peace, has almost destroyed the armourer's trade, 
which is now diverted into damascening curios at many places ; the 
fancy cheap cotton goods of America and Britain have displaced 
the muslins of Dacca ; aniline dyes and jail work have nearly killed 
the old carpet industry. Whether the Schools of Art wEich the 
Government has established in India have hastened or retarded 
the process of degeneration is a much-disputed point. The Schools 
have been defended, with some success, for preventing degeneration : 
all depends on their Principals. Some trades which were dying out 
have been resuscitated by their efforts, and the mania for imitating 
European designs is sometimes effectually diverted from the worst 
to the best examples, and in some cases native crafts have actually 
been revived. The effective working of these institutions is a task 
which requires much delicacy of perception as wxll as firmness of 
touch, as there is alw'ays great risk that a School which contains 
principally casts from the antique and details of Italian and Gothic 
ornament will affect the purity of indigenous ideals, which is much 
to be deplored. To restrain rather than to strengthen the tendency 
to imitate the designs and methods of the dominant race should be 
the aim of Art Education throughout the country. In S. India the 
indigenous Art industries have to some extent decayed, but in recent 
years there has been an unquestioned revival of the handicrafts of the 
Madras Presidency, the artisans being encouraged by the sale of 


CXIV 


METAL WORK 


India 


their work at the Victoria Technical Institute, Madras. Defects in 
Indian art ware may be found under any of the following heads — 
(i) bad design ; (2) overcrowding of ornament ; (3) mixture of styles ; 
(4) adaptation of the ornament or woikmanship of one district or 
province, or even country, to the forms and materials of another ; (5) 
carelessness in execution ; (6) haste ; (7) unsuitability of form to the 
particular purpose required ; (8) inferior materials and appliances*^ 
(Journal of Indian Art^ No. I19, p. 48). 

In the general sketch of Indian Industrial Arts^ which follows 
certain places are mentioned as being noted for particular wwk ; but 
it should be remembered that the small towns ar# gradually losing 
their specialities, the best workmen drifting steadily towards the 
larger centres. A visit is recommended to the art collections in the 
Indian Museum at S. Kensington before the visitor to India leaves 
England. 

Nearly every Indian village has its Jotter^ who is kept constantly 
at work making domestic utensils of baked clay, for in many house* 
holds no earthen vessels can be used a second time. The forms of 
the utensils which he makes are of great antiquity and beauty. The 
best glazed pottery is made in the Panjab, of blue and white, and in 
Sind, of turquoise blue, copper green, dark purple, and golden 
brown, under an exquisitely transparent glaze- The usual ornament 
is a conventional flower pattern, pricked in from paper and dusted 
along the pricking. The Madura (Madras) pottery deserves mention 
for the elegance of its form and richness of its colour. Multan 
pottery had greatly degenerated at the Delhi Darbar Exhibition 
of 1903. The Bombay School of Art no longer produces imitations 
of Sind w^e. In the Panjab and Sind, and especially at Tatta 
(p. 361) and Hyderabad, there are many good specimens of encaustic 
tiles on the old Muhammadan mosques and tombs. One of the 
finest examples is the mosque of Wazir Khan at Lahore. 

Metal work is now chiefly exhibited in caskets, trays, salvers, 
vases, bowls, Jewellery or personal ornaments, perfume-boxes, etc., 
with great attention to decoration, rather than in military arms and 
implements. The Panjab has long produced gold and silver work, 
and especially parcel-gilt sarahis, or water-vessels, of elegant shape 
and delicate tracery. The gold and silver ware of Kashmir, Cutch, 
Lucknow, Bombay, Ahmadnagar, Cuttack (p. 444), is worthy of 
mention ; Tanjore produces silver work on brass and copper. The 
hammered repousse silver work of Cutch is of Dutch origin. The 


ixVTr N. T. IMukharji^s Art Manufactures of India {1888) maybe consulted 
for further details ; also the Journal of Indian Art and Industry (1883 to date) 
may be recommended as containing much valuable, and the latest, information. 



Introd. METAL WOFE— DAMASCENING CXV 

embossed silver work of Madras, with Dravidian figures in high 
relief, is called Swam! ware. 

Domestic utensils in brass and copper are made all over India, the 
Hindus using the brass and the Muhammadans the copper. The 
1 brass is cleaned by scrubbing with sand or earth and water ; the 
copper periodically receives a lining of tin. The copper bazar of 
Bombay is celebrated, and so is the brass and lacquered ware of 
I Moradabad (p. 372). Benares and Jaipur are famous for cast and 
sculptured mythological images and emblems. Plates, cups, jewellery, 
etc,, of Kansha (bell metal) are made at Burdwan (p. 55) and 
Midnapore (p. 442). Other places noted for brass and copper ware 
are Nagpur, Ahmadabad, Nasik, Poona, Murshidabad, and Tanjore. 
The Kashmir and Peshawar ware has marked Persian features. 
Personal ornaments, very generally replicas of traditional and antique 
types, are mostly made in base inetal ^ — as bracelets, anklets, amulets, 
rings, — sometimes in gold and silver. Base metal — copper and brass 
mixed — is used for vessels by Hindus in S. India, especially at 
Tanjore and Tirupati, Nepalese brass work shows itself in lamps of 
various shapes, incense - burners, boxes, bells, drinking - cups, of 
interesting forms and beautifully decorated, made by the attractive 
iiiediieval cire perdue process. 

The artisans of India were formerly very skilful in the use of iron 
and steel. Mr Fergusson said of the iron pillar in the Kutb 
Mosque at Old Delhi, to which he assigns the date of a.d. 400, that 
It opens our eyes to an unsuspected state of affairs to find the 
Hindus at that age capable of forging a bar of iron larger than any 
that have been forged even in Europe up to a very late date, and 
not frequently even now. It is almost equally startling i-j find that, 
after an exposure for fourteen centuries, it is unrusted, and the capital 
and inscription are as clear and as sharp as when the pillar was 
erected” (see pp. 454-5 also). Sir G, Birdwood says : ‘‘The blades 
of Damascus, which maintained their pre-eminence even after the 
blades of Toledo became celebrated, were, in fact, of Indian steel.” ^ 
Indian ar7ns are characterised by their superb, and sometimes 
excessive, ornamentation. But the modern work in iron, steel, and 
arms is not of much importance. Nepal and Bhutan are still 
renowned for the manufacture of arms, especially swords and 
knives. 

Damascening is the art of encrusting one metal upon another. 
The best or true damascening is done by cutting the metal deep, and 
filling it with a thick wire of gold or silver. The more common 
process is to heat the metal to a blue colour, scratch the design 


i 7/^^- Indust} lal Arts oj India. 



CXvi ENAMEL AND JEWELLERY India 

Upon it, lay a thin gold or silver wire along the pattern, and then sink 
it carefully with a copper tool. The art comes from Damascus, hence 
its name. Damascening in gold is carried on chiefly in Kashmir, 
Gujarat, and Sialkot (p. 323), and is called ‘^koft’’ work. In silver or 
iron it is called bidri, from Bidar (p. 505), in the Nizam’s dominions, 
where such work is still made, though it is now produced principally 
in Lucknow and some at Purnea, in Bengal : both koft ” work and 
bidri are false damascening. True damascening is called fai-z- 
ziishan ” work, in which the design is outlined by soft gold or silver 
wire hammered into deeply-chiselled grooves in the steel or iron. 
Arms are still made in this way at most of the Princes' courts in 
Rajputana, Malwa, etc. A cheap imitation of koft work is made 
with gold leaf. 

Enamel is an artificial vitreous mass, ground fine, mixed with 
gum water, applied with a brush, and fixed by fusion. In the 
champleve enamelling of Jaipur — the best in India, perhaps in the 
world — the colours are placed in depressions hollowed out of the 
metal, and are made to adhere by fire. The Jaipur artist is renownetl 
for the purity and brilliance of his colours and the evenness with 
which they are applied. He is particularly famous for a fiery red, 
which is unique. For enamel on gold — besides Jaipur— Delhi and 
Benares may be mentioned ; on silver, Multan, Bahawalpur, Kangra, 
Hyderabad (Sind), Karachi, Abbottabad (p. 334), Bhuj Cutch (p. 201), 
Lahore, Kangra (p. 305), and Kashmir ; on copper, the Panjab and 
Kashmir. A quasi-enamel, the mode of preparation being kept 
secret, is made of green colour at Partabgarh, and of blue at Ratlam 
(p. 128). Glass was known in India at the time of the Mahabharata ; 
glass bangles and other ornaments are made all over the country. 
Alwar produces engraved gold and silver and book-bindhig. 

The splendour of Indian jeivellery is due to the free use of 
diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and other gems, some of them mere 
scales so light that they will float on water. A dazzling variety of 
rich and brilliant colours is thus produced by means of gems which 
arh valueless except as splashes, points, and sparkles of gorgeousness. 
Rings for the fingers and toes, nose and ears ; bracelets, armlets, 
anklets, nose studs, necklaces made up of chains of pearls and gems ; 
tires, aigrettes, and other ornaments for the head and forehead ; 
chains and zones of gold and silver for the waist — such are the 
personal ornaments in daily use amongst men and women, 
Muhammadans and Hindus. One reason for the great popularity 
of gold and silver jewellery is that it is portable wealth, easily 
preserved. The silver filigree work — an art of very ancient origin — 
of Cuttack, Dacca, and Ceylon, generally with the design of a leaf, 
is remarkable for delicacy and finish. For gold and silver jewellery, 



Tntrod. 


CARVING 


cxvn 


Trichinopoly, Vizagapatam (p, 457), Delhi, and Ahmadabad are noted. 
Silver fish, flexible-jointed, are made in the Monghyr district. Each 
article of Bhutan jewellery is a work of art. The best enamelled 
jewellery comes from Jaipur, Delhi, Benares, and Hyderabad 
(Deccan). The old Delhi work in cut and gem-encrusted jade is 
highly prized. The pietra dura inlaid work of Agra was fully 
developed in the Taj Mahal by Austin de Bordeaux. While 
Florentine in origin and style, the designs have a thoroughly local 
character. 

The well-known Bombay boxes are a variety of inlaid woodwork 
called applique. Indian lacquer, so-called, is really lac turnery. In 
it the surface is obtained by pressing a stick of hard shellac to a 
rapidly revolving wooden object. The friction develops heat sufficient 
to make it adhere irregularly. Further friction with an oiled rag 
polishes the surface. The lac is obtained from the incrustations 
made by the female of an insect {coccus laced) on the branches of 
certain trees. The numeral lakh, signifying 100,000, is derived from 
the enormous number of these insects found on a small area. The 
chief consumption of lac in Europe is for sealing-wax and varnishes. 
All over India it is used for walking-sticks, mats, bangles, and toys. 
Lac-turned wooden and papier-mache bo.xes and trays are made in 
Kashmir, Sind, Panjab, Rajputana, Bareilly (p. 373), and Kurnool, 
Madras (p. 520). Of small objects, the mock ornaments for the idols, 
made of paper, should be noted at Ahmadabad and in most parts of 
India. Artificial flowers and models of the temples are made of the 
pith of the sola plant, whence the ‘‘ sola topi," or sun-hat of pith. 

Skilful carvmg is done at Bombay in black wood, for doors or 
furniture, in a style derived from the Dutch. At Ahmadabad the 
black wood is carved into vases, inkstands, and other small objects, 
jack wood also is carved in rectangular forms at Bombay. Sandal- 
wood is carved and commonly enriched with ornament in marquetry 
at Bombay, Surat, Ahmadabad, Kanara (p- 57ij, Mysore, and 
Travancore ; ebony at Nagina (p. 372) and Bijnor ; ivory at Amritsar, 
Delhi, Benares, and \hzagapatam. Wood-carving is universal 
throughout Nepal, Sikhim, and Bhutan. Nepal excels in it ; many of 
the houses and all the temples are most beautifully ornamented and 
decorated, the doors, windows, eaves, etc., being profusely carved. 
Sylhet (p. 438) is noted for its ivory fans, Ratlam for its ivory 
bracelets, and Vizagapatam for boxes of ivory and stags’ horn. 
Ivory-carving is carried on in the Travancore State, and is widely 
known through the Trivandrum School of Arts. Figures of animals 
and of the gods are carved in white marble at Jaipur, Ajmer, and in 
Rajputana generally. Excellent building stone, as, for example, the 
white marble of the Taj, is found in Rajputana, where it is carved for 



cxviii LOOM WORK AND E^r BROIDERY India 

architectural purposes. At Fatehpur-Sikri (Agra) models of the 
ruins are carved in soapstone Models in clay of fruit and figures 
are admirably made at Lucknow, Poona, and Calcutta. The terra- 
cotta statuettes produced at Lucknow by Bhagwant Singh have been 
very highly, perhaps extravagantly, praised by competent European 
artists. In the cities of Gujarat, and wherever the houses are made 
of wood, their fronts are elaborately carved ; this is especially the 
case in various cities in the PanJab, notably in Lahore. Certain 
towns in the Panjab are centres of wood,-carving, 

India was the first of all countries that perfected weaving, sewing 
not being practised until after the Muhammadan in\^asion. The 
Greek name for cotton fabrics, sindon, is etymologically the same 
as India or Sind. The word chintz is from the Hindu chhint, or 
variegated, while calico is from the place of its production, Calicut 
(p. 568). In delicacy of texture, in purity and fastness of colour, in 
grace of design, Indian cottons may still hold their own against the 
world — but not in cheapness. J)hidkari (a coloured cotton sheet, 

sewn in many places with coarse coloured silk) is common everywhere. 
The famous Dacca muslin (p. 437), one pound weight of which could 
be made to cover a fabulous extent, is now superseded by the 
machine-made goods of Europe and America ; and European chintz 
now takes the place of the palampore (palangposh), a kind of bedcover 
of printed cotton produced at Masulipatam. Painted cottons have 
always been a famous Madras industry. Weavers generally are 
in reduced circumstances, through European competition ; but efforts 
are being made to revive their art. In the Panjab the weaver’s trade 
still flourishes, but large quantities of the cheaper cottons are now 
made in India by machinery. In Nepal, Sikhim, and Bhutan the 
weavers work in cotton, wool, and silk, producing excellent patterns 
and colouring. Pure sitk fabrics — striped, checked, and figured 
— are made at Lahore, Agra, Benares, Hyderabad (Deccan), and 
Tanjore. Gold and silver brocaded silks, called kincobs (kimkhwab),^ 
are made at Benares, Murshidabad, and Ahmadabad. The printed 
silks which are worn by the Parsi ladies of Bombay are a speciality of 
Surat. Bahawalpur is noted for its damasked silks. Most of the raw 
silk comes from China. The Muhammadans are forbidden by their 
religion to wear pure silk, but may wear it mixed with cotton. Gold 
and silver wire, thread lace, and foil are made all over the country, for 
trimming shoes and caps, for stamping muslin and chintzes, for 
embroidery and brocades. With such skill is the silver wire prepared, 
that two shillings’ worth of silver can be drawn out to 800 yards. The 
best embroidery, remarkable for its subdued elegance and harmonious 


1 This word is a hybrid, but is connected with kiyi^ Chinese fur gold. 



Tntrod. shawls— carpets— -CURIOS cxix 

combination of brilliant colours, comes from Kashmir, Lahore, and 
Delhi. The patterns and colours diversify plane surfaces without 
destroying the impression of flatness. Much tinsel is used, but the 
result has not a tinselly appearance. The famous Kashmir shawls 
are made of the fine, flossy, silk-like wool obtained from the neck and 
underpart of the body of the Himalayan goat. Originally a speciality 
of Kashmir, they are now made in the Panjab also, especially at 
Amritsar. They have greatly deteriorated since the introduction of 
French designs and aniline dyes generally. The finest of the woollen 
stuffs is called patu in Kangra and Kashmir. A rough but remark- 
ably durable patu is made from goat's hair. The shawls called 
Rampur chadars are made at Amritsar and Ludhiana (p. 298), of 
Rampur wool {paskm^ pash 7 nma). The intrinsic difference between 
Eastern and Western decorative art is revealed in Oriental carpets^ 
where the angular line is substituted for the flowing, classical “line of 
beauty.” The Oriental carpet is also more artistically dyed, and 
is decorated according to the true principles of conventional design. 
As a rule the pile carpets of India and Persia are of floral design, 
while those of Central Asia, Western Afghanistan, and Baluchistan 
are geometric. In Persia and India the source of many of the 
patterns is the tree of life (though some contest this theory), shown as 
a beautiful flowering plant, or as a simple sprig of flowers. The dari 
is a carpet of cotton made chiefly in Bengal and Northern India ; but 
the most common cotton carpet is the shatra 7 iji^ made throughout 
India, but especially at Agra. The principal patterns are stripes of 
blue and white, and red and white. In point of texture and workman- 
ship the rugs from Ellore (p. 458), Tanjore, and Mysore are the best. 
Good rugs and carpets are made in Madras city. Costly velvet 
carpets embroidered with gold are made at Benares, Delhi, and 
Murshidabad. The carpets of Malabar are now the only pile woollen 
carpets made of pure Hindu design. Fine carpets are made at 
Amritsar by the well-known firm of Devi Sahai Chamba Mai. 
Sikhim and Tibet produce excellent rugs and carpets, unspoiled by 
the use of aniline dyes, as sufficient dyes are obtained locally. 
Mirzapur (p. 46) has long been famous for the carpets made there. 
Central Asian carpets are best purchased at Amritsar, Peshawar, 
and Quetta. For art manufactures in Burma, see p. 606. 

Curios 

Visitors to India, like residents in the country, are often on the 
look-out for curios, which, though rarer than formerly, may still be 
acquired by searching in bazars, shops, and backshops. They should, 
of course, if possible obtain the advice and assistance of friends 
possessed of local experience. When thrown upon their own 


CXX 


CURIOS — IRRIGATION 


India 


resources, or dependent on Indian advisers, they will have to exercise 
all possible care and vigilance to avoid being cheated in making 
purchases, for the Indian dealers are skilled in imitating specimens 
and concealing blemishes. Many defects are liable to occur in Indian 
work, and there are many ways in which cheating can be effected. 
A study of the best Oriental work in European and Indian museums, 
observation of good specimens, and a perusal of illustrated works on 
Indian art, will help a purchaser to some extent ; but, even when 
armed wuth such knowledge as he can gather, he must never forget 
the maxim caveat emptor. If resort is had to bargaining, the dealer 
will always reserve to himself a margin of profit in the bargain 
offered. 


IRRIGATION 

The history of irrigation in India stretches back into remote 
antiquity, many of the modern works being founded upon old native 
works which have been restored and extended. The storage of water 
in tanks is very common in Southern India. The w’orks are for the 
most part of native origin, but much has been done by the British 
in repairing old tanks and constructing new ones in Madras, the 
Bombay Deccan, and Ajmer. In many places the Indians have 
made artificial lakes wdth dams, which are often of great architectural 
beauty. In the more level tracts of the South every declivity is 
dammed up to gather the rain. Innumerable wells cover the whole 
country ; and it is very usual for the upland cultivator to make his 
own tiny irrigating stream, carrying it along the brows of mountains, 
round steep declivities, and across yawning gulfs and deep valleys, 
his primitive aqueducts being formed of stones and clay, the scooped- 
out trunks of palm-trees, and hollow bamboos. To lift the water a 
bucket-wheel, worked by men and oxen or buffaloes, is employed 
where the water is more than 40 ft. below the surface, and the 
Persian wheel, with a line of earthenware vessels on the ropes which 
run over it, where the water is nearer the surface in N. India. A 
good part of the PanJab and the whole of Sind would be scarcely 
habitable without irrigation ; and it is practically indispensable also 
in the South-east of the Madras Presidency. 

The greatest British engineering works in India have been in 
canal irrigation, the water being drawn directly “ from the larger rivers, 
which, drawing their water from lofty mountain ranges, can, even in 
times of drought, be depended upon for an unfailing supply”; the 
water is conducted into either a “ perennial,” or an intermittent — i.e, 
an “inundation” — canal. A perennial canal is furnished with per- 
manent head works and weirs, and is capable of irrigating large 



hitrod. 


IRRIGATION 


CXXl 


Uacts throughout the year independently of raintall. Irrigation works 
are divided into major and minor works. The major are subdivided 
into {a) productive public works, the capital of which is usually 
provided from borrowed money ; {d) protective works, designed 
as a protection against famine, the capital of which is provided 
from current revenues. The sixty-five Productive Irrigation and 
Navigation Canals working at the end of 1915-16 had a mileage 
of 11,725 m., main canals and branches, and 32,519 m. of distribu- 
taries : of which 4232 and 19,338 respectively, were in the United 
Provinces and Panjab. ‘‘The area irrigated in 1915-16 by all classes 
of irrigation works for which capital and revenue accounts are kept 
was 17,340,633 acres, but the total area irrigated by all Government 
irrigation works was, approximately, 25,250,000 acres. The capital 
outlay (direct and indirect) to the end of the year was ^37,472,1 16 on 
productiv^e major works, ^6,091,150 on protective major works, and 
^2, 85 1,300 on minor irrigation works, for which both capital and 
revenue accounts are kept. The net receipts on capital outlay for 
these three classes were 8.07, 0.49, and 7.58 per cent, respectively 
{Moral and Material Progress Report, 1915-16). In the Panjab 
8,884,81 1 acres were irrigated : the net revenue from major works was 
,41,577,219, representing a return of 10.9 per cent, on a capital outlay 
of nearly ^14,500,000. The main canals and branches in 1915-16 
were 2774 m., and the distributaries 11,041 m. The Canal Colonies 
in the Panjab support a large population settled on Government 
waste land in the Doabs (between rivers), adding enormously to the 
cereal production, wealth and strength of the country. In the 
United Provinces of Agra and Oudh nearly 3,000,000 acres were 
irrigated, and the net revenue gave a return of 8.28 per cent, on a 
capital outlay of about ^6,500,000. In Madras, 3840 in. of main 
canals and 8273 m. of distributaries irrigated 2,151,403 acres, 
showing a return of 9.9 per cent, on a capital outlay of nearly 
^5,750,000. The Sind Canals, 2071 m,, gave 7*29 per cent., and 
irrigated 1,277,488 acres. Some of the oldest canals continue to be 
the most profitable. For instance, the Godavari Delta System 
(dating from 1846-7) gave 22.15 cent, on the capital outlay ; the 
Kistna Delta System (from 1855-6) gave 16.76 per cent, ; the Ganges 
Canal (p. 372) 567 m. (from 1854) returned 9.79 per cent., while the 
Eastern Jumna Canal, 129 m. (from 1830), yielded 24.57 per cent on 
capital outlays. “There are great differences in the financial success 
of the irrigation works in the various provinces. These are due to 
physical conditions, such as surface, soil, climate, and the absence 
or presence of large rivers with a permanent supply of water, as 
well as to differences in the character and habits of the people, 
I here are also considerable differences in the manner in which the 



cxxii FAMINE Ijidia 

irrigation revenue is assessed and collected, which have an important 
bearing on the financial success of the works.’^ {Same Report). 

Minor works are constructed from current revenues, and 
consist of irrigation systems which are not important enough to 
treat as major works. Some are old native works restored, some 
works of the British Government, some are village works which the 
State has taken under control, owing to disputes, or for maintenance. 

In 1915-16 the forty-nine Protective works showed 878 m. of main 
canals and branches, and 2281 m. of distributaries, in operation, irri- 
gating 386,261 acres ; but yielding, from their character, less than 
i per cent, on a capital outlay of over ^6,000,000. 

In years of scanty rainfall the area irrigated by Government 
works is enormously increased ; but in years of almost complete 
drought the supply of water in. the rivers has been known to fall 
short of the great demands on it, owing to failure of rains in 
the mountains. 

Besides the area irrigated by Government works, it is calculated 
that something like 18,000,000 acres are irrigated by means of tanks 
wells, lakes, and the smaller canal channels. This area is likely to be 
largely increased in the near future. In the Madras Presidency 
alone there are some 60,000 tanks, the Indian Irrigation Commission, 
which presented a report in April 1903 on the subject, having 
recommended that forty-four crores of rupees should be spent on 
irrigation during the next twenty years, largely on works indirectly 
reproductive and on private irrigation works. 

“ In addition to the works in operation, there are forty-two major 
projects, twenty being productive and twenty-two protective, which 
are either under construction, awaiting sanction, or being examined 
by the professional advisers to Government. They are estimated 
to extend the benefits of irrigation to an area of over 9,500,000 
acres, out of a culturable commanded area of 22,500,000 acres, 
at a cost of ;£3550005000’’ {Government of /ndia Financial Statement 
for T917-18). 


Famine 

The importance of irrigation will be fully realised from the figures 
of the last three famines from which the country has suffered. 

In the first of these, in 1896-7, the areas affected were 194,000 
sq. m. in British India and 82,000 sq, m. in the Native States, the 
population of the*two areas being 45,000,000 and 7,000,000, of whom 
4,250,000 were on State relief works in June 1896. The second 
famine, in 1899-1900, extended to 175,000 sq. m. (population 25,000,000) 
and 300,000 sq. m. (population 30,000,000) in British India and 



lutrod, THE MATERIAT, COXPITION OT THE PEOPLE OF INDIA Cxxiil 

Xative States, and no less than 6,500,000 people were in receipt of 
relief in August 1900. The third, of 1907-8, affected an area of 
66,000 sq. m. and a population of 30,000,000. The recurrence of 
famine is accepted as a normal feature in the administration of India, 
and due provision is made beforehand for providing relief whenever 
that may be required in consequence of the failure of the periodical 
rains on which the crops depend. Famines occurred in India long 
before the British entered the country, and contemporary writings 
show that the mortality was terrible, even to so late as 1769-70, when 
one-third of the people of Bengal died, it is said. After the famine of 
1876-8 (chiefly in Madras and Bombay) the Famine Commission of 
1880 was appointed, and there have been other Commissions in 1898 and 
1901. The whole subject of famine-relief administration has been 
thoroughly investigated, elaborate codes of instructions have been 
prepared for each Province, the symptoms of impending scarcity 
are carefully watched, the means of communication have been greatly 
improved, so that trade and the supply of food to meet demand 
have been enormously facilitated, with the result that food is now 
always made available in any famine-stricken tract : relief works are 
provided, on which famine labourers can earn a subsistence wage, and 
gratuitous relief is given to all incapable of working. Famine 
mortality is, therefore, checked so far as human efforts can arrest it ; 
but much sickness and disease may often occur in times of scarcity. 
There is not, and never has been, a separate “ famine insurance fund,” 
as has often been supposed, but in the Annual Budget a certain sum is 
set aside— now a million sterling — to be devoted yearly to the protection 
of those areas vvhich are most liable to these visitations by the 
construction of irrigation works and railways and the adoption of 
other measures. By the canals and other irrigation works the crops 
are annually secured over large tracts of country. 


The Material Condition of the People of India 

It is impossible to enter in detail upon so wide a subject as 
this. Full information will be found at pp. 325-355 of the Decennial 
Material Progress Report for 1892-1902, at pp. 376-423 of the similar 
Report for the ten .years ending with 1911-12, and in subsequent 
Annual Reports ; and a perusal of the facts there recorded will 
probably convince any open-minded person that the material con- 
dition of the people in India has greatly improved in the past, and is 
still improving, putting altogether aside the advantages of peace and 
order which now prevail in the country. Various statistics indicate 
a greater spending capacity of the people. At the same time, the 



CXxiv THE MATFEIAl. CONDITION OF THE PEOPLE OF INDIA India 

enormous growth of the population is a matter of serious import. In 
the decade 1901 to 1911 it increased by 30,750,000, or 7.1 per cent. 
The people have been greatly benefited by the large reductions in 
the Salt Duty (a source of revenue in India from time immemorial). 
The rate of duty was Rs.2i per maund until March 1903, when it 
was reduced to Rs.2. It was further reduced to R.iJ in 1905, in 
March 1907 to R.i, and since ist March 1916, R.i^per maund. In 
Burma the rate has been R. i per maund throughout. The increase 
in consumption rose from 366 to 482 lakhs of maunds, or 31 per cent., 
in the ten years 1901-02 to 1911-12. The average consumption per 
head varies from about 9 lbs. in the Panjab, United Provinces, 
Rajputana, and Central India to over 13 in Bengal, the Central 
Provinces, Bombay and Berar, over lo in Sind, 19 in Madras. 
Though called a Salt Tax, the burden on salt is really its selling price 
fi.xed by Government, all sources of supply, apart from the salt im- 
ported by sea, being the property of Government, and worked by the 
State. The principal natural sources are the Jhelam mines (p. 299) 
and the Satnbhar Lake (p. 188). Details of the cotton duties levied 
in India and the countervailing duties imposed on imported sugar 
will be found on p, 217 of the above Report for 191 1-12. The receipts 
from the Customs Import Duty on Cotton Manufactures increased 
in the nine years, 1902-03 to 1911-12, from ;^6 34,200 to 1,029, 900, 
and the Excise Duty on them during the same period from ^121,700 
to ^320,300. 

A general view of the condition of the people for the whole of 
India is hardly possible : it can best be considered by the Provinces 
separately. The main factor is the annual harvest, ranging from a 
full crop to a failure. In Bengal the condition of agriculturists 
has improved considerably. Their increased demand for petty 
luxuries shows a rising standard of living among the labouring classes. 
The agricultural population are beginning to clear themselves of debt. 
In the United Provinces there is a marked improvement in general 
prosperity, with falling prices and rising wages. There has been an 
unquestionable advance of late years in the Panjab in the standard of 
comfort and in the intelligence and enterprise of the agricultural 
classes. Food, clothing, houses, utensils — all show improvement. 
The prosperity of the irrigation colonies appears from their financial 
transactions. In the Central Provinces and Berar low prices and 
keen demand for labour connote prosperity. The Burmese population 
in general is increasing in prosperity, comfort, and intelligence. 
Much Indian loanable capital has been withdrawn from agriculture in 
recent years for investment in oil and other industrial companies. 
In Eastern Bengal and Assam the prices of produce rose, while those 
of the chief food stuffs fell. In Madras prices continue high, and 



Introd. 


PLAGUE 


cxxv 


wages are rising. The small cultivators who work on their own land 
are doing well. In Bombay and Sind successive good harvests have 
promoted an increase of prosperity in all directions. 


Plague 

Plague in India made its recent epidemic appearance at Bombay 
in August 1896, but it was often widespread during the six centuries 
of Muhammadan rule. The total number of deaths caused by it in 
the last twenty years has been nearly 9,000,000, of which over 
2,000,000 have taken place in the Panjab. The remarkable variation 
in the annual mortality is apparent from the figures given here. 


IS96-7 


57,543 

1907 . 

00 

IS98 . 


116,285 

1908 . 

156,480 

IS99 - 


139,009 

1909 . 

' 178,808 

1900 . 


92,807 

1910 . 

512,605 

1901 . 


282,027 

1911 . 

• ■ 846,873 

1902 . 


576,365 

1912 . 

306,488 

1903 . 


883,076 

1913 . 

217,869 

1904 • 


b 143.993 

! 1914 • 

295,760 

1905 • 


1,069,140 

1915 . 

433,866 

1906 . 


356,721 


Plague 

is local in 

its visitations. 

Many parts 

of India have been 


almost entirely free from its ravages. In some parts of the Panjab 
and the United Provinces the mortality has been so severe as to 
disorganise the labour market and to affect the level of wages. 
The mortality in Eastern Bengal and Assam was at <no time 
appreciable — largely, it is believed, because the habits of the people 
and the structure of their houses are unfavourable to the breeding 
of rats, while in the Madras Presidency and in Burma the epidemic 
has never reached serious dimensions. The Government have not 
relaxed their efforts to discover and apply the most effective 
remedies. The Plague Commission in India have continued their 
investigations. It is now generally agreed (i) that epidemic bubonic 
plague in man is directly dependent on epidemic plague in rats ; (2) 
Ihat the vehicle of contagion between rat and rat and between 
rat and man is the plaguednfested rat-flea ; (3) that bubonic plague 
Js not directly infectious from man to man ; and (4) that the life 
of the plague bacillus outside the bodies of men, animals, or fleas 
^5 of short duration. It is now possible to deal satisfactorily with 
the disease when effective control can be established over the 
Sanitary conditions ; in the case of the native army, and in limited 
areas such as jails, there has been remarkable success. But attempts 
lo establish such control over large areas would involve too great 



CXXVl 


SANITATION 


India 


an interference with the habits, prejudices, and sentiments of the 
people, and the application of measures of proved utility must 
depend upon the particular circumstances of each locality and 
upon the character of its inhabitants. In the face of great practical 
obstacles three principal measures for combating plague are now 
adopted— “ (i) the temporary evacuation of quarters in which plague 
is prevalent ; (2) inoculation with the prophylactic fluid ; (3) the 
systematic destruction of rats, the diminution of the food supply 
to which they have access, and, in the course of time, such improve' 
ment in the structure of houses as shall render them reasonably 
rat- proof” {Moral and Material Progress Report^ 1910- ii). 

It is not easy to realise the effects of such a loss as the numbers 
indicate. But beyond a possible examination at certain railway 
stations, travellers are not likely to see anything connected with 
plague. 


Sanitation 

Sanitation — the care for the health of the population — is as 
important as any branch of Indian administration, and perhaps 
more difficult to cope with than any other, owing to the indifference 
even the dislike, of the people in general. The whole subject, in 
various forms, is perpetually receiving the attention of the Govern- 
ment and the officers, civil and medical. It is largely a question 
of money, as there is any amount to be done if funds can be 
provided ; the actual works to be undertaken, of course, require 
consideration and selection in order to produce the greatest benefits 
for the money available. Practical sanitation differs in urban and 
rural areas. In the largest towns great systems of filtered water- 
supply, sewerage, drainage, and conservancy have been introduced 
and are constantly being extended and improved ; in some important 
municipalities pure water-supply, sewerage, and drainage schemes 
are in working order, and conservancy, of course, in all municipalities 
In villages tanks are generally set apart and protected for drinking- 
water ; septic tanks are sometimes utilised, and bazars are improved • 
in rural areas drainage and conservancy are too often neglected or 
minimised. Schemes are sometimes undertaken for the reclamation 
of insanitary areas in towns and municipalities. Outbreaks of particular 
epidemics are met by special measures. Hospitals, dispensaries 
and asylums are maintained in most places under Government or 
municipal management. There are Central and Provincial Sanitary 
Commissioners and Departments, and Sanitary Boards with staffs 
of medical officers, inspectors, sanitary engineers, whose duty it 

to prescribe sanitary measures so far as possible, observe the 



Jntrod, THK COUNTESS OF BUFFERINGS FUND Cxxvii 

occurrences and facts of any diseases, and propose remedies. There 
are three main classes of fatal disease — specific fevers, diseases 
affecting the abdominal organs, and lung diseases. Much of the 
sickness and mortality is due to deficient powers of resistance 
and to insanitary habits and surroundings. Fever is generally 
understood to mean malarial fever, but many causes of death and 
many diseases much more fatal than malarial fever are included 
under the common heading under which more than half the deaths 
are recorded. Cholera is never absent, but is greatly reduced every- 
where by proper precautions in respect of the water and milk supplies. 
Much attention is being paid to the subject of malaria and its 
connection with the breeding of certain mosquitoes in stagnant 
water ; active campaigns are sometimes undertaken for the dis- 
tribution of quinine and the extermination of mosquitoes by drainage, 
petrolage, etc., but much remains to be done. The health of the 
armies, both European and Indian, has been greatly improved of 
late years, as experience has been gained ; and the same may be said 
of the jail population. The registration of births and deaths cannot 
be accepted as altogether complete or accurate ; so far as they were 
recorded in 1910 they showed a general birth-rate of 39.52 per 1000 
against a death-rate of 33.20 ; and during the previous five years a 
mean birth-rate of 37.61 and a mean death-rate of SS-W 1000. 
Laboratories and Institutes have been established for research, 
special enquiries have been undertaken, and scientific publications 
issued for the purpose of improving" the public health by combating 
disease in every form ; but climatic conditions, the habits of the 
people, and the insufficiency of money, are permanent obstacles to 
the attainment of anything like complete success. 


The Countess of Dufferin^s Fund 

The Countess of Dufferin’s Fund, or National Association for pro- 
viding Female Medical Aid for the Women of India, was established 
m 1885 hy the Countess of Dufferin. 

The Central Committee of the Fund is presided over by the 
Viceroy’s wife as Lady President, and has its headquarters in Delhi 
and Simla. The Secretaries are always glad to receive visitors and 
to give help and information to those who wish to visit hospitals and 
inform themselves on the subject of medical aid for Indian women. 
In each presidency or province there is a Presidency or Provincial 
Committee, of which the Governor’s or Lieut.-GovernoFs wife is 
Lady President, and which works in co-operation with the Central 

Committee. 



CXXviii LADY HARDINGE MEDICAL COLLEGE FOR WOMEN India 

A number of Local Committees affiliated to the Provincial Com- 
mittees are scattered through the country, and many of these have 
founded and are carrying on, with assistance from local bodies, zenana 
hospitals officered by women, vAi^x^parda ladies attend for treatment, 
and where special attention is paid to midwifery and diseases of 
women and children. These hospitals are* all interesting, and some 
in the larger cities are excellent and up-to-date institutions, although 
still retaining special Indian characteristics. They are always open 
to inspection (with due regard to parda)^ and visits to those in 
Bombay, Calcutta, Madras, Delhi, Lahore and Karachi would well 
repay visitors who are interested in Indian women and the many 
problems concerning them. 

The income from investments of the Central Committee in 1913 
w-as about Rs, 33,000. Since 1914 an annual grant of Rs. 1 50,000 has 
been received from the Government of India for carrying on the 
“Women’s Medical Service,” — a Service for women doctors on the 
lines of the Indian Medical Service, and which secures for its members 
adequate pay, leave rules and arrangement for Provident Fund. The 
prospects of women doctors in India have been much improved 
thereby, and most of the principal women's hospitals are under 
members of this Service. In 1902 a sum of nearly 7 lakhs was 
collected by the late Lady Curzon for the establishment of the 
Victoria Memorial Scholarships Fund for the training of Indian 
midwives. Many midwives are being trained under the auspices of 
this fund in different parts of the country. 

In 1916 the Central Committee appointed a medical lady. Dr 
M. I. Balfour, W.M.S., to act as Joint-Secretary of the Fund in con- 
junction with the Honorary Secretary, Lt.- Colonel H. Austen Smith, 
I.M.S., Surgeon to the Viceroy. 

One of the most interesting developments of recent years as 
regards medical aid for women is the establishment of a Medical 
College, for Indian women at Delhi, five of the professorial staff being 
provided from the ranks of the Women’s Medical Service. {See 
Lady Hardinge College.) 

The Annual Report of the Central Committee can be obtained by 
application to the Honorary Secretary, Countess of Dufferin’s Fund, 
Viceroy’s Camp, India. 


Lady Hardinge Medical College for Women. 

The Lady Hardinge College was initiated by the late Lady 
Hardinge, who recognised the great need for the training of Indian 
women in medicine, and the difficulties in the w'ay of those who study 
in male colleges. By her efforts a sum of about 25 lakhs w as collected, 



Infrod. 


THE INDIAN ADM INISTRATION 


CX.MX 


many generous donations being given by Indian Princes. A site in 
new Delhi was presented by the Government of India, and the 
foundation stone was laid on 17th March 1914 by Lady Hardinge 
herself. The College was opened in February 1916 by the late 
Viceroy, Lord Hardinge. Thirty-four students came into residence 
in October of the same year. The Principal is Miss K. A. Platt, M.D., 
London, who will be assisted, when the faculties are in full working 
order, by a staff of seven women professors, all highly qualified in 
medicine or science. The Government of India contributes i lakh 
annually to the maintenance of the College. The remainder of the 
upkeep is met by students’ fees and endowments. 

The College is a fine building facing one of the main thorough- 
fares of New Delhi, and contains excellent class-room and laboratory 
accommodation. Behind it are hostels for European, Hindu, Muham- 
madan, Parsi and Sikh students. The Lady Hardinge Hospital 
adjoining provides clinical material for the students wLo are being 
prepared for the M.B., B.S. degrees of the Panjab University. This 
Hospital was opened on 17th March 1917 by Her Excellency Lady 
Chelmsford, C.L, at an inter esting par da ceremony. 

The grounds, 50 acres in extent, contain a fine recreation hall and 
students’ playing-fields, also professors' bungalows and a nurses^ 
hostel. 

The College is situated about 3 m. from the Delhi Railway Station. 
It is an institution unique of its kind and well w'orthy of a visit from 
those who are interested in Indian women and the problems which 
affect them. 


The Indian Administration 

The supreme authority in India, subject to the Secretary of State, 
is vested in the Viceroy and Governor-General, at present the Right 
Hon. Frederick John Napier, Baron Chelmsford, and bis Council of 
Six ordinary Members, and one ’ extraordinary Member — viz., the 
Commander-in-Chief — who form ‘"The Government of India.” These 
seven Members are in charge of the Home, Revenue, Public Works 
and Irrigation, Finance, Commerce, Education, Legislative, and 
Military Departments, at the beads of which, and of the Foreign and 
f’olitical Departments, is a Secretary to the Government of India. 

Under the Home Department are included the subjects of the 
Civil Service, Justice, Police, Prisons, Lunatic Asylums, and the like ; 
under the Education Department are Education, Local Government, 
Sanitation ; under' Revenue and Agriculture are Land Revenue, 
Surveys, Forests, Agricultural Development, Famine, Meteorology ; 



cxxx 


THE INDIAN ADMINISTRATION 


India 


under the Commerce and Industry Department are Trade and 
Shipping, Customs, Excise, Salt, Ports, Post Office, Telegraph, Mines, 
Factories, Statistics ; under Finance are Taxation, Currency, Mints, 
Banking, Opium. The distribution of Government business is liable 
to alteration from time to time. 

The Legislative Council of the Governor-General includes the 
Members of the Executive Council (from which it is entirely distinct) 
and a number of additional members, official and non-official, the 
latter for the most part selected. 

The great experiment made by the Indian Councils Act, 1909 
(9 Edw. 7 Ch. 4), of largely increasing the number of elected members 
of the Legislative Councils, and of appointing Indian members to 
Executive Councils, has admitted a large number of natives of India 
to a considerable share in the legislative and executive work of the 
country. The Legislative Council of the Governor-General has 68 
members, of whom 36 are officials and 32 non-officials ; an official 
majority has been maintained by these numbers. But in all the 
Provincial Legislative Councils (which number variously from 17 
members in Burma to 53 in Bengal) there is a non-official majority. 

The army is under the control of the Commander-in-Chief, at 
present General Sir Charles C. Monro, G.C.M.G., K.C.B., and 
under the direct orders of two Lieutenant-Generals, commanding 
the Southern and Northern Armies, with Headquarters at Ootacamund 
and Meerut. Under them the army is distributed into ten Divisions, 
including Burma- In addition to the usual headquarters staff of the 
army there are Inspector-Generals of cavalry and artillery. 

At the head of each Province is a Governor, Lieutenant-Governor, 
or Chief Commissioner. The Governors of Bombay, Madras, and 
Bengal, and the Lieutenant-Governor of Bihar and Orissa, have in 
each case an Executive douncil of three members (two members of the 
Civil Service and one Indian), and in each of these Governments, the 
United Provinces of Agra and Oudh, the Panjab, Burma, Assam, and 
the Central Provinces, is a Provincial Legislative Council. In every 
Province the administration is, generally speaking, divided into two 
branches— the Judicial and the Executive. At the head of the former 
is a High Court, Chief Court, or Judicial Commissioner, and at the 
head of the latter usually a Board of Revenue or a Financial Com- 
missioner. This link in the revenue administration is, however, miss- 
ing in Bombay, as the link of Commissioners is lacking in Madras. 
Next in the official scale come the Commissioners of Divisions 
exercising control over a number of districts which constitute 
the administrative units of the country. At the head of each 
district is a Collector or Deputy-Commissioner, who is also District 
Magistrate, and is- responsible for the administration of Criminal 



Introd. THE INDIAN ADMINISTRATION CXXxi 

Justice, Police, Revenue, and all executive work in his jurisdiction. 
He is assisted by a number of English and Indian Magistrates and 
Officers at the headquarters of each district, — in some cases by 
officers in charge of sub-divisions of the district, — and in all cases 
by Indian Magistrates and Sub-Collectors in charge of portions of 
the districts, known variously as sub-divisions, tahsils, talukas, and 
the like. Much of the petty magisterial work of the country is 
done by Honorary Magistrates appointed by Government ; while the 
management of the local concerns of Municipalities and District 
Boards is mainly in the hands of members of the Indian community, 
selected or elected. At the Headquarters of the Provincial Govern- 
ments are the Secretaries to the Government, the Inspector-Generals, 
and other heads of the various Departments of Public Works, Police, 
Education, Forests, Registration, Medical Relief, and Sanitation, while 
under the Financial Commissioner or the Board of Revenue are 
usually (i) a Director of Land Records, responsible for the mainten- 
ance of the revenue records of the Province, and in the first instance 
for the settlements of Land Revenue, and (2) a Commissioner of 
Excise. The appointments are not exactly alike in all Provinces. 






^ Iijcluding Travancore and Cocliin. 

The ligurt'S for 1901 refer only to Britibh {losts in tlie tribal areas. 



Distribution of Population according to Religion (Census of ioth March 1911). 




Dl.STUnim jOX OI' PoPIH.ATION ACCORDINti 


Ifitrod. 


AREA— POPULATION — RELK .ION 


rxxxv 




CHRISTIAN POPULATION. 




Ini rod. POST OFFICE and railwavs cxxxix 

POST OFFICE AND RAILWAYS 

Details of the Working of Certain Imperial Departments 

The following figures will ^ive some idea of the enormous and 
increasing operations to which the Indian Administration extends. 
The Post Office and Telegraph Department now employs a staff of 
106,502. 

Post Office 

The number of Post Offices in India in 1915-16 was 19,328; of 
letter-boxes 49,684 (an increase of 380 in the year) ; of village 
postmen 8225 ; of total establishment 95,746. The length of railways 
and roads over which mails were conveyed was 157,657 m. The 
articles conveyed comprised — 

By Letter Mail 

Paid unregistered letters ..... 403,217,757 

Unpaid letters. ...... 25,702,585 

Registered letters and packets (including insured 

and value- payable) ..... 19.483,944 

Post Cards ....... 472,456,743 

Registered newspapers ..... 59 i 5 ^^t >349 

Ordinary unregistered packets .... 5^)094,873 

By Parcel Mail 

Registered parcels ...... 6,048,985 

Unregistered parcels (including value-payable 

unregistered packets) ..... 6,841,924 

Total . 1,051,428,160 

(An increase of 8 J millions of articles in the year, ) 

The inland and foreign money-orders during the year numbered 
32,322,594 for the remission of over 39 million pounds, including 
866,970 telegraphic orders for 3^ million pounds. The total number 
of value-payable articles of all kinds sent through the post was 
5,653,213, and the amount declared for recovery was nearly 13 crores 
of rupees — an increase of .21 and 3.06 per cent, respectively over 
the previous year. The amount deposited in the Post Office Savings 
Banks reached nearly 15J crores, or a little over 10 million pounds, 
and the number of depositors was 1,660,424. 

Telegraphs 

The length of telegraph lines open in 1915-16 was 86,067 m. 
(wires and cable 337,720 m.). The number of offices open was 
196 departmental, 3288 combined with the post — total 3484 ; and the 



CHRISTIAN POPULATION. 


CXXXVl 


CHRISTIAN POPULATION 


India 



Total . i 181,131 32,180 1,246 1,400,664 62,407 728,304 ! 18,058 2,246 3,876,203 



CilRISTIAN POPULATION. 


hitrod. 


CHRISTIAN POPULATION 


cxxxvu 



Natives (Indians) . . . . ; 24,106 3,il08 1,150,370 8<52 163,220 130,469 2,226,764 

Total, British Territory .j 34,697 3,553 1,191,206 6,5S5 198,106 1 77,94 9 2,492,284 



cxI 


RAILWAYS 


India 


number of messages sent 18.129,748 (ol which 1,463,580 were foreign 
messages), involving nearly 89 million signalling operations, of a 
value of Rs. 13, 668, 000 — Le.^ over ;£9i 1,000. The total receipts 
exceeded the total charges of the year by 43^ lakhs. 

The number of wireless stations in India and Burma at the 
end of 1915-16 was nineteen, including nine coast stations. The 
number of messages dealt with by the latter during the year was 
83.7 19 - 


Railways 

The number of miles of railway opened in 1915-16 was 606, bringing 
the total mileage open (31st March 1916) up to 35,833 m. (In 1891 
there were 17,500 m., and in 1901 there were 25,500 m. open, so that 
more than 18,000 m. of railway have been opened in twenty-five 
years.) This mileage is considerably larger than that of France, 
nearly as large as that of Austro- Hungary, three times larger than 
that of Italy, and about 6000 m. less than that of the Germanic 
Empire. Of the total on 31st March 1916, 18,060 m. of railway were 
of the standard gauge (5I ft.), 14,671 of the metre gauge (3 ft 3^ in.), 
and 3102 of smaller (special) gauges. The railways are worked on 
different systems, varying in length from nearly 19,000 m. of State 
lines worked by Companies and over 7000 m. of State lines worked 
by the State to 73 m. in foreign territory. The total number of 
passengers carried in 1915-16 was 464,381,000, the increase of third- 
class passengers in the year being 10 millions. 

At the close of 1915-16 the actual capital outlay from the 
commencement of operations on all open lines amounted to 
Rs. 5, 299, 829, 000, — z>., over ^350,000,000, inclusive of miscellaneous 
items (English stores, etc.) ; the total outlay exceeded ^350,000,000. 
The gross earnings of all Indian railways in 1915-16 amounted to 
nearly 6466 lakhs — an increase of 424 lakhs ; while the net earnings 
gave an increase of 406 lakhs. The financial result to the State during 
1915-16 of the working of the State railways, after meeting all charges 
(working expenses, interest, annuity payments, etc.), was a net gain 
of over 4 million pounds. The percentage of net earnings (3174 
lakhs) on the total capital outlay was 5.99 in 1915-16, In that year 
723 m. of line were sanctioned (viz., 34 standard gauge, 499 metre 
190 special). At the end of 1915-16 there were 2374 m. under 
construction, or sanctioned for construction, including all the 
gauges. 

During the year 1915-16 the total output of coal from the collieries 
in India and Burma amounted to nearly 17 million tons. 

In the Railway \"olunteer Corps there are. efficients, 584 officers 



Introd. 


COMMERCE AND TRADE 


cxli 


1740 non - Lonirnisbioned officeris, and 12,984 volunteers. The 
development of Indian railways during the last forty years has been 
phenomenal. The control of railways and railway schemes is now 
exercised by a Government Railway Board. 

Commerce and Trade 

The trade of India has reached enormous dimensions, the increase 
being specially noticeable during the last ten years. Five-and-thirty 
years ago the imports of merchandise averaged 33J million pounds, 
and the exports nearly 53 million pounds; in 1915-16 they were, in 
spite of the War, in value, imports 87^ million pounds, and the ex- 
ports 128J million pounds. In 1913- 14, before the War, the 
imports of merchandise were 122 million pounds, the exports nearly 
163 million pounds ; so that in two years the total trade decreased 
from 285 million pounds to 216 million pounds — z>., by 69 million 
pounds, or 24 per cent. In 1915-16 trade adjusted itself successfully 
to War conditions. 

The total sea-borne trade of British India in 1915-16 amounted to 
^38 million pounds, as against 236 million pounds in 1914- 15, and 327 
million pounds in 1913- 14, when the highest figures were attained. 
These totals include merchandise and treasure, both on private and 
on Government account. 

“The trading power of India depends primarily on the success 
of its crops,” and these, of course, are affected by the climatic con- 
ditions of the year, which vary in different parts of the country. It 
has been calculated that the value of ten principal crops (not the 
whole agricultural produce) In 1911-12 amounted to Rs. 504} crores 
— 3364 million pounds. The exports and re-exports represent 
of the grand total of trade. Of the total imports of 1915-16, 67.7 
"as with the British Empire (59.4 being with the United Kingdom) ; 
and of the total exports, 55.4 was with the British Empire (38 being 
With the United Kingdom). The exports exceeded the imports, including 
Government transactions, in 1915-16, by ;(j38,825,ooo. Deducting all 
Government transactions, the balance in favour of India for 1915-16 
"as calculated at ^21,615,000. In 1911-12 8868 steamers and sailing 
vessels entered and cleared at Indian ports, with a tonnage of nearly 
million tons; in 1915-16 the figures were 8634 steamers, etc., 
^Sg^egating 12,152,302 tons. Figures of the trade, imports and 
exports, of articles of all kinds are available, though they cannot be 
reproduced here : they will be found in the annual official Reviewed of 
the Trade of India^ which is printed in India and presented to 
Parliament, purchasable for 2s. Before the War the immense and 
increasing amount of the Indian trade and its \^alue and importance 



cxlii FINANCIAL DETAILS India 

to Great Britain were shown by the statistics* Trade, as stated, has 
adjusted itself successfully to the new conditions. 


Financial Details 


The principal sources of revenue and heads of expenditure were 
(gross) in round numbers, according to the revised Estimates for 
1916-17, as follows, in pounds sterling — 


Rbvenue. 


Laud Revenue 

Opium 

Salt 

Stamps ..... 

Excise 

Customs ..... 
Other Heads .... 
Interest ..... 
Posts and Telegraphs 
Alint ..... 
Receipts by Civil Departments 
Miscellaneous .... 
Railways, Net Receipts . 
Irrigation .... 
Other Public Works 
Military Receipts 


million £ 
22 
3b- 
4^ 
54 
9^ 
8 ; 
7 

IB 

4^ 


Total 


£96% 


Expenditure. 

Direct Demands on Revenue 
Interest .... 
Posts and Telegraphs 
Alint .... 
Civil Departments . 
Miscellaneous Civil Charges 
Famine Relief and Insurance 
Railways .... 
Irrigation .... 
Other Public Works 
Military Services 


Surpluses . 


Total 


million £ 

• 9^ 

• ^ 

3? 

s! 

I 

M; 

4i 

26^ 


JC964 


The total permanent debt on 31st March 1916 was .^278,81 1,676, 
of which nearly 277 millions were for public works and millions 
for the new capital at Delhi. The temporary debt being in 
millions, the total indebtedness was 290 millions. The “ Home 
Charges ” in 1915-16 amounted to ^I9>4035939- Up to the same date 
the construction of railways had cost 234] millions, which, in 1915-16, 
gave a net gain of over 4 millions to the State. Against the debt the 
assets are more than counterbalancing, in the value of the railw^ays, 
irrigation works, cash currency, loans repayable, etc. The closing 
Government cash balance at the end of 1915-16 was .2^24,819,404 
(including cash placed by the Secretary of State at short 

notice) ; the Gold Standard Reserve (held to secure the maintenance 
of Exchange at the rate of is. 4d to the rupee) was 26^ millions 
(including the 5| millions just mentioned). 


Native Christians 

The spread of Christianity in India ^ is a matter of deep interest 
upon which full details will be found in the annual reports of the 

1 St Francisco de Xavier (1506-52} began missionary work in India in isU'» at 
Goa, and among the Paravas, the pearl-fishermen. His course lay throuo-h 
Travancore. Ceylon, Mailapur, Malacca, the Malay Archipelago India aL 
Malacca again, Japan, Goa, Singapore; he died on the Chinese coast of 
Kwangtung, and was eventually buried at Goa. The first Protestant missionaries 
were the Lutherans at Tranquebar in 1706, the Baptists at Seramoore in 
and the .Anglican Church m 1813, ' ^ 793 * 



cxliii 


Introd. NATIVE CHRISTIANS 

various missionary societies at work in the country and much 
valuable information in the Provincial Census Reports. These show 
a remarkable increase of Native Christians during the previous 
decade ; but it is noticeable that in many instances this is very much 
more marked in new than in old fields of missionary work. In the 
decade 1901-11, the Christians in India increased from 2,923,241 to 
3,876,203, or nearly a million— />., 32 per cent. The total population 
of the country increased by 6.5 per cent. In the Telugu districts of 
the Madras Presidency the rate of increase of the Indian Christian 
population during the ten years was over 50 per cent. ; in the United 
1 ‘rovinces over 74 per cent. ; in the Hyderabad State, in the Deccan, 
over 136 per cent. ; and in the Panjab the numbers rose from 34,000 
to 163,000, z>., by 380 per cent. From 1881 to 1911 the total 
number of Christians in the Indian Empire rose from 1,862,000 to 
3,876,000, whereas the total population increased from 254 to 313 
millions. The Anglicans (dating from the admission of missionaries 
to India in 1813). numbered, in 1911, 492,752, of whom 332,807 were 
Indians, 34,553 Anglo-Indians, and 125,392 Europeans. The Roman 
Catholics, dating from the mission of St F. de Xavier, were in 1911 
14905863, including i, 39357 ^0 Indians, 57,024 Anglo-Indians, 40,120 
Europeans; the Syrian Christians were 315,162, the Romo-Syrians 
413,142, of whom, in both cases, nearly all were Indians (the Syrian 
church of Travancore and Cochin dating, probably, from the 4th 
century, many of its members having joined the Roman obedience in 
the X5th to i6th centuries, and being classed as Romo-Syrians) ; the 
baptists were 336,596 ; the Lutherans and allied denominations 
218,500 ; the Presbyterians 181,128, of whom 15450 were Europeans : 
the Methodists were 171,844 ; the Congregationalists 135,265 ; and 
the Salvation Army 52,407, all Indians but 20S. Of the total 
number of Christians,. 3,574,770 were Indians, nearly 200,000 
Europeans (including.the British troops), and nearly 102,000 Anglo- 
Indians. 

The number of Indian Christians increased in the decade 1901-11 
by 34.2 per cent. The greater part of the conversions to Christianity 
have been from the depressed classes, />., from the lowest castes 
amongst the Hindus, and from the aboriginal races, Kols, Santals, 
etc. As to conversions from Islam, it is estimated that converts and 
their descendants may number something like 15,000. The move- 
ments referred to have continued with increased momentum. The 
niost striking new development is the increased desire for education 
and emancipation among women of the higher classes, resulting in 
the establishment of an important Christian College for women, in 
Madras, besides many new' Secondary Schools for girls. In the 
Madras Presidency Native Christians of all descriptions, numbered, 



cxiiv THE SPREAD OF CHRISTIANITY ^ India 

in 1 91 1, 1,208,515, showing an increase of 16.3 per cent, m the 
previous decade ; the actual increase numerically was 169,652. In 
the Madras States there were 1,154,209 Christians, of whom 1,136,960 
were in Travancore and Cochin, the converts being chiedy from the 
lower classes; in 1911 the proportions were 694,294 of the Roman 
Catholic Communion, 168,873 of the Anglican, 119,000 of the Baptist, 
and 105,215 of the Lutheran. The districts with the largest Christian 
populations are Tinnevelly, Kistna, Trichmopoly, Tanjore, S. Arcot. 
and Nellore. The Syrian Christians (see p. 566) numbered 3101 
Jacobites and 730 Reformed and unspecified. In the Bombay 
Presidency there were, in 19 ii, 191,173 Native Christians, an 
increase of over 1 1 per cent, in the decade ; of these, in that year, 
147,121 were Roman Catholics and 34?339 of Iho Anglican Com- 
munion. Of the 23,592 (25,210 in 1901) Christians in the Kaira 
District, 7000 were, in 1911, Salvationists (11,000 in 1901). In 
Bengal, as constituted since ist April 1912, the total number of 
Christians in 1911 was 129,518, of rvhom 46,258 were Roman 
Catholics, 38,976 Anglicans, 23,893 Baptists, and 7722 Presby- 
terians. In Bihar and Orissa there were, in British territory, in 1911, 
229,825 Christians, of whom 93,511 were Roman Catholics^ 88,051 
Lutherans, 37,307 Anglicans, and 7374 Baptists. While the total 
number of Christians in Bengal had risen by only 23,150, there was 
an increase of 95,767 in Bihar and Orissa. In the Chota Nagpur 
plateau there was an addition of 52,397 in the Ranchi District, and 
of 31,934 in the Gangpore State. Since 1901 the growth in Ranchi 
has been 42 per cent.; the converts in 1911 numbered 177,112, or 
13 per cent, of the population ; in fact, there were more than twice 
as many Indian Christians in this District as in the whole of Bengal. 
In the decade 1901-11 all the Missions in Ranchi made advances ; 
the Roman Catholic from 54,401 to 77jS44, the Lutheran from 57,668 
to 75,581, the Anglican from 13,078 to 23,856. , Next to the Ranchi 
District the largest numbers of Native Christians are to be found 
in the Santal Parganas, viz., 9731. Mr L. S. S. O’Malley’s Report 
on the Census (1911) of Bihar and Orissa has some interesting 
paragraphs (487 to 504) on Indian Christians, Christian Missions, 
their history, and the numerical results of their labours. In the 
United Provinces of Agra and Oudh there were, in 1911, 179,694 
Christians, against 102,955 ten years before. There the Indian 
Christians have risen from 69,000 to 138,000; the Methodists had 
104,000 converts. The influence of Christianity is strikingly illustrated 
by the figures for Bihar and Orissa, where the proportion of Indian 
Christians who are literate (able to read and write) is 76 per 1000, 
compared with only 5 per 1000 amongst their animistic congeners. 
In the Panjab the Indian Christians numbered, in 1911, 163,220, 


Introd. THE INDIAN MUTINY, 1 857 cxlv 

mainly from the Chuhra tribe, which includes sweepers ; the largest 
numbers are in the Sialkot District and on the Chenab Colony (p. 
324)5 where their development will be a matter of special interest. In 
1881 there were only 4000 Native Christians in the Panjab. What- 
. ever may be individual opinions regarding the work or results of 
I proselytising in India, the value of the work done in the mission 
,j colleges and schools is immense, and is becoming very far-reaching 
m its effects. The Protestant missions with the largest number of 
converts are the C-IM.S., American Baptist Union, Methodist Episcopal 
Church, London Missionary Society, and S.P.G. The efforts of the 
missionary societies are necessarily dependent to a great extent 
on the financial support they receive from Great Britain, Europe, 
and America, The movement — towards conversion — is partly social, 
owing to improvement in the condition of the people through British 
rule; partly religious, owing to missionary work. Converts ordinarily 
j show a very marked elevation in morality and education, which results 
^ in a reflex influence on the higher classes. On the latter Christianity 
has its effect chiefly through education ; but the conversions are far 
I less numerous than among the lower classes, though there are not 
a few prominent cases. The spread of ethical and philanthropic 
ideals of Christianity also operates, largely through medical missions. 
According to the latest reports available, the Anglican and Protestant 
missions in India had 436 medical missionaries, so that the number 
of mission hospitals and dispensaries w^as about 900. The number 
of pupils in elementary mission schools was about 1,250,000 ; the 
missionary colleges had about 5500 students. The European 
missionaries at work numbered about 5200, of whom 2076 were men 
and 3124 women ; the Indian missionaries were about 38,458, of 
whom 28,320 were men and the rest w'omen. The Roman Catholic 
missions had 1300 students in colleges, and 2751 schools with 98,000 
pupils. The total number of pupils in Roman Catholic schools \vas 
MSiOOo boys and 73,000 girls. 

In Ceylon there w^ere 54,967 scholars in Roman Catholic, 32,713 in 
Anglican, and 29,192 in Wesleyan schools. In Burma the Anglican 
^fission had 16 ordained Indian missionaries and 10,000 Indian 
Christians connected with it. The American Baptist Mission had 
about 200 American missionaries (including waves) and 2200 Indian 
workers, with a total of 120,549 Christian adherents to the Mission. 


THE MUTINY OF 1857 

As the mutiny of the Bengal army in 1857 forms, perhaps, the 
most importani episode in the whole history of British rule in India, 

k 



cl 


India 


THE INDIAN MUTINY, 1857 

Lucknow, and a Company's Regiment, the 3rd Kuropeans, at Agra. 
Lord Canning, who was at Calcutta, made energetic efforts to 
obtain reinforcements. The Madras Fusiliers, undei Colonel 
\eill, ai rived at Calcutta on the 23rd May ; the bgfh and 70th 
from Persia early in June ; and other British troops from Burma, 
Ceylon, and Singapore, and loyal sepoys from Madras, were soon 
collected. A force which was on its way to China was, with the 
consent of Lord Elgin, diverted to Calcutta ; several regiments were 
despatched from the Cape Colony ; and urgent requests for additional 
troops were sent to England. But the means of transport for tho^e 
on the spot were altogether insufficient : the railway from Calcutta 
had been completed only as far as Raniganj, a distance of 120 mile^. 
and there was difficulty m procuring country carriage ; and so it 
happened that the troops from Calcutta were only just in time to 
secure Benares and Allahabad, and it was not till the 7th July that 
(ieneral Havelock was able to advance from the last place with an 
inadequate force of 2000 men. (leneral Anson, who was at Simla m 
May, at once collected the Britibh and Curkha regiments which wi re- 
in the hills, and began to move on Delhi ; but his progress wa^ slow, 
owing to lack of transport and commissariat, and on the 27th May 
he died of cholera at Karnal. The attack upon Delhi did not liegin 
until the Sth June, when Sir H. Barnard, with a force amounting to 
3800 men, defeated a rebel army of 30,000 men at Badli'ki-barai, 
and thus obtained possession of the famous ridge overlooking the 
w'alls of Delhi. (General Barnard died of cholera on the 5th Julv, and 
w'as succeeded by (ieneral Reed, who resigned on the 17th owing to 
ili-health, handing over the command to General Archdale Wilson. 
The mutineers had purposely timed their rising foi the beginning ol 
the hot w’eather, knowing how- debilitating active operations are at 
that period to all Europeans, For some time the British, while 
atfeciing to invest Delhi, w'ere themselves closely besieged on the 
ridge. In the Panjab Sir John LawTence w'as ably supported by :>ueh 
men as Chamberlain, Nicholson, Edwardes, and Montgomery; and 
the local mutinies or threats of mutiny at Peshawar, Naushahra, 
Multan, Meean Meer, and Ferozepore were energetically suppressed 
by disarmament, and the important arsenals at Phdlaur and Ferozepore 
w-ere secured. A movable column w-as formed, under the command, 
tirst, of General Chamberlain, and afterwards of General Nicholson, 
to suppress any further risings in the Panjab, and then to march on 
Delhi : the value of the courage and decision of Nicholson can 
hardly be over-estimated. I'he Panjab w-as in a restless condition. 
With his small force, moving from place to place, disarming or 
dispersing the mutineers, Nicholson kept mutiny from spreading. 
But u was not until the 14th August, three months after the Meerut 



INDIAN MUTINY — SHOWING DISTRIBUTION OF TROOPS ON Ut MAY 1857 






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Inirod, DELHI, ca.\vnpore, and LUCKNOW cli 

outbreak, that be was able to join the British force at Delhi. 
No final move could be made there until, on the 6th September, 
the siege guns arrived from Ferozepore. These opened on the 
walls on the nth, and prepared the way for the storming of the 
city on the 14th and the final capture of Delhi on the 20th. It 
came not a day too soon. Sir John Lawrence had emptied his 
province of British troops, sending every possible man to Delhi ; 
and the Sikhs and other Panjabis were becoming uneasy at the 
idea that the British might not regain their position. If these 
troops had not stood by us, we should have had to begin again the 
conquest of India. 

Meanwhile the British between Calcutta and Delhi wxre in sore 
straits. At Agra the sepoys were disarmed on the 31st May ; but, 
although the Maharaja Sindhia of Gwalior was himself loyal, his 
fine body of disciplined troops only awaited an opportunity to march 
on .Agra. At Cawnpore Sir H. Wheeler’s small garrison capitulated 
on the 26th June, and were massacred next day, most of the women 
and children being made prisoners. At Lucknow a small British 
force was holding out against enormous numbers of the enemy. 
General Havelock advanced to their assistance with 1400 British 
and 600 Sikh troops, leaving Allahabad on the 7th July. The line 
between Calcutta and Allahabad was disturbed and communications 
threatened, and no substantial reinforcements could be sent to him 
till the middle of September. When he had marched for five days 
from Allahabad he defeated a large force of mutineers and Mahrattas 
at Fatehpur, and fought two other successful battles on the 15th of 
July at Aong and Pandu Nadi. On the evening of that day, 
being then 22 miles from Cawnpore, he learned that the British 
women and children of Wheelers garrison were still alive, and, 
tired as his men were, he marched them 14 miles that night, defeated 
the Nana Sahib next day in three separate actions, and rested his 
weary troops on the outskirts of Cawnpore on the evening of the 
i6th. The heat was so intense that some of his men died from 
sunstroke or exhaustion. The captives had, however, been murdered 
by the orders of the Nana on the 15th, when General Havelock had 
started on his last desperate effort to save them. On the 17th he 
occupied Cawnpore. On the 20th, leaving 300 men under General 
Neill, he began the crossing of the Ganges with 1500 men. On 
the 29th he defeated the rebels at Unao and Basiratganj ; but, 
finding immense numbers of mutineers still between him and 
Lucknow, while his own force had been reduced to 850 effectives, 
he had no alternative but to retire to Cawnpore. On the 4th August 
he marched out of Cawnpore a second time with 1400 men ; on the 
5th he again defeated the rebels at Basiratganj, but his losses from 



clii THE INDIAN MUTINV, 1 857 India 

disease, as well as battle, had been so great that it was hopeless 
to proceed farther, and he fell back once more, reaching Cawnpore 
on the 13th. On the i6th he attacked and defeated 4000 sepoys at 
Bithur. He had now only looo effectives. In his front towards 
Lucknow were some 30,000 rebels ; at Larrukhabad were probably 
as many more ; he was threatened on both flanks ; and had to face 
on the South the Gwalior Contingent and many other smaller bodies 
— yet he courageously determined to keep his position at Cawnpore 
instead of falling back upon xA.llahabad. The relief of Lucknow was, 
however, out of the question until reinforcements arrived. These 
dribbled in during the next month, but there was dangerous delay 
between Calcutta and Allahabad, some 6000 men, who might have 
been sent on to Havelock, being detained to suppress local dis- 
turbances. On the 15th September Sir James Outram, who had 
been appointed to command the relieving force, arrived at Cav\npore, 
but in the most generous and chivalrous manner forbore to supersede 
General Havelock, and thus left the honour of relieving Lucknow to 
the man who had already made such able and gallant efforts to that 
end. Al length, on the 19th September, General Havelock crossed 
thp Ganges with 3cxx) men. He defeated the rebels at Mangalwar 
on the 21st, and on the 23rd, 24th, and 25th gradually fought his 
way into Lucknow, and finally effected a junction with the garrison 
late in the evening of the last date with a loss of 700 out of his 
3000 men. General Outram then took command of the old and the 
new garrisons at Lucknow. Delhi having fallen to the British 
between the 14th and 20th September, many of the mutineers there 
proceeded to Lucknow, and General Outram found it impossible to 
fight his way out taking with him the women, children, and sick 
of the old garrison. He therefore remained on the defensive, 
closely invested, until the final relief of Lucknow two months 
later. 

The dangerous period of the mutiny ended with the capture of 
Delhi and the first relief of Lucknow towards the end of September. 
From this time the British position was assured by the arrival of 
reinforcements from England, In front of them came Sir Colin 
Campbell, the newly-appointed Commander-in-Chief in India, who 
reached Calcutta on the 17th August. His first care was to arrange 
that regular detachments of the reinforcements should be forwarded 
with all speed. Then he started for the seat of war, and reached 
Cawnpore early in November. Leaving 1000 men under General 
Windham at that place, he moved on Lucknow with 5000 ; reached 
the Alam Bagh on the X2th November; left a garrison there; 
marched upon the rebels with .4200 men on the i6th ; and effected 
.a junction with Outram^s beleaguered force on the 17th, though with 



Introd. RELIEF AND CAPTURE OF LUCKNOW cliii 

a loss of nearly 500 men. The original Lucknow garrison, which 
had been closely invested since the 2nd July, a period of more than 
four months, was thus finally relieved. But Sir Colin found the 
rebels so numerous, and the difficulty of escorting the women, children, 
and sick safely out of Lucknow so great, that he felt unable to hold 
Lucknow, in addition, and accordingly evacuated it on the 22nd, 
leaving General Outram at the Alam Bagh with 4000 men to 
maintain the appearance of British authority. General Havelock 
died of dysentery on the 24th Xovember. When Sir Colin reached 
Cawnpore with his precious human freight he found that (General 
^Vlndham had been defeated by the Mahratta Tantia Topi, and had 
been gradually forced out of the city of Cawnpore into his entrench- 
ments on the banks of the Ganges. On the 3rd December the 
tamilies and sick from Lucknow were sent on to Allahabad, and then 
bir Colin attacked Tantia Topi and dispersed his army. Beyond 
clearing the Doab, the country between the Ganges and Jumna, little 
was done in the next three months except to collect further troops. 
On the 2nd March 1858 Sir Colin joined General Outram at the 
.'\lam Bagh with a force which the constant streams from Calcutta 
had at last raised to 19,000 men with 120 guns. To this was shortly 
added a brigade under General Franks and a contingent of Nepalese 
under Maharaja Jang Bahadur, which brought the army up to a 
total of 31,000 men and 164 guns. The mutineers in Lucknow 
numbered 90,000 trained men and a large force of irregulars, and 
they had employed their respite in erecting three strong lines of 
defences around their position. Sir Colin^s attack began on the 
7th March, and he finally drove off the enemy and captured Lucknow 
on the 15th. 

On the 20th Lord Canning issued the Confiscation Proclamation, 
by which the estates of all the important chiefs in Oudh were 
escheated. Most of them, although certainly not loyal, had abstained 
from active participation in the revolt. They now rose, and were 
joined by other leaders who believed that they would be similarly 
treated, and had, therefore, nothing to lose but everything to gain by 
opposing the British. Thus it happened that, although the sepoys 
were dispersed, only small bands of them still remaining in the field, 
new enemies sprang up who were not subdued until the end of the 
year 1858, by which time there were 100,000 British troops in India. 
Of the various British brigades which operated in different parts of 
the country, the principal was that under Sir Hugh Rose (afterwards 
Lord Strathnairn) in Central India. On the 8th January 1858 
General Rose left Mhow with a Bombay force, and, marching north- 
wards, captured the fortresses of Rabatgarh on the 28th and Garhakota 
on the 13th February. After se\'eral successful battles he arrived 



cliv 


India 


THE INDIAN MUTINY lSS 7 


before the walls of Jhansi on the 21st ^larch. On the ist April he 
totally defeated Tantia Topi, who was marching to the relief of 
Jhansi with 22,000 men, and stormed and captured Jhansi on the 4th 
April. The Rani fled with her defeated troops towards Kalpi, w'here 
Tantia Topi was collecting another army. General Rose marched 
out of Jhansi on the 25th April, defeated Tantia Topi on the 6th 
May, and captured Kalpi on the 23rd. The Rani then fled to 
Gwalior, where she was joined by the Maharaja’s troops, and thus 
obtained possession of the strong fortress. In spite of the great 
heat General Rose marched upon Gwalior, and took it on the 20th 
June, the Rani, dressed as a man, being killed in one of the actions 
which took place round the fortress. The Mahratta leader was 
persistently hunted through Central India and Rajputana during the 
summer and the ensuing cold weather, and covered 3000 miles in his 
flight before he was betrayed ten months later, on the 7th April 1859, 
and was tried and hanged. He had fought against us gallantly 
for over a year ; but he had also given the signal for the massacre 
on 27th June 1857 at the Sati Chaura Ghat at Cawnpore. Meanwhile 
the rebellion in Oudh and the North-West Provinces had been 
gradually suppressed, and the Nana had been driven into the Nepal 
jungle, where he is believed to have died of fever. The prophet who 
had announced that the Company’s rule would end in 1857, a hundred 
years after the Battle of Plassey, was not far out in his reckoning. 
On the 1st November 1858, at a grand darbar at Allahabad, Lord 
Canning announced that the Company’s possessions in India were 
transferred to the British Crown. 

Since the mutiny there has been a great change in British policy. 
The British troops, in 1857 one-sixth of the native, are now one-half.^ 
All the strong fortresses, magazines, and arsenals, are garrisoned by 
British soldiers ; there are no batteries of native artillery of any 
importance; and the modern preparations for transport, commissariat, 
and mobilisation, combined with the railway system and telegraphs 
(including wireless telegraphy), ensure the speedy movement of British 
troops to any given spot The high-caste sepoy has been to a con- 
siderable extent replaced by a less exacting soldier, and the danger 
of a groundless religious panic thereby lessened. The right of 
adoption, for which many of the Chiefs fought, has been conceded. 
The policy of annexation in India has been abandoned. The pay of 
the sepoy has been raised, whether on service in his own country 
or in foreign districts ; and to the British officers of native regiments 
—still too few in numbers in spite of a wise recent increase the 


1 In 1915-^6: European army 74.760, includmg officers; Indian army, 
163 055, including 3197 European officers and non-commissioned officers (Mora/ 
and Material Progress Report of India, 1915-16, p. 36;. 



Introd. 


REMARKABLE EVENTS 


clv 


attractions of civil or stalf employment are not so freely offered as 
they formerly were. Both races have learned their lesson. The 
best proof is that, whereas formerly sepoy mutinies were of frequent 
occurrence, no single example has occurred in the space of sixty 
years to revive memories of the great tragedy of 1857. 


REMARKABLE EVENTS CONNECTING INDIA 
WITH EUROPE, AND IN INDIA 


The I'ortuguese Vasco da Gama, sailing round the Cape of Good 
Hope, reached Calicut on the Malabai Coast .... 
i^ortuguese factory at Cannanore, 1501. Port there . . • *5^5 

The Portuguese Viceroy, Albuquerque, captured Goa • . • 15^® 

Poctuguese established at Calicut (abandoned in 1525), Cannanore, 

Goa, Ceylon, Socotra (1507), Malacca (1511), Ormuz (1525), Chaul 

after 1510 


1528 

1530 
1542 

up to 1595 
the 

1559 

1576-1616 


(1531) 

Attempt to reach India by the N.E. and N. V . passages 
The Portuguese began to frequent the Hooghly . 

Arrival of St PTancis Xavier, S. j., in India 
Portuguese supremacy in the ICastein seas 

Bassein, Salsette, and ^ombay ceded to the Portuguese by 
Chief of Gujarat, 1534. Diu, 1535* Daman 
Attempts to force a N.W. passage to India . . . • _ 

Thomas Stephens, of New College, Oxford, became rector of the 
Jesuits’ College at Salsette . . . . . • •^579 

The Portuguese power in India suffered from the Union with Spain, 
which lasted .... .... 1580-1640 

The Levant Company’s Expedition reached India by land . . - 15^9 

The first Dutch fleet doubled the Cape of Good Hope . • • i595 

The Dutch in India 1596-1824 

Commercial ascendency of Holland in the Eastern seas . . 17th century 

Chirter from Queen Elizabeth to ‘‘The Governor and Company of 

Merchants of London trading to the East Indies’ December 1600 

Nine “separate voyages of the East India Company to India . . 1600-12 

The Dutch East India Company formed .... • 1602 

Foundation of the first English factory bv Lancaster at Bantam, in 

Java 1602-03 

The first French East India Company formed . . . • • 1604 

Captain Hawkins at Surat and Agra as envoy to the “Great ^ 

Mogul ” 1608 

The Dutch occupied Pulicat {23 m. N. of Madras) . . • • 1609 



civi 


REMARKABLE EVENTS 


India 


DATES 

The Emperor Jahangir issued a proclamation permitting the English 
to establish factories at Surat, Ahmadabad, Cambay, and Gogo, 

An English factory founded at Masulipatam. The second French 
East India Company ......... i6ii 

The first Danish East India Company formed- Captain Best defeated 
the Portuguese squadron at Swally, off Surat. Factory established 
at Surat . . . . . . . . . . .l6l2 

The third French East India Company . . . . . .1615 

Sir Thomas Roe, ambassador to Jahangir, obtained favourable con- 
cessions for English trade ....... 1615-18 

Decline of Spanish and Portuguese power in India . . , 1615-50 

Tranquebar granted to the Danes ....... i6i6 

English Agents in Bengal, at Agra and Patna ..... 1620 

The English occupied Ormuz, in the Persian Gulf .... 1622 

The English at Batavia resolved to withdraw from the Moluccas. 

Amboyna, and the Spice Islands ..... January 1625 

Massacre of the English by the Dutch at Amboyna . . February 1623 

An English factory founded at Armagaon, on the Coromandel 

coast ............ 1626 


French Companies formed under Richelieu .... 1630-42 

The English Company allowed to trade in the Mughal dominions . 1634 

Surat the chief establishment of the English ..... 1638 

Fort St George founded at INfadras by Francis Day .... 1639 

The East India Company's factory at Hooghly. .... 1640 

Gabriel Bough ton, surgeon of the Hopewell^ obtained trom the 
Emperor Shah Jahan exclusive privileges of trading in Bengal for 
the English Company as a reward for his professional services to 
the Governor of Bengal ........ 1645 

Dutch colony at the Cape of Good Hope as a half-way station to the 

East ........... 1651 

First war between England and Holland .... 1651-54 

Madras (Fort St George) made into a Presidency .... 1653 

Treaty of Westminster, between Oliver Cromwell and John IV. of 

Portugal, opened the Portuguese E. India to the English loth July 1654 
Oliver Cromwell’s charter to the East India Company . . . 1657 

The Dutch drove the Portuguese from Ceylon. Madras made in- 
dependent of Bantam, in Java ....... 1658 

Murder of Afzal Khan by Sivaji ...... 1659 

The Dutch took Negapatam from the Portuguese .... 1660 

Rise of the Mahratta power under Sivaji .... 1660-80 

Bombay ceded to England by the Portuguese as part of the 
dowry of the Infanta Catherine of Braganza on her marriage 
with Charles II. ........ . 1661 

Sack of Surat by Sivaji. French East India Company established by 

Colbert. English Settlement at Calicut . . . . . 166^ 

Second war with Holland 1665 

Treaty of Breda, settling disputes in Asia ♦ . . . . 1667 

Bombay granted to the East India Company for ^10 annual lent . 1668 

Second sack of Surat by Sivaji 1670 

Third war with Holland . . . . . * , ^ 1672 

French settlement established at Pondicherry by F. Martin ! 1674 

Death of Sivaji ••/•■..... 1680 

Bengal made a separate Pre^idcnc\ . . . ’ 

East India Company’s factory moved from Siuat tn Bombay ! 1687 

East India Company’s war against .‘Vurangzeb . . ' 16S7-89 



Inirod. 


REMARKABLE EVENTS 


clvii 


DATES 

Calcutta founded by Job Charnock .... 24th August 1690 

War in Europe with France ...... 1690-97 

East India Company built Fort William at Calcutta . . . i 6 g 6 

The Peace of Ryswick, Pondicherry restored to the French . . 1697 

A new English Company formed, with a capital of £2,000,000. 

French settlement at Calicut ....... 1698 

The old Company bought the site of Calcutta from Azim-us-shan, 

Governor of Bengal ........ 1700 

The old and new Companies formed into “The United Company of 

Merchants of England trading to the East Indies*^ . . . 1702 

War with France . . 1702-13 

Death of the Emperor Aurangzeb, and rapid decline of the Mughal 

power ........... 1707 

Through the arbitration of Lord Godolphin, 1708, the t^vo English 

Companies were amalgamated ....... 1709 

Peace betw^een France and England ..... 1713-44 

Mauritius occupied by the French, 1715. Growth of French East 

India Company ........ I7I5"45 

New French East India Company . . . . , . .1722 

The Austrian Emperor, Charles VI. , granted a charter to the Ostend 

Company, 1723. Withdrawn ....... 1725 

India invaded by Nadir Shah of Persia. General massacre at Delhi 

and immense treasure carried away . . . . . .1739 

Dupleix, Governor of Pondicherry ...... 1741-54 

Aliverdi Khan, Nawab of Bengal ....... I742 

England and France at war in Europe ...... I744 

A French fleet under La Bourdonnais captured Madras . 14th Sept. 174^ 

French and English at war on the Coromandel coast . . 1746-49 

A British fleet under Admiral Boscawen besieged Pondicherry, but 
was repulsed, 174S. The treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle, 174^-' restored 
Madras to the British ....... 1748-49 

Ahmad Shah Abdali (Durani) seized the Panjab ’ . . • 1748-51 

Nizam-ul-mulk (Chin Kilich Khan, Asaf Jah), of the Deccan, died . 174^ 

War of Succession in the Carnatic 1/49-54 

Dupleix placed his nominees on the thrones at Hyderabad and Arcot. 

The British supported Muhammad Ali at Arcot. War between the 
English and French in the Carnatic ..... 1751-54 

Bussy at Hyderabad. Capture and subsequent defence of Arcot by 

Clive - -1751 

The French capitulated at Trichinopoly, 13th June. Danish factory 

established at Calicut . . . • • • • ■ *752 

Clive returned to England , . . . * • • r753 

Dupleix superseded. Treaty of peace between the British and French 
signed at Pondicherry . . . • • • - • *754 

Clive returned to India . . . . • • ■ • *755 

War ^between France and England. Suraj-ud-daula, Nawab of 
Bengal, captured Calcutta, 20th June. The tragedy of the 

Black Hole . 175^ 

Recapture of Calcutta by Clive, 2nd Januar>\ Battle of Pla^sey, 

23rd June. War with France renewed in the Carnatic . . 1757 

Ahmad Shah Abdali occupied the Panjab .... 1757-60 

Mahratta invasion of the Panjab . . . ■ • • • *75^ 

Lally arrived with a French fleet. He took Fort St David and Arcot ; 
besieged Madras ; raised the siege, I759- Clive appointed the 
first Governor of the Company’s settlements in Bengal . . *75^*59 



clviii 


REMARKABLE EVENTS 


India 


DATES 

Clive, through Colonel Forde, defeated the Dutch at Biderra, near 

Chinsura ........ 25th November 1759 

Eyre Coote totally defeated Lally at the battle of Wandiwash, 

22nd January. Arcot taken by the British. Clive sailed for 
England ......... . 1760 

Period of misrule in Bengal ....... 1760-65 

Pondicherry capitulated to the British. Fall of the French power in 
the Deccan. Ahmad Shah Abdali defeated the Mahrattas at 


Panipat ........... 1761 

Pondicherry restored to the French by the treaty of Paris. Massacre 

of English prisoners at Patna ....... 1763 

The first sepoy mutiny suppressed by Major Hector Munro, who 
defeated the Nawab-Wazir of Oudh at the decisive battle of 
Buxar, 23rd October. Dupleix died in poverty at Paris . . 1764 

Lord Clive arrived at Calcutta as Governor of Bengal and Cnm- 
mander-in-Chief. The revenues of Bengal, Bihar, and Orissa 
granted to the Company by the Emperor, Shah Alam II. Alliances 
with the Mughal Emperor and the Nawab-Wazir of Oudh . . 1765 

The Northern Circars fSarkars) ceded to the British, Clive prohibited 
the servants of the Company from engaging in private trade or 
accepting presents, and increased their salaries. Lally executed at 
Paris ........... 1766 

Clive left India, 1767 The Nizam and Hyder Ali attacked the 

British. First Mysore war ...... 1767-69 

The Nizam ceded the revenue of part of the Carnatic . . , iy68 

Ilyder Ali overran the Carnatic and dictated a peace within a few 
miles of Madras. Treaty with the Nizam, Mysore, and the 
Mahrattas .......... 1769 

Terrible famine in Bengal ........ 1770 

The East India Company stood forth as Diwan of Bengal . . . 1771 

Mahratta incursions into North-West India . . " . . 1771-73 

Parliamentary Committee ' on Indian affairs. Warren Hastings 
Governor of Bengal. Treaty between the Nawab-Wazir of Oudh, 
and Rohillas, for defence against the Mahrattas .... 1772 

Motion condemning Clive's conduct in India defeated. The Regulat- 
ing Act passed by Parliament. Agreement between Hastings and 
Oudh Nawab for joint invasion of Rohilkhand . . . • ^773 

Warren Hastings fitst Governor- General of Bengal, with supremacy 
of the Bengal Presidency over the other Presidencies. The 
Supreme Court established at Calcutta. Rohilla war ; the Rohilla 
Chiefs defeated by the British. Annexation of Rohilkhand to 


Oudh. Clive committed suicide in England .... 1774 

The Nawab-Wazir of Oudh ceded Benares and Ghazipur. The 
Bombay Government occupied Salsette and Bassein. Battle of 
Arras. Nuncomar convicted and hanged for forgery, 5th August . 1775 

The First Mahratta War 1775-82 

French correspondence with Mahrattas and Mysore . . . 1777-78 

War with France in Europe 

General Goddard’s celebrated march across India . . . 

Repulse by Mahrattas of English advance on Poona. Convention of 
Wargaon, January. League against English of Mahrattas, Mysore, 
and N^i2iain ^ 1779 

Captain Popham captured Gwalior, 3rd August. Hyder Ali took 
Arcot and ravaged the Carnatic. Warren Hastings wounded Sir 
Philip Francis in a duel, r7th August 2730 



Introd, 


REMARKABLE EVENTS 


clix 


DATES 

England at war with Spam, Holland, France, and American Colonies. 

Sir Eyre Coote defeated Hyder at Porto Novo, ist July. The 
British captured the Dutch ports of Pulicat and Sadras. Negapatam 
annexed to the British dominions. Insurrection at Benares . . 17S1 

Final expedition of French against English in India . . . 1781-82 

Indecisive naval battles between French under Suffrein and English 
under Hughes. Treaty of peace with Mahrattas at Salbai. Death 
of Hyder Ali. The French assisted Tipu Sultan, his son ' . . 1782 

Fox’s India Bill rejected by Parliament. The captured French 

possessions restored to them by the treaty of Versailles . . . 1783 

Peace with Tipu Sultan : the conquests on both sides restored by the 
treaty of Mangalore. Pitt’s India Act established a Board of Control 1784 
Warren Hastings left India. The Sikh po^^er established in the 

Panjab. Mahdaji Scindia occupied Delhi .... 1785 

Lord Cornwallis Governor-Cleneral ..... 1786-93 

Tipu sent embassies to the French and Turks ..... 1787 

Warren Blastings impeached, 13th February, by the House of 
Commons before the House of Lords, for corruption, oppression, 
and maladministration ........ 1788 

Tipu Sultan ravaged part of Travancore ..... 1789-90 

Cannanore finally taken by the British . . . . . ‘ . 179^ 

I.ord Cornwallis led the Bntisli army against Tipu Sultan in person 

in the Third Mysore Wai ....... 1790-92 

Lord Cornwallis took Bangalore. 21st March, joined by the Nizam 

and the Peshwa ........ I79i 

The allies stormed and took Seringapatam. Tipu "Sultan ceded half 
of his dominions to be divided between the British, the Nizam, and 
the Peshwa, and agreed to pay ^^3, 000, 000. Calicut came finally 
under the East India Company by the treaty of Seringapatam . 1792 

Regular Courts established in Bengal. The revenue settlement of 
Lord Cornwallis in Bengal, by w^hich the zamindars. who had 
been the revenue agents of the Mughal Emperor, were declared 
to be landowmers, was made permanent. The great war with 
France begun. Pondicherry taken from the French for the third 
time. Act of Parliament to restrain war in India , . . ^793 

Death of Mahdaji Scindia ........ I794 

Warren Hastings acquitted, 23rd April, after a trial lasting seven years. 

The Company granted him ^^4000 a year for life. The Nizam 
defeated by the Mahrattas at Kurd la . . • • I795 

The Dutch settlements at the Cape, taken i795» Ceylon . i79^ 

Shah Zaman, of Afghanistan, invaded the Panjab . . . I797 

Tipu’s correspondence with French and Afghans . . - ^797 9 ^ 

Expedition of Buonaparte to Egypt. Tipu sent an embassy to the 

Mauritius 1798 

Lord Mornington (later Marquis Wellesley) Governor-General . 1798*1805 

Buonaparte, at Cairo, wrote a letter to Tipu. Seringapatam stormed 
and Tipu slain, 4th Mav. His dominions diVided between ihe 
Nizam and the British ........ I799 

Rise of Maharaja Ranjit Singh in the Panjab . . . 1799-1839 

The Nizam gave up his share of Mysore in consideration of British 

protection, by a subsidiary treaty ...... 1800 

The Nawab of the Carnatic ceded Nellore, North and South Arcot, 
Trichinopoly, and Tinnevelly. The Naw-ab-Wazir of Oudh ceded 
Rohilkhand and the Ganges Doab. Ceylon made a Crow'n Colony. 

Civil war among the Mahrattas and flight of the Peshwa . . 1801 



clx 


REMARKABLE EVENTS 


India 


DATE 

Treaty of Bassein, by which the foreign relations of the Peshwa were 
to be supervised by the British ; restoration of the Peshwa. Peace 
of Amiens in Europe ........ 1802 

Mahratta War. League of Scindia and the Raja of Nagpur. Battle of 
Assaye, 23rd September ; General Wellesley (afterwards Duke of 
Wellington), with 4500 men, defeated 50,000 Mahrattas under 
Scindia and the Nagpur Raja ; he again defeated the Mahrattas at 
Argaum, 28th November. Lord Lake defeated the Mahrattas at 
Aligarh, 4th September, Delhi, nth September, and Laswari, ist 
November ; and captured Delhi and Agra, i8th October. Treaty 
of peace at Sirji Anjengaora, 30th December, with Scindia and the 
Nagpur Raja. Cession of the Northern districts, of what are no_w the 
United Provinces. The Mughal Emperor of Delhi became the 
pensioner of the British. Conquest of Cuttack. Renewal of 
w^ar with France ......... 1803 

Advance of Colonel Monson into Holkar‘s territory, and disastrous 
retreat from -8th July to 30th August. Capture of Indore. Storm 
and capture of Dig, 23rd December. Holkar’s attack on Delhi 

defeated 1804 

Lord Lake abandoned the siege of Bharatpur. Holkar ceded all 
claims in Bundelkhand, and extensive territory elsewhere. The 
Marqjiess Cornwallis, Governor - General (2nd time) and Com- 
mander-in-Chief, 30th July, died at Ghazipur, 5th October . . 1805 

Cape of Good Hope finally taken from the Dutch by Sir D, Baird. 

Mutiny of sepoys at Vellore suppressed by Colonel Gillespie . . 1806 

Sir George Barlow', Governor-General . loth October 1805 to 31st July 1807 
Napoleon contemplated a French - Russian expedition to India. 

French embassy to Persia ...... 1807-8 

Lord Minto, Governor- General ..... 1807-13 

Lord Minto despatched missions, to Persia (Malcolm), to Kabul 

(Elphinstone), to Lahore (Metcalfe) ...... 1808 

Conquest of the Mauritius (lie de France) and Java . . . 1810-11 

The Indian trade thrown open by charter to all comers, and mis- 
sionaries allowed to enter India . . . . . .1813 

Lord Moira (later Marquis of Hastings) Governor-General . 1813-23 

Middleton, first Bishop of Calcutta ..... 1814-22 

War declared against Nepal. The British repulsed . . . 

General Ochterlony defeated the Gurkhas (Nepalese) at Malaun. 


End of the French war. British conquests in the East confirmed by 
treaty . .......... jgjr 

Treaty of Sagauli with the Nepalese. Large cession of territory from 

Nepal, including hill stations . . . . . . . l8l6 

Operations against the Pindari bands of freebooters . . . 1817-18 

Mahratta War. Peshwa attacked the Poona Presidency. Battle of 
Kirkee, 5th November. Defeat of the Peshw'a and capture of 
Poona. Outbreak at Nagpur. Battle of Sitabaldi, 26th to 27th 
November. Defeat of the Raja of Nagpur. Battle of Mahidpur, 

2ist December. Defeat of Holkar. Cession of Ajmer by ScinW’ 1817 
Defence of Korigaum, ist January, by 800 sepoys, with 10 British 
officers, against 25,000 Mahrattas. Holkar ceded territory. The 
Peshwa surrendered His dominions, annexed, added to the 
Bombay Presidency . 1818 

The Nawab-Wazir of Oudh given the title of King ! ! ! ! i8iq 

Lord Amherst, Governor-General . . . . . *1823-28 

The first war with Burma 1824-26 



Introd, 


REMARKABLE EVENTS 


clxi 


Capture of Bharatpur, hitherto deemed impregnable, by Lord 
Combermere. Treaty of Yandabu. Cession by the Burmese of 
Assam, Arakan, and Tenasserim 


1826 


Lord William Bentinck, Governor-General and Commander-in-Chief 1828-35 
Sati, or widow -burning, declared by law to be “ culpable homicide,” 
by Lord W. Bentinck ........ 1829 

Mysore made a Protected State ....... 1831 

Commercial treaties with the Panjab, 1832, and with Sind 1832 and 1834 
Renewal of the East India Company’s charter on condition that the 
Company abandoned its monopoly of the China trade and acknow- 
ledged the right of Europeans to reside in India and acquire land . 1833 

Annexation of Coorg. Macaulay, the first I.egal Member of Council . 1834 

Lord W. Bentinck, the first Governor - General of all India, 
left India, having abolished Sati, suppressed (with the aid of Sir 
W. Sleeman) Thagi, reformed the judicial administration, restored 
the use of the vernacular language in all courts, extended education, 
effected the revenue settlement of the (now) United Provinces (with 
the aid of Mr Robert M. Bird), given the natives a share in the 
government, restored the finances, and promoted steam communica- 
tion vid Suez. Efforts to stop female infanticide. Freedom of the 
Press established ......... 1835 

The Earl of Auckland Governor-General .... 1836-42 

Lieutenant-Governorship of the North-West Provinces created . . 1836 

The Shah of Persia besieged Herat . .... 1837 

Hojit Muhammad, Amir of Afghanistan, received a Russian mission. 
Tripartite Treaty of British, Ranjit Singh, and Shah Shuja. War 
declared against Afghanistan by British. Slavery abolished, 

1st August .......... 1838 

Kandahar and Ghazni captured, Kabul occupied, Shah Shuja re- 
instated as Amir Death of Ranjit Singh, Maharaja of the Panjab. 

Capture of Aden ......... 1839 

Murder of Sir A. Burnes at Kabul, 2nd November ; of Sir W. H. 

Macnaghten, 23rd December. Insurrection at Kabul . . . 1841 

Retreat of British army of 4500 men from Kabul, of whom one only, 

Dr Br^Men, escaped to Jalalabad alive. Pollock forced the Khyber 
and joined Sale’s garrison at Jalalabad. Nott, via Kandahar, and 
Pollock, joined at Kabul, Che latter defeating the Afghans at 
Tezin, and rescuing Lady Sale and other Kabul prisoners. Return 
of the British army to India from Kabul. Murder of Shah Shuja 
at Kabul, and accession of Akbar Khan ..... 1842 

The Earl of Ellenborough, Governor-General. . . . 1842-44 

Sir Charles Napier defeated the Sind Amirs at Miani, 17th February, 
and at Hyderabad, 24th March. Annexation of Sind. Defeat of 
Scindia’s forces at Maharajpur and Panniar. Gwalior taken, 

29th December ..... ... 1843 

Lord Ellenborough recalled ... ... 1844 

Sir Henry (afterwards Lord) Hardinge, Governor-General . ^ 1844-48 

hirst Sikh War. General Sir Hugh Gough fought an indecisive action 
at Mudki, i8th December. Assault on the Sikh entrenchments at 
Firozshahr, 21st December. Danish possessions in India purchased 1845 
Sir Harry Smith defeated the Sikhs at Aliwal, 26th January. Sir 
H. Gough fought a desperate battle at Sobraon, loth February, 
which ended in the rout of the Sikh army. Jammu and Kashmir 
transferred to Maharaja Gulab Singh for ;f750,ooo. Treaty of 
Lahore, which was occupied ....... 1846 

I 



clxii 


REMARKABLE EVENTS 


India 


DATES 

Sikh insurrection in the Panjab. Second Sikh War. Unsuccessful 

siege of Multan. Annexation of Satara by lapse . . . 1848 

Earl (Marquis afterwards) of Dalhousie, Governor-General . 1848-56 

Multan besieged by General Whish, September 1848 ; stormed, 13th 
January 1849. Sir H. Gough fought an indecisive action at 
Chilianwala, 13th January ; he defeated the Sikhs at Gujarat, 21st 
February, after which they laid down their arms. Annexation of 
the Panjab after the conquest, 29th iSIarch ..... 

Second Burmese War. Annexation of Pegu after the war 
Annexation t5f Jhansi and Nagpur by lapse. The last Charter 
Act : the Legislative Council of the Governor-General reformed. 

First Indian Railway opened from Bombay to Thana, i6th 
April ........... 

Competitive system for civil appointments approved. Lower Bengal 
made a Lieutenant-Governorship. Sir Frederick lialliday the 
first Lieutenant-Governor ........ 

Insurrection of the Santals in Bengal ..... ^^55-56 

7th February — Annexation of Oudh owing to persistent misrule. 

Lord Dalhousie left India, having opened the first railway for 
traffic, formed a Department of Public Works, introduced cheap 
postage, constructed telegraphs, opened the Ganges Canal, and 
established an Education Department with the three Universities 
of Calcutta, Madras, and Bombay. 29th February — Lord 
Canning, Governor - General. The General Service Enlistment 
Act ........... 1856 

Jarrisetjee Jeejeebhoy, a philanthropic Parsi, made a Baronet. 

The Indian Mutiny. February — Mutinies at Barrackpore and Ber- 
hampore. The sepoys refused to use the new cartridges. 3rd May — 

Sir Henry Lawrence suppressed a mutiny of the 7th Oudh Irregulars 
at Lucknow. At Meerut eighty -five sepoys refused to use even the 
old cartridges and (9th May) were imprisoned in irons. Sunday, 
loth May — Rising of the sepoys at Meerut ; they released their 
comrades from jail, burnt the cantonment, and made for Delhi, 
ilth May — The mutineers reached Delhi, murdered the Europeans, 
and proclaimed the Mughal king, Bahadur Shah, Ruler of India. 

30th May — Mutiny in the cantonment near Lucknow. 4th June 
— Mutinies at Benares and Allahabad, and slaughter of Europeans. 

5th June — Mutiny at Jhansi. Massacre of the Europeans who 
had surrendered on a promise of their lives. Mutiny at Cawnpore. 

6th June — Attack upon Sir Hugh Wheeler in the entrenchment at 
Cawnpore. 8th June — Battle of Badli-ki-sarai, near Delhi. 

Defeat of the rebels, and occupation of the Ridge, nth June — 

Arrival of Colonel Neill with the Madras Fusiliers at Allahabad. 

23rd June — This being the hundredth anniversary of the Battle of 
Plassey, the mutineers made a determined assault on the Ridge at 
Delhi. 26th June — Capitulation of Sir H. Wheeler at Cawnpore on 
a promise from the Nana Sahib that the lives of all would be spared. 

27th June — Massacre of the garrison at Cawnpore by order of 
the Nana. 2nd July — Investment of the Residency buildings at 
Lucknow. Sir H. Lawrence mortally wounded by a shell. 7th 
July — General Havelock advanced from Allahabad with 2000 
men. i6th July — Murder of the British women and children at 
Cawnpore by order of the Nana. 17th July— General Havelock 
retook Cawnpore. 14th August— Arrival of General Nicholson's 
column at the Ridge, Delhi. 6th September— Battering train arrived 


1849 

1852 

1853 

1854 



Inirod. 


REMARKABLE EVENTS 


clxiii 


DAI ES 

at the Ridge. 14th to 20th September —Delhi stormed with a loss 
to the British of 1200 men. General Nicholson mortally wounded. 

25th September — Generals Havelock and Outram fought their way 
into Lucknow 25th to 26th September, but were unable to relieve 
It completely. Death of General Neill. Sir Colin Campbell 
relieved Lucknow, 17th November. Lucknow evacuated, 22nd 
November. Death of General Havelock, 24th November. 

General Windham driven into his entrenchments at Cawnpore, 

27th November, by the Gwalior rebels, who plundered the city. 

Sir Colin Campbell defeated the Gwalior rebels, 6th December . i 857 

Sir Colin Campbell reconquered Lucknow, 19th March. Sir Hugh 
Rose (afterwards Lord Strathnairn) captured Jhansi, 3rd April, and 
Gwalior, 20th June. Loyalty of Dost Muhammad, Amir of 
Afghanistan, and Jang Bahadur, Prime Minister of Nepal, through- 
out the mutiny. 1st November — The Government of India trans- 
ferred from the East India Company to the British Crown, 
represented by a Viceroy. Lord Canning the first Viceroy . 185^ 

The Panjab made a Lieutenant-Governorship. Sir John Lawrence 
the first Lieutenant - Governor. (First) Indian Code of Civil 
Procedure passed ......... ^859 

The Income Tax imposed. Declaration to rulers of Native States 
granting adoption Sanads. Indian Penal Code enacted . . 1S60 

Severe famine in North-West Provinces through failure of the crops. 
Legislativ'e Councils established (in 1862) in the three Presidencies 
under the Indian Councils Act of 1S61. Creation of the Order 
of the Star of India. The Indian Civil Service Act and Indian 
High Courts Act passed by Parliament. (First) Code of Criminal 
Procedure passed in India . . . . . . . .1861 

The Earl of Elgin, Viceroy and Governor-General . . . 1862-63 

High Court established at Calcutta combining the Supreme and 

Sudder Courts ........ July 1S62 

The Umbeyla campaign on the North-West Frontier . . . 1863 

Sir John (afterwards Lord) Lawrence, Viceroy and Governor-General 1864-69 
Terrific cyclone at Calcutta ...... 5^^ October 1864 

The Bhutan War, 1864-65. The Bhutan Dooars annexed , . . 1865 

The Orissa famine : deaths of a large proportion of the population 

of Orissa .... ...... 1S66 

The Straits Settlements separated from India ..... 1867 

Samarkand taken by the Russians. Sher Ali, Amir of Afghanistan . 1868 

The Amir Sher Ali attended the Ambala Darbar .... 1869 

Visit of the Duke of Edinburgh to India .... 1869-70 

The Earl of Mayo, Viceroy and Governor-General . . • 1869-72 

The Lushai campaign . . . . . . . . 1871-72 

Assassination of Lord Mayo, 8th February, while on a visit to the 
convict settlement in the Andaman Islands. Lord Napier of 
Merchistoun, Governor of Madras, officiated as Viceroy, February 
to May. Indian Contract Act and Indian Evidence Act passed . 1872 

Lord Northbrook, Viceroy and Governor-General . . . 1872-76 

The Russians under General Kauffmann took Khiva . . . 1873 

The East India Company formally dissolved from ist January. 

Famine in Bihar. Government expenditure of 6, 750,000 . . 1874 

Deposition of the Gaekwar of Baroda, after a judicial trial ^ . . 1875 

Visit of Prince of Wales (afterwards King Edward VII.) to 

India ..... 9th November to r3th March 1875-76 

Pacification of Baluchistan ........ 1 876 



clxiv 


REMARKABLE EVENTS 


India 


DATES 

Lord (afterwards Eari) Lytton, Viceroy and Governor-General . 1876-80 

Famine in, S. India. Government expenditure of ;ii'8, 000,000. 
Increase of 5,000,000 deaths. British subscription of half a 
million sterling ........ 1876-7S 

H.M. the Queen Victoria proclaimed Empress of India at Delhi, 1st 

January. Creation of the Order of the Indian Empire . , 1877 

.Sher Ali, Amir of Afghanistan, received a Russian mission, but refused 
to receive a British envoy. Three British columns moved on 
Afghanistan. Capture of Ali Masjid. General (afterwards Earl) 
Roberts stormed the Peiwar Kotal, 2nd December. Flight of Sher 
Ali to Turkestan, and accession of his son, Yakub Khan. Despatch 
of native troops to Malta ........ 1878 

Death of Amir Sher Ali, 21st February. Treaty of Gandamak, 26th 
May. Sir Louis Cavagnari received at Kabul as British repre- 
sentative in July, but murdered 3rd September, General Roberts 
advanced by the Kuram valley, carried the heights of Charasia, 6th 
October, took Sherpur, and entered Kabul, 9th October. Abdica- 
tion of Amir Yakub Khan ........ 1879 

March of General Sir Donald Stewart from Kandahar to Kabul. 

Ayub Khan defeated General Burrows at Maiwand, 27th July, 

March of General Roberts with 10,000 men, 9th to 31st August, 
to the relief of Kandahar, 313 m. in twenty-two days. General 
Roberts completely routed Ayub Khan on ist September. The 
British nominated Abdur Rahman as Amir, lOth August, Tl e 
British forces returned to India . , . . . . 1880 

The Marquis of Ripon, Viceroy and Governor-General . . 1880-84 

Skobeleff defeated the Tekke Turkomans and captured Geok 

Teppe . . - . . . • ■ • - .1881 

Further advance of the Russians. Death of Skobeleff. Lord Ripon 
extended local self-government with some powers of election. 
Abolition of customs duties on all articles except intoxicants and 
arms. A Contingent of the native army sent to Egypt . , . 1882 

A Bill proposing to “invest native magistrates in the interior with 
powers over European British subjects ” gave rise to bitter race 
feelings. Ompromise adopted by which Europeans are entitled 
to a jury of which at least one-half are to be of their own race . 1883 

Occupation of Merv and Sarakhs by the Russians. Boundary Com- 
mission sent to settle North-West Frontier of Afghanistan . 1884-85 

The Earl (afterwards Marquis) of Dufferin, \'iceroy and Governor- 

General . . . • • • • • . . 1884-88 

Conflict of a Russian force and Afghans at Panjdeh. The Amir 
Abdur Rahman met Lord Dufferin at Rawal Pindi, The Indian 
National Congress commenced its annual meetings. The fort of 

Gwalior restored to Maharaja Scindia jgg^ 

King Thebaw, of Mandalay, having made overtures to France and 
refused to receive a British envoy, was deposed. Annexation 
of Upper Burma, 1st January. Delimitation of the Northern 
boundary of Afghanistan by an Anglo-Russian Commission . 1886 

The Jubilee of H.M. the Queen - Empress celebrated with great 

manifestations of native loyalty .... i6th February 1887 
Formation of Imperial Service Troops in Native States . . . 1888 

Marquis of Lansdowne, Viceroy and Governor- General . 1888-94 

Completion of the Afghan Frontier Railway and Defences. Visit of 
H.R.H. the Duke of Clarence to India. Military expeditions sent 
against hill tribes 1889 



Introd. 


REMARKABLE EVENTS 


clxv 


DATES 

Chin and Lushai expeditions. Cunvention between Great Britain 

and China relating to Sikhim and Tibet , . • . . 1890 

Murder of British officers at Manipur, 24th March. Capture and 
execution of the rebel leaders. Visit of H.I.H. the Cesarevitch 
(until 1917 the Czar of Russia) to India . . . . .1891 

The Indian Councils Act introduced an elective element into the 


Supreme and Provincial Legislative Councils ; their constitution and 
procedure changed. Lord HerschelPs Indian Currency Committee 1892 
The Mints closed to the free coinage of silver. The value of the rupee 
fixed, for Government purposes, at is. 4d. Some compensation 
given to officials on account of the depreciation of the rupee . . 1893 

Abolition of the Presidential Army commands, by an Act of 1893, 
came into force on ist April. Visit of Sardar Nasrullah Khan, 
son of the Amir, to England. Final delimitation of the Pamir 
Boundary. Chitral campaign. Storming of the Malakand Pass 
and relief of the British force in Chitral. Ke-imposition of import 
duties on cotton goods (27th December 1894) .... 1895 

Plague broke out first at Bombay. The political boundaries of 
Afghanistan partly laid down ... ... 1896 

Lord Welby’s Royal Commission of Enquiry into Indian Expenditure 1896-97 
Burma created a Lieutenant - Governorship. Legi^IaUve Councils 
created in the Panjab and Burma. Severe earthquake, I2th June, in 
Bengal and xAssam ........ 1S97 

Plague and famine. British subscription of more than half a million 
sterling. Rising of tribes in 1897 on the North-West Frontier. 

Punitive expeditions, the principal one against the Afridis in Tirah, 
lasting till the spring of 1S98. Sir H. H. Fowler’s Indian Currency 
Commission .......... 1898 


Lord (afterwards Earl) Curzon of Kedleston, Viceroy and Governor- 

General ........ 1899-1904, 1904-5 

t amine in the Central Provinces and the Panjab, and in the N. parts 
of Bombay. Indian troops sent to Pekin under General Sir 
A. Gaselee .......... 1900 

Deep regret in India at the death of H.M. the Queen-Empress 
Victoria. Letter of King Edward VII. , dated 26th January, to his 
Indian subjects. Death of Amir Abdur Rahman, 3rd October, and 
succession of his son, Amir Habibullah Khan. F^ormation of the 
new Province of the North-West Frontier. Blockade of the Mahsud 
Waziris ........... 190G 

The old Provinces of the North-West Provinces renamed the United 
Provinces of Agra and Oudh. Recovery of the Indian Finances. 

Lord Kitchener, Commander-in-Chief in India, Tariff Act passed 
to countervail bounties on sugar ....... 1902 

The Indian Police Commission ...... 1902-03 

Coronation Darbar of PI.M. King- Emperor Edward VII., held 
at Delhi on ist January by Lord Curzon, in the presence of T, R.H. 
the Duke and Duchess of Connaught. The Berars attached to the 
Central Provinces. Visit of Lord Curzon to the Persian Gulf, 

Wide spread of the plague . ....... 1903 

Viceroyalty of Lord Curzon extended by two years. Expeditionary 
force sent to Lhasa. Convention between Great Britain and Tibet, 
sigried at Lhasa, 7th September. Mission to Kabul. Indian 
Universities Act ......... 1904 

Constitution of the Province of Eastern Bengal and Assam, 

1 6th October. Change of status of the military member of 



clxvi 


REMARKABLE EVENTS 


India 


DATES 

the Viceroy’s Council. Creation of Army and Military Supply 
Departments. Railway Board established in India. Visit of King 
George V. and (^ueen Mary, as Prince and Princess of Wales, to 
India, 9th November to 19th March 1906. Severe plague con- 
tinued. Resignation of Lord Curzon, i8th November . . 1905 

The Earl of Minto, Viceroy and Governor-General, i7tb November 1905-12 
Convention between Great Britain and China, 27th April. Resigna- 
tion of the Lieutenant-Governor of Eastern Bengal and Assam, 19th 
August. Visit of Amir Habibullah Khan to India . . . 1906 

Unrest in Bengal marked by murderous outrages. Act for Prevention 
of Seditious Meetings. Famine in the United Provinces. Con- 
tinuance of plague. Appointment of Lord Kitchener as Com- 
raander-in- Chief extended for two years. Convention between Great 
Britain and Russia .......... 1907 

The Explosive Substances Act, The Newspapers (incitement to 
offences) Act, Indian Criminal Law Amendment Act (for more 
speedy trial of certain offences), passed in India .... 1908 

Post of military member of the Viceroy’s Council abolished. Sir 
O’ Moore Creagh appointed Comraander-in-Chief in India. Lord 
Morley’s Indian Councils Act, 1909, passed by Parliament. The 
enlarged Legislative Councils, of the Governor - General, and 
Provincial, under the Indian Councils Act, 1909, established 1909-10. 
Executive Council formed for Bengal ...... 1909 

Lord Hardinge of Penshurst, Viceroy and Governor- General, 23rd 
Nov. The Indian Press Act (to provide for the better control of 
the Press) ........... 1910 

The Indian Factories Act and the Prevention of Seditious Meetings 
Act passed. The Coronation Darbar held at Delhi by His 
Majesty George V. — The King- Emperor’s Proclamation. — An- 
nouncement of the transfer of the capital of India from Calcutta to 
Delhi, of the creation of a Governorship for the Presidency of 
Bengal, of a Lieutenant-Governorship for Bihar, Chola Nagpur, 
and Orissa, of a Chief Commissionership for Assam, 12th December 1911 
Visit of Their Majesties the King -Emperor George V. and Queen- 

Empress Mary to India . . 2nd December 1911 to loth January 1912 

Lord Carmichael, Governor of Bengal. Executive Council formed for 
Bihar and Orissa. Lord Hardinge severely wounded by a bomb 
on the occasion of his ceremonial entry into Delhi as the new 
capital of India, 23rd December ....... 1912 

Lord Pentiand, Governor of Madras . . .... 1912 

The Royal Commission to enquire into the Indian Public Services 
(Lord Islington, Chairman) commenced their sittings in India. 

Lord Willingdon appointed Governor of Bombay. Funds 
collected in India for the Hindu University at Benares. A 
Royal Commission appointed (under Mr Austen Chamberlain) on 
Indian Currency and Finance published an interim report. 
Numerous Indian Credit Banks failed and were wound up. Con- 
siderable Indian demands for redress of grievances in South Africa. 

Sir Benjamin Robertson, Chief Commissioner of the Central 
Provinces, sent to represent the Government of India on the enquiry 
in South Africa . 1913 

The new Alexandra Dock opened at Bt^mbay. Lord Crewe’s Council 
of India Bill introduced in the Plouse of Lords, and rejected after 
full debate. Sir Beauchamp Duff appointed Commander-in-Chief 
in India. On the outbreak of the European War on 4th August, 



Introd. 


REMARKABLE EVENTS 


cKvii 


DATEb 

the Viceroy assured England of full support and loyalty from India. 
Universal outburst of loyalty ; valuable assistance rendered by 
Princes and peoples of India. The German cruiser, Emden^ sank 
British merchant ships in Bay of Bengal, and bombarded Madras, 
until caught off the Cocos Islands. Indian Expeditionary Forces, 
three complete Divisions (70,000 combatants) of British and Indian 
troops were despatched from India, to take part in the War in 
b ranee, Egypt, East Africa, China and ^Mesopotamia. Territorial 
troops arrived in India from England. The first two V.Cs. con- 
ferred on Indian soldiers. The first All-India Conference of Indian 
Christians held in Calcutta ........ 1914 

During the War, India generally loyal and contented. The Viceroy 
visited the Persian Gulf, and w'ent up to Basra. The House of 
Lords rejected the proposed Executive Council for the United 
Provinces of Agra and Oiidh. The Government in India 
regulated the prices of corn, in the interest of the Indian people, 
by limiting the amount of export, and creating a State monopoly 
of the export. The prolonged trial at Lahore of sixty-one political 
criminals charged with conspiracy to overthrow' British rule in 
India ; twenty-four sentenced to death (many of the sentences 
commuted) ; twenty-seven to transportation for life. All German 
Missionaries in India deported or interned . . . . . 1915 

The Government of India Act, 1915 (consolidating all existing 
Statutes), and the Government of India (Amendment) Act, 1916 
(amending certain enactments) ...... .1915-16 

Lord Chelmsford, Viceroy and Governor-General, in April. Con- 
templated abolition (after a transition period) of the system of 
Indian Indentured Labour announced, Fall of Kut-el-Amara in 
Mesopotamia, 29th April, after 1 43 days’ siege. Death in June, 
between Karachi and Lahore, of a number of territorial soldiers 
recently arrived in India. Sir Charles Monro appointed 
Commander-in-Chief in India. In November the Mohmands raided 
into British territory, but were easily repulsed and scattered ; first 
use of aeroplanes in Indian warfare ...... 1916 

Earl of Ronaldshay, late M.P., Governor of Bengal from March, 

Three representatives of India, Sir James Meston, Sir S. Sinha and 
the Maharaja of Bikanir deputed to England to attend the War and 
other Cabinet Meetings. Visit of the Right Hon. E. S. Montagu, 
Secretary of State for India, to India ...... 19^7 



dxviii 


NATIVK TERMS 


India 


GLOSSARY OF THE PRINCIPAL NATIVE TERMS USED 
IN THIS BOOK.' 


[A. signifies Arabic ; H- Hindustani or Hindi ; K. Kanarese ; Mai- MalayMam ; M. 
Mahrattx; My. Malay; P. Persian; S. Sanskrit; Sin. Sinhalese; Tel. Telugu ; Tur. 
Turkish ; T. Tamil.] ^ 


Amir (Ameer), A. “commander,’’ a title of Princes and nobles, as the Amhs 
^ of Sind, or of Afghanistan. 

Ana (Anna), H. the i6th part of a rupee. 

Anikut, i'. weir, dam {annai kutia). 

Anjuman, P. assemblage, society, institute. 

Aram A, S. and Sin., a pleasure -garden or park. 

Babul, H, a thorny mimosa (the Acacia arabica tree), in N. India named 
the Kikar. 

Bahadur, P. “ brave, “chivalric/’ a title of honour among Muhammadans. 
Bana, Sin. reading of the sacred books in public. 

Band, H. an embankment or dyke — commonly Bund. 

Bandar, P, a port or harbour. 

Banyan-tree, S. the Indian Fig-tree [Fictis Indica, or Ficus Bengalensis^ 
L.) which has aerial roots growing down into the ground from its 
horizontal branches. 

Bag LI, H. a well with steps, galleries, and chambers. 

Barahdari, H. (twelve doors) a mansion. 

Bazar, P. a market or market-place ; a street of shops. 

Begam (Begum), Tur. a lady of rank ; a Queen or Princess. 

Bel, H. a fruit-tree {Aigle marmelos). 

Bhata (Batta), H. additional allowance to soldiers employed on foreign 
duty. 


Bungalow, H. and M. (bangla), a thatched or tiled house of one storey; 
the name usually applied to the houses of the English in India, and to 
the rest-houses for travellers built by Government on the public roads. 
Caste, class ; sect ; corruption of the Portjpguese casta or race. 

Catamaran, T. kattu^ “ to bind,” maram, “a tree,” a log-raft on which the 
natives of Madras paddle through the surf, 

Chabutra, H. a raised platform, usually of stone or brick ; terrace. 

Chadar, H. (Chadar) sheet worn by men and women. 

Chaitya, S. a Budsdhist chapel or church ; primarily a heap or tumulus ; 
also a place of oacrifice or religious worship ; any building of the nature 
of a religious m nument (Fergusson, Ind. Arch.). 

Chakra, S. a wheel ; the wheel of the law. 

Chaukidar (Chokidar), H. a watchman, peon, village watchman 
Chadri, H. a fly- whisk ; a mark of rank. 

Chawadi, Tel. a native rest-house for travellers, English corruotiou 
Chou/try. ^ 

Chhatri, H. (Chhattar) umbrella ; insignia of rank ; a monumental structure 
or pavilion erected in honour of a person of rank. 

Chital, H. the spotted deer [A As maculatu,), gregarious, and common in 
many parts of India. 


1 Terms relating to religious matters, festivals 
tion, are generally not included here. 


, etc., vhicb are explained in the Introduc- 



Introd. NATIVE terms clxix 

ChL'Nam, T. an English corruption of H. tJiund^ lime, a plaster or mortar 
sometimes made of shells of a remarkable whiteness and brilliance. 

Chur, an alluvial formation, as an island in, or on the bank of, a river. 

Compound, an enclosure, probably a corruption of the Malay word Kampong. 

Cro&e (Karor), H lOO lakhs or lo millions. 

Dagopa, Dagoba, S. a Sinhalese word from Pali dkatugabbka and S. 
dhatugarbha^xd)dz-x^c^^\. 2 ic\t ; strictly applicable to the dome of the 
stupa {q,v.) (Fergusson). 

Dak, II. Post. Dak-Bungalow {or Musafari Bungalow), a rest-house for 
travellers. 

Dakghari, H. stage-coach, drawn b}' ponies, for one or two travellers. 

DarbAr (Durbar), P. a royal court; an audience or levee ; a hall. 

Dargah, place of burial of a Muhammadan saint. 

Darwaza, P. gateway, door. 

Deodar, the Cedrus deodara of the Himalaya : from deva-daru^ the “wood 
of the gods.’^ 

Dharmsala, H. and M. {dhamia, “ justice,” “ piety,” and sa/d, “a hall”), a 
place of accommodation for travellers and pilgrims. 

1 >harn,a, S to sit at a door until payment is extorted (an offence under the 
Penal Code). 

Dholi, H. Dhooli (properly doU), a swinging cot or litter suspended from a 
pole carried by bearers. 

Diwan, P. “a royal court/’ “a minister,” especially the chief financial 
minister. 

Diwan-i-Am, Diwan-i-Khas, P. hail of public, private, audience. 

Doab, the country betw'een two risers. 

Dwarpal, H. a door-keeper, commonly sculptured at sides of doors in 
Buddhist shrines and Hindu temples. 

f akIr, a. a religious Muhammadan who has taken a vow of poverty ; a poor 
man ; also inaccurately applied to Hindu devotees and ascetics. 

Barman, P. a royal order or grant. 

Caddi, H. seat ; royal seat ; throne of a Hindu Prince. 

Gala, Sin. (giri, S.), hill, rock. 

Gama, Sin. (grama, S.), village. 

Gana, H. Buddhist celestial dwarf. 

Garuda, a fabulous creature, half man, half eagle. 

Ghara, H, an earthen water-pot or jar. 

Ghat (Ghaut), S. gkatta, “a landing-place,” “steps on a river-side*’ ; a 
mountain pass ; any narrow passage. 

Girja (Port), church ; from Portug. igreja. 

Gopuram, H. the gate-pyramid of a pagoda ; the principal feature of the 
quadrangular enclosure of a temple. 

Gumbaz, P, a cupola ; a dome. 

Gusain, H. Hindu monk or devotee. 

IIammal, a. a bearer of a palki ; in Bombay, an orderly or house-bearer. 
Hammam, P. bath. 

Harjm (Harara), P. a sanctuary : ladies’ apartments. 

Hauz, A. cistern, tank, reservoir, 

Havildar, H. “one holding an office of trust”; an officer in native 
regiments corresponding to a sergeant. 

Hukka (Hooka), A. a native pipe. 

lIuz(iR^ A. the royal presence ; a respectful term applied to high officials. 

Ii>Gah, P. the open enclosure where the Id prayers are offered. 

Imambara, P. a building to which the Shias carry the tadas or biers in the 
vtitkarram ^ often the tomb of the founder. 

Ghwar or IsWAR, S. God, Lord. 



India 


Clxx NATIVE TERMS 

Jagir, P. a tenure by which the public revenues of an estate or district were 
granted to an individual (jagirdar), with powers to collect them, and 
formerly to administer the general affairs of the estate. 

Jam’adar, a. a native officer next to a Subadar, and corresponding to 
lieutenant. 

Jhatka, II. covered pony cart in S. India. 

Jhil, H. pool, lake, swamp. 

JOGi, S. a Hindu devotee, as Fakir is a Muhammadan. 

JOHAR (Jauhar), H. sacrifice or immolation practised by Rajputs when about 
to be captured. Scholars will recall the occurrence of such sacrifices at 
Saguntum and Truman tia. 

Kabr, a. a tomb. 

Kacheri, H., or Kachahri, commonly Cutcherry, a court or office for 
public business. 

Kalima, a. (in full, Kalimal-ubshahadat, the word of testimony) the 
Muhammadan profession of faith (Introduction, p. Iviii). 

Kanda, Sin. mountain. 

Kankar, H. nodular limestone, with which roads in N. India are metalled. 

Karbala, A. designation of cemetery or place where iazias are buried, 
derived from the city on the Euphrates where the Imam Ali is buried. 

Khan, A. a Muhammadan title of respectability answering to “Esquire.” 

Khans ama, P. literally “master of the household gear ” = butler, or house- 
steward. In Anglo-Indian households in Upper India it is the title of 
the chief table- servant and provider, always a Muhammadan. In N. 
India and Kashmir, it means the cook. In the Madras Presidency and 
S. India, the title Khansama is not used; “butler” is general, and 
he is seldom a Muhammadan. 

Khidmatgar, a., P., H. the “service-doer,” always applied to a Muham- 
madan table-servant. 

Kibla, a. the place to which Muhammadans look when praying, in the 
direction of the temple of Mecca. 

Kila, Kiladar, P. fort, commandant of fort. 

Kimkhwab (Kincob), P., H. gold brocade. 

Kothi, H. residence, house, mansion. 

Kotwal, Kotwali, P. police officer, police station. 

Kulam, T. tank. 

Kuli (Cooly), T. and Tur. a day labourer; porter at railway stations and 
elsewhere. 

Kund, S. a pit, hollow, pool, well, small tank. 

Lakh (Lac), S. the number 100,000. By customary use “a lakh ’’means 
“a lakh of rupees.'^'^ 

Lat, H. a stone monolithic ^ stamhha^ common to all styles of 

Indian architecture. 

Lingam, S. symbol of Siva as the God of reproduction. 

Maidan, P. plain, open space, field of battle. 

Makbara, (P. from Kabr) grave of a saint. 

Mamlatdar, subordinate revenue collector in Bi>mbay, 

Man (Maund), H. a weight, varying in different parts" of India. In Bombay 
it is 25 lb. ; in Bengal, since 1883, 82 lb. 

Mandapam, S. an open paHlion or porch in front of a temple ; also 
Mantapam. 

Masjid, a. mosque (place of prostration, sijda). Jami ?*Iasjid congrega- 
tional mosque. One prayer in a Jami Masjid is equivalent to 5cx) 
elsewhere, and one at Mecca to 100,000 elsewhere. 

MasnaI), P. cushion, throne of a Vluhammadan Prince. 

Masula, T. a boat sewed together, used for crossing the surf at Madras. 



Introd. 


NATIVE TERMS 


clxxi 


Math, H. Hindu monastery, of which a Mahant is Abbot. 

Mlla, H. a fair. 

Mihrab, a. an arch ; the recess in the wall of a mosque on the side nearest 
Mecca, to which Muhammadans turn at prayer — usually termed Kibla 
in India. 

Mimijar, P. the pulpit in a mosque ; the preacher stands on the middle step 
of the three while delivering his sermon (Khutba). 

Mon'^OON, a. a corruption of the A. mausam^ “a season”; applied now 
to the periodical rains in India during the S.W. Monsoon, from June to 
>)eptember. 

Mufassal (often WTitten Mofussil), separate, detailed, particular : commonly 
meaning “the interior of the country,^’ as distinguished from the towns. 

Munshi (Moonshi), A. a writer ; a secretary ; a teacher of languages. 

Naik, S. an officer in native armies corresponding to a corporal; an ancient title. 

Nandi, S. bull ; vehicle of Siva, often carved in kneeling attitude facing 
Saivite temples. 

Naubat khan a, Nakkar khan a, a. the chamber over a gateway, where 
a band is stationed. 

N iucH (Nach), S. a dance ; an exhibition of dancing-girls. 

Naw'Ab, a. this word means lit. “deputies,*' being the plural of nd/b, “a 
deputy.” It is now a title of Governors and other high officials. 

Ni2\m, a, an arranger ; an administrator ; a title of the Prince whose capital 
is Hyderabad, in the Deccan. 

Nulla, H. properly Nala, “water-course,” or “depression.’* 

Pau.oiia, P. an Anglican corruption of the P. word but-kada^ “an idol 
temple” in S. India; also a coin formerly in use — 3^ rupees, called by 
the natives hihi^ but deriving the former name from its showing a temple 
on one face. 

P VLAN keen (Pai.asouin), H. an Anglican corruption of the word falkl^ a 
means of conveyance, of the shape of a long box w ith sliding sides, in 
vvhich persons are carried on men‘s shoulders ; but little in use nowadays. 

Pai.egar (Pol);gar), T. Tel. a shareholder ; a landed proprietor. A title of 
persons in the Madras Presidency who correspond to zamindars in other 
parts of India. 

Pan, S. the leaf of the betel creeper. Pan-supari is areca nut rolled in betel 
leaf with a little shell-lime for chewing. 

Pansala, Sin. a leaf-hut ; monk's dwelling. 

Parda, P., H. a curtain, especially one that screens women ; pai-danashin — 
one sitting behind a curtain — f.^., secluded. 

Patel, S. the headman of a village, invested with some magisterial and 
revenue functions. 

Peepul (Pipal) S., H. one of the great fig-trees of India [Ficus religiosa). 

Peons, from the Portuguese peao^ Spanish peon, “footman.” ^ 

Peshwa, P. the Brahman Prime Ministers of the Rajas of Satara, who after- 
W’ards became the supreme Chiefs of the Mahratta nation. 

PuiNSj T. the Toda name for the stone circles on the Nilgiri Hills. 

PiC-E, II. a corruption of the word paisa, a copper coin, of which 64 go to a 
rupee, and 4 to the an«a, and which itself contains 3 pie. 

Pilimage, Sin. image-house. 

Pin Dari, M. (Pendhara), organised bodies of raiders and robbers. 

PinJRApol, H, [pinjra, a cage), an animal hospital, mostly kept up by the 
Jains ; animal infirmary. 

y^KAMA, Sin. merit-act; entertainment, 

PiUj P. old ; a Muhammadan saint. 

Piriven, Sin. series of monks' cells. 

Prakara, a great corridor. 



cixxii 


NATIVE TERMS 


India 


PuRA, S. and Sin. {Puram, T. ), a city. 

Raja, S. a Hindu King or Prince. 

Rani, S. the wife of a Raja ; a Queen or Princess. 

Rath, S. a chariot formerly, now a superior class of cart. 

Raths or Rathas, the name of certain rock-cut monolithic Dravidian 
temples at Mamallapuram, near Madras. 

Risaldar, a. a native captain of a troop of horse. 

Roza (Rauza), A. a tomb in an endlosure, originally the garden at Medina 
adjoining the chamber (hujra) in which Muhammad was buried. 

Ryot, A. an Anglican corruption of the A. word r^aiyai^ a subject, a peasant. 
Sadr, A. (Sadar, Sudder), top, chief, principal. 

Sadr’ Adalat, A. formerly the Supreme Court of Justice in India. 

Sahib, A. lord ; a title applied to an English gentleman in India. 

Saiyad, a. a descendant from the family of Muhammad. 

Samadh, H. cenotaph of a Hindu ; also self-immolation. 

Sandal, A. and S. the fragrant wood of the Santalum alburn^ 1.. 

Sangam, S. junction of two or more rivers — commonly a sacred place of 
pilgrimage. 

Sangharama, a group of apartments for a community of monks, a monastery. 
Sarai, P. a rest-house for travellers ; a caravanserai. 

Sarhi, H; (commonly Sari), a sheet worn by Hindu w^omen. 

Sati (Suttee), S. a chaste wife, especially one burnt with h%r deceased 
husband ; the burning of such a wife. 

Shah, P. a King ; a title usually applied to the King of Persia 
Shaikh, A. old, respected ; a class or rank of Muhammadans. 

Shankh, S. a conch shell, large specimens of which are blown as horns by 
the Hindus during religious ceremonies. 

Shikar; Shikari, P. game, shooting; native gamekeeper. 

Shola, T. a patch of jungle ; a wooded dell. 

Sikra, S- (Sikhara) spire or finial of Hindu temple; pyramidal; manj- 
storeyed ; always surmounting the cell of the image. 

Sinhasax, S. a lion-seat {singh^ lion), Hindu throne. 

SlPAHi, H. (Sepoy), a native soldier, one of a sipdh or army. 

Stambha = LaT {q.v.). 

Stupa (or Tope), a relic-shrine ; a monument containing relics ; or a tower 
commemorative of an event or sacred spot (Fergusson). 

SuBAD.AR, A. Governor of a Province ; a native infantry officer corresponding 
to a captain. 

Tahsil, P. a division of a Zilla, equivalent to Taluk. 

Tahsildar, P. a native sub-collector of revenue, who may also be a magistrate. 
Taikhana (P. fak-khanay lower house), underground room for retreat in 
summer, P. sarddb. 

Taj, P. a crown. 

Tale, Sin. a tank. 

T’aluk, a. or more properly ta'aHuka^ a tract, or division of a district. 

Tank, a reservoir, an artificial pond or lake, made by excavation* or by 
damming (a word of both Indian and European urigiri). 

Tappal, H. in Bombay the post ; delivery of letters ; a relay of horses. 

Tara, S. ; Tirtha, S. , Tota, S. ; Tukei, T. ; a crossing; a ford; shore 
or harbour ; landing-place. 

Tatti, M. matting ; a mat-shade. 

Teppa Kulam {Soittk Jndzd), a tank surrounded by steps with usually a 
temple in the centre. 

Thana, a police-station ; Thanadak, the officer in charge of it. 

Tiffin, luncheon, a word of hybrid and uncertain origin. 

Tirth, S. place of Hindu pilgrimage, see Tara. 



In trod. 


LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS 


clxxiii 


1 

i 

i 


f 


Tirthankar, S. Jain saint. 

Tonga, H. a light, small, and low-seated two-wheeled vehicle drawn by 
ponies, often used to the hill-stations and in them. 

Tota, see Tara. 

Trimurti, the three-faced bust of Siva in the characters of the Hindu Trinity. 

Tripulia, H. a gateway, or approach with three arches. 

Tughra, a. an ornamental character of writing, used for roval signatures 
and titles. , 

Tulsi, S. the Ocimtim sanctum^ the sacred Basil plant, venerated by the Hindus. 

TrREi, see Tara 

Vahana, S. a sacred vehicle of a Hindu god. 

\ IHara, S. a Buddhist monastery, or an apartment or hall in a monastery or 
cave : in Ceylon, a Buddhist temple ; a meeting-hall of monks : later 
temples, and resembling churches (Fergusson). 

Vila, Sin. (Vilei, T.), a pond. 

Vim ana, S. the principal part, the actual temple itself ; has a pyramidal roof, 
and contains the cell for the image or emblem of the god. 

W.APi or Vapi, S. and Pali, a tank. 

Wazir, a. a prime minister. 

Wewa, Sin. a tank. 

Zamindar, P. a landed proprietor, a landlord. 

Banana, P. women’s quarters — commonly Zenana. 

^iarat, a. pilgrimage, and hence a burial-place, a place of Muhammadan 
pilgrimage. 

/iLA (Zilla), A. a portion, division, or district; hence, the area or tract 
constituting the jurisdiction of the District Officer — a Magistrate 
and Collector, or a Deputy Commissioner. 


NOTE. 


The following Abbreviations are used in this Book. 


^ JYear of Hijra (the 

\ Hegira), 

Annas. 

ly.lS IV /British India Steam 

\ Navigation Co. 

Cants Cantonments. 

C. M S /Church Missionary 

\ Society. 

D. B /Bl^k Bungalow, a rest- 

\ house for travellers. 

^ East. 

Company Y. 2 iSt India Company. 

Feet. 

C. T ,Road... Grand Trunk Road. 

Inch. 

fn^^yjunc — Junction. 

.... Mile. 

.... North. 

... Native Infantry. 

.... Page. 


>?i. 

A... 


A Jb 0. / Petiitisular and Oriental 

\ Steam Navigation Co. 


pop Population. 

R Refreshment Room. 

R.C Roman Catholic. 

R.H. Rest-house. 

Rs Rupees. 

5'. South. 

L\P. United Provinces. 

W. West. 

W. J. Canal Western Jumna Canal. 
yds Yards. 

{ Bombay, Baroda, and 
Central India 
Kailw^ay. 

n 7,7 ijrr r> f Bengal and North- 
B.N.W.R.i^ Western Railway. 

E.B.R Eastern Bengal Railway. 

EJ.R East Indian Railway. 

T D n r Great Indian Peninsular 

Railway. 

0 R R and Rohilkhand 


■ ' \ Railway. 

S.I.R South Indian Railway. 

, ^ This sign in the text appended to a name indicates that further informa- 
tion relating to the subject is to be found in the Index and Directory at 
end. 



clxxiv 


COMPARATIVE TABLE OF STEAMSHIP SERVICES TO I^^r>IA 


Comparative Table of Steamship Services to India. 

{See footnote, p cKxv ) 


Line and Date of Sailings. 

1 

Tonnage j 
Of 

Steamers. 1 


Fares. 

Extra Charges, etc. 

oi 

Voyage 

1st 

Class 

- 

2nd 

Class. 

To Bombay and Karachi. ! 

i 

dayi'. 




P. & 0.— ! 

1 





Prom London every Friday. 

8—13,000 

21 

£48—00 

£38—44 

Passengers proceed b\ 

Prom Marseilles do. 


U 

£44— -.6 

£36 — 42 

B.I S.X. steamer froij 

From Brindisi, Sunday night. 


u\ 

£06 


Bombay to Karachi. 

From Loudon m't Brindisi, Fri- 


14 

£65, 10/5 



day eveningCP. &0. Bxpres.s). 






B.l.S.N, Co — 






Prom London, alternate Satui - 

7— 9,0U<i 

23 

£4f5 

£34 


days. (urda>s. 






From Marseilles, alternate Sat- 


17 

£44 

£32 


Anchor Line, from Liverpool fort- 

5—6,700 

22 

£40 



nightly. 






Kllerman's City and Hall Line®, 

€-9,000 

23 

£40 

£30 

Usual stay at Bombay 

from Liverpool twice monthly. 





6 days. 

Sodeta NatioTUile di Servizi Mdrx- 

4,500 

16-17 

£50, lC/3 

£39, 4/3 

3rd class, £19, 2/i. 

timif from Genoa every 28 days 






To Calcutta. 




Inierm 

ediate. 

P. & 0 . — Every second Saturday 


32 

£46- 50 

£36—39 


from London. 






B.LS.N. Co.— 






From London, alternate Satur- 

7— 9, ©00 

34 

£50 

£39 


days. turdays. 






From Marseilles, alternate Sat- 


27 

£48 

£37 


EUerman's City Line from Liver- 


27-30 

£40 

1 £30 ! 


pool, about 3 times each month. , 






Messageries Maritimes, from Mar- 





\ 

seilles — ! 






To Calcutta, transhipment at 


23 ^ 



j 1 

Colombo, every 2S days. 

4—7,000 




j 1 

To Pondicherry, transhipment 


20 \ 

£83 

£51, 16/ 

1 3rd class, £29, 12,’. 1 

at Colombo, every 28 days. 





1 J 

To Madras, by rail from Pondi- 


21 ) 




cherry, every 28 days. 





j j 

To Madras. 





1 

B.LS.N. Co.— 






From London, alternate Satur- 

7—9,000 

31 

£46 

£36 


days. [urdays. 





1 

Prom Marseilles, alternate Sat- 


24 

£4-1 

£44 

1 

To Colombo. 



1 



Orient Line— [Friday. 



1 



From London, every second 

8—13,000 

22 

! £42- 60 

£34—44 i 


From Toulon, every second 


16 

£40—56 

£32—42 


Thursday, vta Naples and 





i 

Taranto. 





1 

P. £0— [Friday. 





1 ' 

From London, every second 


25 

[£46,50, 

£38 — 44 1 

1 

From Marseilles, every second 



J ou 
£44,48,1 

£36 — 42 j 

^ Through rates to j 

Friday. 

1 

1 

1 

1 56 1 


i Southern India. | 



•JntrwL CO-MPARATIVE TABLE OF STEAMSHIP SERVICES TO INDIA clxxv 

5 Comparative Table of Steamship Services to continued. 



Tonnage 

of 

Length 1 

Fares. 

j 

Line and Bate of Sailings. 

of ! 

1st 

Class. 

2nd 

Class. 

Extra Charges, etc. ! 

Steamers. 

Voyage, j 

1 

_l 

To Colombo — continued. 
fU S.X. ('0.— 


1 

days. 

1 




From London, alternate Satur- 

7-9,000 


£42 

£34 

1 

days. [urdays. 

Fioin Sfarseilles, alternate Sat- 


20 1 

£40 

£32 

i 

j 

B%V’>y Line — 






From Liverpool, alternate 

0,760 to 

25 ' 

£42 


One class only. 

1 Thursdays [days 

1 From Marseilles, alternate Fri- 

S.dOO 

i 

IT \ 

£40 



} Messagenes Jfari times— Every 14 

6—7,000 

16 

£75, 8/ 

£50 

3rd class, £29, 4/. ■ 

i days from Marseilles. j 

i steamer i 
13,000 



1 

i 


I To Rangoon. 




1 

i Bihhy Line — 

1 

' 


1 

I 

i From Liverpool, alternate 


30 ' 

£50 



Thursdays [days 

1 From Marseilles, alternate Fri- 

i 

22 ; 

£45 

I 

j i 

, Henderson Line, from Livcr- 

1 4—6,000 ' 

32 i£37, 10/ 

( 1 


} pool, alternate Thursdays. 

i 

1 


i 

1 i 

i 


The passage rates shown above have been compiled afresh (October 1017). The frequency of the 
various services is at the moment much interrupted, owing to the eniploynient of steamers by the 
Ministry of Shipping. Such change* of fares as are indicated here are likely to be maintained, 
with one or two exceptions j i.e., the AlesbCigcTif'^ jUdTiHfues, which has increased its rates by 
50 per cent, pro Uw. 




I.— BOMBAY AND THE ENVIRONS ♦ 


\_For Directory^ including list of Hotels^ etc., see Index.’} 

CONTENTS 


Alfred Sailors’ Home , 

Arab Stables 

Alt Museum, Piince of Wales 
Castle and Arsenal 

Cemeteries — 

Colaba Cemetery 
European Cemetery, Sewri 
Gir^aon Cemeteries . 

Hindu Cremation Ground 
Chamber of Commerce 
Churches- 


All Saints’, Malabar Hill 


20 

Cathedral .... 


9 

Christ Church, Bi'cuila . 


18 

Free Church of Scotland . 


14 

Roman Catholic Cathedral 


17 

St Andrew’s (Scotch Presbyterian) . 

TI 

St John’s, Colaba 


IT 

St Nicholas’ 


16 

Custom House 


10 

defences . , - . 


6 

Docks — 



P. & 0 


1^7 

Prince’s .... 


16 

Victoria .... 


16 

Merewether 


16 

Sassoon Graving Dock . 


II 

Dockyard , , . , 


10 


Educational Institutions — 
Alexandra School for Girls 
Anjuman-i' Islam School . 
Cathedral High School for Boy' 
hlphinstone College 
Elohinstone High School 
'School of Art . 

St Xavier’s College 
f J'^toria Institute 
ilson College 
Excursions — 
hassein 

Caves of Kanheri 
Elephanta 
jogeswar Cave 
Montpezir Caves 
Thai and Bore Ghats 
f ansa Reservoir 
\ ehar and Tulsi Lake 


W 

19 

9 


Fountains — 

Frere ..... 

I Ruttonjee Mooljee , 

Wellington , . . ^ 

General description of Bombay , 
Geographical Position 
Government House, iSlalabar Point 
„ Parel 

Harbour 

Industrial Arts and Manufactures 
Institutions (Charitable), Hospital' 
etc. — 

Allbless Obstetric Hospital 
Empress Victoria Memorial Blind 
bchool ..... 
European General Hospital 
Gokaldas Tejpal Hospital 
Grant Medical College 
Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy Hospital 
King Edward Memorial Hospital 
Motlabai Obstetric Hospital . 

Pars! Almshouse 
Parsi Hospital, Cumballa 
Pestonji Kama Hospital for Women 
and Children 
Pmjrapol . 

Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy's Parsi 
Benev'olent Institution. 

The L). M. Petit Hospital 
Institutions (Literary and Scientific) — 
Asiatic Society 


14 , 

Aiechanics’ or Sassoon Institute 


13 

14 1 

Royal Institute of Science 


12 

13 1 

Jaini Masjid .... 


17 

12 

Landing 


6 

I ^ , 

Lighthouse, Prong 


12 

D 

,, CoIaVja . 

Markets — * 


12 

18 

Cotton Market, Colaba . 


II 

19 , 

Crawford 


15 


Nal „ . . . . 


17 

23 

Missions . . 


2I 

26 ' 

Municipal Buildings . 

Museums — 


13 

26 

Prince of Wales 


12 

27 

Victoria and Albert . 


18 

30 

Native Quarter .... 


17 

29 

Observatory at Colaba 


II 

29 

A 

Princess Street .... 


16 


13 

14 

15 
iS 
12 
18 
21 
^9 

15 

17 



2 ROUTE I. 

BOMBAY 

AND THE ENVIRONS. 


India 

Public Offices — 

PAGE 

1 Sir R. Temple . 


PAGE 

8 

Courts of J ustice 

8 

1 Sir Dinshavv Petit . 


• 13 

Mint 

. 10 

j Lord Cornwallis 


. 9 

Port Trust 

. 10 

i Marquis Wellesley . 


♦ 9 

Post Office . . . 

S 

! Mountstuart Elphinstone 


. 10 

Presidential Secretariat . 

7 

! Lord Elphinstone . 

1 Sir Bartle Frere 


. 10 

Public Works’ Secretariat 

8 


. 10 

Telegraph Office 

8 

! Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy 


. 10 

Town Hall .... 

9 

j Mr David Sassoon . 


. 13 

University Hall . . . . 7 

U niversity Library and Clock T ower 8 

1 Suburbs — 

1 Breach Cand5' . 


19 

7 

• . *9 

17 
19 

. 21 

Reclamations — 

Elphinstone, Sewri . 

. 16 

' Byculla .... 

Malabar Hill . 


Colaba ..... 
Railway Stations — 

. 12 

Mazagon .... 
Pare! .... 


B.B. & C. I., Colaba 

Church Gate 

11, 162 

9 

1 Tata Hydro-Electric Scheme 


G.I.P.R., Victoria . 

Statues — 

13 

[ Temples — 
j Mombadevi 


17 

Queen Victoria 

9 

' Walkeswar 


19 

Prince Albert .... 

r8 

i Mahalakhshmi . 


20 

King Edward (1875) 

12 

' Tow’ers of Silence 


. 20 

King Cieorge V. 

. n 

Victoria Gardens 


. rS 

Lord Reay .... 

8 

Other Sights in Bombay 


22 


History. — There is little doubt was then supposed to be a corrup- 

that the W. coast of India had tion of Bon Bahia or Fair Bay. 

trade relations with the Assyrian, Its true derivation ia unccrUtin : 

Persian, and Roman empires ; but possibly from Maha Ammanai, or 

the direct connection of modern “ great mother,*’ a tutelary deity 

Europe with it dates only from of the island ; or perhaps from 

1498, when Vasco da Gama sailed “ Maha-amba- ai,” Amba being a 

round the Cape of Good Hope to name of the goddess Parvati ; or, 

Calicut. Twelve years afterwards again, perhaps from the goddess 

Albuquerque conquered Goa, and Mumba, the patron deity of the 

twenty - four years Jater again pre-Christian Kolis, the earliest in* 

Sultan Bahadur Shah, of Gujarat, habitants of the island. Mumba. 

ceded Bassein, Salsette, and Bom- again, is thought to be another 

bay to the Portuguese. In 1608 form of Amba, another name of 

Captain William Hawkins, of the Bhawani, the consort of Siva. 

Third Separate Voyage, landed at Maha Amba, the great Amba, 

Surat, and in 1611-12 a permanent would, by Kolis and other illiter- 

factory was established there. In ate persons, be pronounced as 

1626 the Portuguese buildings in Mamba or Mumba. In 1674 

Bombay were captured and de- Bombay possessed a castle which 

stroyed by a combined Enghsh and mounted 120 pieces of various 

Dutch force. In 1661 Bombay ordnance, and had a garrison of 

was ceded to England as part of 300 English, 400 Portuguese, and 

the dowry of Catherine of Brag- 500 mihtia. In 1687 the seat of 

anza, but the actual possession of Government was finally * trans- 
it was not transferred till 1665, f erred from Surat to Bombav. 

and on the 23rd September 1668 The first four Governors held 

it was made over to the East India Bombay for the Crown. After 

Company by King Charles II. for the transfer to the East India 

an annual rent of ^10 in gold. Company, for the next nineteen 

One of the terms of the transfer years (1668-87), except for occa- 

was that the English should sup- sional visits and during three 

port the Portuguese in India years (1672-75) of the rule of 

against the Dutch, who were Governor Gerald Aungier, the real 

rapidly supplanting them every- founder of Bombay, the Governors 

where. The name of the place of Bombay spent almost the whole 



ROUTE I. HISTORY ADMINISTRATION 


3 


of their time at Surat, of which | 
factory they were Presidents. | 
During their time Bombay was | 
administered by an officer styled i 
Deputy - Governor ; this title fell ] 
into disuse. In 1708 it became 
the real trading headquarters of 
the Company on the W. coast, 
Surat being no longer a safe place ; 
and before 1720 the towm, which 
had grow'n up outside the castle, 
contained a population of 50,000, 
and was enclosed by a wall. At 
that time it already possessed a 
mint, and a bank was founded 
shortly afterwards, and the port 
flourished considerably from the 
encouragement given to the China 
trade. About the middle of the 
century the town was refortified, 
and soon came into prominence in 
connection with the suppression, in 
1756, of the pirates by Admiral 
Watson and Colonel CUve, a 
position which was ultimately 
confirmed by the results of the 
struggle of the Company with the 
Mahrattas, who, twenty years 
before, had taken Bassein and 
Salsette from the Portuguese. On 
the Portuguese preparing to re- 
cover the latter in 1774, it was 
seized by the Company, and, with 
Broach, was retained after the 
Peace ot 1776 ; ^ and though both 
Were surrendered by the disgrace- 
ful Convention of Wargaon {1779), 
the fulfilment of that was saved 
by the arrival of Colonel Goddard 
With the Bengal troops and, after 
Bassein had been captured in 
1781, the whole of these acquisi- 
tions remained with the British by 
the Treaty of Salbai in 1782. 
From that time the development 
ot the port and city has proceeded 
steadily apace, and it is not neces- 
sary to follow it in detail. The 
City was visited by General 
Wellesley (the Duke of Welling- 
ton) in 1804, and to his instance 
Was due the first road practicable 
for artillery up the Bore Ghat and 

^ h will interest travellers by the Suez Canal 
1^0 be reminded that the first English ship 
bom India to Suez reached that port in 1776. 


to Poona ; and it seems certain 
that it must have been visited by 
Lord Nelson ^ while a midshipman, 
in 1775, as the Seahorse^ on which 
he made his first cruise, was in the 
Persian Gulf and at Bombay in 
that year.“ The framew-ork of 
the present system of administra- 
tion of the Presidency and its 
Capital was shaped by Mount- 
stuart Elphinstone in 1819-27. 
The Chamber of Commerce was 
estabhshed in 1S36, the Bishopric 
in 1837, and the Bombay Bank in 
1840 ; while the University was 
created in 1857, and the Legisla- 
tive Council in 1862, and the 
Mumcipal Authority, formed in 
1872, was converted into a Cor- 
poration in 1888. The Port Trust, 
which now admimsters an income 
of ^^500,000 a -year {£546,000 in 
1910-11), was created in 1873, and 
the Bombay City Improvement 
Trust in 1S98. The mail service 
with England was undertaken by 
the P. & O. Company in 1855 ; the 
G.I.P, Railway had been opened as 
far as Thana two years previously, 
and was extended up the Ghats in 
1863, and in the same year the 
Bombay Baroda Railway, which 
had been opened in i860, was 
extended to Ahmadabad. During 
the American Civil War immense 
wealth was poured into Bombay 
in connection with the export of 
cotton, and over-speculation at 
this period was followed by a 
severe financial collapse. 

It was at this date that the old 
fort walls were at last removed. 
The castle which guarded the 

I In Lord Nelson’i. original letter of 
thanks to the East IntUa Company for the 
gut of XJiO'Ooo voted to him after the Battle 
of the Nile, a letter dated 3rd July 1797, and 
written on board the Fovtiray ant 
he says, “ Having in my youn^^er days 
served in the East Indies, I am no stranger to 
the munificence of the Honble. Company.” 
This letter may be seen in the Library of 
the India Office. 

“ See Mr. J. Douglas's vols. on Bombay 
and W. India. 13S5. The Gazetteer of 
Bombay, by Mr S, M. Edwardes, I.C.S., 
igio, gives the fullest information about the 
island and city. 



ROUTE I. BOMBAY AND THE ENVIRONS 


India 


\ 

centre of its sea front yet stands, 
and Fort George, which stood at 
the Northern end of this front, still 
gives its name to the European 
General Hospital. On the S. side 
the defences followed the line of 
Rampart Row from the Apollo 
Gate to the S.W. corner, and then 
that of Esplanade Road, passing 
the Churclx Gate and Hornby 
Road, to the N.W. corner and the 
Bazar Gate, whence they turned 
E. to Fort George. Outside the 
W. defences was a fine esplanade, 
and in the centre of the fort was 
the green on the site of which 
Elphinstone Circle now stands. 
The four most remarkable develop' 
ments in Bombay during the 
last half of the 19th century have 
been (i) the reclamation of land ; 
{2) the construction of docks ; (3) 
the development of cotton mills 
(the first founded in 1857), of 
which there are now in Bombay 
83, employing i So, 000 hands ; 
and (4) the erection of a splendid 
series of public buildings, many 
due, as will be seen below, to the 
munificent charity of private 
persons. The Corporation con- 
sists of seventy-two members, half 
elected for difierent wards of the 
city, twenty elected by the Cham- 
her of Commerce, the University, 
and the Justices of the Peace, and 
sixteen nominated by Government. 
Inside the Corporation, which is 
a deliberate body, is an executive 
committee, termed the Standing 
Committee, consisting of twelve 
members, eight elected by the Cor- 
poration and four appointed by 
Government. The Municipal Com- 
missioner, appointed by Govern- 
ment, exeDcises supreme execu- 
tive authority in all Municipal 
matters. The annual income of 
the Corporation amounts to 139 
lakhs, derived principally from a 
general tax (52 lakhs), a water tax 
(23 lakhs), conservancy tax (15 
lakhs), and town duties {20 lakhs). 
During the last half century the 
value of the trade of the port has 
increased ttom i6 crores of rupees 


till it reached the record figure of 
202 crores in 1913, but, owing to 
the War, it declined to 140^ crores 
in 1915-16: and the number of 
steamers entering the port de- 
creased from 2549 to 2259, the 
great majority being ships under 
the English flag, besides 43,129 
saiUng vessels. The principal 
j articles of trade are : Imports 
— cotton, piece - goods, metals, 
machinery, silk manufactures, 
railway plant, kerosene oil, sugar, 
and timber; and Exports — coal, 

I cotton, grain, oil, seeds, tea, hides 
raw wool, piece - goods, twist, 
yams, and manganese ore. The 
value of the Foreign trade in 
1915-16 was: Imports (including 
treasure) 5^36,034,000 : Exports 
;£37,475 ,ooo ; while the value 
of the Coasting trade was 
^20,140,000. 

After 1896 the export trade 
received some check from the 
prevalence of plague and the 
consequent imposition of quaran- 
tine against Bombay by all foreign 
ports, but has since recovered. 
The number of deaths from plague 
(1896-1915) has been 186,583. The 
expenditure on account of plague 
1 in Bombay city has been over 
! ;^^540,ooo, in addition to which 
I over 5^4,600,000 have been spent 
j by the City Improvement Trust in 
amehorating conditions favourable 
i to plague. The pest is usually 
I worst in the early hot weather. 

The number of attacks has 
I considerably decreased of late 
; years. 

j According to the census of 191 1, 

I the population of Bombay is 
i 979.445 ■ The population was 
classified in 1911 as below: — 


i 


Hindus .... 
Muhammadans . 

Parsis .... 

Jains 

Europeans and Eurasians 
Native Christians 
Jews 


664,042 

179>346 

50,931 

20,460 

16,082 

41,273 

6,597 


The growth of the population 
has been somewhat as follows : 



ROUTE I. GOVERNORS — CtIMATE 


Latter half of i8th century, | 

150.000 ; early in 19th century, 

200,000 ; 1815, 240,000 ; 1849, 

550.000 ; 1S72, 644,000 ; i88i, 

773,196; 1891, 821,764; 1901, 

776,006 ; 1906, 959,537- 

The City Improvement Trust 
uas created by a special Statute 
in 1898 for the purpose of im- 
proving the sanitation of the city 
and developing new residential 
areas. It consists of fourteen 
members, of whom four are elected 
by the Corporation, one by the 
Chamber of Commerce, one by 
the Port Trust, one by the Mill- 
owners' Association and the re- 
maining seven, including the 
Chairman, being nominated by 
Government. The capital ex- 
pended by the Trust on the 
acquisition and development of 
their estates has now reached 
nearly 4 millions sterling, and 
over 2 millions are yet to be 
spent for the completion of the 
sanctioned programme. The 
estates aggregate about 1525 
acres, including 435 acres fully 
developed as residential areas, of 
which nearly 200 acres have been 
disposed of on building leases for 
49, or 999 years. In 1915-16 the 
Trust's net revenue from their 
e-^tates was 22 lakhs, exclusive of 
ro lakhs contribution received 
Irom the Municipality. The 
year’s profits amounted to 8 
lakhs, after payment of 24 lakhs 
interest and sinking fund charges 
on capital borrowed to date. 

The Empress Victoria Memorial 
has taken the form of an Institu- 
tion and School for the Bhnd 
m the Tardeo quarter. 

The principal Governors of 
Bombay since the early days of 
^ir George Oxenden (1668-1669) 
and Mr Gerald Aungier have been 
^ir John Child (1681-1690), Mr 
William Hornby {1771-1784), Mr 
Jonathan Duncan (1795-1811), the 
Hon. Mountstuart Elphinstone 
(1819-1827), Sir John Malcolm 
^i>S27-i83o), Sir George Russell 
Clerk (1847-1848 and 1860-1862), 


Lord Elphinstone (1853-1860), Sir 
Bartle Frere (1862-1867), and in 
recent times Sir Richard Temple 
(1877-1880), Lord Reay (1885- 
1890), Lorf Harris {1890-1895), 
i and Lord Northcote {1900-1903). 
The late Governor, Sir George 
Sydenham Clarke, R.E., G.C.M.G., 
G.C I.E., created Lord Sydenham, 
retired in March 1913 ; Lord 
Willing don succeeded to the 
Governorship. 


The Island of Bombay is situ- 
ated in lat. 18® 53' 45", long. 72° 
52^ It IS one of a group of twelve 
which were at one time separated 
from the mainland and from one 
another by very narrow channels, 
some of wliich have now been filled 
up, the principal being Bassein, 
Dravi, Salsette, Trombay (in 
which the hill called the Neat's 
Tongue, 1000 ft. high, is a con- 
spicuous mark), Bombay, and 
Elephanta. 

Bombay Island is iij m. long 
from the S. extremity of Colaba 
to Sion Causeway, over which the 
G.I.P. Railway passes to the island 
of Salsette, and from 3 to 4 m. 
broad in that portion which lies 
to the N. of the Esplanade. The 
area is 22,48 sq. m., to which about 
sq. m, wall be added by the 
reclamations now in progress. 
“ In the beauty of its scenery," 
says the Traveller’s Companion, 
” as well as in the commercial 
advantages of its position, Bom- 
bay is unsurpassed by any of the 
cities in the East " 


Climate.- — The average tempera- 
ture of Bombay is 79.2° F. It is 
neither so hot in summer nor so 
cold in winter as many places in 
the interior. The coolest months 
are from November till March. 
The S.W. monsoon begins about 
the second week in June, and the 
rains continue till the end ot 
September. The average rainlall 
is 70.30 in. 


6 


ROUTE I. BOMBAY AND THE ENVIRONS 


India 


Bombay Harbour. — As the 
harbour is approached and en- 
tered the scene is very picturesque. 
To the W. the shore is crowded 
with buildings, some of them, as 
the Colaba Church, the Tower of 
the University, and that of the 
Municipal Buildings, very lofty 
and well proportioned. To the 
N. and E. are numerous islands, 
and on the mainland bills rising 
to an altitude of from looo to 2000 
ft. Pre - eminent amongst these 
is the remarkable hill of Bawa 
Malang, otherwise called Mallan- 
garh, on the top of which is an 
enormous mass of rock with per- 
pendicular sides, crowded with a 
fort, now in ruins. (See p. 461.) 

The main defences of the har- 
bour, remodelled and armed with 
the newest and heaviest guns, 
consist of batteries on the islands 
in the harbour, in addition to 
which there are three large bat- 
teries on the mainland. The 
South Island fort is called the 
Oyster Rock ; that on the Middle 
Ground shoal is in the middle of 
the anchorage ; the third defence 
is on Cross Island, at the N. end 
of the anchorage, the higher part 
of which has been cut down and 
armed with a battery. 

Landing. — Pending completion 
of the Alexandra Dock Passenger 
Traffic Berth and Railway Station, 
passengers are landed at the 
Ballard Pier in launches. The 
heavy luggage is sent to the Cus- 
toms House at the pier, and 
passengers can take only hand 
articles with them in the launch. 
On the completion of the Passenger 
Railway Station mail steamers 
will lie alongside the landing 
wharf, and special trains will con- 
vey passengers up-country direct 
from the steamer. No luggage is 
now examined on board the 
steamer. The hotel authorities 
and various agents send repre- 
sentatives to meet passengers on 
landing, and it will be found most 
convenient to entrust the baggage 


to one of them, furnishing him 
with a detailed list of the boxes. 
Customs forms, to be filled up 
with the contents of large pack- 
ages, and with all articles liable to 
Customs duty, are usually pro- 
vided on board the steamer. 
Recent tariff legislation has 
abolished Customs dues on all 
articles of personal usc,^ so the 
system is now much simpler ; 
the articles which give trouble 
are firearms only. If these have 
not been in India before, or have 
not been in India for a year, a ‘ 
high ad valorem duty is levied on 
them, and they cannot be removed 
from the Custom House until the 
duty is paid, or a certificate is 
given that a full year has not 
elapsed since the owner left India. 
The P. & O. steamers, after landing 
the mail and passengers, proceed 
up the harbour to the docks. 
Special hmited expresses leave 
Bombay for Calcutta {37 hrs.), 
Delhi {24I hrs.), and Madras (26 
hrs.), soon after the arrival of 
the steamer. Places in these trains 
should be secured in London. 
Bombay to Delhi, 957 m. ; ito 
Lahore, 1267 m. ; to Lucknow, 
885 m. 

dravellers who have not been 
in the East before will be struck 
by the picturesqueness of the 
scene on landing in Bombay. 
The quaint native craft at the 
quay ; the crowds of people 
dressed in the most brilliant and 
varied costumes ; the Hindus of 
different castes ; the Muhamma- 
dans, Jews, and Parsis, with a 
sprinkhng from other nationali- 
ties ; the gaily-painted bullock- 
carts ; and other sights of equal 
novelty, combine to make a lasting 
impression on the stranger’s mind. 

General Description of Bombay 
and its Suburbs. — The road from 

1 The general duty was 5 per cent, ad 
valorem^ but ha*; been alteied. Arms are 
subject to a special duly of Rs.50 per rifle 
or gun, Ks.30 per barrel for these, and Rs.15 
per pibtul. 





ROUTE I. PUBLIC BUILDINGS — THE UNIVERSITY 


the Ballard Pier enters the circuit 
of the Old Fort of Bombay just 
above the ancient Castle, From 
this point Mint Road leads N. to 
the Victoria Station and onwards 
to the main part of the native 
aty — Marine Street and Apollo i 
Street lead S. to Rampart Row ' 
along the S. side of the Fort, and 
the open space W, of the Apollo 
Bandar, the landing-place so well 
known to former generations of 
visitors to India — and Church 
Gate Street leads W. to Esplanade 
Road, which follow's the landward 
line of the former defences, and 
to the Back Bay on the Western 
>ide of the Island, beyond which 
most of the unofficial residences 
of the more wealthy classes are 
situated. Between the shore and 
Esplanade Road, which runs par- 
allel to it, is the splendid range 
of Public Offices. S. of the open 
space, near which all the principal 
hotels are situated, extends the 
promontory of Colaba ; and North- 
wards, along the course of the 
Back Bay, Queen’s Road leads to 
^lalabar Hill, \vhich bends round 
the N.W. side of the bay, and is 
continued to the N. by Cumballa 
Hill ; from both of these beautiful 
Views of the Back Bay and of the 
sea are obtained. E, of the two 
hills and of the 'Northern part of 
Queen’s Road Ues the native city, 
with the quarters of Byculla and 
Mazagon along the north side of it. 
Above Byculla is the principal 
location of the Bombay mills ; in 
Mazagon are the P. & O. Docks, 
below w'hich, and E. of the main 
city, lie the Prince’s and Victoria 
Docks. To the S. of the native 
city, and between it and the N.W. 
side of the Fort, are also a number 
of fine new buildings, including 
many places of business, though 
most of the houses connected with 
the trade of the port are still 
situated inside the Old Fort, 

Public Offices. 

The impressive Government 


buildings already mentioned suc- 
ceed one another in the following 
order : from S. to N,, the Prince 
of Wales’ Museum and the College 
of Science S. of the Secretariat ; 

! then come the Government Secre- 
tanat, close to Watson’s Hotel on 
the Esplanade, University Hall, 
Library, and Clock Tower, High 
Court, Pubhc Works’ Secretariat, 
Telegraph Office, and New Post 
Office. There is a building to the 
N.E. of the Telegraph Office which 
is used for the accommodation of 
the eniployh of the Telegraph 
Department. 

The Presidential Secretariat 13443 
ft. long, with two wings 81 ft. long. 
In the first floor are the Council 
Hall, 50 ft. long. Committee 
Rooms, Private Rooms for the 
Governor and Members of Coun- 
cil, and the Offices of the Revenue 
Department. The second floor 
contains the Offices of the Judicial 
and ^Military Departments, The 
style is Venetian Gothic, and the 
designer was Colonel Wilkins, R.E. 
The carving is by native artists. 
The staircase is lighted by the 
great window, go ft. high, over 
which rises the tower to 170 ft. 
At the entrance are the arms of Sir 
Bartle Frere (who was Governor 
when the plans were formulated 
for erecting Public Buildings, and 
to whom Bombay owes many of 
its improvements), and Sir S. 
Fitzgerald. 

University Hall — This fine build- 
ing, in the French Decorated style 
of the 15th century, is 104 ft. long, 
44 ft. broad, and 63 ft. high to the 
apex of the groined ceiling, with 
an apse separated from the Hall 
by a grand arch, and a gallery, 8 ft. 
broad, round three sides. The 
painted - glass windows have an 
excellent effect. The Hall, de- 
signed by Sir Gilbert Scott, R.A., 
is called after Sir Cow^asjee Jehan- 
gir Readymoney, who contributed 
Rs. 100.600 towards the cost of 



8 


ROUTE I. BOMBAY AND THE ENVIRONS 


India 


erection. It was completed in 
1874. 

The University Library and Clock 
Tower form a grand pile, designed 
by Sir Gilbert Scott in the style 
of 14th century Gothic. The 
Library is a long, low room, 
adorned with carving, and the 
Great University or Rajabai Tower 
on the W. side forms part of it, 
and is from its height (260 ft.) the 
most conspicuous building in 
Bombay. It was built at the 
expense of Mr Premchand Raich- 
and, in memory of his mother, 
Rajabai, and cost Rs. 3 00, 000. 
He also gave Rs. 100,000 for the 
Library ; and these sums, with 
accumulations, more than sufficed 
to complete the two buildings. 
The Tower is divided into six 
storeys, and is surmounted by 
an octagonal lantern spire, with 
figures in niches at the angles. 
There are twenty-four figures in all 
upon the tower, representing the 
castes of W. India. The first floor 
forms part of the upper room of 
the Library, and the second con- 
tains a study for the Registrar. 
There is an opening several feet 
square in the centre of each floor, 
so that one can look up 115 ft. to 
the ceiling of the Dial Room. The 
fourth floor contains the great 
clock. Under the dials outside 
are four small galleries, with stone 
balustrades. From the top of the 
tower there is a fine view of 
Bombay. On the E. are the 
harbour, fringed with islands, 
Mody Bay, and the Fort ; and to 
the W. are Malabar Hill and Back 
Bay ; and to the S. Colaba Point. 

The Courts of Justice. — This 
immense building, 562 ft. long, 
with a tower 175 ft. high, was 
designed by General J. A. Fuller, 
R.E. ; it is said to have cost 

00,000, and was opened in 1S79, 
The style is Early Engfish. The 
principal entrance is under a large 
arched porch in the W. facade, on 
either side of which is an octagon 


tower 120 ft. high, with pinnacles 
of white Porbandar stone, and 
surmounted by statues of Justice 
and Mercy. The main staircase 
is on the E. side, and is approached 
by a noble groined corridor in 
Porbandar stone, which runs 
through the building. The offices 
of the High Court are on the first 
and third upper floors. The 
Appellate and Original Courts are 
on the second floor. The Criminal 
Court is in the centre of the build- 
ing, above the main corridor, and 
has a carved teak gallery for the 
public running round three sides. 
The ceiling is of dark polished teak 
in panels, with a carved centre- 
piece. The floor is Italian mosaic. 

Next to the Courts of Justice, 
and separated from the Post-Office 
by a broad road which leads E. to 
the Fort and W. to the Church 
Gate Station of the B.B. and C.I. 
Railway, is the Public Works’ 
Secretariat, with a facade 288 ft. 
long, the central part having six 
storeys. 

The Railway, Irrigation, and 
other Engineering Departments 
are accommodated in tMs office. 

On the S. side of the arm of the 
road leading to the W. are the 
Statues of two former Governors 
of Bombay, Sir Richard Temple 
and Lord Reay. The latter faces 
the fine office of the B.B. and C.I. 
Railway, which has a facade 280 ft. 
long and a tow'-er 160 ft. high. 

The Old General Post-Office has 
three floors, and is 242 ft. long, 
with wings on the N. side. It was 
designed in the mediseval style by 
]\Ir Trubshawe. It now serves as 
a post-office for the Fort Area 
only. The New General Post-Office 
is a fine building near the Victoria 
Terminus Station ; it was designed 
by Mr J. Begg, and its erection 
was supervised by Mr G. Wittet. 

'J'iie Telegraph Office, in Roman- 
esqiu^ style, has a fa9ade 182 ft. 
long. The facing of it and of the 
Post-Office is of coursed rubble 



ROUTE I. TOWN HALL 


9 


stone from Kurla, in Salsette, and 
the columns are of blue basalt. 

North of the Telegraph Office at 
the junction of the Mayo and Es- 
planade Roads, which flank the 
above buildings on either side, is 
the Statue of Queen Victoria, 
by Noble, which is an object of 
constant interest to the natives. 

, It is of white marble, and cost 
Rs. 182,443, of which the large 
, sum of Rs. 165,000 was given by 
I H H. the late Khande Rao Gaek- 
war, of Baroda. The statue was 
unveiled by Lord Northbrook in 
1872. Her Majesty is represented 
seated. The Royal Arms are in 
front of the pedestal, and in the 
centre of the canopy is the Star 
of India, and, above, the Rose 
of England and Lotus of India, 
with the mottoes “ God and 
lUy Right,"’ and Heaven’s Light 
our Guide,” inscribed in four 
languages. 

Returning S. from this point to 
the Frere Fountain, and following 
Church Gate Street into the area 
of the Fort, Elphinstone Circle, 
occupying the site of the old 
Creen, is reached. In Esplanade 
Road, running S. from the foun- 
tain, and in Hornby Road, running 
N., and together marking the 
western limits of the Fort, are the 
principal shops in Bombay and 
the principal places of business 
which travellers are likely to visit. 
On the N, side of Church Gate 
Street is the office of the Bombay 
Gazette, and, farther back, that of 
the Chamber of Commerce, and on 
the S. Side is the Cathedral of St 
I’hoiiias. This was built as a 
o^^rnson church in 1718, and was 
consecrated in 1816, and made a 
cathedral on the establishment of 
the See of Bombay in 1833, on 
which occasion the low belfry was 
converted into a high tower. It is 
simple in plan, and a mixture of 
classical and Gothic in style. 

I he chancel, added 1865, is a 
^tisfactory specimen of modern 
Early English. Among the monu- 
ments IS one by Bacon to Jonathan 


Duncan, Governor for sixteen 
years. It represents him receiving 
the blessings of young Hindus 
with reference to his successful 
efiorts in suppressing infanticide 
in certain districts near Benares, 
and afterwards in Kathiawar, 
through the zealous and able 
agency of Colonel Walker. There 
are also monuments to Cap- 
tain G. N. Hardinge, R.N., who 
died in 1808 in a brilliant en- 
gagement, when he took the 
frigate La Piedmontiare ; to Col. 
Burr, who commanded at the 
battle of Kirkee (5 th November 
1817) « Ic> Major Pottinger, 

who distinguished himself in the 
defence of Herat (November 1837 
to September 1838). One of the 
chalices was the gift of Gerald 
Aungier in 1675. The fountain in 
front of the Cathedral was erected 
by Sir Cowasjee Jehangir Ready- 
money, at a cost of Rs.7000. 

The Elphinstone Circle is sur- 
rounded by handsome buildings 
and at the E. side opens on to the 
Town Hall ; in the middle is a 
well-kept garden vith statues of 
Lord Cornwallis and the Marquis 
Wellesley. From the centre of 
the S. side, on which the Bank of 
Bengal stands. Bank Street leads 
to the Bank of Bombay. 

The Town Hall, designed by 
Col. T. Cowper, was opened in 
1835, and cost about /6o,ooo, by 
far the larger portion being de- 
frayed by the E.I. Company. The 
building has a colonnade in front, 
and the fa9ade is 260 ft. long. 
The pillars in front, and the ex- 
ternal character of the edifice, are 
Doric ; the interior is Corinthian. 
On the ground floor are the 
^ledical Board offices, the office 
of the Military Auditor-General, 
and some of the weightier curiosi- 
ties of the Asiatic Society. In 
the upper storey is the Grand As- 
sembly Room, 100 ft. square, in 
which public meetings and balls are 
held ; the Assembly Room of the 



to 


ROUTE I. BOMBAY AND THE ENVIRONS 


India 


Bombay Asiatic Society ; and the 
Libra^ of this Society, founded 
by Sir James Mackintosh, con- 
taining about 100,000 volumes. 
The tine organ was presented 
by Sir A. Sassoon. The Levee 
Rooms of the Governor and the 
Commander-in-Chief, the Council 
Room, etc., are no longer used for 
their original purposes. The place 
of honour in the Grand Assembly 
Room is occupied by a statue of 
the distinguished Governor Mount- 
stuart Elphinstone, executed by 
Chantrey, as were also those of Sir 
J. Malcolm and Sir C. Forbes. At 
the head of the staircase, on one 
side, is a fine statue of Lord 
Elphinstone, the Governor during 
the Mutiny, and on the other side 
is a statue of Sir Bartle Frere, an 
excellent likeness. Between the 
circular flights of stairs is the 
statue of Sir Jamsetjee Jeejee- 
bhoy. 

The Council Room contains pic- 
tures by Mr Wales, of Baji Rao II., 
Peshwa (whose adopted son, Nana 
Dhundu Pant, will be ever in- 
famous as the author of the 
massacre at Cawnpore) ; of Baji 
Rao's celebrated minister, Nana 
Farnavis ; and of Mahdaji Sin- 
dhia. In the Library of the Asiatic 
Society, instituted in 1S04 for the 
investigation and encouragement 
of Oriental Arts, Sciences, and 
Literature, are busts of Sir James 
Carnac (by Chantrey) and Sir J. 
Mackintosh. The Geographical 
Room contains pictures of Sir A. 
Burnes, and of Sir J. Malcolm and 
Captain Ross, the two first Presi- 
dents of the Geographical Society ; 
also a very fine collection of maps. 
These two Societies are now amal- 
gamated. 

The Mint is close to the Town 
Hall, but farther back, having a 
tank m front of it. It is a plain 
building, with an Ionic portico, 
designed by Major J. Hawkins, 
and completed in 1829. Auth- 
ority was granted to the Company 
by the Crown to estabhsh a mint 


so early as 1676. Forty specimens 
of false coins are exhibited, one of 
which has been a good coin, but 
the silver has been scooped out of 
the centre and lead substituted. 

N. of the mint, at the E. end of 
the Ballard Road, which leads to 
the Ballard Pier (p. 6), are the 
imposing Ofi&ces of the Port Trust. 
At the junction of the W. end of 
Ballard Road with Frere Road, 
leading to the N. past St George's 
General Hospital, is the Ruttonjee 
Mooljee Fountain. 

Immediately behind the Town 
HaU are the remains of the Castle 
of the Old Fort, now used as an 
Arsenal. Only the walls facing 
the harbour and a portion of the 
wall to the N. now remain. There 
is a flagstaff here from which 
signals are made to ships, and also 
a clock tower, where a time signal- 
bali, connected by an electric wire 
with the Observatory at Colaba, 
falls at I p.M. 

In the Arsenal, besides the usual 
warlike materials, harness, tents, 
and other such necessaries for 
army equipment, is also an inter- 
esting collection of ancient arms 
and old native weapons of various 
descriptions. The Custom House 
is a large, ugly, old building, a 
httle to the S. of the Town Hall. 
There were some old buildings 
converted into godowns. The 
present building was erected in 
1714. A new Custom House will 
be erected on the newly-reclaimed 
ground near Ballard Pier- 

The Dockyard, originally con- 
structed in 1736, extends hence to 
the Apollo Gate, with a sea-face of 
nearly 700 yds. and an area of 
about 200 acres. It was here that 
his Majesty King Edward landed 
on 8th November 1875. There 
are five graving docks, three of 
which together make one large 
dock 648 ft. long, the other two 
graving docks making a single 
dock 582 ft. long. There are also 
four building slips opposite the 
Apollo Pier and on the S.E. side 



ROUTE I. DOCKYARD COLABA 


IX 


ot the enclosure. The dockyard is 
lighted by electricity, so that work 
can be carried on by night if neces- 
sary. Bombay is the only impor- 
tant place near the open sea in 
India where the rise of the tide is 
sufficient to permit docks on a 
large scale. The highest spring 
tides reach to 17 ft., but the usual 
height is 14 ft. In the dockyard 
four generations of a Parsi family 
of the name of Lowji gained much 
renown during the i8th century, 
and built a number of British 
men-of-war. 

From the dockyard Custom 
House Street leads past the Great 
^^estern Hotel, once the High 
Court building, and St Andrew's 
Church, built in 1818, to the open 
space S. of Rampart Row, \V., 
marking the Southern side of the 
Old Fort. On the left here is the 
hne building of the Royal Alfred 
Sailors' Horae, with accommoda- 
tion for 100 inmates. The sculp- 
ture in the gable, representing 
Neptune with nymphs and sea- 
horses, was executed by Mr Bolton 
of Cheltenham. His late High- 
iiess Khande Rao Gaekwar gave 
Ks .200,000 towards the cost of the 
building to commemorate the 
Duke of Edinburgh’s visit, and 
the foundation-stone was laid in 
1870 by the Duke. Opposite the 
Home IS the New Prince of 
^\ales Museum of W. India. A 
bronze statue of His Majesty, 
King George V. (the gift of Sir 
Sassoon J. David), flanks this n^^w 
^^luseum on this side, as that of 
King Edward (p, 12) flanks the 
Site on the other side. 

Beyond this Apollo Bandar 
Koad leads E. from the Wellington 
fountain to the Apollo Bandar 
Kmr, officially known as the 
^Wllington Pier, passing between 
the Esplanade Annexe and the 
Club on the left hand, and 
the Bowen Church, Sardar's Man- 
sions, and Yacht Club Chambers 
on the right. The Club has a 
unarming terrace - garden on the 
Sea-front. On either side of the 


head of the Colaba Causeway, 
running S. from the fountain, are 
the Y.M.C. Institute, the Hotel 
Majestic, and the Apollo Hotel, 
and a little farther S. is the new 
Tata Hotel, known as the Taj 
iMahal, on the sea-shore. The 
Causeway leads past Cotton Green, 
the Sassoon Dock (650 ft. long, 
and the first wet dock made 
in India), and the B.B. and 
C.I. Railway terminal station to 
Colaba, formerly a separate island, 
with St John's Church, the Euro- 
pean Barracks, the Connaught 
Hall, and the Observatory. The 
Church, erected as a memorial of 
the first Afghan War, and conse- 
crated in 1858, consists of nave 
and aisles 138 ft. long, -with a 
chancel 30 ft. long, and a tower 
and spire 198 ft. high, conspicuous 
for some distance at sea. The 
efiect on entering is good, owing 
to the length and height of the 
building, the simplicity of the 
architecture, and the “ dim reh- 
gious light " diffused through the 
stained-glass windows. The roof 
is of teak. The illuminated metal 
screen, light and elegantly de- 
signed, is surmounted by a gilt 
cross. About Jth of the cost of 
the spire was contributed by Mr 
Cowasjee Jehangir in 1864, a 
striking instance of Parsi liberality 
and of good feeling beriveen Parsis 
and Europeans, 

At the W. end of the N. aisle 
is a triple window, erected to the 
memory of General David Barr. 

The memorial marbles ” are of 
alternate colours of white, red, 
yellow^ and blue ; and beneath 
them runs the follo^ving inscrip- 
tion, painted on a blue ground : — 

Tins Church was built in Memory of the 
OtTiceis Nvhose name^ are written above, and 
of the Non-Commissioned Officeis and 
Private Soldiers, too many to be so recorded, 
a ho fell, mindful of their duty, by sickness 
or !>\ the sword, in the Campaigns of Sind 
and Afghanit-tan, a.d 1S3S-1S43 

At the extremity of the promon- 
tory are the Old Lighthouse, and a 
well - kept European Cemetery. 



12 


ROUTE I. BOMBAY AND THE ENVIRONS 


India 


The present lighthouse is on 
Prong Island, J m. S. of Colaba 
Point, with which it is connected 
by a ridge of rock exposed at low 
tides ; it is 1 50 ft. high, and the 
light which flashes every 10 secs, 
is visible 18 m. off at sea. 

It is under consideration to 
make a great reclamation along 
the Back Bay from Colaba up to 
the Marine Lines, providing a large 
area for a new European residen- 
tial quarter, a park, cantonment, 
and Government House. 

Returning to the Wellington 
Fountain, the road along the W. 
side of the open ground leads past 
a fine block of buildings, consisting 
of the new Museum just completed, 
a College of Science, the Elphin- 
stone College, the Sassoon Institute, 
the Army and Navy Stores, and the 
Esplanade Hotel. Opposite the 
last is the equestrian statue of 
King Edward as Prince of Wales, 
by Sir Edgar Boehm, presented to 
the city by Sir A. Sassoon at a 
cost of 

It is intended that the memorial 
of the King Emperor shall take 
the form of a large General Hos- 
pital in the Northern part of the 
city, a Convalescent Home, and 
a Consumptive Sanatorium in the 
Ghats. 

The Prince of Wales Museum of 
Western India, — This fine group 
of buildings, the foundation-stone 
of which was laid by H.R. H., 
then Prince of Wales, on nth 
November 1905, on the occasion of 
his visit to India, occupies an 
island site at the Southern end of 
Esplanade Road. The scheme 
consists of three units, arranged 
round three sides of a quadrangle, 
the t:entral block containing the 
art and archaeological department 
flanked on one side by the Natural 
History Museum and on the other 
by the Industries section! Th(‘ 
lower floors of the central block 
are occupied by archaeological 


exhibits and tne upper floors 
contain the picture galleries. ^ In 
1914, when nearing completion, 
the building was converted into a 
War Hospital for' Indian troops, 
which purpose it served admir- 
ably. The style of the structure 
is based on the Indian work of the 
15th and 1 6th centuries in the 
Presidency, and the materials used 
are the blue and yellow basalt 
found in the vicinity of Bombay. 
The buildings were designed and 
carried out under the supervision 
of Mr G. Wittet, F.R.I.B.A., 
Architect to the Government of 
Bombay. 

The Royal Institute of Science. — 

This important group of buildings 
owes its inception to Lord Syden- 
ham, formerly Governor of Bom- 
bay, who laid the foundation-stone 
in 1911, and to the generosity of 
Sir Jacob Sassoon, Sir Cowasji 
J ehangir. Sir Currimbhoy Ebrahim, 
and Sir Vasanji Tricumji Mulji, 
who furnished contributions for 
the erection of the various units. 
The scheme consists of a College 
of ; hree-storey 

blc » . ■ ■ ■ Road, a 

sci ^ . jL fic ball at 

the corner of Mayo Road and 
Esplanade Road, and a block 
of examination schools facing 
Esplanade Road, The building, 
which is Renaissance in character, 
is constructed of yellow basalt 
stone, obtained from quarries in 
the vicinity of Bombay. The 
architect was Mr G. Wittet, 
F.R.I.B.A. 

The Elphinstone College, re- 
moved from Byculla in 1890, now 
occupies a large building in the 
Romanesque Transition style, 
which cost 7J lakhs of rupees. 
It is called after Sir Cowasjee 
Jehangir Readymoney, in re- 
cognition of his having given 2 
lakhs of rupees for the purpose 
of building the original institu- 
tion. The Elphinstone Institu- 
tion was founded as a memorial 



ROUTE I. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS 


13 


to the Hon. Mountstuart Elphin- 
, stone, the Governor of Bombay. 
In 1S56 it was divided into a 
High School (see p. 15), and 
this College for the higher educa- 
I tion of natives, who contributed 
1 upwards of 2 lakhs to endow 
professorships in Enghsh, and the 
Arts, Sciences, and Literature of 
Europe. The sum accumulated 
to about 4J lakhs, and Govern- 
ment augments the interest on 
this by an annual grant-in-aid of 
Rs.22,ooo. In 1862 Sir Alexander 
Grant, Bart., was Principal of the 
College, and some distinguished 
scholars have filled Professorships, 
as. for instance, Mirza Hairat, who 
translated Malcolm’s History of 
j Persia into Persian. In the 
I library is a portrait of Elphinstone 
by Sir T. Lawrence. The State 
l?.ecord Office and Patent Office 
occupy the W. wing of the College. 
Amongst the records are preserved 
the oldest document relating to 
the Indian Empire, a letter from 
Surat (1630), and the letter of the 
Luke of Wellington announcing 
the victory at Assaye. 

The Mechanics’ or Sassoon In- 
stitute was founded originally in 
1S47, but refounded and renamed 
by David Sassoon and his son Sir 
Albert in 1870, and cost £1^,000. 
Lectures are delivered and prize 
medals awarded. Life-members 
pay Rs.150, and members Rs.6 per 
quarter. In the entrance hall is 
a statue of Mr David Sassoon, by 
Woolner. There is also a good 
library. 

From here Esplanade Road, 
^^'ith the Bombay Club on its W. 
Side beyond the University Gar- 
dens, leads to Church Gate Street 
and Hornby Road. On the W. 
side of the entrance to the latter 
are the lofty Oriental Buildings, 
and a little beyond them on the 
same side of the road are the fine 
new Chartered Bank and Standard 
Buildings, while a little back in , 
Gntram Road is the Cathedral 
Bigh School for boys. On the ! 


right is the lofty building of the 
Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy Institute, 
founded in 1849 by Sir Jamset- 
jee Jeejeebhoy, who, with Lady 
Avabai, his wife, set apart for the 
purpose 3 lakhs of rupees and 25 
shares in the Bank of Bengal, to 
which the Parsi Panchayat added 
35 shares more. The Government 
of India are the trustees, and pay 
interest at 6 per cent, on the 3 
lakhs, and the capital of the Insti- 
tution now amounts to 12 lakhs. 
The income is divided into 400 
shares, of which 180 go for the 
Boys' and Girls’ Schools in Bom- 
bay, 70 for those in Surat, and 1 50 
for charities for the poor. Farther 
N. rise two great architectural 
piles, one on either hand — the 
Terminus Station and Offices of 
the G.I.P. Railway to the E., and 
the Municipal Offices on the W. 
Between them, on a circular 
garden plot, is a statue, by 
Brock, of the late Sir Dinshaw 
Petit, first Baronet. 

The Victoria Station is elabor- 
ately ornamented wdth sculpture 
and surmounted by a large central 
dome. The architect was F. W. 
Stevens, C I.E. ; the style is 
Italian Gothic, vith certain Ori- 
ental modifications in the domes. 
It cost the Railway Company 
;f30o,ooo, and was completed in 
1888. It is one of the handsomest 
buildings in ^Bombay and finest 
railway stations in India or any 
country, wdth the most excellent 
and convenient arrangements in 
every respect. S. of it is the fine 
large structure of the New General 
Post-Office in the Bijapur style of 
architecture (p. 490). S.E. of the 
railway station, in a well-laid-out 
garden, is St George’s General 
Hospital for Europeans, with 140 
beds ; it has a convalescent home 
at Khandala (Route 26). 

The Municipal Buildings were 
also designed by Mr Stevens, and 
were opened in 1893. The Ori- 
ental feeling introduced into the 



14 


ROUTE I. BOMBAY AND THE ENVIRONS 


India 


Gothic architecture has a pleasing 
effect. The tower, 255 ft. high, 
and surmounted by a masonry 
dome, can be seen from all parts 
of Bombay. The central gable 
terminates in a statue 13 ft. high, 
representing “ Urbs prima in 
Indis.'" The grand staircase is 
also crowned by an imposing dome. 

Opposite these buildings 
Waudby Road leads S.W. to the 
Queen’s Statue, passing the Gaiety 
and Novelty Theatres, the Scotch 
Free Church, the Masonic Hall, 
and the Alexandra School for 
Girls, founded by Mr Maneckjee 
Cursetjee, to the E. of it, and 
the open space of the Maid an 
or General Parade Ground and 
the Bombay Gymkhana Club on 
the W. At the corner of the 
Maidan, opposite the Municipal 
Buildings, is a statue of the late 
Mr Jamshedji Tata, flanked by 
allegorical figures. 

From the Victoria Railway Sta- 
tion, Hornby Road continues N, 
up to the Crawford Market and 
the main residential quarters of 
the native city, passing on the left 
the new Times of India Ofhce, the 
Islamia School, the Church of the 
Holy Trinity, and the School of 
Art ; while from the station to 
the N.W. runs Cruikshank Road 
in front of the Municipal Offices, 
and past the Pohce Courts, the 
Allbless and Cama Hospitals, St 
Xavier’s College, and the Elphin- 
stone High School. On Carnac 
Road, which joins these tv^'o roads ; 
and forms the third side of a 
triangle with them, is the St 
Xavier’s High School and the 
Gokaldas Tejpal Native , General 
Hospital. The new Improvement 
Trust road, which forms the first 
portion of the Eastern Avenue, 
leaves Carnac Road near the 
Crawford Market. 

The Anjuman - i - Islam School 
was erected by the co-operation of 
Government, which gave the site, 
valued at Rs. 158,000, with a 
money - grant of Rs- 38,000, the I 


Muhammadans themselves sub- 
scribing Rs. 1 60, 000, of which 
Rs.50,000 were set apart as an 
endowment. The building was 
opened by Lord Harris in 1893, 
and the erection of it marks an 
epoch in the history of the Muham- 
madan community. The building, 
which is of most pleasing appear- 
ance, and has a tower 125 ft. high, 
was designed by Mr J, Willcocks, 
of the Public Works Department. 

The Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy 
School of Art, called after that 
distinguished Parsi gentleman, 
who contributed Rs. 100,000 to- 
wards it, was first opened for 
pupils in 1857. In 1877 the 
present handsome building was 
erected for it. Excellent drawings 
and designs are made here, as 
well as good pottery, arms, artistic 
work in silver and copper, and 
decorative carving in wood and 
stone. The buildings in Western 
India owe much of their beauty to 
students of this institution. The 
latest additions to it are the Sir 
George Clarke Studios and Tech- 
nical Laboratories, which include 
the Art Pottery Works, where some 
beautiful designs, purely Indian 
in form and ornament, have been 
carried out. 

The Gokaldas Tejpal Hospital, 
for natives, can contain 150 
patients, and is generally full. 
The annual number of out-patients 
is over 13,000. It owes its origin 
to a gift of ^15,000 made by 
Mr Gokaldas Tejpal, and a similar 
gift by Mr Rustomjee Jamsetjee 
Jeejeebhoy. 

St Xavier’s College, Cruikshank 
Road, and St Xavier’s High School, 
Carnac Road, founded in 1867, 
are now separate institutions, both 
under the Jesuit fathers. The 
College, with 800 pupils for uni- 
versity studies, includes a highly- 
equipped science department. The 
High School (1200 pupils) is a 



ROUTE I. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS 


15 


massive building, with a high 
octagonal tower. 

Opposite the High School is the 
new Court of Small Causes, just 
being built. ISfear by, at the 
entrance to the native town, was 
formerly the Robert Money School, 

! founded in 1838, but now removed 
to Girgaum and under the man- 
agement of the C.M.S. 

The Elphiustone High School 
is the Government public school of 
Bombay, and retained possession 
of the original buildings on this 
site when the College Department 
wab separated to form the Elphin- 
stone College. In front of it is a 
line tlight of steps. 

I “ The object of this school is to 
' furnish a high - class and hberal 
education up to the standard of 
the University entrance examina- 
tion, at fees wdthin the reach of the 
middle - class people of Bombay 
^ind Mufassal. It has classes for 
the study of English, Mahratti, 
Gujarati, Sanskrit, Latin, and 
Tersian, and contains 28 class- 
rooms, a hall on the first floor 
measuring 62 It. by 35 ft., and a 
library. There are 700 scholars 
m the school under a Principal, and 
42 masters ; there are also instruc- 
tors in drill and cricket. The 
building, which is 452 ft. long, 
^ras designed by Mr G. T. Molecey. 
Sir^ A. Sassoon contributed i-^ 
lakhs of rupees towards it. 

The Pestonji Kama Hospital, 
mr Women and Children, is a 
Gothic building containing 75 
It owes its existence to the 
gft of Rs. 164,000 by Mr Pestonjee 
^ormusjee Cama, as the Allbless 
Gbstetric Hospital beyond it does 
m the munificence of Mr Bomanjee 
Lduljee Allbless. The latter con- 
mins 30 beds. Both are under the 
bufferin Fund and the sole man- 
agement of lady doctors, the nurs- 
done by the Sisters of 
Ml Saints, who also nurse in the 
Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy and St 
^eorge’s Hospitals. Farther E., 


and adjoining the Municipal 
Offices, are the lofty buildings of 
the Esplanade Police Courts, 
erected in 1884-88, 

The Crawford Market jvas 
founded by Mr Arthur Crawford, 
C.S., Municipal Commissioner 
from 1865 to 1871, and cost over 
II lakhs of Rs. It consists of a 
Central Hall, in which is a drink- 
ing fountain, given by Sir Cow- 
asjee Jehangir Readymoney, sur- 
mounted by a Clock Tower, 128 
ft. high. To the right is a wing, 
150 ft. by 100 ft., in which are 
fruit and flowers, and on the left 
is another wing, 350 ft. by loo ft., 
for vegetables, etc., etc. The 
whole is covered wfith a double 
iron roof. The ground is paved 
with flagstones from Caithness. 
" In that collection of handsome 
and spacious halls . . . fish, flesh, 
vegetables, flowers, fruit, and 
general commodities are vended in 
separate buildings, all kept in 
admirable order and cleanliness, 
and all opening upon green and 
shady gardens” (Edwin Arnold). 
There are many kinds of plantains 
or bananas ; the finest are short, 
thick, and yellow. The best 
oranges are those from Nagpur, 
and the best grapes are from 
Aurangabad. The mangoes come 
in in May ; the best are grown 
about Mazagon,^ where, however, 
few trees now remain. The bulk 
of the mangoes now come from 
Bangalore and other places in 
the south. The Pummelow, the 
Citrus decumana, is particularly 
fine in Bombay. The Fish Mar- 
ket is at. the end of the Mutton 
Market, The turtles come from 
Karachi, in Sind. The oysters are 
of moderate size and well - fla- 
voured. The Palla fish, generally 
about 2 ft. long, the salmon of 
India, is excellent, but has many 
troublesome bones. The best fish 
of all is the pomflet, or pomfret, a 

lit was the failure of supplies of Mazagon 
mangoes which specially annoyed the Wazir 
Fazl-ud'din in Lala Rookh. 



i6 


ROUTE I. BOMBAY AND THE ENVIRONS 


India 


flat fish. The Bomhil, called by 
the English Bommelo and Bombay 
Duck, is a glutinous fish, much 
used when salted and dried. Near 
the fountain, with its beautiful 
shrybs, are seats for loungers. On 
the S. side is the Poultry Market, 
where fowls, ducks, turkeys, snipe, 
curlew, teal, and occasionally 
florican may be purchased when 
in season. The market well de- 
serves a visit early in the morning, 
though the visitor must expect to 
find the crowd dense and the 
hubbub deafening. 

A httle N.W. of the market, 
extending to the Back Bay near 
the Marine Lines Station, is Prin- 
cess Street, named after, and on 
1 6th November 1905 declared open 
by Her Majesty Queen Mary 
(then Princess of Wales), opening 
out one of the most congested old 
quarters of the city. This was 
the first arterial thoroughfare 
opened by the City Improvement 
Trust. Another main one, Sand- 
hurst Road, runs from the head of 
the Back Bay to Dongri Street, 
and through Naoroji Hill to the 
Docks. Another Trust road runs 
from Queen's Road to Jacob's 
Circle, past the Byculla Club. 

N.E. of the market and between 
the main native city and the sea 
are the principal commercial docks 
of Bombay. The Victoria Dock 
occupies the space formerly taken 
up by the Masjid and Nicol basins. 
It covers 25 acres, and has an 
entrance 80 ft. in width. Prince's 
Dock, lying N. of this and con- 
nected with it, was commenced 
during the Prince of Wales's visit 
in 1875-76. In excavating it the 
remains of a submerged forest 
were found at a depth of about 
10 ft. About 100 trees from 10 ft, 
to 20 ft. long were exhumed, the 
wood being red and very hard. 
The dock is 1460 ft. x 1600 ft., and 
extends over 30 acres, and is cap- 
able of containing twenty ocean 
steamers. It is fitted with a tidal 
observatory. On the N.W, again 
is the Merewether Dry Dock, and 


adjacent to the docks are a whole 
street of warehouses and offices, 
the Church of St Nicholas, and the 
Seamen's Institute, round which 
the Harbour Alission centres. 
South of the Victoria Dock has 
been constructed the Alexandra 
Dock, of which the foundation- 
stone was laid by King George V. 
(then Prince of Wales) on 13th 
November 1905, and which is the 
largest in India. It extends S. of 
the Ballard Pier, and encloses an 
area of 49.52 acres. The depth of 
water in it is 47 ft., and the Hughes 
Dry Dock is 1000 ft. long, and has 
an entrance 1 00 ft. wide. The Dock 
was opened on the 21st of March 
1914. The total cost of the works 
is nearly 600 lakhs. These recent 
developments have been carried 
out under the professional charge 
of the Trust Engineer, Mr P. 
Glynn Messent, C.I.E. Sir Walter 
Hughes, C.I E., was Chairman of 
the Trust up to 1910. Sir 
Frederick Sprott has been Chair- 
man since 1910. 

All these docks were excavated 
on the estate known as the Elphin- 
stone and Mody Bay Reclamations, 
which have taken in from the sea 
483 acres, and have raised and 
improved 157 acres. The Elphin- 
stone and the Mody Bay Reclama- 
tions, S. of the Victoria Dock, have 
transformed the Eastern foreshore 
of the island from a mud swamp to 
a busy mercantile quarter wortbv 
of the Capital of Western India. 
A still greater scheme of reclama- 
tion is now^ approaching comple- 
tion between Mazagon and Sewri. 
A grain depot has been established 
on this reclamation, as well as 
temporary depots for cotton and 
coal. The Cotton Green will be 
moved from Colaba to this recla- 
mation m a few years' time. 

The whole of the Trustees’ 
Docks are now connected with 
the two railways which feed Bom- 
bay, namely, the G.I.P. Railway 
and B.B. and C.I. Railway, and by 
the Port Trust Railway, the point 
of junction being at Wadala, 





ROUTE I. NATIVE CITV PINJRArOL 


17 


about 6 m. North oi' the Alexander 
Dock. 

The Dockyard of the P. & o. 
Company lies J m. N. of Prince’s 
Dock, in the suburb of Mazagon. 
It covers 12 acres, and there are 
iron sheds for 18,000 tons of coal. 
The Ritchie Dock is 495 ft. long, 
and capable of receiving vessels 
of deep draught. There is a com- 
plete engineering establishment at 
the dock capable of carrying out 
work of all descriptions. Close by 
IS the Electrical Power Station 
which lights the city and runs the 
tramwa^'^ service. 

In the Native City the streets 
and bazars are narrow and tor- 
tuous, but generally clean and 
bright. Some of the houses are 
remarkably fine as works of art, 
and have been much influenced by 
the wooden architectural style of 
Gujarat. Their fronts are covered 
With carving, and in some cases 
they have projecting storeys sup- 
ported upon elaborately sculp- 
tured corbels. Here and there are 
mosques and Hindu temples 
gaudily painted. The streets 
teem with hfe. Sir Edwin Arnold 
writes of them : “A tide of 
Asiatic humanity ebbs and flows 
up and down the Bhendi bazar, 
and through the chief mercantile 
thoroughfares. Nowhere could be 
seen a play of liveher hues, a 
busier and brighter city life. 
Besides the endless crowds of , 
Hindu, Gujarati, and Mahratta 
people coming and going between 
i'ows of grotesquely-painted houses 
and temples, there are to be 
studied here specimens of every 
race and nation of the East.” 

There are nearly 3000 jewellers 
of the different Indian nationali- 
ties in Bombay, who find constant 
und lucrative employment. One 
of the most active industries is the 
uianufacture of brass and copper 
pots and other utensils. The 
Copper Bazar, opposite the Mom- 


badevi Tank,^ is the busiest and 
noisiest, and one of the most 
dehghtful streets.” - The black 
wood-carving is famous, as is the 
sandal- wood and other carving ; 
the term ” Bombay Boxes ” in- 
cludes sandal - wood carving as 
well as inlay work. Tortoise-shell 
carving is a specialii:, also lac- 
quered turnery. Gold and silver 
thread is manufactured and used 
for lace, and Bombay embroidery 
is much prized. The Bombay 
School of Pottery, under the 
guidance of iMr George Terry, has 
developed t^vo original varieties 
of glazed pottery. 

In Bellasis Road, Byciilla, also, 
are the Arab S tables, wxli 'worth a 
visit in the early morning, not only 
for the sake of viewing some of the 
finest horses in the East, but to 
see the Arabs themselves who 
bring them to Bombay for sale. 
The stables of the importers of 
Australian horses are also near 
here. 

The Nal Bazar, in Sandhurst 
Road, in the N.W. quarter of the 
city, supphes a large part of Bom- 
bay, and is generally immensely 
crowded. 

A little S. of the Bazar is the 
Pinjrapol, or Native Infirmary 
for Sick Animals, a curious insti- 
tution, covering several acres. 
This place is in the quarter 
called Bholeswar, Lord of the 
Simple ” ; and the temple of the 
deity so called, a form of Siva, 
is within the e'nclosure. Near 
it again, to the S.W., is the 
Roman Cathohe Cathedral, N.S., 
da Esperanca, and, to the S.E., 
the Mombadevi Tank and Temple, 
from which the name of Bombay 
is believed to be derived. S. of the 
Tank is the Jami Masjid, and E. 
of this is the main thorough- 

1 Momba (Mumba) itself a conuption 

of Maha Amma (Amba), Great Mother. 
(See p. z)- , 

2 Sir G. Bird%vood’s Industrial Arts p/ 
India, which see for further particulars. 



20 


ROUTE I. BOMBAY AND THE ENVIRONS 


India 


Candy are the Mahalakshmi 
Temple and Tank on the sea. In j 
the centre of Malabar Hill, about | 
i8o ft. above the sea, are the : 
grounds of the Ladies' Gymkhana, 1 
and beyond them the Hanging | 
Gardens, affording lovely views of | 
the Back Bay and of the great line ' 
of grand buildings rising on the 
farther side of it, and of the i 
harbour and islands and moun- , 
tains beyond them. Between the j 
gardens is All Saints' Church, and ; 
beyond them and N. of the head 
of the curve of the bay are the 
Five Farsi Towers of Silence. In 
order to see them, permission must j 
be obtained from the secretary to j 
the Parsi Panchayat. Sir Jam- . 
setjee Jeejeebhoy, at his own ' 
expense, made the road which | 
leads to the Towers on the N. side, i 
and gave 100,000 sq. yds. of land | 
on the N. and E. sides of the I 
Towers. Within the gateway of j 
an outer enclosure a flight of eighty | 
steps mounts up to a gateway in an 1 
inner wall. From this point the | 
visitor is accompanied by an 
official of the Panchayat, and 1 
turning to the right comes to a ; 
stone building, where, during j 
funerals, prayer is offered. At a , 
Parsi funeral the bier is carried up j 
the steps by four Nasr Salars, or ' 
" Gamers of the Dead," and fol- j 
lowed by two bearded men and a 1 
large number of Parsi mourners in ; 
white robes walking two and two 
in procession. The bearded men, 
who come next the bier, are the 
only persons who enter the tower. 
On leaving the tower, aftei 
depositing the corpse on the ; 
grating within, they proceed to j 
the purif)dng place, where they ; 
wash and leave the clothes they 
have worn in a tower built for that , 
express purpose. The general 
mourners have their clothes linked, ; 
in which there is a mystic meaning. ! 
There is a model of one of the 
Towers which was exhibited to 
the Prince of Wales (now King 
George V.) in 1905, and is pro- 
duced to visitors. The five towers 


are cylindrical in shape, and 
whitewashed. The iargest (276 ft. 
round and 25 ft. high) cost ^£30, 000, 
while the other four on an average 
cost £2.0,000 each. At 8 ft. from 
the ground is an aperture in the 
encircling wall about 54 ft. square, 
to which the carriers of the dead 
ascend by a flight of steps. Inside 
the plan of the building resembles 
a circular gridiron, gradually de- 
pressed towards the centre, in 
which is a well 5 ft. in diameter. 
Besides the circular wall which 
encloses this well there are two 
other circular walls between it and 
the outside, with footpaths run- 
ning upon them ; the spaces 
betw’een them are divided into 
compartments by radiating walls 
from an imaginary centre. The 
bodies of adult males are laid in 
the outer series of compartments 
thus formed, the women in the 
middle series, and the children in 
that nearest the well. They are 
placed in these grooves quite 
naked, and in half an hour the 
flesh is so completely devoured 
by the numerous vultures that 
inhabit the trees around that 
nothing but the skeleton remains. 
This is left to bleach in sun and 
wind till it becomes perfectly dry. 
Then the earners of the dead, 
gloved and with tongs, remove the 
bones from the grooves and cast 
them into the well. Here they 
crumble into dust. The dust in 
the well accumulates so slowly 
that in forty years it rose only 5 ft. 
This method of interment origin- 
ates from the veneration the Parsis 
pay to the elements. Fire is too 
highly regarded by them to allow 
it to be polluted by burning the 
dead, W^ater is almost equally 
respected, and so is earth ; hence 
this singular mode of interment 
has been devised. There is, how- 
ever, another reason. Zartasht 
said that rich and poor must meet 
in death ; and this saying has been 
hterally interpreted and carried 
out by the contrivance of the well. 
The surroundings of the Towers 



21 


ROUTE I. PARSI DHARMSALA — MISSIONS 


are arranged to foster calm medi- 
tation. The mourner at once 
arrives at the bouse of prayer, and 
around is a beautiful garden full 
of flowers and flowering shrubs, 
where, under the shade of fine 
trees, relatives of the deceased can 
sit and meditate ; and the view to 
the W- and S. over the waters, and 
to the E. and N. over the harbour 
and the distant mountains be- 
yond, is enchanting. Even the 
cypresses, as the Parsis them- 
selves say, tapering upwards, point 
the way to heaven. At the S.E. 
foot of the hill is an Almshouse 
for decayed Parsis of both sexes, 
erected by the sons of the late 
Pardonjee Sorabjee Parak. The 
drive, if a motor is employed, 
should be continued along ^ the 
Hornby Vellard to Warh and 
through the beautiful Mahim woods 
of coconut and other palm-trees. 

The Farsi Dharmsala, in the 
Gam Devi Road, intended for poor 
Persian Parsis, is passed on the 
approach to the Towers of Silence 
from the S. A similar dharmsala 
close by was erected by Sir 
Cowasjee Jehangir Readymoney, 
m meinor^^ of his grandfather in 
lSl2. 

The Tata Hydro Electric Scheme 
near Bombay, inaugurated by Sir 
Dorab Tata, may be considered 
one of the most remarkable in the 
whole world. It is unique in so 
far as it has aimed, at creating its 
oNvn head of water by impounding 
the monsoon rainfall on the Ghats 
Lonauli (p. 462), often 500 in., 
ui extensive hydraulic works, com- 
pUbing the three lakes formed at 
Shirawta, Walwhan, and Lonauli, 
^i'ith intercommunicating duct 
nhcs, forebay, etc. The dams of 
these three lakes are approxi- 
mately 90, 70, and 34 ft. in height 
With areas of 3000, 1700, and 720 
^cres respectively, all at 2000 ft. 
above sea-level. The foundation- 
">tone of the first dam, which 
uupounds the Lonauli Lake, was 


: laid by Sir George Clarke on the 
I 8th February 1911. The ducts 
I lead the water to a forebay near 
I the Duke’s Nose, where it enters 
I the Pipe Line, to take a plunge 
of 1740 ft. down to the Generating 
I Station at Khopoli, where 40,000 
i horse-pow’er is being generated by 
‘ five big turbines. When the 
j scheme is extended to its fullest 
I capacity, with three more tur- 
: bines, it may be possible to de- 
1 velop 80,000 horse-power. The 
' water which will thus be utilised 
! and released at Khopoli, computed 
: in cubic feet per second, will 
; equal the River Thames in 
i volume. The power generated is 
: conveyed 42 m. to a Receiving 
j Station at Parel, in the Island of 
Bombay, by aerial transmission 
cables at a pressure of 100,000 
volts, crossing several navigable 
creeks on loft}" 4 steel towers. 
From the Receiving Station the 
first instalment of 40,000 horse- 
power is distributed, among other 
consumers, to thirty -four mills. 
The introduction of electric power 
will, it is hoped, remove the 
I present smoke nuisance in Bombay 
; when it has sufficiently replaced 
its rival — steaui. 

MISSIONS. 

The S.P.G., with Church in 
Kamatipura Road, has four mis- 
sionary clergy in the town, and a 
branch of the Ladies’ Association 
w^orking in the zenanas. 

The C.M.S. (established in 
Bombay since 1820) has a Church 
in Dhanji Street, and large Schools 
for boys and girls at Girgaon. 

The Mission Priests of St John 
the Evangelist (Cowley Fathers) 
serve the Church of St Peter’s, 
Mazagon, and have a Mission 
House and Schools for boys and 
! girls near it ; also a native >Iission 
and Orphanage in Babula Tank 
' Road. 

The All Saints " Sisters (from 
Margaret Street) have been work- 
ing in Bombay since 1878, and 



22 


ROUTE I. BOMBAY AND THE ENVIRONS 


India 


nurse in the following Hospitals : 
European General, Jamsetjee Jee- , 
jeebhoy, and Pestonji Kama. 
They have two High Schools for 
girls, in Elphinstone Circle and 
near St Peter's, Mazagon. 

The A merican Presbyterian 
Board of Foreign Misstons or 
Mahraita Mission, Byculla, has a 
considerable staff. The United 
Free Church of Scotland has a 
strong body of missionaries con- 
nected with the Wilson Mission 
College (p, 19), affiliated to the 
University. i 

The Roman Catholic Church is 1 
represented by the Jesuit Fathers | 
as well as secular clergy, under j 
an archbishop, who have eleven ; 
churches and eleven chapels in | 
the island, large schools and a [ 
college for boys, and several j 
convent schools and charitable 
institution for girls. The old 
Portuguese Padroado jurisdiction 
is also represented by a large 
number of churches, chapels and 
secular clergy, under the Bishop 
of Damaun, who have care of the 
vast number of immigrants from 1 
Goa. 


OTHER SIGHTS IN BOMBAY. 

The Natural History Society's 
Museum m Apollo Street. 

The Bombay Branch, Royal 
Asiatic Society’s Library and 
Museum. , 

The Spinning Mills at Tardeo, j 
Parel, and Warli. 

The Malabar Hill Reservoir and ! 
Hanging Gardens. 1 

The Locomotive Workshops at I 
Parel. I 


SIGHTS IN THE VICINITY OF 
BOMBAY: SHORT TRIPS. 

I. In the Hakbour and dv Sea. 


II. By TiiE H.B. Asn C. I Rauwav. 

I Bandra. 3. Kanheri Cavt-s. 

-• Caves, 4. Montpezir Ciues. 

\ esava and Al- 5. Bassein. 
deamar. 

III. Hy THt G.I.P. Raitway 

I. The Vehar Lake. 3. The Bhor Ghat-.. 
2- Tansa Lake. Khandala, I on* 

3. ^ The Thai Ghats, auh, and Kadi 

Hatpuri, and Ca\e's 

Na.-'ick. 6. Ptjona. 

4. Matheran. 7. -Mahahalc'.hw ar 

and Panidi^ari, 


I. In the Harbour and bv Sea. 

(i) Elephanta is a small island 
about 6 m from the Fort of Bom- 
bay. For visiting this remarkable 
place Cook's launches- rim several 
times weekly, and a coasting 
launch run-> daily from Carnac 
Bandar. They make the passage 
in about i or hrs. A bandar- 
boat may be hired at from Rs.3 
to Rs.5, in which case the length 
of the passage will depend on 
wind and tide. A cheap and 
convenient way of making tJie 
trip is to go by the Harboui 
Ferry from Carnac Bandar. It 
starts at 7.30 and is back by 12.13 
the same morning, giving ample 
time to see the caves, which are 
reached by a walk of i m. from 
the old landing-place in the S.W. 
of the island. The boat will pass 
close to Butcher’s Island, which 
is 3 m. nearly due E. from 
JMazagon Dock" The island is 
entirely occupied by the Royal 
Engineering Staff, and the prin- 
cipal wireless installation is placed 
upon it. The view in this part 
of the harbour is fine. To the 
N. is the hill known as the 
Neat's Tongue, on Trombay 
Island, which is 1000 ft. above 
sea -level. The highest point of 
Elephanta is 568 ft. To the S. 
IS the hill above Karanja, called 
Dronagiri — a mass of rock thrown 
down by Hanuman on his flight 
to Ceylon. 


3. Down the Coast to 
Goa and .Man- 
galore. 


I For 3 to 7. see separate entries. 

- Messis T Cook & Son (office in Esplan- 
ade Road). 


r Elephanta. 
2. C'haul, 




PubiiAKedLhv John Murra^if AUfiHiuirti' lonAj/ti 






ROUTE I. SIGHTS IN THE VICINITY : ELEPHANTA 


23 


Elephanta is called by the 
natives GharapuYi (“ the town of 
the rock,” or “of purification,” 
according to Dr Wilson), or Gava- 
puri (“ the town of excavations,” 
according to Dr J. Stevenson). 
The caves are called Lenen (Lena) 
by the natives, a word used 
throughout India and Ceylon for 
these excavations. Probably they 
were originally hermitages of 
Buddhist ascetics. The island is 
covered with low corinda bushes 
and Tal palms. It consists of two 
long hills, with a narrow valley 
between them. About 250 yards 
to the right of the old landing- 
place, at the S. end of the island 
on the rise of one of the hills, and 
not far Irom the ruins of an 
ancient city, was a mass of rock, 
cut into the shape of an elephant, 
from which the place derives its 
European name In September 
1S14 its head and neck dropped 
ofi, and in 1864 the half shapeless 
mass was removed to the Victoria 
Gardens. 

The modern landing-place, N. W. 
of the island, is not a very conveni- 
ent one, as it consists of a rather^ 
slippery pier of separated concrete 
blocks. The caves are distant 
about ^ m., and about 250 ft. 
above the sea, and are approached 
by easy steps, constructed in 1853 
by a native merchant at a cost of 
Rs.i2,ooo. There is a caretaker's 
bungalow at the entrance, where 
a fee of 4 annas is paid, and tea 
can be obtained ; and visitors car- 
sit and rest. The date of the ex- 
cavation of these ca^v'es ^ is now 
placed about the middle of the 8th 
century, slightly subsequent to 
the corresponding cave at Ellora 
(p. 104). The caves face the X., and 
are open also to the E. and W. 
The main hall was enclosed by two 
wide colonnades of six columns and 
two centre colonnades of four 
columns, the recesses on the N. 
and S. sides consisting of tw^o aisles 

^ Ttmpies p/ India, by Fergusson 

and Burgess, 


separated by two columns, the 
outer aisle being much shorter 
than the inner ; the length of the 
central hall from the pillars at each 
end is 130 ft., and the breadth 
from the wall of the south recess to 
the pillars on the outer side of the 
north recess is just the same. Of 
the twenty-six columns, including 
the sets of two at each entrance to 
the cave, eight have fallen. The 
columns present some variety of 
shape and ornament : they have 
a square shaft rising about half 
the way up a fluted neck, and a 
capital of the shape of a squeezed 
cushion, bound in the middle ; 
the height of the columns varies 
from 15 ft. to 17 ft. 

The Lingam Shrine, at the W. 
end of the hall, stands 4 ft. above 
the floor of the cave. It is ig|- ft. 
square, with four doors facing 
different ways. At the outside of 
each entrance are two large figures 
representing dwarpals or door- 
keepers, who lean on dwarfs. The 
Lingam, a cylindrical stone 3 ft. 
high, the emblem of Siva, is 
worshipped on great occasions by 
cro’wds of devotees. 

On entering the caves the most 
striking feature is the Colossal 
Three-headed Bust, or Trimurti, in 
the S. wall, facing the X. entrance. 
It is 19 ft, in height, and the 
faces are between 4 and 5 ft. 
long. It is the representation 
of Siva, who is the leading char- 
acter in all the groups of the 
cave. The front face is Siva in 
the character of Brahma, the 
creator ; the E. face (spectator’s 
left) is Siva in the character of 
Rudra, the destroyer ; and the W. 
face (spectator’s right) is con- 
sidered to be Siva in the char- 
acter of Vishnu, the preserver, 
holding a lotus flower in his hand. 
On either side of the recess is a 
pilaster with a gigantic dwarpal 
in front of it. 

The Arddhanariswar, or half- 
male half -female Divinity, in the 
first compartment to the E. of the 
central figure (spectator’s left), 



26 


ROUTE I. BOMBAY AND THE ENVIRONS 


India 


here, notably that of Mount Mary, 
held in respect for miles around. 


(2) The Jogeswar Cave lies 2 m. 
N.E. of Andheri Station and can 
be reached by tonga. Dr Burgess 
attributed this Brahman cave to 
the latter half of the 8th century, 
perhaps a quarter of a century 
after the Elephanta Cave, and 
half a century after the Sitaki 
Nahani at Ellora (p. 108). Like 
the former, it has extensive wings 
to the central hall, which has a 
shrine 24 ft. square in the middle, 
with four doors and a large lingam. 
The veranda on the S. side is 120 
ft. long, and has ten columns of the 
Elephanta pattern, while twenty 
more such pillars are arranged in a 
square in the hall. Measured all 
over, the cave is the largest 
Brahmanical excavation known 
after Kailasa (p. 107). 

From Andheri Station, 2 m. \V., 
js the seaside village of Vesava, 
used as a holiday resort for 
Bombay. There are many private 
bungalows, but no other accom- 
modation. A day’s trip should 
include a sea bathe and a visit 
across the creek to Aldeamar 
Fort, first a Portuguese then a 
Mahratta stronghold. 


(3) Cave Temples of Kanheri^ 
(Kennery ). — These caves are all 
excavated in the face of a single 
hill in the centre of the island of 
Salsette The D.B. is at Thana (see 
Route 2). There are one hundred 
and nine Buddhist caves on the 
spot; but, though so numerous, 
few of them only are interesting 
as compared witn those at Ajanta, 
Ellora, or Kadi. It seems pro- 
bable that the greater part of them 

1 Travellers who are able to vicit the 
Caves of Karli and Bhaja, or of Nasik, or 
Ajanta, or Ellora, need not devote time to 
any of the E.xcursions to the Jogeswar, 
Kanheri and Montpezir Cave''. 


were executed by a colony of 
Buddhists, “ who may have taken 
refuge here after being expelled 
from the continent, and who 
tried to reproduce the lost Karli 
in their insular retreat.” They 
date from the end of the 2nd 
century a.d. to about the middle 
of the 9th, or possibly a httle later. 
The great Chaitya is one of the 
earliest here ; those on each side 
may be two centuries later : the 
latest is probably the unfinished 
one, which is the first the traveller 
approaches by the usual route, 
and which dates about the 9th or 
loth century a.d., or is even still 
more recent. However this may 
be, it is at least certain that, to 
use Heber’s words. “ the beautiful 
situation of these caves, their 
elaborate carving, and their 
marked connection with Buddha 
and his religion, render them 
every way remarkable.” 

From Thana a cart or light 
vehicle can proceed 4 m. towards 
the Tulsi lake. From here the 
path is narrow, and winds along 
the sides of rocks, but it is quite 
possible to proceed along it on 
horseback. This route is, how- 
ever, arduous, and not to be 
recommended to tourists. The 
caves are easily visited from 
the Borivli Station of the B.B. 
and C.I. Railway, from which 
they are about 5 m. distant. A 
rough country road, along which 
carts ply, runs to wdthin a mile of 
them. Most of the surrounding 
hills are covered with jungle, but 
the one in which the caves are is 
nearly bare, its summit being 
formed by one large rounded mass 
of compact rock, under which a 
softer stratum has been denuded 
by the rains, forming natural 
caves, W’hich, slightly improved by 
art, were appropriated as cells 
The path runs in a N, direction up 
to the ravine, lying E. and W., 
round which the caves are exca- 
vated on six ledges in the moun- 
tain side connected by flights of 
steps. Shortly before the end of 



ROUTE I. KANHERI AND MONTPEZIR CAVES 


27 




tlie ravine is reached, a steep 
ascent leads up to a platform 
lacing W., where the Great 
Chaitya Cave (No. 3) and two 
other caves are situated, and 
whence steps in the rock lead 
down to the ravine. j 

Cave No. 3, entered through a | 
iorecourt and a veranda, is a I 
copy of that at Karli (p. 462), j 
though much inferior, and pro- 
bably dates from the 6th century. ■ 
It is 86 ft. long and 40 ft. j 
wide, and has a colonnade of | 
thirty-four pillars, which encircles 
the dagoba, standing 16 ft. high, 
at the back. A number of the 
pillars have bases and capitals 
carved with elephants, dagobas, 
trees, worship of sacred feet, etc. 

At the ends of the great veranda 
are two later figures of Buddha, 

21 ft. high, and over the door is 
the great arched window, which 
forms one of the principal charac- 
teristics of these structures. In 
front of the veranda are two pil- 
lars, and on the screen of the back 
w'all are Buddhist carvings. In 
the forecourt are two attached 
pillars, on which are four hons and 
three squat figures. On the left 
of the court is a round cell with a 
tlagoba, and on the right, at the 
end of a long excavation (No. 2), 
are three ruined dagobas, with a , 
Buddhist litany (p. 58) on the | 
rock round them. 

At a distance of 150 yds. up the 
ravine, N.W. of the Chaitya Cave, 

IS the Darbar of the Maharaja Cave 
(No. 10), which was a dharmsala, 
or hall of assembly, and not an 
ordinary vihara. It is 73 ft. x 
32 ft. in size, and has t\vo stone 
benches running down its longer 
axis and some cells on the left and 
back walls. The veranda, which 
IS approached by three flights of 
steps, has eight columns along the 
front of it. Nos. ii, 14, and 21, 
farther up the same (left) side of 
w ravine, may also be visited. 
The first has a small court in front 
( second has some traces 

of painting, and the third has 


columns of the Elephanta type, 
j a Buddhist litany (p. 58), and a 
I figure of Padmapani, crowned by 
: ten adder-heads, in a recess on the 
I right of the porch. Above No. 10 
on the hill-side is No. 35, a vihara 
40 ft. X 45 ft., with benches round 
it, and four octagonal columns in 
the veranda ; on the walls are 
reliefs of Buddha seated upon a 
lotus, of a disciple spreading his 
cloak for him to w^alk upon, and of 
another htany. N.W, from these 
are caves 56 and 66. From the 
front of the former is a fine view^ 
of the sea ; in the latter are some 
fine sculptures and another htany. 
Some 400 yards to the south, and 
beyond the Chaitya Cave, is a 
terrace wnth monuments over the 
ashes of Buddhist monks. The 
number of cisterns and small 
tanks round the caves and the 
flights of steps connecting them 
are remarkable. 

22 m. Borivli station is near the 
I Caves of Montpezir (below^) and 
the ruins of a Jesuit monastery of 
the 1 6th century. To the Caves 
I of Kanhen (see p. 26), 5 m. dis- 
tant, there are two routes — both 
bad — from Thana and Borivli ; 
the latter is the one most used. 

(4) Montpezir Caves {Manda- 
peswar). — B.B. and C.I. Railway 
to Borivli Station, 22|- m. (good 
clean waiting-room), thence i m. 
by tonga. At the caves are a 
ruined Portuguese church and 
Franciscan monastery wdth a cross 
close by. Round the N.E. corner 
of the church are three Brahman 
caves hewn out of the rock, dating 
from the 8th century. The cave 
on the E. is 5 ft. 8 in. x 21 ft. 
Adjoining this cave to the W. is a 
stone basin for water, of which 
there is a good supply, said never 
to fail, and this may be one reason 
why the Portuguese built here. 
The next cave is 27 ft. 3 in. x 
14 ft. 9 in. In the W. wall is a 
group of 25 Gana (celestial dwarfs) 
figures very much mutilated, and 



30 


ROUTE I. BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA 


India 


(3) and (5} ihe Tbal and Bhor 
Ghats. — The ascent or descent of 
these Ghats passes through some 
of the prettiest scenery in all 
India (see pp. 32 and 461) ; and 
those who do not intend to leave 
or reach Bombay by railway trains 
which pass them by day, should 
make a point of visiting them 
separately. The Thai Ghats can 
be seen by a railway trip as far as 
Igatpuri ; the traveller can return 
the same day after taking refresh- 
ment at Igatpuri Station. 

The Bhor Ghats are even finer 
than the Thai Ghats, and should 
not be missed. A visit should be 
paid to Khandala (p. 462) for the 
sake of the scenery, which is some 
of the finest in India. A visit to 
the KarU Cave can be combined 
with a trip to Khandala. It 
should be ascertained whether the 
Calcutta, Madras and Panjab mail 
trains run according to the timing 
in force, passing up or down the 
Ghats in the daytime. 

Malavli. — 85 m. from Bombay ; 
Karli caves 4' m. from railway 
station (see Route 26). 


ROUTE 2. 

BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA by 
Kalyan, Nasik, Manmar. Jalg’aon. 
(Caves of Ajanta), Bhusawal, 
Khandwa, Itarsi, Jubhulpore, 
Katni, Manikpur, Allahabad, 
Mughal-sarai (Benares), Patna, 
Mokameh, Lakhisarai, and 
Asansol, with journeys to 
Pachmarhi, the Marble Eocks, 
Buddh Gaya, and Parasnath. 

Rail 1349 m. (G.I.P.R. and E.I.R.) ; mail 
train 43 hours to Calcutta. 

For service to N. India by this route, 
see p. 135. 

The rule for breaking journeys 
on Indian railways allows the 
traveller to spend sixteen days on 


the journey from Bombay to 
Calcutta Avith one through ticket. 
Cost — ist class, Rs 99, as.i ; 2nd 
class, Rs.49, as.9; and servants, 
Rs.13 as. 7. The 3rd class fare is 
Rs.i6, as. 6, p.6 by the mail trains. 
Luggage — free, 120 lb., 60 lb., and 
30 lb. ; half those figures in seers, 
the Indian standard of weight. 
The 85 m. between Bombay and 
Igatpuri are by far the most 
picturesque on the whole line 
between the Western and Eastern 
capitals. By the Nagpur and 
Pan jab mails passengers now pass 
over this portion of the line in 
daylight ; but the Calcutta mail 
by the E. Indian Railway route 
traverses it at night. 

On leaving Bombay, between 
Sion and Kurla, the railway passes 
on a causeway from the island of 
Bombay to the larger island of 
Salsette. 

9 m. Kurla station. Close by 
(right) are the once famous cotton- 
mills, the first started. The Vehar 
Lake can best be visited by tonga 
from here. 

17 m. Bhandup station for the 
N. shore of the Vehar Lake 
(p. 29). 

21 m. Thana station, D.B., and 
a dharmsala for Indians, An early 
Portuguese settlement, command- 
ing the most frequented passage 
from the mainland to the island of 
Salsette, Marco Polo (1298 ad.) 
says : ** Tana is a great kingdom, 
lying towards the West. . . 
There is much traffic here, and 
many ships and merchants fre- 
quent the place.’’ In 1320 four 
Cliristian companions of Friar 
Odoricus here suffered martyrdom. 
Friar Jordanus narrates that he 
baptized about ninety persons ten 
days' journey from Thana, besides 
thirty-five who were baptized 
between Thana and Supara. 

The country round Thana was 
highly cultivated, and was studded 



ROUTE 2. THANA — KALYAN 


^^th mansions of the Portuguese, 
^\ilen, in 1737, it was wrested from 
them by the Mahrattas. In 1774 
the Portuguese sent a formidable 
armament from Europe for the 
avowed object of recovering their 
lost possessions. The Govern- 
, meat of Bombay determined to 
! anticipate their enterpnse, and 
j to seize upon the island for the 
; English. A force was prepared 
I iindtT General Robert Gordon, and 
I Thana was taken after a siege of 
: three days. On 6th March 1775 
i the Pesl^wa Raghoba, by the 
Treaty of Surat, ceded the island 
of Salsette in perpetuity. In 1S16 
Trimbakji Danglia, the celebrated 
Minister of Baji Rao II., the last 
Peshwa, effected his escape from 
the fort of Thana, though guarded 
by a strong body of European 
soldiers. The difficulties of this 
escape were greatly exaggerated 
nil over the Mahratta country, and 
it was compared to that of Sivaji 
from the power of Aurangzeb. 
The principal agent in this exploit 
''as a Mahratta horse-keeper in 
the service of one of the British 
officers of the garrison, who, pass- 
ing and repassing Trimbakji’ s 
cell, as if to exercise his master's 
horse, sang the information he 
"ashed to convey in a careless 
fanner, which disarmed suspicion. 
Bishop Heber, who had seen Trim- 
hakji imprisoned in the fort of 
Ehunar, was much interested in 
this escape, and writes : — 

“ The groom’s singing was made 
up of verses like the following — 

Behind the bush the bowmen hide, 

The horse beneath the tree ; 

" here shall I find a knight will ride 
The jungle paths with me ? 

There are five^and-fifty coursers there, 
And four-and-fifty men ; 

the fifty-fifth shall mount his steed, 
The Deccan thrives again.’ ” 

The English Church was being i 
ouilt when Bishop Heber arrived, 
^nd on loth July 1825 was con- i 
^ecrated by him. In the i6th 
‘ cntury the Silk Industry here j 
‘-hipioyed about six thousand J 


31 

peroons. It is now beheved to 
be confined to one family. 

33 m. Kalyan junction station 
(R.). Here the Madras line 
through Poona and Raichur 
branches ofi S.E. (Route 26). 
This is a very ancient town, and 
was once the capital of the Chal- 
ukyas. In 1780, the Mahrattas 
having cut ofi the supphes from 
Bombay and Salsette, the British 
Government determined to occupy 
the Konkan opposite Thana as 
far as the Ghats. Accordingly 
several posts were seized, and 
Kalyan amongst them ; and here 
Captain Richard Campbell was 
placed with a garrison. Nana 
Farnavis forthivith assembled a 
large force to recover Kalyan, on 
which he set a high value, and 
attacked the English advanced 
post at the Ghats, and killed or 
made prisoners the whole detach- 
ment. He then compelled Ensign 
Fyfe, the only surviving officer, to 
write to Captain Campbell that, 
unless he surrendered, he would 
put all his prisoners, twenty-six in 
number, to death, storm Kalyan, 
and put all the garrison to the 
sword. To this Campbell replied 
that " the Nana was welcome to 
the town if he could take it.” 
After a spirited defence he was 
relieved by Colonel Hartley, on 
the 24th May, just as the Mahrat- 
tas were about to storm. The 
remains of buildings round Kalyan 
are very extensive ; and Fryer, 
who visited the place in 1673, 

gazed \vith astonishment on 
ruins of stately fabrics, and many 
traces of departed magnificence.” 

Between Kalyan and Igatpuri 
the railway ascends from the 
Konkan to the Deccan plateau by 
the mountain pass known as the 
Thai Ghat. 

59 m. Atgaon station, for Tansa 
(p. 29). 

75 m. Kasara station (R.)., 
930 ft. above the sea. Here a 
special engine is attached, and the 



32 


ROUTE 2. BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA 


India 


steeper ascent of the Ghat begins. 
In gj m. the line ascends 1050 ft. 
higher from Kasara to Igatpuri. 

At 79 J m. was the Reversing 
Station (the Ehegdon Viaduct, said 
to be the highest in India, 190 ft 
above the valley), and the ascent 
terminated at 85 m., Igatpuri 
D.B. (R.), where the special engine 
and brakes were removed, but the 
Reversing Station has not been 
in use since early in 1917, a new 
double track, which avoids the 
necessity of reversmg, having 
come into use then. 

The ascent of the Thai Ghat is at 
ail seasons interesting ; but it is 
most beautiful in September owing 
to the wild flowers. The leaves 
are then bright green, and the 
country below the Ghats is all | 
streams, pools, and inundations, 
and the Ghats themselves ail cas- 
cades and torrents. Igatpuri, 
properly Wigatpura, the town 
of difficulties,” so called on ac- 
count of the precipitous road that 
preceded the railway, is a pleasant 
sanatorium, 2000 ft. above the 
sea, and summer resort of Euro- 
peans from Bombay. There are 
several European bungalows be- 
longing to railway officials. Half 
a mile from the station a pictur- 
esque lake supplies Igatpuri and 
Kasara with excellent water. The 
line passes through a compara- 
tively level country, with low 
mountains on either side, but to 
the south can be seen the peak of 
Kalsubai (5427 ft.), the highest 
mountain in the Presidency, and 
Sivaji’s hill forts of Alang, Ku- 
lang, Aundha, and Patta. 

To the S. of the fine is the lake 
formed by the dam on the Darna 
river, an important irrigation work 
finished in I gi 2. The dam itself is 
2 m. from Aswali station (loi m.). 

1 13 m. Deolali station. A halt- 
ing-place for troops arriving from 
or proceeding to Europe. There 
are barracks for 1000 men. It is 
also a hill-resort much patronised 
by Parsis. 


1 17 m. Nasik Road station 
D.B. The town, the Nastka oj 
Ptolemy, 2000 ft. above sea-level 
(population 33,463), lies 4j- m. 
N.W. of the station. 

A tramway conveys passengers 
from the station to the town. It 
IS one of the most holy places of 
the Hindus, owing to its position 
on the banks of the sacred river 
Godavari, about ig m. from its 
source at Trimbak, and may be 
called the Western Benares, as the 
Godavari is termed the Ganga — 
“ Ganges.” The sacredness of the 
I river is said to have beeif revealed 
by Rama to the Rishi Gautama. 
The Godavari and Ganges are said 
to issue from the same source by 
an underground passage. Thir- 
teen hundred famihes of Brahman 
priests are settled here, and all 
Hindus of rank on visiting it leave 
a record of their visit with their 
Upadhya, or ” family priest,” for 
each noble family has such a priest 
at each celebrated place of pil- 
grimage. In this record are 
entered the names of the visitor’s 
ancestors, and thus the pedigree 
of every Hindu chief is to be found 
in the keeping of these Upadhyas. 
Even Sir Jang Bahadur, (1816- 
1877), formerly de facto ruler of 
Nepal, had his Upadhya at Nasik. 
The present Gaekwar owes his seat 
on the throne to this, for when, in 
1874, the Gaekwar, Malhar Rao, 
was deposed, and an heir sought 
for, the family Upadhya at Nasik 
supphed proofs of the young 
prince’s legitimate de'scent from 
Pratap Rao, brother of Damaji, 
the third Gaekwar. 

At Nasik the nver, here 80 yds. 
broad, is fined on either side for a 
distance of 400 yds. with flights of 
steps, and dotted with temples and 
shrines, and, as in most Indian 
cities situated near flowing rivers, 
the view along the banks when 
hundreds of men and women are 
bathing is extremely picturesque. 
The part of the town which stands 
on the right bank of the river is 
i built upon three hills, and is 



ROUTE 2. NASIK TEMPLES 


33 


di\ided into the New Town N. and 
the Old Town S. The quarter on 
the left bank, where are the chief 
objects of interest, is called Pan- 
chavati. The manufacture of 
brass and copper ware, especially 
of idols, caskets, boxes, chains, 
lamps, etc., flourishes here. Speci- 
; mens of the beautiful old work, 
j though rare, are still occasionally 
; to be found in the ‘‘ old copper 
I bazar. 

‘ The temples at Xasik, though 
picturesque, have no striking 
architectural features. The Sun- 
dar Narayan Temple, built by one 
of Holkar's Sardars in 1725, stands 
at the head of the Ghats on the W. 
side of the city, close to the Sati 
gate and ground, and is a miracle 
ol art. Below it may be seen the 
temples of Balaji and of the WJnte 
^cima, and the Memorial, erected 
to the Raja of Kapurthala, who 
died in 1870, near Aden, on his wav 
to Europe. From it the river is 
crossed by a bridge, completed in 
1S97, which cost Rs. 1 8 1, 000. 

Half a mile to the E , on the 
Panchavati side, is a fine house of 
the Rastia family. From here a 
walk a few hundred yards up a 
lane leads to five very old and 
large trees of the Ftcus indica. 

1 nder the largest is a small build- 
ing. (None but Hindus may pass 
the vestibule.) It consists of a 
low front room, from which steps 
descend to two apartments 5 ft. 
square and 4 ft. high. In the first 
toom are images of Rama, Sita, 
nnd Lakshman. In the second is 
nn image of Mahadeo, 6 in. high, 
which those three personages are 
said to have worshipped ; hence 
arises the extreme sanctity of the 
place, which is quite one of the 
holiest in Nasik, The temple is 
^aid to be Nasik because Laksh- 
^an cut off Surpanakha’s nose 
rhere. This hole is Sita’s Gupha. 

Or Cave, where she found an asy- 
um until lured away by Ravana 
0 Ceylon. Near it is the great 
cmple dedicated to Kala Rama, I 
‘ B^ack Rama,” which cost I 


^7 0,000. It stands in an oblong 
stone enclosure, with ninety-six 
arches. To the W., up stream, 
and just before reaching the river- 
side, is the oldest temple in the 
place, Kapaleswar, ” God of the 
Skull,” a name of Siva. The 
ascent to it is by fifty stone steps. 
It is said to be six hundred years 
old, but is quite plain and un- 
attractive. Opposite to it the 
river foams and rushes in a rocky 
bed. Rama is said to have passed 
his long banishment at Nasik. 
Rama’s Kund is the place where 
the god is said to have bathed ; 
hence it is specially sacred, and 
bones of the dead are taken there 
to be washed away. Opposite to 
it and in the river itself is a stone 
dharmsala, with several arches, 
roofed over, in which ascetics 
lodge when the water is low. 
Down the stream, about 20 yds., 
are three temples erected by 
Ahalya Bai (pp 123-4). The first is 
only a few feet high and long, but 
the next is a large square build- 
ing, with a stone foundation and 
brick superstructure, dedicated to 
Rama ; N. of it is a long dharm- 
sala, and a little down the stream 
is the third temple, all of stone. 
About 200 ft. down the stream 
is Naru Sankar’s temple, with an 
elaborately carved portico and a 
large stone enclosure, the last of 
the temples immediately on the 
water on the Panchavati side. At 
the E. end of the city on the S. 
bank is the hill of Sunar ’Ali, and 
another called Junagarh, or Old 
Fort, on which is a square build- 
ing, in which Aurangzeb’s chief 
officials used to reside. They 
command fine views over the city. 
West of these are the Jami 
iXasjid and the Sarkar Wada, an 
old palace of the Peshwa {Chief of 
the Mahrattas), at present used as 
a school. Its beautiful carved 
woodwork has been removed ; 
there are fine examples of wood- 
work in the town. 

Sharanpur is the seat of the 



ROUTE 2. BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA 


India 


34 

mission founded by the Church 
Missionary Society in 1835, in the 
Junawadi part of Nasik, and 
moved by Mr W. S. Price in 1855. 
There was connected with this 
mission an African Asylum for 
youths rescued from slavery, and 
it was from here that Livingstone's 
Nasik boy>s were drawn. It was ' 
closed in 1875, and Mr Price took 
the boys to the E. coast of Africa, 
where a colony is established for 
redeemed slaves. A new church 
was built here in 1898. 

The group of twenty-three 
Buddhist Caves, called Pandu 
Lena, which vary in age from the 
ist century B.c. to the 2nd century 
A.D., and some of which were 
altered in the 6th or 7th century 
of our era, lie 5 m. to the S.W. of 
Nasik, on the Bombay road. They 
are on the easternmost of the three 
conical peaks which form the ex- 
tremity of the Trimbak range. 
The caves include three large 
viharas or halls, and one fine 
chaitya or chapel, and are exca- 
vated at the back of a terrace 
350 ft. above the level of the plain. 
The path to the cavesd which are 
numbered from W. to E., reaches 
the terrace about the middle of 
them. 

Nos. I and 2 are damaged and 
unimportant. No. 3 is a large 
vihara, measuring 41 ft. by 46 ft. 
and having a stdne bench and 
eighteen cells round the sides and 
end walls. In the veranda, 
behind a decorated screen rail, are 
six octagonal pillars, carrying four 
elephants, or bullocks or horses, on 
their capitals ; and above these is 
a frieze of rail pattern, with a band 
of animals at the bottom of it. 
The sculptured door leading into 

1 The detailed account of these ca\es, as 
well as those of Ajanta, Ellora, etc., is taken 
mainly from the monumental work on | 
the Caz’£ Temples of India, by Fergusson ' 
and Burgess, published by order of the 
Secretary of State for India Those who 
are specially interested in the subject will 
find the original work indispensable. 


the cave resembles the gateways 
of the Sanchi tope (p. 137) ; over 
it are the three Buddhist symbols 
of the Bodhi tree (p. 51), the dag- 
oba or tope, and the chakra or 
wheel of the law, and on each side 
of it is a guardian dwarpal. In 
the centre of the end wall of the 
cave is a large rehef of a dagoba. 
The details of this cave and of 
No. 10 are almost identical, but 
the latter is of much earlier date ; 
the carved screens and rail pat- 
terns in both of them are specially 
noticeable. No. 4 is , another 
damaged cave ; the next five are 
marked only by simple rail or 
other decoration. The vihara 
No. 10 measures 43 ft. by 45 ft ; 
it dates from shortly after the 
Karh Cave (p. 462), and the carv- 
ing in it is much more graceful and 
pleasing than that in the copy of 
it, No. 3. No. II is a small vihara 
with six cells off it ; the chambers 
Nos. 12-14, forming a group, 
were probably once separate, each 
forming a small hermitage. Nos 
15 and 16 are much damaged. 
No. 17 is a smaller vihara, measur- 
ing 23 ft. by 32 ft. The veranda, 
which is borne by octagonal 
columns, with elephants and 
riders, is approached by a flight 
of steps at one end of it and not in 
the centre ; on the wall of the back 
aisle, separated from the cave by 
similar columns, is a large seated 
image of Buddha. No. 18 is the 
Chaitya Cave, the oldest of the 
group, and nearly contemporary 
with that of Karli. The front, 
which is decorated with Buddhist 
railings, dagobas, serpents, and 
chaitya windows, is extremely 
effective ; the elaborate carving 
in the head of the doorway under 
the great window, which is finished 
with a representation of wooden 
beams, simulates the wooden 
framework with which such win- 
dows were once fitted. The in- 
terior measures 39 ft. by 22 J ft. by 
23i fl-, and is divided by two rows 
of five plain octagonal columns 
into a nave and two aisles ; at the 



RO UTE 2 . TRIM B AK — MAN MAR C H ALISGAON 


35 


end of the nave five more columns 
run round the back of a dagoba 
oj ft. high and 5J ft. diameter, 
Xo. 20, at a lower level, is a small 
vihara with six side cells. No. 21 
the third largest vihara, measur- 
ing from 37|- ft. to 44 ft. across 
and 61 ft. deep. The veranda is 
carried by four octagonal columns, 
^ with bell -shaped capitals. On 
either side of the hail are eight 
ceils, and in the end wall are three 
cells and an antechamber, from 
which two more cells open ; all 
three walls are faced by a low 
bench. The antechamber to the 
shrine has two carved columns ; 
I the door of the latter is flanked by 
I two gigantic dwarpals. Inside it 
i IS a colossal seated image of 
Buddha, 10 ft. high, attended by 
two chaiin-hearevs. Nos. 22 and 
23, at the extreme east end of the 
terrace, are both much damaged ; 
the last and No. 2 are IMahayana 
caves, the rest being older Hina- 
yana works. In addition to the 
caves, there are a number of cis- 
terns on the terrace, which afiords 
beautiful views of the country 
round Nasik. 

On the road to Trimhak from 
Xasik {19 m. by road) are several 
stone-faced wells, and at Prayag 
Tirth, on the right of the road, is a 
beautiful tank lined with stone, 
and with stone steps and two small 
pagodas built by Ahalya Bai. 
Xear Anjanneri two conical hills, 
about 900 ft. high, face each other 
on either side of the road. From 
these the hills run in fantastic 
shapes to Trimbak, where they 
form a gigantic crescent from 1210 
fo 1500 ft. high. Below this 
niountain wall, which has near 
the top a scarp of about 100 ft., is 
the small town of about 4000 in- 
habitants. It derives its name 
horn Trt, “ three and Ambak, 
eye,” “ the three-eyed ” being a 
name of Siva. The Fort stands 
1800 ft. above the town, and 4248 
ft. above the sea. The Temple of 
i 'bimbakeswar, which is on the E. 


' side of the town, not far from 
; where the Nasik road enters, was 
I built by Balaji Baji Rao (1740- 
j 1761), third Peshwa. It cost 
I £go,ooo. It stands in a stone 
I enclosure, which has no corridor, 

1 but a portico, which is the music 
I gallery, and is 40 ft. high. The 
i ascent is by steps outside, and 
j strangers are permitted to mount 
I in order to look into the interior 
I of the temple, which none but 
j Hindus may enter. A flight of 
I six hundred and ninety steps up a 
i hill at the back of Trimbak leads 
I to the sacred source of the nver 
I Godavari, where " the water 
I trickles drop by drop from the 
I lips of a carven image shrouded 
^ by a canopy of stone ” into a tank 
! below. This is the sacred bath- 
j ing-place of pilgrims, and is called 
the Kushawart. Bathing is said 
j to cleanse from the worst sins. 
At the S. end is a temple to Siva. 

147 m. Lasalgaon station. From 
this place Chmidor, an interesting 
town overhung by a fine hill-fort, 
is 14 m. N. by a good road. The 
Maharaja Holkar is hereditary 
Patel of Chandor. The fort was 
taken by the British in 1804, and 
again in 1818. 

162 m. Manmar junction sta- 
tion, D.B. (R.)‘ This is the 
junction of the Dhond and Man- 
mar Railway, which forms a chord 
line between the N.E. and S.E. 

; branches of the G.I.P.R., and of 
I the Godavari Valley branch of the 
Hyderabad State Railway to 
Secunderabad (Route 6). About 
4 m. S. are the Ankai Tankai Fort, 
now in ruins, and seven Buddhist 
caves of some interest. Between 
the caves and the station rises a 
I curious hill called Ram Gulni, 
surmounted by a natural obelisk 
of trap rock 80 or 90 feet high. 

204 m. Chalisgaon station, 
branch to 35 m. Dhulia (popula- 
j tion, 30,800), headquarters of the 
; West Khandesh District. There 



ROUTE 2. BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA 


India 


36 

is a good D.B. at Dhulia sufficient 1 
,to accommodate two travellers. 
It is a stage (no m. from Dhulia 
to Kalghat on the Narbada, which 
can be crossed October to June by 
a trestle- bridge, passable to motors) 
on the way to Agra and Delhi 
Petrol can be obtained at Dhulia. 
Dhuha is connected by a motor- 
car service with Nardana on the 
Tapti Valley Railway, 20 m. along 
the Agra road, N. An Inspection 
Bungalow at Kalghat. 

261 m. Jalgaon junction (D.B. 
khansama, and supplies) of the 
Tapti Valley Railway (p, 165), 
and the best station to start from 
for a visit to the Ajanta Caves 
(Route 3) ; is the headquarters 
of the lately-constituted East 
Khandesh District (population, 
1,034,886). It is the richest, 
one of the largest, most populous 
and important in the Bombay 
Presidency. Formerly the haunt 
of aboriginal hill-tribes and wild 
tribes, it has now become a 
prosperous and fertile cotton- 
growing district, with innumer- 
able cotton-gins and presses, two 
High Schools, and many advanced 
institutions. But in the hills 
that enclose it in the N., E. and 
S., the tiger and leopard still roam 
in numbers : bears are to be found 
Sambhar and spotted deer are to 
be shot. The new headquarters 
offices of the District and other 
buildings are fine. There is a 
large cotton-spinning mill in the 
town. A Civil Hospital has been 
buUt by public subscription in 
memory of his late Majesty 
Edward VII. Connected with it 
is a District Nursing Association, 
with a capital. pubUcly subscribed, 
of Rs. 80,000, to supply nurses to 
this hospital and to district 
dispensaries. The Bank of Bom- 
bay has a branch at Jalgaon . 
there is also a Central Co-operative 
Bank, 

276 m. Bhusawal junction sta- 
tion (R.). (A D.B. available with 


permission of the Exec. Engr., E. 
Khandesh ; no servants or sup- 
plies.) An important railway 
colony called into existence by 
the G.I.P.R. works. Population, 
16,363. Junction between the 
G.I.P.R. main line and the Nagpur 
Branch (Route 7). 

North of Bhusawal the railway 
passes between the Satpura and 
Vindhya ranges on the W. and 
the Mahadeo Hills of the former 
on the E. ; these ranges constitute 
the geographical divisions between 
Hindustan (N. India) and the 
Deccan or South- country. 

Amalner junction station, 51 
m. from Bhusawal, 160 m. from 
Surat. (Population, 12,300,) It 
has a High School and an Indian 
Institute of Philosophy, and a 
cotton-mill : an important com- 
mercial centre. 

278 J m. the Tapti Bridge, one 
of the most important works on 
the hne. The first bridge built 
was abandoned in consequence of 
the inferior nature of the stone of 
which it was constructed. The 
present bridge has recently been 
widened and strengthened by the 
G.I.P. Railway Company. 

310 m. Burhanpur station. 
There is a very fine and well-found 
D.B. in the palace, part of which 
has been restored for the purpose. 
Burhanpur is a centre of the gold 
and silver wire industry, the draw- 
ing of which from ingots is an 
interesting operation, and can be 
seen by arrangement. The city, 
which is about 3 m. distant, has 
a population of 32,000 It has 
been a place of much import- 
ance, and is completely walled 
in. The wall was built by Nizam 
Asaf Jah in 1731. The neighbour- 
hood contains some interest- 
ing Muhammadan ruins and a 
curious aqueduct still in use. In 
the town are two handsome 
mosques — the Jami Masjidandthe 
Bibi Mas] id. The Badshahi Kila 



ROUTE 2. CHANDNI — ASIRGARH HARDA 


37 


— ruined citadel and palace — ^is 
beautifull}?- situated on a height 
overlooking the Tapti river. The 
Mughal water- works form, perhaps, 
the most important monument of 
the past glory of Burhanpur. 
They were constructed for the 
most part between i6i8 and 1650. 
The place was founded in 1400 a.d. 
by Nasir Khan of the Farrukhi 
Dynasty of Khandesh, and was 
annexed to the Mughal Empire by 
Akbar in 1600 ad. It was the 
capital of the Deccan Province of 
the empire when in 1614 a.d. Sir 
Thomas Roe, ambassador from 
James I. to “The Great Mogul," 
parsed through, and paid liis 
respects to the Viceroy Prince 
Farvez, son of Jahangir, and it was 
here that Shah Jahan’s wife, the 
“ Lady of the Taj," died in 1629. 
The place was occupied by the 
army under General Welleslev' on 
1 6th October 1803, given back to 
Sindhia the next year, and finallv 
passed to the British in i860. It 
is now British territory. The 
principal handicraft of the towm 
is the production of silk cloth 
embroidered with gold and silver 
lace, which continues now in the 
^ame manner as described by 
Tavernier in 1658. The towm has 
also a spinning and weaving mill, 
and several ginning and pressing 
factories 

322 m. from Bombay is Chandni 
station, about 7 m. by road from 
Asirgarh, a very fine hill fort, a 
conspicuous object from the raii- 
^'ay, standing at an elevation 
of 2300 ft. above sea-level. The 
f^i'fihcations were breached and 
me fort captured on 21st October 
1^503 by Colonel Stevenson, and 
9th April 1819 by the British, 
under General Doveton. Histori- 
cally it is one of the most impor- 
tant forts, being on the main hne 
r ^^^^^i^iidcation with the centre 
India. Until of late years it ; 
Was garrisoned, but the barracks 
all dismantled now, and some 
interesting cannon were removed 


to Nagpur. At certain times the 
fortifications are beset by bees, 
which are very dangerous. A 
conveyance must be arranged for 
from Burhanpur, and it is best to 
visit it from there,* as very few 
trains stop at Chandni. The 
expedition is a very interesting 
but tedious one, and involves a 
climb of well over 1000 ft. The 
fortifications and gateways are in 
a very good state of preservation, 

353 m. Khandwa junction 
station, D.B. (R.). A civil station, 
the headquarters of the district of 
Niniar in the Central Provinces. 
’Khandwa was created a munici- 
pality in 1S67. It has a popula- 
tion of 21,604. The town is sup- 
plied with water from Mohghat 
reservoir, situated at a distance 
of 4 miles. Khandwa is a place 
of considerable antiquity. Four 
kunds or small tanks, wath stone 
embankments, have been con- 
structed round the town in the 
direction of the four points of 
the compass. On the bank of 
each tank is a temple, but only 
one of them is in use. One 
of the temples at Rameswar 
has the appearance of a cave. 
The town has a D.B., constructed a 
few years ago. It has a town hall 
and a Government High School. 
It IS a centre for the export of raw 
cotton, and contains several gin- 
ning and pressing factories. From 
here the metre-gauge system of 
the Bombay, Baroda, and Central 
Indian Railway runs N. to Mhow, 
Indore, and through Western 
Malwa to Ajmer, and thence to 
Agra, Delhi, Ferozepore, and the 
Panjab. (See Routes 8 and 10). 

417 m. Harda station, D.B. 
close to station, good (population 
16,300) Headquarters oi a Sub- 
divisional ^Magistrate, and an 
important mart for the export of 
gram and seeds. Here the rail- 
way enters the great wheat-field 
of the Narbada Valley, which 
extt;riu.s to Jubbiilpore. There 



ROUTE 2. BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA 


India 


38 


is a good road, which leads to 
Indore, crossing the Narbada river 
at Handia. 

464 m. Itarsi junction station, ' 
D.B. (R.) From this the s^'stem 
of the Indian Midland Railway 
runs N. to Hoshangabad, Bhopal, 
Jhansi, Gwalior, Agra, and Cawn- . 
pore (see Route 9). A railway is j 
under construction by the G.I.P. 1 
Co. from Itarsi to Nagpur (p. 114). ! 

It will traverse the small District | 
of Betul, on the Satpura plateau, j 
and join the B.N.R. at Nagpur. 
The section between Itarsi and 
Betul (the District headquarters) 

IS complete, llie line has also • 
been carried Westwards beyond | 
the District border, so as to connect 
with the narrow^- gauge B.N.R 
system , but some years will still 
elapse before the section from 
Amla junction (in Betul District) 
and Nagpur is completed. 

The District is cool but nia- i 
iarious : in the open portion the 
elevation varies from 1500 to 2200 
feet. In the E. and S. the hills 
are much higher, the Kliamla 
plateau m the S.\V^ corner being j 
3787 ft above sea-level. The 1 
open tract lies in -the centre of the ! 
District, and grows wheat as its ! 
chief crop ; surrounding this tract | 
the country is very broken and I 
clad with forest. Streams of 
some merit, notably the Tapti, ! 
have their source at the top of 
the plateau, and find their way 
to the plains below through rocky 
valleys, often of great beauty. I 
The heavy forest in the outlying | 
portions of the district still j 
provides fair big-game shooting, - 
though it has seriously deterior- 
ated in recent years, and is hard ^ 
to reach owing to the broken 
character of the country. The 
small-game shooting is of the 
poorest, far worse than that in 
adjoining LUstricts below the ghats. 

Betul IS connected with Ellich- 
pur, Chhiiidwara, itarbi and Nag- 


pur by metalled roads. Along all 
these roads there are good rest- 
houses, or inspection bungalows, 8 
or 10 m. apart, but they are in 
charge of chaukidars only, and 
visitors must arrange to bring 
their own food and servants with 
them. The only comp'ett D.Bs 
are at Shahpur (on the Itarsi 
road) and at headquarters. 

At Betul there is the usual 
civil population. There is a small 
Club, with a billiard-tablc. and 
golf links. When the railwviy has 
been completed the district will 
be well worth a visit, if only for 
its scenery ; the ghat sections, 
where the line enters and leaves 
the plateau, afford a most pleasant 
prospect, especially at the end of 
the rains or in the early cold 
wmather. 

The only buildings of interest 
are the Jain temples at Muktagin, 
close to the Ellichpur road on the 
Berar border. They are worth 
inspection, but are best reached 
from Ellichpur. Thirty-six per 
cent of the population of the 
District are aboriginals 

505 m. Piparia station. There 
is a comfortable D.B. close to the 
station. A good road leads in 
32 m. S. to Pachmarhi, the hill- 
station of the Central Provinces. 
There are many bungalows at 
Pachmarhi and barracks, which 
are occupied by a musketry class, 
and are available for European 
troops if required. The station is 
3500 ft. above sea -level. There is 
a D B on the w^ay at Singhanama ; 
the ascent from here, w^hich is 
12 m. long, is very pretty. Good 
large-game shooting in the forests 
below the station by special 
arrangements with the Forest 
Department beforehand. During 
the season, and out of the season, 
motor-cars are usually available 
at Piparia ; the mail-contractors 
also supply cars on hire : rates 
generally are Rs. 8 per seat ; other- 
wise tonga transport, which must 
be ordered beforehand from Pacli- 



ROUTE 2. 


JUBBULPORE 


39 


marhi — this also applies to the 
cars. There is a well-found little 
hotel called the Hill Hotel (a con- 
verted D.B.) close to the Club, 
which admits visitors for limited 
periods. The scenery is very fine, 
and there are numerous roads and 
drives leading to view points. 

A visitor would do well to take 
his own motor-car, as the road up 
to Pachmarhi is perfect, and it 
will be very useful on the plateau. 
As the accommodation is strictly 
limited and in great demand 
during the season, it is not safe to 
trust to finding it, without ascer- 
taining beforehand if it is avail- 
able. 

536 m. Gadarwara junction 
^)tation. A railway 12 m. long 
leads S. to the Mohpani coal-mines, 
worked by the Great Indian Penin- 
sula Railway. 

Between 590 m. Bikrampur and 
597 m. Shabpura the railway 
crosses the Narbada river. 

616 m. ’JUBBULPORE station, 
733 m. from Calcutta by Alla- 
habad route (R.). An impor- 
tant civil and military station, 
the meeting-place of the G.I.P. 
and East Indian Railways. A 
new railway line runs to Nainpur 
(whence there are branch lines 
running to Seoni, Chhmdwara and 
Mandla), 69 m. S. of Jubbulpore, 
and 73 m. farther on to Gondia 
junction, on the Bengal -Nagpur 
fine, 61 m. east of Bhandara Road 
(p. 1 1 6). The town is about a 
mile from the railway station and 
di^'ided from the cantonment by 
the railway : conveyances at the 
railway station. 

The town (population, including 
cantonments, 100,651) and station 
are well laid out and well cared 
for. The Victoria Town Hall has 

statue of the Queen Empress. 
There are Protestant and Roman 
Catholic churches, six High 
Schools and two colleges (Robert- 
son College and Training College. 


The former is a fine building near 
the gun-carriage factory). It is 
the headquarters of the Brigadier- 
General of the Narbada District ; 
the garrison is a strong one of all 
arms. 

A mile N.E. of the railway 
station is the Government gun- 
carriage factory. In or near the 
town there are a cotton-mill, two 
pottery works, and a glass factory. 
Close to the railway station is a 
well-furmshed dharmsala, named 
after the late Raja Gokuldass, 
whose statue is placed in front of 
the building. 

In the administration of India 
by the English few subjects have 
created more interest than the 
suppression of the Thags (Thugs), 
a fraternity devoted to the murder 
of human beings by strangulation. 
The principal agent in hunting 
down these criminals was Colonel 
Sleemand and it was at Jubbul- 
pore that a number of Thag infor- 
mers and their families were for- 
merly confined,- and the once 
famous “ School of Industry.” 
now used as a reformatory school, 
was estabhshed in 1835. Origin- 
allv there were 2500 of these people 
in confinement here. Tents, car- 
pets, coarse cloth are made here 
for sale. 

Jubbulpore (1306 ft.) ranks as 
the second city in the Central 
Provinces, and is generally con- 
sidered as the most desirable of 
the plain stations. The soil is 
sandy, and water is plentiful near 
the surface. The station is well 
planted with trees, and the climate 
IS comparatively cool. 

Archisology of the Disirict . — 
At Rupnath, 3 m. from Bahuri- 

1 Culo.iel Sir W. Sleeman s RambL’s and 
RiCoRtctioni of an Ind'an Oint.ai and 
Diaries in Oudh are among the most 
faseiiiating books e\er written uu India. 
Me.idou s d aylor's Conje^uons of a I hits i-' 
the linest of all his works. 

- The 'Fhagi Refoimator\ \va.^ olosed in 
1SS9. 



40 


ROUTE 2. BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA 


India 


band, and about 19m. from Sihora 
railway station, there is a rock 
edict of the Emperor Asoka, en- 
graved about 232 B.c. It is the 
oldest inscription, and the only 
one of its kind, in the Central 
Provinces. 

At Bahuriband (17 m. from 
Sihora) is a Jain statue 12 ft. high. 
This place is beheved to be the 
Tholobana of Ptolemy. Many 
ruins of temples are found here. 
A Sati pillar, dated 1298 a. d., may 
also be seen. 

At Bargaon (6 m. from Salaiya 
station, on the Katni-Bina hne) is a 
temple dating from the 5 th or 6th 
century a.d. A number of other 
ruins — Brahmanical and J ain — 
are about a mile to the west ; on 
the banks of the Katni river are 
more remains. The stones are 
beautifully carved. 

At Bilahri, 8 m. S.W. of Mur- 
wara, images and sculptured 
stones are scattered all about the 
village and built into the houses, 
but few temples now remain. A 
small fort, partly destroyed during 
the Mutiny, may be seen. 

Expedition to the Marble Rocks 
Gorge of the Narbada. 

The Marble Rocks, known to 
natives as Bhera Ghat, which are 
12 m. from Jubbulpore, are well 
worth a visit. Tongas can be 
hired for the trip, and the road is 
first-class metalled. About 4-I m. 
to the W. is a remarkable ancient 
fortress^ of the Gond Kings, 
perched on the summit of a huge 
granite boulder. At 94 m. a 
branch road turns to the rocks, 
the last half m. being often 
impracticable for vehicles after 
rain. On the high ground above 
the lower end of the right side of 
the gorge are two small D.B-s. and 

1 Known as the Madan Mahal. 


a number of houses, and 100 yds. 
beyond the bungalow is a flight of 
107 stone steps, some of them 
carved, which leads to the Madan- 
pMY Temple, surrounded by a cir- 
cular stone enclosure. All round 
it are figures of the sixty-four 
J oginis. Though much mutilated, 
they are well worth a visit. Three- 
quarters of a m. beyond the temple 
hill the Narbada may be reached 
above the gorge at the point where 
its waters plunge down the Dhu- 
andhar or Smoke cascade into the 
cauldron at the upper end of the 
Marble Rocks. In a recess below 
the bungalow is the embarkation 
place for a trip by boat up the 
gorge. Two men to row and one 
to steer are enough. The white 
clifis of magnesian hmestone are 
only 90 ft. to 105 ft. high, but the 
effect of the gleaming faces and 
rifts is extremely picturesque, 
especially under moonlight ; the 
water is said to be 150 ft. deep in 
places. Near the entrance to the 
gorge, which is about i m. long, 
is a spot named the “ Monkey’s 
Leap.” Farther on is ‘an inscrip- 
tion cut on the right side by order 
of Madhu Rao Peshwa, and near 
the end of the gorge are some 
curiously-shaped rocks called the 
Hathi ka paon, or Elephant’s Foot. 
The gorge is closed by a cascade 
! waterfall over a barrier of rocks. 
There are usually large nests of 
wild bees on the rocks, and care 
must be taken not to excite them 
by smoking or firing guns Near 
the landing-place is a memorial of 
a young engineer officer who was 
drowned in seeking to escape the 
attack of infuriated bees. 

673 m. Katni junction station. 
Line S.E. to the coal-fields at 
I U maria, 49 m., and thence to 
Bilaspur on the Bengal-Nagpur 
Railway (p. 119). Line W. to 
Saugor (p. 143). The town is 
famous lor the manufacture ot 
hme.-,tone and the preparation of 
stone slabs. There is also a 
cement factory close to the town. 



ROUTE 2. MAN IKPUR— ALLAHABAD 


41 


734 m. Satna station, a Govern- 
ment D.B. (R.). A town m the 
Rewah. State, also the head- 
quarters of the Baghelkhand Poli- 
tical Agency A good motor 
road runs E , connected with the 
Great Deccan Road (21 m ), 
whence Rewah (31 m.) and Gov- 
indgarh (35 m.) can be reached. 
To the W. is a good motor road 
through the Bundelkhand Agency 
to Jhanbi. Near Satna were 
found the remains of the Bhar- 
hut stupa, removed to the Calcutta 
Museum (p. 83). 

782 m. Manikpur junction 
station. From this place the 
Indian ]Midland line runs W. to 
Jhansi, 181 m. (Route 9 (c)). 

S40 m. Naini station (R.). Close 
by IS the Jail, one of the largest 
in India ; there are also a Leper 
Mission and Asylum here. 2 m. 
farther the line crosses the Jumna 
by a fine bridge, 3235 ft. long (con- 
sisting of fourteen spans of 200 ft. 
and three of 30 ft., which cost 
44i lakhs, and was opened on 
15th August 1865), and enters 

844 m. ALLAHABAD station ^ 
(lat. 25° 26', long. 81"^ 55 J, 514 
m. from Calcutta. The capital 
of the United Provinces (popula- 
tion 171,697) is situated 316 ft. 
above sea-level on the left bank of 
the Jumna, on the wedge of land 
between it and the Ganges, which 
the Curzon Bridge (on the O. and 
R. Railway) and new Bengal and 
R.W. Railway bridge (of the Ben- 
gal and N.W.R. to Jaunpur and 
Benares) cross K. and E. of the 
city. It is the headquarters of the 
General commanding the Allaha- 
bad District, and there is a strong 
garrison. 

The Fort stands near thejunc- 
fion of the two rivers. The Civil 
Station, Cantonments, and City 
stretch \V. and N.W. from this 
point 6 m. The present Fort and 
were buih: by Akbar in 
^583 A.D., but the Aryans pos- { 


sessed a very ancient city here 
called Prayag, which the Hindus 
now call Prag (place of sacrifice). 
It is a very sacred place with them, 
as they believe that Brahma per- 
formed a sacrifice of the horse 
here, in memory of his recovering 
the four Vedas. The town was 
visited by ^legasthenes in the 
3rd century b.c., and in the 7th 
century a.d. Hiuen Tsang, the 
Buddhist pilgrim, visited and 
described it. It was first con- 
quered by the Moslems in 1194 
A.D., under Shahab-ud-din-Ghon 
It received the name of Allahabad 
in 1584 A.D., and was made the 
capital of a Province. At the end 
of Akbar’s reign Prince SaHm, 
afterwards the Emperor Jahangir, 
governed it and lived in the Fort. 
Jahangir's eldest son, Khusru, 
rebelled against him, but was 
defeated and put under the cus- 
tody of his brother Khurram, 
afterwards the Emperor Shah 
Jahan. Khusru died in 1615, and 
the Khusru Bagh (see p 42) con- 
tains his mswisoleum. In 1739 
Allahabad was taken by the Mah-^ 
rattas, w'ho held it till 1750, when 
it was sacked by the Pathans of 
Farrukhabad. It changed mas- 
ters several times, and in Novem- 
ber 1801 it was ceded to the 
British, the Fort having been held 
by them since 1798. 

Allahabad was the seat of the 
Government of the N.W. Pro- 
vinces from 1834 to 1835, when that 
was removed to Agra. In 1858, 
after the suppression of the Mutiny, 
the Queen Victoria’s famous 
Proclamation of ist November, 
assuming the government, was 
read out at Lord Canning's Dar- 
bar. It again became the seat of 
the Provincial Government, of 
which the title was changed to 
that of the United Provinces of 
Agra and Oudh in 1902. The 
present Lieutenant - Governor is 
the Honouiable Sir Harcourt 
Butler, K.C.S.I. Previous Lieu- 
tenant-Governors have been Mi 
Thomason (1843-53), Mr J. R. 



ROUTE 2. BOMBAY TO (’\Lri’TTA 


hidia 


4 ^ 

Colvin [i^5y57), C.eon^c F | 

Edmoubtone (i859'G3), The lit>n 
F Oiumiiiond (1803-0^? Sir Win. 
Muir (1S68-74), Sir J. Strachey 
i''74-76s. Sir G. Couper (1876-82) 
Sir A. Lyall (1882-87), Sir Auck- 
land Cohan {iS<S7-92), Sir C. Cro.s- 
thwaite fiS92-o5h Sir A. (now 
Lord) MacDonnell (1^95-1^01), 
Sir J. La Touclie ' 1901-06), Sir 
J. P. Hewett (1906-1912). and Mr 
Janic^ Mt'ton . 

In the spring of 1S57 the station, 
with Its magniftcent Arsenal and 
strong Fort, was garrisoned by a 
single Sepoy Regiment, the 6th, to 
which, on citEMay, a ving of the 
Ferozepore Regiment of Sikhs was 
added The olheers of the oth 
X.I were confident in the loyalty 
of their corps, but fortunately a 
few da vs later sixty Bnti^h invalid 
soldiers were brought m from 
Chunar. On 5th June most of the 
Europeans in the place moved into 
the Fort, thus adding about luo 
v^olunteers to the garrison. 4 he 
next day the 6th X 1. mutinied 
and murdered their (jrheers and 
seven young ensigns who had been 
posted at Allahabad to learn tlieir 
drill. The eighty men of the 
regiment on duty at the main gate 
of the Fort were at once disarmed 
by a fine display of boldness, the 
400 Sikhs remaining staunch, 
under the influence of their C (J., 
Captain Brasyer, though thev 
wavered for a moment. Outside 
the Fort an^chy reigned in the 
citv — the jail was broken open, 
anil the pri::joners murdered everv 
Christian they met. A Muham- 
madan Maiilvi was put up as 
Governor of Allahabad, and took 
up his quarters in the Khusru 
Bagh On the iith of June 
General Neill arrived in the Fort, 
and on the morning of the 12th 
burned Daraganj and got posses- 
sion of the bridge of boats On 
the same day Major Stephenson, 
with 100 men of the Fusiliers, 
arrived. General Neill then 
scoured the neighbouring villages, 
and produced such a terror in the 


city that the inhabitants deserted 
6)1 masst\ and the Maulvi fled 
to CaMnpore, and on the 17th 
June British authority w'as re- 
establnhed in the city. General 
Flavelock arrived at Allahabad 
on 30th June, and left for the 
relief of Lucknow on 7th July. 

The Kliusru Bagh, close to the 
railway .station, l^ entered on the S. 
5id‘* b\' an old archwav, ncarlv 
60 ft high and 46 ft deep, over- 
grown with creepers Within the 
well-kept garden are three square 
mau^olea. That to the E. is 
tile tomb of iYince Khusru. W. of 
it IS the grave of a sister of his, 
and W. again that of his mother, 
a Rajput lady. They are shaded 
by some fine tamarind trees The 
mausoleum of Khusru has been 
very hand^iomc inside, and 
ornamented with manv Persian 
couplets, and wTth paintings ol 
trees and flowers, which are now 
faded. The cenotaph of white 
marble is on a raised platform, 
wTthout inscription To the right 
and left tw’o of Khusru’s sons are 
buried All three mausolea ha\'- 
recently been put into a thorough 
state of conservation. 

E of the gardens is the native 
city, containing some picturesque 
corners- On the other side of the 
railwa}' lies Canning Town, the 
older European quarter, laid out 
among'jt a network of wide 
avenues. The new High Cou* t 
and Ail Saints' Cathedral, a fine 
1 3tii - century Gothic structure, 
225 ft long by 40 ft. broad, built 
of red and white stone are near 
the raihvay station. The throne 
IS a memorial of Bishop Johnson 
of Calcutta and Metropolitan of 
India (1876-9S). There are mem- 
orial windows of Sir John Wood- 
burn. Lady Muir, C J. Connell, 
and others. Trinity Church lies 
N E. of the Alfred Park (made in 
honour of the Duke of Edinburgh^ 
visit in 1 8 70). It contaIn‘^ a 
tablet, w'hich is valuable as a 
historical record of those who 






ROUTE 2. MEMORIALS— FORT— AKSHAI EAi 


43 


. ' in the iNlutiny. The 

Roman Catholic Cathedral, in the 
itaban \V. of the Alfred 

Park, and near it are the Club, the 
Mayo Memorial Hall, and the 
New Ifniversitv Buildings, There 
IN also the Maepherson Park in 
Cantonments 

In the Alfred Park is also the 
Taornhiil and Mayne Memorial, 
^\lth a hue public Library 
Beyoinl the park is the Govern- 
ment Hou^e, and to the X of 
the Alfred Park is the IVIuir 
College, a fine building in the 
Saracenic stvie. Close by to the 
\\’ IS the Ma\o Metnonal Hall, a 
fine structure, with a tOMer 147 
It high. The Empress \hctona 
m<*morial statue, al-o in the Alfred 
I \i rk, is a seated marble figu re under 
a cjtone canopv. It is intended that 
the V P. Memon.il of King Ldwar<l 
shall take the form of a hospital 
for consumptives in the hills 

i'he Fort, built by Akbar in 
‘5^3 A n , forinN a striking obiet t 
from the river, but its “ high towers 
have been cut down, and the stone 
ramparts topped with turfed para- 
pets, and 1 routed with a sloping 
glacis." The changes rendered 
necessary by modern iniiitary 
exigencies have greatly detracted 
from its picturesqueness as a relic 
of antiquity, 'fhe principal gate- 
wav IS capped with a dome, and 
has a wide vault underneath it 
It IS a noble entrance. The Malls 
are Irom 20 tt to 25 ft. high; below 
them IS a moat, which can be rilled 
with water at any time. Within 
the enclosure lie the officers’ quar- 
ters, powder magazine, and bar- 
racks. Access to the 2 enana 
building of the old Palace, though 
enclosed by the Arsenal, is now 
possible, thanks to the care of 
Lord Cnrzon, by permission ot the 
Local Military Authority. " A 
square hall, supported by eight 
rows of columns, eight in each 
row, thus making in all sixt\ -four, 
surrounded by a deep veranda of 


double columns, with groups of 
four at the angles, all surmounted 
by bracket capitals of the most 
elegant and richest design, and 
altogether as fine in style and as 
rich in ornament as anything in 
India " ' The building has now 
been put into a thorough state of 
repair, and the wooden excres- 
ea nces which formerly almost en- 
tirely concealed it have been 
removed 

Asoka's Pillar. — In front of the 
gateway inside the Fort is the 
Asoka iTllar, which rises 35 ft. 
above ground It is of stone, 
highly polished, and is of much 
interest on account of its great 
antiquitv It was found lying on 
the ground in the Fort in 1837, 
and was then re-erected. On it 
are inscribed the famous Edicts of 
Asoka (I'-sucd about 242 B.c.), and 
aLo a record of the victories (about 
440 A.D.) of Saniudragupta {circ. 
320-373 A.D ), and one by Jahan- 
gir (1603-27), to commemorate his 
..ccession to the throne. There 
are al.so minor inscriptions, begin- 
ning almost from the Christian 
era According to Mr James 
Prmsep, w*ho deciphered this and 
other Asoka inscriptions in 1S3S 
(p. the insertion of some of 
these inscriptions shows that the 
pillar was lying, on the ground 
wdien they were cut. 

The Aiishai Bat (Vata) or un- 
dying* banyan.— Pliuen Tsang, the 
Chinese pilgrim of the 7th century 
(629-43 A D.), in describing Pravag, 
gives a circumstantial description 
of the un decaying tree. In the 
midst of the city he says, stood a 
Brahinamcal temple, to which 
the presentation of a single piece 
of money procured as much merit 
as that of a thousand pieces else- 
where Before the principal room 
of the temple w*as a tree sur- 
rounded by the bones of pilgrims 

' f* Ind.u^: /v<i t'cVW .-*9 1 //.■- 

Ui b\ j. Fer'; J. tJurges.s, and K. 

F. Spie!is, 2^'^. 



44 ROUTE 2. BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA India 


who had sacrificed their lives 
there. 

The tree is situated under the 
wall of the Palace, and is reached 
by proceeding straight on from 
the pillar. Close by is a deep 
octagonal well flanked by two 
vaulted octagonal chambers. A 
few steps lead to a dark under- 
ground passage, which goes 35 ft. 
straight to the E., then S. 30 ft. to 
the tree. As no tree could live in 
such a,3ituation, the stump is no 
doubt renewed from time to time. 
There are some idols ranged along 
the passage. In the centre of the 
place is a lingam of Siva, over 
which water is poured by pilgrims. 
General Cunningham, in his 
Ancient Geography of India, gives 
an interesting sketch of the pro- 
bable changes in the locality, and 
concludes : “I think there can be 
little doubt that the famous tree 
here described is the well-known 
Akshai Bat or undecaying ban- 
yan tree, which is still an object 
of worship at Allahabad.’' 


The ramparts at the N.E. side of 
the Fort afford a fine view of 
Tribeni Ghat, the Confluence of the 
Ganges, which is m. broad, 
flowing from the N., with the 
Jumna, ^ m. broad, flowing from 
the W., and the Saraswati. The 
Ganges is of a muddy colour, the 
Jumna is bluer. The Magh Mela, 
a rehgious fair of great antiquity, 
to which Allahabad probably ow^es 
its origin, occurs every year about 
the month of January. On the 
chief day, called the Amawas, of 
the fair, about 1,000,000 pilgrims 
bathe, in ordinary years, at the 
confluence of the sacred rivers : 
at the Kumbh Mela, held every 
twelfth year, the number of 
bathers on the Amawas day is 
between 3,000,000 and 4,000,000. 
On ordinary days the attendance 
would, in ordinary years, be 
perhaps 20,000 : m the Kumbh 
year it might be 200,000 : but 
the figures vary greatly on festival 


days, according to the importance 
of the latter. 

The Akbar Band runs N.E. from 
the Fort to Daraganj. Here the 
Bengal and N.W. Railway crosses 
the Ganges by a fine bridge of 40 
spans of 150 ft. each, to Jhusi, and 
runs 73 m. to Benares. Beyond the 
old Cantonment the railway fine 
to Jaunpur, Fyzabad, and Luck- 
now (p. 374) crosses the Ganges 
by the fine Curzon Bridge. 

W. of the Fort is the Minto Park, 
with the memorial (1910) of the 
Royal Proclamation of the as- 
sumption of the rule of India by 
the British Crowm on ist Novem- 
ber 1858. It consists of a stone 
Idt, with medallions of Queen Vic- 
toria and the late King Emperor 
Edward VII.. surmounted by four 
lions bearing the Impenal coronet. 
Farther W. up stream of the 
Jumna Bridge is the Ewung 
Christian College of the American 
Ihesbyterian Mission . 

At Allahabad several Enghsh 
and vernacular new^spapers are 
pubhshed ; of these the Pioneer is 
one of the best newspapers inindia. 

There are roadways on the 
E.I.R. and O. and R. Railway 
bridges, by which motors can pass. 
The bridge on the Bengal and 
N.W.R. to Fyzabad and Benares 
has no provision for road traffic. 
The old road to Rewah and Jub- 
bulpore is metalled only up to 
the tenth mile. There are several 
petrol shops in Allahabad, and 
motor cars can be repaired. 

The following routes can be 
taken by motors from Allahabad ; 
(i) To Benares, 78 m., and 45 ni! 
on to Ghazipur , (2) to Jaunpur, 
57m,, and 44 m. on to Mirzapur ; 
(3) direct to Mirzapur, 57 m. 

Bhita is II m. by road S.W. of 
Allahabad, and on the opposite 
side of the Jumna. Both Deoria 
and Bhita contain archceological 
remains of considerable import- 
ance, which probably mark tlie 
site of an ancient city extending 
from the river bank' inland lor 



ROUTE 2. BHITA 


about half a mile in a curved line 
to Bhita.^ Recent excavations, 
conducted by Sir J H. Marshall, 
Director - General of Archaeology, 
show that this was the site of a 
settlement from prehistoric ages, 
and that it was a fortified city 
from the Mauryan (321-184 b.c.) 
down to the Gupta (320-455 a.d.) 
epoch, when it appears to have 
been deserted and given over to 
the neighbouring jungle tribes, 
^\ho were still in the neolithic state 
of culture. The city is surrounded 
by an earthen embankment sur- 
mounted by a brick wall, some 
II ft. in thickness, which was 
strengthened by bastions on the 
Outer side and by guard-houses 
within. The circuit wall seems to 
have been pierced by three gate- 
ways — one on the west and one in 
the middle of the north-east and 
south-east sides. Arrow-heads oi 
iron, and numerous sling or cata- 
pult balls of stone, marble, and 
earthenware have been found 
within the walls, the balls ranging 
in dates from the 7th or 8th cen- 
tury B.c. to the later Gupta 
period (455-606 a.d.). Nearly all 
the interior of the fort which has 
so far been excavated is occupied 
by bazars and houses of con- 
siderable size divided up into 
well-defined blocks by roads and 
narrow alleys. The most modern 
of the buildings belong to the 
later Gupta epoch, and are char- 
acterised by the smallness of their 
rooms and the poorness of their 
construction. Below these come 
structures of the early Gupta or 
Kushana (45-225 a.d.) period, 

which are largely constructed out 
of the remains of earlier structures. 
The latter, forming the third 
stratum, belong to times preceding 
fhe Kushana dynasty ; while the 
fourth and the lowest series of 
houses belongs to the epoch of 
the Maury as. In the debris of 
each of these strata numerous 
small antiquities have been found, 

A.S.R., iii. 47, x. 5; J.A.S.B., 1874, 

P- 100 . 


45 

I including coins seals, sealings, 
I jewellery, terra-cottas, and stone 
‘ sculptures, which clearly and 
' accurately define the successive 
I periods of occupation. Before 
the Mauryan epoch kiln-burnt 
j bricks do not appear to have been 
extensively used on this site, 
though here and there small frag- 
ments of walls testify to their 
manufacture being understood for 
tw'o or three centuries previously. 
Floors of well-made concrete and 
of burnt clay, on the other hand, 
occur in the lower strata, which 
must go back some seven hundred 
or eight hundred years at least b c , 
and associated with them are 
well-made vessels of grey and red 
pottery (frequently covered with 
a black metallic glaze), terra-cotta 
figurines, roof finials, and the 
like, which prove that even in those 
early ages the culture represented 
here was considerably advanced. 

The brick buildings of the 
Mauryan and subsequent epochs 
are singularly well preserved, 
standing in some cases to a height 
of 10 or II ft., in spite of the 
fact that their walls are mainly 
built of a single thickness of brick 
laid in mud, and they are invested 
with particular interest as the 
first examples of complete domes- 
tic dwellings which have been 
excavated in India. Those of the 
Mauryan and Kushana period 
contain on an average about 
twelve rooms on the ground floor, 
ranged on the four sides of an 
open courtyard, with what ap- 
pears to have been a covered 
veranda along one side, and one 
or more passages between the 
chambers giving access to the side 
streets. One of the corner rooms 
was utilised for stores or treasure, 
a deep chamber being sunk below 
the floor to a depth of as much as 
30 ft. The walls of private houses 
which face the main street were 
not pierced with doors or windows, 
but presented a blank face on the 
ground floor and a solid projec- 
tion, some 4 ft. thick or more, was 



ROUTE 2, BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA 


India 


46 


added in front of them for the 
purpose of strengthening the walls 
or of carrying a veranda above. 
The upper storeys were no doubt 
constructed largely of wood, and 
have completely disappeared ; but, 
judging from the foundations, it 
may be surmised that they were 
confined to one side of the house 
only. The roofs were protected 
with terra-cotta tiles and orna- 
mented with pinnacles of the same 
material, from which it may be 
assumed that they were pitched 
at an angle and not flat. A 
feature of some interest in the 
plans of these houses is their 
obvious similarity to the monas- 
teries of the Buddhists, which we 
may now presume were copied 
from the domestic dwellings of 
the time. The shops, it may be 
added, consist of single rows of 
chambers facing the street, with 
a raised platform in front, such 
as are commonly seen in the 
bazars of to-day. 

Among the antiquities recovered 
from these remains the most 
noteworthy are — seals of ivory, 
bronze, and stone, and seahngs of | 
clay, which furnish us with the I 
names of the householders and of I 
the places and people with whom 
they were in correspondence ; 
coins of the Kushana Emperors of 
the North, of the Andhras of the 
South, and of the kingdoms of 
Avanti, Kausambi, and Ayodhya ; 
terra-cotta statues and figurines, 
well-finished in colour, which por- 
tray in detail the costumes of 
the time ; copper and earthen- 
ware vessels of manifold shapes 
and various fabrics ; goldsmiths’ 
utensils ; toilet boxes of steatite 
and marble, personal ornaments 
of many kinds ; to which may be 
added also a number of celts and 
stone implements belonging to 
the jungle tribes referred to above. 

The trains to Calcutta run back 
across the Jumna to Naini, and 
thence to Mirzapur. 

891 m. from Bombay, 458 m. 


i from Calcutta, Mirzapur station. 
! D B. and P.W. Inspection build- 
I ing ; no hotel, petrol, or repair 
shops. An important, well-built 
’ city. Population, 32,332 in 1911 ; 
j by a later census, 55,304. Before 
I the opening of the East India 
I Railway it was the largest mart 
j on the Ganges for grain and 
cotton ; but much of the trade is 
now diverted elsewhere. There 
are excellent sandstone quarries 
near, on which Government levies 
a royalty- Mirzapur is still noted 
for its brass industry, and for its 
carpets and rugs, dyed with old 
native vegetable dyes, which are 
very permanent. Shellac is pre- 
pared from stick-lac at eighty 
factories- There is a handsome 
river front, with fine ghats and 
temples, containing some beautiful 
, carvings. The Civil Station is to 
j the N.E. of the city. The Deccan 
' Trunk road from Nagpur and 
Jubbulpore ends at Mirzapur, 
which is 242 m. from Jubbulpore 
and 102 m. from Rewah. This 
road is described as fit for careful 
slow motoring in the cold weather. 
Mirzapur to Jaunpur, 44 m ; to 
Allahabad, 57 m. 

439 m. from Calcutta, Chunar 
(population about 10,000) has a 
famous old Fort commanding 
the Ganges The Emperor 
Humayun (1530-56) took it in 
1537. "but Sher Shah Sur, the 
Afghan, recaptured it shortly 
after, and strengthened himself 
against Humayun. The British 
gained it after the battle of Buxar 
i in 1764. It was to this fort that 
; Warren Hastings retreated from 
I Benares in 1781, after Raja Chait 
I Singh’s rebellion. 


419 m. from Calcutta, Mughad- 
sarai junction station (R.) for 
Benares Cantonment station, lo m. 

! distant (Route 4), across the 
I Ganges, crossed bv the Dufierin 
steel bridge, nearly J m. long. 
From Mughalsarai some of the 



ROUTE 2. 

express trains to Calcutta now ; 
follow the Grand Chord route 
through Gaya to Asansol. The j 
principal stations passed on the 
Grand Chord Une are 63 m. 
Sasaram (p. 52), 77 m. Sone-East 
Bank (branch of 80 m. to Dalton- 
ganj), 127 m. Gaya (p. 50), 204 m. 
Hazaribagh Road, 232 m. Gomoh 
junction for the Bengal Nagpur 
Railway, and 287 m. Asansol 
(p. 54). From Dehri-on-Son there 
runs a light railway to the foot of 
t]ie hills, where there is a station 
called Rohtas, the nearest railway 
station to Rohtas garb, the famous 
fortress of the Emperor Slier Shah 
{1540 A.D.), which is well worth a 
Visit, From Hazaribagh Road 
the civil station of that name is 
about 35 m. distant. Before 
reaching Chausa (983 m ) the 
E.I.R, crosses the Karamnasa R. 

(“ destroyer of merit ”), which 
divides the U.P. from Bihar and 
Orissa. It is believed that the 
water of this river, if it wets the 
feet of returning pilgrims, washes 
away all the merit gained by 
bathing in the Ganges at Benares. 

41 1 m. from Calcutta, Buxar 
station, D.B., famous for the 
great battle won on 23rd October 
1764 by Major Hector Munro 
against the Nawab Wazir of 
Oudh, Shuja-ud-daula, a battle 
■which, more than Plassey, secured 
the English possessions in Bengal. 

It was desperately contended, and, 
while 850 were killed and wounded 
on the English side, the enemy 
lost over 2000 in killed alone, and 
ys guns, and their whole camp. 
Buxar is also of interest as a place 
of pilgrimage, where King Ram 
Chandra of Ajodhya is said to 
have crossed the Ganges on liis 
Way to Mithila (Darbhanga Bis- 
ect) for mamage. Here, it is 
believed, he killed a great demon- 
OSS named Tarka : the place is 
Visited by a large number of 
pilgrims. Between Buxar and 
^rah, and about 3 m. from Rag- 
hunatpur. there is a temple of 


BUXAR ARRAH 47 

Siva, where a very large fair is 
held Bvice a year. 

368 m. from Calcutta, Arrah 
station, D.B. There are inspec- 
tion bungalows at many plages 
all over tlie District, available 
for travellers on payment of 
R.i a day. The special interest 
that attaches to this • spot 
centres round the defence of 
the “ little house at Arrah 
against the mutinous soldiers of 
Dinapore. The garrison of that 
place in May and June 1857 
consisted of the 7th. 8th, and 40th 
Regiments of Indian Infantry, one 
company of European, and one 
company of Indian Artillery, and 
Her Majesty's loth Foot, under 
the divisional command of Major- 
General Lloyd. On 26th July the 
N.I. troops mutinied and made off 
for Arrah, unpursued, as in the 
case of the Meerut mutineers. An 
unsuccessful attempt was made on 
the 27th to send troops up the 
river, and later, on the 29th, a 
small body of three hundred and 
forty- three Europeans and seventy 
Sikhs was despatched to Arrah by 
steamer, under Captain Dunbar, 
but was compelled to fall back the 
next day after having been caught 
in an ambuscade between the 
river bank and that place, only 
fifty men and three officers return- 
ing unwounded. For heroic con- 
duct in this attempted relief the 
V.C. was conferred upon two 
volunteers of the Bengal Civil 
Service, Mr Don ell and Mr Ross 

Mangles. Private Dempsey, of the 
loth, also won the same reward of 
valour by his brave conduct on 
this and on subsequent occasions. 
Meanwhile Major Vincent Eyre, 
of the Bengal Artillery, who had 
previously passed up the river to 
Buxar, had also learned of the 
attack on Arrah, and on 30th July 
advanced with one hundred and 
sixty men of the 5th Fusihers, and 
forty Artillerymen with three 
guns, to the relief of the place, 
which lay 48 m. from him. On 



48 


ROUTE 2. BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA India 


the 1st August he had a severe | 
engagement with the enemy at ‘ 
Bibiganj, 4 m. to the W. of Ai'rah . 
town, which was only decided t 
by a resolute bayonet charge ; and j 
on the morning of the 3rd he | 
efiected the rescue of the Arrah I 
garrison. The little house at ! 
Arrah, which had been prepared 
and provisioned for defence by 
Mr Vicars Boyle, engineer of the 
railway then under construction, 
had on that date been held for a 
week by twelve Englishmen, sup- 
ported by fifty of Rattray's Sikhs, 
against a body of two thousand 
mutineers and a large mob. The 
attack was commenced on 27th 
July, but the garrison, under the 
Magistrate - Collector, Herewald 
Wake, and Mr Boyle, met the 
assailants with so heavy a fire that 
they speedily fell back to the shel- 
ter of trees. On the 28th and 29th 
the enemy subjected the house to a 
continuous fire of miscellaneous 
missiles from two old guns, one of 
which was finally placed on the top 
of the larger adjoining house. On 
the 30th an efiort was made to 
burn the defenders out, but this 
failed ; and an attempt to mine 
the house was not carried to com- 
pletion before the relief took place. 
Towards the end of the attack the 
provisions of the garrison began 
to fail, and they were obliged to 
sink a well 18 ft. deep inside the 
house to provide themselves with 
water. The house, which stands 
in the compound of the Judge, has 
been converted into an historical 
monument by Lord Curzon. It 
is nearly a square, and has two 
storeys, with a veranda on three 
sides, supported by arches, which 
the besieged filled up with sand- 
bags. The lower storey, which is 
little over 10 ft. high, was held by 
the Sikh soldiers. 

Arrah is on a branch of the Son 
Canal, the great irrigation work 
of South Bihar. A light railway 
from Arrah to Sasaram connects 
the Chord Line with the Grand 
Chord Line. 


344 m. from Calcutta, Dinapore 
Cantonment. 


338 m. from Calcutta, Bankipore 
junction station,* (R.), P.B. (six 
rooms and a central haU, close to 
the railway station, on the road 
to the Government House), the 
headquarters of the Lieutenant- 
Governorship of Bihar, Chota, 
Nagpur, and Orissa, and of the 
Patna district, and forming the 
western extremity of the city of 
Patna (station 6 m. farther E., 
136,153 inhabitants, called by 
the natives Azimabad), which 
covers 10 sq. m , and with its 
suburbs extends 9 m. along the S. 
bank of the Ganges. The Chajju 
Bagh House, occupied by the 
Commissioner of Patna during the 
Mutiny, is now the Government 
House. The ancient city of Pata- 
liputra (the Pahbothra of the 
Greeks), on this site, the capital 
of Chandra Gupta (321-297 b.c.), 
Bindusara (297-272 b.c.), and 

Asoka (272-231 B.c.), extended 10 
m. along the river and 2 m. inland 
from the river bank. The modern 
Bankipore contains nothing of 
much interest to the traveller, 
except a building called the Gola, 
which was built for a granary m 
17S6 “for the perpetual prevention 
of famine in these Provinces," but 
has never been used for that 
purpose, and only temporarily for 
the storage of grain. It is 426 ft. 
round at the base, built of masonry, 
with walls 12 ft. 2 in. in thickness* 
the interior diameter being 109 ft! 
It is about 90 ft. high, and might 
contain 137,000 tons. Inside 
there is a most wonderful echo, 
the best place to hear which is in 
the middle of the building. As a 
whispering gallery there is perhaps 
no such building in the world. 
The faintest whisper at one end 
is heard most distinctly at the 
other. As a curiosity, if for no 
other reason, the building should 
be kept up. The ascent to the top 
is by steps outside. Sir Jang 



ROUTE 2. PATNA — MOKAMEH 


49 


Bahadur of Nepal rode a pony up 
the steps outside to the top. 

East of the Gola (a mile or more 
distant) is the fine building of the 
Patna College, and 3 m. E. of it 
again the Gulzarbagh quarter, in 
which the great opium manufac- 
tory and storehouses were situ- 
ated. The Har-Mandir is a shrine 
specially revered by the Sikhs as 
the birthplace of Guru Govind 
Singh. There is a convent at 
Bankipore near the Civil Court 
Buildings, and the St Michael's 
School, at Kurji, is at the fourth 
mile of the Bankipore- Dinapore 
road. There are a PubUc Library, 
Young Men’s Institute, and a 
General Hospital. In the city of 
Patna, at Gulzarbagh, is the 
Duchess of Teck’s Hospital. The 
Government Press has been 
located in the old opium factory 
buildings at Gulzarbagh. 

In the city proper, 5 m from 
the Gola, and on the right side of 
the road near the Roman Cathohc 
church, is the grave of the sixty 
Enghsh captives ^ murdered by 
Mir Kasim and Samru (p. 294) on 
6th October 1763 — a massacre 
avenged by the storm of the place 
exactly a month later. 

Until its recent abohtion Patna 
formed, with Ghazipur, the two 
agencies by which the Government 
monopoly of Bihar and Bengal 
opium was worked. This opium 
has been famous from time almost 
immemorial, and was for many 
years one of the principal sources 
of income of the E.I. Company. 
The area under poppy cultivation 
in Bihar was greatly reduced in 
late years under the recent agree- 
ments with China in 1907 and 1911 
for the abolition of the use of the 
drug in that country. The Patna 
Opium agency has been abolished, 
^nd the Gulzarbagh opium factory, 
m Patna, was closed in December 
1911. Under the later agreement 

J One of these, H. Lushington, aged only 
who had already escaped from the lUack 
Hole, slew three of his murderers before he 
o\ erpowered. 


j 44,600 chests of “ provision ” 

1 opium were exported in 1911, of 
I which 30,600 w^ere certified for 
* admission into China, the remain- 
, ing 14,000 being exported to other 
! countries. The number of chests 
; exported to China wa-^* to be 
i gradually reduced until all export 
I ceased in 1917. This arrangement 
1 has been carried out, China could 
i claim this consummation by an 
! earlier date if she could show that 
j her native production of opium 
I had been eflectively suppressed 
i throughout the country. The 
i cultivation, as it still obtains in 
; the Ghazipur agency, is carried 
' out by a system of annual engage- 
j ments and advances. The crop is 
sown in November and matures in 
February. The cultivation pro- 
ceeds on the following lines : “ The 
best soil for growing is loam, so 
i situated that it can be highly 
I manured and easily irrigated. 

■ The seed is sowm in November, 
i Several waterings and wreedings 

are ordinarily necessary before the 
plant reaches maturity in Febru- 
ary. After the plant has flowered, 
the first process is to remove the 
petals, which are used as coverings 
for the opium cakes. The opium 
is then collected by scarifying the 
capsules and scraping off the 
i exudation next morning ” 

! Bankipore is the junction for 
j the Digha Ghat Branch ; for 
I the Bengal and N.W. Raihvay 
! leading to Oudh ; and the Patna 
I Gaya Railway, S. (see next 
i page 50). 

I 282 m. from Calcutta, Mokameh 
j junction station (R.). Line to 

■ the N., joining the Bengal and 
' N.W. Railway. To the E, the 
1 loop Une of the East Indian Rail- 

way, which leaves the main line 
i at {262 m.) Lakhisarai junction 
station, runs along the banks of 
i the Ganges viLt Jamalptir, Sahih- 
I ganj, and Tinpahar to Khana (see 
P* 55) » where it rejoins the main 
I hne. 


D 



50 


ROUTE 2. BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA 


India 


138 m. from Calcutta, Madhu- 
pur junction station (R.) of the 
Giridih Line 


Expedition to GAYA. 

57 m. from Bankipore. 

The journey will chiefly repay 
the archseologist or the student of 
Buddhism. The district of Gaya, 
which was included within the 
ancient kingdom of Magadha, 
contains many places of great 
sanctity. The name Gaya is 
said to have been the name of 
an Asura, or giant demon, so holy 
that all who saw or touched him 
were admitted to heaven. The 
rocky hills which run out far 
into the plains of the Ganges 
Valley teem with associations, 
remains, sculptures, images 
and sites of the religion of 
Buddha, many of which have 
been diverted to new objects 
by modern superstition. 
There is a so-called Gaya black 
stone, of which ornaments, 
bowls, and figures of gods and 
animals, often purchased by 
visitors, are carved. The 
Bara bar Caves, 16 m. north of 
Gaya, are considered to be 
among the oldest Buddhist 
monuments in existence. At the 
present day the chief pilgrims 
to the temple and sacred tree at 
Buddh Gaya are Buddhists from 
Tibet, Burma, and Ceylon, and 
devout Hindus from all parts of 
India, who come to pray for the 
souls of their ancestors in purga- 
tory, as part of the general course 
of pilgrimage of which Gaya is 
the centre. There is a lengthy 
legend to the efiect that Vishnu 
promised that the rock on which 
the old town now stands should 
be known as Gaya~k$hettra, and 
that whoever ofiered funeral 
cakes and performed the funeral 
ceremonies there should be 


translated with their ancestors 
to the heaven of Brahma : 
hence the peculiar sanctity of 
the locality. The Hindu pilgrim, 
before leaving his home, must 
w'alk five times round his native 
village, calling upon the souls 
. of his ancestors to accompany 
I him on his journey. There are 
! forty-five places within an area 
j of 35 sq. m. at which the pilgrim 
I should offer funeral cakes, but 
they usually visit only seven 
and often only three of the 
forty-five. Arrived at Gaya, he 
is forthwith placed in charge of 
a special Brahman guide, with 
whom he makes the pilgrimage 
of the place, and he has to bathe 
in the sacred streams of the 
Phalgu and the Punpun : nearly 
90 per cent, of the population 
are Hindus. 

Gaya, 4: 2 D.B. (which supply 
reasonably sufficient accommoda- 
tion. There is[a refreshment room 
at the station) 292 m, from Cal- 
cutta, is a city of 70,423 inhabi- 
tants. It is on the Grand Chord 
E.I, Railway from Calcutta to 
Moghalsarai, and also connected 
with the mainline E.I. Railway, 
by the S. Bihar Railway to Lak- 
hisarai and the Patna-Gaya Rail- 
way to Bankipore- Being an 
important centre of Hindu pil- 
grimage, it is visited by about 
300,000 pilgrims yearly. The 
temple of Vishnu Pad in the old 
portion of it is difficult to 
approach except on foot, owing 
to the extreme narrowness of 
the streets. Anew carriage-road 
to the S. gate of the temple 
is, however, about to be con- 
structed. The temple is an 
ugly octagonal building, about 
100 ft. high, with many very 
clumsy mouldings: it faces E. 
with a very striking fa9ade. In 
the centre is an octagonal basin, 
4 ft. in diameter, inserted into the 
pavement and plated with silver, 
which surrounds the impress on 
the rock of the god’s foot. The 



ROUTE 2. SUDDH GAYA 


I Vislmu Pad (Footstep of Vishnu) 

I is about 1 6 in. long, and 6 in 
broad. Flower and other ofier- 
ings are made to it. S. of the 
temple, almost touching it, is a 
handsome pillared hall or porch, 
with the pillars let into the solid 
rock. The temple is served by 
Brahmans known as Gayawals, 
tlic rich hereditary priests, to 
whom all final offerings of the 
pilgrims must be given. They 
possess the exclusive privilege of 
blessing the pilgrims, without 
which their visits would be in- 
effectual. 

Buddh Gaya is 7 m. S of Gaya. 
I here is a good metalled road lead- 
i mg up to it. The origin of the 
Temple of Buddh Gaya is of great 
antiquity (543 B.C.), and is closely 
connected with events of the life 
of Buddha, It seems to be built 
m a hollow (the result of excava- 
tions • it was built on the fiat), 
which diminishes its apparent 
height, and is also shut in by small 
houses. The figure of Buddha, 
which, according to Hiuen Tsang, 
was of perfumed paste, w^as des- 
troyed centuries ago. Other 
figures of plaster were subse- 
quently made and also destroyed 
To the left is the place where the 
founder of the present College of 
^lahants, about 250 years ago. 
performed Tapasya — that is, sat 
surrounded by four fires, with the 
sun overhead. The • ashes were 
preserved in a hollow pillar. 

Much of the stone railing, which 
supposed to be the work 
of King Asoka, but is now known 
to be of a date 100 years later, has 
been restored to the position which 
^t is supposed to have occupied 
J'ound the original structure. It 
has four bars of stone, supported 
by pillars at intervals of 8 ft. The 
top rail is ornamented with carv- 
ings of mermaids, or females with 
the tails of fish inserting their 
arms into the mouths of Makaras — 
that is, imaginary crocodiles, with 
^arge ears like those of elephants J 


51 


ana long hind legs Below this 
top bar are three others, also of 
stone, ornamented with carvings 
of lotus flowers. The pillars are 
adorned with carvings of various 
groups — such as a woman and 
child, a man with a woman who 
has the head of a horse. Centaurs, 
and so on. Several additional 
pillars have been lately reco\'- 
ered and erected in their places. 
Mr Fergusson ^ pronounces this to 
be “ the most ancient sculptured 
monument in India.” The plinth 
of the temple is 26^^ ft. high, and at 
the top of it is a clear space 13 ft. 
broad, which allowed a passage 
round the tower. At each corner 
of the platform was a small temple, 
and outside the rail (erected 
during the Sunga period, 184-72 
B c.) were many subordinate 
temples. Behind the temple, on 
a raised platform, is the sacred 
Bo-tree (a pipal or Ficus religtosa) 
under which Buddha sat. The 
numerous figures and votive 
models of the temple and of 
stupas all round the shnne 
are of late date — i.e., about 
Soo-iooo A.D. 

Mr J. C. Oman says : ” Defaced 
by time and the hand of man, 
transformed a good deal through 
well-meant restorations, the cele- 
br^ed temple at Buddh Gaya, 
even in its modern disguised con- 
dition, with its 19th-century 
stucco about it, and its brand new 
gilt finial, is an imposing struc- 
ture, about 180 ft. high and 50 ft. 
wade at its base. All things con- 
sidered, it has certainly lasted 
remarkably well, the material of 
which it is constructed being only 
well-burnt brick cemented with 
mud. Stone has been used only 
in the door frames and flooring. 
The building is plastered with Hme 
mortar. It is built in the form of 
a pyramid of nine storeys, embel- 
lished on the outer side with niches 
and mouldings. Facing the nsing 
sun is the entrance doorway, and 


i Fergusson’s I ndian and Eastern Archi^ 
tecinre^, 104 . ^ 


i 


A 



52 


ROUTE 2. BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA 


India 


above it, at an elevation greater 
than the roof of the porch which j 
once adorned the temple, there is j 
a triangular opening to admit the 
morning glory to fall upon the I 
image in the sanctuary.” ! 

A Burmese inscription records a , 
restoration in 1306-1309. In 1877 , 
permission was granted these | 
Buddhists to restore the temple 
again, but Raja Rajendralala 
Mitra, deputed by the Local 
Government to inspect their work, 
stated that “ the Burmese earned 
on demolitions and excavations 
which in a manner swept away 
most of the old landmarks,” The 
remains of the vaulted gateway in | 
front of the temple were com- | 
pletely demolished, and the place | 
cleared out and levelled. The | 
stone pavihon over the Buddha ■ 
Pad was dismantled, and its | 
materials cast aside on a rubbish 
mound at a distance. The granite 
plinth beside it was removed. 
The drain-pipe and gargoyle which 
marked the level of the granite 
pavement were destroyed. The 
foundations of the old buildings 
noticed by Hiuen Tsang were 
excavated for bricks and filled 
with rubbish. The revetment wall 
round the sacred tree had been 
rebuilt on a different foundation 
on the W. The plaster ornam^ts 
on the interior facing of the sanc- 
tuary were knocked off, and the | 
facing was covered with plain 
stucco, and an area of 213 ft. to 
250 ft. was levelled and surrounded , 
by a new wall. For further de- | 
scription of the temple reference | 
may be made to Rajendralala | 
Mitra’s Buddh Gaya, Calcutta, j 
1878 ; and Cunningham’s A rch. ■ 
Suw., vol. iii. ; and Sir Edvdn I 
Arnold’s dehghtiul chapter in ^ 
India Revisited, 1886, “ The Land [ 
of the Light of Asia.” j 

To the N.W. is a small but very . 
ancient temple, in which is a figure ■ 
of Buddha standing. The door- i 
way is finely carved. 

Buddhists are allowed to remain 
permanently at Buddh Gaya, 


where there are Buddhist monks, 
and a remarkably beautiful image 
of Buddha, brought from Japan, 
is located in the Burmese monas- 
tery - 

From Gaya the S. Bihar Rail- 
way runs E. to Lakhisarai 
(80 m.). The Grand Chord line, 
as above noted, runs S.E. to 
Asansol and W. to Behri (D.B.), 
where the river Son is spanned by 
a vast girder bridge with 93 spans 
of 100 ft. each, the total length 
being 10,052 ft. Above the bridge 
the Grand Trunk Road crosses the 
river over a stone causeway, and 
higher up are the headw'orks of 
the Son Canals, consisting of a 
reservoir dam 2J m. in length, 
with the main canals branching 
off on either side. A hght railway 
runs from Dehri up the nv'cr to 
I Rohtas station, 24 m., overlook- 
ing which IS the ancient hill-fort 
of Rohtas (D.B), occupying a 
plateau 4 m. by 5 m. and 1500 ft. 
in height. The fort was impreg- 
nable, being surrounded for the 
greater part by sheer precipices 
500 ft. to 1000 ft, in height, with 
the few comparatively vulnerable 
points protected by strong de- 
fensive works consisting of double 
and triple lines of ramparts and 
bastions. Its natural facilities 
admirably fitted it for a siege, 
the summit being wooded and 
capable of extensive cultivation, 
with a plentiful supply of water 
at all seasons, and excellent graz- 
ing for some thousands of cattle 
There are a magnificent Mughal 
Palace in an excellent state of 
preservation and two villages in 
the plateau From Behri the 
Grand Chord line runs W. to 
SasaTam^(D.B., population 23,097), 
a distance of ii m., where is 
the colossal domed mausoleum 
of the Afghan usurper Emperor of 

^ Sasaram— tooo toys- A certain Asura, 
j or demon, is said to have lived here, who 
had 1000 arms, each holding • a separate 
plaything. 



ROUTE 2. SASARAM CHAIN PUR — PAItASNATH 


53 


Delhi, Sher Shah (1540-1545), one 
(if the most magnificent in all 
India (see Fergusson’s Indian 
ArchiiechiYe, 2, 218) ; it rises 

from a terrace in the midst of a 
tank 1000 ft. square. The height 
from the floor to the apex of the 
dome is loi ft., the total height 
above the water being over 150 ft. ; 
the dome has a span of 72 ft. In 
the town is the slightly smaller 
mausoleum of his father Hasan 
Shah Suri, standing in an enclosed' 
courtyard, and about a mile to the 
X W. is the tomb of his son, Sahm j 
Shah, which was intended to be ! 
larger than his father's, but was | 
never completed ; it also stands ; 
m a tank. These buildings should 
be seen by all interested in Orien- 
tal architecture. In a small cave 
just below the summit of a hill 
rising above the town is an Asoka 
inscription dating back to 232 b.c. 
The railway then runs W. to 
Kudra (D.B.), 16 m. from Sasa- 
ram ; the same distance to the S. 

IS the hill- fort of Shergarh, on a 
small plateau about 800 ft. in 
height. It was fortified by Sher 
Shah, and a palace, still in a fair 
state of preservation, built on the 
summit. Eight miles farther into 
the hills are the caves of Guptes- 
war, several hundred feet in length, I 
and a noted place of worship. | 
From Kudra the distance is 14 m. i 
by the railway to Bhabua Road j 
(D.B.) ; from there it is 10 m. to I 
Bhabua (D.B.) in the S. Five i 
miles to the S.W. of Bhabua is the 
ancient Hindu temple of Mundes- ! 
ivari, on the summit of a hill 600 ft. j 
m height; an inscription dates it j 
635 A.D. Eight miles S. of | 
Bhabua are immense earthwork i 
fortifications. They enclosed in ' 
a valie^j- an ancient town, the only - 
remains of which are broken j 
bricks covering an area of about | 
2 sq. m. ; the foundations of the 
houses are still below the soil. 
There is an Asoka inscription close , 
by ; another is at Jainpur, a 
couple of miles to the N.E. Six ■ 
miles to the W. of Bhabua is 


Chainpur, once an extensive 
town, now no more than a large 
Village. A short distance to the 
j W. is the mausoleum of Bakhtiyar 
Khan, a noble of the time of Sher 
Shah ; it is a splendid domed 
structure similar to those in 
Sasaram, standing in an enclosed 
courtyard. There is a fort at 
Chainpur built by Raja Saliva- 
ha n, whose descendants reside now 
at Bhagwanpur, 6 m. S. of 
Bhabua. The fort is now a 
famous place of pilgrimage, owing 
to a Brahman priest having done 
“ dharna." or fasted there till he 
died. Scattered over all this part 
of the country are the remains of 
old forts, attributed to the Suris, 
an aboriginal people. They con- 
sist of high mounds of earth, on 
which used to be situated the 
house of the local chief, the whole 
being surrounded by a deep moat. 
Fifteen miles N.W. of Bhabua 
Road station is Baidyanath, con- 
taining a large number of buildings 
dating back to early and mediaeval 
Brahmanism. It is supposed to 
have been the centre of the Sun 
kingdom, and is perhaps one of 
the most interesting sites in India, 
being surrounded b}” numerous 
structural relics illustrating the 
earliest Brahmanical architecture 
of^which we have knowdedge. 


Excursion to PARASNATH. 

Parasnath Mountain.^ — By 
motor to Dumri on the Grand 
Trunk Road, or by rail to Isri 
station, 198 m. from Calcutta, on 
the E.I.R. Chord. Isri is 2 m. 
from Dumri, where there is 
a D.B., with two servants. The 
distance from Isri to jMadhuban, 
at the foot of the mountain Paras 
natli, is 13 m. N E. by good motor 
road. The D.B. at summit has 

1 .bVijChap. \i ofMrBiadlej Y^\\t\Chot(i 
N<xg-ptir. 



54 


ROUTE 2. BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA 


India 


no provisions or servants, and 
permission to occupy must be 
obtained in advance from the 
Deputy ' Commissioner, Hazari- 
bagh. The ascent from Madhu- 
ban occupies 2j hours, and can be 
made on foot, or by chair and 
bearers. The mountain can be 
reached equally well from the 
Nimiaghat station (193 ra. from 
Calcutta). There is a D B. on 
the Grand Trunk Road, close to 
the foot of the mountain, i m. 
from that station and about 3 m. 
from Isri. Information should 
be given beforehand to the Sub- 
Inspector of Dumri Thana, for 
coolies and supplies. The lover 
of mountain scenery will enjoy a 
visit to this far-famed mountain 
and place of pilgrimage. It is 
4488 ft. above sea-level, and is 
the Eastern metropolis of Jain 
worship. According to tradition, 
Parasnath, who was the 23rd 
Tirthankar of the Jains, was born 
at Benares, lived 100 years, and 
was buried on this mountain. 
The numerous temples, though 
most picturesque, are of no great 
antiquity. 

At Madhuban, 1230 ft., are the 
local headquarters of the Digam- 
bara and Swetambara sects of 
Jains. The principal representa- 
tives of the Jains met wdth in 
Bengal are the Marwaris, whose 
home of origin is in Raj pu tana. 

The appearance of the snow- 
white domes and bannerets of its 
temple, through the fine trees by 
which it is surrounded, is very 
beautiful."" The ascent of the 
mountain is up a pathway worn by 
the feet of innumerable pilgrims 
from all parts of India. Ten thou- 
sand still visit the place annually. 
The path leads through woods 
with large clumps of bamboo over 
slaty rocks or gneiss, much inclined 
and sloping away from the moun- 
tain. The view from a ridge 500 
ft. above the village is superb. 
Ascending higher, the path tra- 
verses a thick forest of sal 
{Shorea robustu), and other trees 


spanned with cables of hauhmia 
stems. At 3000 ft. the vegeta- 
tion becomes more luxuriant, and 
the conical hills of the wliite ants 
disappear. At 3500 ft. the vege- 
tation again changes, the trees 
becoming gnarled and scattered. 
The traveller emerges from the 
forest at the foot of a great ridge 
of rocky peaks, stretching E. and 
W. for 3 or 4 m. The saddle of 
the crest (4230 ft.) is marked by a 
small temple, one of many which 
occupy various prominences of the 
ridge, with a beautiful view. To 
the N. are ranges of low wooded 
hills, and the Barakar and Adjai 
Rivers. To the S. is a flatter 
country, with lower ranges 
and the Damodar River. The 
twenty-four Jain temples built 
commemorate the attainment 
of Kirvana (the cessation of 
individual existence) by twenty 
of the twenty-four deified saints 
recognised by the Jains. The 
situation of the principal temple 
is very fine, below the saddle in a 
hollow facing the S., surrounded 
by groves of plantain and Ficus 
Indica. It contains little but the 
sculptured feet of Parasnath and 
some marble cross-legged figures 
of Buddha, with crisp hair, and 
the Brahmanical cord. Many 
chapels and altars with such reliefs 
are dotted about the crest. A 
convalescent depot for European 
soldiers was established in 1S58, 
but was abandoned ; the officers’ 
quarters are now utilised as a D.B. 


138 m. from Calcutta is Sitaram- 
par junction station for Barakar, 
5 m., and Katrasgarh, 40 m. 

132 m. from Calcutta is Asansol 
junction station (R.) of the Bengal 
and Nagpur Railway (see Route 7). 
(D.B., population 21,919,) 

121 m, from Calcutta is Raniganj 
station (population 15,497). In- 
spection Bungalow on the E. edge 



ROUTE 2. RANIGANJ — BITROWAX— KALNA 


of the great coal-fields of Bengal, 
which stretch out 3S4 m. to the 
\V., and extend under the bed of 
the Damodar. The place was 
formerly the property of the Raja 
of Burdwan, hence the name, 
^lore than thirty species of fossil 
plants, chiefly ferns, have been 
found in the coal, of similar species 
to those in the Yorkshire and 
Austrahan coal. The mines afford ; 
regular employment to a large 1 
number of men and women. 

The following information re- 
garding the coal-fields of Bengal 
Anil be of interest. That coal 
existed here was known as early 
as 1800 ; “ The coal of Bengal is 
all derived from the rocks of the 
Gondwana system, and is of the 
Permian age, or rather younger 
than the coal of England. The 
area of the Raniganj field is not 
less than 500 sq. m., exclusive of 
its extension under the Ganges 
Alluvium. The next most impor- 
tant held at the present day is 
Karharbari, about ii sq. m. in 
area, the greater part of which is 
owned by the E.I. Railway Com- 
pany This coal-field yields the 
best coal in Bengal. A third 
field ” (now the most important > 
of all) “ is the Jherria coal-field, 
about 200 sq. m. in area. It is 
situated 16 m. to the W, of the 
Raniganj field. The fourth field 
IS Daltonganj, with an area of 
about 200 sq. m." The progress ! 
of the Bengal coal industry can j 
be judged from the following | 
figures of the output : — 1881, ' 

900.000 tons ; 1891, 1,747,000 ; 

tons ; 1907, 8,500,000 tons ; 1909, | 

11.500.000 tons ; in 1911, of the ■ 
Raniganj coal-field, 4,311,956 tons; * 
of the Jherria coal-field, 6,373,728 
tons ; including the Giridih, 
-Daltonganj, and other small fields, 

total out-turn of Bengal and 
Bihar amounted to 11,468,904 
tons. The total output from the 
Jnines of British India regulated 
by the Indian Mines Act, was, in 
I911, 12,048,726 tons. Numbers ; 
employed, 106,598 in 1911. Ex- 


55 

ports of coal from India were 
889,601 tons in 1910- ii and 
^73.9^7 tons in 1911-12; in this 
last year 935,338 tons of bunker 
coal left Calcutta for use of 
steamers. The figures have been 
greatly affected by the War : 
thus the total exports of coal from 
Calcutta fell from 3,017,180 tons 
in 1913-14 to 1,610,645 tons in 
1915-16. At Raniganj there are 
also Burn & Co.'s Potteries and 
the Bengal Paper Mills. 

75 m. from Calcutta is Khana 
junction station for the loop fine 
(see p. 49). 

67 m. from Calcutta is Burdwan 
station (R.), D.B. (population 
35,921), headquarters of a District, 
and the residence of the Maharaja 
of Burdwan, the descendant of a 
Punjab Khatri, w-ho settled at 
Burdwan soon after the place had 
been conquered by Prince Khur- 
ram, later the Emperor Shah 
Jahan, m 1624. The Maharaja 
possesses a fine Palace in the place. 

38 m. from Calcutta, Pandua, 
now only a small village, formerly 
the seat of a Hindu Raja and 
fortified by a wall and trench, 
5 m. in Circumference, of which 
traces are still to be seen. A 
tower, visible from the railway 
station, standing 120 ft. high, 
obviously built in imitation of 
the Kutb Minar at Delhi, is said 
to commemorate a victory of the 
Muhammadans over the Hindus 
in 1340 : repaired in 1906-07 by 
Government, after an ancient 
lithograph. 

On the Hooghly-Katwa Rail- 
way (distances given from Bandel, 
25 m. from Calcutta, the junc- 
tion), is 

26i m. Kalna (population 8,603). 
A residence of the Maharaja of 
Burdwan, and formerly the port 
of Burdwan, on the River Bhagi- 
rathi or Hooghly. Inspection 
Bungalow. 



56 


India 


ROUTE 3. CAVES OF AJANTA 


65 i m. Katwa (population | 
6904). At the junction of the ! 
Bhagirathi and Adjai Rivers. ^ 
Inspection Bungalow. 

24 m. from Calcutta is Hooghly, 
junction station for the Eastern 
Bengal Railway. 

21 m. from Calcutta are Chan- 
dernagore, and 12 m. from Calcutta, 
Serampore, stations. 1349 m, 
from Bombay is Howiah, Calcutta 
terminus. (See Route 5.) 


ROUTE 3. 

CAVES OF AJANTA. 

Jalgaon, 261 m. from Bombay 
and 15 m. from Bhusawal, by the 
G.I.P. Railway, is the nearest and 
most direct route from Bombay to 
the Ajanta Caves. J alga on is 
35 m. from Fardapur, and the 
Caves are about 4 m. S.W. of 
Fardapur (where there is a Travel- 
lers’ Bungalow, ordinarily fur- 
nished). 

No transport other than country 
tongas (cost about Rs,35) is avail- 
able from J alga on, and even to 
secure this arrangements must be 
made beforehand wdth the Mam- 
la tdar of Jalgaon (a journey by 
country-cart will occupy eight to 
ten hours). Provisions, bedding, 
cook, and other servants must be 
taken. The road is fair and fit for 
motor cars as far as Fardapur. 
There are two District Bungalows 
on the road at Neri and Pahur, to 
occupy which the permission of 
the Collector of East Khandesh 
(at Jalgaon) must be obtained 
beforehand; they are situated at 
convenient stages, with plain 
ordinary furniture, with no ser- 
vants or other conveniences of 
any sort. 


The best and easiest way is to 
send up a motor car by railw’ay to 
Jalgaon station, and use it for" the 
expedition. By these means the 
trip can be made in a day during 
the fair season. Other ordinary 
country transport necessitates 
spending a night or more on the 
journey. The expedition is a very 
fine one, but quite out of the range 
of the ordinary tourist. 

The Caves of Ajanta/ like those 
of Kanhen, but unlike the major- 
ity of Buddhist caves, are exca- 
vated in the scarped side of a deep 
ravine, at the head of which is a 
steep w^aterfall. They lie about 
4 m. from the Fardapur rest-house, 
and the Warora stream and its 
affluent from the ravine have to be 
crossed several times in order to 
reach them ; the crossing is gener- 
ally a simple matter, but after 
heavy rain the channels may 
become impassable torrents for 
some hours or longer. The ravine 
is well wooded and pretty, and the 
view of the curved front of the 
caves, from the inner entrance 
to it, is extremely picturesque. 
These temples and monasteries 
date from shortly after the reign 
of Asoka, 272-231 B.C., to before 
the expulsion of Buddhism from 
India, i.e., about 600 a.d. They 
were visited by Hiuen Tsang about 
640 A.D, The caves, which are 
famous among all such remains for 
the paintings with which they 
were once decorated, are twenty- 
nine in number. Of these, four 
(Nos. 9, 10, 19, and 26) are Chaitya 
chapels, and the rest are vihara 
halls or monasteries. Six of them 
belong to the older Hinayana sect, 
and the rest to the Mahayanas! 
The oldest and the lowest in 
position are Nos. 9 and 8, which 
date from the 2nd century b.c., 
while the latest are referred to the 
7th century a.d. No. 8, the first 
on the left at the end of the path 
to the caves, is a small vihara, 

J For the Ajanta Caves, etc,, see both 
volumes of Fergusson’s hidian Afchitecture, 



ROUTE 3- 

measuring 32 ft. by 17 ft by 10 ft. 
It had two cells at each side and 
two at the sides of the antecham- 
ber of the shrine. It is of the same 
age as the Chaitya Cave, No. 9 , 
which is one of the oldest of all 
the Buddhist caves of India, and 
is 45 ft. deep, 22 J ft. wide, and 
23 ft. high. In dimensions and in 
the decoration of its facade it much 
resembles the Nasik Chait^^a Cave 
(P- 34) . hut is rather older in date 
than that. Fourteen plain octa- 
gonal pillars on each side separate 
the nave and aisles, and eleven 
more continue the colonnade 
round the dagoba at the end of 
the cave. The vaulted roof once 
carried wooden ribs ; in front of 
it is the great horseshoe window, 
ft. high, with a terrace and 
rail in front of it, and a second 
terrace over the porch, with a 
guardian dwarapala at either end. 
The dagoba is ii ft. high to the 
top of its capital ; this is in the 
form of a rehc-box, and probably 
once bore a wooden umbrella. Re- 
mains of paintings are still visible 
on the left and back walls ; on 
each pillar were once painted 
representations of Buddha, and 
on the roof of the aisles was 
painted a pattern of wooden com- 
partments. 

No. 10 is a still larger Chaitya, 
measuring 95 ft, by 41 ft. by 36 ft.*, 
and was also once fitted with 
wooden ribs, the roofs of the aisles 
having ribs carved in the stone. 
Its fa9ade has fallen. The dagoba 
resembles that in No. 9, and, as in 
that cave, there are considerable 
remains of the paintings which 
once covered the walls. The cos- 
tumes depicted in these resemble 
those of Sanchi (p. 137). 

No. 11 appears to have been 
remodelled. The roof of the 
veranda is painted with birds and 
flowers. The hall measures 37 it. 
hy 28 ft. by 10 ft., and is carried by 
four primitive columns. There is 
9 . bench along the right side. 


CAVES OF AJANTA 57 

There are three cells on the left 
side, and two cells and a shrine 
in the end wall ; in the shrine is a 
free-cut statue of seated Buddha, 
\rith a fine kneehng figure in front 
of it. 

No. 12 is a vihara measuring 
36 ft. square, with four cells on 
each of the three inner sides, and 
is probably of the same age as 
No. 9. The cells have two couches 
with stone pillars. Over their 
doors are representations of Budd- 
hist windows. 

No. 13 is a small hall, i6J ft. by 
13I ft. by 7 ft., with seven cells, 
each with a stone couch, round it. 
This completes the group of the 
older caves ; and with Nos. 7 and 6 
begins the group of excavations of 
the IMahayana school. The former 
(7) is a vihara of unusual shape, in 
that it has no hall, the veranda, 
which is preceded by two porches 
borne by columns of the Elephanta 
type, leading directly to four cells 
and to the antechamber to the 
shrine ; both the last are profusely 
decorated with sculpture. The 
statue represents Buddha, with his 
legs crossed under him, and his 
right hand raised to bless. 

No. 6 is the only cave here with 
two storeys. The lower stage, of 
which the front has fallen, 
measures roughly 54 ft. square. 
It is borne by sixteen plain octa- 
gonal columns in four rows, but 
only seven of these now stand. 
They are connected above by 
beams carved on the ceiling. On 
each side and at the back are 
cells, and in the middle of the last 
an antechamber with Elephanta- 
like columns leads to the shrine 
containing a seated figure of 
Buddha. The stair from this 
storey leads to the veranda of the 
upper storey, once carried by four 
columns, wuth chapels outside it 
and rooms at the end of it. The 
hall measures rather less than that 
of the lower storey, and is carried 



India 


ROUTE 3. CAVES OF A J ANT A 


58 

by twelve columns arranged round | 
a central space. There are cells ' 
all round this hall also, and a 
shrine with a front chamber in 
the back wall. 

Nos. 5 to 1 form with Nos. 21 
to 29 the latest group at Ajanta, 
and belong to the 6th and 7th 
centuries a.d. No. 5 has been 
commenced only, but has a hand- 
some door at the back of the 
veranda. No. 4 is the largest of 
-all the viharas, measuring 89 ft. 
square, and supported by twenty- 
eight pillars. It is surrounded 
by cells as usual, and has a large 
shrine, approached by an ante- 
chamber at the back. The veranda 
was carried by eight octagonal 
columns, and has three doors and 
two windows in the back wall 
leading to the hall, the centre 
one being decorated with ela- 
borate carvings. Between it and 
the right window is a sculptured 
relief of the Buddhist Litany, in 
which two figures are represented 
in each compartment as fleeing to 
Buddha from danger, from fire, 
snakes, and wild beasts. No. 3 
is a small vihara, of which again 
only the veranda is shaped out. 
No. 2 IS a vihara hall. 48 ft. square, 
supported by twelve pillars, with 
live cells on either side and one 
chapel room at each side of the 
antechamber and shnne. There 
are also two chapel rooms at each 
end of the veranda, the front of 
which is carried by four pillars 
with flow’^er-shaped capitals ; the 
roof of the veranda projects 7 ft. 
to the front of the columns. 
Between the hall and the veranda 
are a finely-decorated door and 
tw^o %vindows opposite to the side 
aisles formed by the columns in 
the hall, which are richly carved. 
At the end of these aisles are two 
chapel rooms, that on the E. side 
with the figures of a king and a 
queen holding a child, with small 
figures of sporting children below 
them ; and that on the W. side 
with two large male figures. A 


richly-carved doorway leads to the 
shrine ; in front of the seated 
figure in it are kneeling worship- 
pers. Traces of painting exist in 
this cave on the roofs of the 
veranda and the hall and its 
aisles, and in the shrine and the 
two side chapels. The scenes on 
the E. wall of the hall represent 
a royal procession with elephants, 
horses, and armed retainers, and 
a sailing-boat laden with jars. 

No. I is one of the largest and 
most splendidly-decorated viharas 
of all. In the front is a veranda 
borne by six columns, once pre- 
ceded by a porch borne by two. 
Outside the veranda are three 
excavations on each wing, and 
inside is one at each end. The 
hall measures nearly 64 ft. square, 
is borne by twenty columns 
enclosing a central space, and has 
five cells on either side. At the 
back an ante-chapel with two 
columns, flanked by two cells on 
either side, leads to a large shrine. 
All along the front of the cave is a 
sculptured architrave with spirited 
representations of elephants, hunt- 
ing scenes, and groups of figures. 
On the West chapel are repre- 
sentations of the lour scenes of 
sickness, old age, and death, 
which led Buddha to renounce the 
world. In the upper part of the 
frieze are geese under a band of 
lions^ heads. Three doors and two 
windows open into the hail from 
the veranda, the centre door being 
elaborately carved, as are the 
columns of the back row in the 
hall and the sides of the other 
rows which face inwards. These 
carvings deserve detailed notice, 
being among the richest and most 
ornate known. In the shrine is a 
colossal statue of Buddha, sup- 
ported on either hand by Indra. 
At the sides of the elaborately 
decorated doorway to it are 
statues of the goddesses of the 
Ganges and Jumna above, and of 
twn snake-hooded guardians at 
the bottom. The whole of the 
cave was once covered with paint- 



59 


ROUTE 3 CAVES OF AJANTA 


ings, of which a certain amount 
remains. In the four corners of 
the ceiling are interesting panels 
which represent groups of for- 
eigners — perhaps Persians. On 
the front wall is represented the 
reception of a Persian embassy by 
a Raja in his palace. On the back 
wall to the E. of the antechamber 
IS a mountain scene, and between 
the doors of the two cells are a Naga 
Raja and his wife in conversation | 
with another personage, while high I 
up on the wall is a snake-charming 
scene ; farther on is another scene 
of a Naga Raja and ladies ; and 
between the second and third cell 
doors, on the E. wall, is a scene of 
elephants and soldiers. On the 
back wall of the antechamber to 
the shrine is a painting of the 
Temptation of Buddha by Mara, 
such as is represented in the bas- 
relief in cave No. 26. 

Returning to the centre of the 
path, cave No. 14 is reached above 
No. 13 , and forms the third of the 
middle group of Mahayana works. 
According to Mr Burgess, Nos. 16 
a^nd 17 are the finest of the whole 
series of caves, and with the 
Cbaitya cave. No. 19, date from 
about 500 A.D. The first of these, 
a vihara, is incomplete. The 
second. No. 15 , has a hall 34 ft. 
square without columns, preceded 
by a veranda, and with six cells on 
each side ; in the back wall are 
two cells and a shrine. No. 16 has 
a- veranda 65 ft. long and nearly 
II ft. wide, borne by six plain 
octagonal pillars ; from the front 
of it steps descend to a chamber 
^th a representation of a Naga 
Raja. Here also three doors and 
two windows open from the 
veranda into the hall, which is 
nearly 66 ft. square, and has 
twenty octagonal pillars, the roof 
of the front aisle being carved to 
simulate beams. On each side are 
SIX cells. The shrine, which is 
entered direct from the hall, and | 
bas side aisles separated off by 1 
two columns, contains in the ! 
centre a huge statue of Buddha in 1 


the teaching attitude. On ibe 
left wall of the hail are paintings 
of. a death scene, and of Buddha 
with a beggar's bowl, and teaching 
in a vihara. On the right wall, 
left of the door of the first cell, are 
the remains of a representation of 
Prince Siddhartha drawing the 
bow. No. 17 is very similar in 
size and arrangement to No. 16, 
but has an antechamber to the 
shrine, and two cells on either side 
of the former. Over the central 
door to the hall are a row of 
painted Buddhas. There are only 
one side door and three vandows. 
Between the veranda and No. 16 
IS a fine cistern. In front of the 
figure of Buddha in the shrine 
I stand two figures, one with a 
I mendicant's bowl. On the ceiling 
of the N. end of the veranda is a 
; much- damaged circular painting, 
in the compartments of which 
human beings and animals are 
represented ; and on the back 
wall of the E. half is a painting of 
three females and a male figure 
flying through the air. The paint- 
ings on the side walls of the hall 
have been ruined by smoke. On 
the \V. portion of the back wall is 
a picture with scenes in a court of 
justice, and hunting, and others 
in which a lion plays the principal 
part On the right wall is a scene 
of the landing of Vijaya in Cevlon. 
and of female demons devour- 
ing victims. No. 18 is merely a 
porch. No. 19 is the third Chaitya 
cave, measuring 46 ft, by 24 ft. 
by 24 ft. high. It is therefore 
of very similar dimensions to 
No. 9, but, unhke that, is profii>eiy 
decorated throughout. In front 
of it was a large court, most of 
which has fallen ; but the porch 
at the back of the court under the 
great arched window still stands, 
and, like the whole fa9ade, is 
covered vdth elaborate ornament. 
Five pillars on each side of the 
nave separate the aisles from 
it, and five more run round 
the dagoba. Outside the first 
two pillars of each colonnade is 



India 


6o ROUTE 4. 

another, thus completing an aisle 
passage all round the cave. The 
columns have square bases and 
rounded shafts with bands of 
carving and bracket capitals 
richly decorated. Above the 
columns on the wall under the 
curved roof were painted com- 
partments of figures of Buddha, 
divided by floral arabesques. The 
roof has stone ribs carved under 
it. The front of the dagoba bears 
a figure of Buddha. Outside the 
cave to the W. is a relief of a Naga 
Raja, with a seven-headed cobra 
hood, and his wife. No. 20 has a 
veranda, of which the roof is 
carved in imitation of rafters, and 
a hall 28 ft. by 25 ft. ; the ante- 
chamber here projects into the 
hall. 

The rest of the caves, from 2 1 to 
29, complete the group of the later 
Mahayana caves, and lie consider- 
ably farther W. The veranda of 
21, which has fallen, had at each 
end of it a chapel chamber with 
two pillars in front, with the 
earliest representation, as Mr 
Burgess beheves, of the leaf falhng 
over the corners of the capitals. 
The jewel or necklace pattern on 
the frieze above is characteristic of 
the work of the 7th century. The 
hall measures 51 ft. square, and 
has twelve columns ; the image in 
the shrine is attended by huge 
chauri bearers. No. 22 is a small 
vihara of 16 ft. square ; the image 
in the sanctuary is represented 
with its feet resting on a lotus. 
No. 23 is another vihara hall about 
50 ft. square, with twelve pillars ; 
the sanctuary is incomplete, but 
all four columns of the veranda 
are entire. No. 24 would have 
been the largest vihara of all, but 
was never completed. It shows 
how these caves were excavated by 
means of long galleries, which were 
broken into one another ; the 
carving which exists is very 
elaborate. No. 26 is a small 
vihara hall 26 ft. by 25 ft. ; the 
veranda, which has two pillars, 
opened on a court in front. No, 


BENARES 

26 is the fourth Chaitya cave, and 
is very similar to No. 29. It is 
68 ft. deep, 36 ft. wide, and 31 ft. 
high. The veranda, borne by 
four columns, here also opened on 
to a court \vith sculptures on the 
sides of it, one on the east side 
representing the Buddhist Litany 
again. Over the veranda was a 
broad balcony in front of the great 
window, 9 ft high ; on each side 
of this are various sculptured 
reliefs of Buddha. A colonnade of 
twenty-six pillars forms the aisles, 
and runs round the dagoba at the 
back of the cave. The frieze 
above the colonnade is richly 
sculptured, and the roof is decor- 
ated with stone ribs. The walls 
of the aisles are also profusely 
decorated with sculpture ; on the 
left wall, near the door from the 
veranda, is a colossal image of the 
dead Buddha, and farther down 
the wall is the relief of the tempta- 
tion of Buddha by Mara. The 
dagoba has representations of 
Buddha all round it, and is over 
20 ft. high. No. 27 is an unfin- 
ished vihara, which would have 
been 43 ft. wide and 31 ft. deep. 
No. 28 , difficult of access, would 
hp-^e been a fifth Chaitya, of 
which only part of the great 
window has been excavated. No. 
29 is inaccessible ; only part of 
the veranda of it was ever com- 
pleted. 


ROUTE 4. 


BENARES. 

Benares^ ^ B.B. (p. 46), {lat. 25° 
I S', long. 83° 3'), 940 m. from 
Bombay, 429 m. from Calcutta, 

^ In his essay on Warren Hastings 
Macaulay wrote thus: “His first design 
was on IJenares, a city which in wealth, 
population, dignity, and sanctity, was 
among the foremost of Asia. It was 
commonly believed that half a million of 
human beings was crowded into that laby- 







ROUTE 4. 


BENARES 


61 


7b m. from Allahabad, 36 m. from 
Jaunpiir, 45 m. from Ghazipur, 
originally Varanasi, and com- 
monly called Kasi to which the 
suffix Ji is added by the Hindus by 
way of respect (population, 203,804 
— Hindus, 151,000; Brahmans, 
JO, 000), has been the religious 
capital of India from beyond 
historical times It is mentioned 
in both the Mahcibhayata and 
Ratnayana, and \vas officially 
known in the iSth century as 
-Muhcinimadabad (bui the name 
Old not endure). The most gener- 
ally accepted derivation of the 
name Vdmnasi 1$ from the streams 
Varana [modeyn Bayna) and Asi, 
the former a river of some size on 
the N. and W. of the city, the 
latter a rivulet, now a mere pullo, 
embraced within its area, dhe 
present citv lies wholly between 
the Barna and the Asi, and thus 
gives an air {perhaps Kpurious) of 
probability to the aVeivc deriva- 
tion, In old days the Asi was 
well awav from tlic city, which has 
grown in that direction m modern 
tunes. “ Benares is said to com- 
bine the virtues oi all other plac'cs 
oi pilgrimage, so much so tliat 

‘ null of lofty arie\''. rich with vhrlues, and 
ninarets, and balconk'. and carved orieK, 
*0 which the sacred .rpes clung by hundred', 
hie traveller could -.Cvircely make his u a> 
Uiroii',;h the pre^s of holy mendicant', and 
less holy bulls. Tne broad and stately 
'aght^ of steps which descended hum the'-e 
arming haunts to the bathmg-pLices along 
tfie Ganges were worn every day by the 
'uoisteps of an innumerable multitude of 
''■"r shippers. The schools and temples 
•itevy Clouds of pious Hindoos from every 
province where the Iliahminic..! faith vv.is 
•tnuwn. Hundreds of devotee^ came hither 
*very month to die, for it was believed that 
3- peculiarly happy fate awaited the man 
who should pass from the sacred cii> Into 
the sacred river. Xor was superstition the 
^'nly motive which allured strangers to that 
eteat metropolis Commerce had as many 
pdgrlms as religion. All along the shores of 
the venerable stream lay great fleet, of 
' essels laden with rich merchanaise. From 
the looms of Benares went forth the most 
delicate silks that adorned the halls of 
j't James’s and of X'ersailles ; and in the 
h.i/,iar.s, tlie muslins of Bengal and the 
vinres of Oude were mingled with the jewels 
v>f Oolconda and the shawls of Cashmere.” 


any one ut whatever creed, and 
however great his misdeeds, 
dying vithm the compass of the 
Panch Kosi load which surrounds 
i Benares, is transported straight to 
' heaven. This belief leads many 
people to end their days at Ben- 
' ares. Its peculiar sanctity is 
. derived from the ‘ ten-horse sacri- 
fice," referred to under Dasas- 
, wamtdh (ffiat, (p, 66.) (Motor 
; Guide, U.P.) 

I The site of Benares has often 
' been changed. The past history 
of this, one of the most ancient 
I cities in India, is involved in 
obscurity. The Chinese travellers 
Fa-Hian and Hmen Tsang visited 
it in 399 A.D. or 629-645 A.D. 
respectively. The latter mentions 
about 100 temples sacred to 
Siva, with 10,000 votaries. 
In past ages it has been a city 
of sanctity and learning, the home 
of plulo.sophers and grammarians. 
It is, however, certain that it was 
a most flourishing and important 
place six centuries before the 
Christian v^ra, lor Sakyamuni 
(Buddha) who was born about 
35S p L and died in 483 b.c., 
came to it from Gaya to establish 
his religion, which he cvould not 
liavc done had it not been then a 
great centre. ]^iany important 
writers of the Hindus are first 
heard ot at Benares. Of mter- 
liicdiale Lw ents little is known, 
but the place was sacked bt^ 
Mahmud of Ghazni. We learn 
from Husain Nizami’s history that 
in 1194 Jaichand, Raja of 

Benares, ” whose army was count- 
less as the sand,"" was deieated 
and killed by Kutb-ud-din, the 
general of Shahab-ud-din Ghori, 
and the Emperor Ala-ud-din 
destroyed 1000 temples, and built 
mosques on their sites. From 
that date Benares was governed by 
the Moslems, and became part of 
the proffince of Allahabad. It is 
due to the iconoclastic spirit of the 
conquerors that hardly a single 
building can be found in Benares 
which dates beyond the time of 



India 


b4 ROUTE 4. BENARES 


nient cavalry Iroiti a jsiuall 

Cantonment 12 m. away. Lord 
Cnrzon had an historical tablet 
affixed to the wall of the house i 
In the Civil Station is a house in ! 
which Warren Hastings once lived I 
temporarily; a sundial constructed j 
by him still exists just outside 
the garden on the edge ot the 
road. 

From near the Kothi a fine 
road — the Grand Trunk Road 
from Calcutta to N. India — leads 
to the Raj Ghat and Ganj-i-shahid 
Mosque, passing the Bakariya 
Kund and near the Bhairon Lat. 
The first of these, on the right side 
of the road, was a famous, and 
still is a picturesque, tank teeming 
with Muhammadan monuments 
and mosques converted from other 
Hindu buildings, and built of pre- 
Muhammadan materials ; close to 
it is a shrine, known as the Battis 
Khamba, or Thirty-two Pillars, 
now a Muhammadan tomb. The 
whole neighbourhood of the Bak- 
ariya Kund IS now dirty and 
neglected, and only of interest to 
the antiquarian The Lat of 
Bhairon, on the left side ot the 
road farther on, is a Buddhist 
rehc, and may possibly be one of 
the Lats erected by King Asoka. 
The Ganj-i-shahid, not easy to 
find, behind some broken-down 
steps, on the S. side of the open 
space in front of the Raj Ghat 
Railway Station, is an interesting 
mosque built of fine Hindu re- 
mains, erected as a memorial of 
the j\Iussulmans who fell in the 
early captures of Benares, 

The London Mission is close to 
the Cantonment Railway Station 
on the S. side of the line ; the 
Wesleyan Mission is in Canton- 
ments ; the Zenana Bible and 
Medical Mission is near the 
Queen*s College, while the Hos- 
pital of the former and the Church i 
Mission are at Sighra, i m. S. of 
the Cantonment Railway Station. 
Farther on is the Vizianagram 
Palace, built by the Maharaja 
who died at Benares in 1845 (see 


p. 450). The house can be visited 
by permission of the Agent. 
There is a good view from the 
terraced roof over the Ganges 
in the direction of Aurangzeb’s 
mosque and the Golden Temple. 
Close to the palace on the W. are 
several Jain temples. This is 
the reputed birthplace of Paras- 
nath, the famous Jain^aint. 

The Central Hindu College and 
School, in the Kamachcha quarter, 
started under the auspices of Mrs 
Annie Besant, has for its object 
the combination of religious and 
moral education with mental and 
athletic development for Hindu 
youths. The College was visited 
1 by King George V., then Prince of 
' Wales, on 19th February 1906. 
The College is to be merged in the 
new Benares Hindu University 
(foundation-stone laid by Lord 
Hardinge in February 1916). The 
site of the University comprises 
2 sq. m. S. of the city : the 
building has commenced. The 
present College is 2 m. from the 
University site, and will probably 
become entirely a school as distinct 
from a college : it is now both 

Native Town. 

The Durga Temple, sometimes 
called the Monkey Temple by 
Europeans from the numbers of 
monkeys which inhabit the large 
trees near it, is about three-fifths 
of a mile S- of the Vizianagram 
Palace. It is stained red with 
ochre, and stands in a quadrangle 
surrounded by high walls. In 
front of the principal entrance is 
the band room, where the priests 
beat a large drum three times a 
day. The central portion is sup- 
ported by twelve curiously-carved 
pillars on a platform raised 4 ft. 
from the ground. Through 'the ' 
doors, plated with brass, the image 
of the goddess may be seen ; in 
the porch are two bells. One of 
these bells was presented to the 
temple by a Biitish Collector of 



65 


ROUTE 4, RIVER GHATS, BENARES 


^iirzapur, alter escape from tiiiip- 
wreck on the Ganges last century. 
The temple and the fine tank ad- 
joining were constructed by a 
-Mahratta Rani in the iSth centurv 
Jp^rga is the terrific form of 
Siva's wife, and is said to delight 
in destruction, bloody sacrifices of 
goats are offered to her here. , 

From this temple, which is quite ! 
'-lose to Asi but over i-V m. from 
the other Ghats, the traveller may 
proceed to the Ghats, embark- 
ing either at the upper end of 
them from the Asi Ghat, or more 
conveniently from the central 
Dasaswamedh or Man Mandir Ghat, 
and rowing slowly past in front 
of them. In the follo’wing account 
the Ghats are given in succes- 
sion from the S , proceeding down 
iitream. 

dhe Asi Ghat is one of the five 
special places of pilgrimage in 
benares. The channel of the Asi, 
which here falls into the Ganges, 

IS dry during the cold weather, 
out is about 40 ft. broad. The 
^teps at the Ghat are a good deal 
orok-Lii It IS the rearest from 
W'hich to cross to Ramnagar, the 
palace of the Maharaja of Benares, 
Out there is a ferry actually at 
Ramnagar, with a metalled road 
uinning frpni the city to Ramna- 
^ar ferry : so there is no particular 
object in crossing from Asi, and 
the Ramnagar ferry affords a 
Very fine view of the city. The 
^ext Ghat is the t.ala Misr Ghat, 
'^I'hich belongs to the Maharaja 
Of Rewah. At tae N. end of the 
Tulsi Ghat, which follows, huge 
jRapcs of masonry have fallen, 
-met lie on the river's edge ; this 
^nat IS named after Swami Tulsi 
nt \ translator into Hindi 
of the Sanskrit epic of the Rama- 
yana. The Janki Ghat is quite 
; at the top of the steps are 
our Siva temples with gilded 
Pinnacles, and behind them is the 
well. At the foot of 
is the pumping station of 
Che Benares Water Works. The 


Eachhraj Ghai belongs to the Jains, 
who have built three temples on 
the bank of the river. Next 
comes the Sivala Ghat, where the 
fort in which Chait Singh resided 
stood. It is a handsome building, 
and appears as fresh as when first 
constructed. In the upper part of 
the K. wall are five small windows 
in a row, from one of which Chait 
Singh made his escape when he fled 
from Warren Hastings in 1781 . It 
IS now called the Khali Mahal, or 
“ empty palace,” and was repur- 
chased by the present Maharaja 
of Benares four or five years ago. 
In this building two companies of 
Sepoys and three young officers, 
who were sent by Hastings to 
arrest Chait Singli, were massacred 
by a mob which discovered that 
the soldiers had come without 
ammunition. When fresh troops 
reached the palace Chait Singh 
had fled. The graves of the 
three officers, distinguished by a 
memorial tablet, he in a narrow 
street, a short distance to the back 
of the palace. There is a memo- 
rial in the Cantonment church- 
yard. The Sivala Ghat is one 
of the finest of all the Ghats. Part 
of it is assigned to the religious 
ascetics called Gusains. The next 
IS the Dandi Ghat, and is devoted 
to the staff -bearing ascetics called 
Dandi Pants. It is also very 
fine. The Hanuman Ghat, which 
follows, is large and generally 
crowded ; at the head of it is 
a temple of the Monkev Cod 
At the Smashan Ghat, which is 
used as a subsidiary cremation 
ground, -wooden pyres may be seen 
being built, ivhile bodies wrapped 
up in white or red cloths lie -with 
their feet in the Ganges ready to 
be burned. 

Passing the Lali Ghat, the 
Kedar Ghat, W’hich comes next, 
deserves attention as one of the 
finest and loftiest of all. The 
Kedar temple just above Kedar 
Ghat is the popular .shrine of the 
Bengalis, who inhabit this quarter 
of the city. According to the 



66 


India 


ROUTE 4. BENARES 


religious books of the Hindus, the 
city is divided into three great 
portions — Benares, Kasi, from 
whence the popular name, and 
Kedar. Kedar is a name of 
Siva, but it also signifies a moun- 
tain, and especially a part of the 
Himalayan mountains, of which 
Siva is the lord, hence called 
Kedarnath. His temple, at the 
head of the steps, is much resorted 
to by the Bengali and Tilanga 
pilgrims to the city. It is a 
spacious building, the centre of 
which is supposed to be the place 
where Kedarnath dwells ; the 
interior can be seen from the 
doorway. At the four corners are 
Sivalas, with cupolas. There are 
two brass figures, hidden by a 
cloth, which is removed on pay- 
ment of a fee. The walls and 
pillars are painted red or white. 
There are also two large black 
figures, which represent dwarpals, 
or janitors ; each has four hands 
holding a trident, a flower, a club, 
and the fourth empty to push 
away intruders. Half-way down 
the Ghat is a pool cut in the steps 
called the Gauri Kund, or “ well 
of Gauri,” Siva’s wife, the waters 
of which are considered efficacious 
in curing fevers, dysentery, etc. ; 
on the steps of the Ghat are many 
lingam emblems of Siva. The 
Mansarowar Ghat (built by Raja 
Man Singh) leads to the Mansa- 
rowar tank, round which are sixty 
shrines, now very dilapidated. 
Manas or Mansarowar is a lake in 
the Himalayan Mountains, near 
Kailas, or Siva’s fabulous heaven. 
Near the tank at Benares so- 
called is a stone 4^ ft. high and 
15^ ft. in periphery, which is 
said to grow daily to the extent of 
a sesamum seed. In a street to 
the E. of the tank are figures of 
Balkrishna, or the infant Krishna, 
and Chatarbhuj or Vishnu. The 
head of the Narad Ghat, named 
after the famous Rishi, winds up 
picturesquely under two fine pipai 
trees. At the Chauki Ghat, under 
a pipai tree, are many idols and 


figures of snakes. In a street 
close by, called Kewai, is a figure 
of Durga with ten arms. 

The next Ghat, where the stairs 
ascend into a large house or sarai 
built by Amrit Rao for travellers, 
is the haja Ghat. On leaving it 
the traveller reaches the Somes- 
war Ghat, so called from the adja- 
cent temple of the moon. Soma 
being the “ moon,” and Iswar 
” lord.” At this Ghat every kind 
of disease is supposed to be healed. 
Close by is an aUey, in which is the 
shrine of Barahan Devi, a female 
iEsculapius, who is worshipped in 
the morning, and is supposed to 
cure swollen hands and feet. The 
Chausathi Ghat is one of the most 
ancient at Benares. The Rana 
Ghat, next to it, built by the Mafia - 
rana of Udaipur, is not much 
frequented. The Munshi Ghat is 
the most picturesque of all the 
Ghats at Benares. It was built 
by Munshi Shri Dhar, Diwan of 
the Raja of Nagpur, and now 
belongs to the Maharaja of Darb- 
hanga (p, 420). The fine Ghat 
between this and the Dasas- 
wamedh Ghat was built by 
Ahalya Bai, the famous Mahratta 
Princess who governed Indore 
from 1765 to 1795 (pp. 123-4). 

The Basasu amedh Ghat is one 
of the five celebrated places of 
pilgrimage in Benares, the other 
four being the junctions (sangam) 
of the Asi and Barna with the 
Ganges, and the Manikamika and 
Panchganga Ghats. It is speci- 
ally thronged luring eclipses. 
Here Brahma is said to have 
offered in sacrifice (medh) ten (das) 
horses (aswa), and to have made 
the place equal in merit to Alla- 
habad. This w^as the only ap- 
proach to the river between the 
two extreme ends of the town, 
until lately the Municipality 
opened up another but much less 
important road at Mosanghat. 

At the S. end of th^ Ghat, which 
should be visited on ;foot, is a low 
whitew'ashed shrine ipf Sitala? the 



ROUTE 4. RIVER GHATS, BENARES 


goddess of smallpox, and of the 
presiding deity of the Ghat, figured 
under a brass hngam. Farther on 
at the Ghat are life-size stone 
figures in niches of the Ganges, 
Saraswati, and Jumna rivers, and 
of Vishnu, the Trimurti or Trinity, 
and the Narsingh or hon-man in- 
carnation of Vishnu, which are 
passed on the way to the Man 
Maadir Ghat and the Observatory, 
much admired by some experts : 
the best old Hindu building in 
Benares. This lofty building gives 
a fine appearance to the Ghat, and 
commands a beautiful view of the 
river. It was erected by Raja 
Jai Singh, the founder of Jaipur, 
in Raj pu tana {see p. 192), with 
four other observatories — at Delhi, 
Muttra, Ujjain, and Jaipur. On 
entering the Observatory, the first 
instrument seen is the Bhittiyan- 
tra, or “ mural quadrant ” It is a 
wall II ft. high and 9 ft. ij in. 
broad, in the plain of the meri- 
dian ; by this are ascertained the 
sun’s altitude and zenith distance, 
and its greatest declination, and 
hence the latitude. Then come 
two large circles, one of stone and 
the other of cement, and a stone 
square, used, perhaps, for ascer- 
taimng the shadow of the gnomon 
and the degrees of azimuth The 
Samr at y antra seen next is a wall , 
which is 36 ft. long and 4|- ft. ! 
broad, and is set in the plane of the ] 
meridian. One end is 6 ft. qj in, ! 
high, and the other 22 ft. 3^- in., j 
and it slopes gradually up so as to : 
point to the North Pole. By this, ■ 
the distance from the meridian, ! 
the declination of any planet or 
star and of the sun, and the right i 
ascension of a star, are calculated. 
There are also a double mural 
quadrant, an equinoctial circle of 
stone, and another Samratyantra. 
Close by is the Chakrayantra, 
between two walls, used for finding 
the declination of a planet or star ; 
3 -Ud near it a Digamsayantra, to 
find the degrees of azimuth of a 
planet or star. The instruments 
nre fully descnbed in a leaflet 


67 

obtainable at the Observatory. 
(See also the account of the Jaipur 
Observatory, p. 193.) 

The Mir Chat leads up to the 
Dharm Kup, or Sacred Well, and 
the Laiita Ghat to the Nepalese 
, Temple, a picturesque object, but 
; disfigured by indecent carvings; 
they do not catch the eye, and if 
the attendant can be discouraged 
from pointing them out, nobody 
need keep away on their account. 
This does not resemble in the least 
I the Hindu temples. 

j The famous Golden Temple 
j (someway from the river, see 
, p 69) IS between this Ghat and 
; the Jalsain Ghat, or Burning Ghat, 

I which lies beyond the Nepalese 
Temple on the down-stream side, 
and is crowned by a mass of 
j temples and spires. Numbers of 
' cremations are usually in progress 
; on the spot, and many sati stones 
j will be noticed all round it ; it is 
j naturally regarded by the Hindus 
' as one of the most holy places in 
i the \yhole of Benares. 

The Manikarnlka Ghat is con- 
sidered the most sacred of all the 
Ghats, and in November is visited 
by multitudes of pilgrims. Just 
above the flight of steps, whi^ , are 
enclosed by piers running ou^ Into 
the river, is the Mamkarnika^^/ell, 
or pool, and betw'een it the 

steps is the temple of Tark war. 
The well has its name from "x^-ani, 
“ a jew^el,” and Kama, “ the ear,” 
Devi or IMahadeo having dropped 
an ear-ring into it. During an 
eclipse of the sun it is visited by 
great numbers of pilgrims. The 
well, or, more properly, tank, is 
35 ft. square, and stone steps lead 
down to the w^ater. Offerings of 
the Bel tree, flowers, milk, sandal- 
wood, sweetmeats, and ^vater are 
thrown into it, and the smell 
arising from it is in consequence 
anything but pleasant. Between 
the well and the Ghat is the 
Charanpaduka. a round slab pro- 
jecting slightl)' from the pave- 



68 


BENARES 


India 


ROUTE 4. 

ment, on which stands a pedestal 
of stone ; on its marble top are 
two imprints, said to have been 
made by the feet oi Vishnu. The 
privilege of being burnt at the 
Charanpaduka, instead of the 
usual burning Ghat, is confined 
to a few families, and is much 
prized- At the second fiight of 
steps of this Ghat is a temple to 
Siddha Vinayak, or Ganesh. The 
idol has three eyes, is painted red, 
and has a silver scalp and an 
elephant’s trunk covered with a 
bib. At the feet of the image is 
the figure of a rat, which is the 
vahana, or “ vehicle,” of Ganesh. 

The Scindia’s Ghat was intended 
to have been one of the grandest 
of the whole front, but, owing to 
the great weight of the superstruc- 
tures, the foundations have sunk 
several feet, and are still gradually 
sinking. It has been in this 
state for nearly a century. The 
temple on the left of the S. turret 
is rent from top to bottom, as 
are the stairs leading to the cur- 
tain between the turrets. It 
was built about 1830 a.d. by 
Baiza Bai, widow of Daulat Rao 
Scindia, who constructed the 
coloi^ade round the Well of 
Knolriedge. Passing two Ghats, 
the ffnext reached is the 
Ghat» which was built by the 
Nag^r Raja one hundred years 
ago, and is very massive and hand- 
some. The following picturesque 
Ghat was built by the last of the 
Peshwas. The Ram Ghat, which 
comes next, was built by the Raja 
ot Jaipur. 

The next large Ghat is the 
Panchganga Ghat, beneath v.iiich 
five nvers are supposed to meet ; 
it was built by Raja Man Singh, 
and Carnes a number of pictur- 
esque shnnes Above it rises the 
mosque of Aurangzeb, called in 
oI<l map.'^ the “ .Mmarets.” This 
was built for the Emperor by a 
Hindu of the name of :Madhu Das, 
and the minarets are still called 


after him. It occupies the site of 
a temple of Vishnu, and was 
erected to emphasise the predom- 
inance of the Muhammadan reli- 
gion. The view from the top of 
the minarets, which rise nearly 
150 ft. above the platform of the 
mo.sque, and are slightly out of the 
I perpendicular, is extremely fine. 

' If the full climb is too much, it 
is quite worth while to ascend to 
the root of the building. The 
, two stupas at Sarnath can be 
seen from here, and the Mir- 
zapur Hills. 

Four unimportant Ghats lie be- 
I tween this and the second Sitala 
j Ghat, below which the Gao, Gai, 
j or (Jau Ghat, so called from the 
' number of cows that resort to it, 

I and also from the stone figure of 
I a cow there, stands out into the 
[ river. There are no steps, and 
I cows can reach the river wdthout 
mishap. This is the real reason' 
^ for the name. 

The Trilochan Ghat, the next 
, reached, has two turrets in the 
I river, and the water between them 
I possesses a special sanctity. The 
I pilgrims bathe in the Ganges at 
this Ghat, and then proceed to 
I the Panchganga and there bathe 
[ again. At the head of the Ghat 
I is a temple of Tnlochan, or the 
j Three-Eyed, another form of Siva. 

I The Prahlad Ghat is the last 
I masonry Ghat ol uli, and irom 
it a fine view is obtained of the 
! whole river front. Farther down 
I the stream is the site of the old 
' Raj Ghat ferry, now spanned by 
; the great Dufierm Bridge ; also 
by a pontoon bridge, except in 
the rains, just above the Dufierin 
Bridge. These bridges are near 
the Raj Ghat: the junction of 
the Ganges and Barna is % m. 
lower down. Raj Ghat fort dates 
from antiquity : newly reoccu- 
pied and reconstructed during 
the mutiny, it is now dismantled. 
The clusters of temples at the 
junction are very picturesque 
here in the ruins. 



6o 


route 4 . GOLDEN 

The Golden Temple is dedicated 
to Biseswar (Sanskrit, Visvesvara), 
or Siva, as the Lord of the 
L'nivorse. The temple, which iir 
surrounded by very narrow, 
crowded streets, is in a roofed 
quadrangle, above which rises 
the tower. At each corner 
is a dome, and at the S.E. 

0 Sivala. Opposite the entrance, 
with its finely-wrought brass 
doors, is a shop where flowers are 
sold for offerings, from the upper 
storey of which, on a level with the 
three towers of the temple, the 
interior may be seen. The red 
conical ^ tower (left) is that of 
-Madadeo’s temple ; next to it is a 
gilt dome, and on the right is the 
gxit tower of Biseswar’s temple. 
The three are in a row in the 
centre of the quadrangle, which 
they almost fill up. Two of them 
are covered with gold plates, over 
plates of copper which cover the 
Stones. The expense of gilding 
was defrayed by Maharaja Ranjit 
Singh, of Lahore. The temple of 
Biseswar is 51 ft. high Between 
’.t and the temple of Mahadeo hang 
nine bells from a carved stone 
framework. One of these, and 
the most elegant, was presented 
by the Maharaja of Nepal. The 
temple of Mahadeo was built by 
Ahalya Bai, Princess of Indore 
' pp. 1 2 3-4) . Outside the enclosure 
ns the Court of Mahadeo, where on 
a platform are a number of lin- 
gams, and many small idols are 
built into the wall. They are 
thought to have belonged to the 
eld temple of Biseswar, which 
^tood N.W. of the present one. 
and of which the remains are s'till 
to be seen, forming part of the 
mosque which Aurangzeb built on 
them. 

In the quadrangle between the 
laosque and the Temple of Bis- 
eswar is the famous Gyaa Kup, 

^ These conical tuwers, almost universal 
''1 Hindu temples, are called Sikharas. T he 
of their peculiar form U unknown. 
Fergusnon's Indian Ay-chitecture. 

1 :>22 


temple: GY as KCfP 

** Well of Knowledge.” where, 
according to Hindu tradition, the 
emblem of Siva took refuge when 
the original temple was destroyed, 
and still is. The well is protected 
by a high stone screen, and covered 
by a stone canopy, and the wor- 
shippers, an eager and excited 
crowd, by whom the quadrangle is 
always thronged, are no longer 
permitted to cast offerings of 
flowers, etc., into it. The roof 
and colonnade of the quadrangle 
were built by Baiza Bai, widow 
of Daulat Rao Scindia On one 
side of the colonnade is a stone 
bull, or Nandi, given by the Raja 
of Nepal, 7 ft. high. On another 
side is an iron railing, within which 
is a shrine of white marble and one 
of white stone, ami a carved stone 
I support, from which hangs a bell. 

I Around are many richly-carved 
small temples, particularly one, to 
I the S, of Biseswar ; the gate- 
! ways of the courtyard are simi- 
i larly carved, and small gilded 
spires add to the picturesqueness 
of the scene. 

The great Muhammadan 
Mosque, usually ascribed to 
: Aurangzeb. but probably built 
by Jahangir, lies to the N W. 
side of the Gyan Kup. The two 
octagonal minarets are 232 ft. 
above the Ganges. The Hindus 
claim the courtyard between it 
and the temple wall, and in con- 
sequence it is entered from the 
side. The beautiful columns in 
the front of the mosque belonged 
to the destroyed temple, of which 
further fine remains may be seen 
at the back of the mosque. The 
bigoted Emperor Aurangzeb 
fi65S-i707) is credited with the 
destruction of the most ancient 
and sacred Siva temple at Benares 
and the erection of the mosque on 
its site. During the penod of 
nearly three centuries since the 
mosque was built not a stone has 
been A goodly number 

of the faithful assemble here 
on Fridays ; at other times it 
is less frequented. The back of 



70 


ROUTE 4. 


BENARES 


India 


the mosque showing the old 
Hindu architecture should be 
examined. Other Muhammadan 
monuments of interest in Benares 
are : the tomb of Lai B3ian, 1725 
A.D., which lies in the southern 
corner of the Raj Ghat plateau , 
the Palang Shahid, a little Muham- 
madan cemetery to the N . W . 
of the tomb; and the Ganj-i- 
Shahidan Mosque, a little to the 
S. of Kasi railway station, which is 
an instance of the conversion of 
an old temple, supposed to be 
Buddhist, to the uses of the 
Muhammadan religion. 

Just outside the Golden Temple 
is the Shrine of Sacichar, or Sani, 
the planet Saturn or its regent. 
The image is a round silver disc, 
from which hangs an apron, or 
cloth, which prevents one remark- 
ing that it IS a head without a 
body. A garland hangs from 
either ear, and a canopy is spread 
above, A few steps beyond this 
is the Temple of Annapurna, a 
goddess whose name is com- 
pounded of Anna, “ food,” and 
Puma, ” who is filled.” She is 
supposed to have express orders 
from Biseswar to feed the inhabi- 
tants of Benares, and in front of 
this temple are always a number 
of beggars. It was built about 
1725 by the Peshwa of that date, 
Baji Rao I. There are four shrines 
in this temple dedicated to the 
Sun, Ganesh, Gaurisankar, and 
the monkey-god Hanuman. Near 
it again is the temple of SakM 
Vinayak, the witnessing deity 
(p. 68). It was built in 1770 by a 
Mahratta, whose name is not 
recorded. Here pilgrims, after 
finishing the Panch Kosi circuit 
round Benares, get a certi^ate of 
having done so. S. of the temple 
to Sani is that of Shukareswar, 
Shiikar being the planet Venus, 
where prayers are made for hand- 
some sons. Between the Temple 
of Annapurna, and that of Sakhi 
Vinayak is a strange Figure of 
Ganesh, squatting on a platform 
raised a little above the path. 


This ugly object is red, with, silver 
: hands, feet, ears, and elephant’s 
' trunk. 

! The narrow streets and lanes 
which connect the Ghats with one 
another, and the parts of the city 
lying more remote from the river 
; front, will be found exceedingly 
I interesting ; but they cannot be 
described as clean and sweet, and 
they must be traversed on foot, 

; though a carriage proceeding 
along the broader streets at the 
I back can be rejoined at intervals. 

; This mass of narrow streets, too 
' narrow for wheeled traffic, ^ and 
i overhung by lofty houses, is 
1 known as the “Pukka Mahals” 

[ and is one of the most char- 
j acteristic features of Benares. 

1 It comprises the whole of the 
: city nearest the river, but is of 
‘ varying depth and covers alto- 
I gether several square miles. 
Almost every corner of the Pukka 
Mahals is picturesque. The effect 
of the closely crowded houses can 
be seen from the top of Aurang- 
zeb’s mosque on the river bank. 

Among the remaimng objects of 
interest in Benares may be men- 
tioned the Bhaironath, Dandpan, 

' Bridhkal, and Kameswar tem- 
ples, and the Arhai Kangura 
mosque, all situated on theN.W. 
outskirt of the city. The first, 

' built by Baji Rao II. in 1825, is 
remarkable for a fine tamarind 
tree. The idol in the temple is 
considered to be the Kotwal. or 
magistrate of the city, who rides 
about on an in\isible dog. There 
: is an image of a dog close to the 
idol, and the confectioners near 
sell images of dogs, made of sugar, 
which are offered to it. A Brah- 
man waves a fan of peacock’s 
feathers over visitors to protect 
them from evil spirits, and they in 
return must drop offerings into 
! the cocoanut shell he holds. The 
! idol is of stone, with a face of 
, silver and four hands The Dand- 
I pan temple close to this contains 
the staff of Bhairon, a stone shaft 
' 4^ ft. high, and the famous Kai 



ROUTE 4 . MUHAMMAUAN AXD HINDU BUILDINGS-- SARNATH 71 


Kup, or Well of Fate, into which 
the sunlight fails from a hole in 
the wall above. The dingy Bridh- 
kal temple contains a well and a 
small tank renowned for the 
curing of diseases. Near it is the 
Alamgiri mosque, constructed, in 
the second year of the reign of 
Aurangzeb, of pillars from an old 
temple. The Arhai Kangura 
Mosque, which, with the Kames- 
war temple of the God of Love, lies 
to the N.W. of Bhaironath and 
near the Machodri garden, is built 
of old Hindu remains, like the 
Ganj-i-shahid fp 64) It is very 
old. of the 12th century, and quite 
interesting. In the Victoria Park 
is a statue of the Queen-Empress. 
The King Edward ^T]. Hospital, 
built by gentry of Benares to 
commemorate the visit of Edward 
VII., then Prince of Wales, to the 
city in 1876, is on the main road 
from the Cantonment to Raj Ghat. 
The Town Hall was built at the 
sole expense of a Maharaja of 
Vizianagram. The visitor may 
also look for Lord Curzon’s his- 
torical tablets at (i) Madho Las’s 
garden, (2) Nandeswar House, 
(3) Mint House opposite {2), {4) 
Sivala, (5) Tulsi Las’s house, 
behind the Kotwali (not the one 
on the river) ; also for Swami 
Bhashkaranand's marble tomb 
and shnne combined, in white 
marble, next to the IMonkey 
temple, all well worth seeing ; 
also a Raja’s temple overhanging 
Manikarnika Ghat, one of the 
best temples from an artistic 
point of view. 

The palace and tort of the 
^laharaja of Benares at Ranmagar, 
on the right bank of the Ganges, 
may be visited by permission, to 
be obtained from the Secretary 
to His Highness. It stands 
above a fine Ghat, and affords 
a splendid view of the river front 
of Benares. The iVlaharaja was, 
a few years ago, granted the 
powers of a Ruling Chief in his 
domain. 

There are no European shops. 


but petrol can sometimes be 
obtained at a shop which supplies 
motor requisites. 

SARNATH 

SaruatU/ the site where Buddha 
preached, is some 4 m. N. of 
Benares, not far from the high 
road to Ghazipur, which is left 
at the third milestone. Shortly 
after turning to the left two 
towers are seen — the Chau khan di, 
on a hill : the other the Lhamekh 
stupa {Fergusson’s Ind^ Arch, 
I, 73) The road journey is an 
easv drive and the road is metalled 
all the way : it would be a waste 
of time to go by tram, but Sarnath 
can also be reached by the line B. & 
N.^V. from Benares to Man junc- 
tion and Bhatni A more direct 
route, of which traces still remain, 
seems formerly to have connected 
Benares with Sarnath 

According to the earliest infor- 
mation, Sarnath was known as 
the “ Leer Park,” or " Fall of the 
Sage,” and is prominent in one 
of the Jataka, or Birth-stories of 
the Buddha. In his lifetime his 
five early attendants retired there 
for meditation aftei^ forsaldng 
their master ; there Buddha first 
made known his doctrines to the 
world. Buddhists have always 
revered the spot where he sat and 
preached as holy ground. The 
Chinese travellers — Fa-Hian, atthe 
beginning of the 5 th century ; 
Hiuen Tsang, between 629 and 645 
A D . — visited the site The former 
mentioned two monasteries as 
existing in the Leer Park, and four 
memorial topes, which he saw. 
The latter, Hiuen Tsang, described 
more fully the whole sangharama 
(monastery) as he saw it. He 
mentioned 1500 priests in the con- 
vent, a vihara 200 ft, high, a figure 

1 See the Guide to the Buddhist X uins of 
Sarnath^ by Dayaram Sahi.i, M A , Supci- 
intendent, Hindu and Buddhist Monuments, 
Northern Circle Calcutta, 4917- 

^ Dhamekh is a corruption of Dharm- 
eksha, the pondering of the Law. 



72 


ROUTE 4 


BENARES 


India 


of Buddha represented as “ turn- 
ing the wheel of the Law” — t.e., 
preaching — Asoka’s stone stupa, a 
stone pillar 70 ft. high, three lakes, 
other monuments, and the most 
magnificent stupa of all, 300 ft. 
high. Samath was probably des- 
troyed when Kutb-ud-din, Shah a b- 
ud-din Ghori's General, devastated 
Benares in 1194 a d. It is certain 
that after the overthrow of 
Buddhism in India Sarnath was 
completely deserted. 

The stupa locally known as the 
Dhamekh Tower (a little to N.E. of 
a modern Jain temple) consists ” of 
a stone basement 93 ft. in dia- 
meter and sohdly built, the stones 
being clamped together with iron, 
to the height of 43 ft. Above that 
it is in brickwork, rising to a height 
of 104 ft. above the terrace of 
the temple, and 143 ft., including 
its foundations. Externally the 
lower part is relieved by eight 
projecting faces, each 21 ft. 6 in. 
wide and 15 ft. apart. In each is 
a small niche, intended, appar- 
ently, to contain an image, and 
below them, encircling the monu- 
ment, is a band of sculptured 
ornament of the most exquisite 
beauty. The central part of this 
b^nd conaiists of geometric pat- 
terns of great intricacy, but com- 
bined with singular skill, while 
above and below are rich floral 
arabesques, the whole being pecu- 
liarly characteristic of the art of 
the Imperial Guptas. The carv- 
ings round the niches and in the 
projections have been left unfin- 
ished, and judging by the absence 
of any fragments either in stone 
or brick or plaster around the 
stupa, it seems not improbable that 
the upper part of the tower was 
never completed.”^ 

In his examination of the 
Dhamekh Tower General Sir A. 
Cunningham found, buried in the 
brickwork, an inscribed stone 
with the Buddhist formula “Ye 
dharmma hetuprabhava, ” etc., 

i Memorandum bj’ the DIrector»General 
o f A rcli aeology i n India. 


said to be in characters of the 
7th century, a record held by the 
latest opinion to be contemporary 
vith the last rebuilding of the 
stupa (Fergusson, Ind. Arch., i., 
72-75, ascribed the erection of this 
Samath monument to the nth 
century) . It is believed that the 
lowest stratum of brickwork repre- 
sents the first stupa on this spot, 
which was afterwards built over 
and enlarged to the dimensions 
as they now appear. 

Some 500 ft. to the W. of the 
Dhamekh Tower there was another, 
called the Jagat Singh stupa (from 
the name of a Diwan of the Raja 
Chait Singh, of Benares, who had 
it dug for bricks, now a mere shell, 
ah the core having been removed ; 
the innermost existing ring has a 
diameter of over 44 ft. On the 
discovery of this stupa in 1794 
and the valuables found therein, 
Sarnath became a favourite hunt- 
ing-ground for treasure - seekers, 
and cartloads of images and terra- 
cottas are said to have been 
carried away. The sculptures and 
carvings found have been dis- 
tributed between the Indian 
Museum, Calcutta, and the hand- 
some Museum at Sarnath itself, 
erected in a style in keeping with 
the associations of the place. 
Numerous finds, made before and 
since 1905, are arranged in it, and 
there is a good but expensive cata- 
logue with a useful introduction. 
Since 1905 the Archaeological De- 
partment have undertaken the 
thorough exploration of the rvhole 
Sarnath site, and have done a good 
deal of work here 

A conspicuous structure is to be 
seen some 20 yds. due N. of the 
Jagat Singh stupa, named the 
“hlain Shrine,” which both “served 
as a shrine and formed the centre 
of numerous smaller memorials 
built round it. It is a rectangular 
building measuring 95 ft. by 90 ft., 
with doubly-recessed corners, and 
still standing to a height of some 
iS ft. It is built partly of stone, 
partly of brick, and much of the 



ROUTE 4. 

former material, at any rate, has 1 
been taken from earlier stmctures, ' 
notably of the Gupta period. ’ 
From the thickness of the original I 
walls and the additions subse- i 
quently made to them in the ; 
interior of the building, it is evi- I 
dent that they were intended to | 
support a massive and probably ‘ 
lofty superstructure, but what 
design this superstructure had 
there is at present no means of ] 
ascertaining." A ^mall stupa in I 
the S. chapel of the Mam Shrine I 
is surrounded by a stone railing, 
one of the most interesting and 
valuable treasures discovered at 
Sarnath, cut entire from one 
single block of stone, and the 
chiselling and polishing of the 
stone have been executed with a 
skill which it would be impossible to 
surpass. Two inscriptions noticed 
' ’ll !i art- n(..t earlier than the 3rd or 
|tli ceiilury A.D , but its workman- 
ship connects it with the epoch of 
the Emperor Asoka (272-231 b.c.). 
f he iMain Shrine belongs approxi- 
mately to the nth century ad. 
Round the Main Shrine was a con- 
crete pavement, 40 ft. square, 
covered with numerous chapels, 
stupas, and monuments of brick, 
plaster, and stone, ranging from 
the Kushana period (45-225 ad.) 
to the nth or 12th centur50 
To the W. of the Main Shrine 
is the broken shaft of the Asoka 
sandstone column. There is only 
a stump in situ now : the capital 
is in the Museum, where it has the 
P\tice of honour. The portion 
still standing measures 16 ft. 8 in. 
in height, with a diameter of 2 ft 
d m. at the bottom. The upper 
part of the shaft, with the capital, 
’ay broken against the side of the 
shrine. . The whole height, includ- 
ing the capital, appears to have 
been about *50 ft. The capital, 
’which measures 7 ft. high, is of 
the Persepohtan bell-shaped type, 
surmounted by four magnificent 
hons sitting back to back with a 
heel between them- -symboUsing 
■the law^ of the Buddha, which w^as 


SARNATH 73 

first promulgated at Sarnath. 
Beneath the lions is a drum orna- 
mented with four animals in 
rehef — viz., a lion, an elephant, a 
bull, and a horse — separated from 
each other by four w^heels. The 
four crowming hons and the reliefs 
below are w^onderfully vigorous 
and true to nature, and are treated 
with that simpUcity and reserve 
which is the keynote of all great 
masterpieces of plastic art. India 
certainly has produced no other 
sculpture to equal them. That 
the column was set up by the 
Emperor Asoka is evident not only 
from its character and style, but 
from the presence of an edict of 
that Emperor on the portion still 
in situ. This edict enjoins that 
whatsoever monk or nun creates 
schisms in the sangha should be 
made to put on white clothes and 
reside outside the convent His 
Sacred Majesty further urges that 
his order should also be made 
knowm to the lay-members. The 
superintendents of the sacred law 
should also familiarise themselves 
with the edict, and make it known 
in their own circles and elsew^here." 

Most of the area excavated 
under the pavement is occupied 
by a large rectangular chamber or 
court measuring 48 It by 28 ft , 
with a variety of other structures 
adjoining it. This chamber was 
surrounded on three sides by a 
raiUng of Maury an date (321- 
184 E c.), built into the brickw'ork 
of the walls. Much of this raiUng 
has, unfortunately, perished, but 
the position of all the columns and 
cross-bars is clearly marked by 
indentations in the brickw'ork. 
The excavations have been ex- 
tended some distance on every 
side of the Main Shrine, disclos- 
ing numerous small chapels and 
stupas, separate and in groups, 
some in perfect preservation, and 
yielding numbers of sculptures 
from the rehc chambers. The 
Northern— called the Monastery— 
.\rea has already revealed ppts of 
tour monasteries, three being of 



74 


ROUTE 4. BENARES 


India 


the 3rd, the largest 01 the nth or 
12th century a.d. 

Much of the debris has been 
cleared from a large stupa about 
half a mile to the S. of the 
Dhamekh Tower, The mound 
in which this stupa lay buried is 
known locally as the Chaukhandi 
or square ” mound, and on its 
summit is an octagonal brick 
tower, erected by the Emperor 
Akbar in 1588 a.d. to commemor- 
ate a visit of his father, Humayun, 
to the spot. An inscription in 
Arabic characters on a stone slab 
above the doorway contains the 
following record : “As Huma- 
yun, king of the Seven Climes, 
now residing in paradise, deigned 
to come and sit here one day, 
thereby increasing the splendour 
of the sun, so Akbar. his son and 
humble servant, resolved to build 
on this spot a lofty tower reaching 
to the blue sky. It was in the 
year 996 a.h. that this beautiful 
building was erected." It is 
believed that the whole sang- 
harama at Sarnath, as elsewhere, 
was surrounded by a massive 
circuit wall, 9 ft. thick and of very 
solid construction, which it is 
intended to follow up along its 
whole extent. 

The sculptures ^ brought to light 
at Sarnath “ divide themselves 
naturally into four groups — the 
first comprising those of the 
Mauryan epoch, the second those 
of the Kushana epoch, the third 
belonging to the age of the Im- 
perial Guptas, and the fourth 
including all later examples. The 
chief examples of Mauryan work 
are the Asoka column and capital, 
the railing in the iMain Shrine, 
portions of another railing, and 
two separate capitals. The Kus- 
hana group is represented mainly 
by two colossal pieces of carving, 
one a Bodhisattwa statue standing 

See Catalogue of the Museuf/iof A rcJueo- 
lo?y, Sartiath, by Daya ram Salmi, M.A,, 
Assi'^tant Superintendent Archasological 
Survey, Calcutta, 1914, Rs.3/12 ; obtainable 
from the Custodian of the Museum. 


ft. high, the other a gigantic 
umbrella measuring lo ft. across, 
and adorned on its under surface 
with designs of animals, religious 
symbols, and geometric patterns." 
One fact, now made abundantly 
clear, is that the most important 
building age at Sarnath was the 
age of the Imperial Guptas (320- 
455 A.D.) ; yet more — they estab- 
lish the existence of an important 
and vride-reaching school of sculp- 
ture at that epoch, and open up 
for us an almost new chapter in 
the history of Indian Art. The 
Gupta origin of the famous 
Dhamek stupa is now no longer 
doubted ; its decoration is repro- 
duced in one or other of the Gupta 
sculptures recently unearthed. 
“ This Gupta style exhibits many 
semi-classical affinities, due to the 
influence exerted on it by Maur- 
yan, and still more by Gandhara 
Art. Its pervading spirit, how- 
ever, and the decorative ‘ motifs ' 
which peculiarly distinguish it, 
are essentially and indisputably 
Indian. Of these motifs the most 
characteristic are floral arabesques 
treated with superb grace and 
boldness, and often enriched by 
the addition of human figures 
clinging in supple attitudes among 
the foliage. Geometric designs, 
too, of an intricate but never 
bemldering nature, play an im- 
portant Yole in the schemes of 
decoration ; while motifs bor- 
rowed from jewellery are perhaps 
more conspicuous in this than in 
any other school of Indian Art. 
No less characteristic is the treat- 
ment of human figures, which are 
free from the exaggerated develop- 
ment that repels us from most 
Indian Sculpture, and which at 
the same time possess other 
" ■ ■ ’ ’ ^ 'at make 

Among tne Gupta sculptures are 
two bas-reliefs of special interest— 

I one in eight panels, referring to the 
I eight chief places of Buddha’s life, 
while the other depicts events 
thereof. There are various in- 



ROUTE 5. CALCUTTA CITY AND ENVIRONS 


75 


scrip tions, also, of importance on 
statues, images, and seals, which 
help to fix dates and the name of 
the monastery where Buddha’s first 
sermon was delivered namely, 
hharmachaErapravarttana vihara, 
or. short, Dharmachalrra. The i 


difficulty is to identify the build- 
ings as they now are with those 
mentioned by the Chinese travel- 
lers. Two of the buildings, the 
Monastery Xo. i, and the Main 
Shrine, are later than the date of 
Hiuen Tsang. 


route 5. CALCUTTA 


CITY AND ENVIRONS 


INDEX 


Ah pur 
Arsenal 

Asiatic Societj’^ of Bengal 
Ballygunge . 

Bandel . . , ' 


Burtackpore 
Belvedere (formerly Lt -G 
Residence) 

Bishop’s College 
Black Hole , 


overnoT :> 


Budge Budge .... 
Calcutta University Senate House 
Cathedrals— 

St Paul’s ..... 

^ Roman Catholic 
Chandernagore .... 

Chinsura " 

f hurches — 

Armenian . 

C'reek 

Old ilission 


St Andrew's, or Scotch Kirk . 
Si John’s (Old Cathedral) 
rh j mas’s Roman Catholic) 
Synagogue . . . . 

Dalhousie Institute 
Diamond Harbour 

i-lutii Dum , ... 

Empress Victoiia, All India 
^ Memorial Hall. 

^ugaieeiing (Civil) College 
Forts— 


Old Fort . 
M’^ilham 
Garden Reach 
Gardens — 

-"^gri- Horticultural 
Botanical . 

Eden 

Zoological 
Government House 
^igh Court 
Hooghiv 


Hospitals— 

Medical College Hospital 
Ezra . . . . 

^Campbell . . . . 

Hufferin . . . . 

General . 


Military 

^layo 

Eden 


ACK 



PAGE 

37 

Howrah ..... 


95 

39 

Jain Temple 


93 

S4 

R.alighat ... 


80 

So 

Maidan ... 


79 

oS 

Metcalfe Hall .... 


9 ^ 

94 

Mint 


92 


Mis-sions .... 


93 

87 

Mosque of Prince Ghulam Muhammad 

82 

86 

Museums — 



90 

Economic. 


84 

90 

Indian ..... 


82 

92 

Commercial 


So 


Ochterlony Monument 


82 

St 

Post-Office ... 


89 

92 

Public Buildings .... 


79-85 

07 

Racecourse 


37 

00 

Ivailway Stations — 




Howrah (E I R- and B.X. R3 ) 


95 

91 

Sealdah (E. Bengal Ry ) 


92 

9 - 

Mutla and Diamond Harbour 


92 

91 

Secretariat of Bengal Government 


qo 

90 

Seramporc . ... 


05 

90 

Statues — 



83 

tjueen -Empress 


Si 

91 

King Edward .... 


3 i 

So 

Lord Auckland 


So 

ICO 

Sir S Bayley .... 


89 

95 

Lord W, Bentinck . 


80 


Lord Canning .... 


So 

86 ; 

Lord Curzon 


79 

C 3 1 

Lord Dalhousie 


89 

1 

The Maharaja of Darbhanga . 


89 

89 i 

Lord Dufferin .... 


85 

88 i 

Sir Ashley Eden 


80 

88 j 

Sir Andrew Fraser . 


89 


Lord Hardinge 


81 

87 i 

Lord Hastings 


89 

93 i 

Lord Kitchener 


85 

80 . 

Lord Lansdowne 


85 

87 1 

Lord Lawrence 


81 

81 

Lord Mayo .... 


82 

80 1 

Lord Minto .... 


85 

07 1 

Lord Napier of Magdala 


88 

1 

Lord Northbrook 


80 

93 ' 

Sir James Outram . 


85 

92 

Sir W. Peel .... 


80 

92 ] 

Lord Kipon .... 


8S 

92 

Lord Roberts . 


85 

87 ! 

Sir John Woodburn 


89 

87 1 

Telegraph Office . 


So 

92 1 

Town Hall ..... 


80 

92 ' 






76 ROUTE 5 . CALCUTTA 

History. — The capital of the { 
Bengal Presidency^ is of more 
recent birth than the capitals of 
the two sister Presidencies, dating 
only from 1690, when Hooghly, 
at which a settlement had been 
established forty-eight years pre- 
viously, was abandoned in favour 
of the present site, on which the 
three villages of Sutanati, Kali- 1 
kata, and Gobindpur then stood, 
Mr Job Charnock being the leader 
of the merchants who settled here. 
These estates were formally sold 
to the East India Company by the 
Governor of Bengal, Prince Azim, } 
son of the Emperor Aurangzeb, in j 
1700, some four years after the 1 
construction of the old Fort j 
William (p 89). In 1707, Bengal, 
where Calcutta then had a popula- 
tion of 10,000, was formed into a 
separate Presidency independent 
of Madras ; and it continued to 
flourish, owing to its favourable 
position at the gate of the prin- 
cipal waterways of N. India, until 
1756, when, the fort not being 
defensible, it was attacked and 
taken by the Nawab of Murshi- 
dabad, Suraj-ud-daula, in return 
for the burning of Hooghly by 
British vessels. Most of the 
British, including the Governor, 
fled down the river in ships to 
Falta ; those who remained and 
attempted a defence became the 
victims of the historical tragedy 
of the Black Hole on 20th to 
2ist June {see p. 90). T.ate in 
December Colonel Clive arrived 
with troops from Madras and 
with ships under Admiral Watson. 
Calcutta was retaken by them on 
2nd January 1757 ; the Nawab's 
position was attacked on 4th 
February, and his forces were with- 
drawn from near the town. After 
some negotiations an agreement 
was entered into by which the 

> Busteed’s Echoes frovi Old L alcutta 
contains much information abor.t the place 
at the end of the i3th century lllechyn- 
den’s Calcutta. Past and Present and Fir- 
minger’s Guide to Calcutta, aie aho full of 
interest. 


CITY AND ENVIRONS India 

Nawab promised to restore the 
trading privileges of the Company 
and return the property plundered 
in Calcutta. Shortly afterwards a 
conflict ensued between the French 
and British, which ended in the 
capture of Chandernagore by the 
latter on 23rd March. Encour- 
aged by the French in his service 
and by proffers of support from 
the Mahratta Chief of Nagpur. 
Suraj-ud-daula ultimately refused 
to accept an exclusive alliance with 
the British, and this led in due 
course to the Battle of Plassey, on 
23rd June 1757, and Suraj-ud- 
daula’s death. Mir Jafir, the next 
Nawab, gave the English the 
zemindari of the 24 Parganas, as 
well as a free gift of the town and 
some of the adjacent villages. 
Heavy compensation was paid to 
the merchants and the Company’s 
servants for their losses, and per- 
mission was granted to establish a 
mint. From this date the town 
enjoyed uninterrupted prosperity. 
With part of the compensation 
money received from the Nawab, 
Gobindpur was cleared of its in- 
habitants and the foundations of 
the present fort were laid. In 1 7 73 
the present Fort William was. after 
construction for fifteen years, com- 
pleted at a cost of two millions ster- 
ling, half a million of which was 
spent to protect the west face from 
the erosion of the river. The clear- 
ing of the jungle round the fort led 
to the formation of the Maidan, 
and the European quarter, which 
was located between Canning 
Street and Hastings Street, began 
to extend southwards along Chow- 
ringhi. In 1774 Warren Hastings, 
who had become Governor of 
Bengal two years previously, was 
made the first Governor- General 
of Bengal, and given authority 
over Bombay and Madras, and the 
Supreme Court of Calcutta was 
established. The old Cathedral of 
St John was built between 1783 
^ and 1787, and the Bishopric of 
j Calcutta was created m r8i ^ the 
i first Bishop being Dr Middleton, 



ROUTE 5. CALCUTTA HISTORY— PORT 


and the second (1823), Reginald 
Heber. Government House was 
erected between 1797 and 1803, 
the Town Hall in 1804, and the 
^lint between 1824 and 1830. 
'\hile the Botanical Gardens at 
Sibpur, on the right bank of the 
Hooghly, were created after the 
^dieme was approved in 1787. It 
v.ill thus be seen that some of the 
finest buildings in Calcutta are of 
much earlier date than those of 
Bombay and Madras. In 1852 
Calcutta was created a Munici- 
pality — although there had been 
some semblance of municipal 
government smce 1727 — and in 
1854 passed with the rest of 
Bengal under the direct control 
of a Lieutenant - Governor ; in 
1857 it received its Univer- 
sity. In 1862 the Legislative 
Council of the Lieutenant-Gover- 
nor was created, and in 1865 the 
Corporation, consisting of Justices 
of Peace for the town of Calcutta 
in lieu of the Municipality. The 
Chamber of Commerce dates from 
1834^ and the Port Trust Com- 
mission, which consists of fifteen 
members, from 1870 (see p 78). 

The population of the city alone 
IS now 896,067 ; with the subur- 
ban municipahties it is 1,043,307 ; 
and with Howrah it is 1,222,313. 
fa 1911 it was distributed as 
follows : — 


Hindus 

^ht};ammadaus 
( ’ll rkt Ians . 
jews . 

Otheis 


604,553 

241-337 

J9-55I 

I,9IQ 

3-157 


The increase has been very large 
Since the first census was taken in 
but the area of the city 
^nsus has also changed greatly. 
Ihe census of 1911 gave an in- 
J^fease of only 5.7 per cent, over 
mat of 1901, the reason being that 
mere has been a movement of the 
population to the suburbs of 
Calcutta owing to the high cost of 
living and the clearing out of in- 
sanitary areas. Early in the last 
century the population was about 
-00.000, and in 1850, 400,000. 


77 

The Port of Calcutta is the 
leading port of the East. Its 
pnncipal features are worthy of 
the attention of all visitors. Cal- 
cutta was originally selected as a 
site for trade It stands on the 
left bank of the Hooghly, the great 
waterway which carries to sea 
the immense volume of exports 
brought down to Calcutta by the 
railways, and by which the bulk 
of the imports enter. The Port 
proper extends from Garden 
Reach to Cossipore, over 9 m. 
There are anchorages for ocean- 
going steamers, docks, jetties, and 
wharves. Every facility is afforded 
to trade, and improvements are 
always in progress. From the 
Calcutta-Howrah pontoon bridge 
the distance is 82 m. to the Sagar 
Island Lighthouse at the entrance 
to the river, and 122 m. to 
the Eastern Channel Lighthouse, 
where the pilot vessel awaits 
ocean-going steamers. The navi- 
gation of the Hooghly requires the 
service of skilled pilots and the 
unintermitted survey of the shift- 
ing channels of the river. 

The enormous trade oi the Port 
has been largely affected by the 
War, so that the latest figures 
available (of 1915—16) would not 
be correct for normal times. 
The expansion of trade appears 
from the following figures : in 
1 901-2 (excluding inland vessels 
and coasting craft) 1347 vessels of 
4.5 75^267 tons gross entered the 
Port; in 1915-16 there rvere 
1150 vessels of 4,848,961 tons. In 
the same period the income of 
the Port Trust rose from £520,000 
to / 1, 06 2, 364 (including War sur- 
charges amounting to £179,845). 
The value of the total foreign 
trade (merchandise only) of the 
Port has risen from 6o|- million 
pounds in 1903-4 to ^93,050,815 
in 1915-16 ; and the grand total 
of trade (foreign, coasting, inland 
vessels together) from 86| million 
pounds to £109,069, 400. The 
principal articles of export are 
jute, raw and manufactured, 



KOUTE 5. CALCUTTA CITY AND ENVIKnxq 


India 


7 ^ 


grains and pulses, tea, oii-seeds, 
hides and skins, opium, shellac, 
raw cotton, manganese and pig- 
iron ; the coal exports have risen 
from 78. 000 tons in 1S95 to 
1,610,645 tons. The imports con- 
sist chiefly of cotton goods, metals 
sugar, illuminating and lubricat- 
ing oils, machinery, railway 
matenalb, hardware, cutlery, medi- 
cines, paper, rice from Burma, 
sugar from Java mi-,cellaneoub 
goods of European manufacture. 
The value of the imports 
was /36, 456, 280 compared with 
-(58,762,374 of exports 
A most useful ferry service on 
the river was started in 1907, with 
seven steamers, to which four w ere 
added m 1910 'Idiere arc now 
thirteen. These steamers pl\ 
from daylight to dark, some on 
crossings, others on the round 
trips m the Northern and Southern 
parts of the Port. About 
9,795,700 passengers used thi^ 
steamer ferry service in 1915— lO. 
Starting from Chandpal Ghat, 
near the High Court, a visitor can 
make an enjoyable trip up and 
dowm the river. The duckb. 


1 


I 


wharves, landing-stages, and other i 
arrangements for trade and pas- , 
sengers wall w'ell repay a visit. 

The Port is administered by the ‘ 
"Port Tru.st," w^hich consists of the ' 
Chairman, usually a member of , 
the Board of Revenue, five nom- | 
mated and nine elected represen- i 
tative commissioners, and the I 
\’ice-Chairman, who is the ad- ' 
miiuslrative Head oi the Port | 
The present Vicc-CIiairman. ^Ir H. | 
J. Hilary, is now serving in 
Prance, and Mr S. C Williams, 
the vSecretary, is officiating lor 
him. This “ Port Trust ' is one 
of the most efficient and 5ucce.-5^ful 
bodies in India. 

There are about 250 factories 
and mills in and, chiefly, round 
Calcutta, employing over 300,000 
daily operatives. 

Calcutta, for municipal purposes, ' 
is divided into four districts, com- | 
prising tw’enty-flve w^ards. In 


each district there is a resident 
District Engineer and a District 
Health Officer, who attend to all 
local needs The income of the 
Corporation .iiut'iunt'- to ii ^ lakiu>. 
derived chiefly from a consolidated 
rate, a tax on trades and profes- 
sions, and a tax on vehicles and 
animals. There is a municipal 
debt ui 4^0 laLlis 111 tile ic>rin ot 
municipal loan.'^. 

The Corporation consists now’ 
of fifty members — twenty - five 
elected and twentv-hve appointed 
by Government, or nominated by 
certain special bodies. The entire 
executive pow’er is vested in the 
Chairman, who is appointed by 
Government, to be exercised sub- 
ject to the approval or sanction of 
the Corporation or General Com- 
mittee, whenever this is expresslv 
directed in the Act To the Cor- 
poration are reserved the right ol 
fixing the rates of taxation and 
all those general function'^ which 
can be efficiently performed bv a 
large body. The General Com- 
mittee stands betw'cen the deliber- 
ative and executive authorities, 
and deals with those matters 
wiiich are ill-adapted for discu.s- 
sion by the whole Corporation, 
but yet are too important to be 
left to the disposal of the Chairman 
alone. The present Corporation, 
W'hich w’as created by the Act of 

1899, and came into existence in 

1900, has amply justified its exist- 
ence, as very great improvement.^ 
have been eSected in w'atcr supply, 
drainage, road paving, and con- 
servancy, and municipal amenitie.s 
generally. The huge elevated 
iron reservoir at Talla, 2 m. N. 
of Calcutta, to give the city a 
continuous and increased w’ater 
supply, w’hich w’as recentlv com- 
pleted, IS the second largest of its 
kind in the w’orld. There are now 
270 m. of ro.ids, 247 m of sewers, 
366 m. of filtered w’ater mam, and 
274 m, of unfiltered water main, 
the latter being used for road 
watering and sew’er flushing. 

The further improvement 



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ROUTE 5. MAIDAN, QUARTERS, E. AND S, 


79 


and expansion of Calcutta has, 
by an Act of 1911, been en- 
trusted to a Board of twelve 
trustees, with a Chairman at the 
head, appointed by the Govern- 
ment, with certain guaranteed 
income from transfer duty, ter- 
minal tax on passengers. Customs ' 
duty on jute, and contributions j 
from the Mumcipality and Govern- j 
ment The Trust have devised, j 
and partly or entirely carried 
through, several important 
schemes for opening up congested 
areas, laying out or widening 
streets and providing open spaces. 
Substantial improvements arc 
already noticeable in the neigh- 
bourhood of Kolutolla, N.W. of 
the Medical College Hospital, 
where highly insanitary bastis 
have been demolished and several 
fine wide streets have been laid 
out. A park and playground have 
been projected in Shambazar, and 
several wide roads driven through 
that highly congested area. Russa 
Road has been widened to 150 ft. 
and now gives a most pleasant 
drive from Chowringhi to Tolly- 
ganj. Large improvements have 
bten made m the Bhowanipur 
area ; two model dwellings on a 
sufficiently large scale have been 
constructed to house people dis- 
possessed of their homes by the 
operations of the Trust. 


Calcutta is situated in lat. 22° 
34 h long. 88° 24'. It is the head- 
quarters of the Government of the 
Lower Provinces of Bengal. The 
principal Lieutenant-Governors of ‘ 
Bengal since 185 t have been Sir ^ 
F- J. Halliday, Sir J. P. Grant, Sir ! 
G. Campbell, Sir R. Temple, Sir ! 
Ashley Eden, Sir S, Bay ley, and I 
Sir C. Elliott. The Lieutenant- ; 
Governor, Sir John Woodburn, 1 
died in office in 1902. The last i 
Lieutenant-Governor was Sir E. N, | 
Baker, the Province being con- ' 
verted into a Governorship when j 
Lord Carmichael of Skirling, j 
G.C.I.E., K.C.M.G., entered on 1 


office as Governor on ist April 1912. 
He has been succeeded by the Earl 
of Ronaldshay, who took office on 
26th March 1917. The transfer of 
the capital of India from Calcutta, 
and the creation of a Presidency 
of Bengal were announced by the 
King-Emperor at His Majesty’s 
Darbar at Delhi on 12th December 
1911, and, though this ahected 
Calcutta to a certain extent. His 
Majesty, in replying to the Corpora- 
tion’s address in Calcutta, declared 
that it “ must always remain the 
premier city of India.” 


(1) The Maidan and Quarters 
East and South of it. 

The centre of Calcutta is the 
famous Maidan (plain, or park), 
bounded on the W. side by the 
Hooghly nver and the Strand 
Road, and on the E. side by 
Cliovringhi Road , it is nearly 2 m. 
long, and is f m, broad at its head, 
and i-J m. broad at the S. end. 
Government House, the residence 
of the Governor, faces it on the N., 
while Belvedere, where the Lieu- 
tenant-Governors of Bengal lived, 
is not far removed from the 
Southern limit. In the centre of 
the W. side is Fort William, and 
on or near the E. side are the 
principal hotels, the United Ser- 
vice and Bengal Clubs, the Army 
and Navy Stores, and the Indian 
Museum ; in the N.W. corner are 
the Eden Gardens, and in the S., 
from W. to E., are the Racecourse, 
the Victoria Memorial, in course 
of construction immediately N. 
of the old Presidency Jail (since 
dismantled and removed to AU- 
pore), the Cathedral, and the 
Calcutta Club. The Strand Road 
above the river bank affords fine 
views of the shipping and water 
traffic ; another main road, known 
as the Red Road, runs down the 
centre of the Maidan from N. to S. 

Lord Curzon’s Statue has been 
placed N. of the A'lctoria Memo- 
rial, on the new road constructed 



8 o 


ROUTE 5. CALCUTTA CITY AND ENVIRONS 


India 


across the Maidan, in continuation 
of the Theatre Road. 

The Eden Gardens, for which 
Calcutta is indebted to the sisters 
of Lord Auckland, are beautifully 
laid out, and were for many years 
the principal evening gathering- 
place of Calcutta society. In 
them is the Calcutta Cricket- 
ground, arid on the side of the 
water is a picturesque Burmese 
Pagoda brought from Prome, and 
set up here in 1856. Close to the 
S.W. gate is the statue of Sir 
VViiham Peel, the famous Com- 
mander of H.M.S. Shannon, who 
served with his crew at Lucknow 
under Sir Cohn Campbell (p, 41 1), 
and died of smallpox at Cawnpore 
after the final relief of the Resi- 
dency ; and on the N. side are 
the statues of Lord Auckland, 
Lord Wilham Bentinck, and Lord 
Northbrook; Lord Canning, is N.E. 
of the gardens W. of these, on 
the river bank, are Babu’s Ghat 
(where is a swimming-bath), the 
boathouse of the Calcutta Rowing 
Club, the fine Outram Landing 
Ghat, recently constructed by the 
Port Commissioners for the con- 
venience of passengers arriving 
and leaving by sea-going steamers, 
and the Chandpal Ghat, affording 
a fine view of the river. It was 
at this Ghat that the members of 
the Supreme Council sent from 
England, and Sir Ehjah Impey and 
the Judges of the Supreme Court, 
landed in October 1774. A httle 
farther up stream the building of 
the Bank of Bengal faces the 
Hooghly ; and beyond this are the 
principal jetties extending for 
i m. up to the floating bridge, 
1500 ft. long and 48 ft. wide, 
constructed in 1873-74 ^ cost 

of a quarter of a milHon. From 
Chandpal Ghat the broad Esplan- 
ade Row leads to the E., passing 
the High Court, the Town Hall, 
and Government House, and end- 
ing at DharmtoUa Street, from 
which point Chowringhi Road 
leads S. along the E. side of the 


Maidan : and Bentinck Street, 
continued as Chitpur Road, lead^ 
to the extreme N. point of the city 
on the river bank. 

The High Court, built in 1872, 
after the Town Hall at Ypres, is a 
fine building, lately considerably 
extended, with a tower 180 ft. 
high. The extension recently 
added is connected by an over- 
bridge : it contains the Session 
Court and some other Courts and 
offices. The Chief Justice's Court 
is in the S.W. comer. The Courts 
of Original Jurisdiction are at the 
N.E. and S.E. corners. In the E. 
face is the Barristers’ Library. 
The Attorneys’ Library is in the 
E. corner ; and here is a portrait 
of Justice Norman. In other 
pubhc rooms are portraits of Sir 
Wm. Burroughs, by Lawrence, 
1818 ; Sir Wilham Macnaghten, 
by Chinnery, 1824 ; Sir Elijah 
Impey, by Kettle, 1778 ; and the 
Honourable Shambu Nath Pandit, 
the first Indian Judge. In the 
Chief Justice’s Court are the pic- 
tures of Sir R. Garth, and of Sir H. 
Russell, by Chinnery, 1872, robed 
in red ; Sir John Anstmther, 
1805 ; and Sir E. Impey, by 
Zoffany, 1782. At the head of 
the Chantrey’s staircase is a statue 
of Sir Edward Hyde East, 1821. 
In the Judges’ Library are six 
pictures of Justices Trevor, H. B. 
Harington, and John Russell 
Colvin, who died at Agra in 1857 
(p. 237), and opposite these, of 
Sir Ed. Ryan, Sir Robert Cham- 
bers, and Sir Lawrence Peel. 
Among the records of the Court 
is that of the trial of Nuncomar, 
by Sir Elijah Impey and two other 
judges and a jury. There is a 
garden in the centre quadrangle, 
with a fountain in it. 

The Town Hall, standing W. of 
Government House, was built by 
the inhabitants of Calcutta in 
1804, and cost lyo.ooo. The style 
is Doric, with a fine flight of steps 
leading to a portico on the S. 


ROUTE GOVERNMENT HOUSE 8 1 


The carriage entrance is to the N. 
under a portico. The centre of 
the building is occupied by a 
tine hall 162 ft. long and 65 ft. 
broad. In the S. front is a central 
room, 82 ft. long by 30 ft. broad, 
and two smaller rooms. In the 
S vestibule is a marble statue ol 
Warren Hastings, by R. West- 
macott, R.A., standing between a 
Aluhammadan kazi and a Hindu 
pandit. At the W. end of the 
lower saloon is a marble statue by 
J. Bacon, jun., of the Marquis 
Cornwallis, who is thus repre- 
sented in all the three Presidential 
capitals of India. This statue 
was erected by the British in- 
habitants of Bengal, 1803 a.d. 
In the hall is a statue of jMaharaja 
Ramanath Tagore. In the vesti- 
bules are busts of the Duke of 
Wellington, Sir Proby Cautley, 
Sir Henry Prinsep, Sir Henry 
Cotton, and several others ; and 
portraits of Warren Hastings, 
Cord Lake, Lord Gough, Lord 
Minto, Lord Elgin, Sir C. Metcalfe, 
Sir H. Durand, Dwarkanath 
Tagore, Bishop Johnson, Mr Wil- 
berforce Bird. Sir Henry Norman, 
Rr Duff, Bishop Wilson, Sir 
William Grey, Sir Rivers Thomp- 
son, Sir Henry Harrison, Sir 
Charles Allen, and Babu Keshab 
Chandra Sen ; also of Lady 
Dufferin, Lady Lansdowne, and 
Lady Minto. There are also full- 
length portraits of Queen Victoria 
and Prince Albert, presented by 
Her Majesty to the city of Cal- 
cutta. 

Governmeni House is situated in 
a fine enclosure of 6 acres, standing 
hack from the Mai dan, which is 
here dignified by the J ubilee statue 
of the Queen-Empress Victoria, 
unveiled in 1902; near it are the. , 
statues of Lord Lawrence, Lord ; 
Canning, and Lord Hardinge. The | 
Queen’s statue, the work of I 
Hr Frampton, will ultimately be 
hansfenred to the Queen-Empress 
Memorial Hall ; and the statue of 
Ring Edward VII., entrusted to Mr 


I JMackennal, ^vill probably be placed 
' here. 

I Government House was begun 
! under the JMarquis Wellesley (the 
architect being Captain Wyatt), 

' and finished in 1803, the design 
' being copied to a limited extent 
from that of Kedleston Hall, 
Derbyshire, built by Adam. In 
the breakfast-room at the head of 
the fine staircase is a well-executed 
I white marble statue of the Marquis 
Wellesley, with portraits of the 
I same Governor- General, and of 
j the Earl of Ellenborough. The 
J Dinwg-room is of wlfite chunam, 
j with a floor of veined white 
, marble. On either side are six 
well-executed marble busts of the 
Ccesars, taken from a French ship 
at the end of the i8th century. 
The Th/one-rGom is so called from 
its containing the Throne of Tipu 
Sultan. East of this is the Council 
Room, where the meetings of the 
Bengal Legislative Council are 
no\v held. There were a number 
of fine pictures, mostly of the 
past Governors-General ; the well- 
known historical pictures known 
as the jMysore Collection ; and 
some land- and sea-scapes. Most 
of these have been removed from 
Government House, Calcutta, and 
are intended for the new Govern- 
ment House at Delhi. 

Above the dining-room and the 
adjoining rooms is a splendid ball- 
room. The floor is of polished 
teak, and the ceilings are beauti- 
fully panelled, after designs by 
Air H. H. Locke. The chandeliers 
and the portrait of Louis XV. are 
said to have been captured from 
the French at Chandernagore in 

1757* 

On the N. side of Government 
House is a fine brass 32-pounder, 
taken at Aliwal, and inscribed 
in Gurmukhi. On either side 
IS a 6-pounder brass tiger-gun, 
taken from Tipu Sultan. There 
are also two large brass guns in- 
scribed “ Miani, lyth February ” 
and ’’ Hyderabad, 30th of Alarch 
1843 ” ; and another with a car- 



82 KOUTE 5. CALCUTTA 

riage representing a dragon, which 
IS a trophy of the peace of Pekin, 

1842. 

On the Esplanade, E., 13 the 
enormous and magnihcent edifice, 
consisting of hundreds of resi- 
dential suites of rooms, with all 
modern conveniences, known as 
the Esplanade Mansions, which 
almost overshadow Government 
House : next to it are the Locke ! 
Buildings (Walter Locke & Co.), , 
and the new premises of Messrs ; 
Thacker, Spink & Co, Almost j 
all the buildings on this side have 
been reconstructed, and the ap- 
pearance IS very pleasing. i 

At the N, angle of Dharmtolia 
Road is a large mosque erected 
during the Government of Lord 
Auckland, by Prince Ghulam 
Muhammad,! son of Tipu Sultan 1 
(killed 1799), in gratitude to God, 
and in commemoration of the 
Honourable Court of Directors 
granting him the arrears of his ; 
stipend in 1840 ; and in the N. ! 
side of the Maidan are the Curzon 
Gardens, nicely laid out on the 1 
site of what was an insanitary ! 
tank, with the tramway terminus j 
and a picturesque shelter shed on ! 
the E., and with the Ochievlony \ 
Monument on the S. side of it, : 
This is a column 165 ft. high, 
raised in 1823 in honour of Sir \ 
David Ochterlony , who brought the 
Nepal war (i8i4-i6)toa successful ; 
conclusion, and was afterwards ■ 
Resident in Malwa and Raj pu tana. 
From the galleries a fine view over 
Calcutta is obtained. 

At the head of Chowringhi Road 
are the handsome premises of 
Messrs Whiteaway, Laidlaw & Co. 
—one of the finest in the city. 

Beyond the Royal Theatre and ; 
the Continental and Grand Hotels ! 
in Chovvringhi Road is the Indian 
Museum. In front of the former 
on the Maidan are the Monohar ' 
Das Tank and the statue of Lord ; 
Mayo, while to the E. of them lie , 
the newly-constructed municipal ; 

1 This gentleman died in 1878. ! 


CITY AND ENVIRONS India 

offices, worthy of the city and 
containing a fine Council Chamber 
fashioned after the Chamber of 
Deputies in Paris, and the Sir 
Stuart Hogg Market, which, with 
the recent extensions, is now the 
finest in the East ; the Empire 
Theatre, built on up-to-date lines, 
the Elphinstone Picture Palace, 
the Hindustan Insurance Build- 
ings which house the finely- 
e quipped Calcutta Fire Brigade ; 
and beyond them, on Wellesley 
Road (which wdth Wellington 
College, and Cornwallis Roads 
form the second great thorough- 
fare from S. to N.) stands the 
Muhammadan College, known as 
the Calcutta Madrasa. 

The Indian Museum, 27 Chow- 
ringhi Road, IS an immense build- 
ing which, with the addition of 
the new wing, has a frontage of 
312 ft. 240 ft. = 552 ft. The build- 
ing actually occupied by the 
iMuseum, together with the labora- 
tories and the libraries, are : — 

(1) The main quadrangle facing 
the Chowringhi Road. 

(2) The new wing in continua- 
tion of its front. 

(3) The Sudder Street block, 
connected with the main 
building by two bridges. 

(4) The East Block of three 
floors at right angles to the 
Sudder Street block, and 

(5) The Central Residential 
Bungalow, built in 1790, 
which subsequently became 
the seat of the Sudder Dewani 
Court, and so gave its name 
to Sudder Street. 

The entrance is from Chow- 
ringhi Road by a pillared vestibule, 
in which the most conspicuous 
objects are the stone figures of a 
hon and a bull that once stood on 
the capitals of edict pillars erected 
by Asoka in Northern Bihar. 
These are among the oldest 
sculptures in the Museum. The 
ground floor of the quadrangle 
has a colonnade in Itahan style 



ROUTE 5. i: 

and surrounds an open turfed 
space. The N. side of the colon- 
nade is occupied by Geological 
Galleries (the ^Iineral and Aleteor- 
ite Galleries), the E. side by a 
Zoological Gallery (the Inverte- 
brate Gallery) and the S. side 
by Archuological Gallenes (the 
Gupta, Asoka, and Inscription 
Galleries) . Another Archaeological 
Gallery (that of the Bharhut Stupaj'^ 
opens direct from the vestibule 
on the S. side, as does also a 
Geological Gallery" (that ot the 
Sivahk Fossils) on the N, The 
Bharhut Stupa Gallery leads to 
the I ndo- Scythian Gallery, which 
has another extensive gallerv on 
Its S , devoted also to archseologv, 
and is surrounded by a hanging 
balcony, from which at the S. end 
a few steps lead to a strong room 
m which the Collection of Coins is 
kept. The N.E. corner room in 
the ground floor of the main 
building is the Insect Gallery, which 
leads by a brnlge to the first 
storey of the Sudder Street Block, 
in which is the Bthnographiccil 
Gallery. In the centre of the 
landing on the first floor of the 
^iain Building stands a marble 
statue of Empress Victoria. Be- 
hind the statue is the entrance to 
tne Library of the Zoological Survey 
oj India, containing a collection 
of about 15,000 volumes, which is 
increasing lately at the rate of 
over 600 volumes a year. N. and 
S. from the library extend gal- 
lories in which Zoological Collec- 
tions are stored for purposes of 
research On the N. side is a 
gallery containing Fossils; in the 
VE. corner room is the Small- 
>^ammal Gallery from 'which a 
bridge extends to the Industrial 
Gallery in the second storev of the 
budder Street Block. The Large 
mammal Gallery occupies the E. 
^ide ; while the S. end contains 
Bird and Reptile and the Fish 
Galleries, The first floor of the 
new wing is allotted to the Art 

^ See Fergusson's Ind. Arch,, i. 104*110. 


sDIAN MUSEUM 83 

, Section, and may be entered from 
the Fish Gallery, This is the 
Ariware Court, where art collec- 
tions are shown in three main 
classes— (i) textiles, (2) metal, 
i wood, ceramic, etc., and (3) 

: pictures. 

I The second floor extends along 
! the whole iengtli of the W. side of 
! the Main Building and the new 
I wing. There is a large public 
! lecture-hall on this floor, the rest 
j of which is devoted to the labora- 
I tories of the Zoological and 
I Anthropological Section, the ofiices 
of the different departments, and 
j a large gallery in this, at the S. end, 

: IS in the occupation of the Art 
I Section. 

I The Sudder Street block, besides 
j containing the Ethnographical 
I gallery on the first storey and 
Industrial Gallery on the second, 

' houses a library, herbarium, 

I laboratory and offices of the In- 
1 dus trial and Botanical Sections. 

The E, block of three floors 
houses the of&ces, laboratories 
and the library of the Geological 
Survey of India, the exhibits of 
the Section being shown in the 
four galleries, the Siwalik, the 
Meteorite, the ^Mineral and the 
Fossil Galleries in the Main Build- 
ings. There are now in the 
Museum about 12,000 specimens 
of minerals, over 26,000 of rocks, 
10,000 of microscope shdes, and 
over 112,000 of fossils. Complete 
Catalogues of the various Sections 
are obtainable. 

The Bharhut sculptures are 
among the most interesting in 
all India ; a number of them are 
inscribed with the name of the 
Jataka or Sacred Story which 
they represent. 

The most interesting objects are 
some carved rails from Bharhut 
and Buddh Gaya ; but among the 
objects from Muttra may be 
noticed a figure of Buddha, 6 ft. 
high, with a halo behind the head, 
carved with floral devices, and in 
the Gandhara Collection a portion 
of a frieze representing six naked 



84 ROUTE 5 . CALCUTTA 

boys, quite classic in design, and a 
domestic scene, suggesting the 
Stable at Bethlehem. 

The archaeologist will find here 
selected pieces from the most 
famous ancient buildings in India. 
There are interesting fragments of 
Buddhist art from the caves of 
Orissa, from Sanchi and Buddh 
Gaya, from Muttra and Sarnath, 
near Benares ; the collection of 
Graeco - Buddhist and Indo- 
Scythian sculptures is very fine. 
In the separate Asoka Gallery 
are casts of all the rock edicts of 
that King. 

Amongst the Siwalik Fossil 
Remains may be observed the 
Hyaenarctos or Hyaena- Bear ; the 
Amphicyon, a dog-like animal as 
large as the Polar bear ; the 
Machairodus or Sabre-tooth tiger, 
whose canine teeth were 7 in. long ; 
also the Siwalik cat, which was at 
least as large as a tiger. There 
is the skeleton of an elephant 
1 1 ft. high. Amongst Siwalik birds 
there are the shank-bone and the 
breast-bone of a wading- bird as 
big as an ostrich. This bird has 
been called the Megaloscelornis, 
and these bones are the only ones 
belonging to this species existing 
in the world. In the Upper 
Palaeontological Gallery there are 
many bones of the Dinornis. 
Amongst the reptiles a crocodile, 
from Matla, 18 ft. long, and a 
snake of the Python species, of 
the same length, are to be noticed 
The remains of the Crocodilus 
crassidens are those of an extinct 
species of enormous dimensions. 
There is also a specimen of the 
Siwalik Colossochelys, a gigantic 
tortoise of prodigious size. It will 
be noticed that whereas all the 
species and many of the genera of 
the Siwalik Mammals and Birds 
are entirely different from those 
inhabiting the earth, all the genera 
of the Reptiles have living repre- 
sentatives in India. The Collec- 
tion of the Fossil Vertebrata of 
the Siwaliks is the most complete 
and comprehensive in the world. 


CITY AND ENVIRONS India 

As to Minerals, it may be said 
that most of the diamonds ex- 
hibited are Indian — from Bundel- 
khand, S. India, and Sambalpur. 
There are also models of the most 
celebrated diamonds, such as the 
Regent, the most perfect brilliant 
in existence, the Koh-i-Nur, the 
Great Nizam, etc., all of which 
were obtained in India. Amongst 
the Meteorites may be remarked 
the model, No. 16, of one which 
fell on the 23rd of January 1870, 
at Nedagolla, in the Madras 
Presidency. The original weighed 
over 10 lb. 

The adjoining Economic Museum 
contains fine samples of the pro- 
ducts of the native manufactures 
of the country. It occupies a 
quadrangular building, in which 
the Calcutta International Exhibi- 
tion of 1883-84 was held. The two 
museums are visited by over half 
a million of persons annually. 
Next to the I radian Museum on 
the S. side is the Bengal School of 
Art, an Institution similar to that 
of Bombay, with over 300 pupils. 

At the corner of Chowringhi and 
Kyd Street is the United Service 
Club House, founded in 1845, and 
just beyond it, at the corner of 
Park Street, is the Bengal Asiatic 
Society. This institution was estab- 
lished in 1784 by Sir William 
Jones, and led to the foundation 
of the Royal Asiatic Society in 
London by Mr H. T. Colebrooke. 
Visitors can be elected members. 
The Asiatic Researches began to 
be issued in 1788, and continued 
to be published until 1839. The 
Journal began in 1832, under 
the auspices of Professor H. H. 
Wilson and Mr James Prinsep. 
who first deciphered the famous 
rock and pillar inscriptions of 
King Asoka, and from that time 
to 1839 both publications were 
issued. The library contains over 
15,000 volumes, and there is a 
large collection of valuable MS., 
coins, copper plates, pictures, and 
busts. The pictures include one 



ROUTE 5. ST PAUL S CATHEDRAL 85 


oi Warren Habtmgs, and one of 
Sir William Jones as a boy, by 
Sir Joshua Reynolds. 

Farther down Park Street, East- 
wards, on the right, is St Xavier’s 
College, with a fine science labora- 
tory and astronomical observatory, 
in the S. Park Street Cemetery is 
buned Landor’s Rose Aylmer (&ed 
1800) ; the grave is marked by a 
'-olumn spirally fluted. Here also 
lies Lucia, the uife of Robert Palk, 
idyllised by Mr Rudyard Kip- . 
ling, Sir John Clavering, Colonel | 
Monson, Sir William Jones, and 
Augustus Cleveland (p. 419). In 
X. Park Street Cemetery, opposite, 

IS the grave of W. M. Thackeray’s 
father, who died 1815. 

In front of the W. end of Park 
Street is the fine equestrian statue 
of Sir James Outram, and farther 
on, facing the E. approaches to 
Fort William, that of Lord 
Luflerln, N. of wliich, on the Red 
Road, are the statues of Lord 
Hoberts. f.ord Kitchener, Lord 
Kipon. Lord Minto, and Lord 
hansdowne. 

Chownnghi Road runs S. liom 
Park Street, past the sumptuous 
edifice of the newly - constructed 
Eengal Club (founded 1827, and 
occupying the site on which 
Lord Macaulay once lived) and 
the residential quarter par excel- 
lence of Calcutta society, to the 
Cathedral of St Paul’s. Halfway 
IS the superb pile of buildings of 
the Army and Nav}' Stores, 
further S. is King Edward’s 
Court, a fine pile of buildings, 
<-ontammg numerous elegant flats, 
With all modern conveniences, 
constructed by the Real Pro- 
perty Co. Off Middleton Street 
are St Thomas’s Roman Catholic 
Church, a handsome building com- 
iiienced in 1841, and the Convent 
<^f Our Lady of Loretto. 


St Paul’s Cathedral was designed 
by Major W. N. Forbes in 1819, 
oonimenced in 1839, and opened 
m 1S47 > it is 240 ft. long and 80 


ft. broad, and the spire is 200 ft. 
! high. The style is Hindu-Gothic, 

, or spurious Gothic modified to 
' suit the climate of India. In the 
' vestry of the Cathedral is a large 
! folio MS. volume entitled " His- 
tory of the Erection of St Paul’s 
Cathedral,” which contains a plan 
: of the Cathedral at p. 265. Over 
the porch is a hbrary, left to the 
public by Bishop Wilson, and here 
IS an excellent bust of that Bishop. 
The west window, designed by 
Sir E. Burne Jones, is a memorial 
to Lord Mayo. The original East 
window was given by the Dean and 
Chapter of Windsor, to whom it 
was presented as a gift by George 
III. for St George’s Chapel. 
Beneath it are mosaics. The 
Communion Plate was ^ven by 
Queen Victoria. The building 
cost £50,000, of which the Bishop 
gave £20,000, half of which, how- 
ever, went to endowment 

On the left side of the vestibule 
is a black marble tablet to sixteen 
officers of the Bengal Engineers, 
who feU during the Indian Mutiny 
in the years 185 7-5 8. It is orna- 
mented with sixteen bronze medal- 
lions and a relief representing the 
gallant blowing up of the Kashmir 
Gate, Delhi, by Lieutenants Sal- 
keld and Home (p. 258). Next 
are a tablet to fifteen officers who 
fell in the Bhutan campaign and 
an elaborate monument in memory 
of John Paxton Norman, of the 
I Inner Temple, officiating Chief 
' Justice of Bengal, who was assas- 
sinated on the steps of the Town 
Hall when entering the High Court 
(then located there) on 20th 
September 1S71. Beyond is the 
tablet to seven officers of the 68th 
Regiment N.I., ” who died during 
the Mutiny of the Native Troops, 
and subsequent operations, from 
1857 to 1859, some on the field of 
battle, some by the hands of their 
own followers, others from disease 
— all doing their duty.” 

Then follows a tablet to Mr 
William Ritchie, of the Calcutta 
Bar and Inner Temple, who died 



S6 


India 


ROUTE 5. CALCUTTA 

in 1862, a member ot the Council of 
the Governor-General, the inscrip- 
tion by W. M. Thackeray, who 
was a cousin of Mr Ritchie’s On 
the left is a tablet to Sir H. M. 
Lawrence, adorned with a medal- 
hon portrait in white marble. In 
the centre of the left wall of the 
passage from the vestibule to the 
transepts and body of the Cathe- 
dral IS a monument to Lord Elgin, 
who died at Dharmsala in 1863. 

There is also m the centre oi 
the transept a good statue of 
Bishop Heber, the second Bishop 
of the Diocese, by Chan trey. 

The upper part of the steeple 
fell during the great earthquake 
of 12th June 1897, but has 
been restored. Among the latest 
memorials is one of Sir John 
Woodburn, Lieutenant-Governor 
of Bengal (1898-1902), and another 
erected by Lord Curzon to the 
members of Lumsden’s Horse who 
fell in the S. African War. The 
organ is one of the finest ever 
made by ISIessrs Willis 

The mam road, running S. and 
E., to the E. of the Cathedral, leads 
past the suburb of Bally gnnge, with 
the residences of many Europeans. 
On the left of the road is the 
Alexandra Court — a pile of build- 
ings containing several suites of 
rooms with all English conveni- 
ences, constructed b}^ the Real Pro- 
perty Company — and farther on 
the London Missionary Societ\^*s 
Institution ; and on Ihe Lower 
Circular Road, running to the E. of 
Chowuinghi, an:l leading to Hilly- 
gunge, are the Bishop’s College and 
the Martiniere Schools. Consider- 
ably to the N., is St James’ Church, 
which can contain a congregation 
of 700. In the cemetery in the 
Lower Circular Road are buried 
Sir Wm. Macnaghten, murdered 
in Kabul, James Wilson, the 
financier ; Justice Korinan , and 
Sir John Woodburn. 

Kalighat, celebrated as the site 
of a temple in honour of the god- 
dess Kali, the wife of Siva, lies 


CITY AND ENVIRONS 

i about I J m. S. of the Cathedral, on 
! the bank of Tolly’s Nulla, an old 
’ bed of the Ganges. The place, 

I after which the present capital of 
India is named, denves sanctity 
, from the legend that when the 
corpse of Siva’s wife was cut in 
pieces by order of the gods, and 
I chopped up by the disc (sudarsan 
\ chakra) of Vishnu, one of her 
I fingers fell on this spot. The 
I temple is supposed to have been 
built about three centuries ago. 
A member of the Sabarna Chau- 
dhury family, who at one time 
owned considerable estates in this 
part of the country, cleared the 
jungle, built the temple, and 
! allotted 194 acres of land for its 
! maintenance A man of the name 
1 of Chandibar was the first priest 
i appointed to manage the affairs 
of the temple. His descendants 
have now^ taken the title of Haidar, 
and are at present the proprietors 
I of the building. The principal 
! religious festival of the year is on 
I the second day of the Durgapuja, 

' m October, when the temple is 
visited bv crowds of pilgrims 
W of the Cathedral, on the edge 
ot the Maidan, the ITesidency 
Jail used to stand near the site of 
which the All India Memorial Hall 
j of the Queen-Empress Victoria, 
originated by Lord Curzon, is 
! being erected ; the subscriptions 
i for the memorial amounted to 
about sixty lakhs of rupees. It 
has been designed by Sir Wm. 
Emerson in the style of the Italian 
Renaissance, and consists of a 
magniffeent building standing on a 
terrace 6 ft. to 7 ft. high and sur- 
mounted by a dome rising 160 ft. 
above the Maidan. The construc- 
tion has been entrusted to Messrs 
i jMartin & Co., under the super- 
vision of Mr V. J. Esch, Superin- 
tending Architect. The w^hole 
structure wall be cased with white 
I marble. Under the dome will be 
j the Central Memorial Hall, built 
; entirely of Indian marble ; other 
j principal apartments will be the 
I Darbar and Princes’ Halls, The 



ROUTE 5. VICTORIA MEMORIAL HALL — RACECOURSE 87 


io Liadatious were begun in 1905, 
and the toundation-stone was laid 
by King George V., then Prince ot 
Wales, on 4th January 1906. Con- 
siderable progress has been made 
under the fostering care and 
monthly visits of Lord Car- 
michael, and much of the diffi- 
culties about obtaining sufficient 
quantities of marble from the 
Merkara Quarries in Rajputana 
has been overcome . the walls of , 
the first storey and part of the ^ 
second are nearly complete, 40 ft. | 
to 50 ft. high, in some portions | 
higher still ; and the dome is 
rising. It is hoped the hall may 
he completed in 1920. Lord 
Curzon has undertaken to collect 
objects of historical interest in 
Lngland. His late Majesty King 
Edward VII. contributed a large 
collection of the relics of his 
august mother and paintings 
depicting important Court func- 
tions. His Majesty King George 
V. has liberally contributed a com- 
plete set of valuable engravings 
depicting Her late Majesty's hfe 
from childhood to advanced age ; 
and the Indian Princes and 
Kobles have contributed a large 
assortment of historical objects. 
The Government of India and 
Provincial Governments have 
added most valuable holographs 
and documents, and the City of 
Calcutta has transferred many of 
Its statues and busts of Indian 
officers of renown. The trustees 
have been adding relics and pic- 
tures illustrating the august reign. 
Queen Alexandra has sent two I 
busts, one of His late Majesty and 
one of herself. Her IMajesty 
Queen Mary has contributed a 
large collection of Indian prints 
depicting the stirring events of 
the evolution of the Empire and j 
the world-famed ancient architec- ; 
ture of Hindustan. The collection ! 
has been temporarily located in 
historical Belvedere, the residence | 
of the former Lieutenant-Gover- 
nors of Bengal, kindly placed at 
the disposal of the trustees by 


j His Excellency Lord Carmichael. 
[ On the farther side of the Lower 
] Circular Road are the General and 
I Military Hospitals ; and beyond 
I them and opposite the Racecourse 
! the ’Alipur Road, crossing Tolly's 
I Nulla, leads to the Zoological 
I f^ardens and Belvedere, and the 
' Agn-Horticultural Gardens. The 
Zoological Gardens were inaugur- 
ated in 1875-6, and comprise an 
area of 36 acres well laid out, and 
a fair show of animals in houses 
presented by various Ruhng Chiefs 
and wealthy persons The tigers, 
leopards, crocodiles, and snakes 
are usually the finest On the S. 
side of the gardens is the 'Alipur 
Observatory 

BeWedere House stands in exten- 
sive and well-kept grounds. His 
Excellency the Governor having 
given it up as his residence, the 
Victoria Memorial exhibits have 
for a time been housed m it At 
a spot W. of the entrance of Bel- 
vedere, on the 'Allpur Road, was 
fought, on 17th August 1780, the 
duel between Warren Hastings 
and Sir Philip Francis, in which 
the latter wns wounded. S. of 
Belvedere are the Agri-Horticul- 
tural Gardens, commenced here 
m 1872, and managed by that 
Society, which was founded in 
1S20; and still farther S., off 
judge’s Court Road, once stood 
Hastings' private residence, for 
some years known as Hastings 
I House," and later as the State 
; Guest House inaugurated by Lord 
Curzon. It is now a residential 
school for the better classes of 
Indian boys. 

In 'Alipur a large number of 
fine residential houses have been 
built, and it is now the finest 
suburb of Calcutta, cool, clean 
and shady. 

The Racecourse, which is 2 m. 
long, is one of the most famous in 
India, and the Christmas race 
meeting, in which the King- 
Emperor 's Cup and the Viceroy's 



88 


India 


ROUTE 5. CALCUTTA CITY AND ENVIRONS 


Cup are run for, is one of the prin- 
cipal society events of the winter 
season in Calcutta. The bridge 
S.W. of it, across Tolly's Nuha, 
leads to Kidderpore, so called 
after Colonel Kyd, who con- 
structed the Government Dock- 
yard, near which the Port Trust 
has excavated magnificent new 
docks. Between 1781 and 1821 
ships were built at the Kidderpore 
Docks at a cost of more than 
£2,000,000, and in 1818 the 
Hastings, a 74 - gun ship, was 
launched there. The new wet 
docks enclose an area of 10 and 
30 acres respectively, in addition 
to which there are two dry docks ; 
the sum spent over this improve- 
ment has exceeded two and a half 
crores of rupees. In Kidderpore is 
St Stephen's Church. 

The last bridge near the river, 
named Hastings Bridge, leads past 
the Government Dockyard, the 
docks, and the P. & O. premises, 
to Garden Reach, once known for 
its palatial suburban residences, 
and of late years as the home of 
the last of the Kings of Oudh, 
Wajid Ah, who was deposed in 
1854, and survived his deposition 
by more than thirty years. It 
was considered necessary to place 
him inside Fort Wilham during 
the summer of 1857. 

This is the shortest route for 
visiting the Botanical Gardens 
(p. 93), on the right side of the 
nver; but, unless the boat used 
in crossing is detained at the other 
side, there may be some difficulty 
in regaining the left bank. 

At the W. extremity of Garden 
Reach, or in its vicinity, was 
situated the small fort of 'Ahgarh, 
and opposite to it, on the other 
bank of the river, was the fort of 
Tanna, both of which were taken 
by Clive in the recapture of Cal- 
cutta in 1756-7. 

Turning N. from the Hastings 
Bridge, St George’s Gate of Fort 
William (S.W. corner) is reached 
in half a mile. On the way is 
passed Cooly Bazar, near the site 


[ of widen Kuncomar -was hung for 
I the offence of forgery on 5th 
' August 1775. In front of the gate 
j is a statue of Lord Napier of 
[ Magdala, opposite Prinsep'a Ghat. 

I This, now some distance inland 
j since the reclamation of the fore- 
I shore and the excavation of the 
t new docks, is marked by a paviUon 
I of stone, supported by pillars, and 
! inscribed “ James Prinsep,” in 
' memory of the great Oriental 
scholar, who died in 1840 from 
over-devotion to the pursuits in 
which he so greatly excelled, 
i Farther N., and opposite the 
Water Gate of the Fort, is the 
Gwalior Monument, erected by 
Lord Ellenborough in 1844, in 
memory of the officers and men 
who fell in the Gwalior campaign 
of 1843, and designed by Colonel 
I W. H. Goodwyn, Beng. Eng. It 
I is of brick faced with Jaipur 
I marble, surmounted by a metal 
j cupola made from guns taken from 
the enemy. In the centre the 
names of those who fell at the 
battles of Maharajpur and Panniar 
are engraved on a sarcophagus. 

Fort William originally received 
its name from William III. The 
site was changed in 1757, after the 
I battle of Plassey, from that now 
occupied by the Post - Office to 
the river bank farther S., where 
Clive commenced a new and much 
more formidable fortress, which 
was finished in 1773. at a cost, of 
t £2,000,000. It IS an irregular 
[ octagon, enclosing an area of 2 sq. 

' m., of which five sides look land- 
i ward and three on the river, and 
is surrounded by a fosse 30 ft. 
deep and 50 ft. broad, which can 
be filled from the river. The 
garrison consists of two regiments, 

I one British and one N.I., and one 
' company R.G.A. There are six 
gates — Chowrmghi, Plassey, Cal- 
I cutta. Water Gate, St. George's 
and Treasury Gate. There is also 
a sally port between Water and 
St. George's Gates. A wireless 
installation has been put up out- 



ROtJTE 5. QUARTERS N. OF MAIDAN AND GOVERNMENT HOUSE 89 


bide the Water Gate. Inside the 
Chowringhi Gate, past the Gov- 
ernor’s residence, now used as a 
Soldiers’ Institute and Garrison 
School, is the Fort Church of St 
Peter, built in 1828 The Catholic 
Chapel, St Patrick’s, was built in 
1S57. The Mihtary Prison behind 
this is built on a massive store- 
house, on which is an inscription 
relating to the amount of nee and 
grain deposited there by the 
authorities in 1782. Over the 
Treasury Gate are the quarters of 
the Commander-in-Chief in India 
while at Calcutta ; the offices of 
the Army Headquarters now re- 
main all the year round at Simla. 
The Arsenal is worth a visit, for 
which permission must be obtained 
from the officer commanding the 
Fort. The submarine IMining 
depot is also accommodated in 
the Fort ; it cannot be visited. 

[ 2 } Quarters North of the Maidan 
and Government House. 

To the W. and E. of Govern- 
ment House lie the magnificent 
offices now vacated by the Govern- 
ment of India and partly used b)' 
the Government of Bengal offices, 
h[. of Government House, Old 
Court House Street on the E., 
Wellesley Place in the centre, with 
sumptuous quarters for H.E. the 
Governor’s staff, and Council 
House Street on the W., lead to 
Dalhousie Square,^ with a fine 
garden and tank in the middle of 
it, the second approaching the 
square opposite the Dalhousie 
Institute. This was built “ to 
contain rvithin its walls statues 
and busts of great men.” The 
foundation-stone w'as laid m 1865, 
hut the entrance portico preceded 
it, having been built in 1824. The 
hall is Lined with marble, and 
measures 90 ft. by 45 ft. It con- 
tains a statue of the Marquis of 

* This was formerly known as the Lai 
Paejh. and the tank is still known as the 
Lai (red) Dighi. 


Hastings, by Flaxman, and also 
statues of the Marquis of Dal- 
housie and of the Rt. Hon. James 
Wilson and busts of Edward E. 
Venables, of Brig. -General Neill, 
C.B., and Sir Henry Havelock, by 
Noble ; and of Sir James Outram 
and General John Nicholson, by 
Foley. Within the square are the 
statues of Sir Steuart Bayley, Sir 
A. Eden, Sir Andrew Fraser, Sir 
T. Woodburn, and the Maharaja of 
Darbhanga. On the E. side of 
the square is the Currency Office 

On the S.W. corner, at the junc- 
tion of Council House Street and 
Hare Street is the magnificent 
pile of buildings constructed for 
the Commerce and Industry De- 
partment of the Government ot 
India, now' converted into a Corn- 
mercial iMuseum. Facing it is 
the fine building of the Alliance 
Bank of Simla, and an imposing 
structure for the Hongkong and 
Shanghai Bank is being erected. 

In the S.E. corner is the fine 
Telegraph Office, and on the W , 
side is the large domed building of 
the General Post-Office, occupying 
part of the site of the Old Fort It 
cost Rs. 630,5 10, and occupies an 
area of 103,100 sq. ft. The dome 
at the S E. corner is over 220 ft 
high. The Old Fort William lay 
betw'een Bankshall Street, now 
Koila Ghat Street, on the S., and 
Fort Ghat Street, now Fairlie 
Place, on the N. Its W. side 
fronted the river. The W. and E. 
w'alls were 710 ft. long, the N. side 
measuring 340 ft. and the S side 
485 ft. After it was abandoned as 
a fort it w'as used as a Custom- 
house until the river moved away 
from the site. Part of the original 
arcades, which served as w^are- 
houses on the S.W. side of the 
interior, may still be seen inside 
the yard of the Post-Office, where 
they are used as a waggon-shed ; 
and, where possible, the outlines of 
the Fort have been indicated on 
the ground. At the N E. cornei 
of the Post-Office is a tablet inside 
an arch, wffiich indicates the actual 



90 ROUTE 5. CALCUTTA 

site of the Black Hole ^ of 1756, 
which, by the care of Lord Curzon, 
has been paved with black marble. 
The exact size of the hole was 
22 ft. by 14 ft., and its height was 
probably 16 ft to 18 ft.; and into 
it were forced on the night of 20th 
June 146 human beings, of whom 
twenty-three only survived the 
next morning The old obelisk 
memorial of the tragedy, erected 
by the principal survivor, Mr J. Z. 
Holweli, was renovated in hont 
of the Calcutta Collectorate, at the 
expense of Lord Curzon, in 1902 ; 
the inscription originally borne by 
it has been modified in the restora- 
tion. Mr Holweli, who was on the 
Calcutta Council from 1768-72, 
and was’ most unjustly removed 
from the Service by the Directors 
of the E.I. Company, died in 
England at the age of eighty-seven 
in 1798. 

From the N.W. corner of 
Government House, Hastings 
Street leads towards the river, 
past the old Cathedral Church of 
St John, in an enclosure shaded 
with trees. In the porch, is, now, 
the Tomb of Lady Canning, 
brought from Barrackpore. It 
consists of a base of white marble, 
with a sarcophagus, on which is 
inlaid a cross with flowers. Out- 
side the Church, to the N of the 
W, entrance, is a domed pavilion 
about 50 ft. high with twelve 
pillars. It is said to ha\^e been 
erected in commemoration of 
those who fell in the Rohilla War, 
but, strangely enough, is without 
inscription. 

The church, which was begun 
in 1783 and opened in 1787, is 
136 ft. long and 70 ft. wide. 

* The so-called Black Hole was merely a 
lock-up for drunken or disorderly soldiers of 
the garrison of the Fort, and was simply a 
portion of a sleeping barrack in the S.E. 
corner of the Fort, enclosed from the rest of 
the building. The barrack w’as situated just 
to the N. of the S.E. bastion, and the Black 
Hole W'as therefore between the bastion and 
the barrack. View’s of the Old Fort and of 
Holwell’s monument are among Daniell’v 
drawings of Calcutta. 


CITY AND ENVIRONS India 

The W. vestibule has on the left 
a large picture of the Last Supper, 
painted and presented to the 
churchby John Zoffany, 1733-1810, 
in which the Apostles are aH por- 
traits of certain well-known inhabi- 
tants of Calcutta In the E. end of 
the nave is the grave of Bighop 
Middleton, first Bishop of Calcutta 
(died 1822), and among the 
memorials are those of Colonel 
Kirkpatrick, Resident at Hydera- 
bad at the end of the i8th century, 
Mr Alexander Colvin, Dr. James 
Ward, and others. 

In the N.W. corner of the grave 
yard is the large octagonal mauso- 
leum of Job Charnock, the founder 
of Calcutta, 24th August 1690, 
who died in January 1692. In 
this is also now a tablet to Surgeon 
William Hamilton, who in 1716, 
having cured the Emperor Far- 
rukhsiyar, obtained for the E.I. 
Company the right of importing 
their goods free of duty, and other 
great privileges. 

A few yards to the S. is the tomb 
of Admiral Charles Watson, who, 
with Clive, retook Calcutta (died 
1 6th August 1757). It has a 
large square base, supporting an 
obelisk, inscribed to his memory. 

On the N. side of Dalhousie 
Square are the buildings of the 
Bengal Secretariat, on the site of the 
Old Writers’ Buildings, where so 
many illustrious Indian statesmen 
commenced their career. Opposite 
these are the statues of the Lieu- 
tenant - Governors Eden, Wood- 
burn, and Bayley. The buildings 
all round Dalhousie Square are 
imposing edifices worthy of the 
Second City in the Empire. 

E. of Writers' Buildings is the 
Scotch Kirk, Si Andrew’s, situated 
in Radha Bazar, and called by the 
natives Lai Girja, or Red Church. 
It cost £110,000, was opened in 
j 18 1 S, and seats 500 persons. In 
i the vestry there is a portrait of 
Dr James Bryce, the first minister, 
by Sir John Watson Gordon, and 
there are some handsome monu- 
ments \vithin the church. It sends 



Route 5, old mission church — metcalfe hall 


a representative to the General t 
Assembly at Edinburgh. Directly 
E. of the Kirk is the Lai Bazar and 
its continuation, the Bow Bazar 
'^Treet, leading to the Sealdah rail- 
v.ay station of the Eastern Bengal 
State Railway. Several fine build- 
ings have been erected on this 
street, which is almost exclusively 
occupied by cabinet-makers. 

New handsome Pcflice Offices 
have been built and are still under 
construction, the Lai Bazar Police 
Court having been removed from 
its old site— that for the S. of the 
town being located in Bankshall 
Street, in what used to be the 
office of the Board of Revenue, 
and that for the N. of the town in 
the old Free Church Institution 
fDuff College) m Nimtoliah Street 

A little to the E. of the square, 
in Mission Row, is the Old Mission 
Church, called the Purana Girja, or 
Old Church, in the vernacular. It 
i? 125 ft. long from E. to W., 
and 81 ft. 10 in. broad, and seats 
A 5^ persons. It was built by 
the celebrated missionary, Johann 
Zachariah Kiernander, who was ! 
horn at Azted, in Gothland, j 
Sweden, in 1711, and educated at I 
the Universities of Upsala and , 
Halle. Being offered a post as 
missionary, he left England in 
1758, and opened a school in Cal- 
cutta. His second wife on her 
death left valuable jewels, with 
which he founded a school. He 
called his church Beth Tephilla. 
‘‘House of Prayer." When blind 
he was deceived into signing a bond 
wliich ruined him, and the church 
^'^as seized by his creditors, but 
redeemed by Mr Charles Grant for 
Us .10,000. Mr Kiernander then 
^'ent to Chinsura, and died in 
poverty at Calcutta in 1799. 
There is a window in the church 
presented by his grandson, and 
there is a good engraving of him 
in the jMission Room, with an 
inscription in German. There are 
many interesting tablets in the 
church, particularly one to Mr 
Charles Grant and one to the Rev. , 


91 

Henry Martyn {1781-1812), also to 
Bishop Dealtry of Madras (1796- 
1861), to Bishop Daniel Wilson 
{177S-1858), and to an Arab lady of 
distinction who was converted to 
Christiamty. 

The steeple was so seriously 
injured by the great earthquake 
of 12th June 1S97 that it wat, 
necessary to rebuild it 

From the S.W. comer of Dal- 
housie Square, Hare Street leads- 
also towards the river, and passes 
the Small Cause Courts, to the 
Metcalfe Hall, founded in honour 
of Sir Charles IMetcalfe by public 
subscription, and built 1S40-44. 
The design is copied from the 
portico of the Temple of the Winds 
at Athens. The building, which 
formerly contained a neglected 
Public Library, was in 1903 con- 
verted into an effective Imperial 
Library of Reference at the in- 
stance of Lord Curzon. Tickets 
of admission to the reading-room 
are freely granted to strangers. 
On the river front, to the N. of 
this, are the Sailors’ Home and 
the fine offices of the Port Trust, 
'ro the S. is the Bank of Bengal, 
recently extended. 

N. of Dalhousie Square and S. 
of Harrison Road (a new broad 
thoroughfare ' leading from the 
Hooghiy Bridge to the Sealdah 
station of the Eastern Bengal 
Railway) is what is knowm as the 
commercial quarter, and of late 
several palatial buildings have 
been constructed in Clive Street 
by large business firms. The 
principal of these are the Graham 
Buildings, Gillander House, the 
Chartered Bank, the Allahabad 
Bank, Messrs Martin & Company’s 
buildings, the Oriental Life Assur- 
ance Buildings, and the South 
British Insurance Buildings The 
Royal Exchange Building, an 
imposing structure, is being con- 
structed for the Bengal Chamber 
of Commerce, to the N. of the 
Chartered Bank Buildings. In 
this vicinity, also, are the Syna- 
gogue, the Armenian Church, and 



92 ROUTE 5 . CALCUTTA 

the Roman Catholic Cathedral, 
and in the same neighbourhood 
are a Greek Church, built in 1780. 
and a Parsi place of worship, while 
N. of Harrison Road are the Mint 
and Mayo Native Hospital. When 
the first Portuguese came to Cal- 
cutta, the English granted them 
a piece of land in Portuguese 
Church Street, on which the friars 
of the order of St Augustine 
erected a chapel in 1700- Its suc- 
cessor, the Roman Catholic Cathe- 
dral, was built in 1797, and is 
dedicated to the Virgin Mary of 
the Rosary. 

The railway stations at Ho\\- 
rah and Sealdah have been greatly 
improved, especially the former, 
which now takes rank with the 
Victoria Terminus of Bombay, 
and is arranged with special regard 
to the convenience of passengers 
Sealdah has now ten platforms, with 
separate booking-offices, at right 
angles to the lines, in what are 
known as the N. Station (for sub- 
urban trains). Main Station (for 
through trains) , and S Station (for 
S. Section trains). 

The Mint, at the W. end of 
Nimtollah Street, was built 1824- 
30, the architect being ]\Iajor 
W. N. Forbes. The style is Doric, 
the central portico being copied 
from the Parthenon at Athens. 
The area of the building and 
grounds is 18 J acres. The JNIint 
blaster issues passes on applica- 
tion to view the Mint. 

From the N.E. corner of Dal- 
housie Square, Bow Bazar, one of 
the principal trading centres of the 
city, also leads to the Sealdah 
station, with the railway station 
for IMutla, or Port Canning, and for 
Diamond Harbour, and the Camp- 
bell Hospital lying to the S. of it. 
Half-way down it College Street 
leads to the N., past the Eden, 
Ezra, and IVledical College Hos- 
pitals, and the Medical College to 
College Square, also with a" fine 
tank in the middle of it. 


CITY AND ENVIRONS India 

The Ezra Hospital is for Jews 
only. The Medical College Hos- 
pital, with accommodation for 
over 300 patients, was erected in 
1853, and the Eden Hospital for 
women and children in 1S82. 
Other extensions have since been 
made, including a Surgical Ward, 
an Eye Infirmary, the Pnnce of 
Wales' Hospital, the Electrical 
Annexe— aud the whole now pro- 
vides adequately for the medical 
rehef of the Indian population 
The nursing here and in some of 
the other hospitals, is under the 
Sisters of St John, at Clewer. 
Behind the Hospital is the College, 
with 500 students, one of the 
principal institutions of the kind 
in India. It is intended that 
the principal memorial of King 
Edivard VII. shall take the form 
of an endowment fund for medical 
research, rehef, and education. 

The Duffenn Zenana Hospital 
lies considerably to the E., m 
Upper Circular Road. On the 
W. side of College Square are 
the Calcutta University, the 
Hare School, and the Presidency 
College. The University Senate 
House is a grand hall, 120 ft. by 
60 ft., in which the Convocations 
for conferring degrees take place. 
It hds a portico supported by six 
lofty pillars. Large structures 
ha\T" been raised in the neighbour- 
hood for the University I.aw 
College, the College of Science, and 
spacious lecture halls. Close by 
is the Hare i>cliool, which is self- 
supporting, It was erected out ol 
the surplus fees of students. The 
Presidency College was deyeloped 
in 1855 from the Hindu College, 
founded in 1S24, and opened in 
1827, at a cost of Rs. 170,000. 
The foundation-stone of the new 
building of this College was laid 
in 1S72 by Sir George Campbell. 

Farther N., in Cornwallis 
Square, are those of the Fiee 
Church of Scotland Mission, begun 
by Alexander Dufi in 1830. The 
Scottish Church is in Wellesley 
Square. E. of Cornwallis Square 



ROUTE 5. W. BANK OF HOOGHLY RIVER 03 


and N. of the end of Beadon Street 
(abutting on Circular Road, which 
in its upper portion marks the 
line of the Mahratta ditch, hastily 
dug in 1742, when these marauders 
invaded Orissa and Bihar) is 
Halsi Bagan Road, so called from 
the gardens of the well-known 
Oiaichand {Amin Chand) died 1758, 
who was tricked by Colonel CUve, 
m a lane off which are the marble 
Jain temples in the garden known 
by the name of Badri Das. The 
temples, dedicated to the loth 
Tirthankar, Sitalnath Ji, and the 
gardens form one of the pretties,t 
spots in the whole of Calcutta, 
and should be visited by all who 
have a spare half-hour to give to 
them 

There is also a Chinese temple 
m Calcutta. 


Missions of the Church of 
England. — The Oxford Mission, 
42 Cornwallis Street, works chiefly 
among the high-caste Indians, and 
has charge of Bishop's College in 
Circular Road, a Boys' High 
School, and Industrial School, and 
two hostels for College Students 
The S.P.G. — Headquarters, 
Bishop’s College, Lower Circular 
Road ; Mission Church, St 
Saviour’s, Wellesley Square, with 
a Boarding-school. 

The S.P.G. Ladies' Association 
have charge of the Milman 
Memorial School for Girls. 

The Sisters of St John (Clewer) 
ttave charge of the Government 
General Hospital, the Medical College 
Hospital, the Eden Hospital, and the 
Eady Canning Home for Nurses ; 
also of native mission work at 
Teepulpatti, in the rice-fields 3 m. 
distant. 


(3) The W. Bank of the Hooghly 
River. 

The Koyal Botanical Gardens, on 
W. bank of the river, opposite 
Garden Reach, were founded in 


1787, on the suggestion of Colonel 
Kyd, who was appointed the first 
Superintendent. He died in 1793, 
and has had a number of eminent 
successors, who have brought the 
gardens to a high standard of 
merit, among them Roxburgh, 
Buchanan - Hamilton, Wallich, 
Griffith, H. Falconer, Sir G. King, 
and Sir D. Prain — all well-known 
botanists. The visitor may drive 
to the gardens across the bridge 
and through Howrah, over the 
E.I. Railway by a bridge, or to 
Garden Reach, and cross the river 
Hooghly in a boat. There is also 
a steamer service from Chandpal 
Ghat to Sibpur Ghat and some- 
times from the first direct to the 
Botanical Gardens. At Sibpur is 
j the Engineering (Civil) College, 
with its classes of mining and 
other instruction. The area of the 
gardens is 270 acres, with river 
trontage of a mile.^ At the N.W. 
corner is the Howrah Gate, where 
are three fine trees — a Ficus indica 
in the centre, wuth a Ficus religiosa 
on either side. From the College 
Gate, near the river, an avenue ol 
almond-trees runs along the river 
front ; while an avenue of Palmyra 
palms to the right of the entrance, 
and one of mahogany trees to the 
left, lead to the centre and the 
memorial of Colonel Kyd, passing 
the palm plantation, w^ch is 
separated off by a canal crossed 
by pretty bridges. From the mem- 
orial an avenue of palms leads S. 
to the Landing-place Gate, on the 
river ; and close by it are the three 
conservatories for orchids, large 
plants, and palms. Leaving the 
above avenue to the left, the Great 
Banyan Tree- (Ftctis tndica), 
w^hich covers ground nearly 1000 
ft. m circumference, and had in 
1894 37S grounded aerial roots, 

1 An excellent little guide to the gardens, 
with a plan of them, can be bought in 
Calcutta and at the garden gates. 

*2 The Banyan (which is the Indian Bar 
or Bor tree) derives its name from the fact 
that the Hindu traders (baniyas) used to 
worship under such trees at Gombroon 
Ormuz), in the Persian Gulf. 



94 ROUTE 5 . CALCUTTA 

with many more in process of 
formation, will be reached, and 
will be found a w'onderful sight. 

The fii:;-tree at this day to Indians, known 
In Malabar or Deccan . spreads her arms, 
Branching so broad and long, that on the 
ground 

The bended twigs take root, and 
daughters grow 

About the mother tree, a pillar d shade. 
High over • arched and echoing walks 
between.’ — Milton*, Paradise Lost 

On the left of an avenue near it 
is a monument to Roxburgh, with 
a Latin epitaph by Heber. Sir J 
Hooker writes of these gardens 
in his Himalayan Journals fhar 
“ they have contributed more 
useful and ornamental tropical 
plants to the public and private 
gardens of the world than any 
other estabhshment before or 
since." He says also, " that the 
great Indian Herbarium, chiefly 
formed by the staff of the Botanic 
Gardens, under the direction of 
Dr Wallich, and distributed in 
1829 to the principal museums of 
Europe, was the most valuable 
contribution of the kind ever made 
to science " ; and adds, " that the 
origin of the tea- culture in the 
Himalayas and Assam was almost 
entirely the work of the Superin- 
tendent of the gardens at Calcutta 
ahd Saharanpur," The Superin- 
tendent has a house in the gar- 
dens. Near it is the Herbarium, 
or collection of dried plants, pro- 
bably the only one in Asia of the 
first class. There are from 30,000 
to 40,000 species represented in it. 
Attached to the Herbarium is a 
very fine Botanic Library. 

(4) Excursions in the Vicinity of 
Calcutta. 

Barrackpore (population about 
32,000) is called by the natives 
Chanak. " The theory that the 
name is derived from Chamock 
(the founder of Calcutta on 24th 
August 1690), who founded a 
small bazar here, is quite unten- 
able, for Chanak is a common 


CITY AND ENVIRONS India 

j Bengali appellation for a village, 

I and appears as Tchanuk in an 
, old Dutch map of India, drawn 
! early in the 17th century, long 
1 before Job Chamock became a 
I known man."^ The journey may 
- be made by rail (14 m.), carriage, or 
river, if the traveller can procure 
' a steam launch, or can utihse the 
, local river steamer services. The 
trip up the river takes three hours, 
and is interesting and picturesque, 
j The river excursion may pleas- 
: antly be extended to Serampore, 
Chandernagore, Chinsura, and 
Hooghly (see p. 97). 

Just before reaching Barrack- 
[ pore there are some handsome 
i modern temples on the left bank. 

' Then comes the beautiful park 
[ (left bank), with noble trees, and a 
small pier as landing - place, at 
which the Viceroy’s steam launch 
has often moored. At 300 yds. to 
, the S. of the house, under a fine 
, tamarind tree, is a polygonal en- 
closure, \vithin which is a white 
marble monument to Lady Can- 
' ning ; it replaces that removed to 
the Cathedral at Calcutta. A 
Hall, built by the Earl of Minto in 
1813, stands 100 yds. to the N. of 
I the house, within a colonnade of 
; Corinthian pillars. Over the out- 
! side entrance is a black slab, in- 
I scribed — 

To the Memory of the Bra Ye. 

On the walls are four tablets, 

I erected by different Governors- 
General to the memory of British 
, soldiers who fell in Mauritius (Isle 
of France) and Java, i8io-ii, and 
j at Maharajpur and Panniar, 1843. 

The House, which was the Vice- 
roy's country residence, was com- 
menced by Lord Minto, and en- 
larged to its present size by the 
I Marquis of Hastings. It contains 
' some interesting pictures of Native 
; Princes. N. of the park is Bar- 
; rackpore Cantonment. Troops were 
I first stationed here in 1772, when 

I 1 Calcutta, Old and New (p. 993) by 
[ H. E. .A. Cotton, 



95 


ROUTE 5. DUM DUM- 

the place received its name. In 
1 824,during the First Burmese War, 
the 47th B N.I . which was ordered 
on service, mutinied here on the 
30th October, on which the Com- 
mander - in - Chief, Sir Edw^ard 
Paget, proceeded (ist November) 
ro the Cantonment with two Euro- 
pean regiments, a battery of 
European artillery, and a troop of 
the Governor - General's Body- 
guard. The mutinous regiment 
was drawn up in face of these 
troops, and was ordered to march 
or ground arms. On the sepoys 
refusing to obev, the guns opened 
upon them, when, throwing away 
their arms and accoutrements, 

, they made for the river. Some 
j were shot down, some drowmed, 
j and many hanged, and the regi- 
ment was struck out of the “ Army 
List " In March 1857 there were 
again mutiny troubles here, and 
these were checked for the 
moment by the personal bravery 
of General Hearsay,^ commanding 
the troops. The 19th N.I. and 
34th N.I. were disbanded in March 
and May. It became necessary to 
disarm all the native troops at the 
station on 14th June 

At Barrackpore there are a 
church (St Bartholomew’s), a 
Zenana Mission, and a Wesleyan 
Church ; and the Charnock Hotel 
(in the Station Road). 

There is a Small-arm Factory at 
Ichapur, 3 m. to the N of Barrack- 
pore. 

tJ ssipore, 5 m. from Calcutta, 
municipal town. There is a 
Foundry and Shell Factory on the 
bank of the Hooghly. 

Bum Bum station (population 
about 21,000), 7 m. from Calcutta. 
The “ Clive Hotel ” is at Clive 
House (referred to below) A 
niunicipal toivn and Cantonment 

' General Hearsey, who as a subaltern 
had taken part jn the defence of Sitabaldi 
(P 1 1 5),^ had previously shared in the 
suppression of a mutiny of Nati%e Troops 
at Wa7irabad in 1849. 


-HOWRAH — SERAMPORE 

, It was the headquarters of the 
Bengal Artillery from 1783 till 
1853, when they were removed to 
Meerut ; and their mess-house is 
now the Soldiers’ Club, and is 
known as the Outram InsUhite. A 
bust of Sir James Outram stands 
. in the veranda. 

In the centre of the Barrack 
Square is a huge gun. Near this 
is a monument to the officers and 
j men killed in the Khyber whilst 
' returning from Kabul in 1841-2. 

The treaty which restored the 
i British settlements after the recap- 
! ture of Calcutta in 1757 was 
! signed at Bum Dum. Lord CUve 
' had a house here, and Fairley Hail 
t was occupied by Sir Henry Law- 
j rence when a Lieutenant. There 
i are an English Church (St Ste- 
phen’s), a Roman Catholic Chapel, 

I and a Wesleyan Chapel. There is 
j an Ammunition Factory, which is 
: guarded by British soldiers. 

Howrah (population 179,006) is 
a large and flourishing city on the 
right bank of the Hooghly, oppo- 
site Calcutta, \wth over sixty mills, 
employing 50,000 hands, chiefly 
recruited from up-country It is 
also at present the terminus of the 
E I.R , and of the Bengal and 
Nagpur Railway. At the end of 
the iSth century it was a small 
village ; now it stands thirteenth 
among all the cities of India. 

The following places may be 
visited by the E I. Railway : — 

12 m Serampore station (popu- 
lation 49,594), the head-quarters of 
the sub-division of the same name, 
is on the W. bank of the Hooghly, 
opposite Barrackpore. Serampore 
was formerly a Danish settlement, 
and was then called Fredericks- 
nagore. The fine mansion of the 
Danish Governor now forms the 
Courts of Justice and adimnistra- 
tive offices. In 1845 a treaty was 
made with the Rang of Denmark, 
by which all the Danish posses- 
sions in India — namely, Tranque- 
bar, Fredencksnagore, and a small 


96 


ROUTE 5. 


CALCUTTA CITY AND ENVIRONS 


India 


piece of ground at Balasore — were 
transferred to the E.I. Company 
for 1 25,000. The treaty con- 
firmed the privileges conferred on 
Serampore College by the Royal 
Charter of the Danish King. The 
chief claim of Serampore to notice 
arises from its having been from 
1800 onwards the scene of the 
labours of Carey, Marshman, and 
Ward. The zeal and success of 
the Baptist missionaries of Seram- 
pore form one of the brightest 
episodes of evangelistic efforts in 
India. From its press proceeded 
forty translations of the Scrip- 
tures. Serampore is now the 
centre of a flourishing jute and 
cotton trade, there being three 
jute and two cotton mills in or 
near the town 

The old Danish Church (St 
Olave’s, 1805) cost Rs. 18,500, of 
which 1000 were given by the 
Marquis Wellesley ; it is now 
Anglican In it there are tablets 
in memory of the three Baptist 
missionaries above named. Their 
tombs are in the Baptist cemetery, 
on the right hand of the Grand 
Trunk road from the old railwa\' 
station. There are also a Baptist 
Mission Chapel, a Roman Catholic 
Church, and a Baptist Zenana 
Mission 

At Mahesh, some 2 m. from 
Serampore, there is a large and 
ancient temple dedicated to Jag- 
anna th. The car festival in July 
IS the largest of its kind in India 
outside Puri. 

The College, founded m 1818 by 
the Serampore missionaries, pos- 
sesses a handsome building on the 
banks of the river, and commands 
a fine view across it over Barrack- 
pore Park. The College has 
Faculties in Arts and Theology, 
and confers its own Divinity de- 
grees. On the ground floor are 
the lecture-rooms, and on the floor 
a.bove, the Great Hall, which is 
103 ft. long and 66 ft. broad. In 
the Hall are portraits of Frederick 
VI. of Denmark (who gave the 
College its Charter, empowering it 


to grant degrees in all the sciences) 
and of his Queen ; of Dr Marsh- 
man, by Zofiany, and of King 
Christian of Denmark and his 
Queen. The latter portrait, how- 
ever, is disputed. Some hold that 
it represents Madame Grand, who 
afterwards married Talleyrand. 
Dr Busteed put forward the 
theory that it represents a Danish 
princess, but the local tradition is 
that it IS a portrait of King Chris- 
tian’s Queen. 

The Library, of over 12,000 
volumes, contains many treasures, 
including the first editions of Carey 
and Marshman’s forty translations 
of the Bible ; some curious San- 
skrit, Tibetan and Pah manu- 
scripts and a Persian manuscript 
containing the lives of the Apostles, 
prepared by Jerome Xavier for 
Akbar or Jahangir. Father 
Hosten, S.J., who has examined 
the manuscript with much care, 
writes, "I do not know of any 
other complete specimen of the 
Lives of the Apostles than the 
copy of Serampore. Those in the 
JNIarsden Collection, Bodleian and 
National Library, Paris, are per- 
haps complete too.” There are a 
number of other books of unique 
interest, bearing on Oriental learn- 
ing. Adjoining the Library is a 
museum in which may be found 
Carey’s crutches, three chairs that 
once belonged to the famous Trio, 
a number of Carey’s autograph 
letters and the marriage agreement 
[ between William Ward and Mary 
j Fountain 

I In the College compound is the 
house in which Carey lived and 
died. In 1910 a large and hand- 
some hostel, with quarters for a 
member of the stafi, was erected 
behind the historic College build- 
ing. The Serampore Weaving 
School was estabhshed in the year 
1909 for the purpose of training 
Indian weavers in modern methods 
of weaving. 

The fine mansion next to the 
chapel, which was the common 
centre of the Serampore brother- 



97 


ROUTE 5. CHANDERNAGORE — HOOGHLY 


hood, with all Carey’s Park and 
botanic garden, is now the pro- 
perty of the India Jute Company. 
Here, from 1835 to 1875, the 
weekly Friend of India was edited, 
and also the Samachar Darpan, 
the first vernacular newspaper in 
Bengal. 

21 m. Chandemagore ^ station. 
Area, 3 sq. m. ; population, 
29,293. The French settled here 
in 1673, and under Dupleix (1697- 
1764), of whom the place has a 
statue, over 2000 houses were 
built, and a considerable trade 
arose during his superintendent- 
ship (1730 - 1741). In 1757 the 
town was bombarded by the 
British Fleet, under Admiral Wat- 
son, and captured, and the fortifi- 
cations were demolished ; but in 
1763 the town was restored to the 
French. In 1794 it was again 
captured by the British, and held 
till 1815, when it was again 
restored to the French. The 
railway station is just outside 
the French boundary. A church 
stands on the bank of the river, 
built by Italian missionaries in 
1726. The hotels are the Hotel 
de France and the Thistle Hotel. 
At Chandernagore there was a first- 
class college (The “ Dupleix Col- 
which is now reduced to a 
High English School. At Goswami 
Ghat, between Chandernagore and 
Chinsura, there still stands a huge 
ruined temple, known to the neigh- 1 
bourhood as the “ Kone Bo-yer ! 
Mandir.’^ At present there is no 1 
image in the temple ; but formerly 
it was the temple of the Goddess 
Kali. According to tradition, it 
was erected by one Devi Sarkar 
upon the wish of his brother’s 
■^vife, who was the “ Kone Bou,” or 
the youngest bride, of the Sarkar 
family. 

24 m. Hooghly station. At 
Hooghly, the E.I.R. and the 
Eastern Bengal Railway are linked 
across the great cantilever Jubilee 

1 See p. 76. 


Bridge, which is 1213 ft. long, and 
ranks as one of the greatest engin- 
eering feats in India. The linking 
line, 3 m. long, joins the East- 
ern Bengal Railway at Naihati. 
Hooghly and Chinsura (2 m. from 
Hooghly station, see below^), to- 
gether cover an area of 6 sq. 
m. The total population is 28,916. 
Hooghly town is the administra- 
j tive headquarters of the district of 
the same name. It was founded 
by the Portuguese in 1537 a.d., 
wRen the royal port of Bengal, 
Satgaon, began to be deserted 
owing to the silting-up of the 
Saraswati, on which river it was 
I situated. They commenced by 
i building a fortress at Golghat, 
t close to the present Hooghly jail, 
some vestiges of which are still 
; visible in the bed of the river. 

I When Shah Jahan came to the 
' throne complaints were made to 
him of the conduct of the Portu- 
guese at Hooghly. The Emperor 
bore them a grudge, as they had 
refused to assist him against his 
father, and he sent a large force 
against the fort, which, after four 
and a half months' siege, in 1632, 
Avas stormed. More than 1000 
Portuguese were slain, and 4000 
men, women, and children were 
captured. Out of 300 Portuguese 
vessels only three escaped. The 
prisoners were sent to Agra, and 
forcibly converted to Islam. Sat- 
gaon was then abandoned fou 
Hooghly, w^hich was made the 
royal port. The Portuguese re- 
turned to Hooghly in 1633. It 
was also the first settlement of the 
English in Lower Bengal. The 
E I. Company established a fac- 
torv there in 1651, under a 
from Sultan Shuja’, Governor of 
i Bengal and second son of Shah 
Jahan. This farman was granted, 
i according to tradition, to Dr 
Boughton, wLo had cured a 
favourite daughter of the Em- 
peror, and asked for this rew^ard. 
In 1669 the Company received 
permission to bring their ships to 
: Hooghly to load, instead of trans- 


G 



India 


^98 ROUTE 5. CALCUTTA 

porting their goods in small ves- 
sels, and then shipping them into 
large. In 1686 a dispute took 
place between the English at 
Hooghly and the Nawab of Ben- 
gal, and the Company sent a force 
to protect their Hooghly factories 
It chanced that a few English 
soldiers were attacked by the 
Nawab's men in the bazars, and 
a street fight ensued. Colonel 
Nicholson on this bombarded the 
town, and 500 houses were burnt, 
including the Company's ware- 
houses, containing goods to the 
value of ;^30o,ooo. The chief of 
the English factory was obliged to 
fly to Sutanati ' and take shelter 
Avith some native merchants. In 
1742 Hooghly was sacked by the 
Mahrattas. 

The principal sight at Hooghly 
is the Imamhara, built by Kara- 
mat All (Superintendent 1837- 
1876), the friend and companion 
of Arthur Conolly, at a cost of 
Rs. 300,000 from funds bequeathed 
by Muhammad Muhsin, who owned 
a quarter of the great Saiyadpur 
estate, in Jessore district, and 
died in 1814, without heirs, leav- 
ing a property worth ^45 00 a 
year for pious purposes. The trus- 
tees quarrelled, and Government 
assumed charge of the estate. 
During the litigation a fund of 
/86,iio had accumulated, and 
with this the Hooghly College was 
founded in 1836. The fa9ade of 
the Imambara is 277 ft. by 36 ft ; 
and in its centre is a gateway 
flanked by two minarets, or 
towers, 1 14 ft. high. On either 
side of the door are inscriptions. 
Within is a quadrangle, 150 ft. by 
80 ft., with rooms all round, and a 
fine hall paved with marble, hav- 
ing a pulpit with sides covered 
with plates of silver, and a verse of 
the Koran inscribed in each plate. 
The library was bequeathed by 
Karamat 'Ali, but a few books 
have since been added by other 
people. Among them are 787 
MSS., including a fine folio Koran, 

1 See p. 76. 


CITY AND ENVIRONS 

in two volumes, given by Prince 
Ghulam Muhammad, son of Tipu 
Sultan. On the opposite side of 
the road from this Imambara is 
the old Imambara, built in 1776- 
77. In the W, corner lie the 
remains of Karamat Ali, and there 
is a white marble tablet placed 
against the wall, with an extfact 
from the Koran, but no tomb. 


ChinsuTa, i m. S. of Hooghly, 
was held by the Dutch for 180 
years, and ceded by them to the 
British in exchange for Sumatra in 
1825. The old Dutch Church, of 
brick, is said to have been built by 
the Governor in 1678. In it are 
fourteen escutcheons, dating from 
1685 to 1770, with inscriptions in 
Dutch. Between Chinsura and 
Chandernagore is Biderra, where 
the British, under Colonel Forde, 
obtained a decisive victory over 
the Dutch on 25th November 
1759. It is said that the British 
Commander was aware that his 
nation and the Dutch were at 
peace, and wrote to Clive for an 
Order in Council to fight. Clive 
was playing cards, and wrote in 
pencil : Dear Forde, — Fight 

them immediately, and I will send 
you an Order in Council to-morrow. 
— Thursday, lyth, 1.30 p.m,"" 

The Hooghly College is to the S. 
of the church. There are 600 
students. The cemetery is i m. to 
the \V. of the church ; it is well 
kept, and contains many old tombs 
of former Dutch officials. 


Bandel, i m. N. of Hooghly. A 
Portuguese monastery and church 
were built here in 1599, and the 
keystone with the date was erected 
an the new one, which is of brick, 
and very solidly built. It is dedi- 
cated to Nossa Senhora de Rosario, 
There are fine cloisters on the S., 
and a priory, in which is a noble 
room called St Augustine's Hall. 
The church w^as founded by the 
Augustinian missionaries, demol- 



ROUTE 5. HOOGHLY RIVER TO SAGAR ISLAND 


99 


ished by Shah Jahan in 1640, and 
rebuilt by John Gomez de Soto. 

About 6 m, above Hooghly is 
Satgaon, where there is a ruined 
mosque, which, together with a 
few tombs near it, is the only 
remnant of the old capital ot 
Lower Bengal. It was built by 
Saij’ad Jamal - ud - din, son of 
Fakhr-ud-din, who, accord?Qg to 
inscriptions in the mosque, came 
from Amel, a town on the Caspian. 
The river of Satgaon, up to 
Akbar’s time, formed the N. 
frontier of Orissa, and Satgaon 
flourished for 1500 years. Three 
Centuries ago the Hooghly flowed 
by the town. 

Down the Hooghly Eiver from 
Calcutta to Sagar Island, 

The Calcutta pilots, who num- 
bered sixty-three in 1915-16, and 
were responsible for the safety of 
some 2299 vessels, with a tonnage 

90^3,348 tons up and down the 
river, occupy a higher position 
than any of their profession. 
-Pilotage receipts amounted in 
1915 -16 to Rs. 1, 106, 1 17. The 
Hooghly is a most dangerous and 
diflicult river to navigate, as, apart 
from the chance of cyclones, which 
take place in any month except 
February, there is the normal 
danger of shoals and tides, which 
is a very real and a very great one. 
New shoals are continually form- 
ing, and nothing but a daily 
experience of the river can enable 
a pilot to take a vessel up or down 
safely. The most dangerous shoal 
y-called the " James and Mary ” — 
is 30 m. S. of Calcutta, just above 
the Rupnarain ; but from the 
Hamodar River to Hooghly Point, 
a distance of 6 m., the whole nver 
IS full of dangers. There has been 
no serious accident at this point 
for many years, and, although it 
represents the most dangerous 
spot on the river, the systematic 
dredging which has been carried 
out since the purchase of two 


j large dredgers has effected a 
1 marked improvement. The name 
of the above shoal dates from 
the wreck of a vessel called the 
I Royal Janies and Mary on that 
bank in 1694, It appears first 
i under this name in a chart dated 
! 1711. The Hooghly used not to 
i be navigated at night, nor until 
! the tide made could it be ascended. 

* The river has now (since 1915) 
j been lighted in the Lower Reaches, 
j that is, from IMud Point down- 
i wards, for a distance of 61 m. : 
i vessels do not now usually anchor 
! at Sagar Island, but, according to 
[ draft, can come up regardless of 
' the state of the tide. The ordin- 
' ary fall and rise of the tide is 
: 1 1 ft. 8 i in. at Calcutta. A special 
I feature of the rising tide is the 
; bore, which hardly ever attains a 
i height of 7 ft. ; 6 ft. are regarded 
! as the maximum, and that only as 
i tar as Chinsura. The bore reaches 
! as far up the river as 5 m. above 
i Nadia ; it very seldom does any 
I damage. 

! The view of the river, crowded 
i with ships at anchor many rows 
deep all the way along the Strand 
and down to Garden Reach, is very 
striking ; the forest of masts, the 
plain of the Esplanade, the Fort, 
and the hne buildings along 
Cho^Ynngili, ail give the idea of a 
great city — the premier city in 
India, though no longer the 
capital. 

The vista to the N. from between 
Garden Reach and the Botanical 
Gardens is especially fine when the 
atmosphere is clear. Seven m. 
from Calcutta the last sight of the 
premier city of India is lost ; 5 m. 
farther Budge Budge (Baj Baj ; 
railway to Calcutta, 15 m.) is 
passed on the left ; at a similar 
distance farther on ITluharia, a 
small town, is passed on the right 
bank. Here the main road from 
Calcutta to the temple of Jagan- 
nath at Puri crosses the Hooghly, 
and here begins the Midnapore 
High-Level Canal, The river, 
which has hitherto followed a 



lOO 


ROUTE 6. MANMAR TO SECUNDERABAD 


India 


S.W. course, now turns due S. to 
Hooghly Point. 

At 27 m., a little above the 
mouth of the Damodar, is (on the 
left bank) Faita, the site of an old 
Dutch factory, and the place to 
which the British ships sailed on 
the capture of Calcutta by Suraj- 
ud-daula, and from which Clive 
advanced to the recapture of 
Calcutta for the British. 

The Damodar is navigable as 
far as Amta, which is 25 m. from 
its mouth, by boats of from 10 to 
20 tons, and large quantities of 
coal are brought down by this 
river from the Raniganj mines. 

5 m. below Faita the Rupnarain 
River enters the Hooghly from 
the right bank nearly opposite 
Hooghly Point, and from here 
the river turns S.E. to Diamond 
Harbour, and then S. again. 


At 12 m. up the Rupnarain 
river, on the right bank, is Tamluk, 
a very famous city in ancient 
times, and a maritime port of the 
Buddhists, where the Chinese pil- 
grim Fa Hian embarked for Ceylon 
in the beginning of the 5th centurv 
A.D. Hiuen Tsang 220 years later 
speaks of it as an important 
Buddhist harbour. It is now a 
long way from the ocean, but 
reached by the tide There is a 
Temple here known in the locality 
by the name of Barga Bhima or 
Bhenna, which was originally a 
Buddhist temple. The shnne is 
surrounded by a curious triple 
wall. 


At 48 m. from Calcutta is 
Diamond Karhour (left) — 30 m. by 
a metalled road — marked by a 
large number of trees, where the 
E.I. Company’s ships used to 
anchor. There is a Custom House 
here, and the officers board ships 
proceeding up the river. There is 
also a railway to Calcutta (35 m.), 
with five or six trains daily, in 
three or four hours. 


At 56 m. is the town of Kalpi 
(left), which contains a large 
market-place for the sale of rice 
'grown in the interior, and from 
which there is a road to Calcutta. 
Here the estuary of the Hooghly 
begins, and at gq m., betw^een 
Kedgeree and Sagar Island, it is 
15 m. broad. At this island, 
wher^the Ganges is considered to 
join the sea, a gathering of from 
30,000 to 50,000 pilgrims from all 
parts of India, but principally 
from the Bengal districts, takes 
place in the early part of January, 
the date of the great Bathing 
Festival of Bengal. The bathing 
ceremony, as a rule, lasts for three 
days, though the fair lasts for a 
couple of days longer. The island 
was overwhelmed by a cyclone in 
1864, when only 1500 out of 5600 
inhabitants escaped alive. 

Sport is abundant. Deer, wild 
boar, and a great variety of sea- 
birds are found throughout the 
year. 

Tigers are to be met with in 
the jungle ; but tiger-shooting, as 
practised here, is very dangerous, 
and should not be attempted by 
inexperienced persons. 

The sea is reached at 82 m., 
where there is a lighthouse of iron, 
76 ft. high, commenced in 1808, 
on Middleton Point, at the S.W 
end of Sagar Island. The float- 
ing light- vessel is 40 m. below this, 
and the outermost buoy 10 m. 
farther on, about 130 m. from 
Calcutta. 


ROUTE 6. 

Manmar to Daulatahad, The Caves 
of EUora, Aurangabad, Jalna, 
and Secunderabad. 

Manmar, 162 m. from Bombay 
(P- 35)— The railway passes near 
the S. side of the great rock of 



ROUTE 6. DAULATABAD 


lOI 


Deogin, or Daulatabad, affording a 
fine view of three sides of it. Per- 
mission to visit the fort must be 
obtained from the Station Staff 
Officer, Aurangabad, and a tonga 
for the journey from the Daulata- 
bad station (8 m. to Rauza, 2 
more to the Ellora caves) must 
be ordered beforehand from the 
Tonga Mail Agent, Aurangabad. 
The charge for a tonga is Rs.io, 
and a fee of Rs.2 additional is 
charged for each day’s halt. It 
13 impossible to see the caves 
properly in less than two days- 
The R.H.’s are beautifully fur- 
nished, with every requisite — 
china, glass, and plate. There is 
also a staff of servants ; and a cook 
must be taken, also provisions, but 
ordinary supplies are available. 

There is a fairly good httle R.R. 
at Daulatabad station, with a fair 
supply of provisions. It is a good 
plan to leave Rauza early, see 
Daulatabad Fort, lunch at the 
station, and catch tlie train in 
either direction - 

63 m. from Manmar is Daulata- 
bad^ (Deogiyi), in the Nizam of 
Hyderabad’s dominions, a 13th- 
century fortress, built on a 
huge isolated conical rock of 
granite, about 500 ft. high, with 
a perpendicular scarp of from 
So ft. to 120 ft. all round. On the 
E side of the fortress were two 
outer lines of defence, and beyond 
these stood the wailed city, now in 
ruins, and crossed from S. to N. by 
the road to Rauza and Ellora. On 
the left of the road stands the 
entrance to the outer hne of 
defence, consisting of a hornwork 
with three gateways inside it, pro- 
tected by a bastion 50 ft. high. 
Eeyond the gate are (y) a Hindu 
temple with a lamp tower 13 ft, 
high ; and (f) a small shrine of the 
Pir-i-kuds. On the latter side a 
httle farther on are a large 
masonry tank, now dry, and a 
mosque converted out of a Jam 
Icmple, which has also served as a 
Hindu place of worship. Oppo- 


site these the Chand Minar, a 
minaret of Turkish form, rises 
100 ft. ; it bears the date of 1435 
A.D. The inner line of defence is 
now passed by a gate similar to 
that in the outer line, the first gate 
in both cases being defended by 
iron spikes against battering by 
elephants ; and a steep flight of 
steps leads onwards to a third gate, 
giving access to a platform on the 
edge of the ditch, 40 ft. wide. On 
the right here is the Chtni Mahal, 
with encaustic decoration, in 
which Abul Hasan Tana Shah, the 
last King of Golconda, spent thir- 
teen years of imprisonment ; close 
by on a bastion is a gun 21 ft. 
I o in long, called the Kila Shikan, 
or Fort Batterer. The moat is 
crossed by a narrow stone bridge, 
at the end of which the road 
ascends to the Balakot by rock- 
cut chambers and passages, and 
emerges into the air 50 ft. higher 
up. Tiffs point was formerly 
covered with an iron shutter, 20 ft. 
long and i in. thick, made in ribs 
(part of it is gone), which in case of 
siege was heated red hot, so that, if 
assailants could have penetrated 
so far, they would have encoun- 
tered a fiery roof quite unap- 
proachable. "To provide ventila- 
tion for the fire a large hole has 
been tunnelled through the rock 
close by. Passing a gateway and 
the shrine of the Fakir Sukh 
Sultan, the path leads to a Barah- 
dari, or pavilion, from which there 
is a fine view. It is believed to 
have been the residence of the 
Hindu Princess of Deogiri, and was 
a favourite resort of the Emperor 
Shah Jahan^ in 1636. The pavil- 
ion has a wide veranda, with a 
precipice of from loo ft to 200 ft. in 
front, and a view to Aurangabad 
on the E and to Rauza on the N . 
One hundred steps more must be 
climbed to reach the citadel itself, 
on a platform 160 ft. by 120 ft. 
At the W. corner is a one-gun bat- 

I The Emptior^ hi^Unan retarded a 
most exact account of the defences. 



102 


ROUTE 6. MANMAR TO SECUNDERABAD 


India 


tery, 6o ft. by 30 ft. The gun is 
IQ ft. 6 in. 'long, with a bore of 7 in. 
On a bastion is a large gun, on 
which is a Gujarati inscription, 
saying that the funds for its con- 
struction were provided by certain 
Banias, and also a Persian inscrip- 
tion, naming the gun “ Creator of 
Storms.” Tavernier s^ys that the 
gun on the highest platform was 
raised to its place under the direc- 
tions of a European artilleryman iit 
the service of the Great Mughal, 
who had been repeatedly refused 
leave to return to his native land, 
and was promised it if he could 
mount the gun on this spot. 

The place was the capital of the 
Yadava dynasty after the fall of 
the Western Chalukyas. In the 
\ear 1293 Ala-ud-din, afterwards 
Emperor of Delhi, took the city. 
The citadel still held out, and he 
finally raised the siege of it 011 
receiving a ransom of 15,000 lb. of 
pure gold, 175 lb. of pearls, 50 lb. 
of diamonds, and 25,000 lb. of 
silver. In 1338 a.d. Muhammad 
Shah Tughiak attempted to estab- 
lish his capital in the Deccan, 
removed the inhabitants of Delhi 
to Deogiri, strengthened the for ti- 
ll cations, and changed the name to 
Daulatabad ; but his plans ended 
in complete failure. 

The road from Daulatabad to 
Rauza (8 m.) and the caves of 
Ellora ascends the steep hill called 
Pipal Ghat. It was paved by one of 
Aurangzeb's courtiers, as recorded 
on two pillars about half-way up 
the hill, where there are fine views. 

Rauza or KUuldabad is a walled 
town (2218 inhabitants), 2000 ft. 
above the sea, and is 2 in. from the 
caves of Ellora. It is the Karbala 
(holy shrine) of the Deccan Mussul- 
mans, and is celebrated as the 
burial-place of many distinguished 
Muhammadans, amongst whom 
are the Emperor Aurangzeb and 
Ins .second son, Azim Shah ; Ascif 
jah, the founder of the Hyderabad 
dynasty ; Nasir Jang, iiis second 
son ; MaHk Ambar, the powerful 
Minister of the last of the Nizam 


Shahi Kings ; Abul Hasan Tana 
Shah, the exiled and imprisoned 
King of Golconda ; and a host of 
minor celebrities. 

Rauza once contained a con- 
siderable population, but the place 
is now in great part deserted. It 
is surrounded by a high stone 
wall (built by Aurangzeb) with 
battlements and loopholes. Old 
and ruinous mosques and tombs 
abound in every direction on 
each side of the road. 

JVIidway between the N. and S. 
gates of the city is the grave of 
Aurangzeb in the Dargah of Saiyad 
Zain-ud-din, on the right side of 
the road. An ascent of 30 yds. 
leads to a domed porch and gate- 
wav. Some of the /surrounding 
buildings are used as rest-houses 
for travellers, and one as a school. 
In the centre of the S. side is an 
exquisite little Nakkar Khana, or 
music hail, from the galleries of 
which music is played when festi- 
vals or fairs are celebrated. The 
W. side is occupied by a large 
mosque, the roof of which is sup- 
ported on scalloped arches. Fac- 
ing the N. end of the mosque is a 
small open gateway leading into an 
inner courtyard, in the S.E. angle 
of which is the door of Aurangzeb's 
i tomb itself. Above the door is a 
semicircular screen of carved 
wood. The grave, which is un- 
covered, lies in the middle of a 
stone platform raised about half a 
foot from the floor It is over- 
shadowed by the branches of a tree 
{Bukiili) which bears sweet-smell- 
ing flowers ; otherwise it is quite 
open to sun and rain, as it should 
be according to orthodox Muham- 
madan ideas. This Emperor, who 
was a man of austere piety, is said 
before his death to have desired 
that his sepulchre should be poor 
and unpretentious, in accordance 
with the tenets of the Koran, and 
I to have expressly ” desired in his 
I will that his funeral expenses 
j should be defrayed from the pro- 
ceeds of caps which he had quilted 
I and sold, an amount that did not 



ROUTE 6. RAUZA 


103 


exceed Rs.io ; and that the pro- 
ceeds of the sale of his copies of the 
"Koran, Rs.805, should be distri- 
buted to the poor/’ ' 

Fifteen or twenty paces to the E. 
of Aurangzeb’s tomb is a small 
quadrangular enclosure of marble, 
\rithin which are three graves, the 
one on the right being that of the 
daughter of the Muhammadan 
saint buried close by ; the next, 
that of Azam Shah, Aurangzeb's ■ 
second son, attached to which is j 
a small marble headstone carved j 
with floral devices ; and the one j 
beyond, the grave of Azam Shah’s - 
vife. The whole is surrounded by 
a plain screen of white marble. 
Midway between these tombs and 
that of Aurangzeb is the mauso- 
leum of Saiyad Zain-ud-din, on the 
E. side of which are inscribed a 
number of verses from the Koran 
and the date of the Saiyad’s death, 
1370 A.D. This tomb, however, 
was erected many years after that 
period by one of his disciples. 
The doors of the shrine are inlaid 
\rith silver plates of some thick- 
ness ; the steps below it are embel- 
lished with a number of curiously 
cut and polished stones, said to 
have been brought here from time 
to time by Fakirs and other reh- 
gious devotees of the shrine. A j 
little distance to the rear of this ! 
tomb is a small room built in an ; 
angle of the courtyard wall, which ; 
is said to contain a robe of the . 
Prophet Muhammad. It is care- 
fully preserved under lock and ■ 
key, and is only exhibited to the 
gaze of the faithful once a year ' 
— the 12th Rabi-ul-awwal. i 

Opposite this Dargah, on the left j 
^>ide of the road, is that of Saiyad 1 
Hazrat Burhan-ud-din, with the 
grave of Nizam-ul-mulk Asaf Jah, 1 
the first of the Nizams of Hydera- j 
bad. The entrance is through a 1 
large quadrangle, having open- . 
fronted buildings on all sides, and ' 
a Kakkar Khana (music gallery) at ' 
the £. end. The W. end is used | 
as a school for instruction in the i 
Koran A door at this end gives ! 


access to an inner courtyard in 
which are a number of graves. 
Facing the entrance are the tombs 
of Asaf Jah and Nasir Jang, sur- 
rounded by a lattice screen of red 
sandstone, and that of Saiyad 
Hazrat Burhan - ud - din, a saint 
who died at Rauza, 1 344. He was 
the successor of Muntajib-ud-din, 
sent by Nizam-ud-diu Aulia (p. 
273), from Upper India with 700 
disciples a few years before the 
first invasion of the Deccan by 
Ala-uJ-din, 1294, and was suc- 
ceeded by Zain-ud-din. Deposited 
within the shrine are some hairs of 
the Prophet’s beard, which are 
said to increase yearly in number. 
The shrine, however, boasts of a 
still more remarkable treasure, 
which is described by the atten- 
dants as follows : '‘For some 
years after its erection the dis- 
ciples of the Saiyad were without 
means to keep it in repair or to 
provide themselves with the neces- 
saries of hfe. Supplication to the 
deceased saint, however, produced 
the following remarkable pheno- 
menon. During the mght small 
trees of silver grew up through the 
pavement on the S. side of the 
shrine, and were regularly removed 
every morning by the attendants. 
They were broken up and sold in 
the bazars, and with the proceeds 
thus realised the Saiyad’s disciples 
w^ere enabled to maintain the 
shrine and themselves. This re- 
markable production of silver is 
said to have continued for a num- 
ber of years, until a small jagir was 
allotted to the shrine, since which 
time the pavement has only 
yielded small buds of the precious 
metal, which appear on the sur- 
face at night and recede during 
the day.” In proof of these asser- 
tions the visitor is shown a number 
of small lumps of silver on the 
surface of the pavement. The 
shrine doors are covered with 
plates of wliite and yellow metal 
wrought into designs of trees and 
flowers. 

Among the tombs between these 



ROUTE 6. MANMAR TO SECUNDERABAD 


India 


104 

two shrines and the Eliora D.B. 
are those of Saiyad Raju Kattal, 
Mahk Ambar, and the last king 
of Golconda. The D.B. is situated 
above the chft in which the 


CAVES OF ELLORAi 

are, and the road to them begins 
to descend immediately beyond it. ^ 

The Eliora group of Cave Tem- 1 
pies is the largest and most varied { 
of all, and comprises twelve Bud' i 
dhist, seventeen Brahman, and ! 
five Jain works. The road down , 
the Ghat passes the south side of j 
the Kailasa Temple, and divides 1 
the caves into two groups of } 
twenty to the left and fourteen ; 
to the right of it. The Buddhist 
caves lie at the S. end and the 
Jam caves at the N. end of the 
hill face, which is nearly m. 
long, the Brahman caves and 
Kailasa being situated between 
the two groups. The local Brah- 
mans are apt to be rather trouble- 
some in pressing their claims on 
strangers as guides and recipients 
of alms. 

Buddhist Caves. — The first of 
these, to the S. of the Ghat road, 
and lying beyond three Brahman 
caves, is known as the Tin Thai 
(No. 12) or Three- Storied, and the 
farthest group at the S. end is 
named the Dherwara or Outcasts’ 
quarter ; the date of the latter 
extends from 350 to 550 a.d., and 
of the former from 650 to 750. 
No. 1 is a vihara, measuring 41 J ft. 
by 42^ ft., and having eight cells 
round it. No. 2 , which was a hall 
for worship, is approached by a 
flight of steps, and is reached 
through a veranda carved with 
figures and having large dwara- 
palas guardians, at the door of 
the cave, which is flanked by a 
window on either side. The in- 
terior measures 48 ft. square, and 

’ See FergUbSon’s Indian Aichitei^iiire, 
both vols. 


has a raised lateral gallery on each 
side ; the roof is supported by^ 
twelve columns arranged in a'" 
square, with high bases and 
cushion capitals, and the two 
galleries have four pillars in front 
of them — all richly decorated. A 
shrine, wdth huge dwarapalas and 
a colossal seated Buddha in the 
centre of it and two standing 
Buddhas on either hand, occupies 
the middle of the back wall, and 
on each side of the shrine is a 
double cell elaborately carved. 
No. 3 was a vihara or monastery, 
measuring 46 ft. square, and 
having twelve cells round it ; the 
twelve columns which support it 
have a drooping leaf or ear over 
their circular necks. In the N. 
end of the veranda is a chapel with 
a Buddha seated on a lotus sup- 
ported by snake -hooded figures, 
and on the right of this is a pictorial 
litany.^ No, 4 is a much-ruined 
vihara, now measuring 35 ft. by 
39 ft. deep. At the inner end is a 
cross aisle, beyond which a shrine, 
with a statue of Buddha under the 
Bo-tree and two cellv were exca- 
vated ; the columns are similar to 
those in No. 2. No. 5 , known as 
the Mahanwada, and formerly as 
the Dherwara cave, is again 
reached by steps. It is the largest 
single-storeyed vihara cave here, 
measuring 58 J ft. by 117 ft. deep. 
The roof is carried by two rows of 
ten columns, similar to those in 
No. 2, with two more between 
them at each end, and two stone 
benches run down the cave parallel 
to the ranges of pillars. On either 
side of the cave is a recess with 
two piUars and a number of cells, 
and at the end is a shrine. From 
its peculiar arrangement it has 
been conjectured that this cave 
was a hall of assembly. No 6, 
to the N. of No 5, is reached 
through a lower hall with three 
cells on the E. side ; it measures 
26 J it. by 43 ft., and has an ante- 
chamber and shrine at the back of 


1 See p. 58 



ROUTE 6. ELLORA BUDDHIST CAVES 


it, the former richly carved, and 
the latter containing a large seated 
Buddha. The figure on a stone 
at the foot of the goddess Saras- 
wati on the S. wall of the ante- 
chamber desersr’-es notice. Beyond 
it is yet a third hall, measuring 
27 ft by 29 ft., with three cells on 
the E. and N. sides. No. 9 lies in 


side, a shrine with a passage round 
it, and a seated image of Buddha 
in it, and a smaller hall on the W. 
side. On the face of the rock by 
this is a group of the child Buddha 
with his mother and father. The 
next excavation, No. 10, is the 
only chaitya or chapel cave of the 
group, and lies some way to the N. 





The Mahan wada Dheruara Cave. 

the N.W. angle beyond the third 
h^ill, and is reached from the cen- 
tral hall of No. 6 ; it has a well- 
carved fa9ade. No. 7, to which 
the stairs in the first hall of No. 6 
icad, is a large vihara, 51 J ft. by 
43i ft., supported by four columns 
^aly. No. 8 is entered from this, 
and IS a hall measuring 28 ft. by 
25 ft., with three cells on the North 


The Kailasa Temple. 

It 13 known as the Viswakarma 
or Carpenter’s cave, and is consid- 
ered lo date from the end of the 
7th century a.d. Fergusson {Ind. 
Arch., I, 204) takes 600 a.d. as the 
medium date for the Viswakarma 
and its surroundings, and 750 a.d. 
as the time when Buddhism began 
to wane m W. India, but waits for 
inscriptions and other precise 




io6 


ROUTE 6. MANMAR TO SECUNDERABAD 


India 


data. In front of it is a large 
court, which is reached by steps, 
and from which a second flight of 
steps leads to the veranda. The 
galleries round the court are borne 
by elegant piUars, and at the foot 
of each of these was a fine stone 
lion facing outwards. At the back 
of the side galleries are two chapels 
elaborately carved, and at the ends 
of the back gallery or veranda 
are two chapels with two columns 
in front of them and two cells. 
The fine railed terrace above the 
veranda is reached by a flight of 
steps in the N. gallery. The 
fa9ade is surmounted by a bold 
projecting cornice cut in the rock, 
an^ the great horseshoe window is 
here divided into lights, and loses 
its original shape. The interior 
measures 86 ft. by 43 ft. by 34 ft., 
and the nave and aisles, which run 
round the dagoba, are separated 
by twenty -eight columns. The 
dagoba is 27 ft. high, and has a 
colossal seated Buddha in the front 
of it. The roof is carved in imita- 
tion of ribs, and the proj ecting w^all 
under it and the above columns is 
carved with two rows of panels, 
the upper with Buddha and the 
lower with representations of 
ganas or dw^arfs. Farther N. is 
the Do Thai - cave (No. 11), which 
was subsequently discovered to 
have three storeys ; it is also 
preceded by a court. The lowest 
storey consists of a veranda only, 
with a shrine and two cells at the 
back of it. The middle storey has 
eight pillars in front and five 
chapels or cells, of which only the 
three richly - carved ones in the 
middle are completed. The centre 
chapel is a small hall with two 
pillars and a statue of Buddha in 
the shrine. N. again of the Do 
Thai is the Tin Thai- cave (No. 12), 
dating probably from about 700 
A.D. This again has a fine fore- 
court (a feature which adds great 
picturesqueness to the E flora 

1 Do Thal = 'l’wo -^toieys. 

Tin Thai = Three storeys. 


caves) , but in this instance without 
side galleries. Steps lead from 
the court into a great hall, 115 
ft. by 43 ft., with three rows of 
columns ; beyond this a second 
hall, 42 ft. by 35 ft., borne by six 
cblumns, extends up to the shnne, 
wdth a seated statue of Buddha on 
either \vafl. The shrine contains 
a colossal seated Buddha and a 
number of other figures. On the 
walls of the front hall a relief 
of Buddha with attendants and 
chuiin bearers is repeated in many 
places. 

Steps at the S.W. corner of 
the front hall lead to the middle 
storey, borne by tw^o row*s of eight 
pillars. The shrine is elaborately 
carved, atid two fine dwarapalas 
guard its door. The topmost floor 
is carried by five rows of eight 
columns, the hall measuring 115 ft. 
bv 70 ft. Along both side walls 
are large figures of Buddha seated 
on a throne, and on the back wall 
are the seven human Buddhas, 
seated under trees at the one side 
and under umbrellas at the other. 
The antechamber, which is very 
large and has two pillars, is sculp- 
tured all round with large figures ; 
in the shrine is a very large squat 
Buddha. 


Brahman Caves. — Fifty yds. N. 
of the Tin Thai Cave begins the 
group of sixteen Brahmanical 
caves, or seventeen including the 
Temple of Kailasa. The first of 
these IS a plain room only ; next 
comes the Ravan ka khai,^ and 
then the Das Avatara, between 
which and the Kailasa temple the 
Ghat road reaches the plain. All 
these were probably constructed 
in the 7th and early part of the 
8th centuries a.d., the temple being 
the latest in date. The Ravan ka 
khai presents a very difierent 
arrangement from that of any of 
the Buddhist caves. At the en- 
trance were four columns making 

^ Ravan ka khai=Exca\ation of Havana. 



ROUTE 6. BRAHMAN CAVES — KAILASA 


107 


a front aisle ; beiiind, twelve 
columns enclose the central space 
of the hall ; and beyond these is a 
shrine standing free at the end of 
the hall. The pillared portion 
measures nearly 55 ft. sq., and the 
depth of the cave to the back wall 
behind the shrine chapel is 85 ft. 
The S. waU bears Saiva sculptures 
oi the slaughter of the buffalo 
demon, Siva and Parvati pla\dng 
chess, and Siva dancing the tan- 
dava, Havana shaking Kailasa 
and Bhairava ; ^ while the N. wall 
has Vaishnava representations of 
Durga, Lakshmi, wife of Vishnu, 
the Varahani, or boar incarnation 
of Vishnu, a four-armed Vishnu, 
and Vishnu seated with Lakshmi, 
Inside the shrine is an altar and a 
broken figure of Durga ; in the 
passage outside it on the S. side is 
a group of three skeleton demon 
gods, Ganesh and the seven great 
goddesses, each with a child, and 
her cognisance below — \dz., Cha- 
niundi ^ and owl, Indrani and 
elephant, Varahani and boar, 
Lakshmi and Garuda eagle, 
Kaumari and peacock, Maheswari 
and buffalo, Brahmi and bans or 
goose. The Pits Avatara " cave 
IS next reached by a considerable 
flight of steps in the rock. It 
stands at the end of a large court 
shewn in the rock, which in this 
instance has a chapel in the middle 
of it and smaller shrines and cis- 
terns round it ; inside the chapel 
are four columns on a platform 
which perhaps once had an image 
of a bull (nandi) on it. The cave 
has two storeys, of which the lower 
IS carried by two rows of eight 
plain pillars, two more standing 
between four cells in the back wall. 
Lrom the N.W. corner of the cave 
a staircase leads first to a landing 

^ bee pp. 24, 25 

- The name of this goddess, a specially 
Liucious form of Durga, is derived from the 
two giants Chanda and Munda, whom she 
''lew. She wore an elephant hide and a 
necklace of corpses, and used to rejoice in 
human sacrifices. See play of Malati and 
Madhava in Wilson's Theatre of the Hindus. 

' Das Avatara— Ten Incarnations. 


with eleven reliefs of Hindu gods, 
beginning with Ganesh and ending 
with Durga, and then to the upper 
storey, which measures 95 ft. by 
109 ft. deep, and is supported by 
seven rows of six columns, those 
in the front row being richly 
carved. The sculptured scenes on 
the wails are mainly similar to 
those in the preceding cave ; 
among other noticeable scenes are 
Bhairava with a necklace of skulls 
and the marriage of Siva and 
Parvati on the N. wall ; Siva 
springing from a lingam and 
Lakshmi with elephants pouring 
water over her on the back wall ; 
and Vishnu, resting on the five- 
hooded serpent, and incarnated as 
a dwarf and as Narsingh (man- 
lion), on the S. wall. In the shrine, 
behind an antechamber with two 
columns, was a hngam or emblem 
of Siva. 


The Kailasa Temple is a mar- 
vellous structure, shaped and 
carved wholly out of rock in situ, 
the back wall of the court-pit in 
which it stands being over 100 ft, 
high, while the court itself is 
276 ft. long and 154 ft. broad. A 
rock screen, pierced by a fine 
entrance passage, closes the court 
on the \V. side ; near it stand 
two gigantic stone elephants. Be- 
tween the screen and the temple, 
and connected with both, is a fine 
nandi shrine, 26 ft, square and two 
storeys high, ^vith a stone flagstaff 
on either side ; and beyond this is 
the temple, measuring 164 ft. from 
front to back and 109 ft. from 
outside to outside of the side 
porches, and rising 96 ft. above the 
floor of the court. It consists of 
three parts — a porch, a central 
hall measuring 57 ft. by 55 ft., and 
borne by sixteen massive square 
columns arranged in four groups 
oi lour each, with broad aisles 
betvyeen, from W. to E. and from 
X. to S., and a dark shrine, 15 ft. 
square inside, with the Ganges and 
Jumna as guardians at the door. 



lo8 


ROUTE 6. MANMAR TO SECUNDERABAD 


India 


A passage leads all round the | 
shrine and to five chapels placed 
at the sides and back of it ; these | 
illustrate the shape of the cells on I 
the terraces of stmctural Buddhist 
viharas. The solid basement on 
which the temple stands is carved 
with a splendid series of immense 
elephants and monsters projected 
from the wall, and forms quite one 
of the finest remains of antiquity 
in the whole of India. At the 
sides of the bridge connecting the 
porch and nandi chapel, and of the 
staircases leading to the former, 
are large sculptures and reliefs, 
the latter representing scenes from 
the Ramayana. On the S. side 
of the court opposite the porch 
IS a rock-cut gallery, borne by 
two columns, with statues of 
the seven great goddesses and 
Ganesh, and E. of this is a plain 
cave, 55 ft. by 34 ft., borne by 
four pillars, and with a veranda, 
also with two columns. There is 
also an upper storey to this cave, 
once connected with the temple 
by a flying bridge, under which, 
on the temple wall, is a rehef of 
Havana shaking Kailasa. From 
this point the E. half of the court 
round to the N. side porch of the 
temple is encircled by a corridor 
cut in the rock, with twelve large 
compartments of sculpture on the 
S. side, nineteen on the E., and 
twelve again on the N., represent- 
ing various Saiva and Vaishnava 
scenes. The view of the temple j 
from under the great clifl at the E. j 
end is extremely impressive, W, 
o± the N. corridor is another, but 
plain, one, under the large Lankes- 
war cave. This is 108 ft. by 60 j 
ft., exclusive of a nandi chapel in i 
front of it, and is reached by a j 
dark winding staircase from yet a 
fifth corridor W. of the fourth. 
The cave is borne by sixteen 
pillars arranged as in the Kailasa 
temple, and by two rows of five 
and four more columns on the 
outer edge of the S. and W. sides, 
two in front of the shrine complet- 
ing the whole number of twenty- 


I seven ; between the columns of 
the outer lines is a sculptured rail, 

I and in the back aisle of the cave 
are a number of large sculptured 
scenes. At the sides of the door 
to the shrine are female guardians ; 
the altar inside has been broken. 
In the N.W. corner of the court is 
a small cave shrine with two pillars 
in the front decorated with repre- 
sentations of the three river god- 
desses of the Ganges, Jumna, and 
Saraswati ; and above this is a 
small unfinished excavation. 

A footpath near the N. side of 
Kailasa leads up to the plateau 
past a cave wath a Tnmurti, or 
Triad figure of Siva, in it (p. 23). 
Farther N. are four unimportant 
Brahman caves, beyond which the 
Rameswara cave is reached. This 
is a Saiva temple, once with a 
porch in front of it, borne by three 
rows of four pillars very varied in 
design ; it has but few carved 
scenes. A corridor formerly ran 
round three sides of the forecourt. 
The next important cave is known 
as the Nilkantha ; it has a small 
ruined chapel in the forecourt, 
from which thirteen steps lead 
into the cave, measuring 70 ft. by 
44 ft. In the shrine is a lingam. 
The Khumharwada cave, 95 ft. by 
27 ft., including the smaller hall 
at the back, has a figure of the 
sun god in his seven-horse chariot 
in the vestibule to the shrine. The 
next temple is a large hall with 
several chapels, mea.suring 112 ft. 
by 67 ft , and supported* by 
columns of the Elephanta type ; 
at the door of the shrine are very 
large dwarapalas. The path now 
reaches a fine ravine, over the 
scarped head of which a waterfall 
descends after rain. On the S. 
side of this is the Vaishnava, 
Milkmaid's, or Gopi cave, and on 
the N. side the cave named 
Sitaki Nahani (or bath). The 
veranda of the former is ruined, 
but on the back wall of it pierced 
by a door and four windows, are 
various carved scenes ; the inner 
hail measures 53 ft. by 22 ft. 



ROUTE 6. 


JAIN CAVES 


109 


Xiie second is an extremely pictur- 
csque excavation, which will re- 
mind every one of the great cave 
at Elephanta, believed to be 
slightly more modern than this, 
which dates from about 650-725. 
It consists of a principal hall, 
facing nearly W., wath a recess on 
the S. side opening on to the 
ravine, and a larger recess of 
irregular shape on the N. side 
The central hail measures 149 ft. 
in depth and 95 ft. in breadth, 
including the two side aisles, which 
lead to the recesses, and is borne 
by four rows of four columns, the 
two eastward of the middle rows 
being merged in the walls of the 
free shrine, while two more stand 
at the \V. end of these rows and 
coi respond with those at the sides 
of the entrance. The steps to this 
are guarded by two lions, and in 
front of them is a circular platform 
for a nandi. In the veranda and 
front aisles of the cave are carved 
reliefs much as at Elephanta. 
The shrine is a small square room, 
approached by four doors as in 
that cave, and contains a hngam. 
From the S. recess steps descend 
to the ravine, of which a charming 
view is obtained at this point 
The N. recess is also reached by 
steps guarded by lions ; a small 
low cave exists at the E. end of 
this, and from the S.W. corner of 
the recess a passage has been 
broken into an excavation with 
six pillars ; there is usually water 
in this wing, which prevents any 
close examination of it. 

Jain Caves. — The five Jain 
caves, dating from the 8th to the 
13th century, lie about 200 yds. 
beyond the most northerly of the 
Frahman caves, the first being the 
Chhota Kailasa, some way up the 
face of the hill. This temple is 
m a pit measuring 130 ft. by 80 
ft , and has a hall 36 ft. square, 
borne by sixteen columns, and a 
shrine 14 J ft. by iij ft. It was 
imitated from the great Kailasa 
temple, and left incomplete. The 


Indra Sabha is entered through 
a rock screen facing S., in front 
of wEich, to the F., is a temple 
wnth statues of Parasnath, Gomata 
Swami with creepers round his 
hmbs, and the last Tirthankar, 
Mahavira. In the S.E. corner of 
the court is a large elephant, and 
opposite it was a monolithic 
column, in front of a cave with six 
columns, containing reliefs of the 
same three Tirthankars. In the 
centre of the front of the court is a 
chapel with a quadruple image of a 
Jain saint ; at the back of the 
court is an incomplete hall borne 
by twelve columns, with two more 
between the S. and N, colonnades 
and the veranda and shrine. Over 
this, reached by a staircase in the 
veranda, is a second hall with 
wings to the front of it, each with 
a small temple borne by four 
columns. The hall, measuring 
55 ft. by 65 ft , is supported by 
twelve pillars, in the centre of 
wiuch w as once an image ; the 
w’alls all round are divided into 
compartments filled with Jain 
saints, and the shrine has a statue 
of Mahavira. The figures at the 
ends of the veranda are noticeable, 
as is the cornice round the shrine 
door. The Jagannatli Sabha, a 
httle farther on, is also a double 
cave with a court in front of it. 
On the W. ^ving of this is a small 
hall, and at the side of the main 
cave is a small chapel ; the cave 
is supported by four columns in 
front and by four more inside ; 
the sculptures in it are in an un- 
usually perfect condition. The 
outside staircase to the upper 
storey leads to another hall, 55 
ft. by 45 ft., the ceihng of w^hich 
w^as once painted in concentric 
circles, and the w^alls of which are 
sculptured all over with figures of 
Mahavira and Parasnath. This 
cave connects internally with the 
Indra Sabha, and also with 
another to the W. of it consist- 
ing of a veranda with two columns 
and a small hall ivith four. On 
the top of the hill in which the 



no 


ROtTTE 6. MANMAR TO SECXTNDERABAD 


India 


Jain caves are excavated is a 
rock-hewn statue of Parasnath 
1 6 ft. high, protected by a struc- 
tural building raised over it some 
200 years ago. 

It may be found more conveni- 
ent to proceed by tonga from 
EUora to Aurangabad, 13 m. (a 
small extra charge is made for 
this), than to go there by railway 
from Daulatabad, 

71 m. Aurangabad (D.B.). This 
thnving city (population 34,902), 
which has a considerable trade in 
cotton and wheat, was first called 
Khirki, and was founded in 1610 
by Malik Ambar, the head of the 
Abyssinian faction in the Ahmad- 
nagar State, The town lies to the 
E. of the Cantonment, i m. N.E. 
of it is the grand Mausoleum of 
Itahi’a DauraniJ wife of Aurang- 
zeb. The great door at the 
gateway is plated with brass ^ 
and along the edge is written, 
“ This door of the noble mauso- 
leum was made in 1089 a.h., when 
Ataullah was chief architect, by 
Haibat Rai."' Near the inscrip- 
tion is an infinitesimally small 
figure, which is said to be a bird, 
indistinctly carved, and there is a 
sirmlar carving on the door of the 
mausoleum itself. It is a common 
joke amongst natives, when any 
man asserts that he has been to 
this mausoleum, to ask if he saw 
the bird there, and if he answers in 
the negative, to dispute his having 
seen the mausoleum at all. The 
curious roof of the gateway of the 
mausoleum should be observed. 
In the garden is a long narrow 
basin of water, in which fountains 
used to play, and on either side of 
the water is a walk and ornamental 
wall. The main fault of this other- 
wise beautiful building, which is 
compared to the Taj, is the want 
of sufficient height in the entrance 

^ By some wiiters the lady i-s said to have 
been a daughter of the Emperor, which is a 
mistake. The gravestone is nameless. 


archway. In the wall of the 
mausoleum is a second but much 
smaller door, only 6 ft. high, plated 
v.hth brass, where the second bird 
is pointed out. The carving of the 
flowers on this door is curious, and 
that of the dragons particularly 
so. The bird is on the edge of the 
door close to the upper central 
knob. Those who wish to enter 
the tomb are expected to take ofi 
their shoes. The cenotaph is 
enclosed in an octagonal screen of 
white marble lattice-work exquis- 
itely carved, and stands on a raised 
marble platform.^ The place for 
the slab is empty, and nothing 
but earth appears. This is much 
approved by Moslems, as showing 
humility. In the gallery above 
the tomb is a marble door exquis- 
itely carved. The Government of 
the Nizam has gone to great 
expense in restoring this mauso- 
leum. Below the right comer of 
the platform is a second tomb, 
said to contain the remains of 
Rabi’a Dauram's nurse There is 
no inscription. To the W of the 
mausoleum is a mosque of brick 
faced with cement (chiinam) of a 
dazzling whiteness. The pave- 
ment is covered with tracings of 
prayer-carpets. The mimbar, or 
pulpit, is of marble. 

The Pan Chakld, or water-mill, 
the shrine of Baba Shah Muzafiar, 
a Chishti (p. 190) and spiritual pre- 
ceptor of Aurangzeb, is perhaps 
the prettiest and best-kept shrine 
in this part of India. It is situ- 
ated on the right of the road from 
the Cantonment to the Begampura 
bridge, and on the very edge of the 
Kham, the river of Aurangabad. 
In the garden is a brimming tank 
of clear water, full of fish from i ft. 
to 3 ft. long, of a species called 
Khol. This tank overflows into a 
lower one, and that again into a 
narrow conduit. Beyond the first 

^ Tavernier mentions this tomb in his 
travels, and .states that he met carts coming 
down from N. India with white marble for it. 



ROUTE 6. GOVERNMENT OFFICES— CAVES OF AURANGABAD III 


tank and the ornamental garden 
is a second and much larger one. 
It la entirely supported on vaults, 
with two rows of massive pillars. 
Below is a noble hall, reached by 
steep steps, down to the level of 
the river. On the right of the 
second tank is a fine mosque, the 
roof of which is supported by four 
rows of massive pillars. In tv'O of 
the rows the pillars are of teak, 
and in two of masonry. At the 
S.W. corner of this mosque, in a 
little garden, is the diminutive 
Tomb of the saint, of beautiful 
light-coloured marble. 

I m. N. from the Pan Chakki is 
the Mecca Gate of the city and the 
Mecca Bridge, which are probably 
some centuries old. The top of 
the parapet of the gateway is 42 ft. 
above the road which passes over 
the bridge. The flanlang towers 
are surmounted by domes. Inside 
the gate there is a black stone 
mosque built by Malik Ambar. 
In the centre is a mche with the 
Buine Name, and “ Victory is 
near.” Above that is the Kahma 
and some verses of the Koran 
written in difficult Tughra. Close 
by is a recess with a bell-shaped 
ornament. This is perhaps the 
oldest mosque in the city. 

The Government Ofhees are 2 m. 
to the S.E. of the Cantonment, and 
mor near the Kila Ark or citadel, 
built by Aurangzeb. This spot 
long ago was entirely covered 
With cactus and jungle, the haunt 
of hyenas and other wild animals. 
It was, however, the site of gentle- 
men's houses in the reign of 
Aurangzeb, when Aurangabad was 
the capital of the Deccan. Sir 
Salar Jang ordered the site to be 
cleared, and, when this was done, 
numerous reservoirs, fountains, 
s-bd other works of interest were 
< 3 iscovered. 'these have been 
repaired, and the wilderness has 
literally been changed into a 
hlooming garden. Only one arch- 
way of Aurangzeb’s citadel re- 
mains, but here fifty- three great 


Princes, like the Maharajas of 
Jaipur and Jodhpur, attended the 
court of the Emperor with thou- 
sands of armed retainers, and 
Aurangabad was then the Delhi of 
the South. As soon as Aurangzeb 
died the Princes departed, and 
Aurangabad sank at once into 
comparative insignificance. The 
Jami Masjid is on the right of the 
road, amid a grove of some of the 
finest trees in India. One im- 
mense Ficus Indica stands close 
on the road and shades some 300 
ft. of it. The Mosque and min- 
arets are low, but the fa9ade is 
rendered striking by an orna- 
mental band of carving 2 ft. broad 
along the whole front. Over the 
central niche are the Kalima and 
inscriptions in Tughra writing, as 
in Malik Ambar ’s Mosque. This 
mosque is wonderfully well kept, 
and there is' what is not seen any- 
where else, a net covering the 
entire faqade, so that no birds or 
other creatures can enter. Mahk 
Ambar built half this mosque and 
Aurangzeb the other half. 

The Caves of Aurangabad are 
beyond the N. outskirts of the city 
near Rabi’a Dauram’s mausoleum. 
A road has recently been con- 
structed which goes right up to 
the foot of the hill, wherein the 
caves are excavated. The nine 
Buddhist caves here are the latest 
of all Buddhist works in India, 
and date principally from the 
yth century ; there are five in the 
W. group, and four in the other 
lying J m. farther E. No. 1, at the 
W. end of the first group, is a 
vihara, a good deal higher up than 
the other four caves adjoining it. 
Only the porch and veranda (76^ 
ft. by 9 ft.) were completed, and 
the former has been crushed by the 
fall of a mass of rock ; the hall was 
intended to be one of twenty-eight 
pillars. No. 2 was intended to be 
a hall for worship only. At the 
back of the veranda, 21 J ft. by 
13 ft., is an aisle, and behind this 
is a shrine with a passage all round 



II2 


ROUTE 6. MANMAR TO SECUNDERABAD 


India 


it ; at the sides of the shrine door 
are two tall figures standing on a 
lotus flower and ndga figures, and 
inside is a seated figure of Buddha, 
9 ft. high, in the teaching attitude. 
Many reliefs of similar figures are 
on the walls of the shrine and the 
passages. No. 3 is a vihara hall, 
4if ft. by 42^ ft., with twelve 
columns splendidly decorated as 
in the late caves at Ajanta ; there 
is a decorated recess also, and on 
each side two cells. In the front 
corners of the shrine are a number 
of hfe-sized worshipping figures 
with garlands and elaborate head- 
dresses. No. 4 IS a chaitya or 
chapel cave, much ruined. It was 
only 38 ft. long and 22 J ft. broad, 
and was carried by seventeen 
plain columns ; the dagoba was 
nearly 6 ft. in diameter. It dates 
probably from the ist or 2nd 
century. Of No. 5* only the 
shrine remains, now dedicated to 
the Jain Parasnath. No. 6, the 
first of the E. caves, is again much 
higher up the hill face than the 
other three caves in that group. 
The hall was borne by four 
columns, and the antechamber of 
the shrine by two more ; in the 
side walls are four ceils, and in the 
back wafl two The shrine has a 
passage round it, and a smaller 
Buddha with smaller worshippers 
in front. There are traces of 
painting on the roof of the front of 
the cave. No. 7 has a veranda 
with four columns and a chapel 
at either end, and a hall 38 ft. by 
28 ft,, in the centre of which the 
shrine has been placed, while 
three cells have been excavated in 
each side wall, and two chapels 
with sculptures in the back wall. 
To the left of the entrance to the 
hall is one of the best representa- 
tions of the Buddhist Litany 
{p. 58) ; to the right is a figure of 
Manjusri, patron of the Mahayana 
sect. The front of the shrine has 
three large female figures on either 
side ; on the left of the figure of 
Buddha in the shrine is the repre- 
sentation of a dance and of female 


musicians. No. 8 consists of a 
ruined lower storey and an incom- 
plete upper storey, with a hall 
27 ft. by 20 ft. No. 9 is also 
higher up in the clifl. It consist.s 
of a long veranda hall with three 
chambers and shrines opening 
from it. On the W. wall is a sculp- 
ture of the dead Buddha 16 ft. 
long. The sculptures and arrange- 
ments of these caves show a 
distinct approximation to the 
I Brahman caves of EUora. 

I no m. from Manmar is Jalna 
I (D.B.), a Cantonment of the late 
Hyderabad Contingent (popula- 
tion 20,oooj. From this place 
the battle-field of Assaye, 30 m. 
distant, may be visited in the 
inside of a day, if arrangements 
are made beforehand by taking a 
motor car or for a tonga and two 
relays of horses on the road, 
through the Tonga Mail Agent of 
the place. Several old forts, such 
as once covered all the Deccan, 
are passed en route, and the two 
fortified villages of Pipalgaon 
and Warur on the Kaitna 
river, which showed the Duke of 
Welhngton where the ford was, 
still stand on either side of the 
stream. A fine view of the field 
of battle fought on 23rd Septem- 
ber 1S03 is obtained from the 
tower of the fort of the village of 
Assaye, on the bank of the Juah, 
between which and the Kaitna the 
Mahratta army was drawn up 
after it was compelled by the 
British manoeuvre to change front 
from the hne of the Kaitna, which 
it originally faced. The forces of 
Sindhia and of the Bhonsla Raja 
of Nagpur consisted of i6,ooo 
[ infantry and 20,000 cavalry, and 
the British force of 4500 men all 
told ; the killed and wounded on 
either side were 12,000 and 1600. 
N. of it hes the ^ot where the 
British who fell in the battle were 
buried. It is under contemplation 
to erect a memorial here. 

392 m. from Manmar is Secun- 
derabad (p. 514). 



ROUTE 7. 


BHUSAWAL AlIRAOTI 


ROUTE 7. 

BHUSAWAL to CALCUTTA 
i HOWRAH) by Akola, WaxdLa 
(expedition to Warora and 
Chanda), Nagpur. Kampti, Raipur, 
Bilaspur, and Sini, and from 
Sini to (a) Purulia and Asansol, 
and (b) Kharakpur. 

By tliis line a new route from 
Bombay to Calcutta (1223 m., or 
about 130 m. shorter than any 
other) is opened up The fares 
are Rs.91.1, Rs.45.9, and Rs 13.13 
1Rs.15.10 by the mail train). The 
time occupied by this is 42^ 
hours. 

It taps an immense territory of 
the Central Provinces which had 
previously been inaccessible to ex- 
ternal trade, and provides an 
outlet for the great wheat and 
seed-producing district of Chattis- 
'^arh (the thirty-six forts), one of 
“ the granaries of India.” The 
scenery in parts of the line, notably 
at Darekassa, Dongargarh, and 
Saninda (p. 120), is very fine. 

The Route from Bombay to 

276 m. from Bombay, Bhusawal 
junction (R.) is described in 
Route 2. 

Soon after leaving Bhusawal 
the traveller enters the districts 
of Berar (population 3,057,162), 
'vhich continue almost all the way 
to Ragpur. They belong to H.H. 
the Nizam, but were assigned to 
the British by a treaty, in 1853, 
tor the support of the Hyderabad 
Contingent Force. This treaty 
■^vas remodelled in December i860, 
by which, for the Nizam’s services 
in the Mutiny of 1857, his debt of 
50 lakhs was cancelled, the dis- 
tricts of Dharaseo and the Raichur 
Boab were restored, and the con- 
fiscated territory of Sholapur w^as 
ceded to him. By a recent arrange- 
ment of December 1902, made 


113 

with H.H. the NTzam, involving 
a fixed payment of 25 lakhs yearly 
to the Hyderabad State, the 
permanent administration of the 
Berar districts by the British 
Government has been secured, 

I and they have been added to the 
i Government of the Central Pro- 
vinces ; while the Hyderabad 
Contingent Force has been form- 
ally added to the Indian Army. 

The fertihty of the Berar dis- 
tricts, which form one of the 
richest and most extensive cotton- 
fields in India, is very striking. 
The soil is black loam overlying 
basalt. The rainfall is regular 
and abundant, and at harvest- 
time the whole surface is one 
immense waving sheet of crops. 
The districts of Berar are Akola 
Amraoti, Buldana, and YeotmaL 

333 m. Jalanib junction station. 

Branch 8 m. S. to Khanigaon 
\ station, where there is an im 
^ portant cotton mart. 

363 m, from Bombay, Akola 
station is the headquarters station 
of the West Berar district of 
that name. 

A road from Akola runs S. 
72 m. to the important town and 
mihtary station of About 

30 m. from Akola is the town of 
Mekkar, and 15 m S. of Mehkar 
is a curious soda lake called 
Lonar, formed in the crater of an 
extinct volcano. The salt is used 
for washing and dyeing purposes, 
and is exported in considerable 
quantities. 

413 m. Badnera junction sta- 
tion (refreshment and waiting- 
room, D.B., and spinning and 
weaHng mill). 

Branch 6 m. N, to Amraoti 
station (waiting-room, D.B. near 
railway station). Amraoti is the 
headquarters of the Commissioner 
of the Berar Division. There is a 
cotton market here. 

The only object of interest near 

H 



route 


BHUSAWAL To CALCUTTA 


India 


/• 


114 

IS the hill fort of Gawilgarh a 
stronghold of the Raja of Berar, 
which was taken by Colonel 
Stevenson on 15th December 1803, 
co-operating with General Welles- 
ley, afterwards the Duke of Well- 
ington, in the Second Mahratta 
War. It is situated S.E. of Chik- 
alda, which is a small sanatorium, 
dating from 1839, on a plateau in 
the Satpura hills, about 3664 ft. 
above sea-level, 5 m. long by f m. 
broad. It is visited during the 
hot season chiefly by a few officers 
from the neighbouring head- 
quarters of Nagpur and Amraoti ; 
the bungalow accommodation is 
very limited, and the place does 
not attract non-offlcial visitors. 
There is no railway communica- 
tion to this place, but there is a 
good road 30 m. from Elhchpur 
(the nearest railway station to 
the fort), and journeys are per- 
formed by tongas. There are 
D.B.'s at convenient distances 
along the route. 

471 m. Wardha (R.), chief town 
of the Western District of the Cen- 
tral Provinces on the Great Indian 
Peninsula Railway, 471 m. from 
Bombay and 49 m. from Nagpur, is 
the junction station for the branch 
line to Warora, and to the Ballarsha 
Colliery in the Chanda District. 
The towm is favourably situated 
for trade, and is steadily increas- 
ing in importance as a consider- 
able cotton mart. There are a : 
D.B , a Sarai, a Town Hall, 
High School, Church, and Circuit 
House ; also a Medical Mission of 
the Free Church of Scotland, with 
fine Hospital. The only building 
worth notice in the heart of the 
town is the late Rao Bahadur 
Bachraj’s temple of Lakshmina- 
rayan, which is richly carved and 
decorated. 

Hinganghat, a station on the 
Wardha Ballarsha branch, 21 m, 
from Wardha, is a very old and 
important cotton market. There 
are a waiting-room at the station, 


and a traveller’s bungalow close 
by, and two cotton-spinning and 
w'eaving mills, besides a few cotton 
ginning and pressing factories. 

45 m. Warora station, a town in 
the Chanda District of the Central 
Provinces, and a considerable 
cotton mart. 

74 m. is Chanda, the head- 
quarters of the Chanda District 
(D.B.), and a most attractive spot. 
The town is surrounded by a con- 
tinuous wall of cut stone 5J m. 
in circuit. Inside the walls are 
detached villages and cultivated 
fields. The fohage is beautiful, 
and there are extensive forest 
preserves near. The tombs of 
the Gond kings, and the temples 
of Achaleswar, Maha Kali, and 
Murhdhar, are all worth a visit. 
At LaJpet, in the town, a large 
space is covered with monohth 
figures of gigantic size, which 
appear to have been prepared for 
some great temple never erected, 
dlie branch line is to be extended 
to Warangal (p. 515). 

520 m. from Bombay, Nagpur, 
=♦^5 lat. 21° 9' N., long. 79° 7' E. 
(703 m. from Calcutta) is the 
capital of the Central Provinces, 
which have an area of 100,000 sq. 
m. and a population of 16,033,310.^ 
The present Chief Commissioner is 
the Hon. Sir Benjamin Robertson, 
K.C.S.I., C.I.E. 

The District of Nagpur itself has 
an area of 3840 sq. m. Among the 
inhabitants are 48,991 aborigines 
called Gonds ; the total Gond 
population for the whole of the 
Central Provinces being 2,333,893. 
Of these the hill-tribes have black 
skins, flat noses, and thick lips. 
A cloth round the waist is their 
chief garment. The rehgious be- 
Uef varies from village to village. 
Nearly aU worship the cholera 

^ Inclusive of Berar and the Feudatory 
States. 







ROUIE 

iLu the suiall-pox, and there arc 
lidccs oi berpent' worship. 

Ihe ancient history of the 
ihovinces is very obscure. In the 
-:h century ad. a race of for- 
' ’^ners, Yavanas, rule’d from the 
''itpura plateau, and between the 
L< ’.h and 13th centuries Rajputs 
'I the Lunar race governed the 
-•Hintr\ round Jubbulpore, while 
t!ie Pramars of Malwa ruled tern- 
t-)7y South of the Satpuras. The 
'.'ii.inda dynasty of Gonds rei,^ned 
[ robably as earlv as the loth or 
lUh century, and the Hailnuas 
c: Chattibgarh were of more 
'neieiit date. In 1308 there were 
i'nnces reigning at Khcrla, on the 
>^-.tpiira plateau, of whom Fenshta 
".vs: “They possessed all the 
l-ais of Gondwana." In 1467 
Ui‘_‘y were conquered by the 
ij-hmam kings. In the next 
' ‘Utury the Gonds again rose to 
: a\cr ; but in 1741 the Mahratta 
hhonslas invaded the country. 
Viler the events of 1817 the British 
•'unexed the Saugor and Narbada 
lyiTi tones, and in 1S53, on the 
'I'-ith of the last Raja, Raghoji 
111-, without heir of Ins body. 
Aagpur and other Districts were 
taken over, and in 1861, with the 
t^.rri tones above mentioned, were 
lormcd by Lord Canning into the 
' entral Provinces. On the 13th 
of June 1 85 7 the native cavalry of 
the Na gpur Irregular Force con- 
spired with the Muhammadans of 
the city to rise against the British, 
hut tile Madras infantry and 
f^^rtillcry remained loyal, and the 
t'utbreak was suppressed, chiefly 
hv the resource and energy of 
Yr R. S. Ellis, the Deputy Com- 
missioner. In anticipation of the 
possibility of further trouble 
^itabaldi Fort was provisioned to 
^tand a siege, but fortunately the 
emorgency did not arise. 

Nagpur (population 134,712) is 
the headquarters of the Govern- 
ment of the Central Provinces, 
the municipality includes, besides 
the city, the suburb and civil sta- 
tion of Sitabaldi. In the centre, 


. NAGPUR I 15 

Mh uf the railway station, is 
I Sitabaldi hill, crowned by a fort 
! (built in iSiS, and possessing 
I many antique specimens of arms), 

I which commands a line view, and 
j is Itself a landmark for miles 
‘ round At Sitabaldi, on the 
: 26th and 2 7lh of November 1S17, 

I the Mahratta troops of the Bhonsla 
Raja, Appa Sahib, attacked the 
resident, Mr (afterwards Sir 
Richard) Jenkins, and the few 
troops he had been able to as- 
! semble After a desperate engage - 
1 ment, during which the Mahrattas 
! for a time got possession of one of 
j the two eminences of the Sitabaldi 
; hill, the British were at length 
I victorious, the fortunes of the day 
! being turned by the brilhant 
charge of a small body of native 
Lavalry under Captain Fitzgerald. 
But the disbandment of the army 
was only obtained after a second 
battle, in which the Malirattas 
were completely routed. Appa 
Sahib escaped, and died in exile. 
A child was raised to the tlirone 
under the title of Raghoji III., 
and on his death, in 1S53, the 
country was annexed by the 
British. 

W. of Sitabaldi hill is the 
civil station, in which are the new 
Secretariat, a fine building in 
modified Renaissance style ; the 
Courts ; the Victoria Memorial 
Technical Institute ; the new 
Central Provinces' Club ~ house ; 
the English Church has been en- 
larged into a handsome Cathedral ; 
a large Roman Catholic Cathedral 
and school . an important branch 
of the IMissions of the Free Church 
of Scotland ; two hospitals for 
men and women , and a fine 
Mahratta church. Beyond, to 
the N,, are the Police Lines and 
the Sadr Bazar, and the suburb 
of Takli, once the headquarters 
of the Nagpur Irregular Force. 
There is a fine new Government 
House on Takli hill ; in the hot 
weather the residence of the Chief 
Commissioner is at Pachmarhi. 
Sitabaldi is the suburb South of 



India 


II6 ROUTE 7. BHUSAWAL TO CALCUTTA 


tlie hill of that iiaixie. Below the 
glacis is the railway station ; be- 
yond, to the E., is the Juma Taiao, 
a large tank ; and still farther E. 
is the city, hidden in foliage. 
Three great roads lead from the 
civil station through the city — one 
on the N. and one on the S. bank 
of the tank ; the third, and most 
Northerly of the three, crosses 
the railway by a bridge to the N. 
of the station. Besides the Juma 
Taiao, there are two other fine 
tanks, the Ambajheri and Telink- 
heri, 4 m. and 3 m. respectively W. 
of the city. The former of these, 
built by the Bhonslas over a 
century ago, was in 1873 brought 
into use as a reservoir. The city's 
water supply has since been very 
greatly increased by the opening, 
in 1 91 1, of the large Gorewara 
reservoir, about 4 m. to the N.W. 
of the civil station. The chief 
gardens are the Aladiaraj Bagh, 
near Sitabaldi, the Tulsi Bagh, 
inside the city, and the Paldi, 
Shakardara, Sonagaon, and Telin- 
khen in the suburbs. 

Nagpur is famous for its deli- 
cious oranges, quantities of which 
are exported. There are two 
large cotton-mills. There is also 
a museum. 

The Bhonsla Palace, in the city, 
built of black basalt, was burned 
down in i86.^ , and only the Nakkar 
Khana, or Hall of Music, remains. 
Near it are the Hislop College and 
the Town Hall. The Morris Col- 
lege was also formerly in this 
neighbourhood, but has been 
removed to the old Residency 
building, at the foot of the W^estern 
slope of Sitabaldi hill. 

The Cenotaphs of the Bhonsla 
Rajas are in the Shukrawari 
quarter, to the S. of the city. 

The Great Indian Peninsula 
Railway terminates at Nagpur, 
and from this point E. to Calcutta 
the line belongs to the Bengal 
Nagpur Railway. 

529 m. Kampti (D.B.), a large 
town and military Cantonment 


(population 17,155), on the right 
bank of the Kanhan river, which 
is spanned by a handsome stone 
bridge that cost /go.ooo. Close 
I to it is the railway bridge— a fine 
I iron structiJre that cost 00,000. 

I Kampti dates only from the estab- 
1 lishment of the military station in 
1821. The English church was 
built in 1833. and there is a highly 
useful Roman Cathohe establish- 
ment of the Order of St Francis de 
Sales, vdth a church and convent. 
There are five mosques and a 
number of Hindu temples. 

Beyond Kampti, and 25 m. N.E. 
of Nagpur, from which it is easily 
accessible since the opening of a 
new branch of the Bengal-Nagpur 
Railway, is the Tahsil town of 
Ramtek (population 8732). The 
town runs in a straggling line along 
the foot of a fine, well-wooded 
hill sacred to Rama, from whom 
it takes its name. The hill is 
crowned by a citadel with a double 
line of defences, and within the 
citadel, at the Western end of the 
summit, stands a group of temples, 
which are the object of pilgrimages 
from all parts of India. The inner 
fine of defences was built by 
Raghoji I., the first Bhonsla ruler 
of Nagpur, but the citadel itself is 
much older, and the temples are 
shown by inscriptions to be at 
least 600 years old. The principal 
temples are those of Rama, and 
Sita, his wife. They are in a fine 
state of preservation, and their 
white roofs can be seen for a great 
distance. Below the Eastern end 
of the hill, in a picturesque valley, 
lies the village of Ambala. with ‘'a 
small tank surrounded by temples, 
erected by individual devotees. 
From Ambala a flight of steps rises 
to the summit of Ramtek Hill, 
and it is by this route that the 
pilgrims ascend. 

559 m. Bhandara Road station 
(D.B. near) is about 7 m. from the 
district headquarters, which is 
close to the Wainganga river. It 
is the headquarters of a district of 



ROUTE 7. GONDTA NAINPUR lT7 


the same name, and contains the 
Usual public offices, schools, and 
institutions. Population 13,728 
There are a D.B. and a Club. In 
the town there is a ^hop (Tyeb 
All’s) where oilman’s stores (not 
in great variety) can be obtained. 
Bhandara is on the main road from 
Xagpur to Raipur. A branch road 
runs to the railway station. 

601 m. Condia junction. A line 
runs from here *N. to Nainpur, 
74 m., and Jubbulpore (p. 3'd, 
70 m farther. A loop-hne also 
uins S. to Xagbir, whence one 
branch goes to Nagpur and an- 
other to Chanda. There is a good 
D B. not far from the railway 
station. At that station there 
are waiting- and refreshment- 
rooms, and from the latter good 
stores can be bought. From 
Condia a road runs Southwards tc 
Axjuni. where it joins the Great 
Eastern Road from Nagpur to 
Raipur, and the Districts beyond 
The forests in the neighbourhood 
of Arjuni (D.B.) offer attractions 
fo the sportsman. 

Nainpur is the station through 
wluch the Mandla District is en- 
tered This District has an area 
of 5089 sq. rn. ; population 
405,234. The narrow-gauge Jub- 
buipore - Gondia branch of the 
Bengal - Nagpur Railway passes 
through two stations Nainpur 
and Pindrai, within its boun- 
daries. From Nainpur a branch 
line (27 m., opened in 1909) runs 
X E. through Jamgaon, Chiraidon- 
gn and Bamhni-Banjar stations to 
Mandla towm, the headquarters of 
the district. The railway station 

on the opposite side of the river 
Xarbada to the town ; it is, how- 
ever, included in municipal limits 
(Mandla Municipahty ; popula- 
tion 9380). There is no hotel, 
but a D.B. affords a cer- 
tain amount of accommodation. 
Xampur, a rijsing village of 3383 
inhabitants, also has an excellent 
D.B. Pindrai has no D.B. 


; From an archseological point of 
j view IMandla is of some interest as 
j the capital of the Garha-Mandla 
! Rajas. The dynasty was of 
j Dravidian, not of Aryan, origin, 
j and at one time was predominant 
I in Central India. Driven from 
I the nch plains of Jubbulpore and 
: Saugor, however, the Rajas re- 
established themselves first at 
i Ramnagar, a riverside village 
, 10 m. from Mandla, and after- 
I wards at Mandla. Hirde Shah, 
who reigned in the middle of 
the 17th century, built himself 
a lordly palace at Ramnagar. Its 
ruins possess some interest, but 
the palace has no architectural 
beauty. It is a massive three- 
storied pile, built for strength 
alone, and commands a magnifi- 
cent view of the river Narbada, 
which flows at its foot Mandla 
fort was built a few years later 
by a succeeding Raja , on three 
sides it is surrounded by the 
Narbada, and on the fourth by a 
deep ditch A lofty wall, studded 
with bastions, once encircled it, but 
Mandla masons have robbed the 
old battlements piecemeal of their 
stones, and the site of the fort is 
now a luxuriant tropical jungle. 
The foundations of the wall, how- 
ever, are still visible, and a few 
of the larger towers have survived 
the forces of nature and defied the 
mason’s pick 

. The nver Narbada, which rises 
a mile or two outside the Eastern 
border of the District, forms in the 
neighbourhood of Mandla a ten- 
mile reach, nearly half a mile 
broad and of considerable depth. 
Its banks are studded with temples 
and ghats, for the water hereabout 
is of peculiar sanctity, and bathing 
in the sacred stream is popularly 
supposed to wash away all sins. 
The only temple of antiquarian 
interest is at Kukarramath, built 
by Jains about the loth century. 
It is situated 9 m. from Dindori 
and 60 m from Mandla. Local 
gossip has woven a cunous tissue 
of legend round its origin, but the 



Il8 ROUTE 7. r^lUSAWAL TO CALCUTTA Ifldta 


commonest superstition is that a 
cobra wth red eyes circle-s the 
neck of the image every nigt&t and 
spreads his hood over Mahadeo’s 
head. 

The District is rich in forests, 
which teem with game. "Tiger, 
panther, bison, sambhar, bara- 
singha, and chital are only a few 
of the varieties that may be Tound 
in this happy hunting-grouaid of 
the big-game shooter. Means of 
transport and communication, 
however, are very difficult. Carts 
are practically useless, and heavy 
luggage must be carried either 
by camels or pack-bullocks. The 
easiest means of approach in g the 
Eastern parts of the District is 
by train to Birsinghpur, 0*1 the 
Bilaspur-Katni extension oT the 
Bengal - Nagpur Railway, and 
thence by an indifferent roa d, 4^ 
m. in length, to Dindori, the head- 
quarters of the Eastern Tahsil. 

From Nainpur, in the Ma.ndla 
District, there is also a line (narrow- 
gauge) E. to Chhindwara vid 
Seoni and Chhapara, a distan ce of 
88 m. (Seoni is a District w^ell 
provided with principal roads and 
D.B, and Inspection Bungalows.) 
By this hne Chhindwara is 157 
m. from Jubbulpore and 16 1 m 
from Gondia. Chhindwara is also 
connected by a 2 ft. 6 m, gauge rail- 
way with Nagpur. There is also a 
branch from Chhindwara to Bar- 
kuhi to tap the Pencil AT a I ley 
coal-mines. 

The G.I.P. Railway Company 
is building a broad - gauge line 
from Nagpur to Itarsi, whicts. will 
pass through the S.W. corner oi 
the Chhindwara District, with 
stations at Pandhurna and Ti- 
gaon ; a branch of this line has 
been constructed from Amla, in 
the Betul District, to Parasia, in 
Chhindwara to the Pench Valley 
coal-mines. 

In the Chhindwara District is 
the old fort of Deogarh (ahout 
iq m. from Umranala), on a spur 
of the S. range of the Satpiaras, 


about 24 m. S.W. of Chhindwara. 
The buildings consist of a wall 
enclosing the summit of an isolated 
hill, about half a mile long and 
1 50-200 yards wide, with deep 
1 vaUeys on each side. V'ithin are 
j some stone tanks and buildings, 

1 the principal being the Badal 
I Tvlahal, or cloud palace, and the 
} Nakkar Khana, or entrance-gate, 
j The tombs of the Gond kings are 
I m the valley below. 

I There are good travellers' bung- 
alows at Chhindwara and at 
many other places on the five 
metalled roads radiating from 
Chhindwara to (i) Nagpur, (2) 

I Seoni, (3) Multai in the Betul 
j District, (4) Narsinghpur, (5) 
j Piparia on the Itarsi- Jubbulpore 
; Railway. The last-mentioned 
j joins the Piparia-Pachmarhi road 
at Matkuli. The District conse- 
quently offers the best facilities in 
the Central Provinces for motor- 
ing. Tamia, situated at a dis- 
tance of 35 m. from Chhindwara 
on the last-mentioned road, at an 
elevation of some 3100 ft. at the 
top of the steep descent into the 
Narbada Valley, is famed for its 
! beautiful situation and magni- 
I ficent view across to the Pach- 
j marhi Hills. 

I To return to the main route, 
j Bhusawal to Calcutta, 

I 615 m, Amgaon station (R.). 

! From 624 m. Salekasa and 631 
i m. Barekasa to 

i 

647 m. from Bombay, Don- 
' gargarh station (R and H.) the 
hne passes through hills and heavy 
I bamboo jungles, and through a 
pass with a tunnel at the summit. 

^ Dongargarh is an engine-changing 
station, with a considerable 
European population connected 
i with the railway. There is a guest- 
house in the town. The ruins 
of a fort are on the N.E. face of a 
detached hill, some 4 m. in circuit 
Inside the fortified space there 



ROUTE 7. RAIPUR — BILASPUR — RATANPUR 


are tanks for water supply, but 
no buildings. 

At Amgaon, 95 m. E. ot Nagpur, 
the Chattisgarii country is entered 
and continues to Raigarh station, 
at 338 m. The people of this 
country still consider themselves 
a separate nationahty, and always 
call themselves Chattisgarhias 
The Rajas of Ratanpur ruled 
originally over their thirty - six 
forts, each the chief place of a 
I hstrict; but about 750 a.d. the 
kingdom was divided into two, 
and a separate Raja ruled in 
Raipur. Kalyan Sahi, who ruled 
between 1536 and 1573, went to 
Delhi and made his submission to 
the great Akbar, and this prudent 
conduct resulted in the Haihaya 
rulers retaining their country 
until the Mahratta invasion in 
1740. 

The tract, which is regarded as 
one of the richest corn-growing 
countries in the world, and is 
known as the “ granary of India,” 
is in the shape of a vast amphi- 
theatre opening to the S. on the 
plains of Raipur, but on every 
other side surrounded by tiers of 
lulls. 

708 m. from Bombay, Raipur 
station. The chief town of a 
District of the same name, and 
the headquarters of the Com- 
missioner of Chattisgarh, The 
population is 35,335. The town 
is surrounded by tanks and groves 
of trees, which form its attraction. 
The Fort was built by Raja 
Bhubaneswar Singh in 1460, and 
in its time was a very strong work 
Its outer wall is nearly i m. in 
circumference. Large quantities 
of stone were used in its construc- 
tion, though no quarnes exist in 
the neighbourhood. The Bur ha 
Tank, on the S,, the same age as 
the Fort, covered nearly i sq. m. ; 
but in later improvements it has 
beer, reduced in extent. The 
public gardens are on its E, shore. 
The Maharajhandh Tank was con- 
structed by a revenue farmer in 


119 

the times of the Mahrattas, and 
close to it is the temple of 
Ramchandra, built in 1775 by 
Bhimbaji Bhonsla. There are 
several other reservoirs in the 
suburbs ; and in the centre of 
the town is the Kankali Tank, 
constructed of stone throughout, 
at the close of the 17th century. 

776 m. Bilaspur junction station 
(R.). This place is a large engine- 
changing centre. 

Branch N.W. through a moun- 
tainous District and the coalfields 
of U maria to 19S m. Katui junction, 
on the E.I. Railway (p. 40). This 
branch passes at Pendva station ^ 
under the Amarkantak plateau 
(3500 ft.), where the Narbada 
has its source There are several 
temples and a ” Kund ” or reser- 
voir enclosing the head spring. 
The plateau is frequented by 
the ” tirth basis ” and other 
pilgrims. 

About 15 m. E. of Bilaspur is 
the precipitous hill oj Dalka, 
2600 ft. high, rising sheer out of 
the plain, and affording a grand 
view- 

15 m. N. of Bilaspur is Ratan- 
pur, the old capital of the formerly 
self-contained kingdom of Chattis- 
garh, or the Thirty -six Forts, in 
which are now included the Dis- 
tricts of Raipur, Drug, and 
Bilaspur, The town lies in a 
hollow surrounded by hills It 
ceased to be the capital in 1818, 
but the crumbling arches of the 
old fort, the broken walls of the 
ancient palace, and the half-filled- 
up moat which surrounded the 
city, recall its former condition. 
The population is under 6000. 
The Brahmans of Ratanpur are 
still the leaders of their class all 
over Chattisgarh. The numerous 
small temples in the vicinity are 
scattered over an area of 15 sq. m., 

1 The scenery between Khongsara and 
Khodii, South of Pendra, is of exceptional 
beauty 



120 


India 


ROUTE 7. BHUSAWAL TO CALCUTTA 


and there are a large number of 
fine mango groves, with numer- 
ous tanks and temples scattered 
amidst their shade- Mixed up 
with temples, great blocks of 
masonry of uniform shape com- 
memorate distinguished satis 
(suttees). The most prominent of 
these is near the old fort, where a 
large building records that there 
in the middle of the 17th century 
twenty ranis of JRaja Lakshmau 
Sahi devoutly fulfilled the duty 
of self-immolation. Kargi Road 
station, on the Katni branch, is a 
few miles from Ratanpur. 

Before reaching 

809 m. Champa station the 
Hasdo nver is crossed. The 
stream cuts the coalfields of Kortaa 
some 20 m. N. of the railway ; 
and in the jungles on its banks 
are still to be found a few wild 
elephants. 

The line continues E. through a 
thinly-inhabited flat country to 

S58 m. Raigarh. 

890 m. Belpahar station, on 
leaving which the Ib river, which 
flows S. into the Mahanadi river, 
is crossed by a considerable bridge. 
The scenery at the crossing is 
very fine. 

898 m. lb station is situated on 
the E. bank of the Ib river. Be- 
fore crossing the Ib river, there is 
a siding for trains to the Rampur 
colliery in village Lamptibahal, 
about 2 m. from Ib station 

903 m. Jharsuguda junction 
station. There is a P.W.D. In- 
spection Bungalow, which could 
be available to travellers if 
not previously occupied by local 
officers. 

Branch for the civil station of 
Samhalpur (D.B. and Circuit 
House, available for travellers), 
distant 31 m. Near here, at 
different times, diamonds of con- 


siderable value have been pro- 
cured. They are said to be found 
in the bed of the Mahanadi up- 
stream from the town, but whether 
the source of supply is the Mahan- 
adi or the Ib river is perhaps not 
clearly known. 

From Jharsuguda the railway 
takes a N.E. course, and continu- 
ing through a well-inhabited plain 
country to 

909 m. Dliutra 

1 gi6 m. Bagdehi station, it enters 
the hills, in which it continues 
until the plains of Bengal are 
reached. 

936 m. Garpos station. Here- 
abouts the forests are very dense, 
and in the rainy season they are 
largely resorted to by wild ele- 
phants. Between this and 

958 m. Kalunga station the 
Brahmani river is crossed. The 
natives here earn a very fair living 
by washing the river - sands for 
gold. The view up-stream is very 
grand when the river is in flood. 

991 m. Manharpur station. 
Here the railway enters the 
Saranda forests, which contain 
some of the finest sal trees (Skorea 
robusta) in India. The hne winds 
round hills, passing close under 
them on both sides. The summit 
of the range is reached through 
a heavy cutting leading into a 
tunnel. During the construction 
of the Bengal - Nagpur Railway 
through these forests and heavy 
jungles very great difficulty was 
experienced in procuring labour, 
as they have a very bad reputation 
for unhealthiness. The inhabi- 
tants of these wilds are nearly all 
Kols, an aboriginal race. A light 
railway runs from Manharpur to 
the iron mines of the Bengal Iron 
j and Steel Company — situated in 
the middle of the Saranda forests 
at Duia. 

1029 m. Cliakradharpur station. 
This is a large railway settlement 



121 


ROUTE 7. CHAIBASA RANCHI 


diid engine - changing station. 
The town is also increasing in size 
and importance, as it is a centre 
ior the timber trade. There is a 
D B. with a khansama near the 
railway station. The main road 
connecting Patna with Cuttack 
runs through Chakra dharpur. 

Starting from Chakra dharpur a 
very pleasant motor trip can be 
made to Ranchi (72 m.), and thence 
to Hazanbagh, Gaya and Patna 
The road to Ranchi is metalled 
cind bridged throughout, and rising 
about 1500 ft. betwmen the 64tli , 
and 40th m. runs through very 
picturesque forest scenery. From 
Chakradharpur also it is possible , 
to motor to Vyas Sarovar on the 
Madras branch of the B.N. rail- 
way. The road passes through 
Chaibasa ( 16 m.), the headquarters 
of the district, and is metalled ' 
and bridged as far as the Baitarni i 
river (52 m.), which forms the 
boundary between the district ol 
Siiighbhum and Keonjhar state. 
The Baitarni river is crossed by ■ 
a fine bridge, and thence there is 
^ good gravelled road passing 
through Keonjhar to Vyas 
Sarovar. 

Chaihasa, the headquarter^ 
station of Singhbhum district, is 
situated about 16 m. to the S.E 1 
A service of motor omnibuses | 
connects it with Chakradharpur. 
Accommodation can be obtained 
at the D.B. at Chaibasa where 
there is a khansama. The coun- 
try round Chaibasa is inhabited 
by the aboriginal race of Hos or [ 
Larka Kois. A great fair is held 
here in January, which is largely 
attended by the people of the 
district. Athletic sports, races, 
and national dances take place, 
^nd provide a good opportunity 
for seeing the aboriginal popula- ; 

tion. I 


1051 m. Sini. From here {a) 
the old line of the Bengal-Nagpur 
nadway runs N.E. to Asansol, on 


the E.I.R., while {b) the new 
direct hne runs E. to Kharakpur, 
1151 m- (p. 442 j, and Howrah 
(1223 m.). 

On (6), the line to Kharakpur, 
are the following stations : — 

1068 m. Kaltmati. Two m. N. 
of Kalimati, at Sakchi, are the 
huge iron and steel Avorks of 
Tata’s Iron and Steel Company, 
one of the largest industries in 
British India. 

10S4 m. Galudih. Two m. S of 
Galiidih station are the Rakha 
mines of the Cape Copper Com- 
pany. Rich deposits of copper 
have been found in the hills visible 
from the railway, and the ore 
extracted is now concentrated 
and smelted near the mines 

On {a) the line to Asansol are 
the following stations — - 

io68m. Chandil station. Before 
this place is reached the hills again 
close in on the line. Dalma hill, 
3407 ft. above sea-level, is seen 
12 m. E. It is from the country 
about here that the labourers 
for the tea-cultivation in Upper 
Assam and Cachar are mainly 
recruited. 

1102 m. Purnlia station. The 
headquarters of the Manbhum 
district, through which the travel- 
ler has been passing for many 
miles. The place had, in 1911, 
20,886 inhabitants, and has the 
usual offices of a ci\il station. 

From here a branch line runs to 

' Eanchi (73 m. W.), also a civil 
station, the headquarters of the 
Bihar-Orissa Government tempo- 
rarily, and of the Chota-Nagpur 
division, 2100 ft. above the sea ; 
population 32,994. There are two 
hotels : (i) Clayton’s, (2) the R.H. 
of the B.N. Railway Station Com- 
mittee. In the district are the 
Huardni waterfall, 24 m distant. 



122 


ROUTE 8. KHANDWA TO AJMER 


India 


and the Ichadag Sanatorium bun- 
galow, 23 m. from the railway 
station. 


Chota-Nagpur ^ is the seat of a 
Missionary Bishop of the Church 
of England. There are a hand- 
some CJntrch, good Schools, and a 
Native Mtssioyi in the town of 
Ranchi ; and there are com- 
munities of Christian Kols, the 
result of extensive S.P.G. missions, 
conducted by a brotherhood from 
Trinity College, Dublin. The 
Roman Catholics, also, have an 
extensive mission at Ranchi (under 
the Archbishop of Calcutta with an 
Apostolic School, a High School, 
and Elementary Schools in about 
twenty villages ; also a convent 
and boarding-school for girls. 


1127 m. Adra station. Here 
the Kliarakpur-Gomoh line of the 
B.N.R. system crosses the main 
line. An important junction 
station of the B.N.R. 


1152 m. Asansol junction sta- 
tion (D.B. and Inspection Bung- 
alow). About 6 m. before Asan- 
sol is reached the river Damodar 
fp- 100) is crossed on a very fine 
bridge. From Asansol to Cal- 
cutta, a distance of 132 m., the 
traveller proceeds by the East 
India Railway (see p. 54), this 
route being 60 m. longer than the 
Kharakpur route. 

^ For this interesting part of India Mr 
Bradley Birt s Chota • S agpur may be 
consulted. 


ROUTE 8. 


KHANDWA to AJMER by 
Mhow, Indore, Nimach, Chitor- 
garh and Nasirahad, with expedi- 
tions by road to Unkarji and 
Mandu, and by rail to Udaipur. 

353 m. Khandwa (p. 37) is the 
starting-point of the Rajputana- 
Alalwa railway (metre gauge), 
which passes through Ratlam to 
Ajmer. Here the broad-gauge 
IS changed for the narrower-gauge 
railway, commencing with the 
Holkar State Railway. At 38 m. 
Mortakka station, the Narbada 
river is crossed by a fine bridge, 
wdth a cart-road under the rails, 
j There is a D.B. near the bridge, 

' about I m. from the station, but 
inconvenient and without supplies; 
all provisions must be brought ; 
tongas arc available. 

This neighbourhood abounds in 
large game of every sort. 

A good cart-road of 6 m. leads 
E. to Unkarji, more properly Om- 
karji, a place well worth visiting. 
The trip will easily occupy a whole 
day, one night being spent at 
Mortakka 

The Great Temple of Omkar is 
situated in the island of Mandhata, 
in the Narbada. It is said that 
the island was originally called 
Baidurya Alani Parvat, but its 
name was changed to Mandhata as 
a boon from Siva to Raja Mand- 
hatri, the seventeenth monarch of 
the Solar Race, who performed a 
great sacrifice here to that deity. 

The area of the isle is about 
five-sixths of a sq. m., and a deep 
ravine cuts it from N. to S. At 
the N. the ground slopes gently, 
but terminates at the S. and E. in 
precipices 500 ft. high. At this 
point the S. bank of the Narbada 
IS equally steep, and between the 
cliffs the river is exceedingly deep 
I and full of crocodiles and large fish, 



ROTATE 8. KHANDWA — BARWAHA 


123 


On both sides of the river, 
which is crossed by a public ferry, 
the rocks are of a greenish hue, 
very boldly stratified. It is said 
that the Temple of Omkar and 
that of Amreswar, on the S. bank 
of the river, arc two of the twelve 
great temples which existed in 
India when Mahmud of Ghazni 
destroyed Somnath in 1024 a b. 
During the wars of the 17th and 
1 8th centuries the S banks were 
deserted and overgrown with 
j angle ; and when the Peshwa 
desired to repair the temple it 
could not be found, so a new one 
was built, with a group of smaller 
ones. Afterw'ards part of it w^as 
ioiind and the late Raja of Mand- 
hata built a temple over it ; but 
Its sanctity and even its name 
have been appropriated by that 
winch the Peshw'a built. 

The Raja of Mandhata, w^ho 
IS hereditary custodian of the 
temples, is a Bhilala, who claims 
to be the direct descendant of the 
Chauhan Bharat Singh, wiio took 
-Mandhata from Nathu Bhil in 
1165 a.d. The old temples have 
suffered from the Muhammadans, 
and every dome has been over- 
turned and every figure mutilated, 
fhe gatew'ays are finelv carved. 
I he oldest temple is that on the 
hivkhala rocks at the E. end, 
w'here devotees used to cast them- 
•selves over the cliffs up till the 
year 1824, when the custom was 
abandoned. The temple consists 
of a courtyard, wuth a veranda 
and colonnades supported by 
massive pillars boldly carved. 
On the hill are the ruins of a very 
fine Temple to Siddesvara Maha- 
deva, which stood on a plinth 10 ft. 
fiigh. Round the phnth w’as a 
ineze of elephants 5 ft. high, 
carved in relief with remarkable 
skill on slabs of yellow^ sandstone ; 
blit all but t-wo of the elephants 
are mutilated. 

In front of the Temple to Gaiiri 
Somnath is an immense bull carved 
m a fine green stone, and 100 yds. 
farther is a pillar 20 ft. long. On 


the island itself all the temples are 
Saivite, but on the N. bank of the 
Narbada are some old temples 
to Vishnu and a group of Jam 
temples. Where the nver bifur- 
cates are some ruined gateways, 
and a large building on which are 
twenty - four figures of Vishnu 
well carved in green stone. Among 
them is a large figure of the boar 
Avatar. On an image of Siva 
in the same building is the date 
1346 A. D. Farther dowm the bank, 
in the Havana ravine, is a pros- 
trate figure, 18 1 It long, with ten 
arms holding clubs and skulls. 
On its chest is a scorpion, and at 
its right side a rat, and one foot 
rests on a prostrate human 
figure. 

The bed of the ravine is covered 
with huge basalt blocks shghtly 
carved. The Jam Temples stand 
on an eminence a little back from 
the river. The largest is on a 
phnth of basalt 5 ft. high. The 
E. wmll is still complete. On each 
side of the doorway is a figure 
with Saivite and Jam emblems 
curiously intermixed. The hills 
near these temples, as well as the 
island, are covered with remains 
of habitations. 

A great fair is held at the end 
of October, attended by 15,000 
persons. According to a prophecy 
— the fulfilment of wfech the 
Brahmans at Mandhata anxiously 
expect — the sanctity of the Ganges 
will expire in due course and be 
transferred to ftie Narbada. 

41 m. from Khandw'a (after 
crossing the Narbada) is Bar- 
waha station (D.B.) the seat of a 
palace of His Highness the Ma- 
haraja Holkar (no admission). A 
metalled road runs from here (44 
m.) to Maheshwar (D.B.) the old 
capital of the Holkar family, in 
Nimar, on the banks of the Nar- 
bada, where is the magnificent 
Chhatri of Ahalya Bai (died 1795) 
widow' of the son of iMalhar Rao 
Holkar. Sir Jolin Malcolm says 
of this lady : “ The character of 



124 


ROUTE- 8. KHANDWA TO AJMER 


India 


her administration was for more 
than thirty years the basis of the 
prosperity which attended the 
dynasty to which she belonged. 
She sat every day for a consider- 
able period in open darbar trans- 
acting business. Her first prin- 
ciple of , government appears to 
have been moderate assessment 
and an almost sacred respect for 
the native rights of village officers 
and proprietors of land. She 
heard every complaint in person, 
and although she continually re- 
ferred causes to courts of equity 
and arbitration and to her Minis- 
ters for settlement, she was always 
accessible ; and so strong was her 
sense of duty on all points con- 
nected with the distribution of 
justice, that she is represented as 
not only patient but unwearied 
in the investigation of the most 
insignificant causes w hen appeals 
were made to her decision. It 
appears, above all, extraordinary 
how she had mental and bodily 
powers to go through the labours 
she imposed upon herself, and 
which, from the age of thirty to 
that of sixty, when she died, were 
unremitted. The hours gained 
from the afiairs of the State w^ere 
all given to acts of devotion and 
charity, and a deep sense of reli- 
gion appears to have strengthened 
her mind in the performance of her 
worldly duties. Her charitable 
foundations extend all over India, 
from the Hima^yas to Cape 
Comorin, and from Somnath to 
the Temple of Jagannath in the 
East.” Ahalya Bai is certainly 
the most distinguished female 
character in Indian history. It is 
recorded of her that she had the 
courage to watch her daughter 
become sail, after vainly seeking 
to dissuade her from this act. 


58 m. from Khandwa is Choral 
station. From this point the 
ascent of the Ghat of the Vindhya 
Range commences and continues 


almost into Mhow. The scenery 
is very fine. On approaching 

71 m. Patalpani station, the 
waterfall of that nam_e is passed. 

74 m. Mhow station (R-), D.B. 
(13 m. from Indore), m the terri- 
tory of the Maharaja Holkar, an 
important military Cantonment of 
British ’and Indian troops, head- 
quarters of the Fifth Army Division, 
1900 ft. above sea-level ; popula- 
tion, 29,820. Troops are sta- 
tioned here as provided in the 
Treaty of Mandasor of 1818. 
Mhow has no special interest for a 
traveller. The buildings and in- 
stitutions are those common to all 
places wT-ere troops are stationed 

From Mhow an expedition of 
55 m. may be made S.W. to the 
ruined city of Mandu, the ancient 
capital of the kingdom of Malwra. 
It is in the territory of the Raja 
of Dhar, and the best route is 
by motor to the towm of Dhar 
(33 m.), D.B. A motor can pass 
right into the old fort and, except 
in the rains, as far as the palace of 
Baz Bahadur. If it is proposed to 
stay at ^fandu, intimation should 
be given to the Diwan of Dhar 
State tw'O days before, when the 
D.B in Mandu will be made avail- 
able. Motors can be hired in 
IMhow for the trip. A guide-book 
to the buildings can be purchased 
from the tahsil office in Mandu. 
It is quite possible, by motor, to 
see all the main buildings and 
return to Mhow the same day. 
Dhar is an old town of some 
historical and archaeological in- 
terest, containing several fine half- 
ruined mosques. On arriving at 
Mandu it is most convenient to 
drive right through the ruins to 
the furthest point close by the 
pavilion of Rupmati, then work 
back to the Barnes Kothi, an 
ancient building turned into a 
convenient rest-house (food and 
bedding must be brought) where 
if necessary the night can be com- 



ROUTE 8. MANDU 


fortably spent. It is situated 
n( ur the centre of the rums. Out- 
ride the N. wall of the Lat Masjid, 

1 405 A.D., lies a lat, or pillar of 
wrought iron, thought to have 
been originally a pillar of victory. 
Jahangir in his diary stated 
that Bahadur Shah of Gujarat 
ordered it to be removed, but in 
tins process it fell and broke in 
two : the smaller part, 13 ft. long, 
lias disappeared ; the larger part, 
22 ft. long, remains in situ, partly 
huned in the ground. Two m. from 
Gujri (Inspection Bungalow) the 
Agra-Bombay road is left by a 
road running to Dhar (30 m.) and 
10 Mandu (28 m.) At Manpur, 

12 m. from Gujri, is the head- | 
quarters of the Political Agent in | 
the Southern States of Central 1 
India. I 


Mandu ^ (iy44 originally 

37 m. in circumference, now occu- 
picb 8 sq. m. of ground, extending 
along the crest of the Vindhyas ; 
and is separated from the table- 
land, with which it is on a level, by 
a deep valley, above the Southern 
side of which the battlemented 
wails and gates of the old city rise 
very finely. Paths have been cut 
through the jungle to all the ruins , 
of interest, the chief being the | 
Jami Alasjid (1454 a.u.), Less in- j 
]ured than any of the others, and 
''Uid to be the finest and largest 
i^pecimen of Afghan architecture 
extant in India,- The courtyard 

90 yards sq. and is surrounded by 
a double colonnade. The mosque ; 
proper consists of five aisles of ' 
i>cventeen bays. To the W. of the | 
mosque a second enclosure con- j 
tains the fine white marble tomb | 
of Hoshang Shah Ghori. Facing ’ 
the Eastern entrance to the mosque ! 
are the remains of the mausoleum j 

^ A most interesting account of the ruins ' 
Of Mandu was published by the late Sir 1 
-'^'ues Campbell in the Gujarat Volume of j 
\ Gauette : see also Dhar and 

dlandu^ by Major C. E. Luanl. 

See Fergusson, Indian Architecture^ 

2. 246. 


1^5 

of 3fohamed I or II., and <it its 
X.W. angle is the lower part of a 
circular tower of victory, formerly 
7 storeys high. Between it and 
the great arched gateway in the 
Xorthern wall of the city are a 
number of ruined palaces and 
courts, includmg the Jahaz Mahal, or 
Ship Palace, which takes its name 
from the lakes between which it 
stands. It consists mainly of three 
great halls, with a beautiful little 
bath at the N. end : there is a fine 
view over the city from its roof. 
Close by is the Hindola Mahal, a 
hall of fine massive proportions. 
Further W. are the Champa Baori, 
a well with subterranean retreats 
for hot weather, and the remains of 
some baths. Two miles to the 
S.E. IS the Palace of Baz Bahadur, 
Bayazid, the last long of Malwa. 
and on rising ground a short dis- 
tance further stands the pavilion, 
of Rupmati, his wafe. From 
here there is a splendid view 
Southwards across the Xarbada 
valley, 1000 ft. below. S.W., near 
the inner citadel of Songarh in that 
quarter, is a quaint ravine with 
temples and a small tank, specially 
mentioned in the memoirs of the 
T ' ‘ These once 

are still, in 
their ruined state, very sinking 
on account of their massive pro- 
portions. The fortifications were 
constructed by Floshaag Shah 
Ghori, who reigned in the begin- 
ning of the 15th century, and in 
ivhose time the city attained its 
greatest splendour. In 1526 Man- 
dugarh w^as taken by Bahadur 
Shah, ruler of Gujarat, and an- 
nexed to his dominions, of which it 
remained part until their conquest 
by Akbar in 1570. Of late years 
measures have been taken for the 
presexwation of the most interest- 
ing ruins. Sir Thomas Roe, the 
Ambassador of James I. of Eng- 
land, entered INfandu in the train 
of Jahangir, part of the triumphal 
procession of the Great Mughal 
being 500 elephants. He com- 
plains in his Memoirs of the lions 



126 


ROUTE S. KHANDWA TO AJMER 


India 


which then infested the country, 
and killed one of his baggage 
ponies. The several Rulers of 
Mandu and Chitor were at feud 
with each other for many years. 
From June till November the loca- 
lity IS very unhealthy. 

87 m. Indore station (D . B . ) . 
The capital of the State and resid- 
ence of H.H. Maharaja Tukaji 
Rao Holkar III., Bahadur, born 
1890 ; also of the Agent to the 
Governor - General for Central 
India. 

Indore (population 77,928) 
stands on the banks of the rivers 
Saras vat i and Khan, on a wide 
plain 1738 ft. above sea-level. The 
site is healthy, and of recent years 
roads have been metalled, drains 
built, the water supply reorganised 
and the streets hghted. 

The Old Palace, with its lofty 
many-storeyed gatew^ay, faces the 
chief square. On the N. of it, and 
separated from it by a street are the 
New Palace and garden. On the 
S. side of the square is the Ana 
Chuttra (alms-house), where food 
is daily distributed to the poor. 

In the streets are some good 
timber houses, with deep recessed 
verandas, and carved corbels and 
pillars. To the W, of the Old 
Palace is the Sharafa Street of the 
Marwari money-lenders, and close 
by are the Haldi Bazar and the 
Aditvar or Sunday Street, where a 
market is held on Sundays. 

On the W. bank of the Khan, 
near the bridge, is a statue, of no 
artistic merit, of Sir Robert Hamil- 
ton ; and on the riverside, and 
elsewhere in the city, are numerous 
Chattris erected to the memory of 
members of the Holkar family. 
The most important of these are on 
the Western outskirts of the town. 

In the Chattri Bagh, an oblong 
enclosure surrounded by a battle- 
mented wall, are the cenotaphs of 
Malhar Rao Holkar I. (died 1765) 
the founder of the dynasty, richly 
ornamented with sculpture in low 
relief ; a smaller one of the cele- j 


brated Ahalya Bai (see pp. 123-4) 
died 1 795 , and one to her son Mal- 
har Rao Holkar II. (died 1766): this 
is a twelve-sided building on a rect- 
angular plinth also delicately orna- 
mented with low relief sculpture. 
A similar walled enclosure a few 
hundred yards further down the 
Sarasvati contains the fine Chattri 
of Hari Rao Holkar IV. 

Of modern buildings in the town 
the prmcipal are the King Edward 
Hall, opened 17th November i 905 > 
by King George V. (then Prince 
of Wales), whose visit is com- 
memorated by the new Courts of 
Justice; the M.R. Tukaji Rao 
Hospital ; and the City High School. 
There are also some flourishing 
cotton- mills. 

S. W. of the town is the Lai Bagh, 
H.H.’s favourite palace, standing 
on the banks of the Sarasvati, 
amongst well- wooded gardens and 
grounds m which there are a house 
where lions are kept and an 
aviary, i m. from this palace ^ 
the Manik Bagh Kothi, whe' H.H. 
entertains visitors ; an m. 
further (S. of the town) is '^kar 
College for preparing students for 
the University. 

^ Adjoining the town, on the K., 
is the British Residency, an area 
assigned by treaty, and under 
British jurisdiction, containing the 
houses of the Agent to the Gover- 
nor-General, the Resident, the 
Residency Surgeon and other 
mei oers of the staff ; the quarters 
of the British Guard and Indian 
Escort of the Agent ; the Post 
Office : the Anglican and R.C. 
Churches ; the Presbyterian Church 
of Canada ; the King Edward Hos- 
pital, with 160 students (which 
occupies the buildings formerly 
devoted to DalyUollege (see below) ; 
and a beautiful Park and Garden 
through which flows the river 
Khan. Here also is Daly College 
for the education of Indian princes 
and nobles. It is a fine marble 
building with a large hall and con- 
tains a series of portraits of Indian 
j princes by Herbert Ohvier. There 



Rd^E 8. UJJAIN 


are a branch of the Bank of Bom- 
bay and an Agency of Messrs Ralli 
Bros. 

About 3 m. to the S. W. of Indorb 

the large new palace of SJiirptir, 
begun by the late ^laharaja and 
being completed by his son. In 
the same neighbourhood a large 
Black-buck preserve is maintained, 
^nd I m. beyond is Sukhnewas, a 
small pleasure palace surrounded 
by trees on the banks of a small 
lake. 

In 1857 some of the State troops 
rose and attacked the Residency 
House, and also the Cantonment ol 
Mhow on 1st July. The Resident, 
Colonel Durand, who had arrived 
st Indore only on 14th May, and 
the Europeans with him, were com- 
pelled, after a fight, to retire to 
Sehore and Hoshangabad, The 
Maharaja gave all the assistance 
he could and, in spite of the de- 
mands of his troops, refused to 
surrender a number of Cliristians 
to whom he had given sanctuary in 
the pa- Captain Hungerford, 
'vith th 4^ Maharaja’s help, drove 
the mutineers off from Mhow and 
remained there until a Bombay 
force reached that place. Sehore 
^ 56 m. from Dewas on the Agra- 
Bombay road, and is now the head- 
quarters of the Political Agent in 
Bhopal : supplies obtainable. 

1 12 m. from Khandwa is^ 
Fatehabad junction station 
Erom here a short branch lihd'of 
26 m. runs to 

Ujjain (R ) (D.B.) (23 m. from 
Hewas, on the Agra-Bombay road , 
‘ind 42 m. from Agar, which is garn- 
^oncd by a regiment of the Central 
India Horse). This famous city I 
(the Greek O^rjVT}) is situated on 
the right bank of the river Sipra. 
^vhich falls into the Chambal after 
^ total course of 120 m. Ujjain is 
JR the dominions of the Maharaja 
bcindia of Gwalior, in Malwa, of 
'\iuch it was once the capital. It 
Mands in N. lat. 23"" ii' 10"', and is 


127 

the spot wiiich marked the tirst 
meridian of Hindu geographers It 
is said to have been the seat of the 
vice-ro3^alty of Asoka during the 
reign of his father at Pataliputra, 
now Patna, about 263 b.c. It is, 
however, best known as the capital 
of the legendary Vikramaditya 
(Valour’s sun), of Jain story, long 
believed to be the founder of the 
Sam vat era. He was fabled to 
have driven out the Scythians, and 
to have reigned over almost all 
N. India, and at his court were 
said to have flourished the Nine 
Gems of Hindu literature — viz., 
Dhanvantan, Kshapanaka, Amar- 
asinha, Shanka, Vetalabhatta, 
Ghata-karpara, Kalidasa (of Euro- 
pean celebrity), Varanruchi, and 
Varaha-mihira. Ujjain, as well as 
the whole province of Malwa, was 
conquered by Ala-ud-din Khilji, 
who reigned at Delhi 1295-1317 
A.D. In 1387 A.D. the Muham- 
madan Viceroy, Dilawar Khan 
Ghori, declared himself indepen- 
dent, and ruled from 1387 to 1405 ; 
he made Mandu his capital. In 
1531 Malwa was conquered by 
Bahadur Shah, King of Gujarat, 
and in 1571 by Akbar. In 1658 
the decisive battle between Aur- 
angzeb and Murad and their elder 
brother Dara was fought near 
this city. In 1792 J as want Rao 
Holkar took Ujjain, and burned 
part ot it. It then fell into the 
hands of Scindia, whose capital it 
was till 1810, when Daulat Rao 
Scindia removed to Gwalior. 

In recent times, perhaps since 
the burning of 1792, Ujjain has 
somewhat changed its position. 
Scattered over the hills about i m. 
to the N. outside the present walls 
are a number of fine temples and 
other remnants of the ancient city. 
The modern city, which is oblong in 
shape and 6 m. in circumference, 
is surrounded by a stone wall with 
round towers, and on all sides by 
a belt of groves and gardens. The 
principal bazar is a spacious 
street, flanked by houses of two 
storeys, and having also four 



128 


ROUTE 8. KHANDWA TO AJMER 


India 


mosques, many Hindu temples, 
and a palace of Maharaja Sindhia. 
Near the palace is an ancient 
gateway, said to have been part 
^of Vikramaditya's fort. To the 
S.W. of this are the picturesque 
ghats and temples on the river ; 
and outside the city to the S.E. 
I are the remains of the Observatory, 
X erected by Maharaja Jai Singh, of 
Jaipur {p. 1 92). 5 m. to the N. 

of the town is a picturesque Water 
Palace resembling some of those 
of Mandu, 


1 61 m. Ratlam junction station 
(K. good) (D.B.) of the B.B and 
C.I. Railway, mam Une from Bom- 
bay iyid Baroda, Xagda, Kotah, 
Bharatpur and Muttra) to Delhi 
(mail route), and of the Rajputana- 
Malwa Railway (narrow gauge) 
section from Ajmer to Indore, 
Mhow and Khandwa junction on 
the G.I.P, Railway. Alimadabad, 
153 m., can be reached by the 
branch hne, vid Godhra and Anand, 
and Ujjain and Bhopal by the 
branch line from Nagda. Ratlam 
is also the capital of an Indian 
State and the residence of the 
Chief. It was founded by Ratan 
Singh, great-grandson of Udai 
Singh, Maharaja of Jodhpur. Ra- 
tan Singh was at the battle of 
Fatehabad, near Ujjain, in which 
Jaswant Rao Rathor, with 30,000 
Rajputs, fought Aurangzeb and 
Murad, with the whole Mughal 
army. Tod {Rajasthan, 2, 40), 
says : “Of all the deeds of heroism 
performed that day, those of Rat- 
na of Ratlam by universal consent 
are pre-eminent.” The palace in 
which the Prince resides is within 
the walls, and is a fine new build- 
ing, with a handsome reception- 
room. There is a Chauk or square 
built by Miinshi Shahamat 'Ali. 
Beyond this is the Chandni Chauk 
of the bankers, which leads to the 
Tripulia Gate, and the Amrit Sagar 
tank. An excellent metalled road 
connects Ratlam with Mhow, 78 
m. Dhar, 90 m. ; Mandu, 112 m. ; 


and Indore 72 m. Inspection Bung- 
alows (without khansamas or sup- 
plies), with glass, crockery, knives, 
ahd forks, are situated at intervals 
of about 10 m. : one of these, at 
Sadalpur, is interesting as having 
been constructed from part of an 
old “ water-palace.” D.B.'s (with 
khansamas) are at Dhar, Mhow, 
and Indore. 

iSi m. Jaora, the capital of the 
^luhammadan State, so named, 
shows a palace and some fortifica- 
tions. 

213 m. Mandasor station. A 
fortified town remarkable as being 
the place where, m 181S, at the end 
of the Pindari War, a treaty was 
made between the British Govern- 
ment and Holkar, Severe fighting 
occurred here in 1857 between the 
rebels and a brigade of British 
troops moving from Mhow to 
relieve Nimach. 

244 m. Nimach station ^ (R.), 
(D.B.), is a Cantonment of British 
troops. Nimach was about the 
most southerly place to which the 
mutiny extended. In 1857 the 
place was garrisoned by a brigade 
of native troops of all arms of the 
Bengal army. This force muti- 
nied and marched to Delhi, the 
European officers taking refuge in 
the Fort, where they were besieged 
by a rebel force from Mandasor, 
and defended themselves gallantly 
until relieved by a brigade from 
Mhow. Some forty-two ladies and 
non-combatants found refuge at 
Udaipur. 

278 m. from Khandwa is Chitor- 
garh^ station.^ (Branch line to 
Udaipur, 69 m ) The famous 
Fort^ crowning the rocky ridge, 
on the E. of the line, is about 3 m. 
distant (2 m. to the foot ; i m. 
ascent), and the road is very bad. 
Permission to visit the Fort must 

^ For a striking account of this wonderful 
Fort, see The Kaulakka and Letters 0/ 
Marque, both by Rudyard Kipling. 



ROUTE 8. CHITORGARH FORT 


be obtained by letter beiorehaml 
irom the local ^lagistrate (Hakim) 
He will provide an elephant for 
making the ascent of the rock or, 
if preferred, a rough tonga can 
be obtained. There is a small 
i> B. about h m from the railway 
>tation ; by giving notice, food 
t an be supplied. The Gambheri 
river below the famous fort is 
crossed by a massive old bridge 
oi grey limestone, with ten arches, 
all of pointed shape, except the 
sixth from the W. bank, which is 
semicircular. The gateways and 
towers which existed at either end 
ol the bridge have now dis- 
appeared. The builder is popu- 
larly said to have been Ajai Singh, | 
son of Rana Lakshman, m whose 
reign Aia-ud-din Khilji besieged 
Chitor (1303 A.D.) on account of 
the beautiful Padmani, wife of the ; 
hana's uncle, Bhim Singh. The ' 
hrst siege failed, though, according | 
to tradition, Bhim Singh was j 
treacherously captured for a time, j 
^^hen the second was about to 
prove successtiil in spite of the [ 
sacrifice of eleven roval Princes, 
each made Rana for one day, *.11 
the Rajput women proceeded to an 
underground cave, Padmani enter- 
ing last, and were there immolated 
by fire (johar), and Bhim Singh and 
his clansmen fell before the swords 
of the Muhammadans. 

When Chitor was the capital of 
Mewar the city was situated in 
the Fort. The modern town of 
Chitor, called the Talaiti or Lower 
Town, is little more than a walled 
village, with narrow, crooked 
streets, in front of the principal 
- entrance to the Fortress. 

The abrupt rocky hill, crowned ' 
by this magnificent Fort, rises 
500 ft. above the surrounding i 
country, and is a very conspicuous I 
c^bject, though its great length of ' 
3j m. makes it look lower than , 
It really is. The whole of the 1 
summit is covered with ruins of ! 
palaces and temples, and the i 
dopes with thick jungle. An 
ascent i m. long, with two zigzags, ' 


' leads to the summit, and is de- 
fended at intervals bv seven 
magnificent gateways, large 
enough to contain guard - rooms 
and even fine halls They are the 
Padal Pol, the newly rebuilt 
Bhairon or Tuta (Broken) Pol. the 
Hanuman Pol, the Ganesh Pol, 
the Jorla Pol, the Lakshman Pol, 
and the Main Gate, or Ram Pol. 

Immediately outside the Padal 
Pol, on the left, is an erect stone 
marking the spot where Bagh 
Singh, the chief of Deolia Partab- 
garh, was killed during the siege 
of Chitor by Bahadur Shah, of 
Gujarat, in 1535 

Between the “ Broken and the 
Hanuman gates there are on the 
right two chhatris marking the 
spots where the renowned Jairnal 
of Bednor and his clansman, Patta 
of Kailwa, w^ere killed in Akbar’s 
siege, in 1568. Jairnal, though 
only sixteen years of age, suc- 
ceeded to the command of the 
place, which the Maharana Udai 
Singh had quitted, on the fail ol 
the Salombra ^ chief ; and so far 
was the heroism of the defenders 
t carried that his bride fought 
! be.side him vith a lance. He was 
I shot by the Emperor Akbar 
I himself, and 8000 Rajputs fell 
j before the place was carried. The 
I thirty-nine memorial stones here 
I are much venerated, as if marking 
' the shriiie of some minor deity 
j After the final capture in 1568 
Chitor was lost to the Rajput chief, 
who thereupon transferred his 
1 capital to Udaipur. 

Facing the great gate is a pil- 
lared hall, used as a guard-house, 
and apparently of ancient con- 
struction. From the top of this 
hall, on which there are two four- 
pillared chhatris, a fine view of 
the plain is obtained. 

The Ram Pol is a large and 

1 The Sa’ombra C'hief had the hereditary 
right CO lead the van in the battle, and to 
command the Suraj Pol gate of the fortress 
when nesieged. On all old grants the sign of 
the Salombra lance precedes the Udaipur 
monogram. 



ROUTE 8. KHANDWA TO AJMER 


India 


130 

handsome gateway, crowned by a 
Hindu horizontal arch, in which 
the upper courses of either side, 
projecting inwards, overlap each 
other till they meet, or nearly so, 
and are then connected by an 
overlying slab. This is the con- 
struction of all the gateways on 
the ascent, except the Jorla, 
though in one, the Lakshman, 
the lower angles of the projecting 
courses are sloped off, giving the 
whole the outline of a regular 
pointed arch. Inside the gate, 
on each side, is a fine hall, sup- 
ported on square - shaped and 
slightly -tapering antique pillars. 

The principal objects of interest 
among the ruins of the old city are 
the two Jain Towers of Fame and 
Victory, known as the two Kir- 
thams. The Tower of Fame, 
which is much the older, stands 
up grandly near the E. rampart, 
and is reached by the broad road 
turning to the left inside the Ram 
Pol, and passing the Kukreswar 
Kund and Palace of Ratna Singh, 
or by a path proceeding directly 
to the E. Mr Fergusson ^ thus 
describes it : “ One of the most 
interesting Jaina monuments of 
the age (the first or great age 
of Jaina architecture, which ex- 
tended down to about the year 
1300, or perhaps a little after that) 
is the Tower formerly known as 
Sri Allata’s (who ruled 953-972). 
It is a singularly elegant specimen 
of its class, about 75 ft. in 
height, and adorned with sculp- 
tures and mouldings from the base 
to the summit. An inscription 
once existed lying near its base, 
which is said to have given its 
date as 895 a.d., though the 
slab has now been lost. This, 
however, is much too early a date 
for the style of the structure. 

. . . The tower most probably 
belongs to the 12 th century, 
and, it is said, was dedicated to 
Adinath, the first of the Jain 
Tirthankars. and nude figures of 

I Indian Af chit^ciure. 2. ^7 


them are repeated some hundreds 
of tim.es on the face of the to^vcr. 
distinguishing it as a Digambara 
monument. The temple in the 
foreground, S. side, is of a more 
modern date, being put together, 
partly, of fragments of older build- 
ings, which have disappeared." 

The tower consists of seven 
storeys, with an internal narrow 
and cramped staircase ; the roof 
of the open top storey% which rests 
on pillars, was much damaged by 
lightning, but has been well 
restored. Fragments of an in- 
scribed stone are on the ground 
under a tree just N. of the tower. 

S. of the Tower of Fame the 
very ancient temple of Nilkantha 
Mahadeo is passed on the right, 
and the Suraj Pol, or Sungate, and 
its tanks on the left. A mile 
farther on is the Raj Tila or State 
hill, the loftiest point on the 
tableland ; the broad road passes 
round this and returns N. by the 
JMori Tank, but walkers will prob- 
ably cross from the E. gate to 
the palace of Rani Padmani- a 
large and beautiful building over- 
locfcng a tank. From this or 
from the palace of her husband, 
Bhim Singh, Akbar carried ofi 
the famous gates now in the 
fort at Agra (p. 237). From near 
this point the road leads past 
the picturesque ruined palace of 
Jaimal to the Stambha, or Tower. 
Fergusson {Indian Architecture, 2, 
59) calls it a Kirtti or Jay a 
Stamhha, or Pillar of Victory ; 
but epigraphic records speak of 
it simply as a kirttistambha, or 
Tower of Fame (and not of 
Victory). Fergusson says : " But 
a revival of Jaina architecture 
took place in the 15th centurv, 
especially under the reign of 
Kumbha, one of the most powerful 
of the kings of the Mewar dynasty, 
whose private capital was Chitor. 
His reign extended from 1428 to 
1468, and it is to him that we 
owe the other of the two towers 
that still adorn the brow of Chitor. 

This one was erected to 



ROUTE 8. UDAIPUR 


commemorate his v'ictorv over 
Afahmud Khalji, of Malwa, in the 
\ear 1440. It is therefore in 
Indian phraseology a Kirtti or 
jay a Siamhha, or Pillar of Vic- 
tory, like that of Trajan at 
ivome, but in infinitely better 
taste as an architectural object 
nian the Roman example, though 
in sculpture it ma}^ be inferior 
It stands on a basement 
47 ft. square and 10 ft high, being 
nine storeys in - height, each of 
uhich is distinctly marked on the 
extenor. A stair in the interior 
communicates with each, and leads 
to the two upper storeys, which are 
open, and more ornamental than 
those below. It is 30 ft wide at 
the base, and 122 it. in height, 
the whole being covered \nth 
•irchitectural ornaments and sculp- 
tures of Hindu divinities to such 
an extent as to leave no plain 
parts, while at the same time this 
mass of decoration is kept so 
subdued that it in no way inter 
teres either with the outhne or 
the general effect of the pillar ’ ’ 
The old dome was injured by 
hghtmng, and a new one was 
substituted by Sarup Singh, 1842- | 
bo The stair is much wider and 
t^asier than that in the Jam tower 
'the small Kirthamj, and in the 
inside are carvings of Hindu 
deities with the names below. In 
the top storey are two of the origi- 
nal four slabs with long inscnp- 
tions The tower took seven to 
ten years to build— from 1458 to 
146S On the road at the corner 
the lower platform is a square 
pillar recording a sati in 1468 a.d. 

S.W. of the Tower of Fame is the 
IVItihasati, a small wooded terrace, 
the prettiest spot on the hill, 
which was the place of cremation 
the Ranas before Udaipur was 
iounded. Below, on a low terrace, 
'ire the Gaumukh springs and 
reservoir. The springs issue from 
the cliff at places carved with a 
cow’s mouth -hence the name. 

To the S.W. is a large carved stone 
temple, built by Rana Mukalji. 


131 

j On tlie back of the wall is a huge 
I ( ir\’ed head. 

; To the N of the Tower of Fame 
j rises the Temple of Vriji, built b}^ 
j Rana Kumbha about 1450 — a mas- 
I sive building with a Sikhara (or 
j tower) of unusually large propor- 
tions (see Fergusson. Indian 
\ Architecture, 2, 151). Hard by is 
j a similar temple, built by his wife, 

I the famous Mira Bai, of which the 
chief peculiarity is that the pro- 
cession path round the cell is an 
open colonnade with four small 
pavilions at the corners. Between 
j the Tower and the Ram Pol are 
I the Nau Katha JMagazme and Nau 
I Lakha Bhandar, or Treasury, and 
on the wall connecting these 
a small pavilion in which the 
Ranas of Chi tor were former! v 
enthroned From here the road 
traverses the old INIoti Bazar to 
the Western Gate, and completes 
the circuit of the Fort 

A branch hne, 69 m., runs from 
Chitor to Udaipur (p. 12S). 

Dabok, where Colonel Tod, the 
first Resident and author of the 
Annals of Rajasthan . lived, lies in 
nuns a few miles S. of Debari, 

S m. i£. ut the capital. The rail- 
way stop:3 a 0011 1 3 m. F. of the city 
of Udaipur. There is a good road 
from the station to the Udaipur 
Hotel, which lies just outside the 
K.E. corner of the city. Two full 
days, or more, can be well spent 
here. 

About 2 m. before reaching the 
capital, the Arh river is crossed, 
with the old ruined town of that 
name on its banks. This stream 
collects the whole drainage of the 
Girwa, the natural outlet from 
which was dammed up with an 
immense masonry embankment by 
Maharana Udai Smgh and thus 
lorm.-^ tile ■ duj Sagdr Lake (2J m 
by 1} m ), the 'surplus waters from 
which, escaping, fonn the Birach 
river, which flows past Chitorgarh. 

Udaipur (2034 ft. above sea- 
level) is the marvellously pictur- 



132 


India 


ROUTE 8. KHANDWA TO AJMER 


esque capitai -‘f the State of 
Mewar, founded in the Christian 
era. The ruling family, now 
known as the Sesodia, and for- 
merly as the Gehlot, is descended 
from the Suryabansi, or Sun-stock, 
royal dynasty of Oudh, and is the 
premier house of India in point 
of blue blood. The present 
representative is H.H. Maharaja- 
( Ihitaja Maharana Sir Fateh Singh 
Bahadur, g.c.s.i., g.c.i.e., g.c v o. 
The city of Udaipur was founded 
after 1568 by Maharana Udai 
Singh (who had been saved from 
being murdered as a baby by the 
devotion of his nurse, who substi- 
tuted her own child), on the 
capture of Chitorgarh, w-hich he 
left to its fate. The States of 
Udaipur, Jodhpur (Rathor), Jai- 
pur (Kachhwaha Chauhan), and 
Bundi (Kara Chauhan) are the 
four original great States of Rajpu- 
tana. The rest are either derived 
from them or had their origin 
long subsequent to them. 

lilt' Citv (populatirm abcuit 
3'>,oooj suiroundu'l by a bas- 
tioned wall, which, towards the 
S., encloses several large gardens 
The W. side is further protected 
by the beautiful Pic ho la lake, and 
the N. and E. sides by a moat 
supplied from the lake, while on 
the S. the fortified hill of Ekling- 
garh rises steep and rugged. The 
principal gateways are the Hathi 
Pol or “ Elephant Gate,’' to the 
N. ; the Kishan Gate, to the S. ; 
the Suraj Pol, or “ Gate of the 
Sun,"' on the E. ; the Delhi Gate, 
on the N.E., and not far from the 
Hotel ; and the Chand Pol, or 
“ Moon Gate," on the W., opening 
on to the bridge across the N. end 
of the lake. 

W, of the Hotel are the Resi- 
dency and a mission house; E. is 
the Victoria Hall and Museum, 
with a statue of the Queen Em- 
press ; and i J m. N.E., at Arh, is 
a fine group of royal cenotaphs. 
To the W. of the city is the Sujjan- 
garh hill, 1100 ft. above the lake, 
with beautiful view^s of the lake 


I. lU It. The Sujjangarh Tala^c 
is a striking feature on the 
hiU. 

The main street of the city leads 
from the Hathi Pol (Elephant 
Gate) to the Maharana 's palace, 
passing a clock tower and the 
Walter Hospital lor Women, 
named after Colonel Walter, lor 
many years Resident at Udaipur. 
The great Jagannath temple (built 
c. 1640), is approached by a fine 
flight of steps, wuth an elephant 
on each side at the head. The 
temple, though late in date, is a 
good example of the Indo- Aryan 
style, figured in book vi. chap. iv. 
of vol. 2 of Fergusson's Indian 
Architecture The tower is orna- 
mented by bold figured friezes and 
other architectural decoration. 
In front of the temple is a shrine 
with a brazen image of a Garuda. 
The Royal Palace (visible on appli- 
cation to the Private Secretary to 
the Maharana — Avithout his permit 
only a few parts can be seen) is an 
" imposing pile of granite and 
marble, of quadrangular shape, ris- 
ing at least 100 ft. from the ground, 
and flanked with octagonal towers, 
crowned with cupolas. Although 
built at various periods, unifor- 
mity of design has been well pre- 
served ; nor i.s there in the E. a 
more striking structure. It stands 
upon the very crest of a ridge, 
running parallel to, but consider- 
ably elevated above, the margin 
of the lake. The terrace, Avhich is 
at the E. and chief front of the 
palace, extends throughout its 
length, and is supported by a triple 
roAv of arches, from the declivity 
of the ridge. The height of this 
arcaded wall is full 50 ft., and 
although all is hollow beneath, yet 
so admirably is it constructed that 
an entire range of stables is built 
on the extreme verge of the 
terrace, on which all the forces 
of the Maharana — elephants, 
cavalry, and infantry— are often 
assembled. From this terrace the 
city and the valley lie before the 
spectator, Avhose vision is bounded 



ROUTE S 


UDAIPUR 


only by the distant hills ; while 
from the summit ol the palace 
nothing obstructs the view over 
lake and mountain.” ^ 

The entrance to the palace is 
through the Bari Pol (1600 a.d.), 
or Great Gate, containing the 
Koyal drums, and by the inner 
Inpuha (1725 A.D.) ; between the 
two gates are eight carved arches 
or torans, under which various 
Alaharanas have been weighed in 
the past against gold and silver, 
afterwards distributed in largesse. 
Beyond the Tripuha the Ganesh 
Deori gate leads S. to the fine old 
court known as the Rai Angan 
or Royal courtyard (1571 a.d.), 
adjoined on the E. side by the 
Jewel Room, and from this the 
visitor will be conducted over a 
number of palace enclosures all 
picturesque, and some beautifully 
decorated. Of these the Chhoti 
Chitra Shall has brilliant mosaics 
of peacocks, the Manak (Ruby) 
^lahal IS filled with figures of glass 
and porcelain, the jMoti (Pearl) 
Alahal IS decorated with mirrors, 
and the Chini ki Chitra Mahal 
^1711-34) has beautiful ornamen- 
fation of inlaid mirror work and 
line tiles of Dutch and Chinese 
make ; the Bari Mahal, or Amar 
^ilas (1699-1711), has a charming 
garden in the centre of it. On the 
side of the Tripulia are the 
Karan Vilas (1620-28 a.d.) and 
Khush Mahal buildings, while 
'Southwards hes the Shambhu 
Kiwas Palace, to which the present 
Maharana has added yet another 
residence. The Pichola lake (2i m. 
oy ij m ) bounds the city and 
palaces on the W. side. Its em- 
oankment is reached through a 
series of beautiful gardens S. of 
die palaces, and now named the 
Kijjan Xiwas ; and from these a 
road runs past the Dudh Talai 
^iown the E. side of the lake to the 
^-^di Khas, built by the late Chief 
‘'ll its Southern end for use as a 

[ ' ^ o' Mchia fateh 

Sun of a Piimc Miuiistcr of the Mevsar 
htate. 


133 

, shooting-box. The feeding at this 
place of the wild pigs every even- 
j ing affords a very curious sight. 

' Beautiful as the lake is when seen 
from the palace and other points, 
the view on it near the S. end, with 
the marble-capped islands in the 
foreground and the lofty palace 
and city in the distance, is one of 
still greater loveliness. The South- 
ern island is named the Jagmandar 
(1640 A.D.), and IS chiefly notable 
for the Gul Mahal, a domed pav- 
ilion — most of the other buildings 
date from the i8th century. On it 
Prince Khurram, later Shah Jahan, 
lived when in revolt against his 
father, the Emperor Jahangir, and 
the refugee ladies from Nimach 
were protected in 1857 (p. 12S). 
Farther N. is the Jagniwas Palace 
island (1740 a.d.), with the older 
Diiaram and Bari Mahal palaces, 
in beautiful gardens, and also, 
unfortunately, ^vith a modern 
palace and villa ; and beyond this 
again to the W. are two small 
structures in the lake. A number 
of state boats he at the free dis- 
posal of \dsitors at the Niwas 
Bandar (reached by the last lane 
on the right when approaching the 
old palace from the mam street of 
the city), and rowers are ready at 
hand ; a gratuity at the end is 
alone customary Visitors can 
land and be shown over the two 
islands, and can go to Odi Khas. 
By previous arrangement one way 
can be done by boat, the other by 
carriage. The view of the city 
and ghats and palaces from the 
bridge below the Gangour Ghat 
is also specially effective This 
bridge is reached by diving into 
the slums to the W of the main 
street ; also by using a boat. N. 
of the Pichola lake is the fineFateh 
Sagar constructed by the present 
Maharana. The foundation-stone 
of the great embankment was laid 
by the Duke of Connaught in 1S89. 
It can be reached by the road going 
W. from the liotel, which winds 
among the hills and along two sides 
of the lake, and then crosses the 



134 


India 


ROUT* 8. KHANDWA TO AJMER 


dam. Underneath the dam is the 
Slaves' Garden, well laid out. On 
the way back from this, the Resid- 
ency is passed ; also the Mission- \ 
house. A visit should be paid to ' 
the Victoria Hall and Museum with 
its statue of that Queen; also to 
the Central Jail, to see the carpet 
weaving and other industries. 

Two m. E. of the hotel, on the 
road to the station, are the re- 
mains of the ancient city called Arh, 
or Ahar. Close by the Chhatris or 
cenotaphs of the Maharanas Arh, 
containing the royal ashes, stand 
in what is called the Mahasati or 
royal place of cremation, which is 
enclosed by a lofty wall, and is 
adorned by many fine trees. The 
most remarkable are those ol San- 
gram Siugh 11} (1734), a large and 
beautiful structure, and of Amar 
Singh, grandson of Udai Singh 
(r6i6). Besides the modern vil- 
lage of Arh there are ruined 
temples of an older town. 

Special arrangements are neces- 
sary to visit the Great Lake at 
Kankroh, or Rajnagar, called the 
Kajsamudra,- 35 m. to the X. of 
Udaipur. The retaining wall is of 
massive masonry, in many places 
40 ft. high. The Band, or Ghat, is 
1 1 15 ft. long, with pavihons and 
torans, or ornamental arches, all 
of marble ; behind is an embank- 
ment 35 yds. wide. It was erected 
(1660) as a famine work. On the 
S.E. side of the lake is the town of 
Kankroh, with a beautiful temple. 
There is a fair cart-track to this 
place. 14 m. N. of Udaipur in a 
bold ravine are the Ekiingji lake 
and temple, a beautiful structure 
of white marble, sacred to the 
family deity of the Maharana. 
Near this, at Xagda, arc two line 
Jain temples, culled the Sas Haha, 
or Moth.:r and L»aug^ltc^-ill-U\^ 

The route to the Jaisamand 
lake, made at the end of the 17th 
century, and about 32 m. S E. ch [ 

^ See Fergusson s Indian A rchiiectu-f'e. 

2, 105. 

- Ibid., 184, 


Udaipur, runs through a wild 
country ; it is about 9 m. by 5 m., 
and is one of the most beautiful 
sights in India The dam is 1000 
ft. in length and 98 ft. in height. 
There is a fair road to it, which can 
be used by motor cars. 

W. of the city is the Sujjaiigar 
hill, 1000 ft above the Pichola 
lake, surmounted by a palace, 
from which a fine view can be ob- 
tained as a reward for an arduous 
ascent. 


378 m. irom Khandwa is Nasira- 
had station, D.B. (population 
20,241), the mihtary Cantonment 
for Ajmer, from which it can con- 
veniently be visited by train, or by 
a picturesque road through some 
fine hills (14 m.) The station wa^ 
originally laid out in 1818 by 
Sir Da\dd Ochterlony. Interest 
IS attached to Nasirabad from 
the fact that when the mutiny 
broke out in 1857 the ist Bom- 
bay Cavalry were compelled to 
remain neutral — though loyally 
incUned — as their families were 
at the mercy of the Bengal 
regiment, which mutinied and 
marched to Delhi. 

DeoU, a small Cantonment of an 
Irregular Force, lying 57 m S.E. 
of Nasirabad, may be reached by 
tonga, ordered from the latter 
place. The Kotah contingent 
.stationed at Deoli in 1857 marched 
to Agra, but mu timed there. 
Twenty-five m. beyond Deoli is the 
picturesque city of Bundi (D.B.) — 
introduction to Political Agent, 
Kotah and Bundi, necessary. 


393 m. from Khandwa is Ajmer 
junction station Kee Koute lo). 


ROUTE <). IIARSI JlNcnOK TO JHANSl 


A 35 


ROUTE 9. 

LTARSI JUNCTION to J HAN Si 
by Bhopal, San chi and Bina 
(line to Saugor and to Baran and 
Kotah) and from Jliansi to 

(a) Kalpi and Cawnpore ; 

(b) Datia, Gwalior, Dholpur, and 
Agra, Muttra, and Delhi ; 

(c) Crclilia, Barwa-Sagar, Banda, 
and Manikpur, ^vith excur- 
sions to Nowgong and Khaj- 
raho. 

'.tarsi junction station, 464 m. 
irom Bombay on the G.UP. 
Kailway {see p. 33). The line 
lollowed by this route is that of 
Uic Indian Midland, which is 
managed by the G UP Railway ; 
it formed the speediest route 
between Bombay and the NAV. 
of India until the Ratlam-Nagda- 
Miittra route (p, 160) was opened 
Mail from Bombay to Cawnpore 
and to Agra, 24 hours, and to 
flellii, Lahore, and Peshawar, 28, 
38, and 52 hours respectively. 
Fares to Delhi, Rs 66 4, Rs.33.3, 
and Rs.8 12, 

12 m. Hoshangabad station 
(476 m from Bombay, 481 m, from 
Belhi), D.B. (about a mile from 
the railway station), named after 
Hoshang Ghori (p. 125). A town 
With population of 5503, and 
headquarters of a district. Pass- 
ing this the railway crosses the 
barbada (dividing Bhopal from 
British territory) on a fine bridge. 
About 4 m. N of the Narbada 
liver the well-wooded, picturesque 
-’scent of the ghat commences, and 
at the top the hne runs on the 
tableland of Malwa, with an aver- 
age elevation of 1500 ft. 

57 in* from Itarsi is Bhopal 
station -(R.), D B. near the railway 
station (branch to Ujjaxn). The 
town (population 56,204) stands on 


j the N. bank of a hne and extensive 
I lake, 4J m. long and m. broad, 
i and is enclosed by a wall some 
1 miles in length. It is the capital 
I of a Native State, under the Cen- 
! tral Indian Agency, with an area 
; of G902 sq. m. Visitors who can 
i obtain an introduction to H.H. the 
Be gam can be comfortably enter- 
I tamed at the State Guest House 
I — a handsome and well-appointed 
I building situated on the edge of 
the beautiful lake. Carnages are 
I always available for such visitors, 
i Sanclii can be conveniently 
i \Tsited from Bhopal, and, if suffi- 
cient notice is given, elephants can 
be obtained for ascending the hill 
to the topes. The dynasty was 
founded by Dost ^luhammad, an 
Afghan chief in the service of 
Aurangzeb, who took advantage 
of the troubles that followed the 
Emperor's death to establish his 
independence. His family have 
always shown their friendship tor 
the British. In 1 778, w hen General 
Goddard made his famoub march 
across India, Bhopal was the only 
Indian State which showed itseli 
friendly. In 1809. when General 
Close commanded another expedi- 
tion in the neighbourhood, the 
Nawab of Bhopal applied to be 
received under British protection, 
but without success. The Nawab 
then obtained assistance from the 
I Pindaris m the gallant struggle 
he maintained to defend himself 
against Scindia and Raghoji 
Bhonsla, in the course of which 
ins capital underwent a severe 
but ineffectual siege. 

In 1817 the British Government 
, intervened and formed an alliance 
with the Nawab, who was, in i8i8, 
guaranteed his possessions, by 
treaty, on condition of furiuslung 
600 horse and 400 infantry, to 
maintain which five districts in 
Malwa w'ere assigned to liim. He 
%vas soon afterwards killed by a 
pistol accidentally discharged by a 
child. His nephew, a boy, was 
declared his successor, and be- 
trothed to his infant daughter, 



ROUTE 9. ITARSI JUNCTION TO JHANSI 


India 


136 

but the Nawab's widow, Kudsia 
Begam, endeavoured to keep the 
government in her own hands, and 
the declared' heir resigned his 
claim to the throne and to the 
hand of the Nawab’s daughter, 
Sikandar Begam, in favour of his 
brother Jahangir Muhammad. 
After long dissensions Jahangir 
Muhammed was installed as 
Nawab in 1837, through the 
mediation of the British. He 
died in 1844, when his infant 
daughter, Shah Jahan, was recog- 
nised as his successor, and Sikan- 
dar Begam, his widow, was made 
regent. After the mutiny of 
1857 Sikandar was made the 
actual ruler, Shah Jahan becoming 
heir apparent. Sikandar ruled 
till her death in 1868. Shah 
Jahan Begam ruled till 1901, and 
was succeeded by Her Highness 
Nawab Sultan Jahan Begam, 
G.C.S.I., G.C.I.E., C.I. The State 
maintains a force of regulars and 
irregulars, and the Imperial Service 
Cavalry, numbering 1878 of all 
ranks. The last named is com- 
manded by Her Highness's second 
son, and is highly efficient. The 
regulars include sixty-two artil- 
lerymen, with four guns and fifty- 
horses. A military band, forty- 
four strong, is trained to play 
European music. The State pays 
£13,000 to the British Government 
towards the upkeep of the force 
stationed at Sehore. 

The name of Bhopal is said 
to be derived from that of its I 
founder. Raja Bhoj, and the dam 
by which he formed the Tank, 
dam being in Hindi paL Thus 
Bhoj pal has been corrupted into 
Bhopal. 

The Palace of ike Begam is not 
of much architectural beauty, but 
is a large and imposing building. 
The Citadel walls afford a fine 
view of the lake and surrounding 
countrv. The Jami Masjid was 
built by Kudsia Begam, and the 
Moil Masjid, which somewhat re- 
sembles the Mosque at Delhi, by 
Sikandar Begam. The Mint and 


Arsenal, and the Gardens of the 
Kudsia and Sikandar Begams also 
deserve a visit. Other objects 
worth seeing are the Taj-uP 
masajid, commenced by Shah 
Jahan — when completed it will be 
the largest mosque in India ; the 
King Ed-ward Museum, opened 
by Lord Minto in 1909 ; the 
armoury in the Fatehgarh Fort 
(the Citadel) ; the very pictur- 
esque Chaiik in the centre of the 
city ; the Lady Lansdowne Hos- 
pital, and the club for parda ladies 
wlucli was established by the Be- 
gam ; the Alexandra High School 
for boys in the Be-nazir palace, 
the most picturesque building in 
Bhopal ; the Sultania Girls’ 
School in the Taj Mahal palace ; 
the hues of the Imperial Service 
Cavalry", and the polo ground. 
The roads and main buildings are 
lit by electric light. The town 
waterworks were built by Kudsia 
Begam. Excellent rowing-boats 
are kept on both lakes. A drive 
to the Simla Kothi will well repay 
those who have time for it. The 
good shooting (big and small 
game) round Bhopal is not avail- 
able without permission. 

91 m. Bhilsa station. A forti- 
fied town in the Gwalior State. 
Population 7000. In the fort lies 
an old gun, 19 J ft. in length, with 
a bore of 10 in., said to have been 
made by order of the Emperor 
Jahangir. Bhilsa is now chiefly 
noteworthy as a famous place of 
Hindu pilgrimage to the temples, 
picturesquely situated in the bed 
of the Betwa river, and as giving 
its name to the remarkable and 
interesting series of Buddhist 
topes found in its neighbourhood.' 
The principal of these is at Sanchi. 

1 These are described in General Cunning- 
harn’s Bhilsa. Topes, i vo!. 8vo. 1854 ; also 
in F'ergusson’s Tret and Serpent Worship. 
One half of this book and forty-five of its 
plates, besides woodcuts, are devoted to the 
illustration of the Great Tope. Casts of 
tile L. ^.ateway are in the South Kensington 
and KJuinurgh Museums. 



ROUTE 9. SANCHI 


137 


85 m. from Itarsi is Sanclii ^ 
(549 m. from Bombay, 408 m. from 
Delhi), the station before Bhilsa. 
'Hiere is a good D.B. of the Bhopal 
State near the station, and fast 
trains can be stopped here by 
the courtesy of the Traftic Super- 
intendent at Bombay. The bung- 
alow is furnished, and a khansama 
I'j kept ; but travellers intending 
to halt here should take food and 
bedding with them, and give pre- 
vious notice of their visit. 

The monuments at Sanchi con- 
•^titute the largest and most impor- 
tant of several groups of Buddhist 
monuments situated in the neigh- 
bourhood ot the ancient city of 
^ idisa (near the modern Bhilsa) 
and often referred to as the ‘ ‘ Bhilsa 
lopes.'' In contrast with other 
famous centres of Buddhism, such as 
Duddh-Gaya, Sarnath, or Sankisa, 
banchi had no connection with the 
hfe or acts of the Buddha ; never- 
theless its buildings are now the 
most magnificent and perfect 
e>camples of Buddhist architecture 
m India Perhaps it was the in- 
ItTest taken in the spot by the 
.?reat Emperor Asoka, who was to 
Duddhism what Constantine the 
Great was to Christianity, that 
accounts for the splendour of these 
"structures. For one of the queens 
9I Asoka, Devi by name, came 
from Vidisa ; and it was on the 
bill of Sanchi, then known as 
bhetiyagiri, that a monastery is 
s<ud to have been built for Ins son 
alahindra. Whether this story is 
true or not, the fact remains that 
the earliest buildings here date 
horn the time of Asoka, and that 
that Emperor is commemorated 
here more than anvwhere else in 
India. 

The majority of the monuments 
"hich are now exposed to \’iew 

^ General Alaisey’.s Sanchi and its 
^^mains (1S50-51), published in 1892, 
a selection of photographs published 
u/Ucr the orders of .Sir Lepel Gnflin, 

C. I., when .\geut to tlie (iuveriior- 
jciieral^ for Central India, contain soiiit 1 
“lustrations of the tope and its sculpture-*. 


have recently been excavated by 
Sir John Marshall on behalf of the 
Bhopal Darbar, and much has 
been done to rescue the remainder 
from the ruin into which they had 
fallen and to preserve their fabrics 
and beautify their surroundings 
Most of them are situated on a 
plateau on the hilltop, which in 
later mediaeval times — ^that is 
about 1100 A.D. — was enclosed by 
a circuit wall of solid stone con- 
struction. The buildings on this 
plateau divide themselves naturally 
into four classes ; namely : Firstly, 
the stupas, or, as the Burmese 
would call them, pagodas, which 
were erected either to enshrine the 
relics of the Buddha or of one of his 
saints, or to commemorate some 
specially holy spot ; secondly, the 
: memorial pillars set up by the 
Emperor Asoka or by other de- 
votees in later ages ; thirdly, the 
chapels or chaitya halls in which 
the faithful met together for their 
prayers and the shrines of mediae- 
val date in which images of the 
Buddha were set up ; and fourthly, 
the monasteries or convents in 
which the monks and nuns lived 
side by side. 

Of the stupas on the hilltop 
there are many scores, ranging in 
date from the 3rd century b.c. 
down to the 1 2th century a. d., and 
in size from the Great Stupa, with 
its vast imposing dome, down to 
miniature votive stupas no more 
than a foot in height. Each one 
of them was set up by the pious 
Buddhists as a work of lAent which 
Avould help the donor a step nearer 
to his goal. As it now stands, the 
Great Stupa consists of an almost 
hemispherical dome truncated near 
the top and surrounded at its base 
b\^ a lofty terrace. On the berm 
of this terrace and round about 
its foot were two procession paths 
{pradakshina patha) ; and each of 
these was enclosed by a balustrade 
ot stone, while on the summit of 
tlv' dome was a third balustrade 
surrounding the sacred umbrella 
which in\'ariabiy crowned these 



ROUTE 9. ITARSI JUNCTION TO J HAN SI 


hidta 


^38 


monuments, and which was an 
emblem of the royalty of the 
Buddha — the Universal Monarch. 
But the crowning beauty of this 
monument is the richly carved | 
gateways or tor ana 'i which front 
the entrances between the four 
quadrants of the rail and constitute 
a most striking contrast with the 
massive simplicity of the structure 
behind. All four gateways are of 
similar design — the work of car- 
penters rather than of stone 
masons — and the marvel is that 
erections of this kind, constructed 
on principles wholly unsuited to 
work in stone, should have sur- 
vived m such remarkable preserva- 
tion for nearly 2000 years. The 
best preserved is the Northern one, 
which still retains most of its orna- 
mental features and enables the 
visitor to reconstruct in his mind's 
eye the original appearance of 
them all. Each gateway was com- 
posed of two square pillars sur- 
mounted bv capitals, which in 
their turn supported a super- 
structure ot tliree architraves with 
volute ends, ranged one above the 
other at intervals slightly in excess 
of their own height. The capitals 
were adorned with standing dwarfs 
or with the forefronts of lions or 
elephants set back to back in the 
Persepolitan fashion ; and spring- i 
ing from the same abacus and act- | 
mg as supports to the projecting | 
ends of the lowest architrave, were j 
Caryatid figures of graceful and I 
pleasing outline. Other images of ; 
men and 'women, horsemen, ele- ! 
phants and lions were disposed i 
betw'een and above the architraves, 
wliile crowming and dominating all 
was the sacred wheel, so insepar- 
ably connected with Buddhism, 
Hanked on either side by attend- 
ants and triratna emblems. For 
the rest, both pillars and super- 
structure w'ere elaborately en- 
riched with bas-reliefs illustrative 
of the jataka legends or scenes 
from the life of the Buddha, or ! 
of important events in the sub- | 
sequent history of the Buddhist I 


religion. The inscriptions carved 
here and there on the gateways 
record the names of pious indi- 
viduals or of guilds who contri- 
buted to their erection, but say not 
a word of the scenes and figures 
delineated, the interpretation of 
which has been rendered all the 
more difficult by the practice, uni- 
versal in the Early School, of never 
portraying the Buddha in bodily 
form, but of indicating his pres- 
ence merely by some symbol, such 
as his footprints, or the throne 
whereon he sat, or the sacred tree 
associated with his enlightenment. 
The reliefs are too numerous to be 
described at length, but those on 
the front facade of the East Gate- 
way may be taken as typical of the 
rest On the right pillar are re- 
presented, m six panels, the six 
devalokas or stages of the Buddhist 
Paradise, their respective deities 
seated like mortal kings in each. 
On the left, starting from the base, 
is Bimbisara, with his royal cortege 
issuing from the city of Raj agriha 
on a visit to the Buddha, here sym- 
bolised by his empty throne. This 
visit took place after the conver- 
-sion of Kasyapa, and in the panel 
above is depicted one of the mir- 
acles by which Buddha converted 
the Brahman ascetic. The Nair- 
anjana river is shown in flood with 
Kasyapa and two of his disciples 
hastening in a boat to the rescue of 
Buddha. Then, in the low^er part 
of the picture, Buddha, repre- 
sented again by his throne, appears 
walking on the face of the waters, 
and in the foreground the figures 
of Kasyapa and his disciples are 
repeated, now on dry ground and 
doing homage to the Master. The 
third panel portrays the temple at 
Buddh-Gaya, built by Asoka, with 
the throne of Buddha within and, 
spreading through its upper win- 
dows, the branches of the sacred 
tree. It is the illumination of 
Buddha ; and to right and left of 
the temple are four figures in an 
attitude of prayer — ^perhaps the 
Guardian Kings of the four quar- 



ROUTE 9. SANCHl 


ters ; while ranged above in two 
tiers are groups of deities looking 
on in adoration from their celes- 
tial paradises. The scenes on the 
lintels are still more elaborate. On 
the lowest we see. in the centre, 
the temple and tree of Buddh-Gaya ; 
to the left, a crowd of musicians 
and devotees with water vessels ; 
lu the right, a royal retinue and a 
king and queen descending from 
an elephant, and afterwards doing 
worship at the tree. This is the 
ceremonial visit which Asoka and 
his queen Tishyarakshita paid to 
the Bodhi tree, for the purpose ot 
watering it and restoring its pris- 
tine beautv after the evil spell 
which the queen had cast upon it. 
The middle lintel is occupied with 
the scene of Buddha’s departure 
from Kapilavastu {Mahabhtnish' 
kramana). To the left, is the city 
With wall and moat, and issuing 
from its gate the horse Kanthaka, 
his hoofs supported by Yakshas 
and accompanied by the divinities 
in attendance on the Buddha, and 
hy Chandaka, his groom, who 
holds the umbrella symbolical of 
his Master's presence. In order 
to indicate the progress of the 
hrince, this group is repeated four 
tunes in succession towards the 
right of the relief, and then, at the 
parting of the ways, we see Chan- 
daka and the horse sent back to 
Kapilavastu and the further jour- 
ney of Buddha indicated by his 
footprints surmounted by the 
umbrella. Lastly, in the topmost 
hntel, are representations of the 
‘"cven last Buddhas, the first and 
fast symbolised b}^ thrones beneath 
their appropriate Bodhi trees, the 
rest by the stupas which enshrined 
their relics. 

descriptions of the other gate- 
ways have been given as follows; — 

North ( a tew ay. Pillars sur- 
mounted. by elephants and riders. 
Ui^hi pillar — front face; Stair- 
case and Buddhist railing. Inner 
face : Worship of tope and trees, 


139 

monkey worshippers in one scene. 
Left pillar — front face ; Worship 
of tree, procession, scenes at foun- 
tain. Inner face : Cave temple, 
procession, tree worship. The 
Architraves bear scenes of proces- 
sions with chariots, tree worship, 
and dagoba worship, and on the 
back of giants' and of hermits’ 
huts. The floral patterns on the 
outer sides of these pillars arc 
noticeable. 

South Gateway. — Pillars sur- 
mounted by four lions. Left 
pillar — front Casket scene in 
palace, worship of topes, siege, and 
relic procession. Architraves — 
Siege of a city. The right pillar 
of this gate has not been found. 

Western Gateway. — Pillars sur- 
mounted by four dwarfs. Right 
pillar — front : Trial of the bow, 
tree worship. Back ; Worship of 
trees, one under an umbrella. 
Left pillar — -front: Love scenes. 
Back : Hermits, tree festival, boat 
scene. Architraves — front ; Pro- 
cession with relic-casket, worship 
of symbol and trees. Back : 
Worship of topes and temple, 
triumphal procession. 

The Great Stupa, or Tope, at 
Sanchi, anciently called Chaitya 
gin, the Chapel Hill, and the ruined 
buildings surrounding it are, as 
stated, situated on a level platform 
upon the top of the hill, which ib 
about 35Q ft. above the plain, and is 
approached by an easy path. The 
Tope with its rail and gateways 
were carefully and satisfactorily 
restored in 1883. They now form 
one of the most picturesque ab 
well as one of the most intercbting 
monuments of India The dome, 
which IS 42 ft. liigh and 106 ft m 
diameter, rises from a plinth of 14 
it ; this IS surmounted by a ter- 
raced path, re.iched by step.s on the 
S ,1-1.' r ''m>y >,’voiNliip]>t rs for ihe 
p. 1 ambulai'on oi the 'I'opc ami the 
reHc buried in it. The Tope was 



i40 

crowned by an altar or pedestal 
surrounded by a rail, and must 
once have been nearly loo ft. high, 
but these have not been restored ; 
the pillars of the rail be 



Plan. 


noticed on the ground at the N.E. 
side of the level platform. The 


India 

let into them ; a rounded coping 
stone surmounts the whole. At 
each cardinal point the railing is 
broken by a splendidly-decorated 
gateway t 8 ft. high and 7 ft. 
broad, crowned by a superstruc- 
ture of three stages of cross-beams, 
surmounted by a wheel and other 
Buddhist emblems ; facing each 
gateway, with its back to the wall 
of the plinth, is a large seated 
statue, probably representing the 
four last Buddhas. The faces of 
the pillars of the gateways and of 
the cross - beams are elaborately 
carved with a series of most inter- 
esting scenes, the principal of which 
have been described. 

It used to be thought that the 
Great Stupa, as it stands, was 
erected at the same time as the 
column near the Southern Gate- 
way- — -that is, during the reign of 
the Mauryan Emperor Asoka in 
the third century b.c., and it used 
also to be thought that the balus- 
trade around its base was approxi- 
match' contemporarv with the 
boi\' ol tli- bud-'mo ; .\nd tint 


ROUTE 9. ITARSI JUNCTION TO jHANSl 



Section ^'Irent Tope at Sanchi. 


lope was enclosed below eit a 
distance of yi- ft. from it by a great 
railing shghtlv elliptical in shape, 
the diameter from W. to E. being 
144 ft. and from N. to S. 151 ft. 
The railing is formed of pillars 
nearly 10 ft. high, carrying three 
bars, each 2 ft. 2 in long, and 
separated by an interval of 3 in.. 


the four gatewai's were erected in 
the course of the 2nd century B.c. 
1 his chronology, however, has now 
pro\"ed erroneous. The stupa 
wliich Asoka built was a structure 
ot brick of about half tlie dimen- 
sions of the present stupa , and it 
v^'as not until a century or more 
later that this original brick edifice 


ROUTE g. THE SANCHI TOPE 


141 


was encased in stone and m-j 
brought to its present size, or that 
the balustrade was built around 
its base ; and it was not until two 
centuries later that the four gate- 
ways were erected The column 
of Asoka referred to, though now 
shattered and in pieces, is \vell 
worthy of attention. On its 
broken stump the visitor can still 
trace out the edict written in the 
early Brahmi characters in which 
the Great Emperor exhorted the 
Buddhists to avoid schisms in 
their church ; and the lions on the 
c apital, with their swelling veins 
<ind tense muscular development, 
atford a fine example ol what 
tlraeco- Persian art was achieving 
in India during the ]Maurya age. 

<-)f the other stupas on this 
ate two are specially remarkable. 
One of them {So 3) stands about 
hfty yards to the North-east of 
the Great Stupa and is of almost 
identically the same design but 
of smaller proportions The dome 
nnd railings have recently been 
reconstructed, and from it the 
Msitor can now obtain a fair idea 
of the ancient appearance of these 
monuments, though, to render the 
mental picture complete, he must 
bear in mind that the surface of the 
monuments was once coated with 
stucco ; that moulded in relief on 
this stucco were great swags or 
itarlands encircling the dome ; and 
that gold and brilliant colours were 
used to pick out the decorations, 
if not to embellish the whole body 
of the building. It was in this 
stupa that the relics of the tw^o 
famous disciples of the*Buddha— 
bariputra and Mahamogalana — 
ere discovered, and in old days it 
must have been invested with 
peculiar sanctity. The chamber 
m which the relics were found was 
■^et in the centre of the structure 
and on a level with the top of the 
terrace. It contained two stone 
boxes, each bearing a short in- 
scription : on one the word San- 
puiasa “of Sariputra/’ and on the 
<^Ther Mahamogalana sa “of Maha- i 


niogLiiana ' , and inside each of the 
I boxes was a casket of steatite con- 
taining some small fragments of 
human bone and a variety of beads 
of pearl, garnet, lapis-lazuli, crystal 
and amethyst. 

The other stupa stands on a 
ledge of rock half-way down the 
W'estern side of the hill, and is ot 
about the same size as the one just 
described Here there is no gate- 
way but, on the other hand, the 
railing around the base is almost 
intact and exhibits a variety of 
most interesting reliefs of the primi- 
tive Indian school, which present 
a striking contrast with the more 
advanced art of the gateway sculp- 
tures. WTiat is especially striking 
about these reliefs is the extra- 
ordinarilv crude treatment of liv- 
ing figures coupled with the no less 
extraordinary power of decorative 
design The Indian artist has 
always possessed an innate apti- 
I tilde for the handhng of ornamen- 
j tal and particularly of floral pat- 
terns, but it was not until Greek 
influence made itsell felt in the 
North-west of India that he learnt 
how to portray the human figure. 
This is well illustrated by a com- 
parison of the majority of the 
reliefs with a few of markedly 
superior execution, but lacking 
decorative power, which were 
added at a later date. 

Of the shrines and monasteries 
the most noteworthv is the ckaitya 
hall (Temple No 18), which stands 
directlv opposite the South en- 
trance of the Great Stupa, and 
which is speciall)^ interesting to 
the antiquarian as one of the few 
examples of structural edifices of 
this type. But apart from this 
mere academic value the visitor 
[ will find a wonderful charm in the 
j classic-looking columns of the nave 
I whichtransport the memory back 
I to the pillared aisles of Paestum or 
I of Athens ; and he will not fail to 
I mark the resemblance between its 
rounded apse and the apses of our 
own earlv Christian churches. The 
pillars arid walls of this chapel that 



India 


142 


ROUTE 9. ITARSI JUNCTION TO JHANSI 


a:\ now exposed to date hat. k 
no turther than tiie 7tn ceiitur\ 
of our era, and the sculptured jamb 
of the porch which lies prostrate 
in front of the door is more modern 
still by three or four centuries ; 
but beneath the floor of the temple 
are the remains of three older 
chapels which successively occu- ^ 
pied the same site, but, being con- j 
structed ol -wood, perished one 
after another before the existing 
edifice was built. 

Another structure which recalls 
the classic temples of Greece, is a 
little shrine a few paces to the East 
of the one just described. It is a 
very unpretentious building, con- 
sisting of a simple flat-rooled 
chamber with a pillared porch m 
front ; but, despite its modest size, 
it is very characteristic of the age 
of India's “ Renaissance," when art 
and thought aUke found expres- 
sion in the same intellectuality, 
in the same purposefulness, and 
in the same logical definition as 
the art and thought of Greece did 
eight centuries earlier, and oi 
Italy more than a thousand years 
later. To the South of this shrine 
is a lofty plinth supporting the 
stumps of numerous octagonal 
columns. Originally it was an 
apsidal chaitya hall, with a super- 
structure of wood, but the super- 
structure was burnt down about 
the beginning of the Christian era 
and the plinth was then enlarged 
and stone substituted for wood. 
Manv of the columns bear ex-voio 
inscriptions in the early Brahmi 
characters. 

Of the fourth and last class ol 
monuments on this site— namel\' 
the residence of monks and nuns — j 
there are five examples, and they 
range in date from the 4 th to 
the nth century of our era. The 
earlier ones, which once occupied I 
the Eastern side of the plateau. I 
were built of wood and have per- : 
ished or been buried beneath the 
foundations of later structures. 
Those which have survived are all 
built more or less on the same plan 


tliv plan ol tli’ (u-Jinary domes- 
tic bourse of cimn-nt India — with a 
square open court in the centre and 
ranges of two-stbreyed chambers 
on the four sides. The most in- 
teresting, as well as the most 
modern among them, is the one 
occupying the highest part of the 
plateau towards the West. Here 
are the remains of several courts, 
surrounded by monastic cells, and 
on the Eastern side of what was 
evidently the principal court is a 
lofty shrine, containing an image of 
the Buddha, seated in that familiar 
attitude beneath the Bodhi 
tree, when toucliing the earth 
with his right hand he called on 
her to bear witness for him 
against Mara, the Evil One. Nine 
out of ten visitors imagine that 
this shrine is not Buddhist at all 
but Hindu, for its style is pre- 
cisely that of a Hindu temple of 
the late mediaeval period, and, 
were it not for the statue of the 
Buddha in the sanctum and some 
of the images in the niches round 
its outer wails, there would be 
nothing to indicate its Buddhist 
character. The reason for this is 
that by the nth century Bud- 
dhism had come deeply under the 
influence of Hinduism, and this 
influence made itself manifest in 
many new doctrines and ideas, 
which it absorbed from the parent 
religion, as well as in the more 
superficial matter of its archi- 
tecture. 

Close to the S, gate are the 
remains of a fine pillar nearly 40 ft. 
high, which carried a bell-shaped 
capital of fbur lions back to back ; 
another stood near the Northern 
gate. On the platform will be 
observed many interesting sculp- 
tures and remains, including a 
huge stone bowl. To the S. of the 
Tope are the rums of the only 
structural chaitya chapel known 
to exist ; the colonnade of the 
nave and apsidal end can be 
clearly recognised. 

To the W. a path descends 
steeply to the smaller tope near 


ROUTE 9. 

the foot of the hill ; this also has a 
very interesting railing, 7 J ft. high, 
with carved medallions on the 
pillars and well-sculptured scenes 
(jn the gateways, and should be 
visited on the wa}’ back to the 
rest-house. In it were found 
lelics ot Kasyapa and Alogali- 
putra, well - known Buddhist 
apostles in the 3rd century b c 

The country for some distance 
round is studded with Buddhist 
remains, but only at Sanchi itself 
are the remains abundant and 
well preserved. Sanchi is referred 
to by the Chinese pilgrim Fa-Hian 
in his description of the great 
kingdom of “ Sha-chi." 

Besides the group at Sanchi, 
there is at Sonari, 6 m. off, a group 
ol eight topes, of which two are 
important structures in square 
courtyards, and in one of these 
numerous relics were found. At 
>)adhara, 3 m. farther, is a tope 
loi ft. in diameter, which yielded 
no reUcs, and one 24 ft. in dia- 
meter, in which were found relics 
'->1 Sariputra and others like those 
Jound at Sanchi. At Besyiagar, 
near Bhiisa {an ancient city ex- 
tending from the junction ol the 
Betwa and Bes rivers as far S 
Udayagin Hill and E to 
the Lohanggi Rock of Bhiisa) , 
was lately found a column refer- 
ring to the Graeco-Bactrian King 
Antialkidas, of the date ot 140 

B.C. 

At Bhojpur, 7 m. from Sanchi, 
nre thirty-seven topes, -the largest 
^^6 ft. in diameter, and in the next 
to It important rehcs were found 
At Andher, 5 m. W. of Bhojpur, is 
s group of three small but very 
interesting topes. “ So far as can 
he at present ascertained," says 
Fergusson,^ " there seems no 
reason for assuming that any ol 
them are earlier than the age of j 
Asoka, 250 B.C., nor is it probable j 
that any of them can be of later 
date than, say, the ist century 
before our era." 

* Indian Archittcture, 1,71. 


SAUGOR 143 

143 m. from I tarsi is Bma 
junction (R.). 

Hence a line runs N.W. to 73 m. 
Goona, 147 m. Baran, and 188 m. 
Kotah (p. on the new direct 

route between Bombay and Delhi, 
controlled by the Bombay Baroda 
and Central Indian Railway, and 
another 165 m. S.E. to Katni on 
j the E.I.R, (p. 40}, past Saugor 
; and Dam oh. 8 m. from Bina, 
i at Eran, are some Jain and Bud- 
j dhist ruins, including two lats or 
' monoUthic pillars. 


47 m. from Bina junction is 
Saugor (D.B.) Principal tow n and 
headquarters of Saugor district, 
Central Provinces, and a military 
Cantonment Population 45.938. 
Saugor stands 1940 ft above sea- 
level, on the borders of a fine lake 
[Sagay\, nearly i m. broad, from 
which it derives it^> name The lake 
said to be an ancient Banjara 
w'ork, but the present city dates 
only from the end of the 17th 
century, and orves its rise to a 
Bundela Raja, who built a small 
fort on the site of the present 
structure in 1660, and founded a 
village called Parkota. now' a 
quarter of the modern towm. 
During the mutiny of 1857 the 
town and fort were held by the 
English for eight months, until the 
arrival of Sir Hugh Rose. During 
that time the whole of the sur- 
rounding country was in the 
possession of the rebels. 

Saugor town is well built, with 
wade streets- The large bathing- 
ghats on the banks of the lake, for 
the most part surrounded with 
Hindu temples, add much to its 
appearance 

The existing Foyt at Saugor w'as 
completed by the Mahrattas about 
17S0. It stands on a height N.W 
of the lake, commanding the whole 
of the city and surrounding coun- 
try, and consists of tw^enty round 
tow'ers, varying from 20 ft. to 40 
I it in height, connected by thick 
i curtain w^alls. It encloses a space 



144 


India 


ROUTE 9. ITARSI JUNCTION TO JHANSI 


of 6 acres, for the most part 
covered with old Mahratta build- 
ings two storeys high. In 1862 an 
uidiealthy swamp lying N.E. of 
the lake, which cut o& the quarter 
called Gopalganj from the rest of 
the city, was converted into a 
large garden with numerous drives 
and a piece of ornamental water. 

A Cavalry School was started at 
Saiigor in 1910 but has b.^eri 
closed during the War. 1 he course 
for British officers lasted from the 
beginning of September to the end 
of April. A military wureless 
telegraphy centre is alsd to be 
established here in the near future. 

The Pohce Officers’ Training 
School, at which sub-inspectors of 
police are trained, was started in 
1906, and is located in the fort. 


182 m. from Itarsi is : alitpur 
■tation (D.n ), 57 m from Jhansi 
It is the chief town and tiic ad- 
ministrative headquarters of the 
Lalitpur subdivision of the Jhansi 
District Population 12,449. 


207 m. Talbahat station. Pop- 
ulation 6433. There is an Inspec- 
tion House. A picturesque town 
with a large piece of artificial water 
covering more than i sq. m. The 
water is retained by damming the 
streams that flow through a rocky 
barrier about Soo ft high. 


238 m. from Itarsi is Jhansi 
junction station (R.. D B ), centre 
of the Indian ^ lid land Railway 
system. The mam Une runs N. to 
Gwalior, 61 m., and Agra, 134 ni., 
one branch N.E to Cawnpore. 137 
m., and another E. through Banda, 
1 19 m., to the E I. Railway at 
Manikpur (p. 41), 181 m. 

By road Jhansi to Saugor (D.B ) 
is 122 m., a fair motoring road. 
The Betwa river is crossed at 
24 m. from Jhansi by a ferr3^ 
Jhansi to Banda is 122 m., via 


Nowgjiig 63 in Jhansi tu bij'i! 
(\V ) Is 91 m. by a metalled road. 
Sipn is the summer headquarters 
of the Gwahor State administra- 
tion. Jhansi to Gwahor is 61 m., 
to Dholpur 103 m., to Agra 138 m. 
Suitable for motors. Petrol can 
be obtained from the Bundelkhand 
Motor Agency in the Sadr Bazar. 

Jhansi (lat. 25° 27^ long. 78° 
37^ population 70,191) is one 
of the main halting-places for 
troops proceeding up country. 
It IS well worthy of a visit 
on account of its fort, which 
the British Government have 
obtained, in 1885, in exchange 
with Maharaja Sindhia for Gwa- 
lior ; and on account of the 
various places of inteiest — Datia, 
Orchha, Barwa Sagar — which can 
be reached from it. 


The Province of Bundelkhand, 
in which Jhansi is situated, was for 
ages one of the most turbulent and 
difficult to manage in all India. 
In the early part of the 17th 
century the Orchha State was 
governed by Bir Singh Deo (1605- 
26), the most famous of its 
Chiefs, who built the fort of 
Jhansi, 8 m. to the N. of his 
capital, which is situated on an 
island in the Betwa river. Ke 
incurred the heavy displeasure of 
.\kbar by the murder of Abul Fazl, 
the Emperor’s favourite Minister 
and historian, at the instigation of 
Prince Sahm, afterwards known as 
the Emperor Jahangir. A force 
was accordingly sent against him 
in 1602 ; the country was ravaged 
and devastated, but Bir Singh 
himself contrived to escape. On 
the accession of his patron, Salim, 
in 1605, he was naturally par- 
doned. and rose into great favour ; 
but when, on the death of that 
Emperor in 1627, Shah Jahan 
mounted the throne, Bir Singh 
revolted. His rebellion was un- 
successful, and although he was 



ROUTE g. BUNDELKHAND JHANSI 


145 


permitted to keep possession of his 
dominions, he never regained all 
his former power and independ- 
ence. During the troubled times 
which succeeded Orchha "svas 
bometimes in the hands of the 
Muhammadans and sometimes 
lell under the power of Bundela 
Chieftains. In 1732 Chatar Sal 
lound it expedient to call in the 
aid of the Mahrattas, who were 
then invading the Central Pro- 
vinces under their Peshwa Baji 
Rao I. They came to his 
assistance \nth their accustomed 
promptitude, and were rewarded 
on the Chief's death, in 1734, 
by a bequest of one - third of 
his dominions. The territory so 
granted included portions of the 
luodern division of Jhansi, but 
nut the existing district itself. In 
1742, however, the Mahrattas 
lound a pretext for attacking the 
Orchha State and annexing it 
amongst other territories. Their 
Ceneral tounded the city of Jhansi, 
and peopled it with the inhabi- 
tants of Orchha. 

The district remained under the 
rule of the Peshwas until 1817, 
when their rights passed to the 
P I. Company. Under British 
protection, native Rajas ruled 
unbl their folly and incompetency 
ruined the country, and, when the 
dynasty died out on the death of 
Cangadhar Rao, in 1853, their 
territories lapsed to the British 
Covernment. The Jhansi State, 
With Jalaun and Chanderi districts, 
were then formed into a Superin- 
tendency, while a pension was 
granted to the Rani, or widow, of 
the late Raja Rao. The Ram, 
bakshmi Rai, however, considered 
herself aggrieved, both because she 
was not allowed to adopt an heir, 
and because the slaughter of cattle 
was permitted in the Jhansi 
territory. 

i'he events of 1857, accordingly, 
lound Jhansi ripe for rebellion. 
In May it was known that the 
Iroops were disaffected, and on 
Ihe 5th of June a few men of the 


12th Native Infantry seized the 
fort, contaimng the treasure and 
magazine. Many European ofh 
cers were shot the same day. The 
remainder, who had taken refuge 
in a fort, capitulated a few days 
after, and were massacred with 
their families to the number ot 
sixty-six persons, in spite of a 
promise of protection sworn on the 
Koran and Ganges water. The 
Rani then attempted to seize the 
supreme authority, but the usual 
anarchic quarrels arose between 
the rebels, during which the 
Orchha leaders laid siege to 
Jhansi and plundered the country 
mercilessly. On the 4th of April 
1858 the fort and town were cap- 
tured by Sir Hugh Rose, who 
marched on to Kalpi without being 
able to leave a garrison at Jhansi. 
After his departure the rebelhon 
broke out airesh, only the Gur- 
sarai Chieftain in the N. remaining 
faithful to the British cause. On 
the nth August a Hying column 
under Colonel Liddell cleared out 
the rebels from Mau (39 m. from 
Jhansi), and, after a senes of sharp 
contests with various guerilla 
leaders, the work ol reorganisation 
was fairly set on foot in November. 
The Rani herself had previously 
fled with Tantia Topi, and finallv 
fell in a battle at tlie foot of the 
rock fortress of Gwahor. 

The siege of Jhansi occupied Sir 
Hugh Rose's army from 21st 
March tiU 4th Apnl 1858, and cost 
343 in killed and wounded, of 
whom 36 were otfleers. The en- 
gineers lost four officers leading the 
attacking parties at the flnal 
escalade. Col. Malleson, quoting 
Sir Hugh Rose, gives the following 
description of Jhansi at the time 
of the investment ; — 

“ The great strength of the Fort 
of Jhansi, natural as well as arti- 
ficial, and its extent, entitle it to a 
place among fortresses. It stands 
on an elevated rock, rising out of 
a plain, and commands the city 
and surrounding country. It is 
built of excellent and most massive 



ROUTE 9. JHANSI TO KALPI 


India 


146 


masonry. The fort is difhcult to 
breach, because composed of 
granite ; its walls vary in thick- 
ness from 16 tt. to 20 ft. It has 
extensive and elaborate outworks 
of the same solid construction, 
with front and flanking embra- 
sures for artillery-fire, and loop- 
holes, of which in some places 
there were five tiers, for musketry. 
On one tower, called the ‘ white 
turret,’ since raised in height, 
waved in proud defiance the stan- 
dard of the high-spirited Rani. 
The fortress is surrounded on all 
sides by the city of Jhansi, the W. 
and part of the S. face excepted. 
The steepness of the rock protects 
the W. ; the fortified city wall 
springs from the centre of its S. 
lace, and ends in a high mound or 
mamelon, which protects by a 
flanking fire its S. face. The 
mound was fortified by a strong 
circular bastion lor five guns, 
round part ol which was drawn a 
ditch, 12 ft deep and 15 ft. broad, 
of solid masonry. 

“The city of Jhansi is about 
4I m. in circumference, and is 
surrounded by a fortified and 
massive wall, from 6 It to 12 ft. 
thick, and varying in height from 
18 ft to 30 ft., with numerous flank- 
ing bastions armed as batteries, 
with ordnance and loopholes, and 
with a banquette for infantry. 
The town and fortress were gar- 
risoned by 11,000 men, composed 
of rebel sepoys, foreign mercen- 
aries, and local levies, and they 
were led by a woman - who believed 
her cause to be just.” 

The fort has been modernised 
and supphed with strong arma- 
ment. The views from the top 
and from the road round the ram- 
parts are very extensive. A crag 
to the N.E. of the railw*ay station, 
still called “ Retribution Hill,” 
marks the last stand made by the 
mutineers. 

The old civil station (Jfiansi 
Nauabad) attached to Jhansi 
before 1861 remains the head- 
quarters of the district. 


(i) Jhansi to Cawnpove direct, 
137m. J hansi to Ca wnpore 
via Hamirpur is 197 m. by 
road. 

Between Jhansi and Cawnpore 
the country abounds in black 
buck. Numerous old fortified 
villages are seen from the rail- 
way train. 

309 m. from Itarsi is Oral station 
fR., D.B , food available). A 
thriving place of 9151 inhabitants, 
and tile headquarters of the Jalaun 
district. 

330 m. from Itarsi is Kalpi 
station (D.B. 2J m. distant. Per- 
mission to occupy has to be 
obtained from the District En- 
gineer, P.W.D., Oral, and visitors 
liaise to arrange for their food and 
servants). The town is situated 
amongst deep rugged ravines on 
the right bank of the J umna, which 
is here crossed by a fine iron girder 
bridge of ten spans of 250 ft. The 
piers are about 60 ft. in height, built 
on wells sunk 100 ft. below low 
water level. Population 10,568. 

Tradition says that the town 
was founded by Basdeo or Vasu- 
deva, who ruled at Kamba from 
330 to 400 A.D. During the Mug- 
hal period Kalpi played so large a 
part in the annals of this part of 
India that it would be impossible 
to detail its history at length. 
After the Mahrattas interfered in 
the affairs of Bundelkhand the 
headquarters of their Government 
J were fixed at Kalpi, At the time 
I of the British occupation of Bun- 
I delkhand, in 1803, Nana Gobind 
Rao seized upon the town. The 
British besieged it in December of 
that year, and, after a few hours’ 

I resistance, it surrendered. Kalpi 
I was then included in the territory 
granted to Raja Himmat Bahadur, 

I on whose death, in 1804, it once 
' more lapsed to Government. It 
was next handed over to Gobind 
Rao, who exchanged it two years 
, later for villages farther to the W. 

I Since that time Kalpi has re- 



ROUTE g. DATIA — GWALIOR 


147 


nidined a British possession. Alter 
the capture of Jhansi and the rout 
ol the mutineers at Kunch, they 
fell back on Kalpi, which through- 
out the previous operations they 
had made their principal arsenal. 
Here, on 22nd May 1858, Sir Hugh 
Rose (Lord Strathnairn) again 
defeated a force of about 12,000 
under the Rani of Jhansi, the Kao 
Sahib, and the Nawab of Banda, 
who then fled to Gwalior. 

Kalpi was formerly a place of 
far greater importance than at the 
present day. The E.I. Company 
made it one of their principal 
'itations for providing their com- 
mercial investments. The Wes- 
tern outskirts of the town contain 
a large number of ruins, notably 
the tomb called the 84 Domes, and 
tuelve other handsome rnauso- 
The buildings of the old 
I omniercial agency crown high 
f<round near the river bank, but 
are now deserted. A ruined tort, 
"'itiidted on the steep bank ol 
the Jumna above the town, over- 
hangs the ghat or ferry, which has 
u picturesque temple, and is 
reached by a long tiight of steps. 

375 m. from I tarsi is Cawnpore 
junction station (p. 40O). 

(2) Jhansi to Agra via Datia, 

Gwalior, and Dholpiir, 133 m, 

254 m from Itarsi, 16 m. from 
Jhansi, is Datia station. The 
town has 24,000 inhabitants, and 
IS the residence of the Chief of the 
Hatia State, which contains an 
urea of 836 sq. m. 

It stands on a rocky height sur- 
rounded by a good stone wall, and 

full of picturesque houses and 
puldces. The Raja's present resi- 
fh-nce stands within the town, 
^urrounded by a pretty garden, 
-to the W. of the town, beyond the 
'rails, is a very large palace of 
l^reat architectural beauty, now 
I’ntenanted.^ 

^ Icrgusson's Indian Architecture, 2 k 173. 


, 261 m. Sonagir station. 2 m. oft 

1 and visible from the railway are a 
I number of Jain temples of modern 
I date, forming an extremely pic- 
i turesque group, well worth a visit 

299 m. from Itarsi is Gwalior 
station, 763 m. from Bombay, 
194 m. from Delhi, by the G.I P. 

' Railway (R,, D.B.), the capital of 
I Maharaja Scmdia. The present 
Chief is His Highness Maharaja 
I Mukhtar-ul-Mulk, Azim-ul-Ikti- 
i dar, Raft -us- Shan, Wala Shikoh, 

I Mohtasham-i-Dauran, Umdat-ul- 
I Umra, Maharajadhiraj, Hisam-us- 
j Sultanat, Lieutenant-General Sir 
\ Madhava Rao Scindia, Alijah 
j Bahadur, Snnath, Mansur - 1 - 
I Zamaii, Fidwd - i - Hazrat - i - Malik - 
I i - Muazzani, Raft - ud - Darjat - 
I i-Inghstan, G.C.S.I., G.C.V.O., 

j G.C.P.M., A.D.C. to His Majest}^ 
j the King-Emperor, LL.D. (Cam- 
bridge and Edin.), and D.C.L. 
(Oxford). The area of the Gwa- 
lior State IS 23,862 sq. m., the pop- 
ulation 3,236,753, and the revenue 
164 lakhs. The place is famous 
for its fort, one of the most ancient 
and renowned strongholds in 
India. Population of Lashkar, 
Gwalior, and Morar, iu<'>,(>So 
! For many years a strong brigade 
; of British troops was maintained 
j at Moray, a few m. E. of the fort, 
j The latter was garrisoned by 
i British troops from 1858 to 1886, 
j when it was restored to the Maha- 
t raja’s custody, and with Morar 
1 was made over to him m exchange 
{ for Jhansi. 


i History. 

1 

General Cunningham, in vol 2. 

I of the Reports of the ArchcBological 
\ Survey, gives a most valuable 
{ account of Gwalior. It is believed 
to have been founded in the 6th 
century a.d., when Toramana, a 
tributary Prince under the Guptas, 
rebelled, and became sovereign of 
all the territory between the 
Jumna and Narbada. In the 



ROUTE 9. ITARSI JUNCTION TO GWALIOR 


India 


reign of his sou the Sun lemple 
was built and the Suraj Kund 
excavated ; and Gwalior was 
founded by Suraj Sen, a Kach- 
hwaha Chief, who was a leper, and 
coming when hunting to the 
Gopagiri Hill, on which the fort 
stands, received a drink of water 
from the hermit Gwalipa, which 
cured him of his leprosy. Suraj 
Sen also received a new name, 
Suhan Pal, from the hermit, with 
a promise that liis descendants 
should reign as long as they 
were called Pal ; so eighty-three 
reigned, but the eighty-fourth was 
called Tej Karn, and, having dis- 
carded the name of Pal, lost his 
kingdom. 

This Kachhwaha dynasty was 
succeeded by seven Parihara 
Princes, who ruled for 103 years— 
till 1232 A.D., when Gwalior was 
taken by Altamsh in the 21st 
year of the reign of Sarang 
Deo. 

The capture of Gwahor by 
Altamsh was commemorated in an 
inscription placed over the gate 
of the Arwahi, and the Emperor 
Babar states that he saw it, and 
the date was 630 a.h. — 1232 a.d. 
From 1232 onwards the Emperors 
of Delhi used Gwalior as a State 
prison. In 1375 a.d. the Tomar 
Chief, Bir Singh Deo, declared 
himself independent, and founded 
the Tomar dynasty of Gwalior. 

Early in the 15th century the 
Gwalior Chiefs paid tribute to 
Khizr Khan of Delhi, and in 1424 
Gwahor, being besieged by Hosh- 
ang Shah of Malwa, was dehvered 
by Mubarak Shah of Delhi. In 
1425 Dongar Singh commenced the 
great rock sculptures at Gwalior, 
and his son Kirti Singh, 1454, com- 
pleted them. In 1465 Husain 
Shah, the Sharki king of Jaunpur. 
besieged Gwahor, and obliged it to 
pay tribute. Man Singh acknow- 
ledged the supremacy of Bahlol 
Lodi and of Sikandar Lodi of 
Delhi ; the latter in 1505 marched 
against Gwalior, but fell into an 
ambuscade, and was repulsed with 


great loss, in 150b, however, he 
captured Himmatgarh, but passed 
by Gwalior, which he despaired of 
reducing. In 1517 he made great 
preparations at Agra for the con- 
: quest of Gwalior, but died before 
he could accomphsh his purpose. 
Ibrahim Lodi sent an army of 
30,000 horse, 300 elephants, and 
other troops, against Gwahor, and 
I a few days after they reached that 
i place Man Singh died. He was the 
greatest of the Tomar Princes of 
I Gwahor, and constructed many 
I useful works, amongst others the 
great tank to the N.W. of Gwahor, 
called the MoH JhiL His palace 
in the fort is the noblest specimen 
j of Hindu domestic architecture in 
I K- India. After Man Singh’s death 
] his son Vikramaditya sustained 
I the siege for a year, but at last 
surrendered, and was sent to Agra, 
where he became the fnend of the 
Emperor, and died fighting at his 
; side against Babar on the field 
I of Panipat in 1526 a d. His 
I widows, according to tradition, 
i presented the Koh-i-nur to Prince 
I Humayun in return for the pro- 
I tection accorded by him to 
I them 

I Babar sent Rahimdad with an 
j army to Gwahor, which he took 
j by a stratagem, suggested by the 
I holy Muhammad Ghaus. In 
' 1542 Abul- Kasim, Governor of 
I Gwalior, surrendered his fortress 
i to Sher Shah. In 1545 Sahm, son 
1 of Sher, brought his treasure from 
j Chunar to Gwalior, and m 1553 
died at the latter place. Rana 
Sah, son of Vikram, tried to seize 
Gwahor, and fought a great battle 
there, which lasted for three days, 
with Akbar’s troops, but was de- 
I lea ted, and the fortress remained 
j in the hands of the Mughals till 
the fall of their power. In 1761 
Gwahor was taken by Bhim Singh, 
the Jat Rana of Gohad, and in 
1779 captured by Major Popham 
from the Mahrattas, into whose 
hands it had fallen, and restored 
to the Rana of Gohad. It 
wd-, again taken by the Mah- 



ROUTE 9, GWALIOR 


149 


rattas under Mahdaji Scindia^ in 
178-1, and once more captured bv 
the English under General White 
m 1803, and restored to the Mah- 
rattas in 1805. In 1844, after the 
battles of Maharajpur and Pan- 
mar, it was a third time occupied 
by the British. 

At the time of the Mutiny 
Maharaja Scindia had, besides 
10,000 troops of his own, a Contin- 
gent consisting of two regiments 
of Irregular Cavalry— 1 1 58 men of 
all ranks — seven regiments of 
Infantry — aggregating 6412 men 
— and 26 guns, vdth 748 Artillery- 
men. This force was officered 
by Enghshmen, and the men 
were thoroughly drilled and dis- 
ciplined. and were, in fact, ex- 
cellent soldiers, as they proved 
by defeating and almost driving 
into the river General Windham's 
brigade at Cawnpore. 

The Maharaja and his Mims ter. 
Sir Dinkar Rao, remained loyal to 
their fealty ; but the Contingent 
troops mutinied on Sunday, 14th 
June, and murdered their English 
officers and a number of women 
and children ; and those who 
escaped, or had previously taken 
refuge in the Maharaja's palace, 
bad to be removed to Dholpur, 
and thence to Agra. After this 
I rwaiior remained quiet for a time ; 
hut later the Contingent troops 
joined Tantia Topi at Cawnpore. 

On the 22nd May 1858 an im- 
portant battle was fought in front 
of Kalpi, in which the mutineers, 
led by Tantfa Topi and the Rani 
of Jhansi, were severely defeated 
by Sir Hugh Rose. They re- 
treated in the direction of Gwalior, 
and on the ist June Scindia, with 
all his army, moved out from 
Cwalior to meet them. The en- 
?agement took place about 2 m. E 
of Mora^. Colonel MaUeson thus : 
'lescribes it : “ Scindia had with 
bim 6000 infantry, about 1500 

f^D ^ Prince was wounded at the Battle 
" "^nipat(p. 284). where one of his brothers 

Idl-d. T’ao more brother^ fell in other 

engagements. 


cavalry, his own bodyguard 600 
strong, and eight guns, ranged in 
three divisions — his guns centre. 
About 7 o'clock in the morning 
the rebels advanced. As they 
approached, Scindia's eight guns 
opened on them. But the smoke 
^ of the discharge had scarcely dis- 
appeared when the rebel skir- 
mishers closed to their flanks, 
and 2000 horsemen, charging 
at a gallop, carried the guns. 
Simultaneously with their charge 
Scindia's infantry and cavalr)'-, 
his bodj^guard alone excepted, 
either joined the rebels or took 
up a position indicative of their 
intention not to fight. . . . The 
rebels then attacked the body- 
guard, who defended themselves 
bravely, but the contest was too 
unequal, and Scindia was com- 
pelled to fly, accompanied by a 
very few of the survivors. He 
did not draw rein till he reached 
Agra." 

The Rani thereupon seized the 
fort of Gwalior, and proclaimed 
the Nana as Peshwa. On hearing 
of this Sir Hugh Rose immediately 
marched upon Gwalior. As he 
neared it he was joined by Sir 
Robert Napier (Lord Napier of 
Magdala), who took command of 
the 2nd Brigade, and by the 
Hyderabad troops. On i6th June 
he came into touch with the rebels 
at Bahadurpur, near Morar. In 
spite of the long and fatiguing 
march which his force had en- 
dured, Sir Hugh attacked the 
enemy at once, and drove them 
from their position. 

" The main body of the enemy, 
driven through the cantonments, 
fell back on a dry nlilla with high 
banks, running round a village 
which they had also occupied. 
Here they maintained a desperate 
hand - to - hand struggle with the 
British. The 71st Highlanders 
suffered severely, Lieutenant 
Neave, whilst leading his men, 
falling mortally wounded ; nor 
was it till the nulla was nearly 
choked with dead that the village 



150 


ROUTE 9. ITARSI JUNCTION TO GWALIOR 


India 


was carried. The victory was 
completed by a successful pursuit 
and slaughter of the rebels by the 
14th Light Dragoons/' 

Early next morning (the 17th 
of June) Brigadier- General Smith, 
marching up from Jhansi, reached 
Kotah-ki-sarai, 5 m. to the S.E. 
of Gwalior, without opposition. 
There he discovered the enemy in 
great force, and showing a dis- 
position to attack. “ Recon- 
noitring the ground in front of 
him, he found it very difficult, 
intersected with nullas and im- 
practicable for cavalry. He dis- 
covered, moreover, that the 
enemy's guns were in position 
about 1500 yds. from Kotah-ki- 
sarai, and that their line lay under 
the hills, crossing the road to 
Gwalior. Notwithstanding this 
General Sn ith determined to 
attack. First he sent his horse 
artillery to the front, and silenced 
the enemy's guns, which Umbered 
up and retired. He then sent his 
infantry across the broken ground, 
under the command of Colonel 
Raines of the 95th. Raines led 
his men, covered by skirmishers, 
to a point about 50 yds. from the 
enemy’s works, when the skir- 
mishers made a rush, the rebels 
falling back as they did so. Raines 
then found himself stopped by a 
(Jeep ditch with 4 ft. of water,” 
but, surmounting the difficulty, he 
gained the abandoned entrench- 
ment. “ Whilst he was continu- 
ing his advance across the broken 
and hilly ground. General Smith 
moved his cavalry across the river 
Umrah, close to Kotah-ki-sarai. 
They had hardly crossed when 
they came under fire of a battery 
which till then had escaped notice. 
At the same time a body of the 
enemy threatened the baggage 
at Kotah - Id - sarai. Matters 
now became serious. But General 
Smith sent back detachments 
to defend the baggage and rear, 
and pushed forward. The road, 
before debouching from the hills 
between his position and Gwalior, 


ran for several hundred yards 
through a defile along which a 
canal had been excavated. It 
was while his troops were pressing 
through this defile that the prin- 
cipal fighting took place. Having 
gained the farther end of the defile, 
where he joined Colonel Raines, 
General Smith halted the infantry 
to guard it, and ordered a cavalry 
[ charge. This was most gallantly 
executed by a squadron of the 8th 
Hussars, led by Colonel Hicks and 
Captain Heneage. The rebels, 
horse and foot, gave way before 
them. The Hussars captured two 
guns, and, continuing the pursuit 
I through Scindia’s cantonment, 
had for a moment the rebel camp 
in their possession. 

” Amongst the fugitives in the 
rebel ranks was the resolute 
woman who, alike in council and 
; on the field, was the soul of the 
j conspirators. Clad in the attire of 
I a man and mounted on horseback, 
j the Rani of Jhansi might have 
been seen animating her troops 
throughout the day. When inch 
by inch the British troops pressed 
through the pass, and when, reach- 
ing its summit General Smith 
ordered the Hussars to charge, 

I the Rani of Jhansi boldly fronted 
’ the British horsemen. When her 
, comrades failed her, her horse, in 
j spite of her efiorts, carried her 
along with the others. With them 
she might have escaped, but that 
her horse, crossing the canal near 
the cantonment, stumbled and 
fell. A Hussar, close upon her 
track, ignorant of her sex and 
I her rank, cut her down. She fell 
I to rise no more. That night 
! her devoted followers, determined 
I that the English should not boast 
1 that they had captured her even 
! dead, burned her body.” 
j Following up the operations 
I above described late into the 
’ night of the 19th June, Sir Hugh 
! regained the whole place — Morar, 
j the city, the Lashkar — everything 
but the fort, which was held by a 
few fanatics, who had fired on 



ROUTE 9. 


GWALIOR 


our advancing troops whenever 
they could throughout the day, 
and recommenced the following 
morning 

“ On the morning of the 20th 
Lieutenant Rose, 2 5th Bombay 
Xative Infantr}^ was in command 
with a detachment of his regiment 
at the kotwah, or police-station, 
not far from the main gateway of 
the rock fort. As the guns from 
its ramparts continued to fire. 
Rose proposed to a brother officer. 
Lieutenant Waller, who com- 
manded a small party of the same 
regiment near him, that they 
should attempt to capture the 
fortress with their joint parties, 
urging that, if the risk were great, 
the honour would be still greater. 
Waller cheerfully assented, and the 
two officers set off with their men 
and a blacksmith, whom, not 
unwilling, they had engaged for 
the service. Thev crept up to 
the first gateway unseen. Then 
the blacksmith, a. powerful man, 
iorced it open ; and so with the 
other five gates that opposed their 
I)rogress. By the time the sixth 
gate had been forced the alarm was 
given, and, when the assailants 
reached the archway beyond the 
last gate, they w^ere met by the 
fire of a gun which had been 
brought to bear on them. Da'='h- 
mg onwards, unscathed by the 
fire, they w^ere speedily engaged in 
a hand-to-hand contest with the 
garrison. The fight w^as desper- 
ate, and many men fell on both 
sides. The gallantry of Rose and 
Waller and their men carried all 
before them. Rose especially dis- 
tinguished himself. Just in the 
hour of victory, how’ever, as he 
'vas inciting his men to make the 
final charge, w^hich proved suc- 
cessful, a musket w^as fired at him 
from behind the wall. The man 
who had fired the shot, a mutineer 
from Bareilly, then rushed out and 
cut him dowTi. Waller came up 
and despatched the rebel — too 
however, to save his friend 
J^nt the rock fortress w^as gained.” 


151 

The New City, or Lashkar. — 
When Daulat Rao Scindia ob- 
tained possession of Gwahor in 
1794 and 1S05, he pitched his 
camp to the S. of the fort, and a 
new^ city rapidly sprang up, which 
still retains the name of Lashkar 
or the Camp. The Sarafa, or 
Merchants* Quarter, is one of the 
finest streets in India. In the 
Phul Bagh are the Jai Bilas and 
Moil 'Mahal Palaces of Maharaja 
Scindia. In the latter most of the 
State offices are at present located. 
In the centre of Lashkar is the 
Bar ah, or Old Palace, and near it 
are the houses of the chief Sardars 

The later buildings worthy of a 
visit are the Duffer in Sarai, the 
Grand Hotel, the Elgin Chib, the 
Jayajt Rao Memorial Hospttal, and 
the Vtctoria College, Maharaja 
Javaji Raj’s Cenotaph the Elecfnc 
Printing Press, the General Post 
Office, the Theatre Hall, and 
M arket ; the foundation-stone of 
the latter was laid by the Duke of 
Connaught, and it and the elec- 
trical installation w^ere opened by 
King George V. {then Prince of 
Wales) in December 1905. The 
modern Temple was erected by the 
mother of one of the Scindia Chiefs. 

The Old City has been gradually 
decaying, and is now only one- 
sixth as large as the New’- Citv. It 
is a crowded mass of small, flat- 
roofed, stone houses, lying along 
the foot of the N.E. and N. end of 
the rock. Flanking the city to 
the N. stands a curious old Pathan 
archway, the remains of a tomb. 
Outside the gate of the fort is the 
Jami Masjid, with its gilt pin- 
nacled domes and lofty minarets. 
Sir W. Sleeman says (Rambles, i, 
347) : ” It is a very beautiful 

mosque, with one end built by 
Muhammad Khan, in 1665 a.d., ol 
the wffiite sandstone of the rock 
above it. It looks as fresh as if 
it had not been finished a month ” 

On the eastern outskirt of the 
city is the noble tomb of the 
Muhammad Ghaus, a saint vener- 
ated in the time of Babar and 



ROUTE g. TTAR-^r JT;X( riO\ TO rAVALlOR 


Akbcir It IS of stone, and is onr 
ot the best specimens oi ^Vluham- 
niadan architecture^ of the earl's 
Mughal period. It is a square ot 
roo ft with hexagonal towers at 
the four corners, attached at the 
angles instead ol the sides The 
tomb IS a hall 43 ft. sq.. \^^th the 
angles cut otf by pointed archer, 
from which springs a loftv Pa than 
dome. The walls are thick, 

and are surrounded by a ioU}’ 
v'eranda, with square bays in the 
centre of each side, enclosed bv 
stone lattices ot the most intricate 
and elaborate patterns. These 
are protected from the eather b\' 
very bold eaves, supported on long 
^one slabs resting on brackets. 
Ihe dome was once covered with 
blue-glazed tiles. 

Ihe Tomt) of Tansen, a famous 
musician is a small open building 
ez ft. sq., supported on pillars 
round the tombstone, close to the 
S W corner of the large tomb, 
ihe tamarind tree near the gravf 

much visited by musicians as 
the chewing of the leave.s is alleged 
to impart a wonderful sweetness 
to the voice. 

Jo see the ^.walior Fort- au 
ordev u'^ed t» he necessary : it could 
be obtained at the Kesidenev OiliLe 
or from the Gwalior Hotel, where 
arrangements can be made for the 
elephant which the Maharaja 
kmcUy puts at the disposal of 
visitors to meet them at the foot 
ascent to the fort 
great fortress of Gwalior 
says General Cunningham, "’is 
situated OQ a precipitous flat- 
topped, and isolated hill oi ^and- 
stone, which rises 300 ft. above 
the town at the N. end, but only | 
274 tt. at the upper gate of the i 
pnncipal entrance. The hill is ! 
long and narrow; its extreme I 

tV no longer required to vi^it 

M (r .aaur Fun \ i.uo.. -gn th-fr n.vne. 

‘ ■ t',,. cut-, I r',,r( 


India 


i iongth from X to S. is i J m.. while 
: its breadth varies from 600 ft. to 
2800 ft The walls are from 30 ft 
, io 33 ft high, and the rock im- 
, mediately below them is steeply 
I I>iit irregularly scarped all round 
! the hijj ■ 

1 The view from the fort is varied 
f and extent)! ve, but. except during 
1 the rainy season, when the hills 
; are grcc-n, the general appearance 
; of the country is brown and and 
I lo the X . on a clear da\'. mav 
I be seen the gigantic temple of 
I Suhama. about 30 m distant, and 
( still farther in tiie same direction 
I the red hills of Jiliolpur. To the 
' , and within gunshot, lies the 

I long, Mat- topped sandstone hill of 
i Han u man. with a basaltic peak at 
I the N end and a white - washed 
j temple on its slope, whence the 
J hill has its name. Beyond, far as 
} the eye can reach, nothing is seen 
1 but range after range of low sand- 
i stone hills. The conical peak ol 
j the Raipur hill towers over the 
lower ranges in the S., and to the 
h the level plains, dotted with 
villages, lengthen till they pass 
out ot sight. On the plain below 
lies the Old Citv of Gwalior, encii- 
cling the X K. end of the fortress, 
and to the S , upwards of i ni 
distant, is the X'ew Citv of Lashka } . 

ihe main entrance to the fort 
on the X.E. The ascent was lor- 
mcrly by many flights of broad 
'^teps alternating with pieces 
paved level road, but these lia\e 
been removed, and there is now a 
continuous road The entrance is 
protected by six Gates which, 
beginnin.g fre n below, are — 
ihe ’Ahungiri Gate, built by 
MuTamad Khan, GovTTUor 
Gwalior, in 1660, and called after 
Aurangzeb, whose title as Em- 
peror was 'Alamgir. It is quite 
plain, and the inscription is 
obliterated. Inside is a small 
courtyard and an open hall in 
which the Muhammadan Go\^- 
ernors sat to dispense justice. 

The Badalgarh or Hindola Gate 
ha-^ name from the outwork 






153 


ROUTE 0 GWALIOR FORT 


Bddalgarh, which was called from 
Badal Singh, the uncle of Man 
'^mgh. This gate is also called 
Hindola, from hindol, " a swing/’ 
which existed outside. It is a fine 
specimen of Hindu architecture. 
An inscription on an iron plate 
records its restoration by the 
Governor Saiyad ’Alam in 1648 

Close under the rock to the right 
IS the stately Gujari Palace, built 
for the Queen of Man Singh. It 
measures 300 ft. by 230 ft., and is 
Uvu storeys high. It is built of 
hewn stone, and was once a very 
tine building. 

The Bhairon, or Bansur Gate, 
wdb the work of one of the earliest 
Kachhwaha Rajas. It was called 
Bansur, from bansur, “archer’' — 
literally a “bamboo - splitter," 
from the guard which had the 
charge of it. It has now been 
removed 

The Ganesh Gate was built by 
Bongar Singh, who reigned 1424 
to 1454. Outside is a small out- 
work called Kahutar Khana, or 
“ pigeon-house," in which is a 
tank called Nur Sagar, 60 ft. by 
39 tt and 25 ft. deep Here, too, 
is a Hindu temple sacred to the 
hermit Gwalipa, from whom the 
tort had its name. It is a small, 
square, open pavilion, with a 
cupola on four pillars. There is 
•dso a small mosque with a chrono- 
i^ram giving a date corresponding 
to 1664 A.D. 

Before reaching the Lakshman 
Gate is a temple hevrn out of the 
solid rock and called Chatavhhitj- 
^‘iiandir, “ shrine of the tour- 
armed," sacred to Vishnu, inside 
^'hich, on the left, is a long inscrip- 
tion, dated Sambat 933 = 876 a.d. 

IS 12 ft. sq., with a portico 
‘It front 10 ft by 9 ft , supported 
iiy four pillars. There is a tank 
here, and opposite to it the tomb 

Taj Nizam, a noble of the Court 
‘^f Ibrahim Lodi, who was killed 
‘n assaulting this gate in 151S a.d 
Adjoining is an awkward flight of 
^leps leading to the North-Eastern 
Rroiip of Jain Statues in the dill 


under the Muhammadan palaces. 
The sculptures are small, and 
unaccompanied by inscnptions, 
and are, therefore, ummportant ; 
some of the caves are large. 
Farther S., on the face of the rock, 
are cardngs of Mahadeo and his 
consort and about fifty lingams. 
There vcas also a colossal group of 
the Boar incarnation, 15^ ft, high, 
which was one of the oldest sculp- 
tures in Gwalior ; but it is now 
quite defaced. A figure of an 
elephant over the statue has been 
cut away to form a canopy. 

The Hathiya Paur, or Elephant 
Gate, was built by Man Singh, and 
forms part of his palace. Here 
was the carving of an elephant, 
vhich Babar and Abul - Fazl 
praised. Inside the Hathiya Paur 
and under the S. end of the Palace 
of Man Singh is the Haw a Gate ; 
and- the cool draught of air met 
through the passage here after the 
long hot ascent in the morning 
will be found to justify the 
name. 

Turning to the right on reaching 
the level of the fort, the five 
palaces under which the ascent has 
passed may be first visited. The 
first of these is the Han Singh 
Palace (1486-1516, repaired in 
1881), also called the Chit Mandir, 
or F'ainted Palace, as “ the walls 
are covered vdth a profusion of 
coloured tiles — bands of mosaic 
candelabra, Brahmani ducks, ele- 
phants, and peacocks — enamelled 
blue, green, and gold, giving to this 
massive w^all an unsurpassed 
charm and elegance. The tiles 
of the great windowdess S. wall 
possess a brightness and dehcacy 
of tint unblemished by the four 
centuries which they have 
weathered. Nowhere do I re- 
member any architectural design 
capable of imparting similar light- 
ness to a simple massive wall " 
(Rousselet). The palace was 
greatly admired by the Emperor 
Babar also. It is t-wo storeys high, 
with two storeys of underground 
apartments, now uninhabitable 



ROUTE Q. ITARSI JUNCTION TO GWALIOR 


India 


156 


which are accompanied by six in- 
scriptions, dated Sainbat 1497, 
1510 -1440 A.D. and 1453, during 
the sway of the Tomar Rajas. 
The chief statues are : No 17, a 
colossal figure of Adinath, the 
first J ain pontiff, who is known by 
the symbol of a bull on the pedes- 
tal. This has a long inscription, 
dated 1440 a.d., in the reign of 
Dongar Singh. The largest figure 
of this group, and of all the 
Gwahor sculptures, is the colossus, 
No. 20, which is 37 ft. high, or 
six and a half times the length ot 
the foot, which is just 9 ft. The 
extreme W. figure of this group, 
No. 22, is a seated colossus 
upwards of 30 ft. high, of Nem- 
nath, twenty-second Jam pontiff, 
known by a shell on the pedes- 
tal. 

" The South-W esiern group, just 
outside the Arwahi wall, consists of 
five principal Jain figures. No. 2 
IS a sleeping female 8 ft. long, Udng 
on her side, with her head to the S. 
and lace to the W. No 3 is a 
\ seated group of a male and female 
with a child, who are Siddhartha 
and Trisala, the reputed father and 
mother of the infant Mahavira, 
the last of the twenty-four Jam 
pontiffs. The sleeping female also 
IS probably intended for Trisala.’' 
S. of this group is the Ghargharg 
Gate, at which General \Yhite's 
assault of the fortress was made. 

If it is desired to proceed from 
here to the Jain sculptures on the 
S E. face of the fortress, the car- 
riage should be sent round to this 
point from the N.E. entrance. It 
is quite impossible, however, to 
see all the interesting sights of the 
Gwahor fort on a single visit, and 
each visitor must decide for him- 
self what he will see and how’ he 
will see it. 

The road from the Arwahi ravine 
to the Lashkar, and round to' the 
nearest point to the South-Eastern 
group which a carriage can reach, 
is fair ; but that N. to the N.W. 
group of statues is bad, and they 
had better be visited by passing 


round the N. side of the city. The 
figures there are, however, insigm- 
ficant, and few will care to visit 
them. The South-Eastern group 
is the most picturesquely situated 
of all, with trees and undergrowdh 
adjoining it below ; it is also the 
largest and most important group, 
as there are eighteen colossal 
statues from 20 ft. to 30 ft. high, 
and as many more from 8 ft. to 
13 ft., w^hich occupy the whole 
face of the cliff for upwards of 
h m. They are all of date 1468- 
1473 A.D., and are the latest of 
such works in India. In many 
cases a screen-wall has been left in 
front of the figure as high up as 
its \vaist. A few caves are occu- 
pied by mendicant Bairagis, and 
cannot always be visited. The 
table on opposite page gives 
details of each statue 

From Gw*alior three light lines 
of State Railway run, S.W. to Sipn 
(74 m.), not far from which, in the 
Narwar jungle, the great rebel 
leader, Tantia Topi, w^as betrayed 
and captured on 7th April 1839. 
N.Il. to Bhind (33 m.) and, W. 
by S. to Sheopur, the total length 
of the mileage being 249.96. 

336 m. About 4 m. S. of Dhol- 
pur there is a very fine bridge over 
the Chambal, built of the famous 
red sandstone ot Dholpur, a ridge 
of which, from 560 ft. to 1074 ft 
above sea-level, runs for 60 m. 
through the territory, and has 
many quarries. The river Cham- 
bal is bordered everywhere by a 
labynnth of ravines, some of which 
are 90 ft. deep and extend to a 
distance of from 2 m to 4 m. from 
the river banks. The floods of 
the river are very remarkable. The 
highest recorded flood above 
summer level rose no less than 
97 ft. 

340 m. Dholpur station (R.), the 
chief towm of the Native State of 
that name. In 163S Aurang^eb* 
defeated his elder brother l3ara 



ROUTE 9. 


DHOLPUR 


157 


Shikoh at Ran - ka - chabutra, 
j m. E. of Dholpur, and in 
1707 Aurangzeb’s sons, Azim and 
ilirazzim, contending for the 
crown, fought a great battle at the 
Milage of Barehta, near Dholpur, 
the former being killed, and the 
latter becoming Emperor, with 
the title of Bahadur Shah The 
palace of Dholpur is a moderately 
iundsome building. 


Kirat Singh in the early part of the 
19th century ; but now, being 
neglected, it is crumbling away. 
(2) The fort of Bari, which was 
built by the Ghon Emperor Firoz 
Shah in 1286 a.d. It has been 
rebuilt from time to time, and is 
now used as headquarters of the 
Bari TahsiL (3) Khanpur Mahal, 
w'hich is situated some 3 m. to the 
S. of Bari, and consists of a long 


Caves. 

Sculptures. 

No. 

Front depth and 
height. 

Names. 

Position. 

Height. 

Symbol. 


Feet. 



Feet 


1 

23X21 X27 

— 

— 

30 

— 

a 

lOX loX 10 

— 

— 


— 

1 ^ 

I5X 12X17 

Adinach 

Standing 

7 

Bull 

1 


4 Olliers 

— 

— 

— 

! i 

15X 14 X 16 

Adinath 

— 

14 

Wheel 



Xeninath 

— 


Shell 

\ 5 



.Adinath 

— 

— 

BuU 

6 

26X 12 X 16 

Supadma 

Sitting 

15 

Lotus 

7 

15 X 10 X 20 

— 

Standing 

20 

— 

8 

21 X 10X20 

Adinath 

Sitting 

6 

— 

! ^ 

i6x 7X28 

iMale Figure 

Standing 

21 

— 


10 X 7X15 

Female 

Lying 

— 

— 



Chandra Prabha 

Standing 

12 

— 



2 others 

— 

12 

— 

1 

I 3 X 8X25 

Chandra Prabha 

Sitting 

21 

Crescent 

17 

31 X roX 25 

Sambhunatb 



21 

Horse 

13 

40X10X25 

Nemnath 

Standing 

21 

Shell 



Sambhunatb 

Sitting 

— 

Horse 



iMabavira | 

Standing 

— 

Lion 

14 

X x6 X 32 

Adinath 

Sitting 

20 

Bull 


96 X 16 X 33 

Adinath 

Sitting 

2S 

— 

16 

24 X 22 X 34 

— 

— 

30 

— 

17 

80X 8X30 

Kantauath 

Standing 

26 

Goat 



Shantanath 

Sitting 

26 

Antelope 



Adinath 

Sitting 

26 

Wheel 



And 4 others 

^ — 

i 26 

— 

1 :;S 

*0X30 

— 

Standing 

26 

— 

1 >9 

i6x 10X30 

— 

! 

26 

— 

! 90 

32 X 8 X 20 

Adinath 

— 

8 

Wheel 

1 « 

27X35X 15 

— 

— 


_ 


Among other objects ot archaeo- , 
•ogical interest in Dholpur State j 
are : — (i) Shergarh fort, which is 
■supposed to have been built some ! 
^000 years ago by Raja Maldeo. 
ft ^vas repaired and rebuilt by 
several Rajas in the later genera- 
tions. In 1540 Sher Shah, of the j 
Sur dynasty, who drove Humayun I 
^ut of India, restored it and gave i 
it its present name of Shergarh It j 
'vas lastly used by INIaharaja Rana ! 


and picturesque series of pavilions, 
the principal of which are enclosed 
by a wall. The Mahal was built 
for the Emperor Shah Jahan by 
Safi Khan Aziz Khan, a local 
Mansabdar. The palace was 
never occupied, and gradually fell 
to pieces. An attempt has been 
made by the Dholpur Darbar to 
repair and renovate some pa- 
vilions. Just below the palace i.s a 
large tank — an extensive sheet of 



l6o ROUTE 9. ITARSI JUNCTION TO JHANSl AXD MAXIKPUR India 


at JaiLpui by permission oi tiie 
Collector of Hamirpur. 


86 m. from Jhansi is Maiioba. 
(District Board and Survey Bung- 
alows can be used with permission 
of the Collector of Hamirpur.) 

Mahoba is believed to have 
existed from the most remote times 
and to have borne different names 
m the successive cycles through 
which the world has passed. Its 
name in the present evil age Kala- 
Yug is Mahoba, said to be derived 
from a great sacrifice (Mahot-Sava) 
performed by its reputed founder, 
Chandra Varma, theChandel Raja, 
about 800 A.D. The town stands 
on the edge of Madan Sagar lake, 
named after the great Chief Madana 
Varma. There are three distinct 
portions of the town : one, the old 
fort, N. of a low hill; one, the 
inner fort, on the top of the hill ; 
and one, the Dariba, or “ pan 
shop, on the S. 

Architectural antiquities of the 
Chandel period abound throughout 
the neighbourhood. The Ram 
Kund marks the place where Chan- 
dra Varma, founder of the dynast}', 
died ; and the tank is believed to 
be a reservoir into which the united 
waters of all holy streams pour 
themselves. The fort, now almost 
entirely in rums, commands a 
beautiful view over the hills and 
lakes. The temple of Mania Deva, 
partially renovated, has in front of 
its entrance a stone pillar inscribed 
to Madana Varma. Outside this 
temple is a stone pillar known as 
the ‘ ‘ Dewal dip, " or “ Alha ki Gilli, ’ ' 
the staff off Alha. Passing further 
along we come to the dargah oi 
Pir Slubarak Shah : this is built 
entirely of Hindu materials. Ot 
the lakes, confined by magnificent 
masonry dams, two have greatly 
silted up, but the Kirat and Madan 
Sugars, works of the nth and 12th 
centuries, still remain deep and 
clear sheets of water. The shores 
of the lakes and the islands in their 


midst are thickly covered with 
ruined temples, monstrous figures 
carved out of the solid rock, pillars, 
broken sculpture and other early 
remains, while on the hills above 
stand the summer-houses of the 
early Rajas, and shrines overhang 
the edge. Rebcs of Jam temples 
and Buddhist inscriptions also 
occur. The existing monuments 
of Muhammadan Mate include the 
tomb of Jalhan Khan, constructed 
from the fragments of a Saivite 
temple, and a mosque, also built 
of Chandel materials. Besides the 
Hindu-Muhammadan remains in 
the town there are a number of 
broken Jain statues lying about, 
indicating there must have been a 
number of Jain temples in the 
place. Buddhist statues are also 
found. On a hill adjoining the 
S.E. bank of Madan Sagar there 
are twenty-four rock-hewn images 
of the " Tirthankaras," dated 
Sambat 1206 (1149 a.d.) 

Mahoba has been fixed upon as 
the new headquarters of the Ham- 
irpur District, and will then be a 
town of considerable importance. 
The motor road from Jhansi 
through Nowgong (65 m.) skirts 
Mahoba (102 m.)— no European 
shops or supplies — and reaches 
Banda at 132 m. 

A railway runs through the E. 
portion of Hamirpur District from 
Banda to Cawnpore with stations 
m the District at Maudaha and 
Sumerpur, and Jumna bank. 
There are no hotels in the District. 
A new tank of about the size of 
Belatal has been constructed in 
1914, called Majhgawan Tank/' 
some 6 m. S. of Belatal. This tank 
irrigates the S.W. portion of Kul- 
pahar tahsil. No hotels in Hamir- 
pur District ; no European supplies, 
though at a pinch such could be 
obtained from the Joint Magis- 
trate or the European community 
at Mahoba. 


Khajraho (Chhatarpur State, 
Centri India) is about 60. m. 



ROUTE g. KHATRAHO — BANDA— K AkWI TARA HW AN lOI 


from Harpalpur (GJ,P. Railway) 
vh: Xowgong and Chhatarpur, and 
about 36 m. from Mahoba. There 
IS a good metalled road from 
Harpalpur upf to Khajraho ; but 
the road from Mahoba is partly 
unmetailed. Bazar tongas are 
available from Harpalpur, Now- 
gong, and Chhatarpur at about 
Ks.15, Rs.io, and Rs.y respec- 
tively, but only country-carts can 
be had from Alahoba for Rs,3 to 
Rs, 4. It was formerly the capital 
of the old kingdom of Jahoti, 
which practically corresponds with 
the modern Bundelkhand. Its 
present importance lies in its 
magnificent series of beautiful 
temples, which are probably the 
best of their type in Northern 
India. Hiuen Tsang mentions it 
m the 7th century, and General 
Cunningham ascribes the graceful 
pillared porch of the Ghantai 
Temple to the same period. A 
high mound probably covers the 
rums of a Buddhist monastery. 
There are thirty temples ^ in the 
gioup which, with the exception of 
two old buildings, were all built be- 
tween 950 and 1050 A.D. Several 
of these have lately been repaired 
by the State at a cost of about a 
Hkh of rupees, and a museum has 
oeen added to them. In one 
temple alone Cunningham counted 
over 800 statues, half life-size, and 
eight sculptured elephants of like 
proportions. These noble build- 
ings were mainly constructed by 
the Chandel dynasty, who ruled 
here from 870 to 1200 a.d. An 
annual fair and exhibition are also 
held here in March or April. 


tig m. from Jhansi is Banda 
Citation (R., D.B.) (population 

21,061), a municipal town and the 
headquarters of the Banda District. 

branch line of the G I.P. Rail- 
way runs from Banda, through 
Hamirpur to Cawmpore. It stands 

^ Fergusson’s Indian Architecture, 2. 
W 54 > 95-96, 103, 740-743. 


on an undulatmg plain, 1 m.^E. 
of the right bank of the Ken 
river. ‘ ' There is a pontoon bridge 
here in the dry season and a ferry 
in the rains, when special arrange- 
ments must be made fof crossing, 
as the ordinary ferry-boat has 
insufficient accommodation for 
motors. In the dry season the 
approaches on both sides and the 
roadway over the pontoon bridge 
require extremely careful dnving.’" 
[Motor Guide, U.P.). 

The modern town derived its 
importance from the residence of 
the Nawab of Banda, and from its 
position as a cotton mart. Since 
the removal of the Nawab in 185S, 
owing to his disloyalty during the 
Mutiny, the town has dechned. 
There are five Jain temples, some 
of which possess fair architectural 
merit. 

33 ni. S. of Banda, and 24 m. 
S.E. of Atarra station, is the 
famous hill fort of Kalinjar, at 
which the Emperor Sher Shah is 
said to have met his death (1545)- 
It contains many temples and 
antiquities, some dating back to 
the 12th century. It is still a 
favourite resort for pilgrims. It 
is necessary to use an ekka or 
country- cart for the trip, while 
that to the Ajaigarh fort, 16 m. 
farther, can be accomplished only 
on foot or on horseback. There 
are rest-houses at both places. 


162 m. from Jhansi is Karwi 
Tarahwan (population 8,031). In 
1805 the town formed a Canton- 
ment for British troops, and in 
1829 it became the principal resi- 
dence of the Peshwa’s representa- 
tive, who hved in almost regal 
state, and built several beautiful 
temples and wells. Numerous 
traders from the Deccan were thus 
attracted to Karwi. During the 
Mutiny Narayan Rao assumed the 
government, and retained his 
independence for eight months. 
The accumulations of his family 
constituted the great treasure 



I62 


ROUTE IO> BOMBAY TO DELHI 


India 


afterwards so famous as the “ Kir- 
wee and Banda Prize Money.” It 
was kept in a vault of the Bara, a 
large palace. Since the Mutiny 
the prosperity of Karwi also has 
gradually declined. There is a 
fine temple and tank with a 
masonry well attached, known as 
the Ganesh Bagh, built by Vina- 
yak Rao m 1S37. Six m. from 
Karwi IS Chitrakot, a celebrated 
place of pilgrimage where Sita, 
Rama and Laksdman are said to 
have lived after their exile from 
Ajudhia. 

18 1 m. from Jhansi is Manikpur 
junction station of E.I. Railwa^^ 
Jubbulpore branch (see p. 41). 


ROUTE 10- 

BOMBAY to DELHI by Surat, 
Broach, Miyagam, Baroda, and 
thence 

(1) by broad gauge of the B.B. 
and C.I. direct to Delhi (863 
m.) by Ratlam, Nagda, Kotah, 
Bharatpur, and Muttra ; 

(2) To Ahmadahad, and thence 
by metre gauge of the B.B. 
and Cl. to Delhi (849 m.) by 
Mehsana, Palanpnr, Abu Road, 
Marwar junction, Ajmer, Pha- 
lera junction, Jaipur, Bandikni 
junction, Alwar, Rewari, and 
Gurgaon, with excursions by 
road to Mount Abu : and by 
rail to (a) Dabhoi ; (6) Luni 
junction (branch line to 
Hyderabad, Sind), Jodhpur, 
Bikaner, and Phalera junction. 

The journey by the first route is 
the shortest to Delhi, occupying 
27^ hrs. as against 35 hrs. by the 
second route and 27I hrs. by Route 


9, G.I.P. and Midland Railways, 
Fares, Rs.66, 4 as. and Rs.62, 7 as., 
Rs, 33. 3 as. andRs.31, 4 as., Rs.8, 
12 as. and Rs.8, i a. The stations 
in Bombay city, ^here the mail 
trains stop, are Colaba,^ Church 
Gate, and Grant Road, where ample 
time is given. 

9 m. Mahim station, where the 
railway crosses a causeway con- 
necting the island of Bombay 
with the island of Salsette. The 
country is flat and studded with 
villages and cocoanut groves. The 
Mahim hand was constructed 
largely at the expense of the first 
Lady Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy. 

108 m. Daman Road station, 
^ (D.B.). Daman (7 m. W.) is a 
Portuguese settlement subordin- 
■ate to Goa (area 149 sq. m., popu- 
lation 47,320). It was taken by 
the Portuguese in 1531, again in 
1535, and finally in 1559. The 
town (of historic interest) is situated 
on the Daman Ganga river, with 
a bad bar and a roadstead. The 
place in the days of small ships 
had a very considerable trade. 
It has a fort on each bank of the 
river. In the main fort, on the left 
bank, are the ruins of several old 
monasteries and two churches. In 
it are the houses of the Governor 
and his staff and the public offices. 
The smaller fort of St Jerome, 
opposite, is more modern (see 
also p. 489). 

1 14 m. Udvada station. Re- 
markable as containing the oldest 
Parsi sacred fire in India. Some 
believe that the fire kept alive is 
that which was originally brought 
from Persia by the Par sis, and 
first kindled at Diu in 700 a.d. 
The temple in which the fire is 
kept is modern. 

124 m. Baisax station. This 
place is occasionally used as a 

^ It is advisable to secure places in the 
train from the Colaba Terminus. 



ROUTE lO. NAVSARI SURAT 


163 


rest-camp, and near it is the village 
of Tithai, on the sea-coast, where 
many inhabitants of Gujarat 
report in the hot season. There 
are fine sands and a rolling sea, 
though not so fine as at Dahanu 
and Gholvrad (Thana district). 

148 m. Kavsari station (popu- 
lation 17,982). The capital ot 
the Gaekwar’s Southern posses- 
Mons, and the headquarters, from 
the earliest days, of the Parsi 
community. Here the Zoroas- 
tnan Priesthood receive their 
initiation and confirmation. The 
Town Hall is an imposing building. 
A Parsi has established here a 
manufactory of essences and soaps 
on European principles. 

167 m. Surat station ^ (K.). 

The name is derived by Sir Henry 
Elliot and others from Surashtra, 
a name occurring in the Maha- 
l^liaYata, and supposed to refer to 
Gujarat and Kathiawar (part of 
which is still called Sorath), 
hut this derivation has been ques- 
tnjned. There is also a legend of 
^ man named Surat ji. who ceded 
the land on which the castle was 
built But this is probably a 
JRyth About the 12th century 
the Parsis, who were driven from 
Persia 500 years before, and had 
settled in Sanjayi, 70 m. S. of 
^urat, found their way here. 
Amongst Indian cities it is not a 
place of antiquity, but it had a 
Is^rge trade at the end of the 15th 
century, and in the iSth was one 

the most populous and impor- 
tant mercantile cities in India, 
the port being much frequented 
by British and other European 
traders. It is the headquarters of 

Collectorate, is situated on the 
river Tapti, and is surrounded on 
the land side by a wall about m. 
^ circuit, with twelve gates. 
Except the main street, running 
from the station road to the castle, 
frio streets in Surat are narrow 
and tortuous, and some of them 


still bear marks of the great fire 
in 1837, which raged for nearly 
two days, when 9373 houses were 
destroyed and many persons 
perished. Again in 1889 a fire 
broke out, which raged over 
twelve hours, and destroyed 1350 
shops and houses. Besides fires, 
Surat has suffered severely from 
floods, the severest being in 1837, 
the same year as the fire, and in 
1883. In 1896 Xjjrd Elgin in- 
augurated here the Tapti Rail- 
way, a local joint-stock enter- 
prise, to run up the valley of the 
Tapti {see p. 165). 

The population of Surat as late 
as 1797 was estimated at 800,000, 
but this figure is probably enor- 
mously exaggerated. Owing to the 
silting up of the river Tapti and 
the rise of Bombay, Surat declined, 
until in 1841 it had only 80,000 
inhabitants. In 1913 it num- 
bered 114,868. There are three 
mills employing 1600 hands. 

The Portuguese found their way 
to the place soon after their 
arrival in India, and in 1512 
sacked the then open town. On 
the 26th February 1573 it surren- 
dered to Akbar after a siege of 
one month and seventeen days. 
Early in the 17th century the 
Enghsh began to visit it, and in 
1612 the Mughal Emperor sent 
down a far man authorising an 
English Minister to reside at his 
court, and opening to English 
subjects the trade at Surat. In 
1615 Captain Downton, with four 
ships, mounting eighty guns, 
defeated the Portuguese fleet, con- 
sisting of four galleons, three other 
large ships, and sixty smaller 
vessels, mounting in all 134 guns. 
This victory established the repu- 
tation of the English for war and 
their superiority over the Portu- 
guese. The Butch trade with 
Surat commenced in i6i6, and for 
some years the Dutch Factory 
competed successfully with the 
English there. The French Fac- 
tory was not founded till 1668, 
when the agents of the French 



ROUTE lO. BOMBAY TO DELHI 


India 


164 


E.I- Company, which Colbert had ; 
established in 1664, settled at 
Surat. On the 5th January of the ' 
same year (1664) the prosperity of ' 
Surat received a severe blow from 
Sivaji, the founder of the Mah- t 
ratta Empire, who with 4000 horse i 
surprised the city, and plundered i 
it for six days. The defenders of I 
the English Factory, under Sir i 
George Oxenden, who described ' 
the Mahratta leader as “ Sevagye, ! 
ye grand rebell of ye Deccan,'' ! 
showed a bold front throughout, ! 
and recommended Sivaji to “ save I 
the labour of his servants running 
to and fro on messages, and come ■ 
iiimself with all his army,” and ; 
in the end were left imassailed. | 
Their courageous defiance so 
pleased Aurangzeb that he sent ' 
Sir G. Oxenden a robe of honour, , 
and granted the English an exempt 
tion from customs. The walls of ; 
Surat up to this time were of mud, ! 
but they were now ordered to be ■ 
built of brick. In 1687 the seal | 
of Government was transferred ; 
by the EJ. Company to Bombay | 
from Surat, which was again par- t 
tially pillaged by the Mahrattas ' 
in 1670, 1702, and 1706. About , 
this time commenced the disputes 
of the rival London and English ! 
Companies, and on the 19th of ' 
January 1700 Sir Nicholas Waite, | 
Consul for the King and President i 
of the New Company, arrived at J 
Surat. The struggle of the Com- 
panies continued till 1708, when 
they were united. This marked a 
new era for the English at Surat, 
who were fast approaching the , 
period when they were to acquire ; 
political influence in the city, ' 
then the greatest emporium of W. i 
India. The factory of the New ; 
Company is now occupied by i 
the Irish Presbyterian IVIission. ! 

In 1759 the Nawab, by mis- ! 
government and vexatious oppres- ' 
sion of the Company's offlcers, , 
provoked a conflict. The towns- i 
people welcomed the attack, which { 
was delivered near Athwa village, ' 
and resulted in the complete de~ i 


feat of the Nawab's troops. He 
then signed a treaty by which the 
castle and fleet were made over to 
the British for a yearly stipend 
of Rs. 200,000. This arrangement 
was confirmed by the Emperor at 
Delhi, and the British authority 
was firmly established in Surat, 
which was definitely taken over 
in 1800. In 1842 the last titular 
Nawab died, and the flag of 
Delhi was removed from the 
castle. 

The Castle, so prominent m the 
early annals of the British in W. 
India, stands at the point where 
the fine Tapti bridge, built under 
the auspices of Sir Theodore Hope 
(Magistrate- Collector 1867), abuts 
on the banks of the river. The 
castle was built by a Turkish soldier 
about 1546, and is a brick building 
with wails about 8 ft. thick, much 
modernised. There is a good 
view of the city and river from 
the S.W. bastion. Over the E 
gateway is an inscription, and 
adjoining it is the well - kept 
Victoria Garden, of 8 acres. The 
adjoining church was consecrated 
by Bishop Heber. 

The remains of the original l^ng- 
lish Factory are near the w'ay to the 
Katargam Gate, close to the river, 
on the N. side of the city. The 
building is now’ a private dwelhng. 
Near it is the Portuguese Factory, 
where some records are still kept. 
A wooden cross marks the site of 
the church. Close to this are the 
vacant site of the French Lodge 
and the Persian Factory. There 
is a fine view of the town from the 
Clock Totver. 

In the English Cemetery, N. of 
the city, on the Broach Road, is 
(on the right on entering) the 
mausoleum of Sir George Oxenden 
(died 1669), and near it the tomb 
of his brother Christopher, which 
has lost its inscription. There are 
also a number of other large tombs ; 
one is believed to be that of Gerald 
Aungier (died 1677). Tom Coryat 
(died 1617) was not buried in the 
cemetery ; a tomb near Suvali at 



ROUTE ro. SURAT— BROACH 


165 


the mouth of the river, is supposed 
to be his, and is carefully preserved 
b\' Government, but some think 
he was buried close to the city, and 
the tomb has probably been de- 
'troyed by floods. 

The Dutch Cemetery is also 
curious from the great size of the 
monuments. The most striking 
IS that of Baron van Rheede, the 
author of the valuable work 
Hortus Malabaricus, and collector 
of books and curiosities, which he 
^ent to Holland. Near the Dutch 
cemetery is the Armenian ceme- 
tery, with many well-carved stones, 
having inscriptions in the Armenian 
language. All the cemeteries are 
kept m good order at the expense ; 

Gov'ernment. | 

The chief Mosques of Surat are — , 

I. Khwaja Diwan Sahib’s i 
Mosque, built about 1530. He is j 
'^aid to have come to Surat from j 
Bokhara, and to have lived to the [ 
age of ir6, 2 , The Nau Sai'yad i 
Mosque, “ Mosque of the Nine j 
baiyads,” on the W. bank of the 
Gopi Lake. 3. The Saiyad Idrus 
dosque, in Saiyadpura, with a 
aunaret, one of the most conspicu- 
oii-t. objects in Surat ; it was built 
in 1639 in honour of the ancestor 
''jr the present Kazi of Surat. 

4 - The Mirza Sami Mosque, built 
in 1540 by Khudawand Khan, 
constructed the castle. 

Ihe Tombs of the Bohr as deserve 
^ visit. There are two chief Farsi 
^e-temples, built in 1823. The 
Hindu sect of the Wallabhacharis 
three temples The Swami 
«arayan temple, vdth three white 
nomes, is visible all over the city. 

In the two old temples in the 1 
-■^mbaji ward the shrines are 15 ft. 
underground, a rehc of Muham- ; 
niadan persecution. The Shra- | 
yaks, or Jains, have forty-seven | 
i^niples, the chief of which are ; 
kom 150 to 200 years old. There , 
nre several steam Cotton Mtlls in ; 
^iirat Gold and silver 'wire and 
spangle manufacture and brocade ! 


work are important industries ; 
while carved sandalwood and 
inlaid w^ork are still manufactured 
to some extent. Silk weaving is 
! the chief “ home industry,” in 
. which Surat is largely supplanting 
' Benares. 

Near the fort the Hope Bridge 
spans the Tapti, and 3 m. across it 
: is Rander, built on the site of a 
i very ancient Hindu city, destroyed 
1 by the Muhammadans in the 
! 12th century. The Jami Masjid 
: stands on the site of the principal 
, Jain temple. In the fa9ade the 
bases of the Jain columns are still 
visible, and the doorstep is reputed 
to be a great idol placed head 
downwards for the faithful to 
tread on in entering the mosque. 
In another mosque are the wooden 
columns and domes belonging to a 
Jain temple, which are the only 
wooden remains of the kind in 
India. 


The Tapti Valley Railway runs 
from Surat to Amalner (147 m.) 
through Nandurbar , from Amal- 



1 2 m. after leaving Surat the 

i Tapti or Tapi River is crossed by 
j a very long bridge, and close to 
I Broach the Narbada or Narmada 
' River is passed on the finest 
! Bridge on the railway, consisting 
of 25 spans, With a good view on 
, the left of Broach. 

From (ig8 m.) Ankleswar a 
! branch runs (37 m ) N E. to Nan- 
' dod 

I 203 m. Broach [BhavocJi) sta'tion 
(R., D.B,), is a place of extreme 
antiquity (population 43,403). 
The author of the Pen plus, 60-210 
A.D., mentions Broach under the 
name of Barugaza. It was then 
ruled by a feudatory Gurjjara 
Prince, and subsequently fell under 
the rule of the Chaiukyas. The 
Moslems appeared in the 8th cen- 
tury, and Broach was ruled by 
them from 1297 1772- In 

1613 A.D, it was first visited by 
Aldworth and Withington, English 



ROUTE lO. BOMBAY TO DELHI 


India 


1 66 


merchants ; and in 1614 a house 
was hired for a factory, permission 
to establish which was granted to 
Sir Thomas Roe by Jahangir in 
1616. The Dutch set up a factory | 
in 1617. In 1686 the Mahrattas i 
plundered Broach. On the i8th ; 
of November 1772 the British 
troops stormed the place with the 
loss of their commander. General 
Wedderbum, whose tomb is at the 
N.W. corner of the fort. On the 
29th of August 1S03 Broach was 
again taken by storm by the 
British. 

The Narbada hero is a noble 
river, i m. in breadth- The city 
with its suburbs covers a strip of 
land 2^ m. long and J m. broad, 
hence by its inhabitants it is called 
Jibh, or “ the tongue,” and its 
shape is described as ” Paghdi 
Pahna,” or length like a turban 
cloth without the proportionate 
breadth. The Fort stands on a 
hill more than 100 ft. above the 
river, and a massive stone wall 
lines the river bank for about i m. 
In it are the Collector's Office, the 
Civil Courts, the Dutch Factory, 
the Jail, the Civil Hospital, the 
English Church and School, the 
Municipal 0 £ 5 ce, the Victoria 
Clock Tower, Sir Shapurji Bharu- 
cha Institute, and the Library, 
The streets of the city are narrow 
and some of them steep. The 
Jami Mas j id, lying at the E. foot 
of the fort, is constructed of 
materials taken from a Jain 
temple, and perhaps on the site 
of that temple. On the W. end of 
the thickly populated city is the 
Spacious 'Idgah, or the Muham- 
madan place of worship on the 
Td hohdays, which, it is said, is 
the largest of the sort on this 
side of India. Farther on are 
the bungalows of Government 
ofihcers and wealthy citizens and 
the police headquarters. At the 
farthest end, at the place called 
” Kursi," is the Rothfeld Garden, 
on the high bank of the river. 
The view of the low lands of the 
opposite shore from this place 


over the straight broad waters of 
the smoothly flowing river is 
specially charming and attractive. 
On the N.W. side of the city, at a 
distance of i m., is the tomb of 
Bawa Rahan, and a mosque situ- 
ated on an isolated high hillock 
commanding a good view of the 
surrounding plain and adjoining 
villages - 

The Dutch tombs are 2 m. W. of 
the fort, and some 100 yds off the 
road, left. Two of them are from 
16 ft. to 20 ft. high. 

Opposite the Dutch tombs are 
five T oii'ers of Silence, one of them 
about 15 ft. high. The second 
tower is still in use. Outside the 
E. gale, on the river bank, is the 
Temple of Bhrigu Rishi, from 
whom the town got the name 
of Bhrigukackha, contracted into 
Bharoch. 

Broach is celebrated for its cot- 
ton ; there are five spinning and 
weaving mills, employing 2000 
hands, besides ginning and cotton- 
pressing factories. The district, 
though small, with, a populalion of 
only 300,000, is the richest in the 
Presidency. 

10 m. to the E. of Broach is the 
celebrated place of Hindu pil- 
grimage, Suklatirth. It is on the 
N. or right bank of the Narbada, 
and here Chanakya, King of Ujjain, 
was purified of his sins, having 
arrived at this holy spot by sailing 
down the Narbada in a boat with 
black sails, which turned white on 
his reaching Suklatirth. Here, 
too, Chandragupta and his Minis- 
ter Chanakya, were cleansed from 
the guilt of murdering Chandra- 
gupta’s eight brothers, and here 
Chamund, king of Anhilwada, in 
the iith century, ended his life 
as a penitent. 'There are three 
sacred waters — the Kavi, the Hun- 
kareswar, and the Shukal ; at 
the second is a temple with an 
image of Vishnu. There is a fair 
here in November, at which 25,000 
people assemble. Opposite Man- 
gleswar, which is i m. up stream 



ROUTE lO. MIYAGAM — CHAMPANIR 


167 


from Suklatirth, in the Narbada, 
13 an island, in which is the famous 
Banyan Tree, called the Kabir 
wad, or “ the fig-tree of Kabir," 
from whose toothpick it is said to 
have originated. It has suffered 
much from floods. Forbes, who 
nsited Broach 1776-83, and was 
the first Collector of the district, 
says, in his Oriental Memoirs (i, p. 
26), it enclosed a space within its 
pnncipal stems 2000 ft. in circum- 
ference. It had 350 large and 
3000 small trunks, and had been 
known to shelter 7000 men. 
Bishop Heber, in April 1825, says, 
though much had been washed 
away, enough remained to make 
it one of the most noble groves in 
the world. small temple marks 
the spot where the original trunk 
grew. 

228 m. Miyagam function 
station. This is a junction of a 
system of narrow-gauge railways 
(2' 6") owned by the Gaekwar of 
Baroda and worked by the B.B 
and C.I. Railway. 

Dabhoi, 20 m. from Miyagam, 
IS a town belonging to the State 
of Baroda ( population 9117)- 
The ancient Hindu architecture of 
this place is most interesting, but 
IS little known. A full account of 
it by Dr Burgess will be found in a 
volume of the Archceol. Survey of 
\V. India. The fort is said to have 
been built by the Vaghela king of 
Patan in the 13th century. The 
Baroda Gate is 31 ft. high, with 
elaborately carved pilasters on 
either side. The carvings repre- 
sent the incarnations of Vishnu, 
and nymphs sporting with makras 
or crocodiles. Near this are inter- 
esting interior colonnades in the 
fort walls affording shelter to the 
garrison. The S., orNandod, Gate 
is 29 ft. high and 16 ft. 4 in. wide. 
Trees have grown in the walls and 
fractured them with their thick 
roots. The Hira Gate, in the E. 
face of the town, is 37 ft. high and 
a marvel of minute carving. About 


10 ft. up, in the N. face of the 
centre, a man and woman are 
carved, 4 ft. high, standing with a 
tree between them, hke the old 
representations of Adam and Eve. 
To the left is the tall figure of a 
devil, with a ghastly leer. High 
in the centre face is an elephant, 
under which the builder of the 
gate is said to have been interred. 
On the N. side of the town is what 
was the palace, in which the law 
courts now sit. On this side there 
is a fine tank and the Mori Gate. 
On the left, looking out from inside 
the tower, is the temple of Maha 
Kali, and on the right, beyond the 
gate and inside it, is a smaller 
temple, now quite ruined. The 
former is a wondrous example of 
carving, which when new must 
have been very beautiful, but is 
now much worn by the weather. 

From Dabhoi a branch railway 
runs 10 m. S. to Chandod station, 
a celebrated place of Hindu pil- 
grimage, owing to its situation at 
the confluence of the Narbada 
and the Or. Thousands flock 
there every full moon. 

Another line runs 22 m. E. to 
Bodeli, and a third connects again 
with the main line of the B.B. 
and C.I. Railwa}^ at Vishvamitri, 
245 m. from Bombay. Fifteen m. 
N.E. of Bahadarpur, on the Bodeli 
line, is the fortified mountain of 
Pawangarh and the ruined city of 
Champanir. 

An interesting expedition may 
be made to these, but arrange- 
ments must be completed before- 
hand for the trip. Champanir was 
long the fortress-city of local Raj- 
put Kings. After many vicis.si- 
tudes it was taken, in 1484, by 
Mahmud Bigara, of Ahmadabad, 
who made it his capital, and in 
1535 it was besieged by Humayun, 
Emperor of Delhi. With others 
he scaled the precipices of the fort 
by the aid of iron spikes driven 
into the rock, and opened the gate 



ROUTE lO. BOMBAY TO BARODA AND DELHI 


India 


16S 


to admit his army. There are 
remains of many mosques, tombs, 
and tanks in the lower city ; and 
in the forest for miles around 
may be found the ruins of mas- 
sive wells, minarets, and palaces, 
which testify to the former great- 
ness of Champanir.5 


247 m. BARODA (R.) is the 
capital of the very important 
Mahratta State of the Gaekwar, I 
which with its dependencies covers | 
an area of 8570 sq. m., with a 
population of 2,032,798. 

The State was founded by 
Damaji Gaekwar early in the i8th 
century ; the present chief is 
H.H. Maharaja Sir Savaji Rao 
Gaekwar, G.C.S.I. 

W. of the railway station are 
situated the principal offices of 
the State and the residences of 
many high ofhcials, and the State 
Rest-House (or Baroda Hotel, as 
it IS now called) for guests of 
H.H., as well as for visitors to 
Baroda. E. of the station is the 
city (population 99,345), with the 
fine College, Museum, the Mar- 
chioness of Diifferin’s Hospital, 
the State Offices and Librarv, the 
Juna Kot, the Central Jail, etc, 1 
The Vishvamitri River flows W. of I 
the town, and is spanned by four 
stone bridges, which exhibit great 
contrasts of style. The city proper 
is intersected at right angles by 
two wide thoroughfares, which 
meet in a market-place, where 
there is a fine pavilion of Muham- 
madan architecture, a clock to\ver, 
and the old Nazar Bagh Palace. 
Adjoining it is the guard-house, 
where the gold and silver cannon | 
of the State are kept. They con- | 
tain 280 lb. weight each of solid \ 
gold, and are drawn by splendid I 
milk-white bullocks, stabled hard ' 
by The new Bak-hmi Vilas ' 
Palace cost 27 lakhs of rupees, ' 


Passes to view it must be obtained 
from the Khangi Karbari to H.H 
' the Gaekwar. 

I N. of the city are the Canton- 
j ment and Residency, well laid out 
i with open, well - planted roads. 
I The English Church was conse- 
! crated by Bishop Heber, 1824, and 
i in 1838 was almost entirely rebuilt. 
I There is a good pubhc garden 
containing a zoological collection 
between the Cantonments and the 
city on the banks of the river. 


The palace at Makarpura is 4 m, 
S. of the city. The Naulakhi 
Well, 50 yds. N., is a fine structure 
of the Baoli class, described 
below. 

Baroda is supplied with water 
from the artificial Ajwa Lake, 
18 m. distant, completed in 1892 
at a cost of 35 lakhs. 

The Baolis, in Gujarat, are large 
I wells. The foUoAving account of 
these is given by Mr A. Forbes in 
his interesting work on Gujarat, 
the Ras Mala : “ There remain in 
different parts of the country 
examples of two kinds. Some 
are large circular wells contain- 
ing galleried apartments ; others 
are more properly described as 
' wao's,’ or ' haolis'^ The wao is a 
large edifice, of a picturesque and 
stately, as well as peculiar, char- 
acter. Above the level of the 
I ground a row of four or five open 
I pavihons, at regular distances 
j from each other, usually square in 
! the interior, but sometimes, in the 
j larger examples, passing into the 
octagonal form within, is alone 
visible ; the roofs are supported 
on columns, and are, in the struc- 
tures of the Hindu times, pyra- 
midal in form. The entrance to 
the wao is by one of the end pa- 
vilions ; thence a flight of steps 
descends to a landing immediately 
under the second dome, which is 


Meb* 1 A fine model of a Baoli at Adalaj 

niadabad, etc . yioha>n7Hedan \ (p i8o) may be ietn in the Bodleian at 

Architecture of Guyarai Oxford. 



ROUTE 10. MAKARPURA — KOTAH 


169 


now seen to be supported b}" two 
rows of columns, one over the 
other. A second flight of steps 
continues the descent to a similar 
landing under the third pavilion, 
where the screen is found to be 
three columns in height. In this 
manner the descent continues 
stage by stage, the number of the 
columns increasing at each pavi- 
lion, until the level of the water is 
at last reached. The last flight 
of steps conducts to the most 
adorned portion of the wao, an 
octagonal structure, in this posi- 
tion necessarily several storeys 
high, with a gallery at each storey, 
and covered by a dome. The 
structure, which is sometimes 
So yds. in length, invariably ter- 
minates in a circular well.” 

(i) Direct route from Baroda, 
by broad gauge, to Delhi. 

This service of the B.B. and C I. 
Railway diverges N.E. to Godhra, 
292 m ; Dohad, 337 m. ; Ratlam 
(p. 12S), 408 m. ; and Nagda, 434 
m. Godhra (population 22,144) 
IS the headquarters of the Panch 
-Mahals Dt. Dohad (population 
9303) was of note under the 
Gujarat Kings. In the Panch 
Mahals District, the fortified hill of 
Pavagadh, at the foot of which lies 
the ruined city of Champanir, 
stands out from the plain of Guja- 
rat and is visible for manv miles. 
The hill is about I m. from the 
Pavagadh station on the Cham- 
panir-Shivrajpur Light Rail wav 
and is about 34 m. by rail from 
Baroda. The summit is about 
2800 ft. above sea-level and the 
ascent may be made on foot or in 
dhoolies. 

In the ruined city of Champanir, 
which surrounds the Pavagadh 
station, there are several fine ruins 
of mosques. The Jami Masjid 
has been restored by the Archaeo- 
logical Department, and is parti- 
cularly fine The Borah Masjid, 
which is also under repair, is well 
worth a visit. The height and , 
strength of the part of the city wall ! 


which remains standing give an 
; idea of the importance of Sie city 
. which was the capital of Sultan’ 
, Mahmed Begada and his descend- 
; ants from 1485 to 1535. 

In the ascent of Pavagadh there 
are interesting rums at the Medi 
and Medi Talao. Other rums are 
! the Buria Durwaza and the princi- 
pal fortifications, the Champa vati 
or Champa Ranma Mahal, which 
is a sort of summer-house in three 
storeys down the face of the hill, 
those near the Machhi Haveh 
which is half way up, and the gate 
and fortifications higher up. There 
is a temple of Bhawani on the 
summit, which is surmounted by 
a shrine of Sadan Shah. This 
shrine of a Muhammadan saint is 
built on the spire of the Hindu 
temple, the top of which has been 
removed to make room for the 
shrine. It is supposed that this 
curious arrangement represented 
the triumph of Muhammadan con- 
querors ovei the Rajput Chiefs. 

The ruined city of Champanir, 
with its fine mosques standing 
amidst the forest which has over- 
grown the site and the adjoining 
hill of Pavagadh are well worth a 
day's visit by travellers stopping 
in Baroda. There is at present 
no arrangement for travellers to 
stop at Pavagadh for the night. 

From Nagda the line turns N. 
and runs to 521 m. Sri Ghatrapur, 17 
m. from Jlialra Patan, 573 m. Kotah 
Jn., 754 m. Bharatpur Jn., (p. 218) 
and 775 m. Muttra Jn. (p. 219), and 
thence to 865 m. Delhi. At 543 
ra. liarra it passes through the 
famous Mokand-darra Pass, from 
which Colonel Monson made his 
disastrous retreat in the summer 
of 1804 before Jaswant Rao Hol- 
kar , the scenery here is striking, 
and the engineering of the line is 
very remarkable. Kotah (popula- 
tion 32,753) is the capital of the 
Kotah State, separated from 
Bundi (p 134) in 1625, and of 
which the Chief is Maharao Umed 
Singh, G.C.I.E., G.C.S.I. It is a 



xyo ROUTE lo. BOMBAY TO DELHI India 


walled city, picturesquely situated 
on the right bank of the Chambal ; 
the fine old palace and the royal 
cenotaphs lie S. of it. The new 
palace is called the Umed Bhawan. 
There is a fine General Hospital in 
the city ; also a Hospital for 1 
Women, named after Queen Vic- ! 
toria. Other attractive public j 
buildings of interest are the Cros- | 
thwaite Institute, situated in the ■ 
beautiful Public Gardens : the ! 
Herbert High School ; the Curzon 
Wyllie Memorial, and the Girls' 
School. The beautiful lake above 
the gardens should be seen. There 
is a well-furnished and comfortable 
D.B. at Kotah about 3 m from the 
railway station (17 hours from 
Bombay). There is no hotel. Con- 
veyances for hire meet all the 1 
trains. N. of Kotah the railway 
passes, 641 m., Sawai Madhupur 
(population 11,166 ; branch line 
to Sanganer, p 198), 681 m, Gan- i 
gapur, and 708 m. Hindaun, all in ' 
the Jaipur state, and the last once 
a place of importance, but dedas- 
tated by the Mahrattas, and Bay- ' 
ana (Biana) (p. 248) on the bank of j 
the Gambhir. I 

(2) Route to Ahmadabad and ! 
by metre gauge to Delhi. 1 

269 m. Anand junction station 

(a) One branch line from here 
runs N.E. to Godhra, 49 m. 

At 18 m. (D.B.) Dakor station, 
there are a large lake, and a temple 
with an image much venerated by | 
the Hindus. As many as 100.000 
pilgrims assemble in October and j 
November. ‘ 

About 20 m. N, of Dakor is the t 
walled town of j 

Kapadvanj (D.B.), noted for its j 
industry in soap, glass, and leather 
jars for “ ght.** 

Midway between the two places 
are the hot springs of Lassundra, 
the highest temperature being 
1 15®. The water is slightly sul- 


phurous, and is efficacious in skm 
diseases. 

(b) Another line runs S.W. 15 
m. to the tow'n of Petlad, and 
33 m. to Cambay, the capital of 
the Native State of that name 
(population 28,028) under the 
Nawab. The town and port are 
of great antiquity. In a.d. 913 
Cambay is described by the Arab 
traveller Masudi as standing on 
the shores of a deep bay surrounded 
by towns, villages, farms, culti- 
vated fields, trees, and gardens. 
It was governed by the -kings of 
Anhilvara {the modern Patan), 
up to the end of the 13th century. 
Muhammadan waiters of the period 
call it the “ first city in Hind." 
The beauty and wealth of the 
country led to its invasion by the 
Muhammadan Emperor Ala-ud- 
din in 1304, when the city was 
plundered and its temples de- 
stroyed 

Cambay reached the height of 
its glory under the Muhammadans 
at the latter end of the 15th and 
beginning of the i6th centuries, 
and in 1583 letters carried by 
Fitch, Leedes, and Newberry 
from Queen Elizabeth, were ad- 
dressed to Akbar, as king of Cam- 
bay The Portuguese and Dutch 
had already established factories 
here ; in 1613, when the English 
appeared, it was still a flourishing 
city, but commenced to decline as 
Surat increased in importance. 
In the 1 8th century it was plun- 
dered more than once by the 
Mahrattas ; at the same time the 
entrance to the harbour began to 
silt up, and it is now an unimpor- 
tant place. 

Cambay was formerly a strong- 
hold of the Jains, and still pos- 
sesses some of their MSS., second 
only to those at Patan. The Jami 
Masjid (1325) was built with 
fragments of Jain and Hindu 
temples. 

The towrn is celebrated for the 
manufacture of agate, cornelian, 
and onyx ornaments. 




AEiMEDABAD 


Scale Off Allies 


Suburbs. 


I 1 Rumed Uosqut near the 19 Hath! Sm^ 

Railvftj Station 20 Darya Ki 

I 2 Tombs of Ahmad Shah 21 Achyut B 

’ and his wt^ss ZZMiyanHt 

3 Jama Masjid 23 Dada Ha 

4 Ram Sipr/s Mosque 24 Mata Bhi 

5 Oastur Khans Mosque ZhChintam. 

[6 Haibat Khans Mosque ZO Kankarij 

i 7 The Triple Gateway 27 Ranchhoi 

I 8 The Bhadar Technio 

! including 28 Gujarat 

18 Azam Khan’s Palace ySDudhes 

\\0 Ahmad Khan's P’ Mosque 'SlSeiAiage 

in TheMantk Burj Lunatic 

|12 b'di Satds Mosque 

jl3 Shah Wajihud-dms Tomb 

fi4 Said Alam’s Mosque 

J5 The Rani’s Mosque tn M/rzapur. 

1€ Shaikn Hasan Muhammad Chishti 5 Mosque 

17 Muhafiz Khan 's Mosque 

18 Swami Narayan’s Temple 
ZbVictoria Gardens 
ZO/iigh School 

31 Pmjrapol 

32 M<fjhdvbaij 

33 ViCZoriti Jubilee D/spensarv ter FeTtsies 
1^34: Maslfoxi Cloth Market 

j 36 Srhoolhorthe Blind ano Mutes 

j Z^Vaterinary Hospital 

^’iORevvabn Bhaishauker 

I Suhetter Dharmsala L--— — 


19 Hathi Smgh's Temple 

20 Darya Khan's Tomb 

21 Achyut Btbih Mosque. 

22 My an khan Chisti's Mosque. 

23 Dada Han 's Weft. 

24 Mata Bhawam’s Well 

ZS ChintamarTs Temple in Saraspur 

26 Kankariya Lake 

27 Ranchhod Lai Chhota Lai 

Technical Institute 
ZB Gujarat College 


J 2 




35 DudheShvar Kiatertvorks 
37 Sewage Farm 
"ZB Lunatic Asylum 


/^^3£j^a7iJS}utn'Oa^^^ 


[ Tomb I Vl 

ii ^ 

// 


SaOiiXuu^ h i 


aaSE^- 

uaroA 




\ £ pA9TW>fK%‘TK^ 

ft 




Saraspxir 


and 

rTMukoauart^hanKm, 



Kaihijat3 


.(ronrtipur 


' /y / ' 

/ y '^eKreinpiir 


P \ 

, IhitchTvmhs n 2® 

Kdiiiarivu^ Jl 

// 





ChmidoLib 


Isa3qpini\ 


ROTATE lO. NADIAD— KATRA AHMADABAD 


' ') 281 ra. Nadiad junction sta- 
trn A branch line, Nadiad- 
Kapadvanj Railway (metre gauge) 
runs X. to Kapadvanj, 27 m. 
W diad is the most important town 
in this district. 


.191 m. Mehmadabad station, 
i'i'.turesque view of nver from 
railway station In the morning 
and evening troops of grey mon- 
kevs play near the line. Mehnia- 
dabad was founded by Mahmud 
bigara in 1479. There is a fine 
tomb m. E. of the town, built 
in 1484 in honour of Mubarak 
Sdi\ad, a Minister of Mahmud. 

■ Though small — it is only 94 ft. 
>quare, exclusive of the porch — 
there is a simplicity about its 
]'lan, a solidity and balance of 
I 'arts in the design, which is not 
always found in these tombs, and 
hi> rai'ely, if ever, been surpassed 
many tomb in India." ^ Bigara 
also constructed the Bhamara 
well, passed on the way to 1 
the tomb Jt has two stone [ 
arLhes, on wliich it was said the ^ 
king's swing was hung. It is j 
~-i ft, long by 24 ft. broad, is en~ I 
t'-*red by four winding stairs, and | 
has f'lght underground chambers. 

Kaira, 7 m. from Mehmadabad, 
'p'lbhc conveyances — horse - car- 
nages — ply between them) by n 
irood road shaded by fine trees 
'population 7399), is the headquar- 
teis and one of the largest towns in 
the district of that name. It con- 
sists of two parts, the town proper 
■Old the suburbs. Kaira is said to 
he as old as 1400 b.c. Copper- 
plate grants show that the city was 
;n existence in the 5th century. 
Ihc chief industry is printing cloth 
tor saris and other native gar- 
ments. In the centre of the town 
Is the Court House, a building with 
pillars of a Greek order. Near it 

I See Fergusson's Indian Architectuf'e-, 

' -M4- 


I7I 

is a Jain temple, with beautiful 
dark wood carHng. Outside the 
E. gate is the new Jail. It was 
formerly of great importance, be- 
ing on the mam route from Cam- 
bay to N. India, and the boundary 
of British possessions. It was a 
large military Cantonment, but 
proved so unhealthy for Europeans 
that the troops were withdrawn. 
The large church was consecrated 
by Bishop Heber in 1822, and has 
a beautiful bell. 

Wild hog may still be found in 
the distnct, and the Nilgai {Portax 
picius), antelope {Antilope hezoar- 
tica], and Indian gazelle [Gazella 
Bennettii) are common. The 
Sanis (Ardea Antigone) is a tall 
grey crane with a crimson head. 
Wild - fowi, bustard (Eupodoiis 
Edwardsii) and florican [Sypheo- 
iides auntiis), partridges and 
quails, sand-grouse, plovers and 
bitterns, pea - fowi and green 
pigeon, are found everywhere. 
The Mahsir {Barhns Mosul) is 
found in the Mahi, Vatrak, 
Meshwm, and Sabarmati, and 
affords excellent sport with the 
rod and fly 

310 m . Ahmadabad ^ J n . * 
Change to metre - gauge railway 
for Delhi and stations on C.l. 
hue : also for the tw^o metre- 
gauge railways {a) to Parantij 
to Dholka Headquarters of the 
Northern Division of the Bombay 
Presidency. 

This most beautiful city, cover- 
ing an area of 2 sq. m. (216,895 
inhabitants), stands on the left 
bank of the Sabarmati nver, in 
lat. 23° 2', long. 72° 38'. The 
remains of an old wall, with tw^elve 
gateways, surround it. 

Ahmadabad, once the greatest 
city in Western India, is said to 
have been from 1573 to 1600 the 

1 No one should pass this ancient capital, 
the stronghold of the Northern Jains, with- 
out pausing long enough (four hours) to visit 
j the Jami Masjid, the fomls of the Queens, 
I and the Rani Sipri Mosque. 



172 


nOt'Tr 10 PnMr. 'Y TO DELTII 


Ir.rha 


hand5ome^t tovn m Hindustan 
oerhaps in the ’>\urld.’' In Sir 
Thomas Roe's time, 1615, wc art- 
told “ It was a goodly city lart^t- 
iis London." It was founded in 
1411 by Sultan Ahmad I , who 
made Asaval, the old Hindu town, 
now included in the S. part ot 
the city, hia capitLih It passed 
through two periods of greatness, 
t’vo of de:a''y and one of revival 
From 1411 to 15 ii it grev in ^lze 
and wealth , from 1512 to 1572 it 
declined with the decay r*f the 
dynasty of Gujarat ; Irorn 13 7S 
to ijoij it recovered under the 
Mughals ; from 1709 to isog it 
dwindled with them , and irom 
18 iS it has again increased under 
British rule. There are 72 mills 
in it. employing 42,720 hands 

it IS suppheri witU altered v.ati r 
obtained from \\ell^ -uiik in the 
bed ot the ri\ar ; the mam ■Mt' 1,1- 
are supplied witli el‘M tn<. I'u'p 

The Cantonment lies m N.F. 
ot the city, and is reacFied bv a 
good road lined by an avenue ot 
trees, the haunt of tliou^ands of 
parrots. Here there is an ICnglish 
Church, and there is another, 
Christ Church, in the I dan a 
Qua} tty, 300 yds S of the Ihdlii 
^ Tate 

It Is hard to account U)! Alima > 
dabad being so httli kir >wn to 
modern trawdlrr-, Iroia 1-miop'. 
It eertamly ranks higli am<ang--t 
the cities of India for the beauty 
and extent of its arcliitectural re- 
mains ^ Its architecture is an 
interesting and striking example 
of the combination of Hindu 
and Muhammadan forms Xo- 
wheredid the inhabitants of Ahma- 
dabacl show hoev essentiallv they 
were an architectural people as in 

their utilitarian works fwcils :,€ , 

Idciolis, and inlets to water reser- 
voirs). It was a necessity of their 
nature that every object should be 
made ornamental, and their success 

* amplest lieta’ls or 

01 Anmadabad will be found in a late 
volume of the Suy-^yy of V 

by Dr Burgess 


was as great in thes^* as in their 
mosques or paHce^ " .see Fergus- 
ton’- l,vL Arch , 2. 241) 

The Jam uedmg-placcs for b^ids, 
\\hich at the first glance look like 
pigeon-houses, may be seen in 
many of the streets, and are a 
peculiar feature of Ahmadabad , 
they are extr^ mely picturesque, 
ornamented with carving and 
rfiten gaily painted. Man\ of the 
llOuse'^ m tlie .-treets have fronts 
beautifully ornamented with wood 
carving 

The oil! parts of the city are 
divided into quarters wholly separ- 
ateii olf iruni one another and 
named ‘ poL 

Tin building-^ in the city mav be 
^een in the following order : — 

Tha Jami Masjid anrl Tombs oi 
Ahm.ul Shah and his wives, the 
Ram Sipri Tomb and Mosque : 
Da^liir ich.uiS Mosque , the Tin 
Darwvtza . tiie Bhadar Azam 
Khan Fala-:e , Sidi Saiyad's 
Mosqua Alimad Shah’s Mosque , 
Shaikh Hagan’s Mosque , the 
Ram ,or Oilmen's} Mosque in Mirza- 
juir , IMuhafiz Khan’s Mosque 

With a second morning to spare 
tlie vmitor should start early an*! 
see Sarkhc], across the nver to the 
S \V , giving himself at least loiu 
hours for the trip A second after- 
noon could be dev'Oted to the 
Kankanya Tank and Shah Alam. 
S. of the city, and perhaps th- 
modern Jain Temple of Hathi- 
singh, outside the Delhi Gate. 

Near the railway station are the 
handsome lofty minarets and 
arched central gatcw'ay, which are 
all that remain of a mosque' 
(I) fiestroved in the struggle with 
the Malirattas in 1733. 

The Jami Masjid ( 3 )- 
principal mosque, stands near the 
centre of the citv, on the 5 . side 
ot the mam street (Manik Chauk), 
a little F. of the Three Gateways. 
It w'as built by Sultan Ahmad I 

‘ rh.-r Mil’ll 'jr.i' KCO re.e. :o tbe 
niiin erb un tile accompanying plan 



ROUTE lO. 


AHMADABAD 


173 


■ \hmad Shah,) m 14-4 Mr Fcr- 

V'^on ‘ “ Though not re- 

!i'- ,rkable tor it^ r^ize. it is one m 
tl:- most beautiful mosques in the 
h-'t” Ind Arch., 2, 230) The 

■ -que is entcrei from the X by 
dight of steps On the S is 

jT. <ther porch leading into the 
and on the E. is the enclo- 
’.:l, in which the tomb of the 
10 .nder. The court is. surrounded 
b” a cloister To the \V is the 
".i^-que proper. On the thresh- 
ot the mam arch, embedded 
the pavement, lies a black 
•' .0 brought from Chintaman s 
rrmple, which, according to Sir 
i Hope, is a Jam idol turned 
'-’■•>Lrle flown ic)!' til.' laitidi.ll to 
- ad on , and touching it on the 
' i- a white marble crescent, 
'-.re the Imam stands to pray 
h, tile rigid - hand corner on en- 
’uig is a .gallery, wdiich w\as 
giobably ii-cd bv the members of 
‘d Kfoal Isimilv 'I'he la'of, sup- 
'lied by 2O0 columns, lias hlteen 
gjolas, wdh galleries round the 
lO'e in front. The centre cupola 
cirger and much higher than the 
' L'ltrs The two minarc. ts lost 
'■ill their height in the earthquake 
10th June iSiQ. They are now' 

' ^ It. high.* On the marble slab 
"hove the centre ot the three 
'-as, or praver-niches, are tiiesn 
’\rirds in Arabic “ This high and 
dr-stretching mosque w'Us raised 
b' the slave wdio trusts m the 
"c* rcy of God. the compassionate, 
drie aionc-to-be-worshipped ” The 
horan savs : “ Truly mosques 

etlong to God, worship no one 
' he wnth Him." " The slave who 
dusts in God, the Aider, X'asir-iid- 
‘lunya , w'a - ud - din Abu’l Path. 
Ahmad Shah, son of Muhammad 
^hah. son of Sultan Muzafiar." 

1 hroiigh the E gate is the Tomb 
of Ahmad Shah (2) (repaired 15S7) 

f'l 17:1 Ml F‘ibe^. lij li:^ 'li. 

■OA'cvrj, said ot them ' A ciiculai 

^teps led to a gallery near the top of 
A little fo’-ce at the arch of the upper 
gallery made both minaret'=; sh.ake, though 
It-, roof of the ino^'iue remained unmoved 


Thi> domed building has a portico 
to the S with eighteen pillars. 
The wandows are of perforated 
stonework. The central chamber 
is 36 ft square. It is paved wnth 
marble of diderent colours. The 
centre cenotaph is that of Ahmad 
Shah, the one to the W. is that of 
his son. r^Iuhammad Shah, and 
that on the £. is that of liis grand- 
son, Kutb Shah, died 1441, 145 ^' 
and 1459 A.D. 

50 yds, to the E., across the 
street, are the Tombs of the Queens 
of Ahmad Shah (2). The houses 
are so close that they quite shut 
out the facade of the mausoleum, 
winch IS raised on a platform. In 
the tagade are thirteen highly 
ornamented carved recesses. In- 
side IS a rectangular court, with a 
corridor running round it. In thi. 
centre are eiglit large cenotaphs 
and several small ones. The 
centre tombstone is hnely carved, 
and IS the tomb of Mughlai Bibi. 
It is of black stone or marble, 
inlaid with wEite This building 
IS one of the finest m Ahmadabad, 
but much out of repair. 

Rani Sipris Mosque and Tomb 
4 } are almost the most beautiful 
monuments in Ahmadabad. Rani 
A.sm bv w’hom the mosque and 
tomb w ere reallv built, wms one of 
the \\i\'es of Alahmud Bigara, and 
thev were completed in 1514- 
" 'They are the first of a senes of 
buildings more delicately ornate 
than any that preceded." * The 
mosque has tw^o minarets, about 
50 ft. high, having four compart- 
ments tapering up to the top. 
The roof is supported by a row of 
SIX coupled pillars with single ones 
behind. The rauza, or tomb, is 
36 ft. square. 

Dastur Khan’s Mosque {5), built 
in 14S6 by one of Mahmud Bigara’s 
Ministers. The open stone screen- 
work that shuts in the cloister 

1 Ml f llyjpc 



174 


ROUTE lO. BOMBAY TO DELHI 


round the courtyard is very fine 
In the gateway the mark^ of shot 
may be seen. A few yards to the 
E. of Dastiir Khan’s Mosque 
Asa Bhil's Mound, the site ol 
the fort of the Bhil Chief, from 
whom the town of Asaval had its 
name. 


A little to the X E of the Jamal- 
pur Gate is Haibat Khan's Mosque 
1 6), winch IS inbmesting as one of 
the earliest attempts to combine 
Muhammadan and Hindu ele- 
ments Haibat Khan ^vas one of 
the noblemen of Ahmad Shah’s 
court The mosque is very plain. 
The front wall is pierced bv three 
^mall pointed arcbei!) some distance 
apart. The minarets are binall 
and without ornament, and rise 
like chimneys from the roof. Tlie 
central dome, of Hindu workman- 
ship and of great beauty, ib bandy 
raised above the otheis The 
pillars, taken from different tem- 
ples, display every \anety of rich 
ornament. Except for the form 
of its dome, the outer porch would 
^uit a Hindu temple. 


The Tin Darwaza, or Three 
Gateways fy), built by Sultan 
Ahmad I., is of stone richlv carved. 
It crosses the mam street a little 
to the X. of the Jami Masjid 
This gateway led into the outer 
court of the Bhadar, known as the 
Royal Square, and was surrounded 
in 1638 by two rows of palm trees 
and tamarinds ( J A.dc Mandelslo’s 
Voyages, 1669, P- 7b). Facing the 
Bhadar Gate is a municipal gar- 
den. X. of the garden is the 
Middle School, and to the W. 
the Hemabhai Institute, with a 
good library and newspapers and 
periodical of this Institute — 

and by leaving the main road — is 
the Government Telegraph Office. 
Near it is the Mosque of Malik 
Sha'han, with an inscription that 
says it was built in the reign of 
Kutb-ud-din, by Sha’ban, sun of 


India 

’fmad - ul'inulk, m ^30 ah.— 
1452 A.D. 

The Bhadar i8), an ancient 
enclobure or citadel, built by 
Ahmad Shah, 1411, and named 
after the godde>s Bhadra, a pro- 
pitious form of Kail, is occupied 
by public officcb. In the E face 
13 the Palace, built by 'Azam Khan 
{9), the 23rd ^hce^oy {1635-42}, 
who was called Vdai, “ the white 
ant from hib love of building, 
li ib now the I'o'.l-Ortice. S ot 
the palace arc the Civil Court 
buildings. Over the gate ib a Per- 
-^lan chronf^gram giving the date 
i63t) A D 'i'he .V entrance 10 the 
lUuidar is vltv liaudsomc. The 
gate under an archway ib iS ft 
high, and opens into a regular octa- 
gonal hall of great elegance, con- 
tammg m the upper storey an 
aixlied gallery, having in front a 
low wail of open-cut stone, and 
( ach gallery burmounted by a cup- 
ola. Cnderneath this hall is a fine 
vaulted chamber, entered by a 
flight of steps at each side, with a 
reservoir and fountain m the 
middle. ClubC to the Jail a 
temple to Bhadra Kah Mata. At 
the X.E. corner is Sidi Saiyad s 
Mosque (12), which forms part of 
the wall, and was till lately the 
Mamlatdar’s office. Two of its 
windows are filled with delicate 
stone tracery of tree-stems and 
branches beautifully wrought. Mr 
Fergusson, who gives an illustra- 
tion of one of the windows, says in 
his Indian Architecture, 2, 236-7 • 
"It would be difficult to excel 
the skill with which the vegetable 
forms are conventionalised just to 
the extent required for the pur- 
pose. The equal spacing also of 
the subject by the three ordinary 
trees and four palms takes it out of 
the category of direct imitation of 
nature, and renders it sufficiently 
structural for its situation ; but 
perhaps the greatest skill is shown 
in the even manner in which the 
pattern ib spread over the whole 



ROUTE lO. 


AHMADABAD 


5i:r:ace There are some exquisite 
srecmiens of tracery m precious 
ra.irbles at Agra and Delhi, but 
n:.nc quite equal to this." 

In the S.W. corner of the Bha- 
1 .r IS Ahmad Shah's Mosque (lo) 
built by him in 1414. twenty years 
t/ti.'te the Jami Masjid, being per- 
the oldest here. It is said 
to - nve been used as the King's 
pri\.ite chapel. Left on advanc- 
towards the mosque, was once 
ti-r Ganj - i - Shahid, or Store ot 
-Martyrs, where were buried the , 
Mo^iems killed in storming the 
town. The facade is almost bare 
0: ornament, with dl-designod 
pointed arches The two min- 
ai'.ts are evidently unfinished. 
iiit‘ mimbar, or pulpit, is adorned 
vMtli what looks hke laurel leaves. 
Ir.L* architecture shows the first 
^ttvinpts at building a Moslem 
ciJuice in what had been a Hindu 
'^it> The pillars still bear Hindu 
tgure.s and emblems. The X 
Perth , leading into the latticed 
gallery, is Hindu through- 
out, and may be part of a temple : 
in ' 

W. of this mosque is the Manik ! 
Burj (ii), or Ruby Bastion, built i 
round the foundation-stone of the i 
-dy. There is a small round tomb 1 
m the yard near the Collector's i 
oiPce, which is said to be that of | 
fbrahim Kuli Khan, a Persian ! 
Wdrnor ! 

Skah Wajih-ud- din's Tomb (13)- ' 
built by Saiyad Murtaza Khan j 
Sokhari, nth Viceroy, 1606-1600. 1 
a very beautiful monument. 

Saiyad Alam's Mosque (14), was | 
built about 1420 by Abubakr 
Husaini. The inner details are as 
as Hindu art could make 
fbem. S. of this 170 yds is 
The Rani Masjid (Queen's Mos- 
^^2) (15) Mirzapiir, a few yds. 
the S of the D.B. fnow the 
Grand Hotel "), built probably 
Sultan Ahmad I. 's reign. There 
‘iw Uvo minarets, unfinished or 


partly destroyed by an earth- 
quake, and now only 33 ft. high. 
The roof has three domes, and is 
supported by thirty-six pillars. 
To the X.E. of the mosque is the 
rauza or tomb (restored). Under 
the dome are two cenotaphs of 
V hite marble ; the central one is 
the tomb ot Rupvati, a Princess 
of Dhar. It is in good preserva- 
tion, while that on the W. side is 
much injured; both are orna- 
mented wath the chain and censer, 
a Hindu device. Mr Fergusson, 
{Ind, Arch,, 2, 236) has given a plan 
of this mosque, and says : " The 
lower part of the minaret is of 
pure Hindu architecture We can 
loiiow the progress of the develop- 
ment of this form from the first 
rude attempt in the Jami Masjid 
through all its stages to the 
exquisite patterns of the Queen’s 
Mosque at Mirzapur." 

A little to the N of this mosque 
is the new Government High 
School on the right going N. 
Opposite the latter, and reached 
by a bye-street, is a carpet factory, 
owned bv Harilal Bakarbhai & 
Co . which is worth visiting. 

The Mosque of Shaikh Hasan Mu- 
hammad Chishti, in Shahpur (16), is 
in the N.W. angle of the city, not 
far from the Sabarmati, 1565 a.d. 
The minarets are unfinished. 
“ The tracery m the niches of 
their bases is perhaps superior to 
any other in the city." On the S. 
or left side of the central arch is a 
Persian quatrain. This chrono- 
gram gives the date 1566 a.d 

East of the Rani's Masjid the 
Mosque of Muhafiz Khan (17) 

I was built in 1465 by Jamal-ud-dm 
i Muhafiz Khan, Governor of the 
! city in 1471 under Mahmud Bigara. 

' It is the best preserved of all the 
I mosques. According to Sir T. 

; Hope, "its details are exquisite," 

I and the minarets of the mosque 
I and those of Rani Sipri "surpass 
those of Cairo in beauty." 



ROUTE lO, BOMBAY TO DELHI 


India 


176 


S. ot tins mosque is the modern 
Swami Narayan’s Temple (18), 
finished in 1S50. It has an octa- 
gonal dome, supported on twelve 
pillars, and is a fine building. 

Close to it is the Pinjrapol, or 
Asylum for Animals The enclo- 
sure is surrounded by sheds, where 
about 275 animals are lodged 
There is also a room where insects 
are fed. Close to the S. of it are 
nine tombs, each 18 ft. 3 in. long, 
called the Nau Gaz Pirs, ” the 
Nine Yard Saints.'" They are 
most likely the tombs of a number 
of men killed in some battle. 

The Mosque, Tomb, and College 
of Shuja’at Khan. This mosque, 
which stands 400 yds. N.E. of the 
Lai Gate of the Bhadar, has two 
slender minarets, and is divided 
by piers into five bays, and over 
the kibla are written the creed 
and date — 1695. The walls, up 
to 6 ft., are Hned with marble. 
The tomb is of bnck, with a 
marble floor, much destroyed. It 
is called bpth the Marble and the 
Ivory Mosque. 

Ahmadabad is celebrated for its 
Handicraftsmen — goldsmiths, jew- 
ellers, etc., who carry the chopped 
form of jewellery (the finest 
archaic jewellery in India) to the 
highest perfection ; copper and 
brass- workers, as instanced par- 
ticularly in the very graceful and 
delicate brass-screens and pandans 
(betel-boxes) ; carpenters, who 
have long been famous for their 
superior carving in shisham, or 
mongrel blackwood, of which the 
finest specimens are to be found 
here ; stone - masons, lacquer- 
workers, carvers in ivory — also for 
the manufacture of “ Bombay 
boxes ” ; mock ornaments for 
idols ; leather shields ; cotton 
cloth (four monster steam fac- 
tories) ; caHco - printing, gold- 
figured silks, and gold and silver 
tissues ; kimkhwab [kinkab), or 
brocades (the noblest produced in 


I India ; gold and silver lace and 
thread, and all manner of tinsel 
ornaments. 

Its industrial importance is 
shown by the fact that “ the 
N agar- Seth,'* or city lord, of 
, Ahmadabad is the titular head of 
i all the Guilds, and one of the 
! highest personages in the city, 
j Carpets have also become a 
speciahty of Ahmadabad, and the 
manufactories as well as the work- 
shops of the other crafts are well 
I worth \dsiting. 

[ ENVIRONS. — For 12 m. round 
i Ahmadabad the country is full of 
interesting ruins ; but here only 
the principal can be mentioned. 
J ust outside the Delhi Gate, on the 
5 ^"., is the modern Hath! Singh 
1 Temple (19), built of white marble 
* and surmounted by fifty-three 
domes. This and a rest-house 
i and family mansion close by -were 
finished in 184S, at a cost of 
! Rs. 1,000,000 The dimensions of 
this temple are of the first order ; 
j its style the pure Jain ; and it 
stands a convincing proof that the 
: native architecture has not been 
1 extinguished by centuries of re- 
; pression. In its sculptures may 
I be seen representations of the 
twenty-four holy men, or Tirthan- 
kars, and hundreds of other 
images, all similar, but each 
labelled on the base with the 
emblem of some distinct Jain, 
j The entrance is from a courtyard 
; surrounded by a corridor, where 
^ woollen slippers are provided 
before ascending a portico richly 
, carved and supported by pillars. 

The temple consists of an outer 
, and an inner chamber, both paved 
, with coloured marbles, chiefly 
; from Makrana, in Raj pu tana : in 
I the latter is the image of Dharm- 
I nath, who is represented as a 
; beautiful youth, with a sparkling 
j tiara oL imitation diamonds Mr 
Fergusson says (Ind. Arch., 2, 
66 ) : “ Each part goes on increas- 
ing in dignity as we approach the 
sanctuary* The exterior ex- 



ROUTE lO. AHMADAEAD— MATA BHAWANI 


177 


presses the interior more com- 
pletely than even a Gothic design ; 
and whether looked at from its 
courts or from the outside, it 
possesses variety without confu- 
sion, and an appropriateness of 
ery part to the purpose for 
which it was intended. N.W. of 
this is the ruined Tomb of Darya 
Khan (20), 1453, chief Minister of 
Mahmud Bigara. The dome is 
y ft. thick, and the largest in 
Gujarat. Near this is a hostel, for 
students of the R.C. High School, 
built by the late Sirdar Sir Chinub- 
hai M. Ranchhodlal. Not far be- 
yond it is the Chhota, or small 
Shahi Bagh, of no architectural in- 
terest, now a private house, occu- 
pied by the District Superinten- 
dent of Police, where it is said the 
ladies of the royal harem lived. 
Across the railway line is the Shahi 
Bagh, a very fine garden-house, 
now the residence of the Com- 
missioner of the Northern Division 
A subterranean passage is said 
to communicate between the 
two places. The building was 
erected in 1622 by Shah Jahan, 
when Viceroy of Ahmadabad, to 
Rive work to the poor during a sea- 
son of scarcity. In the i6th cen- 
tury this was the great resort for 
the people of the city. The Shahi 
Bagh is close to the railway bridge 
over the Sabarmati, which river it 
overlooks, m. S.W. of the Shahi 
Bagh is MiyanKhan Chishti's Mosque 
'^2), built in 1465 by MaUk Maksud 
^Vazir ; and ^ m. more to the S.W. is 
Achyut Bibi’s Mosque (21), built in 
1469 by Tmadu'l mulk, one of 
Bigara^s Ministers, for his wife Bibi 
Achyut Kuki, whose tomb is close 
]^y- There were seven minarets 
here, all of which were thrown 
down in the earthquake of 1819. 
returning from this point, the 
drive may be continued to the N.E. 
''ide of the city, to Asarva, about 
i m. N.E. of the Daryapur Gate, 
^bd close to the Asarva railway 
station, where are the Baolis, or 
^ells of Dada Hari (23) and 
Mata Bhawani. The real name of 


j Dada is said by the local people 
I to have been Hahm, “ mild,” and 
[ they call him Dada Han. He is 
I said to have been the husband of 
j the Dai, or nurse of one of the 
j Kings. There is an ascent from 
1 the road to the platform which 
I surrounds the well’s mouth. 'A 
I domed portico, supported by 
1 twelve pillars, gives entrance to 
i three tiers of finely constructed 
I galleries below ground, which lead 
: to the octagonal well, with inscrip- 
j tions in Sanskrit and Arabic, The 
well beyond the octagonal one has 
pillars round it and a fence wall. 
Beyond this is a circular well for 
irrigation. A ver}' narrow stair- 
case leads to the level ground, 
where by the side of the well are 
two stone kiosks. About 50 yds. 
to the W. is Dada Hari’s Mosque, 
one of the best decorated buildings 
at Ahmadabad, though no marble 
is employed. The stone is of a 
dull reddish - grey colour. The 
bases of the two minarets are 
richly carved ; a portion of them 
was thrown down by the earth- 
quake of 1819. To the N. is the 
Rauza of Dada Han, or Halim. The 
N. door is exquisitely carved, but 
the inside is quite plain. 

Mata Bhawani (24). — This well 
is about 100 yds. N. of Dada 
Hari’s, but is much older, and is 
thought to be of the time of 
Karan, when Ahmadabad w'as 
called Karanavati. The descent 
to the water from the platform is 
by fifty - two steps and pillared 
galleries, as at Dada Hari. The 
porticoes are quite plain, and the 
well is altogether inferior to that 
of Dada Hari. 

Most of the houses in the Mad- 
havpura suburb are warehouses, 
and it is the great business quarter. 
SavaspuY, E. of the railway station, 
is a distinct walled town, the 
largest of the suburbs. In this 
suburb is the Jain Temple of 
Chintaman (25), restored in 1868 
by Shantidas, a nch merchant, at 
a cost of Rs.QooVaoo. Aurangzeb 


M 



178 ROUTE TO. BOMBAY TO 

deliled it and changed it into a 
mosque. The Jains petitioned 
the Emperor Shah Jahan, who 
ordered his son to repair and 
restore the temple. But in 1666 
Thevenot speak? of it as a mosque 
{Voyages, 5, 28). 

^ m. S.E of the Raypur Gate is 
the Hauz-i-Kutb, generally called 
the Kankariya Lake (26), or Pebble 
Lake. This reservoir, one of the 
largest of its kind in this part of 
India, is a regular polygon of 
thirty-four sides, each side 190 ft. 
long, the whole being more than 
I m. round. The area is 72 acres. 
It was constructed by Sultan 
Kutb-ud-din in 1451, and was 
then surrounded by many tiers of 
cut-stone steps, with six sloping 
approaches, flanked by cupolas 
and an exquisitely carved water- 
sluice In the centre was an 
island, with a garden called 
Nagina, or the Gem, and a pavilion 
called Ghattamandal. In 1872 
Mr Borrodaile, the Collector, 
repaired the building, and made a 
road from the Raypur Gate. On 
the E. bank of the lake are some 
Dutch and Armenian tombs, 
Saracenic in style, with domes and 
pillars a good deal ruined. The 
dates range from 1641 to 1689. 

This expedition may be con- 
tinued to Batwa, which is almost 
5 m. due S. of the Raypur Gate. 
Here Burhan - ud - din Kutb - ul- 
Alam, the grandson of a famous 
saint buried at Uch on the Sutlej, 
is interred. He came to the court 
of Sultan Ahmad I., settled at 
Batwa, and died there in 1452. A 
vast mausoleum of fine design and 
proportions was erected to his 
memory. It resembles the build- 
ings at Sarkhej, but the aisles are 
‘ arched and vaulted, and the dome 
is raised by a second tier of arches. 
The workmanship is most elabor- 
ate, but the building is, unfor- 
tunately, much out of repair. 
Adjoining it are a mosque and 
tank. In this tomb there is a 
small log of wood,^ which (it is said) 


AHM.^DABAD .\ND DELHI India 

I one night struck the saint’s foot. 

I On his calling out and asking 
' whether it was a piece of iron, 
i stone, or wood, or what, the log 
! at once began to contain ail the 
I materials mentioned. Many visi- 
tors have tried in vain to discover 
the truth of its substance. 

The tomb of Shah Alam, the son 
of the saint buried at Batwa, is 
2 m. S.E. of the town on the Batwa 
, road. Before reaching the tomb 
I the road passes under two plain 
gateways, and then through one 
with a Nakkar Khana (music 
, galler^q above the archway, and 
so into a vast court. To the W. 
is the mosque, which has two 
, minarets of seven storeys, hand- 
somely carved and about go ft. 
high. The tomb of Shah Alam 
, is to the E., and is protected by 
metal lattices ; he was a spiritual 
i guide of Muhmud Bigara, and died 
j in 1475. To the S. is an assembly 
' hall, built by Muzaffar III. (1561- 
I 72), and partly destroyed by the 
' British in 1780 to furnish materials 
' for the siege of the city. The 
' tomb is said to have been built by 
i Taj Khan Nariali, one of Mah- 
' mud’s courtiers. Early in the 
17th century Asaf Khan (p. 321), 
j brother of the Empress Nur Jahan, 

! adorned the dome with gold and 
' precious stones. The floor of the 
j tomb is inlaid with black and 
! white marble, the doors are of 
[ open brasswork, and the frame in 
I which they set, as well as what 
‘ shows between the door-frame and 
I the two stone pillars to the right 
j and left, is of pure white marble, 

I beautifully carved and pierced, 
j The tomb itself is enclosed by an 
! inner wall of pierced stone. The 
■ outer wall in the N. is of stone 
‘ trellis-work of the most varied 
design, and here Shaikh Kabir, 
renowned for his learning, who 
died in 1618, is buried. The 
I mosque was built by Muhammad 
j Salih Badakhshi. The minarets 
were much damaged by the 
' earthquake of 1819. but have been 



ROUTE lO. SARKHEJ 


170 

repaired, and are now in good with nch fields on either side, and 

: order. To the S. of the mosque at 2J m. left is the massive brick 

I IS a tomb like that of the cluef Mausoleum of 'Aizam and Mu 

I mausoleum, where the family *of ’azzam, built probably in 1457. 

Shah Alam are buried. Outside These brothers are said to have 

the wall to the \V. is a reservoir ' been the architects of Sarkhej, 

built by the wife of Taj Khan and to have come from Khorasan 

Xariali, now known as Chandola The immense structure which 

tank, which has been greatly im- ' contains their tombs is raised on 

proved by the Gujarat Irrigation j a platform. About 300 yds. from 

Department, and is now a mam : the principal buildings at Sarkhej 

I ^oiirct^ of irrigation ! there are two brick towers about 

I 30 ft. high, the bases of which, 

I close to the ground, have been so 
Sarkhej is 6 m. to the S.W of the ' dug away that it seems a miracle 
Jamalpur Gate, whence a good ! they do not fall After another 
carnage will take two people | 200 yds. the road passes under 
comfortably in about an hour, j two arches, leading into the court- 
Sarkhej is served by the railway j yard of Sarkhej. To the left on 
line to Dholka {p. 180), but the j entering is the fine mausoleum of 
service is not likely to be suitable Mahmud Bigara ^ and his sons, and 
to visitors. The road crosses the connected with it by a beautiful 
Sabarmati river {the channel of portico another equally magni> 
wliich is about | m. broad, but the ficent tomb on the border of 
w'ater in the dry w'eather is only ; the tank for liis Queen Kajabai. 
2 . ft deep) on a massive iron I To the right is the Tomb of the 
bridge of fourttcn spans, called the I Saint Shaikh Ahmad Khaitu Ganj 
Kills Bridge. On the left bank j Bakhsh, called also Maghrabi. 
IS the Victoria Garden, of which ■ Ganj Bakhsh hved at Anhahvara, 
the site was given by Government I and was the spiritual guide of 
to the city, with a marble seated - Sultan Ahmad I., and a renowned 
statue of Queen \ictoria by j Muhammadan saint ; he retired to 
Mr G. A. Mhatre The river-bed | Sarkhej, and died there in 1445 
13 dotted with enclosures for the j at the age of in, and this magni- 
cultivation of melons, potatoes, , ficent tomb and mosque w'ere 
and other vegetables, and the j erected to his memory. The tomb 
runmng w^ater is lined with gaily- 1 is the largest of its kind in Gujarat, 
dressed women waslung their j and has a great central dome and 
clothes. Garments of ever}' shape many smaller ones. Over the 
and of the brightest colours are central door of the tomb is a 
laid out to dry. These persons Persian quatrain. It gives the 
are not professional washerwomen, date 1473 a.d. The shnne inside 
but belong to many classes of j is octagonal, surrounded by finely- 
"'ociety. The remains of an old ■ w^orked brass lattice - windows, 
bridge will be seen to the S of j The pavement is of coloured 
the Ellis Bridge : both the road j marbles, and the dome inside 
and the old railway bndges were j richly gilt ; from it hangs a long 
carried away by the great flood in i silver chain, w^hich once reached 
1S75. Near the bridge the city w^all to the ground. The vast adjoin- 
is from 40 ft. to 60 ft. high. Near ! ing Mosque is the perfection of 
the other end of the bndge is the i elegant simpHcity : it has ten 
iiujarat College Close by, is the | cupolas, supported on eighteen 
hne building of the Science Insti- j rows of pillars. The whole of 
tute, bmlt by the late Sirdar Sir C. ; 

^1 Ranchhodlal. The road on the j 1 Reigned 1459-1513 a.d. Begara means 
other side of the river is good, 1 with horn -like moustaches. 


ROUTE lO. BOMBAY TO DELHI 


India 


i8o / 

these buildings, says Mr Fergus- 
son (Ind. Arch., 2, 235), '' are 
constructed without a single arch ; 
all the pillars have the usual 
bracket capitals of the Hindus, 
and all the domes are on the hori- 
zontal principle/' S. of the saint’s 
tomb is that of his disciple Shaikh 
Salah-ud-din. 

Mahmud Bigara excavated the 
great tank of 17 J acres, surrounded 
it by flights of stone steps, con- 
structed a nchly-decorated supply- 
sluice, and built at its S.W. corner 
a splendid palace and harem, 
which a few years ago were in 
ruins, but have since been 
repaired by the PubUc Works 
Department. 

The Sarkhej buildings form the | 
most beautiful group in Ahmad a- 
bad. They belong to the best 
period of the style, and have the 
special interest of being almost 
purely Hindu, with only the faintest 
trace of the Muhammadan style. 
Numbers of people used to bathe 
in the old tank, now dry, in spite 
of the crocodiles. A Httle S. of the 
lake is the tomb of Baba AU Sher, 
a saint even more venerated than 
Ganj Bakhsh. It is small, ugly, 
and white- washed. Close by are 
the remains of Mirza Khan 
Khanan's Garden of Victory, laid 
out in 1584 after his defeat of 
Muzaffar III., the last Ahmada- 
bad King. In the 17th century 
Sarkhej was so famous for indigo 
that in 1620 the Dutch estab- 
lished a factory there. 

From Ahmadabad main station 
a line branches off to the N.E. to 
Paranti] (41 m.) and Idar (55 m.). 
The Chief of Idar was Lieutenant- 
General Maharaja Sir Pertab 
Singhji,G.C.S.I.,G.C.V.O.,G.C.B., 
A.D.C., uncle of the late Maharaja 
of Jodhpur ; he has now retired in 
favour of his adopted son Daulat 
Singhji. 

Leaving Ahmadabad, the rail- 
way crosses the Sabarmati River 
quite close to the Shahi Bagh on a 


flne bridge, which carries the rails 
i for both gauges and a footway on 
I one side. 

I At 314 m. Sabarmati junction 
I station the narrow gauge continues 
, N. to Delhi, whilst the broad 
1 gauge turns W. for Viramgam and 
Kathiawar (Route ii). There is 
also a branch hne to the S.W. to 
Dholka (33 m.), passing Sarkhej 
(above) . 

The country going N. is flat and 
well cultivated. The beautiful 
and celebrated well at Adalaj is in 
I this direction, but can perhaps be 
more easily visited by road. 

353 m, Mehsana junction sta- 
tion. This is one of the most 
important railway centres in 
Gujarat, as it is the junction for 
three branch Unes constructed by 
the Gaekwar of Baroda. They 
are : (i) a line passing through 

Visnagar, Vadnagar, and Kheralu, 
total distance 27 m , general 
direction, N.E ; (2) a hne to 

Patan, the historic capital of 
Gujarat, distance 24 m. N.W. ; 
(3) a line to Viramgam, 40 m. S.W., 
made to connect the Raj pu tana 
and Kathiawar metre-gauge Unes 
of railway. (For Viramgam, see 
p. 200.) 

On these branch lines two places 
only need be noticed here. 

Vadnagar, 21 m. N.E. (popula- 
tion 11,228). This place, once 
very important as the site of 
Anandpura, is stated to have been 
conquered by a Rajput Prince 
from Ayodhya in 145 ad. There 
are some interesting ruins, in- 
cluding a very fine Kirtti Stambha 
gateway, and the Temple 0/ 
Hatkeswar JMahadeo is worth a 
visit. It is now the reUgious 
capital of the Nagar Brahmans, a 
most influential class of men in 
Gujarat and Kathiawar. It was 
long the chartered refuge of the 
Dhinoj Brahmans, a class of 
robbers who were protected and 



ROUTE lO. PATAN PALANPUR— -MOUNT ABU 


i8i 


taxed by successive native govern- 
ments down to quite a recent date. 

Patan, 24 m. X.W. of Mehsana 
(population 28,339). The cit}’ 
-tands on the site of the ancient 
Anhilvara, capital of the Hindu 
Kings of Gujarat, which was taken 
bv Mahmud of Ghazni on his way 
to attack the temple of Somnath 
in 1024 A.D. The site for genera- 
Ujns has been a quarry, whence 
beautiful carved stones have been 
carried to other places. It is still 
lamous for its libraries of Jain 
Mss. There are no less than 
to8 Jain temples here. 

->66 m. Unjtia station. A town 
in the Baroda territory, and the 
headquarters of the Kadwakanbis, 
n peculiar caste of agriculturists. 
Marriages among them take place 
but once in eleven years, when 
every girl over forty days old must 
be married on one or other of the 
days fixed. Should no husband 
be found, a proxy bridegroom 

sometimes set up and married 
to a number of girls, who immedi- 
ately enter a state of nominal 
v'ldowhood until an eligible suitor 
jiresents himself, when a second 
marriage takes place. 

o74 m. Sidhpur station (popula- 
tion 15,447). It stands on the 
^feep northern bank of the Saras- 
vati river, and the scene in the bed 
‘d the stream during the day in 
the dry weather is specially gay. 
Ibe place is of extreme antiquity, 
contains the ruins of Rudva 
one of the most famou.s 
^mcient temples in W. India. It 
wrecked by Ala-ud-din Khilji 
*ti 1297, a^ttd much of it has been 
t^^tried off since for building pur- 
P'-J^es. The stones are gigantic 
jtnd the carving superb, but very 
uttle of it remains. A row of 
^mail temples has been converted 
mto a mosque. The more modern 
temples are verv numerous Kadi . 
he N. division of Baroda, in 


, which Sidhpur is situated, is the 
I only part of the whole of the 
j Bombay Presidency in which 
j poppies are allowed to be grown, 
i The opium is manufactured in 
j Sidhpur at the State Stores. 

\ 390 m Palanpur station (R.. 

i D.B.). The chief town of a Native 
I State of that name, the residence 
j of a Political Agent. The Palan- 
j pur State has a total population 
I of 224,996, hartng an area of 
' 1766 sq. m., vdth a total revenue 
’ of Rs. 729, 199. It is a Muhamma- 
i dan state. [Railway N.W. to the 
' military station of Deesa, on the 
' river Banas, 18 m. distant.] 

I 

425 m. Abu Road station 
;R., D.B ), Well-built railway 
! quarters, -with small native town. 

Mount Abu looks down on it from 
! the N.W 

j The excursion to Mount Abu is 
] one of the most interesting in 
I India on account of the Jain 
temples. The ascent to it, 16^ m , 

! is by a good road, now practicable 
; for motor cars (cost Rs.34, per seat 
! Rs.6), which should be ordered 
beforehand by telegram : private 
tongas, Rs.io, seat in mail tonga, 
Rs.3, Sasr A bullock-cart for lug- 
gage costs Rs.3, as. 12. Rooms 
should be secured beforehand at 
; the Raj pu tana Hotel (accommoda- 
' tion for -fifty persons) or at the 
; Karandas Hotel. The Dilwarra 
I temples can be visited only in the 
I afternoon — pass necessary from the 
i ^lagistrate, Mount Abu. Though 
[ part of the Aravalli range, which 
runs up to Delhi, Abu is detached 
from that chain by a valley about 
15 m. wide. The plateau at the top 
! IS about 14 m. by 4 m.. and varies 
j in height from 4000 ft to 5600 ft. 

I Mount Abu (3800 it. above the 
} sea) is the headquarters of the Raj- 
j putana administration, and the re- 
I fiidence of vakils, or agents^from a 
! large number of Indian States. It 
I IS also a sanatorium for European 



ROUTE lO, BOMBAY TO MOUNT ABU AND DELHI 


India 


182 

troops and a iiot-weatlier resort in 
the summer season. 

At it are the Residency, Church, 
Lawrence Asylum Schools for chil- 
dren of soldiers, Barracks, Chib, 
Bazar of shops, and a consider- 
able number of private houses on 
the margin of the Kakki Lake — a 
most charming piece of artificial 
water studded with islands, and 
overhung by a curious rock that 
looks like a gigantic toad about to 
spring into the water A High 
School for children is outside the 
station on the plateau. The sur- 
face of Mount Abu is very much j 
broken up, and the carriage roads | 
are confined to the civil and mili- | 
tary station, but there are many 
bridle-roads and picturesque foot- 
paths. The views over the plains 
from various points are exceed- 
ingly fine. The most accessible is 
called Sunset Point, S. of the lake, 
having a good road to it. An 
attack was made on the place on 
2 1st August 1857 by mutineers 
trom the Erinpura force but was 
beaten ofi. 


The Dilwarra Temples, the great | 
attraction of Mount Abu, are [ 
reached by a good road (il [ 
m.). A pass to visit"^ them is j 
necessarv. 1 

In spite of ill-usage and some 
very bad restoration in parts, the 
Dilwarra temples are very beau- I 
titul, containing the fincs>t marble- i 
carving in- India : they find a ^ 
fitting framework in their nest of 1 
mango-trees, Math green fields of j 
barley waving at their feet and ; 
high hills surrounding them on all i 
sides. , 

“ The more modern of the two j 
temples is usually ascribed to the ! 
same brothers, Tejapala and | 
Vastupala, whose names are | 
associated with the triple temple | 
at Girnar ; 1 the inscriptions, how- | 
e.ver, ascribe the erection and ' 
endowment to Tejapala alone 

I See p. 210. 


This, we learn irom the inscrip- 
tion, was consecrated in 1230 a. d., 
and for minute delicacy of carving 
and beauty of detail stands almost 
unrivalled, even in the land of 
patient and lavish labour It is 
dedicated to Nemnath, the 22nd 
Tirthankar. 

“ The other, built by Vimala, 
a Minister or governor under 
Bhimadeva in the year 1031 a.d , 
is simpler and bolder, though still 
as elaborate as good taste would 
allow" in any purely architectural 
object. Being one of the oldest 
as well as one of the most com- 
plete examples knowm of a Jain 
temple, its peculiarities form a 
convenient introduction to the 
style, and serve to illustrate how" 
complete and perfect it had 
already become when we first 
meet with it in India. 

” The principal object here, as 
elsewhere, is a cell lighted only 
from the door, containing a cross- 
legged seated figure of the Jina 
to whom the temple is dedicated 
— in this instance Rishabhanath, 
or Adinath. The cell terminates 
upwards in a sikhara, or pyramidal 
roof, which in these Abu temples, 
however, are too low? to be 
properly designated spires To 
this, as in almost all instances, is 
attached a mandapam, or closed 
hall, and in front of this a portico, 
in this instance composed of forty- 
eight free - standing pillars ; and 
the wdiole is enclosed in an oblong 
cottrtyard, 128 ft. by 75 ft. inside, 
surrounded by a double colonnade 
of smaller pillars, forming porticoes 
to a range of cells, as usual fifty- 
two in number, with some extra 
chapels at the S.W. comer ; these 
enclose it on all sides exactly as 
they do in Buddhist viharas.' In 
this case, how^ever, each cell, in- 
stead of being the residence of a 
monk, is occupied by one of those 
cross-legged images of Jinas w'hich 
belong alike to Buddhism and 
Jainism Tn other religions there 
may be a great number of separate 
chapels attached to one building. 



ROUTE 10. ACHILGHAR ERINPURA ROAD 




but in no other would lifty-two 
be found, as in this example, each 
containing an image of a Tir- 
thankar, and all so nearly identical 
as to be almost undistinguishable. 
With the Jains it seems to be 
thought the most important point 
that the Jmas, or saints, are 
honoured by the number of their 
images, and that each principal 
image should be provided with a 
separate abode. The long beams, 
stretching from pillar to pillar, 
supporting the dome, are relieved 
by curious angular struts of white 
marble, which, springing from the 
lower capital, seem to support the 
middle of the beam." (Fergusson, 
Indian AYcliitecime, 2, 36-38 ) 


Achilghar is reached by follow- 
ing the road past Dihvarra for 
about 4 m. to the village of Una, 
where there is a bungalow. From j 
this a bad track turns right for , 
another t m to the first temple. ' 
It is surrounded by a wall, ap- ' 
proached by a flight of steps, and ' 
beautifully ornamented. S.E of I 
this are other temples on higher | 
ground overlooking the valley. I 
The view is magnificent. These I 
are the buildings seen on the , 
nght during the ascent from Abu , 
Koad. S. of the first temple is | 
^ large tank, generally empty. On 
the bank is a marble image of j 
Pramar with his bow, and near him i 
tliree large stone buffaloes pierced ' 
through the middle. The legend , 
IS that this tank was once filled ; 
With ghi, and these buffaloes came , 
every night to drink it up — till ! 
they were all shot through by one ; 
e>f Pramar 's arrows. This figure is j 
superior in style and treatment to j 
^ost , and the same may be said i 
the statues in other temples 
around the Hill of Abu, specially I 
of the brass figure at Gaumukh, 
alluded to below. The Achilghar 
group is perhaps as attractive as 
me more renowned temples at 
bilwarra, though not comparable 
m size or finish ; but the absence 


! of modern work, and an air of 
[ antiquity, solidity, and repose, 
j make them worthy of all admira- 
' tion. 

Other paths lead to the following 
sites ; the beaten way should not 
be left without a guide or person 
who knows the country intimately. 

Guyu SikhuY, {5650 ft above the 
sea), the highest point of Abu. A 
night should be spent at the Dak 
Bungalow at Una, near Achilghar 
(food and rugs must be brought), 
and the ascent made in the earl}^ 
morning, with a local guide. A 
small shrine marks the summit. 
The view is magnificent. 

Gauynukh, a beautifully situated 
temple 500 ft. down the S.E. 
slope and 3 m. from the church. 
There is a brass figure facing the 
temple. This place is famous for 
the Agni Kund, in which the five 
tribes of the Rajputs claim to have 
been created by the gods, in order 
to counteract the arrogance and 
tyranny of the Kshatryas. Tod 
wrongly located this Agni Kund at 
Achilghar). Gaumukh is reached 
by a path through the hills, behind 
the High School buildings, along 
the main road to the plains. 

Gautama, on S. side of the hill, 
W. of Gaumukh ; 5 m. from 

station. Lovely view. 

Rishi Krishna, at the foot of the 
hill, S.E. side, 14 m. fr()m the 
Civil Station, is easily visited from 
Abu Road Railway Station. 


476 m. from Bombay is Erinpura 
Road for the Cantonment of the 
Erinpura Irregular Force, lying 6 
m. \V. The Jodhpur legion there, 
in 1S57, mutinied on 23rd August, 
but spared its officers. Tw^o weeks 
later it defeated the troops of the 
Jodhpur State sent against them, 
and finally started for Delhi. It 
was intercepted on i6th October 
at Narnaul (p. 351), and defeated 
by Colonel Gerrard, who lost Ms 
hfe in the engagement. 

25 m. S.E. of the railway station 
IS the famous marble temple of 



ROUTE lO. BOMBAY TO JODHPUR AND DELHI 


Ind%a 


184 


Sadri, which is realh^ at Ram> 
pura, 5 m S. of Sadri, built by the 
Kumbha Rana in 1440, in a lonely 
and deserted glen running into the 
western slope of the hills below 
Kumbha’s favourite fort of Kanal- 
mer. ‘'Notwithstanding former 
neglect, it is still nearly perfect, 
and is probably the most compli- 
cated and extensive Jain temple 
in India, and the most complete 
for the ritual of the sect ” {Fer- 
gusson, Ind. Arch., 2, 45-6). It 
can be visited only by riding, and 
with the assistance of the officer 
commanding at Erinpura. It is 
open to the public, but if pre^dous 
intimation is received, the Darbar 
Hakim stationed at Bah can afford i 
facilities. It is under contempla- 
tion to connect this part of the 
country by railway. 

528 m. from Bombay is Marwar 
railway junction station. 

Route to Hyderabad, Sind, and 
Excursion to Jodhpur. 

From this point the Jodhpur- 
Bikanir Railway branches E. to 
(44 m.) Limi junction, from which 
a line 309 m. (to Hyderabad) long 
runs to Balotra junction (30 m.) for 
the salt-works at Pachbadra (100 
m. farther on), and on through a 
desolate country to Hyderabad 
Sind in 15 J hours, and to Karachi 
(420 m. from Luni junction) in 21 
hours. The through journey from 
Bombay to Karachi (992 m.) takes 
44 hours. A refreshment car is 
now attached to the trains on this 
hne, which forms the most direct 
railway route between Bombay and 
Karachi (steamers between these 
places take 38 hours) . 

^ On the other branch (ivliich riin& 

N. to Jodhpur- Bikanir, etc.) many 
miles before reaching Jodhpur the 
fort can be distinguished rising 
abruptly out of the bare plain 

64 m. from Marwar junction is 
JODHPUR station (D.B ), the capital 


; of the Rajput State of that name, 
i and of the country known as Mar- 
: war ; it is the residence of the Chief 
and of a Resident. Permission can 
be had from the Resident to see the 
; fort. There is a good D.B. near the 
railway station, and carriages and 
I a motor car are available on hire 
j to see the sights of the city and 
I its neighbourhood. 

I The State of Jodhpur, or Marwar, 

I covers an area of 35,000 sq. m., 

: with a population of 2,100,000 ; 

' the revenue of the State is over 
I So lakhs The present Chief is 
Major His Highness Raj Rajesh- 
war Maharajadhiraja Sumer Singh 
Bahadur, K. B.E. The State was 
founded from Kanauj, after the de- 
feat of the Rathors there in 1211. 
The city was built by Rao Jodha in 
1459, and from that time has been 
the seat of Government. Maha- 
raja Udai Singh, of the Jodhpur 
House, and his grandson, Maha- 
raja Gaj Singh, were leading nobles 
at the Court of the Emperors 
Akbar and Jahangir ; and Maha- 
raja Jaswnnt Singh commanded 
the armies of Shah Jahan and 
Dara Shikoh against the forces of 
Princes Aurangzeb and Murad in 
1658, and died in Kabul, com- 
manding the Imperial Forces there. 

The city (population 59,262) 
stands on the S. end of a range of 
sandstone hills running E. and W., 
and is surrounded by a strong w^ali 
nearly 6 m. in extent, with seven 
gates, each bearing the name of 
the towm to which it leads. Some 
i of the houses and temples in the 
city are of stone richly carved. 
Amongst the most important 
buddings are the Temple in the 

\ Dhan Mandi (grain market), and 
the Talaiit Mahal, an old palace 
now used as the Jasw^ant Female 
Hospital. 

I Ihe Fort stands up boldly some 
1 400 ft. above the city and the 
! plain, and presents a magnificent 
i appearance. The rock is on every 
i side scarped, but especially at the 
i S. end, where the palace is built 


ROUTE lO. 


JODHPUR 


on the edge of a perpendicular ' 
clifi at least 120 ft. high. Strong 
walls and numerous round and 
square towers encircle the crest of 
the hill. A modern engineered 
road winds up the neighbouring 
slopes to a massive gateway. 
Here is the first of seven barriers 
thrown across the zigzag ascent, 
having immense portals with 
separate guards at each. On the 
wall of the last are represented the 
hands of fifteen widow's of the 
Maharajas, %vho underwent safi at 
their deaths. 

At the top of the rock are the 
highly interesting Old Palaces. 
There are courtyards w'ithin court- 
yards, all solidly built and sur- 
rounded by lattice window's of the 
most delicate and beautifuidesigns. . 
Here in the Treasnvy are the 
-Maharaja’s jew'els — a wonderful j 
collection, and well w'orth seeing. 
Some of the pearls, emeralds, and 
diamonds are unusually fine. The 
silver trappings for elephants and , 
horses should also be noticed. ' 
The view from the palace windows | 
IS most interesting and extensive, 
and shows the town nestling under 
the huge rock. 

There w'as formerly great scar- 
city of water in the fort, and the 
W'omen had daily to walk all the 
'cay to JMandor (see p. 1&6) to 
fetch it, but now it is brought up 
to the top of the fort in pipes 
There is a well in the fort 450 ft 
deep. The principal Tanks are — 
the Padam Sagar Tank, in the 
^•W. part of the city, exca^*ated 
out of the rock, but of small size , 
m the same quarter is the Rani 
^agar, at the foot of the W. 
entrance into the fort, wdth which 
d is connected by outworks, and 
IS chiefly reserved for the garrison 
^nd ladies residing in the fort, 
the Giilab Sugar, to the E., is 
handsomely built of stone, and is 
capacious, with a smaller one 
3 -djoining it ; the Baiji ka Talao, 
b. of the city, is extensive, but 
^ot capable of holding water long . 
‘rntside the city i m. W. is a lake 


185 

called Akherajji ka Talao, 'which is 
a fine sheet of water — clear, deep, 
and extensive, resembling rather a 
natural lake than an artificial tank. 
The Kailana Tank, close to the 
last-named, is the largest of all, 
with a capacity of 135 million c. ft. 
of water. The project owes its 
conception to Sir Pertab, and is 
now the greatest storage of drink- 
ing-water m Jodhpur. Farther N . 
is the old Residency, a fortified 
mansion among the hills. 3 m. N. 
of the city is the BaTSamand, a 
pretty tank, with a palace on the 
embankment and garden belowg 
used by the ^laharaja as a summer 
residence. The canal from it to 
the city is a work of much im- 
portance. 

The chief sport near Jodhpur is 
pig-sticking, the pigs being pre- 
served by the Maharaja. 

S.E. of the Cl tv are the Raika- 
toagh Palace, where H.H. Maharaja 
Sir Jasw'ant Singh resided, and the 
Jubilee Buildings, or pubhc offices, 
near it, designed by Colonel Sir S. 
Jacob in the Indian style. They 
are extensive and beautiful, and 
deserve attention 

The palace of the present Chief 
IS 2 m farther S., at Ratanada. 

The Public Gardens and fine 

one houses of the officials have 
ow replaced the barren tract that 
rormerlv bounded the city on the 
S. side. These and many other 
improvements, w'hich have re- 
sulted in more than doubhng the 
State revenue, bear the impress of 
the untiring energy and reforming 
zeal of the late Pnme Minister, 
H.H. Lieu tena nt - General Mahara j a 
Sir Pertab Singhji Sahib Bahadur, 
G.C.S.I., G.C.V.O., G.C.B., LL.D., 
D.C.L., A.D.C., afterwards Maha- 
raja of Idar, but since May 1911 
Regent of Jodhpur State during 
the mmonty of the present 
Chief, H.H. Maharaja Sumei 
Smgh Bahadur. Sir Pertab, the 
soldier-.statesman, is the grand- 



i86 


ROUTE 10. BOMBAY TO JODHPUR AND DELHI 


India 


uncle of the present Maharaja. 
For the love that he bears for the 
Jodhpur State, though it involved 
a considerable sacriftce, he abdi- 
cated the Gadi of Idar in favour of 
ins son, for the purpose of assum- 
ing the high ofhce of Regent, so 
that during the minority of the 
young Maharaja the schemes 
which he had inaugurated during 
liis tenure as Prime Minister, and 
for which Jodhpur has become one 
of the premier States of Rajputana, 
might mature, and the improve- 
ment thus set in might be steadil}* 
maintained. 

On the breaking-out of the 
European War in 1914, both the 
young Maharaja and the Regent 
offered, with the Jodhpur Imperial 
Ser\dce Lancers, their services to 
take active part in the struggle. 
On their offers being accepted they 
started for the seat of war, where 
the Jodhpur Lancers were still 
lighting in 1917. The young 
Maharaja was invested with full 
administrative powers in 191b, 
when the Regency terminated. Sir 
Pertab Singh ji was still, in 1917, at 
the front, at the head of the 
Lancers. 

At about I m. outside the N.E. 
angle of the City is a small walled 
town of 800 houses, called the 
Mahamandir, or great temple/’ 
The roof of the temple is supported 
by 100 pillars, and the interior is 
richly decorated. This town is 
defended by a stone wall, with a 
few bastions. In it are two pal- 
aces, in one of which the descend- 
ants of the spiritual adviser of the 
late Maharaja Man Singh live. 
The other is reserved for the spirit 
ot his predecessor, whose bed is laid 
out in a state chamber, with a 
golden canopy over the pillow, and 
has no living occupant. The 
priests, called Naths, have lost 
nearly all their former prestige. 

Mandor. — This was the capital 
of Mar war before the foundation 
of Jodhpur. It is situated about 


5 m. to the N. of Jodhpur. The 
j place is entered through a gate, 
i which encloses a well-kept garden, 
used as a picnic ground. To the 
right are some of the ChhatHs, or 
cenotaphs of the former rulers, 
erected on the spots where the 
funeral pyres consumed their re- 
mains. Some are fine, massive 
buildings, that dedicated to A jit 
(died 1724) being the largest 
and finest. These “ proud monu- 
ments,’' as Colonel Tod calls them,^ 
are built of “ a close-grained free- 
stone of a dark brown or red tint, 
vdth Sufficient hardness to allow 
the sculptor to indulge his fancy. 
The style of architecture here is 
mixed, partaking both of the 
Sai\fite and the Buddhist, but the 
. details are decidedly Jain, more 
especially the columns ” CJn the 
lelt of the entrance road is a pan- 
I theon called the Shnne of the 
300,000,000 gods, containing a row 
' of gigantic painted figures of divin- 
ities and heroes. At the end of the 
1 long building where these figures 
■ are arranged is a curious fresco of a 
sea-piece. Near this is the stone 
palace of Abhay Singh, who suc- 
ceeded Ajit Singh in 1724. It is 
now quite deserted. There are 
some fine bits of trelUs screen- work 
m the garden. By passing through 
the garden and climbing up a 
broken flight of steps, the rocky 
plateau is reached, the site of the 
ancient city. It is covered with 
heaps of debris, in the midst of 
which is a large ruined temple. 
Further on are a shabby Moslem 
shrine, and beyond this a group of 
Chhairis of the relations of the an- 
..ient Chiefs. Some are fallen into 
rum. Beyond are the Panch K and, 
or five small tanks, recessed natur- 
ally in the rock. Otherwise, little 
of the old city has left any trace 
behind. 

123 m. \V. of Jodhpur lies 
Jaisalmer, the capital of the Bhati 
Rajputs of the western desert, 

1 l' ur full details see Colonel Tod's 
than 



route io. 


BIKANER 


founded by Jaisal in 1156 a.d. It 
IS iamous for buildings constructed 
of yellow - brown stone, and for 
its handsome Jam temples. It is 
only accessible by camel. 

12S m. from Marwar junction is 
Merta Road junction for Bikaner 
and Bhatmda. Merta, a fortified 
tlarwar town of some importance, 
lb 9 m. away and connected by a 
branch line of railway from Merta 
City Station. Xear this town was 
lought a decisive battle between 
die IMahrattas and Rajputs, in 
which the former, with the treach- 
erous assistance of a large body oi 
I’indaris under Amir Khan, in- 
dicted a crushing defeat upon the 
latter. Xear the station is an en- 
Jain monaster one of the 
most famous for sanctitv. 


Excursion to Bikaner 

m. from Merta Road is 
Nagaur. A fortified town of im- 
portance in iMarwar (population 
. 5 d,ooo). The crenellated wall, 
houses, and groups of temples 
make an agreeable break in the 
monotonous desert 

107 m. from Merta Road is 
Bikaner, the capital of the Bikaner 
'^tate in Rajputana. The city was 
founded in 14S8 by Bika, second 
j'Oii of Rao Jodha, of the royal 
house of Jodhpur, a Rajput of 
the famous Rather clan, from 
whom the present house oi 
Bikaner is descended. 

^lajorTieneral H.H. Maharaja 
bir Ganga Singh Bahadur, G.C.S I., 
R.C.TE., K.C.B., A.DC., TL.D., 
was born in 1880, and came to the 
Gadi in 1887. 

The State has an area of about 
'.3,000 sq. m., and a population 
of about 700,000. The Bikaner 
country consists largely of desert, 
3 -nd water is only found at a depth 
T50 ft. to 300 ft. The popiila 
Uon IS chiefly agncultural, and a 


187 

fine breed oi sheep, much valued 
for their wool, is produced. The 
Bikaner camels are well known, 

I and the State Camel Corps dis- 
' tmguished itself in China under 
the command of the Maharaja in 
1900, and in Somahland in 1903-4. 
It was also sent to Egypt during 
the Warm 1914-15. The chmate 
in the cold months is extremely 
I dry and invigorating. In the city 
: Itself and in the large towns reside 
, numbers of wealthy Marwan mer* 

! chants, who have business connec- 
j tions all over India 
j Bikaner is connected with 
I Bhatmda (201 m ) and Merta 
[ Road (107 m ) b}’ the Jodhpur- 
I Bikaner Railway. A branch line 
I hcLs also been constructed to Rat- 
; angarh (84-79 m.). The State is 
f also intersected by the Degana- 
I Hissar section of the Jodhpur- 
j Bikaner Railway The Private 
I Secretary to the INIaharaja should 
i be addressed for leave to visit the 
palace. 

The city is situated on an eleva- 
tion, and has an imposing appear- 
ance, being surrounded by a 
battlemented wall, and possessing 
many fine buildings. It is the 
fourth largest city in Rajputana. 

; The stone carving with which many 
' of the houses are faced is unique. 

! The Fort, containing the old 
I palaces, lying to the X E,. outside 
! the city, was begun in the i6th 
! century by Raja Rai Singh, It is 
1 107S yds. in circuit, and the \new 
iroin outside is picturesque in the 
, extreme. The palace buildings 
are the work of successive rulers, 

I and are oi e\'ery style and period. 

! Am ong the finest are the Chaubara, 
j erected by Raja Rai Singh; the 
' Phul INIahal, the Chandra JMahal, 

. the (iaj Mandir, and the Kach- 
I cheri — all built by Maharaj Gaj 
I Singh; and specially the Anup 
Mahal, dating from the time of 
Maharaja Surat Singh, and the 
Che tar Mahal and Cinni Burj of 
Maharaja Dungar Singh, and the 
beautiful audience hall, called the 
Ganga Xiwas, built by the present 



ROUTE lO. BOMBAY TO BIKAXER AND DELHI 


India 


1 88 

Maharaja, the last being an ex- 
quisitely proportioned room of 
finely carved red sandstone. 

The Fort also contains a fine 
library of Sansjkrit and Persian 
books, and a valuable armoury of 
ancient European and Eastern 
arms and armour. 

Facing the Fort is the fine Public 
Park, which has been recently 
constructed, containing interesting 
memorials to various persons who 
have been connected with the 
State in the past and in recent 
times. There are also many fine 
modern buildings in the suburbs, 
among which the Dungar Memorial 
College, the (Walter) Nobles’ 
School, the King Edward Memorial 
Road, and the temples completed 
by the present Maharaja, may be 
specially marked. Outside the 
city the principal buildings are the 
Maharaja’s new Palace, called Lal- 
garh, a magnificent edifice of carved 
red sandstone, designed by the late 
Sir Swinton Jacob, the Victoria 
Memorial Club, the Public Offices, 
the King-Emperor’s Hall — built to 
commemorate the visit to Bikaner 
of the present King, when Prince 
of Wales — the Ganga Risala Camel 
Corps Lines, and a large hospital 

5 m. to the E. of the city is 
Devikund, where the Chhains 
(cenotaphs) of the rulers of 
Bikaner are situated - 

Other objects of intere:5t are 
Bandasar, a Jain temple m the 
S.W. corner of the city, and dating 
from before its foundation. A well, 
450 ft. deep, near the Fort, now 
pumped by electrical power, which 
also lights the whole camp and 
suburbs ; and Nagrechiji, 2 m S., 
containing an eighteen - armed 
image, a relic of Kanauj. 

A visit to the carpet and other 
manufactories at the Central Jail, 
for which Bikaner is now famous, 
should also be paid. 


By returning to Merta, the 111am 
line N.E. may be resumed. 


201 m. from Mar war junction is 
Kuchaman Road. From here a 
branch of the Rajputana Mahwa 
Railway runs on ('20 m j to Phalera. 

Between Kuchaman Road and 
Piialera is the Sambhar Lake, on 
the border of the Jaipur and Jodh- 
pur States The surrounding coun- 
try is arid and sterile, being com- 
posed of rocks abounding in salt, 
and belonging to the Permian 
system ; and the salt of the lake 
comes from the washing of these 
rocks. ^ The bottom is tenacious 
black mud resting on loose sand. 
The lake is 21 m. long from E. to 
W. after the rains, and the average 
breadth at that time is 5 m. from 
N. to S. , and the depth, i m. from 
the shore, is only 2^ ft. The 
water dries up from October to 
June, and leaves about an inch of 
salt in the enclosures, which are 
constructed only where the black 
mud is of considerable thickness. 

From the 17th century the salt 
was worked by the Jaipur and 
Jodhpur Governments conjointly 
till 1870, when the British Govern- 
ment became lessee of both States. 
The works are on the E and N. 
edges ot the lake. The average 
yearly out-turn is from 300,000 
to 400,000 tons of salt, and the 
cost of storage and extraction is 
|d. for every 82= ibs When the 
salt is formed men and women of 
the Barrar caste wade through 
the mud and lift it in large cakes 
into baskets, m which* it is 
brought to the depots on the 
lake side. 

T3O m. from Marwar junction is 
Phalera station, N, , junction of C.I. 
and J B. Railways (p. 192). 


Proceeding from Marwar junc- 
tion (p 1 84) along the main line 
towards Ajm^r. after leaving 

33 m from Marwar junction, 561 
m. from Boniba\ , Haripur station 



ROUTE lO. 


AJMER 


(D.B.), t2ie line engages in a rocky 
R'^cent, which continues to close to 

5S2 m. from Bombay, 54 m. from 
Marwar junction, Bea\far station 
(D.B.), an important town, and 
reaches 


615 m, from Bombay AJMER 
junction station (D.B ), lat. 
26° 87', long. 74° 44^ [From this 
place a line runs S. to Kasira- 
bud, Chiiorgarh Nimach, Raflayn, 
Indore, jMhow, and Khwyidwa (see 
Koute 8) j 

Ajmer, the key to Raj pu tana 
ipopulation 86,222), is the capital 
01 an isolated Bntish iJistrict in the 
iv.ijput States. The District com- 
prises two tracts known as Ajmer 
and Merwara (population 501,395). 
ihe Agent of the Governor- 
GeneraD for Rajputana, whose 
Meadquarters are at Abu, is , 
^I'OjjiciG Chiet Commissioner ot ' 
Ajmer. The city is of great anti- 
quity and celebrity, and is situated 
ill a valley, or rather basin, at the 
njot oi the rocky and picturesque 
Taragarh HiU (3000 ft. above the 
^ea) It IS surrounded by a stone 
rvaii with live gateway::^, and is ' 
'^eli built, containing many fine ' 
douses of stone ^vith ornamental : 
la^ades Ajmer was founded in ' 
T45 AD. by Ajaypal, one of the ; 
Chauhan Kings. It was sacked in 
1024 by Mahmud of Ghazni, on 
lus way to Soinnath in Kathiawar, 
taken again by the Muhammadans , 
in 1200, and finally conquered by ; 
Akbar in 1556. 

The memory of the Ajmer 
Chishti was field in particular 
respect by the great Akbar, who 
ivas accustomed to pay a yearly . 
i-isit to his shrine. Several of 
these pilgrimages w'ere made on , 
foot from Agra and other places 
The road from Fatehpur-Sikri to ; 
Ajmer was so much used by Akbar 
that lie caused Kos Minars 

^ The Hon, Sir Elliot G. Coi\in. K.C.S.I. 
n 1Q17. 


189 

(masonry columns answering to 
our milestones) to be erected along 
the route. Several of these minars 
can still be seen from the railw^ay 

Thomas Coryat, in the 17th 
century, walked from Jerusalem to 
Ajmer, and spent £2, los. on the 
journey. Sir Thomas Roe, the 
Ambassador of James I., gives an 
account of the city in 1615-16. In 
about 1720 Ajit Singh Rathor 
seized the city, which was re- 
covered by Muhammad Shah, and 
made over by him to Abhay 
Singh. His son. Ram Singh, called 
in the Tvlahrattas, under Jai Appa 
Scindia, who, however, was mur- 
dered, and in 1756 Ajmer was 
made over to Bijax Singh, cousin 
of Ram Singh. In 1787 the 
Rathors recovered Ajmer, but 
after their defeat at Patan had to 
surrender it again to Sindhia. On 
the 25th of June 1818 Daulat Rao 
Scindia made it over by treaty 
to the English. 

Ajmer is the headquarters of 
about iSoo m. of metre-gauge 
railway, worked by the B.B. and 
C.I Railway Company. Near the 
railway station are very exten- 
sive worksnops employing many 
thousand Hindu and Muham- 
madan workmen, who accomphsh 
their tasks with a Avonder fully 
small amount of European super- 
vision. 


The Residency is on the brink of 
the beautiful artificial lake called 
the Ana Sagar, constructed by 
Raja Ana in the middle of the 
nth century, and lying N. of the 
city and railwav station. It forms 
the source of the River Luni, which 
finally unites with the Delta of the 
Indus. The Emperor Shah Jahan 
erected a noble range of marble 
pavilions on the embankment. 
They were long the only public 
offices in Ajmer, and the chief one, 
in which the Emperor often reposed, 
was used as the official residence 
of the Commissioner. They have 
now all been restored by direction 



ROUTE lO. BOMBAY TO AJMER AND DELHI 


India 


too 

of Lord Curzon. The walk along 
the band, or embankment (which 
is public), is very delightful- To 
the W. is the broad expanse of the 
lake, and to the E., under the band, 
is the Public Garden. The city is 
supplied with water from the new 
lake, the Foy Sagar, formed by 
an embankment throvv'n across the 
valley 3 m. higher up. 

Akhar's Palace is inside the city, 
near the E. wall. The entrance 
gate is very fine. It was once an 
arsenal, and then used as a tahsil 
building. The central pavilion 
has been repaired, and is now used 
as the local museum. 

The mosque, called the Arliai- 
din-ka-jiioEpra, or “ The Hut of 
two and a half Days/' is just out- 
side the S-W. city gate, beyond 
the Dargah. The name is derived 
from a tradition that it was built 
supernaturally in two and a half 
days. It seems to have originally 
been a Jain College, built in 1153 
It was damaged by the Afghans in 
1192, and turned into a mosque by 
building a massive screen or facade 
of seven arches in front of the 
many -pillared hall. This work was 
done by Kutb-ud-din in about 
1200. The rows of slender pillars 
are probably in situ. Their orna- 
mentation IS very complex, no two 
being alike. The mosque is sadly 
ruined, and only part of the screen 
of arches (200 ft. long), and part of 
the Jam hall behind them, now 
remain, the whole of the other 
three sides of the enclosure having 
disappeared. The work has re- 
cently been repaired and is under 
Government protection. The 
mosque was very much larger than 
that at the Kutb near Delhi (p. 
275), the measurements of the ex- 
tenor being 172 ft. by 264 ft., and 
of the interior quadrangle 200 ft. 
by 175 ft. The mosque proper 
measures 259 ft. by 57 ft., and has 
ten domes in the roof borne by 
124 columns. The screen in front of 


it is a work well deserving atten- 
tion ; it is the glory of the mosque, 
and consists of seven arches very 
similar to those with which 
Altamsh adorned the courtyard of 
the Kutb. In the centre the 
screen rises to a height of 56 ft., 
and at the corners above tliis 
arch rise two short minarets with 
Tughra inscriptions. Nothing can 
exceed the taste with which the 
Kufic and Tughra inscriptions are 
interwoven with the more purely 
architectural decorations and the 
constructive lines of the design. 

The bndle-path to Taragarh 
. passes this mosque, and by a 
' steep ascent reaches the summit in 
2 m. The view from the top is 
i very fine ; but the ascent is some- 
what trying, and had better be 
: made in the early morning. There 
'* is also an interesting graveyard of 
I Muhammadan martyrs, who fell in 
; the assault ol the fort on the top. 

I One of the principal points of 
interest in Ajmer is the Dargah, 
— a most picturesque place — in 
the S.W. corner of the city which 
was commenced by the Emperor 
I Altamsh and completed by Huma- 
I yun. It is venerated alike by 
I Muhammadans and Hmdus, and 
[ derives its extreme sanctity from 
I being the burial-place of Khwaja 
I Muin-ud-din Chishti, who was 
j called Aftab-i-Mulk-i-Hind, the 
1 Sun of the Realm of India. He 
i died in 633 A.H.=ri233 a.d. He 
I was the son of Khwaja 'Usman, 
j and was called Chishti from a quar- 
1 ter in the city" of San jar in Persia, 
j Of this family of saints and cour- 
j tiers, Farid-ud-din is buried at Pak- 
I pattan, in the Pan jab ; Nizam-ud- 
j din, Kutb-ud-din, and Nasir-ud- 
! din at or near Delhi ; Shaik Salim 
, at Fatehpur-Sikri near Agra ; and 
i Banda Nawaz at Gulbarga in the 
Deccan. 

Woollen slippers are supplied to 
j be worn over the visitor's boots be- 
fore entering the Dargah. Passing 
through a lofty gateway, a court- 
yard is entered, in which are two 
I very large iron cauldrons. Rich 



ROUTE ro. 


AJMER 


pilgrims and other rich Muhamma- 
dans who have not visited Ajmer, 
pay for a feast of nee, ghi, sugar, 
almonds, raisins, and spices, to be 
cooked in one of these, the con- 
tents being ladled out and finalh’ 
scrambled for by various families 
connected with the shrine, who 
live near the Dargah m a quarter 
known as Inderkot, and have a 
right to perform the ceremony 
called '' looting the deg/' which 
they do forcibl}'. On the right 
of the courtyard is a mosque built 
by Akbar, with drums and candle- 
sticks taken from the army of the 
famous Daud Dhan Sultan of Ben- 
gal, and presented to the mosque 
by Akbar ; and farther on in 
the inner court is a white marble 


191 

At the S. end of the Dargah 
enclosure is the Jhalra, a deep tank 
partly cut out of the rock, and lined 
by steep flights of irregular steps. 
As at Fatehpur Sikri, the doors of 
the shrine are covered with votive 
horse -shoes, nailed there by horse- 
dealers to commemorate successful 
deals. There are several doors in 
the precincts of the Dargah which 
are plated with silver. 

S.E. of the city is the Mayo 
College, for the education of young 
Rajput Princes, opened by Lord 
Northbrook in 1875, It contains 
about one hundred and fifty boys 
between the ages of eight and 
twenty-one years. The central 
building is a handsome white 
marble pile ; in front of it is a 



The Arhai-din-ka-jhonpra Mosque at Ajmer. 


niosque, 100 ft. long, and with 
eleven arches to the front, built by 
Shah Jahan ; a Persian inscription 
runs along the whole front under 
the eaves. In the centre of the 
■second court, and opposite the 
uiarble mosque, is the Tomb of the 
''amt, a square building of white 
marble surmounted by a dome. It 
hds two entrances, one of which is 
spanned by a silver arch. S. of it 
m a small enclosure with well-cut 
marble lattices, is the Mazar, or 
" grave " of Hafiz Jamal, daughter 
^f the saint, and W. of it, close by 
tomb, is that of Chimmi Be- 
§am, daughter of Shah Jahan, 
All these are considered too sacred 
to be approached by any one ex- 
•''ept Muhammadans, There are 
some very fine trees in the en- 
closure. 


statue of Lord ^laym. The subsid- 
iary buildings have been erected by 
various States as hostels for the 
pupils from each State. Perhaps 
nowhere else in India is so much 
good modern native architecture 
to be seen as here. The park 
round the buildings comprises 
200 acres. 


The sacred Lake of Pushkar lies 
about 7 m. W. of Ajmer. 

The road skirts the W. shore of 
the Ana Sagar, and at 3 m. passes 
the village of Nausar, in a gap in 
the hills which divide the Ana 
Sagar from the Pushkar valleys. 
This striking pass through the 
hills is I m. long. Pushkar, the 
most sacred lake in India, hes in 
a narrow valley overshadowed by 



192 


ROUTE TO. BOMBAY TO JAIPUR AND DELHI 


India 


tine rocky hills, and is said to be 
of miraculous origin, marking the ' 
spot hallowed by the great -sacritice i 
of Brahma. Already in the 4th 1 
century it was one of the most 
frequented objects of pilgrimage, 
and is still visited during the great 
tnela (fair) of October and Novem- ; 
ber by about 100,000 pilgrims. 1 
On this occasion is also held a 
great mart for horses, camels, and 
bullocks. ' 

Although the ancient temples j 
were destroyed by Aurangzeb, the 
five modern buildings, with their ! 
ghats on the margin of the lake, | 
are highly picturesque. That to i 
Brahma, at the further end of } 
the lake, is usually said to be the ! 
only one in India ; but there are j 
smaller shrines to Brahma at | 
several old temples. Over the ; 
gateway is the figure of the hans, ' 
or “ goose,"' of Brahma. The i 
D.B. is in a native house on the | 
lake, from which there is a good j 
view. j 

! 

658 m. from Bombay is Naraina t 
station. The village, with a large | 
tank, is seen from the railway. ' 
It is the headquarters of the | 
Dadupanthi sect of reformers. ; 
Their rehgion, ethics, and teach- i 
ing are embodied in a mass of | 
poetry written by one Padu and . 
his disciples. A division of the 
sect is composed of military monks, ; 
who serve in the armies of the ' 
Jaipur and neighbouring States. j 

664 m. from Bombay is Piialera 
junction (p. i 3 S). 

A direct chord line, 134 m. long, ' 
runs from Phalera to Rew^ari (p. 
35i)» while to the W. a branch 
runs to Kuchaman Road and on to 
Merta, Bikaner, Jodhpur and IMar- 
war junction. 

^ 699 m. from Bombay is 
JAIPUR station sk (population ; 
137^098), much frequented by 1 
tourists, and furnished with two ' 
good hotels and a Pak. Bungalow. 


Passes to view the palace at Jaipur, 
and also the old palace at Amber, 
must be obtained from the Resid- 
ent at Jaipur 24 hours beforehand. 
(The landlords at the hotels obtain 
the passes.) Carriages for Amber, 
etc., are available. Amber is the 
ancient capital, Jaipur the modern; 
it is the residence of the Maharaja, 
whose State covers nearly 15,600 
sq. m., with a population of 
2,660,000, and yields a revenue of 
72 lakhs, and the headquarters of 
the Resident. The present Chief, 
who is head of the Kachhwaha 
clan of Rajputs, is Major-General 
H.H. Maharajadhiraja Sawai Sir 
Madho Singh, G.C.S.I,, G.C.I.E. 
G.C.V.U., G.B.E., LL.P Jaipur 
derives its name from the famous 
Mahara j a Sawai ^ Jai Singh II . ( 1 699- 
1743), who founded it in 1728. This 
Chief stood by the son of Prince 
Azim Shah in the struggle for the 
Empire on the death of Aurangzeb, 
and drove the Mughals out of 
Jaipur ; he died in 1743 after a 
very long reign. The town is 
surrounded on the N. and E by 
rugged hills, crowned with forts. 
That at the end of the ridge over- 
hanging the city on the X.W. is the 
Nahargarh, or "Tiger fort.’^^The 
face of the ridge is scarped and in- 
accessible on the S. or city side, 
while on the N. it slopes towards 
Amber. * 

A crenellated wall, with seven 
gateways, encloses the whole city, 
ivhich is the pleasant healthy capi- 
tal of one of the most prosperous 
independent States of Rajputana, 
and is a very busy and important 
commercial town, with large banks 
and other 'trading establishments. 
It is a centre of native manufac- 
tures, especially those of many 
kinds of jewellery and of coloured 
printed cloths and muslins. The 
enamel-work done here is the best 
in India, and the cutting and set- 
ting of garnets and other stones 


1 Saw 31 means il, and was a compli- 
mentary title given to Jai Singh by the 
Emperor of Delhi, 



ROUTE 10. JAIPUR 


193 


lound m the State is an important 
industry. The crowded streets 
and bazars are most lively and pic- 
turesque, The city is remarkable 
for the width and regularity of its 
main streets. It is laid out in 
rectangular blocks, and is divided 
by cross streets into six equal por- 
tions, The mam streets are 1 1 1 ft. 
wide, and are paved, and the city 
IS lighted by gas-^ At the bottom 
of the street facing the Tripoha 
there is a line collection of tigers, 
most of vrhich are said to have 
been man-eaters. 


The Maharaja's Palace, with its 
beautiful gardens and pleasure- , 
grounds, ^ m. long, adorned with i 
fountains, fine trees, and flowering ; 
shrubs, occupies the centre of the . 
city and covers one -seventh of its * 
area. The whole is surrounded ^ 
by a high embattled wall, built 1 
by Jai Singh, but many of the 
buildings included in it are of a ; 
later date. The Chandra Mahal, 
which forms the centre of the 
great palace, is a lofty and strik- 
building, seven storeys high, 
looking over the gardens. On Qie 
top storey there is a magnificent 
View over the Centre city. To the 
left are the gaudily - furmshed 
modern buildings containing the 
^partments of the Maharaja and 
ms courtiers and the zenana. 
Close by, to the right, on the 
ground floor, is the Diwan-i-Khas, ' 
or private hall of audience, built I 
partly of white marble, and re- ! 
markable even in India, for its 
^oble simplicity. I 

E- of the Chandra Mahal is the ; 
lamous J antra ( Yantra), or Ohserva- i 
“Oiy , the largest of the five built by i 
me celebrated royal astronomer, . 
Singh, at Benares, Muttra, , 
Ujjain, and here. It is not : 
^nder cover, but is an open court- j 
yard full of curious and fantastic | 

1^‘phng by Rudyard 


instruments invented and designed 
by him. It was constructed 
between 1718-34 a.d., and has 
been recently restored by the 
Maharaja of Jaipur through the 
agency of Lieutenant A. Garret, 
R.E., and Pandit Chandradhar 
Guieri, who have published a 
most interesting monograph upon 
it. The principal instruments are, 
first on the W., the two circular 
Ram Yantras for reading altitudes 
and azimuths, with twelve hori- 
zontal sectors of stone radiating 
from a round vertical rod ; then 
E. of these, the twelve Rashiva- 
' layas for determining celestial 
latitudes and longitudes ; and 
next, the great Samrat Yantra, 
or gnomon, go ft. high, situated 
between two graduated quadrants, 
with sextants in a chamber outside 
them. The gnomon's shadow 
thrown by the sun touches the W. 
quadrant at 6 a.m., gradually 
descends this at the rate of 13 ft. 
per hour till noon, and finally 
ascends the E. quadrant. To the 
N. of this is a Dakhshina Bhitti 
Yantra, or meridional vrall, near 
which is a large raised platform 
I known as Jai Singh's seat, and 
j near it are two brass circles, one of 
! which is a map of the celestial 
* sphere. Between these and the 
I Ram Yantras are a number of 
, other instruments, known as the 
I Kranti Yantra, the Kapali, and 
! the Chakra Yantra, the last being 
a graduated brass circle corre- 
sponding to the modern equatorial. 
For further details regarding the 
Observatory, reference must be 
made to the above pubhcatibn. 

S.W. of the Observatory, and 
adjoining the Tnpolia Gate, are 
the royal Stables, built round large 
courtyards ; and beyond them, 
towards the E., is the Hawa Mahal, 
or Hail of the Winds, built by 
Madho Singh I., a fantastic and 
elaborate building, decorated with 
stucco, and overlooking one of 
the chief streets of the town. 

In the central court of the palace 
are the Clock Tower and the 


N 



ROUTE lO, BOMBAY TO JAIPUR AND DELHI 


Indid 


194 

Armoury. To the E. of the j 
Diwan-i-’ Am is the Parade Ground, j 
girt with open colonnades, behind 
which are the Law Courts. 

Near the Tripolia Gate rises the 
Iswari Minar Swarga Sul, the 
" Minaret piercing heaven,” built 
by Raja Iswari Singh to overlook 
the city. 


The Public Garden, outside the 
city wall to the S., is one of the 
finest in India, 36 acres in extent, 
and was laid out by Dr de Fabeck 
at a cost of about Rs.400,000. 

Attached to“it are a fine menagerie 
and aviary. These gardens cost 
the Maharaja Rs. 16,000 a year to 
keep up. There is a fine statue of 
'Lord Mayo in them, and in the 
centre is the Albert Hall — a sump- 
tuous modem building, designed 
and built by the late Sir S. S. Jacob, 
K.C.I.E., of which the Prince of 
Wales laid the first stone in 1876. 
It contains a large Darbar Hall 
and a beautiful museum — an Ori- 
ental South Kensington— suitably 
housed. The collections of mod- 
em works of art and industry, and 
also of antiquities, from every 
part of India are very complete 
and highly interesting. There is 
a fine view from the top. 


The Mayo Hospital, beyond the 
gardens, is of rough white stone, 
with a clock tower. It can house 
150 patients. 


The * foundation - stone of the 
Lansdowue Hospital for Imperial 
Service Transport Corps was laid 
by H.E, the Viceroy and Governor- 
General on 14th November 1890, 
and was opened in the year 1891, 
Its total cost was Rs.29,085. It 
affords accommodation in two 
wards for thirty in-patients, and 
has a large out-patient room, a 
dispensary, an ofdce, and excellent 
quarters for the staff, besides a 
dead-house, etc. 


The Imperial Service Transport 
! Corps was raised in 1889 as the 
contribution of the Jaipur State 
towards the scheme of Imperial 
defence, with 1000 ponies, 500 
men, and 400 carts. It has since 
been reorganised. The present 
strength is 1200 ponies, 776 men 
and followers, 16 tongas and 570 
carts, divided into it troops. 
The Coips has a Commandant in 
the person of Rai Bahadur Major 
Dhanpat Rai Sardar Bahadur, 
C.I .E . , who has under him i 
Assistant-Commandant and 1 1 
troop officers. 

The Corps saw service in the 
Chitral Expedition, 1895-6, and in 
the Tirah Expedition, 1897-8. It 
also took part in the Delhi Dar- 
bar and Coronation Manoeuvres, 
1 902 - 3 ; in the Agra Darbar, 
1905, held in connection with the 
visit of H.M, the Amir of Kabul ; 
and again in the Delhi Coronation 
Darbar, 1911. The services ren- 
dered were in each case warmly 
appreciated and acknowledged by 
the Highest Authority. 

In the great famines of 1899- 
1900 and 1906, the Commandant 
of the Corps and his men had the 
entire charge of the relief opera- 
tions within the State limits, and 
relieved on the first occasion some 
25,000 sufferers, and on the latter 
some 9000 people ; a great many 
lives were saved by the prompt 
and efficient aid rendered by 
means of ambulance arrangements 
obtainable in the Corps. 

The ambulance arrangement 
of the Corps consists in an ambu- 
lance section maintained in accord- 
ance \rith the regulations of the 
St John Ambulance Association. 
The men are all trained and almost 
all have passed the prescribed 
test. This ambulance section is 
capable of carrying at once 700 
sick or wounded, and the other 
carts of the Corps are so made as 
to be fitted up as ambulances 
should an emergency arise of 
removing a far larger number of 
sick or wounded men. 



ROUTE ro. 


JAIPUR 


195 


The organisation of the Corps 
has been admitted on all hands 
to be admirable, and is evident 
of itself from its record. 

The annual upkeep charges of 
the Corps amount to upwards of 
3 lakhs. 

The Corps is primarily meant 
for the Imperial defence, and in 
peace time it is employed ail over 
the capital on odds and ends of 
other useful duties. The latest 
achievement of the Corps is the 
laying out and the construction of 
a road, since called the “Queen's 
Road,” from the waterworks, 
Kacha Band to Khati-pura, and 
again from the Khatipura Road 
to the Ajmer Road, a distance of 
over 5 m. The road may be 
called a model one as regards its 
plan and lay-out, and a drive along 
It will well repay the trouble. 

The ambulance tongas and carts 
of the Corps were employed during 
the Delhi Coronation Darbars and 
the Agra Darbar, and did the 
work they were called upon to do 
admirably well. The Corps has 
done excellent work in the Great 
War 

The lines lie at the back of the 
Palace to the N. of the city. 


The Transport Gardens, now 
commonly called the Naya Ghat, 
were laid out by Rai Bahadur , 
Major Dhanpat Rai Sardar Baha- I 
dur, C.I.E., the Commandant of 
the Corps in 1896, in the bed of 
the Amnisha Nulla, adjoining the ! 
transport lines, and are more than 
^ m. m length. The nulla waas 
reed-grown pestilential swamp be- 
fore its reclamation was taken in 
hand, and the Commandant con- 
verted the bed into beautiful gar- 
dens, partly with the aid of his 
own men and partly by employing 
^‘imine labour. F^ormerly where 
tfiere was a dense growth of reeds 
'ind a filthy stagnation of water — | 
fhe haunt of the wild animals and j 
robbers — -now there stand in its j 
stead extensive gardens, beauti- j 


fully planned and laid out, along 
the centre of which Rows a fine 
stream fed by leakage from the 
waterworks reservoir, winding its 
course through well-designed arti- 
ficial lakes made for irrigating the 
side-gardens. 

It is a pleasure-resort for peoples 
of all nationalities ; here Euro- 
peans and Indians hold their 
picnics and outings, for wRich 
ample accommodation has been 
provided in the gardens. In the 
month of Savan (August) each 
year a fair is held, and as many 
as 20,000 people assemble to enjoy 
the coolness of the rainy season. 
It is the most agreeable place in 
Jaipur. The gardens grow all 
sorts of fruits and fodder. 

J aipur IS a centre of the St J ohn 
Ambulance Association, with His 
Highness the Maharaja as its 
President. The Chairman is the 
Hon. Mumtaz-ud-Daula Bahadur 
Nawab Sir Faiyaz Ah Khan, 
K.C.IE., K.C.V.O., C.S.I., the 
Chief Minister ; and the Secre- 
tary is Rai Bahadur Major Dhan- 
pat Rai Sardar Bahadur, C.I.E. 
Many high officers of the State are 
members. 


The Churcli is near the hotels 
and on the w'ay to the raihvay 
station, a little to the W. of the 
road. There is also a R.C church 
at Ghat Darwaza. 


At the School of Art, a handsome 
modern building, are first-rate 
technical and industrial classes for 
teaching and reviving various 
branches of native artistic indus- 
try — such as metal and enamel- 
work, embroidery, weaving, etc. 


The Maharaja's College. — In 
Jaipur public instruction has 
made greater progress than in the 
other States of Rajputana. The 
College, founded in 1844 
maintained entirely by the Darbar, 



196 


ROUTE lO. BOMBAY TO JAIPUR AND DELHI 


India 


is situated ih the city, and is a 
free institution, no fees of any 
kind being charged to the pupils. 
It has a daily class attendance of 
about looo students, both in the 
college and school departments 
It is a first-grade college, being 
affiliated to the University of 
Allahabad, up to the IM. A. standard 
in Arts and B.Sc. standard in 
Science. 


The Maharaja’s Public Library.— 
It was founded by a former 
Maharaja in 1866 for the educated 
public. It contains English, 
Sanskrit, Hindi, Persian, Arabic, 
Urdu, and other books, totalling 
in all about 19,000 volumes It 
is open to the public from 6.30- 
7.50 A.M. to g. 30-10 30 A.M., and 
from 2.30-3.30 to 5.30-6,30 P.M. 
Books are issued to the readers on 
payment of a subscription from 
Rs.i to Rs.6, and a deposit of 
Rs.io, The College students and 
professors are allowed a free use 
of books at the recommendation 
of the Principal of the Maharaja’s 
College. A committee manages 
the Library and selects new books 
to be purchased. It is under the 
direct control of the State Council, 
with a librarian in charge. 


The Chhatris, or cenotaphs of the 
Maharajas, at Gethur are just out- 
side the N.E. city wall. They are 
in well-planted gardens, the trees 
of which are full of solemn-looking 
grey-headed monkeys. The first 
seen on entering is Jai Singh’s 
Chhatri — the finest of all. It is a 
dome of the purest white marble, 
supported on tw^enty beautifully 
carved pillars rising from a sub- 
stantial square platform, and pro- 
fusely ornamented with scenes 
from Hindu mythology. S.E. of 
Jai Singh’s Chhai}i is that of his 
son Madho Singh, a dome rising 
from the octagon on arches re- | 
versed. The only ornaments are 
carved peacocks . W . of this 


Chhatri is that of Pertab Singh, 
his son, completed by a former 
ruler Ram Singh. It is of white 
marble brought from Alwar. 

The water which supplies Jaipur 
is drawn from a stream on Idle W. 
of the city, running into the 
I Banas. The pumpmg-station and 
j high-level reservoirs are about 2 m 
i W. outside the Chandpol Gate. 

1 An expedition for the sake of the 
i view may be made by elephant or 
i on foot a short distance from the 
! E. or Surya Gate, to the Shrine of 
the Sim God 2it Galt a — an uninter- 
esting building 350 ft. above the 
; plain, and built on a jutting rocky 
I platform on the summit of a range 
I of hi IP about m to the E. of 
Jaipur, of which by far the finest 
I \aew is obtained from this point. 

I The way the sandy desert is 
I encroaching on the town should 
j be noticed It has caused one 
i large suburb to be deserted, and 
I other houses and gardens are 
I gcang to rum. 

! Behind the temple is a deep 
[ gorge filled \vith temples and sa- 
I cred tanks shadowed by rugged 
! crags ; a paved causeway leads 
I through the ravine which is well 
i worth visiting. 

There is also a pleasant drive to a 
similar gorge along the Agra Road, 
2 m. E., which is lined with plea- 
sure palaces, gardens, and temples, 
and a place of frequent resort. 


The excursion to Amhfer (5 m. 
J from the city gate and 7 m. Irom 
the hotels), founded in the nth 
century, and the capital of Jaipur 
till 1728, now ruined and deserted, 
> IS most interesting, and will occupy 
; a whole morning A refreshment- 
room has now been opened here. 

I It was the custom to use an ele- 
: phant for the last 2 m. of tlie ex- 
1 cursion, but a new, well-engineered 
road has been constructed, extend- 
ing all the way to Ambk. 

On the left of the road a line 
of fortified hills is passed ; these 
culminate in the great Fort, 400 ft. 



ROUTE lO. AMB^R 


197 


above the old palace, connected 
with it and built for its defence. 
The picturesque situation of 
Amber at the mouth of a rocky 
mountain gorge, in which nestles 
a pretty lake, has attracted the 
admiration of all travellers, in- 
cluding Jacquemont and Heber. 
It was founded by the Minas, and 
was flourishing in 967. In 1037 
it was taken by the Rajputs, who 
held it till iL was deserted, m 
lavour of Jaipur. 


The Old Palace at Amber, be- 
gun by Man Singh (i6oo),i ranks 
architecturally second only to , 
^Twalior, though instead of stand- \ 
ing on a rocky pedestal it lies j 
low on the slope of the hill, 
picturesquely rooted on its rocky 
base and reflected in the lake be- 
low. The intenor arrangements 
are excellent. The suites of rooms 
form vistas opening upon striking 
views. It is a grand pile, and 
though it lacks the fresh and 
vigorous stamp of Hindu origin- 
ality which characterises earher 
buildings, the ornamentation and 
technical details are free from 
feebleness. 

Entered by a fine staircase from 
a great courtyard is the Diwan-i- 
Am — a noble specimen of Rajput 
art. with a double row of columns 
supporting a massive entablature, 
above which are latticed galleries. 

Its magnificence attracted the 
envy of Jahangir, and Mirza Raja,- 
to save his great work from 
destruction, covered it with 
stucco. 

To the right of the Diwan-i- Am ] 
-'^teps is a small temple, where a i 
§oat offered each morning to Kali 
preserves the tradition of a daily 1 
uuman sacrifice in prehistoric 
tunes. 


Man Singh w.m the nephew of Kaja ' 
•lag wan Da_<;, the friend of ALbar. | 

“ Raja Jai Singh I., nephew of Man | 
^ingh, was known by this title. i 


On a higher terrace are the 
[ Raja’s own apartments, entered 
I by a splendid gateway covered 
; with mosaics and sculptures, 
erected by Jai Singh, over which 
i is the Sohag Mandiv—'a, small 
pavihon with beautiful latticed 
, wundows. Through this are fur- 
' ther marvels — a green and cool 
i garden with fountains, surrounded 
j by palaces, brilliant with mosaics 
j and marbles. That on the left is 
I the Jai Mayidir, or HaU of Vic- 
^ tory, adorned by panels of alabas- 
^ ter, some of which are inlaid, and 
, others are adorned with flowers in 
' alto-relievo, “ the roof ghttenng 
with the mirrored and spangled 
work for which Jaipur is re- 
nowned.” Near the Jai Mandir a 
narrow passage leads down to the 
bathing-rooms, all of pale creamy 
marble. Above is the Jas Man- 
dir, " which htcrally glows with 
bright and tender colours and 
exquisite inlaid work, and looks 
through arches of carved alabaster 
and clusters of slender columns 
upon the sleeping lake and the 
silent mountains.” 

At the N.E. angle is a balcony, 
i whence there is a fine view over 
I the town of Amber and the plain 
1 beyond to the hill which overlooks 
i Ramgarh Some Chhatris outside 
i the wall are those of Chieftains 
j who died before Jai Singh II. In 
I the palace to the right is a cham- 
[ ber, on the right wall of which are 
t views of Ujjain, and on the left 
I views of Benares and Muttra 
' That opposite the Jai Mandir is 
called the Snkh Niwas, ” Hall of 
Pleasure.” In the centre of the 
narrow, dark room is an opening 
for a stream to flow down into the 
groove or channel which runs 
through the hall. The doors are 
of sandal-wood inlaid with ivory. 

A steep path leads down to the 
Khizri Gate, beyond which, as it 
leads to one of the forts, Kantal- 
garh, no one is allowed to pass 
without an order. At the bottom 
of this path there is a temple to 
Thakurji, or Vishnu. It is white 



ROUTE lO. BOMBAY TO ALWAR AND DELHI 


I ndia 


198 


and beautifully carved, and just 
outside the door is a lovely square | 
pavilion exquisitely carved with 
figures representing Krishna sport- 
ing with the Gopi milkmaids. 

Amber formerly contained 
many fine temples, but most are 
now in ruins. 


Sanganer, about 7 m. to the S. of 
Jaipur, also deserves a visit, and 
may be reached by a nice drive 
past the Residency and the i\Ioti 
Dongari, or by the railway from 
Jaipur to Siwai IMadhupur (p. 1 70) . 

The road into the toivn is 
through two ruined Tripoli as, or 
triple gateways of three storeys, 
about 66 ft. high. The second 
storey has an open stone veranda, 
supported by four pillars on either 
side of the archway. On the 
right ascending the street is a 
small temple sacred to Kalyanji, 
or Krishna, the door of which is 
handsomely carved. Opposite is 
a temple to Sitaram, with a pillar, 
6 ft. high, of white IMakrana 
marble, called a Kirtti Khambh. 
On the four sides are Brahma, with 
four faces; Vishnu, cross-legged, 
holding the lotus ; Siva, holding 
a cobra in his right hand and a 
trident in his left, with Parvati 
beside him and Ganesh. 


Higher up, on the left, aie the 
ruins of the Old Palace, which must 
once have been a vast building. 
N. by E. from this is the Sanganer 
Jain Temple, with three courts, 
and finelv - carved marble work. 
Visitors are not allowed to enter 
the third. 


755 m. from Bombay is Bandikui 
junction station (R ). Here are 
railway workshops, church in- 
stitute, and a considerable station 
for railway employes. The fine 
for Bharcetpur junction, Muttra 
junction, and Agra branches off 
E. (see Route 12). 


ALWAR {792 m from Bombay), 
is the capital of the Indian State of 
that name, founded in 1771 by Ma- 
harao Raja Pratap Singhji. It 
has an area of 3185 sq. m , and a 
revenue of about 8 lakhs. The 
capital (population 44,085) is beau- 
tifully situated on rising ground, 
dominated by the Fort, which 
crowns a conical rock and is backed 
by a range of mountains. The 
present ruling Prince. Lieut. -Col. 
His Highness Raj Rajendra Sri 
Siwai Maharaj Sir Jey Singhji \ ee- 
rendra Shiromani l 3 eo, K C.S.I., 
K.C.I.E., is by race a Naruka 
Rajput of the Kachhawa clan. 
He is descended from the Surya- 
bansh (the Solar dynasty), and 
belongs to the ancient royal family 
of Amber (now in Jaipur). 


* Palaces . — The Moti Hoongn 
Palace, built on a hill, i m. to the 
S. of the railway station, is the 
Royal residence of the present 
ruling Prince. It is surrounded 
on all sides by fine gardens and 
beautiful lawns. There are other 
palaces in the capital, one of them 
being the Vinai Vilas Palace, 
named after the late Alaharao Raja 
Vmai Singhji and now used for His 
Highness’s Government Offices. 
The city palace is at the very end of 
the city and consists of a group of 
buildings partly detached, and 
built in a variety of styles, separ- 
ated from the base of the mountain 
by a very picturesque tank. The 
handsome Shish - Mahal (Glass- 
room) overlooks the tank. This 
palace contains a valuable Library, 
kept in excellent order, and rich in 
Oriental manuscripts 

Eminent Sanskrit and Persian 
scholars from Western countries 
keenly seek this library for taking 
copies of anv-iciit manuscripts. 
One of the principal ornaments in 
the collection of this library is a 
matchless Gulistan, which cost 
about £10,000 to produce ; it is 
beautifully illustrated with minia- 
ture paintings. It was finished in 



ROUTE lO. ALWAR 


199 


1848 by the order of Siwai Maha- 
rao Raja Vinai Singh ji. Another 
beautiful book is the Dah Pand, 
written in 1864. 

The Armoury contains a splen- 
did collection of sabres and other 
weapons finely wrought and fin- 
ished and studded with ie\vels ; 
also of handsome swords wdth hilts 
of gold. Dozens of these sw'ords 
are from Persia, while many of 
them were made at Alw^ar. in imi- | 
tation of the Ispahan steel. The 
arms of Maharao Raja Vinai 
Smghji (1815-57) could only be 
worn by a man of great stature. 
Permission to visit these palaces 
must be obtained from His High- 
iiess's Minister in charge. 

The ''Sugar" (tank), with the 
buildings that surround it and the 
fort in the background, forms one 
of the most pictures(4ue spots in 
India To the E. arc the palace 
buildings, on the AV. are a number 
of temples and shrines shrouded by 
trees ; and raised upon the centre 
of a platform on the S. is the ceno- 
taph of the late ilaharao Raja 
Rakhtawar Singhji (1781-1815). 
The plinth is made of red sand- 
stone and the cenotaph itself of 
beautiful marble. Visitors who 
care to enter this building have 
to take ofi their shoes. Alyriads of 
pigeons fly about these sacred pre- 
cincts, and numbers of stately 
peacocks strut unmolested about 
the stone pavements. 

The State Stables are well worth 
a visit. 

In the city the house may be 
visited in which the Elephant 
carriage is kept. It \vas built by 
-Maharao Raja Vinai Singhji, and is 
Used by the present ruling Prince 
on the Dussera Festival. It is a 
car two storeys high, and can carry 
fifty persons. It is usually drawn 
by four elephants. I 

There is little to see at the Fort, 
but the view from this great height 


of all the city below and the sur- 
rounding country interspersed with 
lakes, is quite magnificent. The 
ascent is steep, and is paved with 
slippery and rugged stones. At a 
point about 150 ft up. the steepest 
part of the ascent begins. It is 
called the Ha tin IMora, ‘ ‘ Elephant's 
turn," because hitherto these 
animals could not go beyond this 
j point ; now a motor road is being 
made right up to the top of the hill. 
Behind the fort, atadistanceof im., 
is the Chhatri of the late Maharao 
Raja Pertab Singhji, the Founder 
of the throne of Alw^ar, and, along- 
side it, is a small monument of his 
Queen Consort who became sati. 

The tomb of Fateh Jang, a 
Minister of Shah Jahan, near the 
station, on the Bharatpur road, is 
a conspicuous object with an im- 
mense dome, and bears the date, in 
Nagri, 1547 ; the outside is poor in 
design compared with the interior. 
The building possesses a consider- 
able amount of fine plaster- work 
in relief, with flat surface patterns 
and rectangular mouldings 

I m. N. of the city is the Jail, 
and 2 m. to the S. is the Artillery 
Ground and Top Khana, " Artillery 
Arsenal." 

Alwar and its outskirts are sup- 
plied with water from Sihserh lake, 
6 m. S.W. of the city. A new 
masonry dam, about I m. long, and 
4 m. from the Moti Doongri hill, 
has been constructed, at a cost 
of Rs. 8 lakhs to impound water 
from the Ruparel river. The 
water stored by this masonry dam, 
amounting to some 1100 millions 
of c. ft., forms a splendid reservoir, 
covering an area over 4 sq. m It 
is known by the name of Jey 
Samand Lake," named after the 
present reigning Prince, and is or- 
namented with beautiful Chhatris 
(domes) . 

There is plenty of small game, 
including panthers, in the neigh- 
bourhood of Alwar, while the State 
Forests abound in tigers : but they 
are reserved as Royal game. 
Shooting licences can be obtained 



200 


ROUTE II. FROM AHMAD ABAD THROUGH KATHIAWAR India 


on application to the Army 
Minister. 

The State maintains Imperial 
Service troops, consisting of 6oi 
cavalry, and 926 infantry, which 
is the mobilised unit strength in 
peace times. The infantry regi- 
ment took part in the China Ex- 
pedition in 1900-1, and carries the 
reputation of being one of the best 
drilled regiments in India. Since 
the outbreak of the present Euro- 1 
pean War both the regiments have j 
gone on active service in the field , j 
taking part in France, Egypt, the j 
N.W. Frontier of India, etc. [ 

TheFeelkhana {Elephant Dept.) ; 
is another interesting institution ^ 
for visitors to see. There are alto- 
gether thirty elephants, skilfully | 
trained for purposes of big-game ! 
shooting. 

The Puyjan Vihar (Garden). — 
This is a beautiful pubhc park on 
the outskirts of the town. In the 
centre of this park is a fine summer- 
house, with picturesque fountains 
and beautiful ferns . 

There is also a small menagerie 
in this park, consisting of Hons, 
tigers, panthers, and bears. 

The Dak Bungalow is about 100 
yds. from the railway statipn. 
Carriages from the State Stables 
are available on hire by appHcation 
to the Munsarim Buggikhana.” 


20 m. E. of Alwar, and adjoining 
the Mewati hills, is the battlefield 
of Laswari, where Lord Lake 
annihilated the Deccan battalions 
of Daulat Rao Scindia’s European 
trained army on ist November 
1803, the British losses being 172 
killed and 652 wounded, and the 
Mahratta losses 5000 to 7000. 
Later events have unduly obscured 
the achievements of this great 
British leader, who within a space 
of two months, and vith a force 
never exceeding 8000 men, crushed 
31 battalions of Scindia's troops 
in four pitched battles, captured 


426 guns, took two fortresses 
(Aligarh and Agra), and entered 
the capital of India (Delhi) as a 
conqueror. 


ROUTE IL 

From AHMAD ABAD through 
KATHIAWAR by Viramgam, 
Kharaghoda, Wadhwan, Bhaunagar’ 
Junagadh, Gimar, Somnath, Por- 
handar, Rajkot, and back to Ahma- 
dabad, with expedition by road to 
Palitana 

Leaving Ahmadabad (Route 10), 
310 m. from Bombay, the Sabar- 
mati is crossed on a fine bndge, 
with a footway for passengers 
alongside, and carrying the rails 
for both broad and narrow gauges. 
From 4 m., Sabarmati (junction 
station), on the N. bank of the 
river of that name, the narrow 
gauge continues N. to Delhi and 
Agra, whilst the broad gauge turns 
W., and passing through a well- 
cultivated country, reaches 40 m 

Viramgam junction station, ^a 

walled town (population 20,769). 
The Mansar Tank dates from 
the end of the nth century. It 
is shaped like a shell, and sur- 
rounded by flights of stone steps ; 
round the tops of the steps runs a 
row of small temples, in the sides 



ROUTE .II. KHARAGHODA— WADHWAN 


201 


of which there are holes, through 
which it is believed a rope used 
to pass, enabhng a worshipper to 
nng the bells in ail the temples 
at once. The inlet is much or- 
namented. The neighbourhood I 
abounds in black buck, grouse, i 
and ail manner of water-fowl. | 
From this place a branch line j 
runs N.W., passing at i8 m. Patri i 
(D.B.), a small walled town wuth a 
citadel ; and, at 23 m. reaches 
Kharaghoda , where there are very 
extensive salt-pans on the edge of 
the Little Kan (Runn) of Cutch.^ 
In th^ dry season the Ran pre- 
sents the appearance of a hard, 
smooth bed of dried mud, and 
may be ndden over at any place. 
There is absolutely no vegetation 
except on some small islands 
which nse above the level o) the 
salt inundation ; the only living 
creatures that inhabit it are some 
herds of wild asses, which feed on 
the lands near its shores at night, 
and retreat far into the desert 
in the daytime. With the com- 
pencement of the S.W. monsoon 
in May the salt water of the Gulf 
of Cutch invades the Ran, and 
later in the season the rivers from 
Pajputana pour fresh w’ater into 
h. The sea is now encroaching i 
rapidly on the Ran at its junc- . 
hon with the Gulf of Cutch, and ^ 
there is reason to suppose that j 
serious changes of level are taking ! 
place The centre of the Ran is | 
slightly higher than the borders, j 
3 -nd dries first. The railway has 
^any sidings extending into the | 
Ran, to facilitate the collection ’ 
of the salt, which is stacked at the I 
station in very large quantities I 
lender the custody of the Salt Cus- j 
loms Department. Originally it i 
'vas considered necessary to erect I 
expensive roofs over the salt j 
stacks, but experience has shown ' 
Riat this can be dispensed with. : 

I 

^ hUuj, the principal town of Cutch, 
powned for the work of its silversmitlts, 

On the N. side of the Ran, and is at 
present difficult of access. Ran means a 
^^oert. The Great Ran lies N.W. of Bhuj. 


The salt is evaporated by the heat 
of the sun from brine brought up 
in buckets from depths of 15 ft 
to 30 ft. Wonderful mirages are 
seen in the Ran, and in the winter 
season the flights of flamingoes and 
other birds are extraordinarily 
large. There are sand grouse to 
be had round about. 

80 m. from Ahmadabad is 
WadiLwan junction station (D.B.). 
To the W. runs the Moyvx State 
Railway, to the N. the Dhrangadhra 
State Railway, and to the S. the 
Bhatifiagar State Railway — each on 
the metre-gauge system, and the 
property of their respective States. 
To the S. the line is continued b\ 
means of the Gondal-Porhaiida} 
Railway, which opens up a large 
tract of country in S. Kathiawar 
To the W. the Morvi Railway runs 
to Moyvi Rajkot r thence the Jam- 
nagar State Railway runs to Jam- 
nagar and the Jetalsar Rajkot Rail- 
way to Jetalsar, where it crosses the 
Gondal-Porhandar line. The Jun- 
agadh Railway runs from Jetalsar to 
Veraval via Junagadh, and from 
Junagadh to Visavadav. All the 
railways in Kathiawar are man- 
aged by States or combinations of 
States. 

The Civil Station of Wadhwan, 
on “which the railway station is 
built, is land rented by Govern- 
ment in perpetuity from the 
Wadhw^an State, for the loca- 
tion of the establishments neces- 
sary for the administration of the 
N.E. portion of Kathiawar. A 
small towm has sprung up close to 
the railway station. The Civil 
Station is connected with Wadh- 
wan city by a horse tramway 
and by the Bhaunagar Railway. 

At the Talukdan School the sons 
of Gtrassias, or land-owners, are 
educated when their parents are 
unable to afford the heavy cost of 
sending them to the Rajkumar, or 
Princes’, College, at Rajkot. In 
many cases elder brothers are 
placed at the Rajkumar College 
and the younger at the Talukdari 



202 


ROUTE II. FROM AHM.\DABAD THROUGH KATHIAWAR India 


School. Dhrangadhra, on tlic 
Dhrangadhva State Railway run- | 
ning from VVadhwan to Hahvad, j 
is the capital of the Dhrangadhra i 
State. The ruler, H.H. Sri Sir I 
Ghanshyamsinhji, K.C.S.I., is the , 
head of the clan of Jhala Rajputs, j 
Since his accession in igii the ; 
State has made great progress in ; 
all directions. ! 

The Province of Kathiawar 
consists of 1 88 separate States, 
ranging in extent from consider- i 
able tracts of country, with Chiefs ! 
enjoying great executive freedom, i 
to mere village lands, States only 
in name. Most of the capitals of ; 
these States will repay a visit. 

The Province is divided into 
four Prants, or divisions. The task ' 
of administering it is entrusted ' 
to the Agent to the Governor, w^ho 
resides at Rajkot, and has assis- 
tants, called Political Agents, 
distributed through the country. 

Everywhere in Kathiawar there 
are long lines of pahas, or memorial 
stones, peculiar to this Province, i 
on which men are usually repre- j 
sen ted as riding on a very large 
horse, whilst women have a wheel j 
below them to indicate that they j 
used a carriage. A woman's arm j 
and hand indicate here, as else- j 
where in India, a monument to a J 
safi lady. 

Proceeding S. by the Bhaunagar 
State Railway, the river is crossed 
close to the station. I 

I 

At 83 m. Wadliwan City station | 
is reached- The town vrall is of 1 
stone and in good order. Towards f 
the centre, on the N. wall, is the ' 
ancient temple of EaniK Devi. 
She. was a beautiful girl, born in 
the Junagadh territory when Sidh 
Raja was reigning at Patan, and 
was betrothed to him. But Ra : 
Khengar, who then ruled Juna- 
gadh, carried her off and married 
her, which caused a deadly feud 
between him and Sidh Raja, 
whose troops marched to Juna- : 
gadh. Khengar was betrayed by 
two of his kinsmen, and was slain 1 


by Sidh Raja and his fortress 
taken. The conqueror wanted to 
marry Ranik Devi, but she per- 
formed sati, and Sidh Raja raised 
this temple to her memory. It 
bears marks of extreme old age, 
the stone being much w’orn; all 
but the tower is gone. Inside is 
a stone with the efhgy in relief of 
Ranik Devi, and a smaller one with 
a representation of Ambaji K. ot 
this temple, and close to the city 
wall, is a salt stone dated 1519. 
Near the Lakhupol Gate is a 
well with steps, ascribed ^to one 
Madhava, who hved in 1294 a.u. 

The Palace is the centre of the 
town, has four storeys, and is 72 ft- 
high. It stands in a court facing 
the entrance, on the right of which 
is a building called the Mandwa, 
where assembhes take place at 
marriages. There is a new Palace 
called the Balchandra Vilas, built 
by the late Thakore Sahib Bal- 
sinhji. 

96 m. Limhdi station — chief 
town of the cotton - producing 
Limbdi State (population 11,039) : 
a welhcared - for place, with a 
very handsome Palace, which was 
seriously damaged by a great fire 
in 1906. 

126 m. B^tad station. Frontier 
of the Bhaunagar State. 

153 m. from Ahmadabad is 
Bhola junction station (R.). 
Here the hne turns W. ‘ to 
Dhoraji and Porbandar by the 
Gondal - Porbandar State Railway, 
and E to Bhaunagar by the Bhau- 
nagar State Railway passing at 

165 m., a little N. of Songad, ^ 
the residence of the Political 
Agent for the Eastern portion 
of the Province, 

Excursion to Palitaua and the 
Satrunjaya Hills. 

P^tana, ^ railway terminus 
station on the ' Sihor-Palitana 
section, 17 m. from Sihor, is much 



ROUTE 1 1 . 


PAL IT AN A 


enriched by the pilgrims who reside 
in It during their visit to the Holy 
Mountain and its famous Jam 
temples. Since the death of the 
last Thakore Saliib, in 1905, the 
State is under British administra- 
tion owing to the minority of the 
present Thakore Sahib. There is 

State Paddock, where breeding 
irompure Kathi stock is carried on. 

The distance from Palitana to 
the foot of Satrunjaya, or the Holy 
ryiountain, 1977 ^-bove sea- level, 
is I J m. The road is level, with a 
good water supply, and shaded. 
The ascent begins with a wide 
flight of steps, guarded on either 
side by a statue of an ele- 
phant. The hillside is in many 
places excessively steep, and the 
mode of conveyance is a dkoli — a 
seat or tray 18 in. square, slung 
from two poles and carried by four 
men. Few of the higher - class 
pilgrims are able to make the 
ascent on foot, so there is an 
arnple supply of dholis and bearers. 

The Satrunjaya Hill is truly a 
city of temples, for, except a few 
tanks, there is nothing else within 
the gates ; there is a cleanliness 
about every square, passage, porch 
and hall, that is itself no mean 
source of pleasure. The silence, 
too, is striking. Now and then in 
the mornings a bell sounds for a 
few .seconds, or a drum is beaten 
for as short a time, and on holidays 
chants from the larger temples 
meet the ear ; but generally during 
the afternoon the only sounds are 
of vast flocks of pigeons that fly 
about spasmodically from one 
temple to another. Paroquets 
^nd squirrels, doves and ringdoves 
abound, and peacocks are occa- 
‘^lonally met with on the outer 
walls. The top of the hill consists 
tw'O ridges, each about 350 
yds. long, with a valley between. 
Each of these ridges, and the 
wo large enclosures that fl.ll 
the valley, are surrounded by 
passive battlemented walls fitted 
tor defence. The buildings on 
00th ridges, again, are divided into 


203 

separate enclosures called inks, 
generally containing one principal 
temple with varying numbers of 
smaller ones. Each of these en- 
closures is protected by strong 
gates and wails, and all gates are 
carefully closed at sundown. 

No attempt is made to describe 
the shrines in detail ; their general 
character is so often repeated that 
it would only be possible to do so 
with the aid of profuse illustra- 
tions. The area enclosed on the 
top is small enough for any one 
of ordinary activity to see all 
over it in a two hours’ visit. 
Dr Burgess’s book on the place is 
excellent. 

There is one gate leading into 
the enclosure, but there are nine- 
teen gates within, leading to the 
nineteen chief temples Not far 
from the Ram-pol (“ pol ” means 
gate) is a resting-place used by 
persons of distinction, with a 
tolerable room surrounded by 
open arches. There is no accom- 
modation for ordinary European 
visitors. 

Mr James Fergusson says ^ 

The grouping together of their 
temples into what may be called 
I ‘ Cities of Temples ’ is a peculiarity 
I which the Jains practised to a 
I greater extent than the followers 
I of any other religion in India. 
The Buddhists grouped their 
stupas and viharas near and 
around sacred spots, as at Sanchi, 
yianikyala, or in Peshawar, and 
elsewhere ; but they were scat- 
! tered, and each was supposed to 
i have a special meaning, or to 
j mark some sacred spot The 
I Hindus also grouped their temples. 

! as at Bhubaneswar or Benares, in 
1 great numbers together ; but in 
j all cases, so tar as we know, 

I because these w^ere the centres oi a 
; population who believed in the 
gods to whom the temples were 
dedicated, and wanted them for 
I the purposes of their worship. 

' Neitlier of these religions, how- 


i Ind. and East. Arch,. 2, 24 



204 ROUTE II. FROM AHMAD ABAD THROUGH KATHIAWAR India 


ever, possesses such a group of 
temples, for instance, as that at 
Satranjaya, or Pali tana, as it is 
usually called from the neighbour- 
ing town, in Gujarat. It covers 
the two summits of the Satrunjaya 
Hill, each about 360 yards long, 
with the depression between them. 
They are grouped in separate 
enclosures called tuks, surrounded 
by high battlemented walls, each 
having at least one principal 
temple, with varying number of 
smaller ones around it. The 
number of temples and small 
shrines number over 500, It is a 
city of the gods, and meant for 
them only, and not intended for 
the use of mortals. 

“ All the pecuharities of Jam 
architecture are found in a more 
marked degree at Palitana than at 
almost any other known place, 
and, fortunately for the student of 
the style, extending over a con- 
siderable period of time. Some of 
the temples may be as old as the 
lith century, but the Muslim 
invaders of the 14th and 15th 
centuries made sad havoc of all 
the older shrines, and we have 
only fragments of a few of them. 
In the latter half of the i6th cen- 
tury, however, the Jains obtained 
tolerance and security, and forth- 
with began to rebuild their old 
fanes. From 1500 they are spread 
pretty evenly over all the inter- 
vening time down to the present 
century. 

Dr James Burgess, in his report, 
gives the following general de- 
scription : — 

** At the foot of the ascent there 
are some steps with many little 
canopies or cells, i^ ft. or 3 ft. 
square, open only in front, and 
each having in its floor a marble 
slab carved with the representa- 
tion of the soles of two feet 
(char an), very flat ones, and gener- 
ally with the toes all of one length. 
A little behind, where the ball of 
the great toe ought to be, there is 
a diamond -shaped mark divided 
into four smaller figures by two 


cross lines, from the end of one of 
which a curved line is drawn to 
the front of the foot. 

“ The path is paved with rough 
stones all the way up, only inter- 
rupted here and there by regular 
, flights of steps. At frequent in- 
I tervals also there are rest-houses. 
High up we come to a small temple 
of the Hindu monkey-god, Hanu- 
man, the image bedaubed with 
vermihon in ultra-barbaric style. 
At this point the path bifurcates, 
to the right leading to the Northern 
peak, and to the left to the valley 
between, and through it to the 
Southern summit. A little higher 
up, on the former route, is the 
shrine of Aengar, a Musalman pir, 
so that Hindu and Muslim ahke 
contend for the representation of 
their creeds on this sacred hill of 
the Jains. 

“ On reaching the summit of the 
mountain, the view that presents 
itself from the top of the walls is 
magnificent in extent ; a splendid 
setting for the unique picture. 
To the E. the prospect extends 
to the Gulf of Cambay near Gogo 
and Bhaunagar ; to the N. it is 
bounded by the granite range of 
Sihor and the Chamardi peak ; to 
the N. W. and \V. the plain extends 
i as far as the eye can reach. From 
W. to E., hke a silver ribbon across 
the foreground to the S., winds the 
Satrunjaya River, which the eye 
follows until it is lost between the 
Talaja and Khokara Hills in the 

; s.w.^^ 

I Excursion to Valahkipur. 

The antiquarian may care from 
Songad to visit the site of the 
ancient city of Valabliipur, which 
is nearly identical with the modern 
town of Wala, 12 m. distant by 
road. The authorities at Songad 
will arrange for the j ourney . Vala- 
bhipur, the capital of all this part 
of India, was perhaps as old as 
Rome. The present town (under 
5000 inhabitants) is the capital of a 
small Kathiawar State. It has been 



ROUTE II. SIHOR — BHAUNAGAR — JUNAGADH 


205 


very much neglected. There are 
t>carcely any architectural remains 
at Wala, but old foundations are 
discovered, and sometimes coins, 
copper plates, mud seals, beads, 
and household images have been 
found in some abundance. The 
ruins can be traced over a large 
area of jungle. 


Resuming the railway route 
from Songad to Bhaunagar, the 
traveller passes, go m. from Wadh- 
wan, Sihor station (D.B.). This 
was at one time the capital. The 
town, m. S. of the railway, has 
interesting Hindu temples. There 
IS a branch line running between 
Mhor and Palitana (17 m.). The 
name is a corruption of “ Singh- 
pnr/’ “ the lion’s citv ” ; a still 
more ancient name is “ Saraswat- 
pur.” It is famous for copper and 
brass work, snuft and plaster 
(chunam). Near the S. wall is 
situated Brahma Kund, the water 
nf which possesses special virtue 
tor the bather. Farther up the 
kiver Gautami lie the Gautam 
Kund and Gautameswar JNIahadev, 


104 m. from Wadliwan the ter- 
minus is at Bhaunagar. ^ The city, 
ol 60,694 inhabitants, founded 
^723, stands on a tidal creek that 
runs into the Gulf of Cambay. It 
has a good safe harbour for ship- 
ping of light draught, and carries 
^n an extensive trade, as one of the 
principal markets and harbours 
uf export for cotton in Katlna- 
war. The Bhaunagar State has 
hom its first connection with 
rhe British Government been 
Administered by men of intelli- 
gence, and the town will be found i 
A most pleasing sample of the ; 
results of native Indian govern- , 
ment going hand in hand with 
mropean progress. The staple ! 
export IS cotton. There are no 
uteresting rums, but abundance I 
1 Very handsome modern build- I 
iigs on Indian models, water- ' 


; w^orks, reservoirs, and gardens; 

I and at the port wall be seen an 
intelligent adoption of modern 
mechanical improvements. 

, To visit Junagadh, Somnath, 
Porbandar, or any places in the 
W., it is' necessary to return to 
Dhola junction and change there 
' for Jetalsar via Dhasa. From 
; Dhasa there is a branch line to 
Kundla (23 m.), constructed by 
the Bhaunagar State, w^hich com- 
municates wath the Baroda terri- 
tory and several Mahals of the 
Bhaunagar State, including its 
Port of Mahuva. 

Jetalsar junction station (R.), 
153 m. from Wadhwan, is the 
residence of the Political Agent for 
the S. or Sorath Division of the 
Province of Kathiawar. Here the 
line branches (i) S. to Veravalior 
Somnath , {2) \V. to Porhandaf 

fp 215) ; and (3) N. to Rajkot, 
Waiikaner, and Wadhwan (p. 202), 


(i) Jetalsar to Junagadh and 
Veraval 

17 m. from Jetalsar is Junagadh 
station, ^ {D.B. \V. of the town, 
opposite a modern gateway, called 
the Reay Gate), the capital of the 
State, and the residence of the 
Nawab. The name means Old 
Fort. Population 35,413. The 
State is under a British adminis- 
trator, the Nawab being a minor. 

From Junagadh a branch line is 
opened up to Visawadar. There 
is also a line between Shahpur 
I a station between Junagadh and 
Veraval) and Saradia for Kutiana 
via Bantw^a (20 m.). The Bantwa 
Taluka is owmed by Babi Musal- 
mans of the same clan as the 
Naw^ab of Junagadh. 

Situated as it is under the Girnar 
and Datar Hills, Junagadh is one 
of the most picturesque towns in 
India, while in antiquity and liis- 
torical interest it yields to few\ 
The scenery from the hills around 


2o6 


ROUTE II. FROM AHMAD ABAD THROUGH KATHIAWAR India 


is most pleasing, and the place 
has attractions wanting in most 
ancient Indian towns, which, as a 
rule, are situated in uninteresting 
plains. There is much game in 
Kathiawar, and specially in the Gir, 
the large wild tract to the S.E. of 
Junagadh ; but the Gir is very un- 
healthy in the early autumn, and 
again at the beginning of the rains. 
The few lions left are strictly 
protected. 

The fortifications of the present 
town were all built by the Muham- 
madans after the capture of the 
place by Sultan Mahmud Bigara, 
of Gujarat, about 1472. The 
Nawab’s Palace is a spacious pile 
of buildings with the Haveli and 
Darbar Kacheri Hall opposite. 
The latter is worth a visit. In 
front of the Darbar is a fine circle 
of shops with the Aiyena Mahal on 
the E. Entering the Reay Gate 
from the station we come to the 
Orphanage, Jail, and Law Courts, 
and opposite the latter is the mod- 
em “ Mukbara,” or mausoleum, of 
the Nawabs adjoining the public 
mosque. Further on lie the new 
Civil Hospital and Zenana Hos- 
pital recently built. At the four 
cross roads adjoining lies the old 
Mukbara, containing the tombs of 
the Nawabs, a highly finished 
building. * Mr Fergusson says : ^ 
“ There is a cemetery at Junagadh 
where there exists a group of tombs 
all erected within last century, 
some within the last forty or fifty 
years, which exhibit, more nearly 
than any others I am acquainted 
with, the forms towards which the 
style was tending. This style is 
not without a certain amount of 
elegance in detail. The tracery of 
the windows is frequently fascin- 
ating from its beauty, and all the 
carvmg is executed with precision 
and appropriateness ; but it is all 
wooden." Entering the enclosure 
by the N. gate, the tomb of Baha- 
dur Khan IJ. is in front on the left, 
next to it the tomb of Hamad 

1 Ind. and East. Arch., 2, 331. 


Khan II., and on its left that of 
Laidibu Bibi. Beside these is 
the tomb of Nawab Mahabat- 
Khan, in Saracenic style, and 
finely carved. The tombs of 
Bibi Najobibi and her notorious 
servant, Chaitibu, are to be found 
at Bara Saiyad in another quarter 
of the town, and wull repay a visit. 

Outside the town lies the new 
suburb containing the Official Re- 
sidence, a Gymkhana, the Arts Col- 
lege, the Huzur Offices, the Im- 
perial Service Lancers Lines, the 
well-known Junagadh quarries and 
a new High School still under con- 
struction. The College was de- 
signed and built by a local archi- 
tect and contains a very fine hall. 
It was opened by Lord Curzon 
in November 1900. Both in and 
outside the walls many improve- 
ments have been carried out during 
the recent years of Administration. 
State Departments and Institu- 
tions are efficiently houbed and 
managed, and roads have been 
Avidened and improved. The 
State maintains separate guest- 
houses for Europeans and Indians 
of status - 

The State Gardens, Moti Bag, 
Sardar Bag, Lai Bag, the new 
Diagonal Garden and the Sakar 
Bag are a great feature of the 
place. They have recently been 
restored and laid out and are very 
picturesquely situated. The Zoo- 
logical Collection, including Gir 
lions successfully bred in captivity, 
has now been housed in Sakar Bag, 
I m, to the N. of the State Pad- 
dock, where the famous Kathi breed 
can be inspected with advantage. 
There are no tigers in the Kathia- 
war peninsula, but up to the 
middle of the present century 
hons inhabited all the large 
jungles, and were shot in the 
Choteyla Hills E. of Rajkot. 
Now the animal is confined to the 
Gir. The lion is in no Avay inferior 
to the Afncan species, although 
the rnane is not so large and is 
sometimes absent. The Gir lion is 
not a man-eater usually, but there 



route II. 


JUNAGADH 


are one or two weli-au then treated 
instances of his killing men. 

The soft sandstone which every- 
where underlies Junagadh is 
formed apparently in very shallow 
water, showing on all sides compli- 
cated lines of stratification. The 
facility with which it is worked 
may be one reason why it has 
been largely excavated into cave- 
dwellings in Buddhist times. 


The Caves. — In the N. part of the 
town enclosure, near the old tele- 
graph office, is the group called 
the Khapra Khodia. These caves 
appear to have been a monastery, 
and bear the cognisance of the 
then ruling race — a winged griffin 
or lion. They appear to have 
been two or three storeys high. 
They are excavated in good 
building stone, and the modern 
quarrymen have been allowed 
to encroach and injure them ; 
hut they have recently been 
cleaned out and built up with 
'Supporting masonry. The most 
interesting caves of all are in 
the Uparkot (see below) about 
5 ^ yds. N. of the great mosque. 
They are now protected by an iron 
gate. They consist of two storeys, 
the lower chambers being ii ft. 
high. The upper storey consists 
oi a tank surrounded by a corridor, 
u^nd of a room 36 ft. by 28 ft,, 
supported by six columns, beyond 
which is a small kitchen. From 
here a winding staircase leads to 
the lower storey, measuring 39 ft. 
by 31 ft., with broad recesses all 
round it, and over them a frieze 
of chaitya windows. Of the 
columns, Dr Burgess says : 

Few bases could be found any- 
to excel in beauty of design 
richness of carving those of 
six principal pillars.'" Inside 
J^^g^oswari Gate, through 
^hich the Gimar Mount is reached, 
re the caves known by the name 
Of Bawa Piara — a comparatively 
Jhodem Hindu ascetic who is said 
0 have resided in them. These 


207 

caves date from about the time of 
Asoka ^272-231 B.C.), are among 
the very oldest in all India, and 
are nearly all small and plain. 
They are situated in the scarp of a 
circular detached mass of rock,, 
and face S. and E., a third fine to 
the N,, also facing S., being exca- 
vated on a higher level than the S. 
line. Facing JE., a number of caves 
were dug round a central space. 


The Uparkot, on the E. side 
of the city, used as a jail until 
1858, is now practically deserted, 
though modern w’aterworks are 
now located on its S. aspect. It 
was the citadel of the old Hindu 
Princes, and is probably the spot 
from whence Junagadh derives 
its name. Without presenting 
any very special features, the 
Uparkot is a most interesting old 
fort. The parapets on the E-, where 
the place is commanded by higher 
ground, have been raised at least 
three times to give cover against 
the increasingly long range of 
projectiles. The views from the 
walls are delightful. Here were 
quartered the lieutenants of the 
great Asoka, Buddhist King, and 
later of the Gupta Kings. The 
entrance is beyond the town in 
the W. wall, and consists of three 
gateways, one inside the other. 
The fort walls here are from 60 
to 70 ft. high, forming a massive 
cluster of buildings. The inner 
gateway, a beautiful specimen of 
the Hindu Toran, has been topped 
by more recent Muhammadan 
work, but the general efiect is still 
good and, with the approach cut 
through the solid rock, impressive. 
On the rampart above the gate is 
an inscription of Mandalika V., 
dated 1450. About 150 yds. to 
the left, through a grove of sitaphal 
(custard apples), may be seen a 
huge lo-in. bore cannon of bell- 
metal, 17 ft. long and 4 ft. 8 in. 
round at the mouth. This gun 
was brought from Diu, where it 
was left by the Turks. There is an 



2o8 


ROUTE II. FROM AHMADABAD THROUGH KATHIAWAR India 


Arabic inscription at the muzzle, . 
which may be translated : The | 
order to make this cannon, to be | 
used in the service of the Almighty, j 
was given by the Sultan of Arabia 
and Persia, Sultan Sulaiman, son ' 


called Chudanal, also from Diu, in 
the Southern portion of the fort, 
is 13 ft. long, and has a muzzle 
4 ft. in diameter. Near this is the 
Jami Blasjid, evidently constructed 
from the materials of a Hindu 



of Salim Khan. May his triumph 
be glorified, to punislx the enemies 
of the State and of the Faith, in 
the capital of Egypt, 1531 At ; 
the breech is inscribed : The ' 

work of Muhamman, the son of 
Hamza.” Another large cannon 


temple built by Mahmud Bigara. 
The mosque is much ruined. 

The Tomb of Nuri Shah, close to 
the mosque, is ornamented with 
fluted cupolas, and a most peculiar 
carving over the door; There are 









1. Wagheshwari Gate. 

2. Asoka’s Stone. 

3. Bridge. 

4. Temple of Damodar. 

5. „ ,, Savanath. 

6. „ „ Bhavanath. 

7. Chada-ni-wao Well. 

8. Wagheshwari Temple. 

9. Bhairo-Thumpa. 

10. Gaomukhi Temple. 

11. Amba Deva Temple. 


Hath! pagla Khurid. 

Sesawan Temple, 

Hanmaudhara Khund and Temple. 
Kamaiidal Temple. 

Sakri ambli. 

Malbela. 

Suraj Khund. 

Sarkharia. 

Bawalia lladhi. 


[To face p. 209. 






1- Wagheshwari Gate. 

2. Asoka s Stone. 

3. Bridge. 

4. Temple of Damodar. 

5. ,, ,, Savanath. 

6. „ „ Bhavanath. 

7. Chada-ni-wao Well. 

8. Wagheshwari Temple. 

9. Bhairo-Thumpa. 

10. Gaomukhi Temple. 

11. Amba Deva Temple. 


1 12 . 
I 13. 
[ 14. 
15 . 
Id. 

17 . 

18. 

19. 

20 . 
21 . 


Maliparab Kluind. 

Da t atari, 

Hathi pagla KIiuikI. 

Sesawati Temple. 

Hanmandliara Kliund and Temule 
Kamaiidal Temple, ^ 

Sakn limbli. 

IMalbela. 

Suraj Khund. 

Sarkharia. 

Bawaha 3Iadhi. 


f 


[To /deep, 209. 





ROUTE II. GIRNAR MOUNTAIN 


209 


two Wells in the Uparkot — the 
Jdi Chadi. said to have been built 
in ancient times and named after 
slave girls of the Chudasama rulers, 
lb descended by a long flight of 
steps (the sides of the descent show 
the most remarkable overlappings 
and changes of lie in the strata, for 
which alone it is worth a visit to 
any one with geological tastes) ; 
and the Naughan, cut to a great 
depth in the soft rock, and with a 
wonderful circular staircase. 

There is a fine dharmsala be- 
longing to the goldsmiths near 
the Wagheswari Gate. 


I'he mountain Girnar is the 
gieat feature of Junagadh, and the 
Jain temples upon it are amongst 
the most ancient in the country. 
It is 3666 ft. high, and is one of the 
most remarkable mountains in 
India. From the city of Junagadh 
only the top of it can be seen, as 
it has in front of it lower hills, of 
which Jogniya, or Laso Pawadi, 
-527 feet, Lakhshman Tekri, 
Bensla, 2290 ft. high, and Datar, 
2779 ft. high, are the princi- 
pal Girnar was anciently called 
Raivata, or Ujjayanta, sacred 
amongst the Jams to Nemnath, 
the 22nd Tirthankar, and doubt- 
less a place of pilgrimage before 
the days of Asoka (272-231 b.c.). 

The traveller, in order to reach 
Girnar, will pass through the 
Wagheswari Gate, which is close 
to the Uparkot. At about 200 
yds. from the gate, to the right of 
the road, is the Temple of Wag- 
heswari, which is joined to the 
road by a causeway about 150 yds. 
long. In front of it is a modem 
temple, three storeys high, very 
ygly, flat-roofed, and quite plain. 
About a furlong beyond this is a 
stone bridge, and just beyond it, 
the right, is the famous -Asoka 
Stone, a round boulder of granite, 
Measuring roughly 20 ft. by 30 ft., 
^nd covered with inscriptions, 
"'^hich prove on examination to be 


: fourteen Edicts of Asoka (2503.0.).^ 
Nearly identical inscriptions have 
been found at Dhauli and Shah- 
bazgarhi (pp. 450 and 336) and 
elsewhere. The character is Pali. 

On leaving Asoka ’s Stone the 
route crosses the handsome bridge 
over the Sonarekha, which here 
I forms a fine sheet of water, then 
passes a number of temples, at 
first on the left bank of the river 
and then on the right, where Jogis 
go about entirely naked, to the 
largest of the temples dedicated to 
Damodar, a name of Krishna, from 
, Dam, a rope, because by tradition 
' his mother in vain attempted to 
, confine him with a rope when a 
' child. The reservoir at this place 
! is accounted very sacred. The 
! path is now through a wooded 
I valley, with some fine Indian 
fig-trees. Near a cluster of them 
. is an old shnne called Bhavanath, 

I a name of Siva, and round it are 
I a number of large monkeys, who 
[ come on being called. Most per- 
I sons who are not active chmbers 
i will probably proceed up the 
! mountain in a swing dJioli (p. 203), 
for which Rs.4 or Rs 5 will be paid, 
according to tariff. A long ridge 
runs up from the W., and culmin- 
ates in a rugged scarped rock, on 
the top of which are the temples. 
Close to the old shrine is a well 
called the Chadani-wao. The 
paved way begins just beyond 
this, and is now continuous from 
the foot of the hill up the preci- 
pice and over the three peaks. 
The way is paved with dressed 
granite blocks, with parapets and 
easy steps, and now presents 
no danger. The first R.H., Cho- 
diaparaba, is reached 480 ft. 
above the plain, and the second 
halting-place, at Dholi-deri, 1000 ft. 
above the plain. From here the 
ascent becomes more difficult, 
winding under the face of the 


1 See Life 0/ John Wilson, F.R.S., by 
Dr G. Smith, for picture and account of 
the stone ; or Mr Burgess, Second ArchueoL 
Rep. 


G 



210 ROUTE II. FROM AHMADABAD THROUGH KATHIAWAR India 

precipice to the third R. H. , and farther on the much larger one 
1400 ft. up. So far there is j of Vastupala (see below). Built 
nothing very trying to any one ' into the wall on the left of the 
with an ordinarily steady brain, j entrance is an inscription in San- 
But from this point the path turns i skrit. Some sixteen Jain temples 
to the right along the edge of a , here form a sort of fort on the 
precipice, which, though improved , ledge at the top of the great cliff, 
of late, is still very narrow, so that ! but still 600 ft. below the summit, 
the dholi almost grazes the scarp, ' The largest temple is that of 
which rises perpendicularly 200 ft. ■ Nemnath (see plan, p. 208), stand- 
above the traveller. On the right j ing in a quadrangular court 195 ft. 
is seen the lofty mountain of ! by 130 ft. It consists of two halls 
Datar, covered with low jungle. (with two porches, called by the 



Temple of Tejapala and Vastupala, Girnar. 


At about 1500 ft. there is a stone , Hindus mandapams), and a shrine, 
dharmsala, and from this there ' which contains a large black image 
is a fine view of the rock called of Nemnath, the 22nd Tirthankar, 

the Bhatrav-Thampa, "the terrific with massive gold ornaments and 

leap," because devotees used to jewels. Round the shrine is a 

cast themselves from its top, fall- passage with many images in 

ing 1000 ft. or more. white marble. Between the outer 

At 2370 ft. above Junagadh the and inner halls are two shrines, 

gate of the enclosure known as The outer hall has two small raised 

the Deva Kota, or Ra Khengar's platforms paved with slabs of 

Palace, is reached. On entering yellow stone, covered with repre- 

the gate the large enclosure of the sentations of feet in pairs, which 

temples is on the left, while to the represent the 2452 feet of the first 

right is the old granite temple of disciples. On the W. of this is a 

Man Singh, Bhoja Raja of Cutch, porch overhanging the perpendicu- 




ROUTE II. GIRXAR MOUNTAIN 


2II 


lar scarp. On two oi the pillars 
of the mandapam are inscriptions j 
dated 1275, 1281, and 1278— ^ates 
of restoration, when Dr Burgess 
says it was covered with a coating 
of chunam, and “ adorned with 
coats of whitewash ” wdthin. The ' 
enclosure is nearly surrounded 1 
inside by 70 cells, each enshrining 
a marble image, with a covered 
passage in front of them lighted 
by a perforated stone screen. The 
principal entrance w^as originally 
on the E. side of the court ; but it 
IS now closed, and the entrance 
from the court in Khengar's Palace 
IS that now used. There is a 
pa:>sage leading into a low, dark 
temple, with granite pillars in 
lines. Opposite the entrance is a 
recess containing two large black 
images ; in the back of the recess 
a hon rampant, and over it a 
crocodile in bas*rehef. Beliind 
these figures is a room from which 
is a descent into a cave, with a 
large white marble image, an 
object of the most superstitious 
veneration by the Jains, which the 
priests usually try to conceal. It 
has a sHght hollow in the shoulder, 
“^aid to be caused by water drop- 
ping from the ear, whence it 'was 
called Amijhera, “ nectar drop.'’ 
In the N. porch are inscriptions 
which state that in Samwat 1215 
certain Thakurs completed the 
slirine, and built the Temple of 
Ambika. After leaving this there 
iire three temples to the left. 
That on the S. side contains a I 
colossal image of Rishabha Deva, 
the 1st Tirthankar, exactly hke 
that at Satrunjaya, called Bhim- 
JPadam. On the tlirone of this 
image is a slab of yellow stone 
carved in 1442, with figures of 
the 24 Tirthankars. Opposite this 
temple is a modern one to Pancha- 
bai. \V. of it is a large temple 
called Malakavtsi, sacred to Paras- 
nath. N. again of this is another 
temple of Parasnath, which con- 
tains a large white marble image I 
canopied by a cobra, whence it is j 
called Sheshphani, an arrange- | 


ment not untrequently found 111 
the S., but rare in the N. It 
bears a date = 1803, The last 
temple to the N. is Kumarapala’s, 
which has a long, open portico on 
the W., and appears to have been 
destroyed by the Muhammadans, 
and restored in 1824 by Hansraja 
Jetha. These temples are along 
the \V. face of the hill, and are all 
enclosed. Outside, to the N., is 
the Bhima Kunda, a tank 70 ft. 
by 50 ft., in which Hindus bathe. 
Immediately behind the temple 
of Nemnath is the triple one 
erected by the brothers Tejapala 
and Vastupala {built 1177). The 
plan is that of three temples joined 
together. The shrine has an 
image of Mallinath, the 19th 
Tirthankar. Farther N. is the 
temple of Samprati Kaja. This 
temple is probablv one of the 
oldest on the hill, date 1158. 
Samprati is said to have ruled 
at Ujjain in the end of the 3rd 
century b.c., and to have been tlie 
son of Kuna la, Asoka’s third son. 
S. of this, and 200 ft above the 
Jain temples, is the GaumukJn 
Shrine, near a plentiful spring of 
water. From it the crest of the 
mountain (3330 ft.) is reached by a 
steep flight of stairs. Here is an 
ancient temple of Amba Mata, 
which is much resorted to by 
newly - married couples of the 
Brahman caste. The bride and 
bridegroom have their clothes tied 
together, and, attended by their 
male and female relations, adore 
the goddess and present cocoa- 
nuts and other ofl’erings. This pil- 
grimage IS supposed to procure for 
the couple a long continuance of 
wedded bhss. To the E., not far 
off, are the three rocky spires of the 
Gorakhnath, the Nemnath or Giini- 
dattaraya. and the Kalika peaks. 

S.E. of the Kahva Gate of 
Junagadh is the Shrine of Jamal 
Shah, or Datar. After passing 
under a low arch near the city, 
the house of the Mujawir, or atten- 
dant of the shrine, is seen in front. 
To the right is a stone platform 



212 


route II. FROM AHMAPABAD THROUGH KATHIAWAR India 


surrounding an unusually fine 
mango - tree, with a tank just 
beyond, and the shrine of Datar, 
a building 30 ft. high with a fluted 
cone at top. Here it is necessary 
for a visitor to take ofi his 
shoes. The shrine and the whole 
place are very attractive. 

There is a Leper Asylum near 
the Datar Temple for 100 lepers of 
both sexes, built at the expense 
of the Wazir Sahib Bahu-ud-din. 
H.R.H. Prince Albert Victor laid 
the foundation* stone in 1890. 
Above it, 4 m. in S.E. direction, 
is the Datar Peak (2779 ft.). On 
the summit of the hill is a small 
shrine, and from it a very beautiful 
view. The hill is held sacred by 
Muhammadans and Hindus ahke, 
and is supposed to have a bene- 
ficial efiect on lepers, who repair to 
it in considerable numbers. 

67 m. from Jetalsar is Veraval 
station. The railway terminus is 
on the W. side of the city (popula- 
tion 15,563), close to the walls, 
and about 4 ^ light- 

house at the landing-place. This 
is a very ancient seaport, and prob- 
ably owes its existence to its more 
celebrated neighbour Patan Som- 
natk. It rose into notice during 
the time of the Gujarat Sultans, 
and in their reigns became, until 
superseded by Surat, the principal 
port of embarkation for Muharn- 
madan pilgrims to Mecca. It is 
still a flourishing Uttle seaport. 
In the Temple Harsad Mata is a 
celebrated inscription (1264), re- 
cording that a mosque was en- 
dowed in that year and bearing 
dates in four different eras. It 
was from this inscription that it 
was discovered that the Valabhi 
era commenced in 319 a.d. and 
the Sri Singh era from 1113 a.d. 
The River Devka flows to the N. 
of Veraval, and joins the sea at 
a place called Dani Baru. The 
Jhdlesvar Temple, about 2 m. N.W. 
from the town, at the mouth on 
the right bank, is of ^eat anti- 
quity. Half-way to it, on the 


sand dunes, is the R.H. of the 
Junagadh State. On the S.W. 
face of Veraval there is a modern 
sea-\vall and a stone pier with a 
lighthouse. Harbour works have 
recently been constructed with a 
breakwater and foreshore pier ; on 
the completion of the latter there 
has been a corresponding increase 
of trade. An additional railway 
line, with two branches running E. 
and N.E. from Verawal, is now 
under construction, and will serve 
to open up this part of the State. 
A large Custom House has been 
built on the sea face, and near it is 
a dock estate, established on re- 
claimed land. 

On the sea -shore, nearly 3 m. to 
the S.E., IS Patan Somnath, also 
known as Prabhas Patan, or Deva 
Patan, the Semenat of Marco Polo. 
There is a horse tramway betw’een 
Veraval and Patan Somnath. 
The anchorages at Veraval and 
Patan are so bad that it is hard to 
account for the undoubted fact 
that from the earliest times they 
carried on a trade with the Red 
Sea, Persian Gulf, and African 
coast. The place is renowned in 
Hindu mythology. It was here 
the Jadavs slew each other, and 
here Krishna, the late legends of 
whom are connected with Kathia- 
war as the earlier ones are with 
Muttra (p. 224), was shot by the 
Bhil. In the Gir Forest, inland 
from Pitan^ is the only place in 
India where there are one or two 
separate communities of African 
negroes. Mahmud of Ghazni con- 
quered the town in 1023 a.d . and 
it appears that he left behind a 
Muhammadan Governor. Subse- 
quently the Hindus recovered 
their power, but it was again cast 
down by Allaghkhan, circa 1 ^00 
A.D., and the coast belt or Nagher 
kingdom conquered. From this 
date Muhammadan supremacy 
prevailed throughout the belt, and 
from the reign of Muhammad 
Tughlak governors w^ere regularly 
appointed. Through the gallantry 
and statesmanship of Diwan 



ROUTE I r . VERAVAL — PATAN — SOMNATH 


Amarji, it was conquered by the 
Xawab of Junagadh, in whose 
hands it remains. 

Proceeding from Veraval to 
Pitan (population 6867), to the 
nght is a vast burial-ground, with 
thousands of tombs, and palias. 
There are also buildings which 
well deserve examination after the 
traveller has seen the city. The 
Junagadh, or W. Gate, by wliich 
l^itan is entered, is a triple gate of 
Hindu architecture. The centre 
part of the first division of the 
gatew ay is very ancient, and has a 
carving of two elephants on either 


213 

porch, which has been a m ndir in 
front of a Hindu temple. The 
most interesting part of this very 
ancient building is that in each of 
the four corners is a carving of two 
human figures with the Bo - tree 
betw^cen them. A low door in the 
W. side of the porch leads into the 
court of the mosque, which was 
deserted for twenty-five years, and 
inhabited by Moslem fishermen, 
who dried their fish in it, but is 
no’\'r used again. 

To reach the Old Temple of 
Somnath it is necessary to drive to 



side pouring water over Lakshmi, 
whose figure is almost obliterated. 

After passing the second gate 
the \V. wail of a mosque of the 
time of Mahmud is seen on the 
left. There is no inscnption in 
it, but its antiquity is un- 
doubted. After passing the third 
portal of the Junagadh Gate- 
way there are four stones on the 
ngiit hand, of which two have 
Hujarati, and two Sanskrit 
inscriptions. Driving on straight 
through the bazar, which is very 
narrow, and has quaint old houses 
‘■'n either side, the J ami Masjid is 
reached. The entrance is by a 


the end of the bazar of Patan and 
turn to the right. The structure 
is close to the sea. Mr Fergusson 
considers that it was probably 
never a large temple ,buti adds that 
the dome of its porch, which 
measures 33 ft. across, is as large 
as any we know of its age. The 
interior of the porch is even now 
in its ruins very striking. “ From 
what fragments of sculptured 
decorations remain, they must 
have been of great beauty, quite 
equal to anything we know of this 
cla.ss, or of their age.” It was, no 


1 !nd, and East ^ Af^ek., 2. 35. 



214 ROUTE II. FROM AHMAD AB AD THROUGH KATHIAWAR India 


doubt, like the temple of Nemnath, ( 
on Girnar, surrounded by an enclo- 
sure which would make it a strong 
place. Now the temple stands 
alone, stripped even of its marble, 
like, but superior to, the temples 
of Dabhoi and Lakkundi. There 
are three entrances to the porch, 
and a corridor round the central 
octagonal space, which was 
covered by the great dome. 
There are four smaller domes. The 
dome in the centre is supported 
by eight pillars and eight arches. 
The pillar on the right hand, 
looking Irom the E., next but one 



Plan of Temple of Somnath, by 
Dr J Burgess. 


before reaching the adytum, has 
an inscription, which is illegible 
except the date, Samwat 1697 = 
1640 A.D. The walls on the N., 
S., and W. sides have each two 
handsomely - carved niches, in 
which there have been idols. 

The temple is said to have been ^ 
first built of gold by Somraj, then : 
of silver by Ravana, then of w^ood, ' 
by Krishna, and then of stone by ; 
Bhimdeva. Though three times | 
destroyed by the Muhammadans, 
it was nevertheless three time^ 


restored, and so late as 1700 a.d. 
was still a place of great sanctity 
But in 1706 Aurangzeb ordered 
its destruction, and brought it to a 
final state of ruin. 

The celebrated expedition of 
Sultan Mahmud of Ghazni to 
Somnath took place in 1024 a.d. 
He marched with such rapidity, 
by way of Gujarat, that the Hindu 
Rajas were unable to collect their 
i forces for its defence, and after 
a sharp fight for two days, 
conquered both the city and 
the temple. Immense spoil w’^as 
found in the temple, and after a 
short stay Mahmud returned to 
Ghazpi. It was on this occasion 
; that he carried ofi the famous 
I “ Gates of Somnath,'' of which 
I the so-called representatives are 
now in the fort at Agra. Sir 
Henry Elliot records that 10,000 
I populated villages were held by 
I the temple as an endowment, and 
I that 300 musicians and 500 danc- 
ing - girls were attached to it, 
i There were also 300 barbers to 
I shave the heads of the pilgrims. 

j The confluence of the Three 
rivers or Tribeni, to the E. of the 
! town, has been, no doubt, a sacred 
I spot from times of remote anti- 
1 qmty. It was near this that, 
j according to tradition, Krishna, 
j sleeping under a deer - skin, was 
; accidentally shot by a Bhil and 
I killed. The road to it passes 
through the E. gate, called the 
}<ana, or “ small," also the San- 
gam, or " confluence gate." It 
has pilasters on either side, and 
on the capitals figures are repre- 
sented issuing out of the mouths 
of Makaras, fabulous crocodiles 
I which in Hindu mythology are the 
I emblems of the God of Love. 
About J m. outside the gate is a 
pool on the right hand, called the 
Kund, and a small building on the 
left, called the Adi Tirth, and next 
to these is a temple and the Tirth 
of Tribeni, where people are always 
bathing. The stream here is from 
100 yd>,. to 200 yds. broad, and 



ROUTE II. TRIBENI PORBANDAR 


215 


runs into the sea. N. of this, 
about 200 yds. off, is the Suraj 
Maudir, or Temple to the Sun, half 
broken down by Mahmud, stand- 
ing on high ground, and won- 
drously old and curious. Over 
the door of the adytum are groups 
of figures, with a tree between each 
two. Inside the adytum is a 
round red mark for the sun, not 
ancient ; and below is a figure of 
a goddess, also coloured red. On 
the W. and S. outer -walls are 
masses of carving much worn. 
At the bottom there is a frieze of 
Keshari hons — that is, ho ns with 
elephants' trunks. This temple 
is probably of the same age as 
that of Somnath. About 250 yds. 
to the W. is a vast tomb, quite 
plain ; and below, in a sort of 
quarry, is a subterraneous temple, 
which IS called Ahdi Shah's. The 
same name is given to a mosque 
with six cupolas to the N., which 
has been a Hindu temple. 

200 yds. to the N.W., inside the 
Nana Gate, will be found the 
temple built by Ahalya Bai 
to replace the ancient Somnath. 
Below it is another, reached by 
descending 22 steps. The dome 
of this subterraneous building 
is supported by 16 pillars. The 
temple itself is 13 ft. square. It is 
of no interest except on account of 
Its builder, Ahalya Bai (pp. 123-4). 

Returning towards Veraval, 
about J m. outside the Junagadh 
tiate is the Mai Puri, which in 
ancient times was a temple of the 
sun. The carving of this building 
IS exquisite, and m better preserva- 
tion than that of the Somnath | 
temple. In the centre of the 1 
building is an enclosure 6 ft. sq. , j 
in which Mai Puri, “ the Perfect 
Mother," is buried. A legend 1 
states that she brought about the ^ 
^lege of Somnath by Mahmud. 
Hie temple (or mosque, as the 
i^Ioslems have made it) contains a 
inass of old Hindu carving, still 
beautiful, though mutilated. Not 
^ar from the Mai Puri is the tomb 
of Silah Shah. To the S.E., about 


50 yds., is the tomb of Mangroh 
Shah, wliich has been restored. 
Before reaching the shrine the 
visitor passes through the porch 
of an ancient Hindu temple. 

Near this spot is the Bhid 
Bhaujan Pagoda on the shore, 
locally known as Bhidiyo — very 
old, perhaps of the 14th century. 
It is 60 ft. high, and forms a good 
mark for sailors. 

Various coasting steamers call 
at Veraval regularly, and a travel- 
ler can go by sea to Bombay or to 
Porbandar, Cutch, or Karachi. 

(2) Jetalsar to Porbandar. 

9 m. Dhoraji, an important com- 
mercial town. There is a tram- 
way communication between the 
railway station and the town. 

78 m. from Jetalsar is Porbandar 
terminal station (D.B.) (population 
24,821), E. of the town, the capital 
of the State, a place of some 
interest. The State is at present 
under administration, owing to the 
minority of the Chief. There is a 
quarry at Ad a ti ana, the stone from 
which is famous. There is also a 
Portland cement factory at Por- 
bandar. In spite of the levy of 
heavy customs dues and the com- 
petition of other ports, commerce is 
considerable, including besides a 
local trathc with the Konkan and 
Malabar coast, a brisk trade %vith 
the Persian Gulf, Arabia, and the 
E. coast of Africa. Silk of good 
quality and cotton cloth are manu- 
factured, It is identified with 
the ancient city of Sudampuri, 
known to the readers of the Bhaga- 
vaia. Near this is an old temple of 
Sudama. The fine is continued for 
goods traffic along the shore to 
the creek^ W. of the town, where 
it terminates in a wharf. The 
place is a very old-world corner, 
very interesting to those who have 
leisure, or to sportsmen. Coast- 
ing steamers between Bombay 
and Karachi touch at Porbandar. 



^l6 ROUTE II. FROM AHMADABAD THROUGH KATHIAWAR India 


The places of interest in the 
neighbourhood are : — 

(а) Srinagar, 9 m. N.W. of 
Porbandar, believed to have been 
the first capital of the Jetwa 
Rajputs. There are remains of an 
ancient teniple of the sun. 

(б) Miam, a very ancient sea- 
port 1 8 m. N.W. of Porbandar. 
To the extreme N.W., in the dis- 
trict of Okhamandal, directly under 
the Gaekwar of Baroda, are some 
of the most sacred Hindu Temples 
in India — viz., those at Dwarka 

door ") and Bet (“ island 
The original possessors of the 
place were a war - like tribe of 
Rajputs, called Waghir,’* who 
were notorious pirates up to the 
early part of the 19th century, 
and, though reduced at that tiine 
by the British Government, still 
cling to their former traditions, by 
which each man believes that he 
is a rightful Prince. 

(c) Chaya, a village 2 m. S.E. 
of Porbandar, was once the 
capital. The old Palace is still 
there. 

{d\ Bileswar, 8 m. N. of Rana- 
wao station, a small village E. of 
the Barda HiUs. There is here a 
fine temple of considerable anti- 
quity, well preserved- 

(e) Ghutnli, or Bhumli, is about 
12 m. N. of BHeswar, or 24 ra. 
from Porbandar by the road 
passing W. of the Barda Hills. 
This place is now absolutely 
ruined ; it was the capital of the 
Jetwas when at the zenith of their 
power. It hes in a gorge of the 
Barda Hills ; the ruins are of the 
nth or 12th century. The chief 
remains are the Lakhota, Ganesh 
Dehra, Rampol, Jeta Wao, the 
temples near the Son Kansari 
Tank, and some ruins on the 
summit of Abapura Hill. It is 
about 4 m. S. of Bhanwar, a 
fort belonging to the Jam of 
Nawanagar.i 

1 Ghumli is illustrated in Dr Burgess’s 
Second Arckceol. Kep, 


40 m. S.E. from Porbandar, at 
Madhavapur, Krishna is said to 
have been married. There is a 
temple dedicated to him. 


(3) Jetalsar to Rajkot, 
Wankaner, and Wadhwan. 

23 m. Gondal, the capital of the 
Gondal State and the residence 
of the Chief, is a cheerful, well- 
kept town, with many handsome 
temples. The public offices are 
situated outside the town on open 
sites surrounded by gardens. The 
courtyard of the Palace is very 
Kandsome. Gondal has always 
been pre - eminent amongst the 
States of its class for the vigour 
and success of its public works. 
It has a College for the sons of 
Girassias who cannot afford the 
Rajkumar College at Rajkot, 
which is magnificently equipped 
and run on modern Public School 
lines. It surpasses all other 
Kathiawar schools in its methods. 
It contains the Bai Sahib Asylum, 
the Bhagwatsinhji Orphanage, a 
Girls' High School, and water- 
works for irrigation and water 
supply. Various other large build- 
ings are all well designed and 
equipped. 


46 m. Rajkot station, a civil and 
military station, the residence of the 
Agent to the Governor, Kathiawar, 
and the headquarters of the ad- 
ministration (population 34,000). 

The most important public work 
in Rajkot is the Kaisar~i~Hind 
Bridge over the Aji River, built by 
Mr R. B. Booth, whose name is 
connected with nearly every im- 
portant modern building in the 
Province. The total cost of the 
bridge was Rs. 117,500, of which 
the Chief of Bhaunagar paid all 
but Rs.7500. He was educated 
at the Rajkumar College, on whioh 
he bestowed Rs. 100,000 to build a 
ving and a residence for the Princi- 
pal, further contributed Rs. 50,000 



ROUTE IT. RAJKOT — JAMNAGAR 


217 


to the Endowment Fund, and has 
also made other donations. 

At the Rajkumar College the 
young Princes of Kathiawar, 
Gujarat, and other Agencies, are 
educated. It was opened in jcSyo. 
On the ground floor is a fine hall, 
surrounded by class-rooms. Along 
both fronts is a massive veranda, 
and over the E. entrance a rect- 
angular tower 55 ft. high. The 
entrance is on the W., and is 
tlanked by two circular towers. 
The N. and 3 . wings contain forty 
suites of bedrooms and sitting - 
rooms, bathrooms and lava tones. 
To the W. of the N. wing is a ; 
chemical laboratory, and on the 
opposite side are a gymnasium I 
and racquet - court. N. of the 
laboratory are extensive stables 
The young Princes, besides play- 
ing all manly games, are dnlled 
as a troop of cavalry. W, of the 
quadrangle are the houses of the 
Principal and Vice- Principal, with 
extensive gardens. S. of the build- 
ings is the cricket-field of 19 acres. 
The college was founded by Colonel 
Keatinge; it also has the Ran- 
jitsinghji Swimming-bath and the 
Hide Sanatorium. 

The High School was opened in 
January 1875. It was built at 
the expense of the Na wab of J una- 
gadh, and cost Rs. 70,000. In the 
centre is a fine hall. 

lu Rajkot fivil Station are the 
Jubilee Gardens, containing the 
Alemorial Institute. It comprises 
(i) the Lang Library; (2) the 
Connaught Hall, which is used for 
public meetings and official 
Harbars; and (3) the Watson i 
Museum — a famous collection of ' 
antiquities, products, and manu- i 
iactures of Kathiawar. The i 
Connaught Hall contains an ex- 
^kent statue of Her Alajesty i 
Queen Victoria, portraits of His 
Royal Highness Prince Victor, 
of all the leading Chiefs of 
hathiawar. The building is well , 
burnished in all its branches. [ 
of Rajkot there are (i) the j 


VictoYia Jubilee Waterwofks, for 
the Civil Station ; and (2) the 
; Lalpuri Irrigation Works, for the 
! Rajkot city, with irrigation canals 
i for the adjoining fields. 

A branch hne runs W. to (54 m.) 
NawanagaY or Jamnagar (popula- 
tion 44,887), capital of the State of 
■ that name, of which the famous 
[ cricketer, H.H. Jam Sri Sir Ranjit- 
j singhji, K.C-S.I., is Chief. Marble 
is found m the Kandoma and 
Bhanvad Mahals, copper in the 
Khambhalia Alahal. There is also 
a pearl fishery lying ofl the coast of 
the S. shore of the Cutch Gulf. The 
Jamnagar dyers are well known, 
and the town is famous for silken 
and gold embroidery. The Kotha 
and Lakhota are very picturesque, 
and the new palace constructed 
by the present Chief. Hence 
Mandvi can be reached by native 
craft, but is best reached by 
steamer direct from Bombay about 
twice a vreek. Small steamers 
occasionally ply between Bedi, 
near Nawanagar, and Bombay. 

From Rajkot the iMorvi State 
Railway (a metre- gauge line) runs 
N.E. to Wadhwan, via Wankaner 
junction station (26 m.). This is 
the capital of a small State. 
The country around is undulating, 
rising into hills W. and S. From 
Wankaner the line runs E. to (48 
m.) Wadhwan and (88 m.) Viram- 
, gam (see p. 200). From this point 
a line runs (41 m.) to Mehsana (see 
p. 180) for Ajmer, Delhi, etc. 



2i8 


ROUTE 12 . 


BANDIKUI TO BHARATPUR 


Ifidia 


ROUTE 12. 

(a) BANDIKUI JUNCTION to 
BHARATPUR Junction, 
Acimera Station, and Agra, 
and 

(2>) Achnera Station to Muttra. 
BrindaUan and Hatbras Road, 
and by road to Mababan, 
Gk)bardlian, and Dig. 

(c) Agra to Delhi, direct route 
(by Midland Railway) 
through Muttra. 

(a) 

6i m. Bharatpur Junction (D.B.). 
Here the C.I. Railway is joined by 
the B.B. Railway broad gauge 
route from Ratlam and Kotah to 
Muttra and Delhi (p. 169), Bhar- 
atpur is the capital of a Jat State 
(33,918 inhabitants) ; the Maha- 
raja, however, usually resides at 
Sawari, 3 m. from Bharatpur. 
The ruling family is descended 
from a Jat Zamindar named 
Churaman, who harassed the rear j 
of Aurangzeb’s army during his 
expedition to the Deccan. He 
was succeeded by his brother, and 
after him by his nephew, Suraj 
Mai, who fixed his capital at 
Bharatpur (1733), and subse- 
quently ' (1761) drove out the 
Mahratta Governor from Agra, 
and made it his own residence. 

In 1765 the Jats were repulsed 
before Delhi and driven out of 
Agra. 

In 1782 Scindia seized Bharat- 
pur and its territory ; but restored 
fourteen districts, and when he got 
into difficulties he made an alliance 
with the Jat Chief Ranjit Singh. ^ 
The Jats, however, were defeated 
by Ghulam Kadir at Fatehpur- 
Sihri, and were driven back on 
Bharatpur, but being reinforced 
at the end of the same year, 1788, 

1 Ruled 1763-1805. The Jats had success- 
fully defended their mud forts on previous 
occasions. 


! they raised the blockade of Agra, 

I and Scindia recovered it. In 
I 1803 the British Government 
I made treaty "with Ranjit Singh, 
who joined General Lake at Agra 
with 5000 horse, and received 
territory in return. Upon Ranjit 
Singh intriguing with Jaswant 
Rao Holkar, Bharatpur was be- 
sieged by General Lake, but four 
assaults on the fort were repulsed 
with a loss of 3000 men. The 
Chief then made overtures for 
peace, which were ratified on the 
4th of May 1805. On troubles 
breaking out regarding the succes- 
sion, Bharatpur was again be- 
sieged by General Lord Comber- 
mere, and on the i8th of January 
1826, after a siege of three weeks, 

1 the place was stormed. The loss 
[ of the besieged was estimated at 
' duoo men killed and wounded, 
i The British had 103 killed and 
* 477 wounded and missing. On 
! this occasion again the British 
, artillery was unable to make any 
j real impression on the mud de- 
fences of the fort, and the breach 
was made by the explosion of 
mines. 

The Walled City of Bharatpur is 
an irregular oblong, lying N.E. and 
! S.W. The Inner Fort, surrounded 
j by a ditch and a lofty mud wall, 

I is contained in the N.E. half of the 
1 outer fort. Three Palaces run 
i right across the centre of the inner 
I fort from E. to W.,,that to the E. 

1 being the Raja’s Palace. Next is 
[ an old Palace built by Badan 
Singh. To the W. is a Palace 
j which is generally styled the 
i Kamra ; it is furnished in semi- 
l European style. 

I There are only two gates to the 
inner fort — the Chanburj Gate on 
the S., and the Assaldati on the N. 
The fine bastion at the N.W. 
j corner of the inner fort is called 
, the Jowahat Burj, and is worth 
ascending for the view. N. of the 
I Kamra Palace is the Court of 
J Justice, the Jewel Office, and the 
Jail. On the road betvveen the 
Chauburj Gate of the inner fort 



ROUTE 12. AChNERA — MUTTRA 


219 


ami the Anah Gate of the outer 
fort are the Gangaka Mandir, a 
market-place, a new mosque, and 
the Lakshmanji Temple. 

78 m. from Bandikui Achnera 
junction station (R.), of the line of 
railway passing through Muttra 
to Bindraban and to Hathras on 
the East Indian Railway and 
to Farnikhabad, Fatehgarh, and 
Cawnpore. (See p. 405.) 

93 m. AGKA, Idgah Station, 

tile junction of the B.B.C.I. Rail- 
way (broad gauge) and the Rajpu- 
tana-Malvva Railway branch of the I 
B.BC.I. (metre-gauge). Travellers 
tor the hotels aliglit at 

94 m. AGRA Fort Station (R.), 
just outside the Delhi Gate of the 
Fort. 

(&) Achnera Station to Hathras 
Road. 

23 m. from Achnera is MUTTRA 
(or Mathura). The modern town 
ol Muttra (population 58,183) lies 
on the right bank of the Jumna, 
and compnses a Municipality in 
which the City and Civil Lines are 
included, and a Cantonment. The 
City lies to the North of the muni- 1 
I'lpal area. South of this comes 1 
the Cantonment, and to the S . of the 
Cantonment and interlaced with it ' 
the enclave of Civil Lines. All are ; 
hnked up by the mam Agra-Delhi | 
Eoad. I 

In the Civil Lines are situated : 
the Collectorate Court (hachahti), 
the Civil Law Courts, and other i 
public offices, the Jail, the Museum 1 
('’ce below), the P.\V. Inspection i 
Bungalow, the Club, the so-called , 
Cantonment Post Office and the re- ! 
^iclences of the Civil Officials. ! 

The city proper is described j 
helow, ! 

Outside the city proper the only | 
buildings of note or places of in- | 
^rest are the new Headquarters 
Hospital, erectedmainly at the cost \ 

Goswami Sn Gobardhan Lalji, I 


the high priest of the Natlidwara 
temple m Udaipur, in memory of 
his pilgrimage to Muttra m 1912 ; 
the Victoria Memorial ; the Dam- 
pier Park and Suburb, recently laid 
out ; and the Museum. With the 
exception of the latter, all the 
aforementioned places lie in a com- 
pact block on the main Agra-Delhi 
Road between the city and Can- 
tonments. 

i The city has recently been 
I equipped with an up-to-date water 
I works installation, the pumping 
station lor which is situated at 
Laldiggi, not far from Potara Kund 
(see below) on the Muttra- Gobard- 
han Road. 

There are no hotels in Muttra. 
The D B, is situated in Canton- 
ments. 


Cantonments. — Only one cavalry 
regiment is ordinarily’’ stationed at 
Muttra. 

In Cantonments arc situated the 
Dak Bungalow and the three 
Churches — Anglican, Roman Cath- 
olic and Nonconformist- The 
Dak Bungalow is small and of an 
indifferent character. Proposals 
for its reconstruction are under con- 
sideration The Anglican Church 
contains a few interesting tablets; 
the Roman Catholic Church, which 
was constructed by IMr Growse, is 
an attempt to combine features of 
both Western and Oriental archi- 
tecture. 

The cemetery, which is just 
behind the Dak Bungalow, con- 
tains some interesting monuments 
to the memory of ^lajor-General 
Frazer of the nth Regiment of 
Foot and other officers, who fell 
at the Battle of Dig in 1804. 

Not far from the cemetery is also 
the tomb of Lt. P. H. C. Burl ton of 
the 67th N.I., who was shot by his 
detachment, which mutinied on the 
30th May 1857. 

Muttra is served by three rail- 
way lines. The G.I.P. main line 
from Bombay to Delhi (868 m ) ; 
the B.B. and C.I. broad-gauge from 



220 


ROUTE 12. ACHNERA TO HATHRAS ROAD 


India 


Bombay to Delhi, via Nagda (775 
m.), and the B.B. and C.I metre- 
gauge from Achnera to Cawnpore, 
which connects with the R.K.R. 
and B.N. W.R. metre-gauge systems 
at Kasgani and Cawnpore and the 
E.I.R. system at Hathras Junc- 
tion. 

All three lines converge at the 
Junction Station, which is the prin- 
cipal station for travellers proceed- 
ing to or arriving from the Bomba y, 
Agra, or Delhi directions. This 
station is situated about 2 m. from 
Cantonments and the city, and is 
equipped with ample waiting-room 
accommodation and refreshment 
rooms. 

The Cantonment Station (B.B. 
C.I. metre-gauge only) is conveni- 
ently situated on the Delhi-Agra 
road, about half-way between the 
city and Civil Lines, and is used 
mainly by passengers proceeding 
to or arriving from the Naini Tal, 
Bareilly, Lucknow, or Cawnpore 
directions. There is no refresh- 
ment room at this station, and the 
waiting - room accommodation is 
very limited. 

The station, formerly caUed the 
City Station, now known as Masani, 
is situate on the branch metre -gauge 
line from Muttra to Brindaban, 
and is only used by pilgrims travel- 
ling between these two places. 

The Cantonments and Civil 
Lines are well laid out with the 
usual broad roads and avenues of 
trees. In the city the roads are 
extremely narrow. 

Motorists proceeding from Agra 
to Delhi or Brindaban who do not 
wish to pass through the city, 
should take the Delhi Branch road, 
which leaves the Agra-Delhi main 
road just South of thequarterguard 
in Cantonments, and, skirting the 
city, rejoins it outside the Shah- 
ganj Gate near the Masani Station. 

From Muttra there radiate 
metalled roads to Delhi {98 m.) ; to 
Brindaban (6 m.) ; to Bharatpur (25 
m.), to Dig (24 m,) ; to Agra (35 m.); 
to Hathras (25 m.) 

The road to Hathras crosses the 


Jumna on the B.B.C.I. metre- 
gauge railway bridge. About 2 
m. E. of the railway bridge an- 
other metalled road branches off 
leading to Gokal, Mahaban, Baldeo, 
and thence to Sadabad and the 
Etah district. 

Although the present town of 
Muttra is comparatively modern, 
the site is of great antiquity, and 
has been inhabited from at least 
600 B.c. The earliest town ap- 
pears to have been further back 
from the river towards the modern 
village of Maholi, but in the course 
of centuries the city has gradually 
moved nearer the Jumna. It is 
possible also that some alterations 
may have taken place in the posi- 
tion of the latter, due to fluvial 
action. It is referred to by 
Ptolemy as M65ovpa i] tQv OeQy 
and was a great Buddhist strong- 
hold in the Buddhist period. 

Fa Hian, in the beginning of the 
5th century a.d , found that there 
were 20 Buddhist monasteries with 
3000 monks at Muttra ; but when 
Hiuen Tsang visited the place m 
634 A.D., the number had declined 
to 2000. The Buddhists had dis- 
appeared when Mahmud of Ghazni 
came to Muttra in 10x7 a. d. He re- 
mained there twenty days, pillaged 
and burned the city, and carried 
off five golden idols, whose eyes 
were of rubies, worth 50,000 dinars 
=;^25,ooo. A sixth idol of gold 
weighed 1x20 lbs., and was decor- 
ated with a sapphire weighing 300 
Mishkals, or 3^ lbs. There were 
also 100 idols of silver, each of 
which loaded a camel. The idols 
together were worth not less than 
£3/000,000. The Brahman temple 
of Kesava Deo was built on the 
very site where the great Buddhist 
monastery, Yasa Vihara, stood. 
Muttra was attacked by Sikandar 
Lodi in 1500, and great harm was 
done to the shrines and temples. 

. ^ort, rebuilt in Akbar's 
time, is in the centre, but only the 
substructure now remains. Dur- 
ing his tolerant reign and that of 
his son Jahangir Muttra again 



ROUTE 12. MUTTRA 


221 


began to flourish, but the present 
city dates from the time of Abdun 
Nabi — one of Aurangzeb's Gover- 
nors (1660-1668). He was killed 
in a local rev'olt, which Aurangzeb 
utilised as a pretext for demolish- 
ing all the chief temples in the 
town, including the Kesava Deo 
temple. With the break-up of the 
'Mughal Empire, troublous times 
ensued for the Muttra district. 
Lying, as it does, on the high roads 
between Delhi and Agra and Bhar- 
atpur it became the cockpit of all 
the lighting that took place be- 
tvveen the Mughals, the Jats and 
Mahrattas d ' L ' ' ‘ 
century in ti ■ ' 

dominion of \ ■ ■ ■ , . 

The district and city of Muttra 
came into the possession of the 
britisli as the result of Lord Lake's 
Lmous campaign, T803-1805, and, 
c\ith the exception of certain mili- 
tary operations undertaken in 1825 
m regard to a disputed succession 
to the Bharatpur Raj, enjoyed a 
period of undisturbed peace up to 
the outbreak of the mutiny. On 
receipt of information of this out- 
break, the ladies and non-com- 
batants were 'sent off immediately 
to Agra, and it was proposed to 
^end ail the treasure from the 
^hittra treasury to that station 
also. The detachment of the 44th 
and 67th infantry regiment that 
had been sent for from Agra to 
escort the treasure from Muttra 
to Agra, mutinied, shot their Ofti- 
cer-Commanding, Lt. Burlton, and 
uiarched ofl towards Delhi, after 
‘Setting fire to all the bungalows 
and offices, and releasing the pris- 
oners in the jail. Prior to this 
outbreak Mr Mark Thornhill, the 
^fagistrate of the district, had pro- 
ceeded in the direction of Delhi, 
'^’‘Uth Captain Nixon, who was in 
charge of the Bharatpur army, 
they had got as far as Hodal on 
the way to Delhi, when Mr Thorn- 
hfll returned with a detachment 
to take measures to put down 
focal disturbances in the Muttra 
district. While he was at Chhata 


the news oi the pillage ol the 
Muttra Treasury was brought to 
him by the European officers who 
had escaped when Lt. Burlton was 
shot. The party rejoined Captain 
Nixon at Hodal and prepared to 
intercept the mutinous treasury- 
guard which was now approaching. 
The whole Bharatpur forces, how- 
ever mutinied ; and the Europeans 
with them were forced to seek 
safety in flight. Captain Nixon 
and others decided to proceed to 
the army before Delhi, while Mr 
Thornhill and his head clerk re- 
turned in the direction of Muttra, 
but eventually pushed on to Agra, 
owing to the disturbed condition 
of the country. After a short time 
Mr Thornhill returned to Muttra 
with a small body of volunteers 
and attempted to restore order, but 
the task proved too great for the 
forces at his disposal, and he and 
other Europeans wath him had 
eventually to return to Agra, 

Peace was gradually restored 
after the relief of Agra by Greathed 
in October 1857. Throughout the 
rebellion the great banlang firm, 
known as the Seths of Muttra, dis- 
played most conspicuous loyalty, 
and they and the Raja of Hathras 
received substantial rewards in the 
shape of confiscated villages for 
their assistance. 

Such is, in brief, the history of 
Muttra. The abiding interest ol 
the place still lies in its antiquity 
and buildings, and its religious 
associations. Not only the town 
itself, but the greater part of the 
district, knowm as Braj Mandal, 
commands the reverence and 
respect of Hindus. It is studded 
with places of pilgrimage, con- 
nected with the Krishna legend, and 
IS visited throughout the year by 
devout crowds of pilgrims. More 
especially is this the case in the 
rainy season, when large bands of 
pil^ms, under the guidance of 
their reUgious leaders, perambulate 
the district, performing the “ Ban- 
jatra,” or “forest-pilgrimage/’ and 
acting the main scenes in the life 



222 


ROUTE 12. ACHNERA TO HATHRAS ROAD 


India 


ol Knshna at the various iocahties 
still connected by legend with such 
scenes. 

The chief places of pilgrimage 
are Muttra city itself, Bnndaban, 
Mahaban with Gokul, Baldeo, 
Gobardhan and Radha Kund, and 
Barsana, which will now be briefly 
described. 

Muttra City. The city is entered 
by the Hardinge Gate, also called 
the Holi Gate, built by the Muni- 
cipality. The finely-carved stone- 
work facades of the better class 
of houses are well worthy of in- 
spection, and form one of the 
peculiarities of the city. 

The Eiver and Ghats. — The 
Jumna is about 300 yds. broad. 
There is a paved street the whole 
way along it, with bathing ghats, 
descending to the water, and orna- 
mental chabutras, or platforms, 
and small but well-proportioned 
pavilions. 

Visitors should make a point of 
seeing the Arah ceremony, or 
worship of the sacred river, which 
takes place about dusk at the 
Visrant Ghat, when cows, mon- 
keys, and turtles are fed. The 
most convenient way of seeing the 
ceremony is to take a boat. 

The river is full of turtles, some 
of them very large, poking their 
long necks and heads out to be fed. | 
About 80 yds. N. of the bridge is 
the fine House of the Guru Parshot- 
amdas. Then comes another 
belonging to a Gujarati merchant, 
Ballamdas. N. again is a stone 
tower, 55 ft. high, called the 
j Sati Burj, because, when Kans 
was killed by Krishna, his 
widow became sati here. Mr 
Growse, to whose instance Muttra 
owes much of its best modem 
architectural work, says it was the 
wife of Raja Bhar Mai, of Amb^r, 
mother of Bhagwandas (p. 197), 
who built it in 1570 a.d. The 
traveller now descends several 
steps to the Visrant Ghat, a little 


N. of the Sati Burj, and so to a 
sort of square, where Rajas are 
weighed against gold. There is a 
small white marble arch here, close 
! to the river. Beyond this is a 
]| ghat built by Jai Singh, of Jaipur, 
U-and the enormous house and 
temple belonging to the well- 
known late Seth Lakshman Das, 
son of Seth Gobind Das. 

Close by, in the centre of the 
town, on an isolated site, rises the 
Jami Masjid, built by Abd- 
un-nabi, once covered with en- 
caustic tiles ; its court is 14 ft, 
above the level of the street. On 
either side of the facade of the 
gateway are Persian lines. The 
chronogram gives the date 1660- 
1661. Over the fa9ade of the 
mosque proper are the 99 names 
of God. At the sides are two 
pavilions roofed in the Hindu 
manner. There are four minarets, 
which are 132 ft. high. About 
I m. beyond is the Katra, which 
is an enclosure like that of a sarai, 
804 ft. long by 653 ft. broad. 
Upon a terrace 30 ft. high stands 
a great red stone mosque, built by 
Aurangzeb, and used as an Idgah, 
and the most conspicuous object 
in a distant view of Muttra. This 
mosque was raised on the ruins 
of the Kesab Dev Temple, which 
was destroyed by Aurangzeb, and 
which, shortly before its destruc- 
tion, was seen by the travellers 
Bernier, Tavernier, and Manucci, 
who describe it as a grand edifice. 
The foundations of the temple are 
still plainly traceable at the back 
of the mosque. Excavation has 
proved that the Brahmanical 
temple of Kesava Dev was in its 
turn built, as stated above, 
on the ruins of a large Buddhist 
monastery, which, as appears 
from inscriptions found here, 
dated back to the Kushan 
period, and still existed in the 
days of the Gupta Emperors. 
Ihe earliest Buddhist inscriptions 
found here may be assigned to 
the beginning of the Christian era, 
and one of the latest contains 



ROUTE 12. MUTTRA— MAH ABAN 


the well-known genealogy of the 
Gupta dynasty, down to Samudra- 
Gupta (4 th century a.d.). A 
Buddha image, extracted by 
General Cunmngham from a well 
in 1S62, and now preserved in the 
Lucknow Museum, mentions the 
Yasd-vihara, evidently a sanctuary 
which once existed on this site. 
The inscription is dated in the 
Gupta year 230 (a.d. 549-50)- 

At the back of the Katra is a 
modern temple to Kesava, and 
close by is the Potara-Kund, a 
tank in which Krishna’s baby 
linen was washed. This tank is 
faced throughout with stone, and 
has flights of stone steps down to 
the water. There is also a very 
steep ramp for horses and cattle. 

The Museum of Archaeology, 
situated on the Agra- Delhi Road 
between the Collector's court- 
house [kachahri] and the Tahsil 
(i.e., the Tahsildar's Office), con- 
tains a very remarkable collection 
of ancient sculptures, inscriptions, 
and other antiquities found in the 
Muttra district. The building, 
which was erected by pubhc sub- 
scription at the instance of Mr 
Mark ThornhiU, was originally 
intended to be a R.H. for 
Indians of rank, but, being found 
unsuitable for the purpose, it was 
converted into a museum by 
Mr F. S, Growse. “ I proposed,” 
Mr Growse wrote, ” to make it 
*iot a general, but simply an 
S-rchitectural and antiquarian 
museum, arranging in it, in 
chronological series, specimens of 
3^11 the different styles that have 
prevailed in the neighbourhood, 
from the reign of the Indo- 
Scythian Kanishka, in the century 
immediately before Christ, down 
lo the Victorian period, which 
could be illustrated in perfec- 
hon by the building itself.” Mr 
Growse placed in it the sculptures 
excavated by himself from various 
mounds in the neighbourhood of 
ffie city of Muttra. Of late years 
liie original collection has been 
'’Cry considerably extended 


223 

through the efforts of the Honor- 
ary Curator, Rai Bahadur, Pandit 
Radha Krishna, and contains now 
several pieces of unique interest. 
Among the sculptures of Mr 
Growse are to be seen particularly 
the Bacchanalian group of Pali 
Khera, remarkable for its pro- 
nounced classical inspiration, and 
the exquisitely - carved standing 
Buddha image of the 5th century 
A.D., which was unearthed on the 
site of the Buddhist monastery 
founded by King Huvishka, now 
occupied by the Collector’s court- 
house. Among recent acquisi- 
tions the following deserve special 
mention — the colossal statue 
from the village of Parkham, 
which belongs to the 2nd cen- 
tury B.C., and is one of the oldest 
detached images found in Indian 
soil ; and the image of a Naga, or 
serpent god, of the reign of 
Huvishka, which Pandit Radha 
Krishna obtained from the village 
of Chhargaon. The quaint pillar 
erected outside the museum build- 
ing is a sacrificial post (Yupa) 
erected by a Brahman in the 
reign of Vasishka, who must have 
been the successor of the great 
Kanishka. Of Kanishka himself 
the museum possesses a life-size 
statue, which in a most realistic 
fashion shows the King’s costume 
and weapons. The head and 
arms are unfortunately lost. To- 
gether with this statue two images 
were found, one of colossal size, 
which also must represent Princes 
of the Kushan dynasty. 

For further particulars the 
visitor may be referred to the 
illustrated catalogue of the 
Archaeological Museum at Mathura 
by Dr Vogel, of the Archaeological 
Department (Allahabad, Govern- 
ment Press, United Provinces, 
1910). Price, Rs.3, 8 as. Copies 
can be had from the Press and at 
the Museum building. 

Mahahan is about 6 m. S.E. of 
Muttra, on the left bank of the 
Jumna, and is reached by a good 



224 


ROUTE 12. ACHNERA TO HATHRAS ROAD 


India 


road. It is a very ancient town 
and place of pilgrimage, and first 
emerges into modern history in 
the year 1017 a.d., when it shared 
the fate of Muttra, and was sacked 
by Mahmud of Ghazni. The 
Hindu Prince is said, when the fall 
of the town became inevitable, to 
have solemnly slain his wife and 
children and then committed 
suicide. In 1-234 ^ contemporary 
writer mentions Mahaban as one 
of the gathering places of the 
army sent by Shams -ud-din Al- 
tamsh against Kalinjar, It is 
incidentally referred to by the 
Emperor Babar in 1526. 

The country round about it, 
although now bare of woods, 
appears to have been once hterally 
Mahaban, a great forest.” Even 
as late as 1634, the Emperor Shah 
Jahan held a hunt here, and killed 
four tigers. This ancient wood- 
land country fringing the sacred 
Jumna is the scene of very early 
religious legends. In Sanskrit 
literature it is closely associated 
with Gokul, about a mile ofi, over- 
hanging the Jumna. Indeed, the 
scenes of the youthful adventures 
of Krishna, actually shown at 
Mahaban, about a mile from the 
river, are ascribed in the Puranas 
to Gokul. Gokul seems to have 
been originally the common name 
for the whole, although it is now 
restricted to what must have been 
the waterside suburb of the 
ancient town. 

The ruins of Mahaban, which 
rise as a hill of brick and mud, 
covering about 30 acres, are on 
the site of the old fort. The 
architectural remains combine 
Buddhist and Hindu forms. 
Mahaban is celebrated as the place 
where in his infancy Krishna was 
brought by his nurse and ex- 
changed with the newly-born 
daughter of Jasoda, wife of 
Nanda, to save him from death, 
which had been decreed by 
Krishna’s uncle, the giant Kans 
The most interesting relic at 
IMahaban is the so-called Palace of 


Nanda, the foster-father of the 
changehng Krishna. It consists 
of a covered court, re-erected by 
the Muhammadans in the time of 
Aurangzeb from ancient Hindu 
and Buddhist materials to serve 
as a mosque, and is divided into 
4 aisles by 5 rows of 16 pillars, 
80 in all, from which it takes its 
popular name of Assi Khamba, or 
the “ Eighty Pillars.” Many of 
the capitals are curiously carved 
with grotesque heads and squat 
figures. Four of them are sup- 
posed to represent by their sculp- 
tures the four ages of the world. 
The pillar known as the Satya 
Yug, or ” Golden Age,” is covered 
wilE rich and beautiful carving ; 
that known as the Treta Yug, or 
” Second Age ” of the world, is 
adorned with almost equal pro- 
fusion. The Dwapar Yug, or 
” Third Age,” is more scantily 
carved ; while the Kali Yug, or 
present ” Iron Age ” of the world, 
is represented by a crude unsculp- 
tured pillar. 

In the Palace of Nanda are laid 
the scenes of Krishna’s infancy. 
His cradle, a coarse structure 
covered with red cahco and tinsel, 
still stands in the pillared hall, 
while a blue-black image of the 
sacred child looks out from under 
a canopy against the wall. The 
churn in which Krishna’s foster- 
mother made butter for the house- 
hold is shown, and consists of 
a long bamboo sticking out of 
a carved stone. A spot in the 
wall is pointed out as the place 
sportive milkmaids hid 
Krishna s flute. One pillar is said 
to have been pohshed by his foster- 
mother s hand, as she leant against 
it when churmng, and others 
have ’been equally pohshed by the 
hands of generations of pilgrims. 
From the top of the roof there 
IS a view over mounds of ruins, 
with the Jumna beyond showing 
its waters, at intervals, amid an 
expanse of sand, high glasses, and 
rugged ra\dnes. Mahaban is still 
a very popular place of pilgrimage 



ROUTE 12. BALDEO — RADlfA Ki^ND 


225 


among the Hindus. Thousands 
of Vishnu worshippers, with yel- 
low - stained clothes, yearly visit 
the scenes of the infancy of the 
cMId - god. The anniversary of 
Krishna*s birth is celebrated "dur- 
ing several days in the month of 
Bhadon (August) by a vast con- 
course of people. 

f ile river-side village of Gokul, 
about a mile from ?klahaban, 
where Vishnu first appeared as 
Krishna, has few relics of anti- 
quity. Its shrines and temples 
are quite modern. It is ap- 
proached, however, by a lofty 
and beautiful flight of steps 
(ghat) from the nver, and for more 
than three centunes it has been 
the headquarters of the Vala- 
bhacharya sect, or Gokulastha 
Gusains, whose founder preached 
here. Many thousands of pil- 
gnms, chiefly from Gujarat and 
Bombay, yearly resort to thi's 
centre of their faith, and have 
built numerous temples of a rather 
tasteless type. 

Some 5 m. from Mahaban, 
on the same metalled road, lies 
another famousjplace of pilgrimage, 
Baldeo ; known more familiarly as 

Dauji,^’ The town derives its 
celebrity from the famous temple 
of Baladeva, Krishna's elder 
brother, which consists of the 
temple proper and a number o± 
court-yards attached. Hard by 
^he temple is a brick-built temple 
over 80 yds. sq., called the “ Khir- 
’^agar," or “sea of milk." It is m a 
dilapidated condition, and the sur- 
lace of the water is always covered 
ivith a thick green scum, which does 
not, however, deter the pilgrims 
either from drinking or bathing in 
It Here, it is said, that Gusain 
Gokul Nath was warned in a vision 
that a god lay concealed. Im- 
i^ediately a search was made, and 
tbe statue of Baladeva, which has, 
however, been regarded as a tute- 
Gry divinity of the place, was re- ' 
^■^aled to the adoring gaze of the ! 
‘G'^embled multitude'^. 


16 m to the W. of Muttra is the 
famous pilgrimage centre of 6e- 
bardhan. This town lies astride a 
low narrow range of hills called the 
‘‘ Giriraj Pahar," which is the cele- 
brated hill which Krishna is fabled 
to have held aloft on the top of his 
Anger seven days and seven night^ 
to cover the people of Braj from 
the floods poured down upon them 
by Indra. The town clusters 
round the margin of a very large 
irregularly-shaped masonry tank, 
called the ‘‘ Manasi Ganga," which, 
as the name denotes, is supposed 
LO have been called into existence 
by the operation of the Divine will. 
Close to the Manasi Ganga is the 
famous temple of Harideva, erected 
during the reign of Akbar bv Raja 
Bhagwan Das of Amber, tt is an 
edifice 133 ft long by 35 ft in 
width, and both in plan and de- 
sign is singularly like those early 
Romance Churches that are con- 
stantly met with in the S. of 
France, belonging to the iith and 
12th centuries. On the opposite 
side of the Manasi Ganga are two 
statebveenotaphs, or chhatr^s, to the 
memory of Radhir Singh and Bala- 
deva Singh, Rajas of Bharatpur. 
In that which commemorates 
Baladeva Singh, who died in 1825. 
the exploits of the British army 
under Lord Lake figure conspicu- 
ously in the paintings on the ceil- 
ings of the pa\ ilions. 


From Gobardhan a metalled 
road runs North to Radha Kund, 
distant about 3 m. — another 
famous place of pilgrimage. On 
the way between the two places 
IS another and much more 
magnificent cenotaph, erected in 
honour of Raja Suraj ^Nlal, the 
lo under of the present ruhng 
family of Bharatpur. Behind the 
cenotaph is an extensive garden, 
and in front, and at the foot of the 
terrace on which the cenotaph of 
the Raja and his queens stand, is 
an artificial lake called Kn<^im 
Sarovar 



India 


226 ROUTE 12. ACTINERA TO IIATHRAS ROAD 


Radha Kund consists of a small j 
town clustering round two lakes, 
called respectively Krishna Kund 
and Radha Kund, after Krishna i 
and his favourite mistress. The ; 
lakes are faced on all sides with . 
stone ghats and only parted from , 
each other by a broad terrace of 
the same material. They pre- ; 
sent a very picturesque appearance t 
and were constructed in 1817 at 1 
a cost of a lakli of rupees. The 
place derives its holiness from a 
tradition that Krishna bathed 
there after the pollution he had 
incurred in slaying the demon bull 
Arishta. 

Some 15 m. from Gobardhan and 
some 5 m. from Sanket, the termi- 
nus of a branch hne from Kosi, 
lies another famous place of pilgrim- 
age, BarsAna. This, according to 
modern Hindu belief, was the home 
of Krishna's favourite mistress, 
Radha. The town is built at the 
foot and on the slope of a small 
chain of hills and enjoyed a brief 
spell of prosperity about the I 
middle of the i8th century. The | 
four prominent peaks of the hills j 
are regarded as emblematic of the | 
four-faced divinity of Brahma, and ' 
are crowned with different build- I 
ings, mostly dedicated to deities | 
or personages prominent in the j 
Krishna legend. The fine build- j 
ings, nearly all now in a ruinous ! 
condition, were the work of Rup 1 
Ram Katara and Mohan Ram ! 
Lavania. Conspicuous among them | 
is the tank and paviUon, known 
as Bhanokhar, with pavilions sup- 
ported on a series of vaulted colon- 
nades opening on to the water. 

Barsana had scarcely been built 
when by the fortune of war it was 
destroyed beyond all hopes of 
restoration by the Mughal Imperial 
troops in one of the many combats 
which took place between them 
and the Jats of Bharatpur. 

For 3 m. before reaching Big 
the road forms a sort of causeway 
abofe a very low, flat country, 
which was once a morass and 


formed the principal defence of 
the fort 

At Dig (or Beegj the chief object 
of interest is the splendid Palace, 
or rather group of palaces, built 
by Suraj ^lal of Bharatpur. 
Though his great design vms 
never completed, it surpasses all 
the other modern palaces ior 
grandeur of conception and beauty 
of detail. Mr Fergusson greatly 
admired this Palace, and says 
j {Ind, Avch., 2, 179) of it: “The 
i glory of Dig consists in the 
, cornices, which are generally 
double, a peculiarity not seen 
elsewhere, and wliich for extent 
, of shadow and richness of detail 
; surpass any similar ornaments in 
I India, either in ancient or modern 
[ buildings. The lower comice is 
1 the usual sloping entablature 
1 almost universal in such build- 
; ings . . . The upper comice, 

' which was horizontal, is peculiar 
) to Big, and seems designed to 
I furnish an extension of the flat 
roof which in Fastern Palaces is 
usually considered the best apart- 
ment of the house ; but whether 
designed for this or any other 
purpose, it adds singularly to the 
richness of the effect, and by the 
double shadow affords a relief and 
character seldom exceeded even 
in the East." The palace enclo- 
sure is 475 ft by 350 ft., and has 
two pavilions on each side and 
one at each end. Several of these 
are figured in vol. 2, p. 82 of the 
RayyibJes of Sir \Vm. Sleetnan, who 
was much struck vuth them. The 
chief pavilions are the Gopal 
Bhawaii (1763), flanked by two 
j smaller pavilions and faced by an 
arch for a swing and two marble 
, thrones, which stands E. of the 
I fine unlined Tank ; the Kand 
Bhawan, N.E. of this, a fine hall, 

I 150 ft, by 80 ft. by 20 ft. ; the Suraj 
j Bhawan and the Harde Bhawan, 
1 S. ; and the Kishan Bhawan, 1 E. 
I 

j ^ Suraj Bhawan is built of white 
I marble and mosaic work ; the other halls 
- are of cream-coloured sandstone. 



ROUTE 12. 

again of these. All are highly 
decorated, and between them are 
lovely gardens surrounding a 
small tank. Beyond and adjoin- 
ing the gardens is the large Rup 
Sagar La.ke, and beyond it the N. 
gate of the fort. This has twelve 
ijas>tionb and a ditch 50 ft, broad. 
H»*yond this is a natural mound, 
about 70 ft. high, and a building 
wliich serves as a prison. The 
walls are very massive and lofty. 
There are 72 bastions in all ; and 
on the N.W. bastion, about So ft. 
high, is a very long cannon. 

Dig is celebrated for the battle 
nought on the 13th November 
iSo4, in which General Frazer , 
defeated Jaswant Rao Holkar's , 
army. The British took 87 pieces 1 
ol ordnance in this battle, and lost 
ui killed and wounded about 350 
men. Ihe remains of Holkar's i 
army took shelter in the Fort of | 
Dig. On the ist December follow'- i 
ing Lord Lake joined the army 
before this place, and immediately 
commenced operations to reduce 
it. On the night of the 23rd 
his troops captured an eminence 
which commanded the city, but 
not without considerable loss, 
fhe enemy then evacuated Dig 
on the following day and the fort 
on the succeeding night, and fled 
to Bharatpur. 

b m from Muttra by railwmy is 
Brindaban (properly Vrindaban, 
meaning a forest of basil plants), 
the place to which Krishna re- 
moved from Gokul. 

There is no reason to believe 
that Brindaban was ever a great 
seat of Buddhism. Its most 
ancient temples, five m number, 
bate only from the i6th century, 

while the space now occupied by 
a series of the largest and most 
magnificent . shrines ever erected 
m Upper India was 500 years ago 
a belt of woodland " (see Gro^vse’s 
^luttra, p. 174). The four chief 
^mples are those of Gobind 
Deo-31, Radha Ballabh, Gopi 
iVath, Jugal Kishor, and Madan 


BRINDABAN 22J 

' Mohan. Brindaban is famous as 
the place where Krishna sported 
; with the Gopis (milkmaids), and 
stole then clothes when they were 
bathing. The Jumna originally 
bounded the towa to the N. and 
E. Of recent years the river has 
shifted its course, leaving the 
main line of ghats high .ind 
dry. At the entrance to the 
town, on the left, is the large 
red temple, dating from 1590, 
sacred to Gobind Deo (the Divine 
Cowherd, t.e., Krishna), which was 
almost destroyed by Aurangzeb, 
but has been somewhat restored 
by the British Government. “ It 
is one of the most interesting and 
elegant temples in India, and the 
only one, perhaps, from which a 
European architect might borrow 
a few hints. The temple consists 
of a cruciform porch, internally 
nearly quite perfect, though exter- 
nally it is not quite clear how it 
was intended to be finished. The 
I antayala, or inner mandap, ol 
' the original temple w'as after- 
! wards apparently converted into 
i a shnne, and is perfect internally, 

] and used for worship, but the 
sikhara is gone, having been 
i destroyed along with the cell, 

I after which the aniarala was made 
into a shrine. Though not large, 
its dimensions are respectable, the 
: porch measunng 117 ft. E. and W. 

by 105 ft. N. and S., and is covered 
' by a true vault, built with radiat- 
I ing arches — the only instance, 
i except one,’ knov/n to exist in a 
! Hindu temple in the N. of India 
1 On each side of the original 
i shrines are two side chapels. 

1 Over the four arms of the cross 
the vault is plain, and of 23I ft 
span, but in the centre it expands 
, to 35 ft , and IS quite equal m 
design to the best Gothic vaulting 
known. It is the external design 
of this temple, however, which is 
the most remarkable. The angles 
are accentuated with singular 
force and decision, and the open- 
ings, vs'hicli are more than sufb- 
i /.^ , ihe temple of Hardeo-ji, at Gobardhan. 



22 S 


RfJT'TF 12. AOR^ TO OFI TIT 


India 


L'ient for that climate, are pictur- 
esquely arranged and pleasingly 
divided. It is, however, the com- 
bination of vertical with horizontal 
lines, covering tlie whole surface, 
that terms the great merit of th(' 
design " ‘ 

I’h IS a niodtTii 're}nplt>, built b\ 
Seth Kadlia Krishna and Seth 
(ioliiiul Uas in the ilravidiaii 
style Kiiropeans are not allowed 
to enter, but above tiie gate 
is a terrace, commanding a view 
of the temple, which consists of a 
vast enclosing wall, wath three 
gopurams, which are So ft. to 90 
ft high, while the g<ites are about 
55 It It is dedicated to Sn 
Uanga. a name ot \ ishnu (pp 
^J2. 3^“) ; anel figures o) (laruda, 
the man-bird ot Vishnu, are ver\ 
ronspRUous In the great court 
are two white marble paMiions. 
f>ne h. and \\h oi the tank, and 
.1 stone pavilion with a Hat roof, 
supported by sixteen [jlllar^, oppo- 
site the Is. gopiiram. 

At the back of the rod temple 
on the W. are, at two corners, two 
other temples which resemble each 
other. There is a new' temple 
adjoining this to the W , built bv 
a Bengali Babu It is not tastefui, 
but has a linely-carved door. 

The Madan Mohan Temple 
stands above a ghat on a branch 
of the river Under two fine 
trees, a Ficus indicci and a ancle a 
OYientalis, is a pavihon, in winch 
man^' cobras' heads are repre- 
sented. Siva is said to have 
struck Devi wath a stick here, 
w'hen she jumped off this ghat, 
and made it a place for curing 
snake-bites. On the ghat is a 
Sahgram (a species of Ainmonue 
worshipped as a type of Vishnu), 
with tw^o footprints 2J in. long 
This temple is 65 ft. high, and is in 
the shape of a cone 

The Temple of Gopi Nath is 
thought by Mr Grow'se to be the 

1 Fer-4U5s"n. hi-i, unJ .In 

2. 1^6. 


earhest of the serus It was built 
bv Raesil Ji, who distinguished 
himself under Akbar. It re- 
sembles that of Madan Mohan, 
but 13 in a ruinous condition Its 
special feature is an an'ade uf 
three brai ket arclu's. 

The Temple of Jugal Kishor is 
at the low'd end ol the tuwm. lu-ar 
the Kesi Ghat It is said to have 
been built b\ Xeo- Karan, a 
Cliauhan Chief, in 1O27 a.d. The 
choir has pierced tracery m the 
head of liie areli, and above it a 
icpreseniaf ion (j! Krislma sup- 
porting the Hill of <'iobardhan. 

The Temple of Radha Ballabh. of 
w'liich tile shrine wms demolished 
b\ Aurangzt'h, al-^o a pu turesijue 
ruin 

m from \clmeia i-, Mathras 
City (population r'.834L 

52 m Hathras Road station. 
jun> lion oi \i 1 Kailwav (p jos) 

(^) 

Agra Cantonment station to 
Helln diiaa t route by G T.B Kad- 
way through Muttra. This direct 
route, occupying ^'.--6 hours, runs 
through- - 

33 m. Muttra jio). 

39 m. Kosi. 

85 in. Palwal, and 

no m. Tnghlakabad to 

122 m. Delhi (957 m. from 
Bombay by this Indian midland 
route, and 864 m by the B.B. and 
1 I direct broad-gauge route) . 

From lughlakahad onw'ards the 
line passes through the ruins of 
old places S. of Delhi fpp. 270, 275), 
the Kutb Minar, 7 m. to the W , 
being at first in lull sight. 



AGRA AND ENVIRONS 



,>.ng o[.nnrT.')<l-{^ injop 






ROtITF, 13. AGRA 


229 


ROUTE 13. 

AGRA AND 
FATEHPUR-SIKRI. 

AGEA ♦ There are a number ol 
railway stations at Agra, but visi- 
tors are concerned only with the 
iort station (p. 403), at which they 
will arrive if coming by the E.I. 
Railway from the E. , and the Can- 
tonment station {p. 158), lying W. 
of the Cantonment (p. 228), on the 
G.I.P. Railway main line from 
Bombay to Delhi, where convey- 
ances will always be found. Pes- 
tonji's garage and petrol store is 
near the Post Office. Petrol and 
niotor requisites can also be ob- 
tained from the Popular Cycle and 
Motor Company m Taj Road, and 
from Nathmal Mahadeo, in Bel- 
anganj. 

The city was renamed Akbara- 
bad in the i6th century (Akbar 
1556-1605), but the old name has 
prevailed over the new one. In 
Mze and importance it is the third 
m the United Provinces, and has a 
population of 185,449 (163,955 in 
the iMunicipalily, 21,514 in the 
Cantonment). It stands on the 
right bank of the Jumna, in lat 
-7° 10' and long 78° 5'. It is 790 
distant from Calcutta by rail, 
^35 m. from Bombay by GI.P. 
Railway, 122 m. from Delhi, and 
779 m. from Peshawar. It is 534 
It. above sea-level. Roads from 
Agra lead to (i) Gwalior, 77m., and 
Jhansi, 136 m. ; (2) Bharatpur, 

33 m.; (3) Muttra, 36 m., and Delhi 
125 m, ; (4) Aligarh, 50 m. ; (5) 
-Mainpuri, 68 m. 

Though a week might be spent 
Very pleasant!}’ in visiting the 
eights in and around Agra, they 
^an be seen in shorter time, 
^nd for those persons who have 


not so many days at their disposal 
the following itinerary may be of 
service : — 

1st Day, Morning . — Fort and 
Palace. Afternoon.— Drive to the 
Jam! Masjid and on to the Taj 

2nd Day, Morning . — Dnve to 
Sikandra Afternoon. — To Iti- 
mad-ud-daula, and Chim ka rauza, 
on the left bank of the Jumna. 

Most people will like to visit 
some of these places more than 
once. A full day, or, better still. 
24 hours should be devoted to 
the excursion to Fatehpur-Sikn 
(23 ni 

Ihe hotels are situated at the 
S. ol the native city in and about 
the angle where the Cantonment 
boundary narrows on the W. 
Near them are the Post Office, 
banks, and club, the last at the W. 
end of the IMail, which leads E. to 
the Taj Road and the IMacDonnell 
Park, laid out between the Taj 
and the fort, and enclosing at its 
N. end the memorial statue of 
Queen Victoria- S- of the tele- 
graph office are line public gardens. 
N. of the hotels, and on the W. of the 
city, situated on the Drummond 
Road, are the District Courts, the 
Agra and St John’s Colleges, and 
bey'ond the latter the Central Jail. 
To the E. of this, and on the N. of 
the city, are the R.C. Cathedral, 
College, and Convent, and i m. to 
the N. are the Court of the District 
Judge and the R.C. Cemetery. 
The road to Sikandra, which is the 
main road to Muttra, runs N.W. 
from Agra, passing near the Dis- 
trict Jail, and the road to Fateh- 
pur-Sikri runs S.W. No one 
should miss the last, as the build- 
ings of the Emperor Akbar’s 
Palace arc unique, and afford one 
of the most interesting sights in all 
India. The Jumna flows past the 
city in a direction from N. to S-, 
but opyio^ite the fort it turns on a 
great elbow, and m consequence 
the Taj is nearly due E. of the S. 



India 


230 ROUTE 13. AGRA AND FATEHPUR-SIKRI 


end of the fort. It is desirable to 
visit the Agra Fort before Delhi, 
as otherwise it is difficult to under- 
stand the exact relation of the 
more isolated buildings of the 
latter palace. 

The old Native City covered 
about II sq. m., half of which area 
is still inhabited. It is clean, and 
has a fine bazar. The chief 
Articles of Native Manufacture are I 
gold and silver embroidery, carv- | 
ing in soapstone, and imitation of | 
the old inlav work [piety a dura) on | 
white marble. Agra is also famous 
for its carpets. There is a flourish- 1 
ing boot and shoe industry, and i 
numerous cotton-mills employ a I 
large number of hands. j 

History — Nothing certain is | 
known of Agra before the INluham- [ 
madan ‘ period. The house of i 
Lodi was the first Muhammadan , 
dynasty which chose Agra for a . 
settled residence- Before their | 
time Agra was a district of Biana. [ 
Sikandar Lodi died at Agra in 1 5 1 5 . 
A.D., but was buried at Delhi ; he 
built the Barahdari Palace, near 
Sikandra, which suburb received i 
its name from him. Babar is said 
to have had a garden-palace on 
the E. bank of the Jumna, nearly 
opposite the Taj, and there is a 
mosque near the spot, with an 
inscription which shows that it 
was built by Babar ’s son, Hunia- 
yun, in 1530 a.d. 

The Emperor Akbar resided at 
Agra in the early years of his reign, 
and removed there from Fatehpur- 
Sikri about 1568. The only build- 
ings that can now be attributed to 
him with certainty are the walls and 
the red sandstone buildings in the 
S.E. corner ol the fort. He died 
at Agra in 1605 Jahangir left 
Agra in 1618, and never returned. 
Shah Jahan resided at Agra from 
1632 to 1637, and built much of 
the fort and constructed the 
principal buildings of the palace 
and the Taj. Between 1638 and 
1650 he caused the palace at ; 


Delhi and the Jami Masjid to be 
erected, and he doubtless intended 
to remove the Capital to that place. 
Before this was finally done he was 
deposed by his son Aurangzeb in 
1658, but hved as a State prisoner 
seven years longer at Agra. 
Aurangzeb removed the seat 
of Government permanently to 
Delhi. In 1764 Agra was taken 
by Suraj Mai of Bharatpur, and 
Samru, with an army of Jats, who 
did much damage to the town. In 
1770 the Mahrattas captured it. 
and were expelled by Najaf Khan 
in 1774, In 1784, when Miiliam- 
mad Beg was Governor, Agra was 
besieged and taken by Mahdaji 
Scindia and the Mahrattas held 
it till it was captured by Lord 
I.ake, 17th October 1803, Colonel 
Hessing, who commanded, surren- 
dering after a brief bombardment. 
Between 1835 and 1858 the seat of 
government of the N.W. Provinces 
was at Agra. 

When the Mutiny broke out at 
Meerut on loth and Delhi on iith 
May 1857, there were in Agra one 
British Regiment and some British 
Artillery, and two N.I. Regiments, 
the 44th and 77th. The fort was 
at once secured by the Europeans, 
and after the two companies of the 
44th, which had been sent to 
Muttra to bring the treasure there 
into Agra, mutinied and marched 
off to Delhi, their comrades in 
Agra were ordered to pile their 
arms on 31st May, and did so. 
On 4th July the Kotah Contingent 
mutinied, and went off to join the 
Nimach mutineers, consisting of a 
strong brigade of all arms, 2 m. 
from Agra On 5th July Briga- 
dier Polwhele moved out with 
816 men to attack them. The 
battle began \nth artillery, but 
the enemy were so well posted, 
sheltered by low trees and walls 
and natural eartlnvorks. that the 
British guns were able to do them 
but little damage. At 4 p.m. the 
British ammunition was ex- 
pended : Colonel Riddell advanced 
with the English soldiers, and 



231 



-Section and Plan I't tlif' Taj MahaL 



232 


ROUTE 13. AGRA AND FATEHPUR-SIKRI 


India 


captured the village o± Shahganj, 
but with such heavy loss that they 
were unable to hold their ground, 
and were obliged to retreat into 
the Fort of Agra.i The rebels j 
burnt the Cantonments, murdered ' 
all Europeans who were found | 
outside the fort, and then ' 
marched to Delhi. ' 

There w^ere now 6000 men, 
women, and children, including ; 
1500 natives, in the fort, which ; 
was put in a thorough state of i 
defence. Colonel Cotton assum- 
ing command. On the 20th of 
August he sent out Major Mont- 
gomery with a small column, 
which on the 24th defeated’ the 
rebels at AUgarh, and took that 
place. On the 9th September 
Mr Colvin, Lieut. -Governor of 
the N.W. Provinces, died. When 
Delhi was captured by the British 
in September the fugitive rebels, 
together mth those of Central 
India, advanced, on 6th October, 
upon Agra. At this very time 
Colonel Greathed’s force from 
Delhi arrived without their know- 
ledge, and when the rebels attacked j 
the place, they were completely 
routed on loth October, and Agra 
was finally relieved from all danger, j 

The Taj Mahal should be seen 
repeatedly. The best time for a 
first visit is late in the afternoon. 
The building is properly named 
Taj bibi ka rauza, or “ The Crown 
Lady’s Tomb.” It was com- 
menced in 1040 A.H., or 1630 A.D . 
by the Emperor Shah Jahan, as 
a tomb for liis favourite queen, 
Arjmand Banu, entitled jMumtaz- 
i - Mahal, the ” Chosen of the 
Palace,” or more freely, ” Pride 
of the Palace.” She was the 
daughter of Asaf Khan, brother of 
Nur jahan, the famous empress - 
wife of Jahangir. Their father was 
Mirza Ghiyas Beg. a Persian, who 

i An a.ppj.lhuij, picture oi ronfiisioti, in- 
subordination, and n, sanitation in the fort 
in given in Mr M. Thornhill’s Personal 
Adventurn and Experiences oj a 
Maghlraie in the huiian Mutiny 


came from Teheran to seek his 
fortune in India, and rose to power 
under the title o± Itimad - ud- 
daula (see p. 241). Mumtaz-i- 
Mahal married Shah Jahan in 
1615 A.D., had by him seven 

children, and died in child-bed 
of the eighth in 1629, at Burhan- 
pur, in the Deccan. Her body was 
brought to Agra, and laid in the 
garden where the Taj stands until 
the mausoleum was built. The 
Taj cost, according to some 
' accounts, Rs. 18,465, 186, and ac- * 
I cording to others, Rs.3 1,748,026, 
and took upwards of twenty- two 
years to build, according to 
Tavernier, who records that he 
saw both its commencement and 
completion, and that the scaffold- 
I ing used \vas constructed of brick, 
j There were originally two silver 
■ doors at the entrance but these 
j were taken away and melted by 
: Suraj Mai and his Jats. Austin 
I of Bordeaux, who was then in the 
I Emperor’s service, probably took 
j part in the decoration, and especi- 
all}^ in the inlaid work, of the 
mausoleum. 

Before reaching the Taj the 
State Circuit House, with its fine 
grounds, which merge into tlie 
MacDonnell Park, will be seen on 
the left. The surroundings out- 
side the enclosure have been w^ell 
restored of recent years, and both 
the tomb and the Fatehpuri 
mosque of red sandstone in front 
of the approach from the fort now 
form extremely picturesque fea- 
tures in the scene. The approach 
to the Taj is by the T aj Ganj Gate, 
which opens into an outer court 
880 ft, long and 440 ft. wide. In- 
side the court are two tombs, and 
in the X.W. comer a small cara- 
vanserai — all of which have been 
satisfactorily repaired. On the 
right is a gate which leads into 
the quarter S. of the Taj, and 
on the left is the Great Gateway 
of the garden - court, built 1648. 
w'hich Mr Fergusson {Indian Avchi 
techi/e, 2, 31 p calls '‘a worthy 
pendant to the J aj itself.” 



ROUTE 13. AGRA' 

It IS indeed a superb gateway of 
red sandstone, inlaid with orna- 
ments and inscriptions from the 
Koran in white marble, and sur- 
mounted by twenty- SIX white 
marble cupolas. 

Inside is the beautiful Taj gar- 
den. This is laid out in formal 
atyle, the whole to the S. of the 
platform of the Taj and the build- 
ings which support it architectur- 
ally being divided by two main 
thoroughfares into four portions, 
which are again sub-divided into 
four. The principal vista, hued 
with fine cypresses, which has a 
marble water-course all down it, 
interrupted in the middle by a 
marble platform, leads directly to 
the Taj, which rises in all its peer- 
less beauty at the end, and is ! 
mirrored in the water below, llie ' 
trees of the garden, once too num- j 
erous and luxuriant, have been I 
wisely tliinned, and now admit of i 
endless beautiful views and peeps | 

the marble dome, the marble | 
wails, and the marble minarets, ' 
which can be enjoyed at leisure > 
from the seats placed about the 
gardens. Very fine views are also 
obtained from the top of the great 
gate and from the halls in the 
centre of the side walls Along 
the S. wall on either side of the 
great gate is an extremely fine 
pillared gallery of red sandstone. 
Ihe beauty of the Taj is perhaps 
aiost perfect immediately after 
^unset, or under tim moonlight , 
out every change ot light seems to 
-end new graces to it. Those who 
Unger for evening or night ettects 
must take precautions against a 
possible chill in such damp sur- 
roundings. 

The central marble platform on 
''hich the ‘tomb stands is 22 ft. 
high and 313 ft sq. At each 
corner is a minaret of white marble 
picked out by black lines, 137 ft. 
Uigh. The tomb itself measures 
I '56 it on each side, the corners 
H-uig bevelled ofi and recessed into 

hay. On either side of each 
corner is another small bay, 


—THE TAJ MAHAL 235 

i and in the centre of each side is 
a splendid deep bay 63 ft. high 
j The height of ■^e walls and para- 
I pet over them is 108 ft ; at each 
' corner above them rise smaller 
1 marble domes, and in the centre 
soars the great central dome, 

! w’hich^rises to a height^ 187 ft . 

^ the metal pinnacle adding yet 
i 30 ft. to the whole ; the height of 
i the top of the dome above the 
I level of the garden is just 25 ft 
i less than that of the Kutb Minar, 
and of the top of the pinnacle a 
few ft. higher than that. " This 
building," writes Mr Fergusson 
{Indian ArchiteciHve, 2, 316), " is 
an exquisite example of that 
system of inlaying with precious 
stones which became the great 
characteristic of the style of the 
Mughals after the death of Akbar." 
All the spandrels ot the Taj, all the 
angles and more important details, 
are heightened b}' being inlaid 
with precious stones. These are 
combined in wreaths, scrolls, and 
frets, as exquisite in design as 
beautiful in colour. They form 
the most beautiful and precious 
style of ornament ever adopted in 
architecture. Though of course, 
not to be compared with the 
beauty of Greek ornament, it cer- 
tainly stands first among the 
purely decorative forms of archi- 
tectural design. The judgment 
with which this style of ornament 
IS apportioned to the various parts 
IS almost as remarkable as the 
ornament itsell, and conveys a 
high idea of the taste and skill 
of the Indian architects ot the 
age. 

The dehcately-sculptured orna- 
mentation, in low rehef, to be 
found on all exterior walls and lh<' 
recesses of the building, is m its 
way as beautiful as the pieira dura 
work itself. 

In the centre of the tomb is an 
octagonal chamber surrounded b\ 
a senes of other rooms. Kach side 
ut the central room measures 24 il . 
ihe dome rises 80 ft. above the 
pavement, and i-. 58 it in dia- 



234 


ROUTE 13. AGRA ANO FATEHPUR-SIKRI 


India 


meter. Under the centre of the 
dome, enclosed by a trellis-work 
screen of white marble, which 
Mr Fergusson [Indian Architec- 
tuve, 2, 316) considers “ a chef- 
d* cetiVYC of elegance in Indian art," 
but which most people will rate 
less highly — it probably dates 
from the reign of Aurangzeb — are 
the tombs of Mumtaz - i - Mahal 
and Shah Jahan ; the simple 
inlay work on these and the 
more elaborate work on the 
screen deserve special examination. 
" These, however, as is usual in 
Indian sepulchres, are not the true 
tombs — the bodies rest in a vault, 
level with the surface of the 
ground, beneath plainer tomb- 
stones, placed exactly below those 
in the hall above " [Indian Archi- 
tecture, 2. 316). Over the two 
tombs hangs a fine Cairene lamp, 
the graceful gift of Lord Curzon. 
The inscriptions on them are 
" Markad-i-Munawwar i Arjmand 
Banu Begam, Mukhatib ba Mum- 
taz-i-Mahal, taufiyat san 1040 " 
fthe resplendent grave of Arjinand 
Banu Begam, called Mumtaz-i- 
Mahal, deceased in 1040), and 
" Markad i Mutahhar i AU i Hazrat 


beauty of that central chamber, 
seen in the soft gloom of the sub- 
dued light that reaches it through 
the distant and half-closed open- 
ings that surround it.^ When used 
as a Barahdari, or pleasure-palace, 
it must always have been the 
coolest and loveliest of garden 
retreats, and now that it is sacred 
to the dead it is the most graceful 
and the most impressive of sepul- 
chres in the world." There is a 
most wonderful echo in the dome. 
It was seriously proposed by a 
Governor - General of India to 
demolish the Taj and sell the 
marbles ; but that was many 
years ago, and the mausoleum and 
its surroundings now receive far 
more loving care than would ever 
have been the case under a 
iSIuhammadan Emperor. For the 
excellent work done in this con- 
nection at Agra and at Fatehpur- 
Sikri and Sikandra of late years 
the public have to thank, m the 
first place. Sir John Strachey, and 
next. Sir Antony, now Lord, 
iMacDonnell, and his able assis- 
I tant, the late Mr E. W. Smith. 

I On a lower level at either side of 
I the mausoleum are two fine build- 


1 Fardausash\'ani Sahib Kiran i | 
Sani, Shah Jahan Badshah, Taba j 
Sarrahu " (the famous grave of 
his Imperial Highness, the resident ! 
of Paradise, the second Alexander 
(Lord of the two horns). King 
Shah Jahan May his grave be 
fragrant). Ihe Queen’s tomb 
bears the 99 names of God ‘ ‘ The 

light to the central apartment," 
says Mr Fergusson [Indian Archi- 
tecture, 2, 316), "is admitted only 
through double screens of white 
marble trelhs-work of the most 
exquisite design, one on the outer 
and one on the inner face of the 
walls. In our climate this would 
produce nearly complete darkness ; 
but in India, and in a building 
wholly composed of wliite marble, 
this was required to temper the 
glare that otherwise would have 
been intolerable. As it is, no 
words can express the chastened 


mgs of red sandstone, that on the 
W. side being a mosque, and that on 
the E . side, forming (answer' 

or complement, a hall. On the 
pavement in front of the former, 
which bears the unusual decoration 
of flowers, is a representation of 
the finial of the Taj. The Taj was 
intended to be seen balanced 
between these two buildings, and 
every one should cross the river by 
the ferry-boat, which will be found 
at the end of the road which runs 
outside the W. wall from the en- 
trance to the outer covert, in order 
to realise this beautiful \ lew- 
From the farther side various 
paths lead to the E. end of the 
Jumna Bridge, if it is desired to 
return by that route. 

^ Ific ii^hi m the mieriur liartU) 
bufficient now that the marble grilles are 
htted with '.jlass. It is not probable that 
the Taj wabcvei used a pieasure*hoUi>c. 



233 



-Nurtliern Towei 
J>‘-5Cent to Water Gate. 

Masjid and iadio!>’ janate Ha/iii 
•Niiall ( 'ourts and ruins of Ralhf' 

‘ *l'en Terrace with Diwaini-Ivliasoii S side. 
nt‘ces>, where the Emperor's Tliioiie 
, , i^tood. 

' ‘ ’nvan-i-’Ara (Hall of Public Audience). 
*'|achchi Bhawan. 

Colvin’s Grave. 

• >Ima Mosque. 

‘"e Anguri Eugh (Grap-- Gnidcn). 


Saman Burj (Octagon Tower). At N. 

angle is an outlet by secret pas.sage. 
Khas Mahal. 

Shisli Mahal (Mirmi Palace). 

)Veli. 

Palace of Jahangir (or Akhai) 

Tower. At the base is an eutiance to 
a secret passage. 

Incline from Amar Singh’s Gate 
Court of Amar Singh’s Gate. 

Elephant Gate. 

Kiosk of Saliratjaih 





236 ROUTE 13. AGRA 

The Fort. — Most o± the magmh- 
cent Mughal buildings which ren- 
der Agra so interesting in the eye 
of the traveller are situated within 
the fort, which has a circuit of 
over a mile. The walls and flank- 
ing defences are of red sandstone, 
and have an imposing appearance, 
being nearly 70 ft. high ; the finest 
portion of them is along the N. side 
and to the S. of the N.E. bastion. 
The ditch is 30 ft. wide and 35 ft. 
deep. The Water Gate on the E 
is closed, but there are still tw^o 
entrances — the Amar Singh Gate 
on the S., the Delhi Gate on the 
W. Outside the latter, and con- 
necting it with the Jami Masjid, 
was the fine TripuUa court, re- 
moved after 1857 ; in it was the 
Nakkar Khana music gallery 
Crossing the drawbridge to the 
Delhi Gate, and passing the outer 
and inner archwa}'s, the latter 
with a date of 1600 a.d., a some- 
what steep slope between red sand- 
stone walls will be found to lead to 
another gateway called the Haihi 
Pol, or “ Elephant Gate.'" There 
used to be two stone elephants 
here with figures of Patta and 
Jaimal (p. 129), the two famous 
Rajputs of Chitorgarh, said to 
have been removed to Delhi 
(p. 263), and the marks where 
their feet were fixed may still be 
traced on the platforms on either 
side of the archway. This is 
flanked by two octagonal towers of 
red sandstone, relieved with de- 
signs in white marble. The domed 
interior of the gateway, with a 
raised platform for the guard on 
either side, is very striking. 

Inside the gate one broad 

road sweeps to the left, and, pass- 
ing the magazine, turns to the 
front of the Moti Masjid and 

the N. gate of the court in front 
of the Diwan - i - 'Am, while 
another, passing to the right 

as far as the head of the descent 
to the Amar Singh Gate, then 

turns to the b. gate of that court 
A short wa\ down the latter on 
the left a road, not always open, 


AND FATEHPUR-SIKRl India 

leads to the Mina bazar, between 
the mosque and court. 

The Moti Masjid, the “ Pearl 
; Mosque/' is described {Indian 
Architecture, 2, 317) by Mr Fer- 
gusson as “ one of the purest 
and most elegant buildings of its 
. class to be found anywhere.” He 
gives 1646-53 as the date of its 
. erection ; it is said to have cost 
, Rs. 300,000. It was built by Shah 
Jahan on ground sloping from 
W. to £., and the fine entrance 
gateway of red sandstone makes 



.Masjiil, 


a trihedral projection from the 
centre of the E. face ; it is ap- 
proached by a double staircase 
with a restored railing. The 
exterior is faced with slabs of red 
sandstone, the interior built of 
marble — white, blue, and grey 
veined. ” The moment you enter 
by the Eastern gatew'ay the effect 
of its courtyard is surpassing! v 
beautilui ” {Indian An hitectuiv. 

In the centre there is a marble 




ROUTE 13. 


MOTT M^SJID 


237 


tank, 37 ft. 7 in. sq.. for ablutions, 
and between it and the S.E. inner 
corner of tlie mosque there is an 
ancient sundial, consisting of an 
octagonal marble pillar, 4 ft. high, 
with no gnomon, but simply two 
crossed lines and an arc. A 
marble* cloister runs round the E , 
\ . and S. sides of the court, which 
measures 234 tt and 183 ft., inter- 
lupted by archways, of which 
those in the N. and S. sides are 
‘losed. The mosque proper, or 
iiwan, measures 149 ft. by 56 ft., 
and consists of three aisles of seven 
hays opening on to the courtyard, 
and surmounted by three domes. 

< >11 the entablature over the front 
iiiw of supporting pillars — i.e., on 
lilt* E. face— there is an inscription 
umuing the whole length, the 
letters being of black marble inlaid 
into the white. The inscription 
says that the mosque may be 
likened to a precious pearl, for no 
other mosque is lined throughout 
with marble like this. Narrow 
Ihghts of steps lead to the top of 
the gateway and to the roof of the 
mosque, from which there is a fine 
view. Daring the Mutiny this 
mosque was used as a hospital. 

Beyond the Mina bazar on the 
light and the descent to the closed 
Water Gate on the left is the 
entrance to the fine court of the 
Diwan - i - 'Am, with colonnades 
lately restored. In front of the 
fkirbar Hall is the tomb of Mr 
'-olvin, the Lieut. -Governor. The 
fiiwan-i-'Am, or Hall of Public 
Audience, is 208 ft. long by 76 ft 
'-leep, and consists of three aisles 
of nine bays open on three sides 
Ihe roof is supported by graceful 
i^olumns of red sandstone, which 
have been subjected to judicipus 
restoration. Along its back wall 
are grilles, through which fair faces 
eould watch what was going for- 
ward in the hall below, and in its 
eentre is a raised alcove of white 
marble, richly decorated with 
pietya dura work and low reliefs, 
which bear evident traces of 
Italian design. It is probably the 


work of Shah Jahan, though lack- 
ing the elegance of most of the 
buildings of that Emperor. 

The entrance to the inner courts 
of the Palace from this side is by a 
passage and steps to the N. of the 
Diwan-i-'Am ; it was \\ithin these 
courts and the Diwan-i-'Am that 
the scenes which Captain Hawkins 
so graphically describes in connec- 
tion with the Emperor Jahangir 
took place. The first enclosure 
entered is the Machchi Ehawan, or 
“ Fish Square," which formerly 
possessed a large tank A two- 
storeyed cloister runs all round it, 
except on the side which fronts the 
Jumna, where the upper storey 
gives place to an open terrace. In 
the N. side are two very fine 
bronze gates taken by Akbar from 
Chitorgarh (p. 130), and at the N.W 
corner is a beautiful little three - 
domed mosque of white marble, 
called the Nagina Liasjid. or 
" Gem Mosque." This was the 
prn^ate mosque of the ro>’al ladies 
ol the court, and was built bv 
Shah Jahan, who was afterwards 
imprisoned there by his successor, 
Aurangzeb Beneath, m a small 
CGurtyaid, was a bazar where 
merchants used to display their 
goods to the ladies of the court. 
On the terrace on the river-side is 
a black throne with a white scat 
opposite it The former has a long 
fissure, wLich is said to have 
appeared when the throne was 
usurped by the Jat Chief of Bharat- 
pnr. There is a reddish stain in 
one spot, which the natives pre- 
tend is blood. An inscription 
runs round the four sides, stating 
that " when Sahm became heir to 
the crown his name w^as changed 
to Jahangir, and for the light of 
his justice he w^as called Nur-ud- 
din. His sword cut his enemies’ 
heads into two halves like the 
Gemini.” The date given isioii 
A.H. = 1603 A.D. Beneath this 
terrace is a wide enclosure within 
the outer walls, w^here contests 
between elephants and tigers used 
to take place. On the N. of the 



ROUTE 13. AORA AND FATEHPUR-SI KRI 


India 


terrace is the site of a hail of green 
marble and of various rooms of 
the Bath, or Hammam, now in 
a ruinous condition ; and on the 
S. is the Diwan-i-Khas. or Hall 
of Private Audience. The hall, 
which consists of an open colon- 
nade in front and an enclosed room 
at the back, measures 65 ft. by 
34 ft. by 22 ft. lugh, and is a 
miracle of beauty. The carving 
is exquisite, and the flowers inlaid 
on the w’-hite marble with red 
cornelian and other valuable 
stones are introduced with better, 
because more sparing, effect than 
in the Diwan-i-Khas of Delhi. 
The date of the building is 1046 
A.H ^1637 is contained 

in the title Sa'adat Sarai wa Hum- 
ayun Asas, the Abode of Joy and 
Auspicious Home. A staircase 
leads from the Diwan-i-Khas to 
the Saman Burj, a few steps on 
the right conducting to the tiny 
Mina Masjld, or private mosque 
of the Emperor, probably the 
smallest mosque in existence. 
The proper name of the Saman 
Burj is Musamman, or Octagon, 
but it is generally known by a 
corruption of its name as the 
Jessamine (Ydsmin) Burj ; the 
chief Sultana hved in the beauti- 
ful pavilion, with a fountain and 
retiring-room over the river. The 
lovely marble lattice- work seems to 
have been broken by cannon-shot 
in some places. Part of the marble 
pavement in front of it is made to 
represent a Pachisi(“ chess”) board. 

Opposite the Saman Burj, but 
usually entered from the next 
court, IS the Shish Mahal, hterally 
” IVIirror Palace.” It consists of 
two dark chambers furnished with 
fountains and an artificial cas- 
cade arranged to fall over Hghted 
lamps. The walls and ceilings are 
decorated with pounded talc and 
with innumerable small mirrors, 
some of ^^'hlch were restored m 

1875- 

Above the buildings at this spot, 
and approached by steps above 
the Mina Masjid, are the remains 


of reservoirs and water- ducts and 
arrangements for the raising of 
water from below. From the roof 
a fine view is also obtained of the 
courts, on either side of it, of the 
Moti Masjid and the Taj. Of the 
latter many flne views and peep.s 
are obtained along the river from 
the terrace of the Machchi Bhawan 
to the Palace of Akbar. 


The Anguri Bagh or ” Grape 
Garden,” now entered, is a fine 
square of 280 ft., now planted 
ivith grass. In the centre of the 
K. side is a lovely hall called the 
Khas Mahal, the gilding and 
colouring of which were in part 
restored in 1875 In front are 
small tanks and fountains. The 
Khas Mahal undoubtedly formed 
the model upon which the Diwan- 
i-Khas at Delhi was built ; it 
measures 70 ft. by ft. In the 
platform under it aVe subterranean 
apartments for use in the summer 
heats, from which passages lead 
to still cooler rooms round the 
baoh in the S.E. corner of the 
fort. On either hand, also facing 
the river, are the Golden Pavilions, 
so called from their curved roofs 
being covered with gilded plates 
of copper. In them are bedrooms 
for ladies, with holes in the wall 

1 4 in. deep, into which they used 
to slip their jewels. These holes 
are so narrow that only a woman’s 
arm could draw the contents out. 
In the S.E. corner of the Anguri 
Bagh will be found three rooms, 
bea.utifully decorated m fresco, 
which were the private apart- 
ments of Shah Jahan The room 
nearest the river 13 an octagonal 
paviUon and very beautiful. In 
it, according to tradition, Shah 
Jahan died in 1666, gazing upon 
the Taj. To the W. of the rooms 

15 another in which stand the .so- 
called Gates of Somnath, 12 ft. 
high and finely carved ; they are 
of deodar, not sandal, wood, and 
of Muhammadan work. There is 
a Kufic inscription running round 



ROUTE 13. JAHANGIRI MAHAL — AKBARI MAHAL 


239 


them, in which the name oi Sabuk- 
tagin has been read. They were 
captured by General Nott at 
Gliazni, and brought here in 1S4J 


ihe Jahangiri Mahal, a beautiful 
red sandstone palace, now entered, 
wdb built either by Jahangii or 
Akbar. It stands in the S.E. part 
uf the fort, between the palace of 
Shah Jahan and the Bangali 
bastion, the principal facade being 
on the E. This is handsomely 
decorated with bright tiles in the 
upper portion, and is pierced in 
the centre by a line entrance gate- 
This leads through a vesti- 
bule into a beautiful domed hall, 
1-'^ ft. sq., the ceiling ol which 
lb elaborately carved, and irom 
'A Inch a corridor leads into the 


grand central court, which is 72 ft 
The design of this court, its 
{iillars, the car%dngand ornamenta- 
non, are all pure Hindu, and tor 
minute and exquisite ornamental 
carving in stone it is pre-eminent. 

“ On the N. side of the court is a 
grand open pillared hall, 62 ft. long 
and 37 ft. broad. The pillars 
mpport bracket capitals richly 
carved and ornamented with pen- 
dants. The front brackets sup- 
port broad sloping eaves of thin 
''tone slabs. But the stone roof 
or ceiling of this pillared hall is 
the most remarkable feature about 
It is supported most curiously 
o>' stone cross-beams, which are 
ornamented with the quaint de- 
of a great serpent or dragon 
< ar\'ed on them lengthwa3"s A 
covered passage or corridor runs 
round the top of this hall, from 
ru one can look down into it. 
ihe other pillared hall on the 
Opposite or S. side of the grand 
' ourt is somewhat less in size " 
From the grand court a large 
chamber to the E. leads to a 
accessed portico in the centre of a 
quadrangle which faces the river, 
jupported by two lofty pillars and 
half pillars of the more slender 
and graceful Hindu kind Some 


of the chambers are lined with 
stucco, which has been painted, 
and has lasted better than the 
stonework. The palace ends on 
the side facing the river \vith a 
retaining wall and two corner 
bastions, each surmounted by an 
ornamental tower vrith a domed 
cupola. There are many vaulted 
chambers underneath the palace, 
used as places of retreat during the 
summer heats. A few years ago 
the palace was most successfully 
restored, a process rendered neces- 
sary^ by the bad quality of the red 
sandstone originally used. 

The Akbari Mahal lie.'^ to the 
S. of the so - called Jahangiri 
Mahal Till recently its Eastern 
rooms were used as a military 
prison, but they have now been 
opened up by the Archaeological 
Department, and from them an 
excellent view of the Taj and 
river is obtainable. The principal 
leature of these buildings was the 
large central courty^ard, some 140 
ft square. The Western fa9ade 
of the building stretched South- 
wards to a point near the S 
outer wall of the tort, termin- 
ating in a buyj, or tower, probably 
similar in design to the Southern 
biikj of the Jahangiri Mahal. The 
whole of this facade has, un- 
fortunately, disappeared, with the 
exception of a small portion near 
the Southern burj of the Jahangiri 
Alahal, which shows that it must 
have been similar in design to the 
facade of the Jahangiri Mahal. 
The foundations of what can 
undoubtedly be styled the Akbari 
Mahal were all disclosed by 
excavation, and the whole extent 
of the palace is now being 
represented by- shrubberies. The 
unsightly walls to the N. and S. 
of the main courty/ard ha\e been 
covered with creepers. The two 
small courty-ards in front of the 
Akbari Mahal were probably con- 
structed towards the end of the 
1 8th century. 

In the space in front of the 



240 ROUTE T3. AGRA AND FATEIIPUR-SIKRT JviUa 


Jahangiri Mahal is the Hanz of 
Jahangir, an enormous monolithic 
cistern of light- coloured porph3’ry, 
externally nearly 5 ft. high, and 
internally 4 ft. deep and 8 ft. in 
diameter at top ; and at the X.W. 
corner is the head of the descent 
to the Amar Singh Gate, so called 
from the elder brother of Maharaja 
Jaswant Singh of Jodhpur, who 
was disinherited by his father for 
his turbulence, and was killed here 
in 1648 with all his followers after 
a fatal brawl ^\ithin the royal 
precincts. Outside the Gate is 
the ha if- buried figure of a horse 
in red sandstone, and on rising 
ground to the S.W, are the ceme- 
teries in which many who died in 
the fort during the summer of 
1857 were buried. Near it is the 
N. end of the MacOonnell Park 
and the fine memorial of Queen 
Victoria, by Thorne^xroft, The 
bronze statue, which is of stand- 
ing figure on a high base, was 
unveiled by King George V. , 
then Prince of Wales, on i8th 
December 1905. It was the 
S.W. bastion which was battered 
by Lord Lake in 1803 so success- 
fully that the Mahratta garrison 
at once surrendered. Before de- 
scending to the Gate the beautiful 
little Hindu - Mughal Pavihon, 
situated on high ground outside 
the S.W. corner of the Diwan-i- 
’Am court, should be visited. It 
IS perhaps the most ornamental 
structure of all in that style at 
Agra, and is probably the work 
of Sahm Shah, son of the Emperor 
Sher Shah. 

The Jami Masjid faces the 
Delhi Gate of the fort, close to the 
Tort Pailwa\’ Station, and a fine 
view of it is obtained from the 
footbridge to the station. It 
stands upon a raised platform 
II ft. high, reached by flights of 
steps on the S. and E. sides. The 
mosque proper measures 130 ft. 
by 100 ft., and is divided into five 
compartments, each of which 
opens on the courtyard b}^ a fine 


archwa>-. The inscription over 
the main archway sets forth that 
the mosque was constructed by 
the Emperor Shah Jahan in 1644 
in the name of his daughter, 
Jahanara, who afterwards shared 
her father's captivity (pp. 26G and 
274). The great peculiarity oi this 
l\Iasjid consists in its three great 
lull - bottomed domes 'iHthout 
necks, built of red sandstone, with 
zigzag bands of white marble 
circling round them. 

On the side of the city is the 
Agra College, which owes its origin 
to the Gwalior State, of which the 
Maharaja at the end of the i8th 
century made over certain villages 
in the districts of Muttra and 
xVligarh to a learned Brahman for 
the twofold purpose of keeping up 
a Sanskrit School and of supplying 
the Wyants of pilgrims visiting the 
shrines around Muttra. In 181S 
the original grantee left his lands 
in trust to the E India Co., who 
devoted part ot the proceeds to the 
establishment of this college and 
part to hospitals at Muttra and 
Aligarh. The College, opened in 
1823, has over 600 students and 35 
professors, lecturers, and demon- 
strators. It is affiliated to the 
Allahabad L niversityand managed 
b^'' a board of trustees. E. of the 
College, and situated m the Western 
outskirts of the city, are the Medi- 
cal School and the Kalan Masjid. 
The mosque was probably built by 
Sikandar Lodi, and is the oldest 
building in Agra. N. of the Agra 
College the grounds on each side 
of the Drummond Road belong to 
St John's College, the most im- 
portant of the Educational Insti- 
tutions ot the Church Missionary 
Societ}^ in India. The new build- 
ings, which are a happy adaptation 
of the ^Mughal style of architecture 
to modern requirements, were de- 
signed by the late Sir Swinton 
Jacob, and contain a beautiful 
library and one of the finest halls in 
the country. Some 350 students — - 
Christian, Hindu, and Muham- 



ROVIE I 3. 


BUILDINGS AND lOMBS 


241 


inadan assem ble here daily a 1 1 o a . m. 
m the cold weather for the opening 
players, and there is a lofty gallery 
in. which visitors are freely accom- 
modated. Adjoining the College 
are large schools for Christian bo vs 
and girls. Extending Eastward^ 
iiom the Drummond Road to- 
v\ards the Fort are the Dufferin 
Hospitals, IVIedical School and 
Thomason Hospital. The IMedical 
School, founded in 1854, is tlie 
largest in India, uith 694 men and 
girl students. The hospitals 
have over 500 beds, and last year 
treated 53,392 patients. 

F. of the Central Jail are the 
Homan Catholic Cathedral, Convent, 
and Schools, dednated to the 
' ngin Alary, the first with a lower 
‘‘bout 130 ft high The buildings 
• ire large, but not architecturallv 
interesting 7 'hc Mission was 
louiided in tlic time of Akbar, and 
has long been celebrated for its 
school, where the children of 
^oldiers and other.s are educated. 

1 he earliest tombs connected with 
the settlement of Christians at 
Agra are in the R C cemetery, 
which lies m. to the X The 
most ancient epitaphs arc in the 
Aimenian character. Among the 
ioinbs are those of John Hessing 
and John Alildenhail (died 1614) 
and the notorious Samru, Walter 
heinhardt (see p. 29 ^), N.W, of 
die Cathedral is the Kandahari 
Hagh, where Sliah Jahan’s first 
Persian wife was buried, now 
dharatpur House, and N. of it 
ngain the Seth's Garden, once 
i^ontaiiiing the graves of Faizi and 
Abul Fazl fp. 248) and their 
Ladli Begam. 

Ihe Tomb of I’timad-ud-daula 
about 250 yds. to the N from 
the E. end of the new E.T R bridge 
is the mausoleum of Alirza 
Chiyas Beg, a Persian, who was , 
the father of Nur Jahan, and i 
her brother, Asaf Khan, and a i 
ofandfather of the lady of the Taj , i 
and who became high treasurer i 


ot his son-m-law Jahangir. The 
tomb stands in a beautiful garden, 
which receives much attention, on 
d platform 4 ft, high and measur- 
ing 150 ft., and is itself 69 ft. sq. 
At each corner is an octagonal 
tower 40 ft. high, and on the 
terrace of the roof l^ a pa\'ilion 
25 It. sq ; and the design ot the 
mausoleum seems to have served 
for tliat of the Emperor Jahangir 
also, built b\ Xiir Jahan at 
Shahdara, near Lahore (p -;2i). 
The centre room below, measuring 
22 tt., contains the two tombs 
of I'tiinad - ud - daula and his 
wile, made of yellow coloured 
marble ; the side rooms round it 
display paintings of flower vases, 
fruits, etc., which were also 
reproduced in the Shahdara 
mausoleum. The marble lattice- 
work of the passages admitting 
light to the interior is extremely 
fine The pavilion on the terrace 
of tire tomb has a curved roof 
and broad sloping eaves, and 
contains two marble cenotaphs 
corresponding to those below. 
The whole of the exterior and 
much of the interior is of white 
marble with beautiful inlav work. 
The inlay work here is the earliest 
known in India (1628 ad.), and 
will appear to many more pleasing 
than the less simple work in the 
buildings of the Emperor Shah 
Jahan. 

Half-a-mile X. of this is the 
Chini ka rauza, or china tomb. Tt 
lb the burial-place of Afzal Khan, 
who was in the service of Jahangir 
and Shah Jahan. He died at 
Lahore in 1039. and was buried 
at Agra in the tomb he harl 
erected during his own lifetime. 

It has one great dome resting on 
an octagonal base. In the centre 
of the octagonal domed chamber, 
much ruined, are two tombs ot 
brick, which have replaced marble 
tombs. Externally it is decorated 
with glazed work, such as was so 
successfully used on the public 
buildings at Lahore ; the flower 



^42 ROUT£ 13. AGRA AN 

patternb o± many oi the panels are 
very elective, and must once have j 
been very beautiful. I 

Farther up the left bank of the ^ 
riv'er again is the Rambagh, | 
where the Emperor Babar is said 1 
to have been buried pending the ( 
erection of his mausoleum at ' 
Kabul. The river terrace <M this ' 
garden is extremely picturesque ; 

The mausoleum of the Emperor I 
Akhar at Sikandra, so named from j 
Sikandar Lodi, who reigned 148S- ' 
1518 A.D., IS 5^ m. from the Can- 
tonment at Agra. There are 
many tombs on the way, and on 
the left side of the road, about 4 m. 
from Agra, and nearly opposite the 
lofty arched gateway of an ancient 
building called the Kachi ki sarai, 
there is a sculptured horse, said 
to have been erected in memory 
of a favourite horse of Akbar’s, 
which died near this spot At 
-f- m. farther on, a little back 
from the road on the E. side, is a 
tank of red sandstone, with orna- 
mental octagonal towers, called 
Guru ka tab On the S side are 
three flights of steps, and E. of 
them is a long and broad channel 
of masonry, which brought water 
to the tank. ^ m. beyond the 
mausoleum of Akbar is a red 
sandstone two-storeyed building, 
the ground floor of which contains 
forty chambers. Each corner of 
the building is surmounted by a 
short octagonal tower. It is be- 
lieved by some authorities to be the 
tomb of Mariam uz zamani, wife 
of the Emperor Akbar, ' whom 
tradition has converted into a 
Christian {p. 245). Cleared of 

modern excrescences, it now stands 
practically in its original con- 
dition, except for much of the 
carved sandstone facing, which 
has, unfortunately, disappeared. 

A fine gateway leads to the 
great garden enclosure in which the 
mausoleum of the Emperor Akbar 
is situated : on either side of it in 
flanking walls are boldly-pierced 
sandstone grilles. It is of red 


D FATEHRUR-SIKKl hldUl 

sandstone, inlaid with white 
marble in various polygonal pat- 
terns, very massive, and with a 
splendid scroll of Tughra writing a 
foot broad adorning it On the* 
top of the gateway, at each corner, 
rises a white minaret of two 
storeys ; the cupolas destroyed 
over 120 years ago have been 
restored. There is a fine view 
from the platform at the top. A 
broad paved path leads to the 
mausoleum. It is a p^Tamidal 
building 74 ft. high, of four 
storeys, three of which are of red 
sandstone, the fourth, enclosing 
the cenotaph, being of white 
marble- The basement measures 
320 ft. each way, and the top 
storeys 157 ft. Mr Fergusson was 
of opinion [Indian Architecture, 2, 
300) that the idea of the arrange- 
ment was taken from that of a 
structural Buddliist monaster\ , 
but this hardly seems probable, 
A massive cloister runs round the 
lower storey, broken S. and K. by 
high central arches, that on the S. 
forming the entrance to the tomb 
chamber. The vaulted ceiling of 
the vestibule was elaborately 
frescoed in gold and blue, and a 
section of this has been restored. 
The Surah-i-mulk ^ runs under the 
cornice in a scroll i ft. broad. A 
gentle incline leads to the dark 
vaulted chamber in which the 
great Akbar once rested: but Jat 
villagers pillaged the tomb, and 
burnt his bones. On either side 
of the main arch some bays of the 
cloister are screened off, and con- 
tain tombs with inscriptions in 
beautiful characters. In a niche 
in the side of the room, farthest 
, from the entrance, is an alabaster 
j tablet inscribed with the 99 divine 
1 names. 

Narrow staircases lead to the 
platforms and terraces above. 
The fourth ts surrounded by a 
beautiful cloister of white marble, 

, carved on the outer side into 
lattice- work in .squares of 2 ft., 
every square of a different pattern. 

^ A chapter of the Koran. 



ROUTS FATEHPUR-SIKRt 


iu the centre is the splendid white 
monolith cenotaph of the Em- 
peror, engraved with the 99 
glorious names of the Deity, just 
over the place where ids dust rests 
m the vaulted chamber below. 
t)n the N. side of the cenotaph is 
inscribed the motto of the sect he 
lounded, “ Allahu Akbar/' “ God 
IS greatest ; and on the S. side 
“jallci Jalalahu,” “ May His glory 


^43 

The cost of the tomb was 15 
lakhs. 

A good shady road — the one 
used by the great Akbar himself — 
leads S.W. to 

FATEHPUR-SIKRI (D.B.). 23 m. 
from Agra. (Motors for the trip 
can# be hired in Agra.) The 
B.B. Railway broad-gauge system 
has been extended from Agra Fort 



f'ii l)arf;ah' 

Pancli Mahal 
Uiwan-i-'Aiii 
Jodh Bai’.s lace 
Diwaii-i-Khari 
ihrbal s House 
Miriam’s House 
Camel and Horse Stabh-' 
khwabgah 
Sultana’s Aparhneui 
I.ar^e Ortagonal Ba-<U 
Cate of Victory or Hula ad 
Itu waza 


H iiiitr & Eoutall sc. 


'-liine.” To the N. of it, at the 
distance of 4 ft., is a handsome 
white marble pillar ft. high, 
which, according to tradition, was 
once covered with gold and con- 
tained the Koh-i-nur. The wind 
sighing tlirough the pierced screens 
maintains a perpetual solemn 
requiem over the great Emperor. 
The gateway recesses in N., E.. 
and W. walls of the garden are also 
decorated with marble mosaics. 


station to Biana (pp. 170, 248) 
through Fatehpur-Sikri. At the 
entrance to Shahganj aie the ruins 
(h a mosque, with an inscription 
raying it was built in 1621. Tt 
marks the site of the old Ajmir 
Gate. Farther on is a Moslem 
cemetery, \vith a tomb said to be 
that of JNIirza Hindal, son of Babar, 
father of Akbar ’s chief wife. At 
the foot of the tomb is a monolith 
7 ft. high, with the date 1570. 



India 


ROUTE 13. AGRA AND FATEHPUR-SIKRI 


244 

The royal but long-deserted city 
of Fatehpur-Sikn, standing on a 
low sandstone ridge, was the 
creation of Akbar, who built every 
structure in it, but abandoned it 
for Agra. Owing to this fact, and 
on account of its very perfect 
preservation, it forms a unique 
specimen of a city in the ftcact 
condition in which it was occupied 
by the Great Mughal and his court 
The alleged reason for its construc- 
tion w’as the presence on the spot 
of the Chishti Saint, Shaikh 
Salim ; and the undoubted reason 
of its desertion was the difficulty 
of obtaining good water in the 
place and the unhealthiness of its 
surroundings 

From the arrangement of the 
buildings it is evident that Akbar 
had the whole carefully planned 
out. This will be seen by the 
position of the Khwabgah, Akbar’s 
private room, which commands 
the Daftar Khana, Record Office, 
and the whole of the principal 
buildings, and from which he 
could reach, without^ being 
observed, the Jodh Bai ” Palace, 
Miriam's House, Birbahs House, 
the Panch Mahal, I'urkish Sul- 
tana’s House, Council Chamber, 
etc., etc. Inside the old walls of 
the city and about il- m. from 
Fatehpur and Sikri the road 
divides, that to the left passing 
under the ridge and to the village 
at the foot of the steps below' the 
Buland Darwaza, and that going 
sfrafpit on ■ gradually ascending 
the ridge to the palace. This 
passes beneath the Naubat Khana, 
from the upper rooms of which 
musicians played as Akbar entered 
the city. Farther left are the 
remains of the Treasury, and oppo- 
site it what is known traditionally 
as the Mint, a large cpiadrangular 
building. Near the mint a new 
Travellers’ Rest House has been 
built. Beyond this the road 
enters the inner enceinte of the 
palace and the court in front 
of the Diwan - i - ’Am, measur- 
ing some 366 ft. from N. to S. by 


1 81 ft. from E. to W., and sur- 
rounded by a flat-roofed cloister. 
On the W. side is the Audience 
Hall, with a deep veranda in 
front, and an isolated space for 
the Emperor between tw'o pierced 
stone screens of fine geometric 
design. The room behind has a 
peculiar roof, which was painted. 
The road leads through the court- 
yard to the Daftar Khana, or 
Record Office, once tlie D.B. On 
the back is a staircase leading to 
the roof, from w'hich there is a 
fine view' of the city. The inner 
stone partition w^'alls are modern. 
In front, lacing N., is Akbar’s 
Khwabgah, or Sleeping Apartment, 
-literally “ House of Dream'-..” 
Written on the internal walls over 
the architraves of the doors arc 
some Persian complimentary^ verses 
(much (Sefaced). The remains ol 
the paintings which once decor- 
ated it are now very slight. Below 
is a room, and at the E. end of it a 
platform, supported by tw'o splen- 
did red sandstone shafts, beauti- 
fully carved. Probably a Hindu 
I priest lived here. The space to 
I the N formed the Khas Mahal. 

At the S.H. corner of this court- 
yard is the “ Turkish Queen’s ” 
House, ^ which many may consider 
the most interesting apartment 
of all. As it now stands it consists 
of only one small chamber, 15 ft. 
by 15 ft. Every square inch is 
carved, including the soffits of the 
cornices. The ceiling and decora- 
tion of the veranda pillars and 
pilaster.s are exceptionally tine. 
Inside is a most elaborate dado 
about 4 ft. high, consisting of 
eight sculptured panels represent- 
ing forest views, animal life, etc. 
Above the W'all takes the form of 
a stone lattice screen, the divisions 
of wffiich w'ere used as shelves. 
Much of the carvang is curiously 
like Chinese work, and reminds 
one of what Abui Fazl savs of the 
local red sandstone : Clever 

workmen chisel it so skilfully as 

1 KumI buUaua. 



ROUTE I 


FATEHPUR-SIKRl 


245 


3 - 


fio turner could do with wood, and 
Iheir works vie vnth tli^ piclurc- 
in)oU?> oi Mam” {a legcudaiy 
Persian painter). 

W is the Girls’ School, a small, ' 
plain building, carried on square 
stone piers. Upon the paving- 
stones of the open space in 
front (E.) is the Pachisi (“ chess ”) 
board, with the Emperor's stone 
seat in the centre, in the form of a 
cross laid out in coloured pave- 
ment, and it is said the game was 
played with slave girls as pieces 
To make the moves. 

Just to the N. of this is the 
Pancli Mahal, a building of five i 
store\ s, borne by open colonnades, i 
each tier being smaller than the 
one below, till nothing but a small 
kiosk remains a-top. It was 
probably erected for the ladies of 
the court as a pleasure resort, as 
the sides were originally enclosed 
\\itli stone screens. The first fioor . 
IS remarkable on account of the i 
variety of the 56 columns which i 
support the storey above, no two 
being alike in design. Many oi ' 
the shafts are similar, but the | 
caps vmry ; at the angles of one ; 
are elephants' heads with inter- ; 
Uced trunks ; on another is a i 
man gathering fruit. On the 
angle is a group of four 
columns, which should be exam- 
ined. From the topmost floor j 
there is a splendid view. 

At the N. of the quadrangle is * 
the Diwan - i - Khas, or “Private , 
Hall,' ” or Council Chamber. From ^ 
the outside it appears to be two ! 
^tore\s high, but on entering it is 
found to consist of one only, vith 
^1 central pillar crowned by an j 
immense circular corbelled capital, , 
radiating from which to the four | 
corners of the building are four ! 
stone causeways enclosed by open * 
trellis stone balustrades (restored) . 
Iradition says that in the centre I 
of this capital the Emperor sat, i 
whilst the corners were occupied ! 


by his four Ministers. The shaft 
is beautifully carved, and deserves 
care till study. On the V and W. 
bides are stone staircases communi- 
cating with the roof. The open 
screen-work in the windows is 
modern. A few feet to the W. is 
the t)uilding known as the Ankli 
Michaiiii. The story told is that 
the Emperor here played hide-and- 
seek with the ladies of the court ; 
but it was most likely used for 
records It consists of three large, 
lofty rooms, surrounded by narrow 
passages, lighted by stone screen 
\Wndows. The ceilings of two of 
the rooms are coved, but the third 
is flat, and supported on struts or- 
namented vith grotesque carving. 
In front of the S E. corner is 
a small canopied structure used 
by the astrologer, vrho probably 
was a Hindu Guru, or “ teacher.” 
It is in the style of architecture 
used by the Hindus during the 
eleventh and twelfth centuries. 
I'nder the architraves are curi- 
ously-carved struts issuing from 
the mouths of monsters dowelled 
into the shafts at the corners. The 
under side of the dome was 
painted. Adjoining these build- 
ings to the \V. is the Hospital, 
with some of the stone partitions 
forming the wards still extant. 
The ceilings are of solid slabs ot 
stone, carved on the exterior to 
represent tiles. 

Outside the W. side of the Khas 
Mahal enclosure is the House of 
Miriam (traditionally a Portu- 
guese Christian, but really the 
Jaipur Princess who bore the title 
^lariam uz zamani, and was 
mother ol Prince Salim, afterwards 
the Emperor Jahangir), a small 
buihling with defaced frescoes in 
the n idles and upon the walls and 
piers of the veranda. One, in 
which the wings of angels are dis- 
tinctly visible, has been thought to 
suggest the Annunciation, At one 
time the whole house was painted 
inside and out. The original 
name Sonahn Makan, or * Golden 



246 ROUTE 13. AGRA AND FATEHPUR-SIKRI India 


House/' was given it on account 
of the profuse gilding with which 
its walls were adorned. On the 
1 N/W. IS Miriam's Garden, and at 
the S.E. angle her bath, with a 
large column in the centre. On 
the W. side is the Nagina, or 
Ladies’ Mosque, and the remains 
of a small Turkish bath. At the S 
end of the garden is a small fish 
tank, which, together with the 
stone pavement of the garden, was 
brought to light by Mr E. \V. 
Smith. 

To the N.W. a road leads to the 
Hathi Pol (Elephant Gate) on the 
N. of the city. Over the \V. arch- i 
way, 20 ft. from the ground, are 
two life - sized elephants much 
mutilated — probably by Aurang- 
zeb. To the left is the Sangiu 
Burj, a groined bastion or keep, 
said to have been the commence- 
ment of the fortifications planned 
by Akbar, but abandoned on 
account of objections raised by 
Shaikh Salim Chishti. Dowm the 
* old stone-paved road on the left is 
the Karawan Sarai (caravanserai) 

It consists of a large court 272 ft. 
by 246 ft., surrounded by the 
merchants' hostels. Formerly the 
S.E. side was three storeys high. 
At the N, end, beyond the Sarai, 
^.tands the Hiran Minar (“Deer 
{ Minaret”), a circular tower some 
70 ft. high, studded wdth protrud- 
ing elephants' tusks of stone. 
Tradition says that it is erected 
over the grave of Akbar’s favour- 
ite elephant, and that from the 
lantern in the top the Emperor 
shot antelope and other game 
driven under it by beaters The 
land to the N. and W. w'^as a large 
lake in Akbar' s time. 

; On the left of the road returning 
to the Hath! Pol is a very fine 
•stone well surrounded by rooms 
and staircases, wLich formed a 
part of the waterworks. The 
water was lifted from this level by 
a series of Persian wheels and a 
system of reser\’oirs to the arched 
gate on the N.W. corner of Birbai's 


House, and thence dispensed 
throughout the palace 

The Palace of Birhal stands to , 
the S.W. of Miriam’s Garden, near - 
the N.W. corner of the Jodh Bai . 
palace. It is the finest in Fateh- 
pur-Sikri, and is said to ha\'e been 
built by Raja Birbal for his 
daughter, who, how^ever, was not 
one of the wives of Akbar. It is 
a trvo - storeyed building of red 
sandstone standing on a raised 
platform, and consists of four 
rooms 15 ft. square, and two 
entrance porches on the ground 
floor and two above with small 
terraces in front of them, enclosed 
by stone screens, forming a ladies' 
promenade. Over the upper 
rooms are flat - nbbed cupolas, 
carried on octagonal drums, and 
supported pn richly - ornamented 
corbel brackets stretching across 
the angles of the rooms ; and the 
stone - panelled walls and niches 
are covered with intricate pat- 
terns. The ceilings of the lower 
rooms are supported on a fine and 
unique frieze, and the whole of the 
interior-pilasters, recesses, walls, 
and cusp-arched doorways — are 
elaborately and beautifully carved 
with geometrical patterns. The 
I exterior walls are almost as pro- 
fusel y ornamented. No wood has 
; been used in the construction of 
1 this extraordinary building, to 
which the words of Victor Hugo 
1 have been applied . ” If it were 
not the most minute of palaces, 

, it was the most gigantic of jewel- 
' cases.” Raja Birbal was cele- 
brated for his wit and learning, 
and was the only Hindu of emi- 
nence who embraced the new 
religion of Akbar, whose favourite 
courtier he v^as. He perished 
with the \yhoie of the army he was 
commanding m the Yusafzai 
country to the N.E. of Peshawar 
in 15S6. 

S, of Birbai’s house are the ! 
Stables for 102 horses and nearly t 
as many camels. In some of the ' 
mangers stone rings tor the horse>/ 



ROUTE 13. FATEHPUR SIKRI 


247 


halters still remain, and on the 
V W Side one of the old doors. 
The camel stables are lighted bv 
openings in the root. 

The Palace of Jodh Bai is prob- 
ably erroneously so called, as it is 
more likely that it was used by the 
Emperor or by his chief wife, 
Sultana Rakiya, his lirst cousin. 
The entrance is on the E from the 
open space in front of the Record 
Office. Itis a quadrangular building 
232 ft. by 215 ft. The courtyard 
wTthin has reception rooms on the 
X., S., and W. sides, connected by ^ 
<i fiat-roofed corridor partly closed | 
by stone walls. The room on the ' 
W. is more ornate than the others, 
and in the rear wall is a fireplace. 
There are chambers above, and 
those on the N. and S. sides rise 
to two storeys ; they are gable- 
roofed and ornamented with blue j 
rnamelied tiling, recalling the 
Alan jMandir Palace of Gwalior 
tp. 15 3). At the angles the cham- 
bers are surmounted by cupolas, 
ori^nally painted. Overlooking 
Miriam’s garden is a small pro- 
jecting room, the walls of which 
are entirely composed of beauti- 
ful stone lattice work. From the 
mezzanine floor on the N. side a 


work screens, and has doors ot 
solid ebonv, ornamented witlj 
brass. The canopy over the tomb 
of the .vont is inlaid with mother 
of-pearl, hung with the usual 
display of ostrich eggs. On the 
cenotaph is w’ntten the date of the 
saint’s death and the date of the 
completion of the building, 1580, 
“ May God hallow his tomb !— 
the beloved helper of the sect and 
its saint, Shaikh Salim, whose 
miraculous gifts and propinquity 
to the Divine Being are celebrated, 
and by whom the lamp of the 
family of Chishti is illuminated. 
Be not double-sighted, looking to 
the transitory self, as well as to the 
everlasting Deity. The year of 
his decease is known throughout 
the world.” ^ The brackets which 
support the dripstone or eaves of 
the tomb are copies of those in the 
old mosque^ of the stone-masons. 
Childless \vomen, both Hindu and 
Muhammadan, resort to the tomb 
and pray the saint to intercede in 
their favour. On the N. of the 
quadrangle is also the tomb of 
Islam Khan, surmounted with a 
cupola ; he wms the grandson of 
the saint and Governor of Bengal. 

The Mosque proper (liwan), to 
the W., is said to be a copy of 


dosed passage leads to a garden 
.1 butting on the waterworks, be- 
''ide which a gallery passed to 
the N. side of the Sarai near the 
Hiran Minar, It is now^ in ruins, 
and not easy of identification. In 
the passage, and just before the 
garden is reached, is a very fine 
stone screen beneath a ^ small 
cupola. 

The Dargah Mosque hes S.W. of 
the Jodh Bai Palace, The E. gate, 
called the Badshahi, or ” royal ” 
gate, opens into the quadrangle, 
which measures 433 ft. by 366 ft. 
To the right is the Tomb, or 
Dargah, of Shaikh Salim Chishti, 
grandson of the Shakkar Ganj Pir, 
who is buried at Pak Pattan {see 
pp. 190 and 354). It is surrounded 
by beautiful white marble lattice- 


the one at Mecca. It is about 70 
ft. high, and very beautiful. It 
consists of three interior square 
chambers surrounded by rows of 
lofty pillars of Hindu type. At 
the N. and S. ends are zenana 
chambers. Going out by a door 
at the back of the mosque, in an 
enclosure on the right, is an infant’s 
tomb, said to be that of the saint’s 
son, w'hose life w^as sacrificed at the 
age of six months in order that 
: Akbar’s son (Jahangir) might live 

I I All the ln^Cl]ption6 here may be founil 
I m the Miftah-iil-Tarjuarikh. by John 
I pnnted at As:ra. 

1 “ This IS outside the quadr.^ngle and W. 

1 of the mosque, where Shaikh Salim lived 
j his hermit life in a cave now covered hy a 
1 room In a portico on the right of the o’d 
mosque the vaint taught his disciples qe tore 
1 the place had attracted the notice of 

1 royalty. 



India 


248 ROUTE 13. AGRA AND FATEHPUR-SIKRI 


when born. In the S. wail of the 
quadrangle is the Gate of Victory, 
Buland Darwasa (“ high gate ”), 
which towers to the height oJf 
130 ft. Mr Fergusson [Indian 
Architecture, 2, 297) expresses the 
opinion that when looked at from 
below its appearance is noble 
beyond that of any portal attached 
to any mosque in India, perhaps in 
the whole world. The grandeur 
of this great height is increased by 
a fine flight of steps on the outside, 
giving a total height of 172 ft.^ 
There is a grand view from the 
top. 

In the archway is an inscription 
on the left hand going out, which 
says that the “ King of Kings, 
Shadow of God, Jalal - ud ~ din 
Muhammad Akbar, the Emperor, 
on his return from conquering the 
kingdoms of the S. and Khandesh, 
formerly called Dhandesh, came to 
Fatehpur in the 46th year of his 
reign (corresponding to 1601 a.d.), 
and proceeded from thence to 
‘\gra." On the opposite side is 
inscribed : “ Isa (Jesus), on whom 
be peace, said : ' The world is a 
bridge, pass over it, but build no 
house on it. The world endures 
but an hour, spend it in devo- 
tion.' " The doors of this great 
gateway are studded vdth horse- 
shoes, affixed by the owners of 
sick horses, who implore the 
prayers of the saint for their 
recovery. From the steps, or, 
better still, from the summit of the 
gate, may be seen the villages of 
Sikri and Fatehpur and the sur- 
rounding tract of barren country. 
To the W. of the steps is a large 
well, into w'hich boys and men 
used to' spring from the walls from 
heights varying from 30 ft to 80 ft. ; 
but the practice has now been 
prohibited. A Mela, or fair, com- 
mences on the 20th of Ramzan, 
the anniversary of the saint's 
death, and lasts for eight days. 
In front of the .steps are some 
Turkish baths. 

^ The gate and slirine are snecjaliy nnttced 
hv the travel lei Fim h 




(Dutside the K. wall of the 
Dargah are the houses of the 
brothers Abul Fazl and Faizi, the 
learned favourites of Akbar and 
^ followers of his new religion, now 
used as a boys ’ school A little to 
: the N. E . of the Record Office to the 
right of the road to the Dwani-i- 
'Am, is the Haldui's, or doctor's 
, ‘ house, and a very large and fine 
Hammam, the \valls and ceilings of 
which are richly ornamented with 
stamped plaster - work. To the 
right on leaving, and adjoining the 
high road below, is a spacious and 
interesting Baoli, from which the 
; baths and this part of the city 
^ were supplied. Leading to a well 
at one end is a broad staircase 
enclosed on each side by rooms. 
Around the well are chambers for 
Persian wheels for drawing the 
water. 

25 m, S.W. of Fatehpur-Sikn is 
Bxana (pp. 170, 243), once a famous 
city, near which Babar defeated 
the Sanga Rana (Singram Singh) 
of Chitorgarh on i6th March 1527, 
after sustaining a severe check 
from this Prince in the previous 
month ; it was from Babar 's 
^victory that Sikri received the 
Jname of Fatehpur. The Rana, 
iwho was the bravest Hindu 
warrior of his day, is said b} 
Colonel Tod to have borne eight \ 
wounds on his body. He refused 
to return as a defeated Chief to 
Chitor ; and his grandson, Maha- 
rana Udai Singh, deserted that 
place for Udaipur after its capture 
by Humayun (1550-56). It belongs 
to the Bharatpur State, and has a 
popul&.tion of 7000. Biana was first 
invaded by the Muhammadans 
under Muhammad Ghori in 1196 
A.D. It shortly afterwards passed 
back into the hands of the Hindus, 
but was reconquered by Altamsh 
pn 1235 A.D. It was visited by 
•’Akbar in 1601, and the mother 
of Jahangir planted a garden 
there, a fine gateway of which still 
exists. The Muhammadan build- 
ings are numerous and of no little 
interest. 




DELHI AND ENVIRONS 



.onilfjii Joliii vVl Sli'i' 







249 


ROUTE I4.-DELHI 

INDEX 


P \()K 


li.trwa'a 


. . j 70 

J-I-s^uarpui 



H.dh-ki-virai 


-4 and nj 

Catteries ot ic . 


-n and - 0 

( cmeLcne.s— 

NichoUoii 


-0- 

‘-H<1 Maga/ute . 


- 5 u 

kajpiir 


200 

Chanani Chaitk . 


26 c 

CPit'-r Elephants 


26. 

Coronation Darnar, 

1 sJ 

260 

Oariba 


‘65 

Kirovabad 


. . -’71 

Flagstaff! owei . 


_’6q 

Fort and Palace . 


• - 5 *-' 

* ’ardens — 



KuUsia 


. . 0. 

Xicholson 


.' 6 ? 

(Queen’s 


. . -.05 

Rn-«hanara 


. 

1 rates — 

Ajmer 



I>elhi 


, ‘70 

, of Kni t 


'5 , 

Kabul 


‘f .6 

Kashmir 


-ri.i •- ; 

l.ahore 


/'-O 

, ofhort 


0 1 

M.jri 



Turkman . 


• ‘ ' 1 

Han/ Khas 



flau^ Sharnsi 


£1 

Hindu Rao's Hoime 


n.j 

Idgah . 


'05 

Imperial Assr-mblagr 


. 60 

Indrapat 


•"’1 

Jahanpanah 


75 

Jain Temple 


'O5 

Kila Rai Pithora . 



Kutb Min.lr 


-7 s 

• - 7 * 

Lai I>arwa/a 


Lai Kot 


• • -75 

Lat. Ridge . 


. . 270 

). tiro/abad 


. . 270 

Magazine, Old 


. 250 

Mahrauli 


. . 'ii 

Memorials — 



Maga 7 irie . 


• ’50 

Mutiny 


. '70 

Kashtnir ( late . 


250 

Telegraph 


-59 

-Missions- - 


Baptist 


2fM 

Cambridge 


265 

M osi|ues- 

Kegampur 


* • -75 

('hauburji 


. 2OQ 

Fatehpuri. 


2'^0 

Delhi * (lat. 

to 

00 

0 

39'> long. 

77 16 , population 

232,837 in 

1911). the old 

iVlughal capital. 


1 Iru/abad Kotila 


Jaiiii .... 

-bJ 

Ja!n..li ... 

. 2£lJ 

Kaiaii ..... 

.'04 

Khirki ..... 


Kuwwat ul Islam, Kuto 

. 27O 

.Moti Masjid, Fo’t . 

263 

. .Mahrauli 

. _>£i 

Nizam-ud-din . 

-73 

sher Shah, Parana Kila . 


Sonehri, Fort . 

. 76 j 

,, Chandni Chauk 

■65 

Zinat-ul-iMasajid 

261 

Obsers atories- 

Jai .Singh 

-75 

Ridge .... 

2O0 

Palace and Foi t . 

. -250 

l^urana Kila 

271 

Ridge . .... 

2OQ 

Sabzi Mantli 

270 

'St James’ Churrli 

250 

Shahrn.ar ..... 

Z 5 g 

Shrines - 

(diiragii i.)e!hi 

- 3 l 

Kutb-ud-din 


Nizani-ud'din 

7 1 

.Sliah Alani 


Sir! .... 

-75 

tallies 

Queeii-Knipics-. 

66 

ihigadiei-CieneTul Xicholsoii . 

266 

rombs, (.iraves. anti Mausolea- 

^dhani Khan . 

-'£0 

.Vltam-ih, Emperor . 

'70 

Aniir Khusru . 

274 

Azam Khan 

-~74 

Bah.idur 'shah, Einperoi . 

jSi 

Bahlol Lodi 

. 7S1 

P>alban ..... 

■>£< j 

Barnard, Major-! lencral Sii H. 

>Dg 

Chausath Rliambe • 

74 

Firoz Shah 

-75 

Ghazi-ud-din 

. 26 s 

Greathed, Mr . 

. 263 

Huniayun, Emperor 

. 272 

I.sa Khan . . . . 

• -73 

Jahanara Begam 

. -^74 

Kadam Sharif . 

. 266 

Khanan Khan . 

-^73 

Muhammad Shall . 

274 

Roshanara Begam . 

270 

.Safdar Jang 

’74 

Saiyad King‘d . 

-71 

Sikandar Lodi . 

. 274 

Skinner. Col. . 

. <’59 

Tugblak Shah .... 

. 28 ' 

/abita Khan 

-' 3 1 


and by the Imperial Proclamation 
on the 1 2th December 1911, on 
the occasion of the Darbar. once 



2^0 


India 


ROU'lE 14. 

more re-established as capital by 
H.M. King George V , is m point of 
numbers the seventh city in India . 

A new temporary city on the X. 
of the present city has been bin It 
for the accommodation of the 
Government of India and its secre- 
tariat staff, which will be occupied 
until such time as the buildings of 
the new capital, projected to the 
S and W. of the old cit\^ are ready 
lor occupation. Considerablcipro- 
gress had been made by the end o t 
1916 with the work of building the 
new capital. The levelling^'ot the 
site has been completed. Manyofc 
the principal roads in the lay-out 
have been metalled for aTportion of 
their projected width and planted 
with trees. The foundations and 
basements of the Secretariat build- 
ings and of Government House have 
been partial!}" completed. Sonic 
ol the residential accommodation 
for officers, clerks, and menials has 
been built. Some work has also 
been done in connection with 
the building of the new Canton- 
ment, which lies 2 m. to the W, and 
S.W. of the new capital. Some oi 
the recently erected barracks are 
occupied by troops. In pursuance 
of this policy the Delhi Chief Com- 
missiohership has been constituted 
{without a Legislative Council) 
since the ist October 1912 imme- 1 
diately under the management and \ 
authority of the Governor- ( General 
The area of the Delhi District and 
province is 366,565 acres. It has a 
population, (including Delhi town), 
of 416,656 persons. It include^ 
within its boundaries the whole of 
the Delhi iahstl of the old Delhi 
District of the Panjab, such parts 
of the Ballabgarh tahsil of the 
same unit as are included in the 
poHce station of Hahrauli, and 65 
villages foinicrly belonging to the 
Meerut District of the United Pro- 
vinces. The adjoining Gurgaon 
and Rohtak Districts have been en- 
larged so as to include the portions 
of the old Delhi District not ab- 
sorbed in the Delhi Chief Commis- 
sionership The headquarters of 


DELHI 

the Commissioner's Division have 
been transferred from Delhi to 
A.mbala . 

Delhi IS famous for its jewellers, 
sih'ersmith'^, and embroiderers, 
and many artistic products of 
other parts of India will be found 
in its shops, the principal workers 
being situated in the centre and 
E. end of the Chandni Chauk. 

The railway station, now one of 
the largest in India, lies on the N. 
side of the city ; the Queen's 
Gardens separate it from the 
Chandm Chauk, which forms a 
street running E. and W. from the 
Fort and Palace, on the Jumna, to 
the Fatehpuri Mosque, near the 
Lahore Gate. Facing the S.W. 

I angle of the EMrt is the great Jami 
i ]\lasjid. In the X. wall ol the city 
are the Kashmir and Mori Gates ; 

I at the X.W. corner the Kabul 
; Gate ; below it the Lahore Gate ; 
i at the S.W. corner the Ajmer, and 
I at the S. the Delhi Gate. Of these 
gates, only the Kashmir, Ajmer, 
and Delhi Gates now survive in 
their original forms. Outside the 
X. wall lies the civil station, 
bounded on the E. by the river 
and on the W. by the Ridge, 
beyond which the Cantonment lay 
in 1857 S. of the modern city, 
which should properly be known 
by the name of Delhi-Shahjahana- 
bad, the ruins of old cities and 
fortresses stretch for 12 m. to the 
S. — first Firozabad, then Indra- 
pat, with the tomb of the Em- 
peror Humayun and the Shrine of 
Xizam-ud-din Aulia beyond it ; 
then, at a considerable interval 
farther to the S.W , the ruins of 
the defences of Sin, Jahanpanah, 
and the Fort of Rai Pithora, in the 
citadel o± which are situated the 
Kutb Alosque and Minar, ii m. 
from Delhi, and, finally, 5 m. E. of 
the Kut]>, the remains of Tugh- 
lakabad and the fortress round it. 

The sights of Delhi cannot be 
comfortably seen in less than four 
or five days. For those who can 
spare onlv three days to them, the 



ROUTE 14. DELHI FISTORV 25I 


iollowmg ifiiftrary may be of 

Vif Morning . — Fort and Palarp, 
junt ^Jasjul, Kalan Masjid. Jain 
T'.inple, and Chandni Chauk. 

Aflenioon.--lnvoz 3 h 3 id and In- 
'.irapat. 

2nd Morning , — Visit sights out- 
■-ide the city in connection \^dth 
tile Mutiny and Siege, driving out 
I'v the Kashmir Gate and return- 
■nt; by the IMon Gate. 

Afternoon . — Drive b>' the 
inausoleum of Ghazi-ud-din to 
Jai Singh’s Observatory and Saf- 
dar Jang’s Tomb, and round by 
the tomb of Nizam- ud'din Aulia 
to that of Humayun, and so back 
past Indrapat. 

yd Day . — Starting early, drive 
to Kutb {perhaps stopping en 
to see the tank of Hauz 
Ivhas) After an early luncheon, 
proceed to Tnghlakabad, and back 
hv the Muttra Road to Delhi. 

This itinerary can of course be 
‘ onsiderably shortened by the use 
ui a motor-car. Cars can now be 
'obtained on hire at a number of 
,'-’,arages in Delhi. 


Historyd — 'Though the country 
louiid Delhi was connected with 
the early Iustor\' of India, as 
leeoided in tlie M ahahharaia 
dntrod. p. Ixxi), but little is 
known of the place prior to the 
Muhammadan conquest in 1x93 
^ ft According to tradition, a 
‘ Jty called Indraprastha was 
tounded by a king called Y ud- 
hishthira, and the fort of Indrapat. 
'Mso called Purana Kila, or “ Old 
stands, perhaps, on the 
Mteof this, though the recent exten- 
■’ive excavations have revealed no 
remains which can be referred 
^‘cfinitely to pre-Muhammadan 
times. The extensive ruins lying 
ot modern Delhi, and covering 

I h.i^e intcrebtedmihe history and archa:- 
yf Delhi 'A ill find the fullest details 
Past anj Present, by Mr H. C. 

C.S.I . formerly Commissinner 
Utr Delhi Division. John Murra\ 


an area of about 45 sq. m., are the 
remains of many forts or cities, 
built by different kings The 
oldest are the Hindu forts of 
Talkot, built by Anang Pal Toniar 
in 1052 A.D , and of Rai Pithora, 
Chauhan, the Prithvi Raja, built 
by the Kimg of that name about 
1180 A.D. These two forts and 
the iron pillar at the Kutb are 
the only remains of the Hindu 
period. The earliest Muham- 
madan forts or cities were Si n, 
built by ’Ala-ud-din in 1304 ad. , 
Tughlakabad, built by Tughlak 
Shah in 1321 a.d. ; and Jahan- 
panah, enclosed by Muhammad 
L'ughlak, about 1325 a.d. Sub- 
sequently Firozabad was con- 
structed by the Emperor Firoz 
Shah Tughlak, and the Purana 
Kila was foundtd and built by 
Humayun and Slier Shah. Tliis 
uew Delhi wms not favoured by 
the Emperors Akbar and Jahan- 
gir, and the modern town dates 
from the commencement of the 
tort by Shah Jahan in 1638, 
whence it was called Shahjahana- 
bad. Delhi has been frequently 
attacked and often captured 
since it was conquered by the 
Muhammadans of CJhor and be- 
came the temporary capital uX 
the ^luhammadan empire of 
India. It was sacked by Timur, 
the Mughal, in 1398 ; by Nadir 
Shah, the Persian, in* 1739 ; and 
. by Ahmad Shah Duram, the 
! Afghan, in 1756. On the loth 
I March 1739 the small Persian 
garrison which Nadir Shah had 
introduced into the cit}' when he 
occupied it was almost entirely’ 
put to the sw'Ord by the people 
On the ixth he gave his troops, 
who had been summoned from the 
encampment outside the city, 
orders for a general massacre. 
From sunrise till 12 o'clock Delhi 
presented a scene of appalling 
carnage, the horrors of w^hich weie 
increased by the flames ignited in 
almost every quarter of the 
capital The Mughal Emperor 
Muhammad Shah then interceded 



252 


ROUTE 14, 


DELHI 


India 


for the people, and Nadir Shah 
icphed, “ The Emperor of India 
must never ask in vain,” and com- 
manded the massacre should 
cease. A vast multitude ot per- 
sons had, however, perished, and 
Nadir Shah carried with him from 
Delhi treasures estimated at from 
30 to 70 millions sterling, the 
famous Peacock 'throne, and the 
Koh-i-nur diamond. 

1759 the Mahratta Chief, 
Alalidaji Scindia, captured Delhi, 
and the Mahrattas held it till 
September 1803, when General 
Lake defeated Louis Bourqiun, 
commanding Scindia’s army, and 
gained possession of Delhi and ol 
the family and person of the 
Emperor Shah 'Alam. In October 
1S04 Delhi was besieged by the 
Mahratta Jaswant Rao Holkar, 
blit was successfully defended 
by the British under Generals 
Burn and Ochterlony. From that 
time to 1857 the old capital of 
India remained in the possession 
of the British, although the de- 
scendants of the JNIughal were 
allowed some show of royalty 
and the name of King. The last 
King, ^Bahadur Shah, succeeded in 
1837, and was about eighty years 
old when the Mutiny broke out. 
With his death at Rangoon, in 
1862, the last vestige ol the 
Mughal dynasty disappeared.^ 
Till 1857 Delhi and the surround- 
ing districts as far as Gurgaon, 
Hissar, and Karnal, were under 
the administration of the N W.P., 
but in 1858 they were placed under 
the Pan jab Government. 

The buildings in and round 
Delhi may be conveniently classi- 
fied as follows, according to their 
dates and styles. The so-called 
early Pathan style is really Turki, 
but the old nomenclature is gen- 
erally followed : — 

I list of Sovereio:ns who at Delhi 

from iiq3 will be found on p lx% Intrud. 


( 1 ) 

Early Pathan, 1193-1320. 

The Kutb Mosque and Miiiar — 
the tomb of Altamsh ; the Alai 
I Darwaza {p. 279) and the Khizri 
! or Jamat Khana Mosque at Nizam- 
ud-din (p. 273). 

At first, adoption and adapta- 
' tion of Hindu materials and style ; 
; then developments ol elaborate 
i and beautiful decoration from 
' Hindu prototypes. 

( 2 ) 

Middle Pathan, 1320-1414. 

Earlier style — Tughlakabad and 
j tomb of Tughlak Shah (pp 
2Si^2). 

fMier and severer style - — Ivalan 
Masjid of Delhi (p. 204) ; mosque 
of Kotila Firoz Shah (p. 270) . 
Kadam Sharif (p. 266) ; ruined 
buildings on the Ridge (jip. 26S- 
o) , Hauz Khas tomb (p. 275) ; 
mosques at Nizam - ud - din, 
Begampur, and Khirki (pp. 273, 
275, and 281). 

First buildings of finely-cut 
I stone, or of red sandstone with 
I sloping walls ; then buildings rvith 
sloping walls oi stone and mortar 
plastered all over, and borne by 
rough columns of simple rect- 
angular stones ; arches usually 
fiat Hindu arches ; mosques gen- 
erally built on high raised plat- 
forms. 

( 3 ) 

Later Pathan Style, 1414-1556, 

Tombs of Saiyad and Lodi Kings 
(p 274), purana Kila and Mosque 
(p. 271} : Jamali Mosque (p. 280) ; 
tomb and mosque of Isa Khan 
ip- 273). 

Buildings usually with fine 
tiomes, and decorated with col- 
oured marbles and tiles, and in 
^)Ome cases inside with fine plaster 
ornamentation ; arches still often 
of the Plindu type, 



ROUTE 1^ 


THE 

( 4 ) 

Muffiial. 1556 - 1660 . 

htmiev. — Tomb of Humayun 
tp. 2/2) ; tomb of Azam Khan 
'P 274) ; Fort and Palace of 
(p. 259) ; Jami Ma.sjid, 
belhi (p.263); Fatehpuri Masjidj 
J>clhi (p. 266). 

Laicr decadent style. — -Zinabul- 
Masdjid Mosque (p. 263) ; Moti 
-Masjid at Mahrauli (p. 281) ; 
vN:)nehri iMasjids in Ciiandni 
Uiank {p. 256 ), and ot Javed 
Khan (p. 2O3) ; mosque, tomb, 
and college ot Ghazi-ud-din 
Khan (p. 20 4) ; tomb of Gaidar 
Jang (p. 274). 

hiUlldings at iirst of red sand- 
and white marble, later ol 
n-coloured sandstone ; white 
marble used more and more. Fine 
dome>, true arches, and lotty 
nunarets are special character- 
’stiCb of the style. 

The Mutiny. 1857 . i 

Vs the principal events ot the j 
'41 eat mutiny of the Bengal army 1 
^^55 7 centred originally round [ 
i K'iiii, it IS desirable to give a ' 
■somewhat detailed account ot i 
diem in this connection. ! 

On the loth of May 1S37 there i 
^\as ill the large Cantonment of ' 
Meerut, 42 m. N.W. of Delhi, a 
biTtish force consisting of a bat- 1 
Uhon of the doth Rilies, a regi- I 
^'leut of Carabineers, and a large i 
i‘>rce of Artillery, though only two ] 

Id- batteries were fully equipped, i 
Indian troops were one rcgi- ; 
ii'eiit of Cavalry (the 3rd) and two ' 

’ ' oUiients of Infantry (the 1 1 th and ' 
all about 2500 strong. 

On the evening of that date, 

' anday. the troopers, and after 
the two regiments, broke into 
^‘^utiny, and released eighty-five 
j^mn of the 3rd Cavalry, who had 
j>een imprisoned the previous day. 1 
mutineers were not attacked i 
6y the British troops, and after a i 
period of murder and robbery 1 


MUTINY, 1S57 -^53 

they started unpursuecl for Delhi, 
where there were three native 
regiments and a battery of Xative 
Artillery, but no British troopo. 
On reaching that place early the 
next morning, the troopers who 
arrived first called upon the King 
from below the palace walls to 
loin them, and then made their 
wav into the city and attacked the 
civil ofticers, who had received 
news oi the outbreak at Meerut, 
and were attempting to prevent 
the mutineers from entering 
These orlicers, the Commissioner 
(Mr Simon Fraser), the Collector 
(Mr Hutchinson), and Captain 
I Douglas, Commandant of the 
Palace, were conipeiled to tail 
back into the Fort, and were there 
shortly afterwards murdered by 
the mob When the 54th Regi- 
ment marched down from the Can- 
I tonment to the Ka.shmir Quarter 
Guard at the X.E. corner of the 
city most of the olticers were shot 
down by the troopers, and the 
men of the regiment refused to 
act — ^-an example followed by the 
74th Regiment, which was sent 
down later. Meanwhile the ofheer 
in charge of the Arsenal, Lieuten- 
ant Willoughby, who had been 
forewarned by the civil magis- 
trates, made a desperate attempt 
with his subordinates to hold that 
place against the mutineers until 
aid should arrive from Meerut, 
and when defence was no longer 
possible, blew up the magazine, 
and managed to escape to the 
Kashmir Gate with some others. 
Alter the explosion the troops 
there broke out into open mutin\ , 
and shot most of the remaining 
officer b, a few escaping over the 
face of the Kashmir Bastion, 
The Europeans in the Cantonment , 
who had collected at the Flagstaff 
Tower, were then compelled to 
take flight to Karnal. Before 
mghtfall every vestige of British 
power had disappeared from Delhi. 

Measures were at once taken by 
General Anson, the Commander- 
in-Chief of the army, who was at 



ROUTE 14. DELHI 


India 


251 


Simla, lo collect troops for the 
recapture of Delhi, and by Sir 
John Lawrence and the oliicerrs of 
the Pan jab to anticipate the mis- 
chief of further mutiny. With 
what success the latter acted will 
be found under various heads in 
Routes 15 and 16. The troops 
collected were' unable to advance 
for some time, owing to the usual 
state of unpreparedness prevaihng 
at that period, and reached Ahpur, 
10 m. from Delhi, under the com- 
mand of Major-General Sir H. 
Barnard (General Anson having 
died of cholera at Kama! on 27th 
May) only on 5th June. There 
the Ambala force was joined by 
that from Meerut under Brigadier- 
General Archdale Wilson, who had 
defeated the rebels twice near 
Ghaziabad (p. 293). 

On the following day the com- 
bined forces marched on Delhi, and 
found the rebels well posted and 
supported by thirty guns 6 m. N. 
of Delhi, at the village of Badh-ki- 
sarai. Attacking the mutineers. 
General Barnard gained a com- 
plete victory. The most impor- 
tant result of this success was to 
give the British possession of 
“ the Ridge/’ from wliich ail sub- 
sequent operations against Delhi 
were made. 

The tents of the British were 
pitched a little to the rear of their 
old houses, behind the left and 
centre of the Ridge, obliquely to 
the front of attack, and effectually 
concealed from the besieged. The 
position on the extreme right in- 
vited attack. It was surmounted 
by an extensive building known as 
Hindu Rao’s House. A strong 
body of troops was posted here 
and in an old observatory near it. 
About 800 vds. to the N. of Hindu 
Rao’s House, and on the Ridge, 
was an old mosque, and again 800 
yds. to the N. was the Flag-Staff 
Lower, a double-storeyed circular 
building — a good post for observa- 
tion, and strong enough to afford 
shelter to troops. At these four 
points General Barnard estab- 


lished pickets supported by guns 
' Below' Hindu Rao's House, on 
the right flank, w'as the suburb 
of Sabzi-mandi, which, with its 
houses and walled gardens. 

I afforded shelter to the enemy, 
and was, in fact, the key of the 
English position. Beyond Sabzi- 
! mandi, towards the Kabul Gate, 
i were the suburbs of Kishanganj, 
Trevelyanganj , Paharipur, and 
; Teliwara — all strong positions. 

! which covered the enemy when 
■ they advanced to the attack, but 
; were too near the city walls for us 
to occupy. Opposite the mosque 
picket, to the E., w^as Metcalfe 
House, on the banks of the Jumna, 
with substantial outbuildings, and 
, a mound in the rear, which seemed 
; to recommend it for occupation 
! Between it and the city w'as an old 
I summer palace of the Emperor, 
j the Kudsia Garden, with lofty 
I ga teways and spacious courtyards, 
I and in a line between the latter 
I and Hindu Rao’s House was 
j Ludlow Castle, the house of the 
' late Commissioner Simon Fraser.”^ 

! To take this great walled city 
; General Barnard had a force ol 
about 3000 British, one Gurkha 
battalion, the Corps of Guides, the 
remnant of certain native regi- 
ments, and twenty-two guns. At 
1 first it was intended to assault the 
I city by night, but, as failure would 
I have been disastrous, it was con- 
sidered best to delay till the ex- 
pected reinforcements had arrived. 
Between the 12th and i8th June 
the rebels attacked the British 
position four times in front and 
rear. Again on the 23rd, the 
anniversary of Plassey, they at- 
^ tacked fiercely, haring been rein- 
forced by the mutineers from 
i Nasira bad ; fortuiw tely the British 
; by that lime had received an 
I additional 850 men. 

I 

^ 1 he best account of the Siege of Delhi 
lb Captain Normans Narrative, republished 
m Delhi, Past and Present. Those who 
desire a concise account, without military 
technicalities, cannot do better than refer to 
Holmes’ Indian Mutiny. 



255 


Route 14. siege of delhi, 1^57 


On the 24th General Chamber- 
Idin arrived, and with him the 
<Stli and 61st Europeans, the ist 
Panjab Infantry, a squadron of 
Pau3ab Cavalry, and four guns, 
raising the British strength to 
h6oo. The rebels also received an 
accession of about 4500 from 
I Bareilly. 

On the 5th July General Bar- 
nard also died ot cholera, and was 
succeeded by General Reed. 

On the 9th and 14th of July 
tierce engageiiients were fought 
‘>a the right of the British position, 
near Hindu Rao's house, in and 
•ibout the Sabzi-mandi, in which 
^5 officers and 400 men of our 
tnrce were killed and wounded. 

On the 17th of July General 
heed resigned the command to 
hrigadier-General Archdale Wil- 
"On. At this time the besieging 
torce was in great difficulties : 
Uvo Generals had died, a third had 
been compelled by illness to resign, 
the Adjutant-General and Quar- 
termaster-General lay wounded in 
their tents, and the rebels had 
attacked so often, and with such 
obstinacy, that it had come to be 
acknowledged that the British 
Were the besieged and not the 
besiegers. On the i8th of July 
the rebels made another sortie, 
which was repulsed by Colonel 
Jones of the both Rides. The 
Engineer officers now cleared away 
the walls and houses which had 
afforded cover to the enemy, and 
connected the advanced poste with 
the main pickets on the Ridge. 
Mter this there were no more 
conflicts in the Sabzi-mandi. On 
the 23rd of July the enemy 
streamed out of the Kashmir Gate, 
endeavoured to establish 
^einselves at Ludlow Castle, 
Riey were driven back, but the ' 
hnghsh were drawn too near the t 
t-ity walls, and suffered severe loss. ! 

Reinforcements were now on i 
their way from the Panjab, com- I 
5 ^anded by one of the best soldiers 
^at India had ever produced — 
Rugadier - General Nicholson. 


On the 7th ol August Nichois<ui 
stood on tile Ridge at Delhi He 
had come on in advance ol his 
column of 2500 men, which arrived 
on the 14th 1 On the 25th he 
marched out to the S.W. towards 
Xajafgarh with a strong force to 
attack the mutineers, who had 
moved to intercept the siege train 
coming from Ferozepore. The 
march was a difficult one. through 
deep mud. He found the muti- 
neers in three bodies, occupying 
two villages and a garden in front, 
all protected by guns. Crossing a 
ford where the water was breast - 
1 high, Nicholson, at the In^ad ot the 
oist Regiment and the ist Bengal 
European Fusiliers, stormed the 
garden and captured the guns ; 
but the sepoys fought well and 
bold their lives dearly. Thos( 
who survived made for the bridg'^ 
crossing the Xajafgarh Canal, 
and fled to Delhi ; m all 800 
were killed and thirteen gun,-> 
were captured. General Nicholson 
blew up the Najafgarh Bridge, and 
returned to camp next day. 

On the morning of the 4tii ol 
September the siege guns, drawn 
by elephants, with an immense 
number of ammunition wagons, 
reached the camp. On the 6tli 
the rest ot the Rifles from iSIeerut 
marched in On the 8th the 
Jammu Contingent arrived, with 
Colonel R, Lawrence at their head 
Many, and amongst them fore- 
most of all Nicholson, chafed at 
the delay which occurred in 
.storming 1 >elhi. The responsi- 
bility ol the attack rested with 
General Archdale Mhlson. who had 
thus stated the magnitude of the 
enterprise in a letter to Colonel 
Baird Smith, commanding the 
Engineers, on the 20th of August : 

‘ Delhi is 7 m, in circumference, 
fllled with an immense fanatical 
population, garrisoned by fulh 
40,000 soldiers, armed and discip- 

1 Between 15th and 22nd August Lieu- 
tenant Hod son made his successful cavalry 
raid to Rohtak, and cut up and scattered the 
rebels there. 



ROUTE 14. DELHI 


India 




iined bv ourbelveb, with 114 heavy 
pieces of artillery mounted on the 
walls, with the largest magazine 
of shot, shell, and ammunition in 
the Upper Provinces, besides some 
60 pieces of field artillery, ail of 
our own manufacture, and manned 
bv artillerymen drilled and taught 
by ourselves, the Fort itself, 
having been strengthened by per- 
fect flanking defences, erected by 
our own engineers, and a glacis 
which prevents our guns lir caching 
the walls lower than 8 ft. from the 
top/ These circumstances led 
General Wilson to write that the 
chances of success were, in his 
opinion, any tiling but favourable, 
but that he would yield to the 
judgment of the Chief Engineer. 
Many condemned his apparent 
reluctance to order the assault, 
but they have since acknowledged 
that they did him less than j ustice, 
for the principles of warfare were 
upon his side. 

Investment by the British, 
with their limited means, being 
impossible, it was necessary to 
concentrate all their breaching 
power on a portion of the walls. 
This consisted of the Mori, Kash- 
mir, and Water Bastions, witli 
their connecting curtains. Tins 
Iront was chosen because the fire 
of the Mori Bastion alone com- 
manded the approach to it, and 
because there was excellent cover 
to within a short distance of the 
walls. On the evening of the 
6th of September a hght battery,^ 
consisting of six 9 -pounders and 
two 24-pouiiders, under the com- 
mand of Captain Remmington, 
was constructed on the plateau 
of the Ridge to protect the opera- 
tions going on below. On the 
night of the 7th the first heavy 
battery - was constructed at 700 

J Ihis known ah the Samm> Hou-'C 
Uatterj. and lies 400 yds E. of the ^Juti^^ 
^Memorial. 

- The sites of this battery. 400 yd>. to the 
E. of the f^oot of the slope of the Ridi^e belou 
the Mutinv Memorial, will be found in«;ide 
the Police Lines, and behind a house to the 
K. of these. 


yds. from the vail. It consisted 
i of two parts connected b}' a trench. 
The right portion held five heav> 
guns and a howitzer, the function 
of which was to demolish the Mon 
^ Bastion. The left held four guns 
to keep down the fire of the Kash- 
; mir Bastion. While darkness 
[.lasted the enemy only fired twice, 

I but when the morning revealed 
t the British plans, the rebels poured 
! in a shower of shot and shell ; but 
i the British persevered in their 
work, and before sunset the rebel 
battery was silenced. The British 
had lost 70 men in the trenches. 
The left section of their battery 
maintained a fire on the Kashmir 
Bastion during the greater part 
of three days, but at noon on the 
loth it took fire, and the guns 
i were of necessity withdrawn. By 
that time No. 2 Battery had been 
; finished^ — the left section immedi- 
ately in the front of Ludlow Castle, 

I and the right section 90 yds. to 
! the S. of it. Both were within 
I 600 yds. of the city ; the right 
! section had seven howitzers and 
j two 1 8-pounders, and the left 
I section nine 24-pounders. 

; This battery did not open fire 
I till No. 3 Battery was completed, 
j It was built in the Kudsia Garden, 
i behind part of the Custom House, 

I at 180 yds. from the Water Bas- 
I tion, on which it was to play. 

! The enemy poured in such an 
I incessant fire of musketry, with 
! occasional shells, that it was im- 
possible to work in the day and 
I difficult at night. Meantime a 
powerful mortar battery was al.so 
constructed m the Kudsia Garden, 
At 8 A.M. on the iith of Septem- 
i ber the nine 24-pounders in the 
left section of No, 2 Batterv 
, opened with terrific effect on the 
' Kashmir Bastion. The enemy 
replied, and severely wounded the 
commandant of the heavy guns, 
but their fire was soon silenced by 
I No. 2 Battery, aided by the mor- 
I tars in the Kudsia Bagh. Then 
, the walls of Delhi began to fall, 

' and whole yards of parapet came 



ROUTE I ASSAULT OF 

^^own At II A.M. on the 12th 
Vo 3 Batter}^ unmasked and 
pounded the Water Bastion into 
nuns. All through the 12th and 
13th the roar of fifty heavy guns 
was heard day and rdght, withoui 
intermission. On the 13th Alex- 
ander Taylor, of whom Nicholson 
^aid, ‘If I survive to-morrow 1 
will let all the world knovv^ that 
-Vieck Taylor took Delhi,' an- 
nounced that the breaches were 
practicable. 

The arrangements for storm- 
ing Delhi were forthwith made. 
The ist column, under Nicholson, 
consisted of 300 men of the 75th 
1 uoi, 250 of the ist Fusiliers, and 
f5o of the 2nd Panjab Infantry. 

It was to storm the breach in the 
i-Liitain near the Kashmir Bastion. 
The 2nd column, under Brigadier 
Jones, C.B., was to storm the 1 
breach at the Water Bastion, and j 
it consisted of 250 men of the 8th 1 
Toot, 250 of the 2nd Fusiliers, 1 
and 350 of the 4th Sikhs. The i 
'ird column, under Colonel Camp- | 
bell, ot the 52nd, was to assault j 
the Kashmir Gate, and consisted ! 
of 200 men of the 52nd Foot, 250 
ot the Kumaon Battalion, and 500 
oi the ist Panjab Infantry. The 
4th column, under Major Charles 
Reid, who so long and gallantly i 
held the post at Hindu RaoV ; 
house, was to enter the city by the ; 
Lahore Gate. It consisted of 860 i 
inen of the Sirmur Battalion, the j 
Guides, and other corps The 
5th column, the Resers^^e, was 
commanded by Brigadier Long- ^ 
Held, and consisted of 1700 men. 
Resides these five columns, Colonel i 
Rope Grant, with 600 sabres of ■ 
the 9th Lancers and Sikh Horse, , 
''hose duty it was to prevent | 
^allies from the Lahore and Kabul 
Gates were for long under heav\ 
lire. 

Gn the night of the 13 th 
Lieutenants Medley and Lang ex- 
plored the Kashmir breach, and 
Lieutenants Greathed and Home 
that of the Water Bastion. The , 
morning of the 14th was fine and 


DELHI, I4TH SEPTEMBER 257 

j still. Nicholson laid his arm on 
Brigadier Jones’s shoulder, and 
asked him if he was ready. He 
then rejoined his own column, 
gave the order to storm, and 
immediately the heavy guns, 
which were roaring at their loud- 
est, became silent. The Rifies 
sounded the advance, and the ist 
and 2nd columns ascended the 
glacis. The fire of the enemy 
was terrible, and the Engineers 
Greathed and Ovenden were the 
first to fall. The stormers, carry- 
ing the ladders, were led by Cap- 
tain Baines and Lieutenant Metje. 
When Baines reached the Water 
Bastion he had only twenty-five 
men left out of seventy - five. 
Both he and Metje were carried 
disabled to the rear. The ist 
column was di\fided into two sec- 
tions. Nicholson himself led one, 
cind Colonel Herbert of the 75 th 
the other. Nicholson was the 
first to mount the wall. In the 
other section Lieutenant Fitz- 
gerald, who was the first to ascend, 
was shot dead. Another took his 
place, and soon both sections of 
the ist column had carried the 
breach near the Kashmir Bastion, 
and taken up their position at the 
Main Guard. The 2rd column 
entered by the breach at the Water 
Bastion, and joined the ist column 
at the Quarter Guard. These 
columns then proceeded along 
the inner side of the city wall to 
the Mori or Shah Bastion at the 
N W. angle, where the rebel 
gunners fought gallantly and 
were bayoneted at their guns. 
The columns then advanced and 
took the Kabul Gate, on which a 
soldier of the Oist planted a flag. 
The enemy kept up a galhng fire 
on this from the Lahore Gate. 
Nicholson collected a number of 
men to storm it. As he advanced 
he found himself in a long narrow 
lane lined with marksmen on both 
sides. Some of the enemy's guns 
were brought to bear on the 
attacking column, and the men 
fell fast. Major Jacob, of the 



25S ROUTE 14. 

1st Fusiliers, received his death- 
wound, Captain Greville and 
Lieutenant Speke were struck 
down. The column wavered ; 
Nicholson rushed forward, his 
lofty stature rendered him con- 
spicuous, and in a moment he was 
shot through tiie body, and in 
spite of his remonstrances was 
carried to the rear to die, and the 
columns fell back to the Kabul 
Gate. He died of his wound ten 
days later. 

The 3rd column had been 
appointed to enter the city 
through the Kashmir Gate, which 
was to be blown open by Lieu- 
tenants Home and Salkeld, Set- , 
geants Carmichael, Burgess, and | 
Smith. Home, with Bugler Haw- J 
thorne, was first down into the j 
ditch. He planted his bag, but 
as Carmichael advanced with iiis, ! 
he was mortally wounded. Smith ! 
then advanced, and placed his | 
dying comrade's bag as well as his j 
own and prepared the fuses for 
ignition. Salkeld was ready with 
a slow match, but as he was 
lighting it he received two bullets, 
and, falling, he called on Smith to 
take the match, which was taken 
by Burgess, and Smith was in the 
act of giving him a box of lucifers 
when Burgess ' also fell with a 
bullet through his body. Smith 
was now alone, but he had struck a 
light, and was appl>ing it when a 
portfire went off in his face. There 
was a thick smoke and dust, then 
a roar and a crash, as Smith 
scrambled into the ditch. There 
he placed his hand on Home, who 
said he was unhurt, and having 
joined the column, went forward, j 
The gate had been shattered, but j 
not so destroyed as had been j 
anticipated ; but the 3rd column j 
passed through it. Smith then : 
obtained stretchers, and had Bur- 
gess and Salkeld carried to the 
camp ; but both of them died — 
Burgess on the way, and Salkeld 
a few days afterwards." 

The sVd column, which was 
immediately joined by the reserve, ' 


DELHI ' India 

j pushed across the Queen's Garden 
and Chandni Chauk to the Kot- 
1 wali, under the guidance of Sir 
T. T. Metcalfe, and then down the 
Dariba to the Jami Masjid. This 
however, was strongly defended 
and held, and as the column w'as 
^ without guns or means of blowing 
, in the gates, it was compelled to 
i fall back wdien the advance on the 
i Lahore Gate failed. In spite of 
I the losses of the assault (66 officers 
I and 1100 men), the British force 
i maintained itself in the N.W. 
corner of the city, as far S. as the 
College, and, m spite of regrettable 
excesses on the part of the troops, 
gradually captured the whole city. 
On the 1 6th the Magazine was 
taken, and posts were established 
from it to the Kabul Gate during 
the 17 th and i8th, the troops 
working from house to house under 
cover. On the 19th the Bum 
Bastion, between the Kabul and 
Lahore Gates, was seized, and on 
the next morning the latter gate 
was captured, and cavalry, entering 
by the Delhi Gate on the S , occu- 
pied the Jami Masjid ; and on the 
20th the Fort and Palace were 
taken, very little opposition being 
offered by the few rebels left in it. 
On the 2ist the King was captured 
by Lieutenant Hodson at Huma- 
yun’s tomb, and on the following 
day the same officer received the 
surrender of the King's sons at the 
same place, and shot them in front 
of the Delhi Gate. On 24th Sep- 
tember a column under Colonel 
Greathed marched S. from Delhi, 
and on loth October relieved Agra 
(p. 232) ; on the day that it 
left Brigadier- General Nicholson 
was buned m the Kashmir Gate 
Cemetery. 

The number of troops engaged 
on the Siege of Delhi from first to 
last was 9866, of which no less 
than 3837 were killed or died of 
wounds or were wounded. These 
included 46 European officers 
killed and 140 wounded. No 
more marked display of endurance 
and steady courage than that 



250 


ROUTE 14. KASHMIR 

•>hn\vn by the Delhi Field Force 
during the summer of 1857 can 
be found in the whole splendid 
record of the British and Indian 
armies. 


For the convenience of sight- 
seeing, Delhi and the adjoining 
country may be divided as follows : 

(1) The city, including the old 
Magazine, the Fort and Palace, 
the Jami Masjid and Kalan Mas- 
jid, and the Chandni Chauk. 

(2) The tract lying N. of the 
city walls, with which the princi- 
pal incidents of the Siege of Delhi 
and the Imperial Assemblages are 
concerned 

{3) The tract lying immediately 
S of the city, and including the 
rums of Firozabad, the Purana 
Kila, the Mausolea of the Emperor 
Humayun and Nawab Safdar 
Jang, and Nizam-ud-din AuUa, 
the Saiyad and Lodi tombs, and 
jai Singh’s Observatory. 

(4) The tract lying still farther 
S , including the tomb of the 
Kmperor Firoz Shah at Hauz 
Khas, Siri, Jahanpanah, Kila Rai 
Pithora, the citadel of Lai Kot, 
With the Kutb Minar and Mosque, 
^nd Tughlakabad 5 rh. to the E. of 
these. ! 

I 

(1) The City, | 

On the outer face of the Hash- 1 
tnir Gate is a memorial tablet of the I 
Explosion Party. The first was 
erected by Lord Napier of J\lag- | 
dala, the present one by Lord ! 
Minto in 1910. On the inside the ' 
outlines of the Quarter Guard, in 1 
which so many European officers i 
were murdered on the nth Mav ' 
are still traceable ; on the 

side a staircase leads on to the ^ 
walls just above the main breach, i 
and from here and from the ■ 
3 -djoining bastion a fine view is i 
of the vistas cut to the points 
where No. i and No. 2 Siege 
Eatteries were established. E. of 
the Quarter Guard are the Dis- ' 


GATE MAGAZINE— FORT 

trict Courts and the second breach 
at the side of the Water Bastion. 

In front of the Gate is St James' 
! Church, built by Colonel Skinner, 

- C.B., whose Delhi residence stood 
on the opposite side of the clear 
space here ; in the churchyard are 
‘ the old dome-cross bearing the 
; marks of bullets fired at it in 1857, 

’ a memorial cross to the victims of 
, the Mutiny, and the graves of the 
, Skinner family and of Mr WilliaAi 
Fraser, murdered in 1S35, and of 
I Sir T. Aletcalfe ; and inside the 
I church are a number of memorial 
j tablets. 200 yds. S. of the gate 
1 is the Cambridge Mission College 
! on the right, and 200 yds. farther, 

I upon the left, the High School 
j building, once the Delhi College, 

I and before that the Residency. 

, Its occupation as a Residency 
j dates from the time of Sir D. 
j Ochterlony : a portion of the 
1 building was formerly the library 
of Prince Dara Shikoh. The road 
now divides into two branches vdth 
! a long grass plot in the centre. At 
! one end of the latter is the granite 
! memorial of the officers of the 
i Telegraph Department who fell in 
! 1857. Further along the same 
plot and opposite the Post Office 
stand the gateways of the old 
Magazine. Over the central gate 
of the Magazine is a memorial of 
Lieutenant Willoughby and the 
eight heroic men ^ who shared in 
its defence ; in the S.E. corner at 
the back may still be seen the 
steps by which the survivors 
escaped " to the Kashmir Gate 
The road now passes the oldest 
cemetery in Delhi on the left ; and 
beyond the arch of the railway 
bridge the main thoroughfare 
(which branches to the railway 
station on the right, and on the 
left to the ghats and the Jumna 
bridge) ascends the slope in front 
to the Mughal Fort and Palace, 


1 Lieutenants Raynor and Forrest, Con- 
ductors Shaw. Scully, and Buckley, Sub- 
Conduct* >i Crow, Sergeants Edwards and 
Stewart. • 









PALACE 


ROUTE 14. 

built by the Emperor Shah Jahan 
between 1638-48. 

There are two fine gates to the 
Fort, as at Agra, the one in the ' 
centre of the W. side and facing 
the E. end of the Chandni Chauk 
l)eing called the Lahore Gate, and 
the other at the \V. corner of the i 
S. side, and named the Delhi Gate, i 
A line view of the magnificent red ' 
sandstone wall (from whence the 
name Lai Ivila or Red Fort) is 
obtained by w^alking along the 
ditch to the N.W. corner, where 
the three bridges between the Fort 
and the Salimgarh may be seen, . 
and the traditional site of the lu- 1 
^aswamedh and Nigambodh ghats, , 
’Aiiere the Imperial Horse sacntice | 
was performed by Yndhishthir j 
{Introd. p. Ixxii), and the sacred 
^’edas were recovered from the , 
bottom of the ocean . ' 

Entering the forework erected ; 
by the Emperor Aurangzeb in 
front of the Lahore Gate, and pass- 
ing under its grand archway, it 
will be found that the route 
beyond leads under a vaulted 
arcade (see plan of Fort and 
Palace), which Air Fergusson (Ind. 
Avch., 2, 309) considers to be the 
noblest entrance known to belong | 
to any palace. From the octagon 1 
in the centre of it a gatewa y to the ; 
Icit conducts to the steps leading 1 
up to the rooms (now pnvate ] 
quarters) over the Lahore Gate ! 
At the foot of these, on the nth i 
May 1857, was killed the Commis- ' 
sioner of the Division, and in the t 
rooms above were murdered the ^ 
Wounded Collector and Comman- 
dant, the Chaplain, and two ladies. 1 
The vaulted arcade ends in the 
centre of the outer court, which 
measured 540 ft. by 360 ft,, of 
which the side arcades and central 1 
tank have been removed ; round | 
the edge of the latter were mur- 
dered, on i6th June 1857, some | 
fifty Christians who had escaped j 
the massacre of the nth. In the 
E. wall of the court was the now | 
Isolated Nauloafc or Nakkar Khana. 
the band gallery of which is 100 ft. ' 


261 

by 80 ft. ; and here every one 
except Princes of the royal blood 
was required to dismount. The 
carving of the flow’ers on the red 
sandstone dado of the gateway 
is unusually good.^ The inner 
main court to which this gateway 
led was 540 ft. broad and 420 ft 
deep, and was also surrounded by 
arcade galleries, where the great 
feudatories used to mount guard. 
This space has been recently 
cleared of the modern military 
structures which so long defaced 
it, the courtyard being now repre- 
sented by a lawn, and the arcades 
b}^ shrubberies. On the farther 
side of it is the splendid Hall of 
Public Audience, the Diwan-i-’Am 
(100 ft. by 60 ft.). The propor- 
tions ol this hall and of its columns 
and of the engrailed arches are 
extremely beautiful, and so far as 
the expression of power goes it is 
probably the finest of all such 
works ; the whole of it w^as origin- 
ally covered with brilliant chunam. 
At the back in the raised recess 
the Emperor used to be seated on 
his throne. Below it is the marble 
seat of the Wazir, and around it 
above are the inlaid panels exe- 
cuted by Austin of Bordeaux, in- 
cluding that of the artist as Or- 
pheus, lately recovered by Lord 
Curzon from the S. Kensington 
Aluseum. The hall has” been thor- 
oughly restored by the care of that 
Viceroy, and a Florentine artist, 
Sr. Aleniiegatti, has renew^ed the 
inlav work of the throne recess and 
the plaques of the arch to the W. 
side of the throne. Bernier gives a 
full account of the splendid appear- 
ance of the hall in the time of 
A^irangzeb. 

I See Guide to the DeUu Fci t Buildings 
and Ga>d<:>is (.Arch^eolosical Survey of 
hulia.), by E. Gordon Sanderson, 1914, and 
Catalogile of the Delhi Museum of Archet’ 
ologv, 1913. by the same author. Both can 
be obtained from the Caretaker at the Fort ; 
also, Catalogue of the Collection of Coi/if 
iih^stfats'e of the Histoiy of the RuUrsof 
Delhi up to 1S5S A.D., in the PeDil Museum 
of A^Jiteologj , by R Whitehead, I C.S . 
Calcutta iqio. 



262 


India 


ROUTE 14. DELHI 


A gate on the N. side of the i 
hall led to the innennost court of 
the palace, and to the Diwan-i- 
Kh^s, or Hall of Private Audience, 
in which the peacock throne used 
to be placed. Tavernier records a 
minute description of the glories of 
this throne, which was carried ofi 
by Nadir Shah. The following de- 
scription is from Mr Beresford's 
Guide of Delhi : '‘It was so called 
from its having the figures of two 
peacocks standing behind it, their 
tails being expanded, and the 
whole so inlaid with sapphires, 
rubies, emeralds, pearls, and other 
precious stones of appropriate 
colours, as to represent life. The 
throne itself was 6 ft. long by 4 ft. 
broad ; it stood on six massive 
feet, which, with the body, were of 
solid gold, inlaid with rubies, emer- 
alds, and diamonds. It was sur- 
mounted by a canopy of gold, sup- 
ported by twelve pillars, all richly 
emblazoned with costly gems, and 
a fringe of pearls ornamented the 
borders of the canopy. Between 
the two peacocks stood the figure 
of a parrot, said to have been 
carved out of a single emerald." 
Though the general effect of this 
has been spoilt by the unnecessary 
removal after the Mutiny of the 
marble pavement in front of it 
and of the arcaded court which 
once enclosed it hke the Khas 
Mahal at Agra (p. 238), it is still 
one of the most graceful buildings 
in the world, though its elegance 
shows a certain amount of ap- 
proach to weakness. It measures 
90 ft. by 67 ft., and is built wholly 
of white marble inlaid with 
precious stones ; the ceiling, whi^h 
was once of silver, and was re- 
moved by the Jats or Mahrattas, 
has been restored in wood. At 
either end of the hall, over the 
two outer arches, is the famous 
Persian inscription — 

** Agar Fardaus bar ru-i-zamin ast 

Hamm asc \va hamin ast wa hamin ast.” J 
‘'If there is a Paradise on the face of the ! 
earth, 

It is this, oh ! it is this, oh ' it is this.’* | 


The hall has many historical 
connections — the presence of 
Nadir Shah the Persian, and 
Ahmad Shah the Afghan, the 
blinding of the Emperor Shah 
Aiam by the brutal Ghulam Kadir, 
the reception of Lord Lake after 
the Battle of Delhi in 1803, the 
thanksgiving service of the Delhi 
Field Force on the 27th September 
1857, "trial of the last King of 
Delhi in January and March 1858, 
the ball given to H.R.H. the 
Prince of Wales by the Indian 
army in January 1876, and that 
on 6th January 1903, in honour of 
the coronation ol the late King 
Edward VI I . In the river-bed 
below the hall and the connected 
buildings was the space known 
as Zer-Jharokha, or Beneath the 
Lattices. It was here that the 
mutinous troopers from Meerut 
called upon the King on nth Ma}^, 
and it was from the terrace above, 
between the hall and the Royal 
Private Apartments, that Captain 
Douglas bade them remove them- 
selves to the South of the city. 
These apartments consist of three 
sets of rooms and of a tower called 
the Musamman (octagon) Burj, 
projecting over the river. In the 
centre room is a fine alabaster 
panel with a representation of the 
heavens round the Scales of Jus- 
tice, Mizan-i-adl, and in others 
will be found the most beautiful 
decorations and pierced grilles 
now left in Delhi. Two of the 
smaller rooms have lately been 
filled with articles representative 
of those in daily use by Mughal 
Emperors and nobles. S. of these 
apartments is the Rang Mahal, or 
Painted Palace, the residence of 
the Chief Sultana, till lately used 
as a mess-house, and now placed 
in a state of repair, all modern 
additions having been removed ; 
the marble water channel {see 
p. 263) runs under this also. Far- 
ther S. is another hall, the Mumtaz 
Mahal, till recently used as a 
sergeants' mess, and now the 
Delhi Museum of Archaeology. It 



ROUTE XA. MQTI MASJIO — JAMI MASJID ,263 


contains some Mutiny relich, views 
and plans of Delhi in former times, 
and an excellent collection oi 
Mughal miniature portraits. On 
the N. side of the Diwan-i-Khas, 
and connected with it by a shallow 
water channel, which also passed 
through the Royal Apartments, 
are the Royal Baths. These con- 
sist of three large rooms, the floor- 
ing elaborately inlaid with pietra 
dura work, and crowned with 
domes, unhappily whitewashed, 
i hey w’ere lighted by windows of 
coloured glass in the roof. In the 
I entre of each room is a fountain, 
aid in the wall of one of them a 
o.servoir of marble 

Opposite to them, to the W., is 
the Moti Masjid, or the “ Pearl 
Mosque/’ of white and grey 
marble. A bronze door covered 
with designs in low relief leads to 
the courtyard, 40 ft. by 35 ft 
rhe mosque proper has three 
arches, and is divided into two 
aisles The walls are decorated 
with low reliefs. It was built in 
1659 A.D. by Aurangzeb, and cost 
Ks. 160,000. Certain details in the 
decoration show that the elegance 
of late Mughal work was already 
beginning to degenerate into weak 
tioridness. 

To the N. of these buildings 
lay the fine Hay at Bakhsli, or 
hife-giving garden-court. 200 ft. 
square, of which till lately only 
the Shah Burj pavilion in the N.E. 
corner and the Bhadon and 
Sawan Pavihons on the N. and S. 
sides remained. The tank and 
water channels have been restored 
as far as possible, and all modern 
unsightly excrescences have been 
removed by the influence of Lord 
f'urzon. Beyond these the road 
to the N. leads to the Salimgarh, 
built by Salim Shah in a.d 1546 ; 
except for the view over the river, 
this outwork scarcely deserves a 
visit. W. of the above garden v as 
another called the Mahtab (moon) 
Bagh, and near what was the N.W. 
romer of it is a picturesque baoli 
tank. Notliing else remains of 


the com ts and beautiful build- 
ings of the old palace wLich were 
so barbarously and unnecessarily 
removed after 1857. ^be road 
from the baoli leads due S to the 
Delhi date of the Fort, which ib 
inferior to the Lahore Gate ; near 
it, on the right, the King of Delhi 
was imprisoned after September 
1 85 7. Between the inner and 
outer gates stand two large stone 
elephants (p. 230), without riders, 
replaced here by the gift of Lord 
Curzon. Beyond the Southern 
glacis of the Fort, on which a cross 
marks the site of the old ceme- 
tery, are the gardens ol the old 
Cantonment of Dariaganj. This 
area is not now occupied by troops. 
The Dariaganj area is bounded on 
the W. by the Faiz Bazar leading 
to the Delhi Gate ; over the Khair- 
ati Gate in the K.E. corner is the 
Zinat - ul - Masajid Mosque, built by 
a daughter of Aurangzeb in 1710. 
The house in the Cantonment num- 
bered 5, just be^-^ond the road to 
the gate, was defended for 48 hours 
after iith May 1S57 by a party of 
Europeans, of whom only two 
escaped finally 

From the Delhi Gate of the Fort 
the Khas Bazar once led to the 
Jami Masjid, and on the open 
space now on this side stood a 
number of the principal private 
palaces. In the Southern portion 
of this open space and to the left 
front of the Jami Masjid is the 
King Edward Memorial Garden, in 
the centre of which an equestrian 
statue of the late King Edward 
VII. IS to be placed. To the S. are 
the School of the Baptist Mission, 
and the Empress \hctoria Memo- 
rial Hospital for women, and to 
the W. of it are the Jami Masjid 
and Duflenn Municipal Hospital. 
On the left of the road and in front 
of the Delhi Gate is the graceful 
Sonehri Masjid of Javed Khan, 
bull t in 1 75 1 . Mr F ergusson wrote 
{Ind. Arch., 2, 318) ol the Janii 
Masjid as follows: “The Jami 
Masjid at Delhi, begun in 1644, but 
not finally completed till 1658, is 



ROUTE 14. DELHI 


India 


264, 


not unlike the Hoti Masjid in the 1 
Agra Fort in plan, though built | 
on a very much larger scale, and ; 
adorned with two noble minarets, , 
which are wanting in the Agra , 
example ; while from the some- , 
what capricious admixture of red 
sandstone with wlute marble it is 
far from possessing the same ele- 
gance and purity of effect It is, 
however, one of the few mosques, 
either in India or elsewhere, that 
is designed to produce a pleasing , 
effect externally. It is raised on ' 
a lofty basement, and its three ' 
gateways, combined with the four 
angle towers and the frontispiece 
and domes of the mosque itself, , 
make up a design where all the | 
parts are pleasingly subordinated ! 
to one another, but at the same 
time produce a whole of great 
variety and elegance. The mosque 
itself is 201 ft. in height by 120 ft., 
and is flanked by two minars 
130 ft. high, formed in alternate 
vertical stripes of sandstone and 
white marble, and crowned by 
light marble pavilions. Its prin- 
cipal gateway cannot be compared 
with that at Fatehpur-Sikri : but 
it is a noble portal, and from its 
smaller dimensions more in har- 
mony with the objects by which 
it is surrounded.'" The three 
noble gateways are approached by 
grand flights of steps, unri\’'alled 
elsewhere, except at Fatehpur- 
Sikri. As of old, the great doors 
of the main (E.) gateway were 
opened only for the Mughal 
Emperor, so now they are opened 
only for the Viceroy of India and 
the Head ut the Local Administra- 
tion, but other visitors can enter 
from this side by the wicket in the 
doors. These are massive and 
overlaid with brass arabesques 
half an inch thick. Inside them 
ib the stately cpiadrangle, 325 ft. 
square, in the centre of which are 
a marble basin and fountain. 
Round three sides of the quad- 
rangle runs an open sandstone 
cloister, 13 ft. wide, with pillars of 
the same material. The mosque 


proper is 200 ft. long and 90 ft. 
broad. The inscription on the 
front gives the date in Arabic as 
1638 A.D., the year in which 

Aurangj^eb deposed his father, 
Shah Jahan ; it is found in the 
single word “ Va Hadi," “ Ah 
the Guide,” on the centre panel. 
\'’isiLors entering any part of the 
floor space of the mosque are re- 
quired to envelop their boots with 
covers provided there. The three 
white marble domes are relieved by 
thin vertical lines of black marble. 
The two minarets rise to the height 
of 130 ft. They are reached from 
the S. gate over the roof of the 
arcade. At the N.E. corner of the 
court is a pavilion m which are 
placed relics of the Prophet Mu- 
hammad. The view of the Fort 
walls from the galleries on the E. 
•iide of the court is very fine ; and 
that of the outside of the back wall 
of the mosque from the \V. is 
most impressive. From there the 
Chaura Bazar leads S.W. to the 
Kazi Hauz and the Lai Kua 
Bazar, which is the principal 
I thoroughfare ol the SAW side of 
i the city, and extends up to tlie 
, Fatehpuri Masjid, S. Irom the 
Kazi Hauz one mam street runs 
past the Kalan Masjid to the 
' Turkman Gate, and another con- 
tinues W. to the Ajmer Gate and 
the mausoleum of Ghazi-ud-din 
Khan outside it. The Kalan 
(Great) Masjid, popularly known 
as the Kala (Black) Masjid was 
once included within the limits ol 
Firozabad, and was built by the 
Eiiipcror Eiroz Shah 111 1 3S6 The 
outside consists of two storeys, of 1 
which the lower, forming a kind 
of plinth to the actual place of 
worship, is 2$ ft, high, the total 
height to the top of the battle- 
ments being 66 ft. ” The sloping 
style of the architecture seems 
pecuharly illustrative of the build- 
ings of that and earlier periods. 
The sloping pilaster', on each side 
of the mam entrance give some- 
\ehni of an Egyptian appearance 
to the front of the building, which 



ROUTE 14. JAIN TEMPLE — CHANDNI CHAUK 


IS not dissimilar from those of the 
more ancient remains of Hindu 
architecture. , . , The peculiar 
construction of the arches and 
domes, the stones of which are 
held together by the wonderful 
adhesive qualities of the Ume used 
m those days, without any key- 
'^tones, IS characteristic of the 
Muhammadan Indian buildings of 
the 14th century (Carr Stephen). 
Ihc walls, which are very tliick, 
nave m the upper storey a number 
ut openings, tilled with red stone 
M'reens, now much mutilated ; 
the arcades are supported by plain 
square columns of stone. There 
a stern look about this sombre 
building, the plan of which, Bishop ■ 
Heber says, “ is exactly that of > 
the original Arabian mosques — a ^ 
'square court surrounded bv a | 
cloister, and roofed with many 
'’mall domes of the plainest and | 
most sohd construction." To the i 
h of the mosque is the tomb of ■ 
lurkman Shah, who was styled } 
the “ Sun of Devotees." He died i 
in 638 A.H.“i240 A.D., in the time 
‘d Muizz - ud - dm Bahram Shah, 
and his grave is therefore one ol 
the oldest of those near modern 
l^elhi. Xear the Turkman Gate is 
the successlul Christian Church ’ 
built in 1904. ; 

A little to the N. of this saint'i:' j 
grave in the Bulbuli Kliana is thi | 
tomb of Sultan Raziya, daughter 
the Emperor Altamsh, and the 
only Muhammadan Queen - Ein- ' 
press f>t India, who ruled from ; 
1230 to i2j.o; she W'as killed in 
tlight flora a battle in which she , 
nought to recover her throne. , 

* be mausoleum at the Ajmer Gate i 
enclosed in a modern horn-work. 1 
It was constructed about 1710 by 1 
Gha.zi-ud-(lin Khan, father ot the 
best Xizam of Hyderabad, whose | 
j’On, Ghazi-ud-dm, is also buned 
bere, and whose grandson, Ghazi- ! 
*-^d-(Un (Tmad-ul-Mulk), played a 
prominent part in the saddest 
events connected with the fall oi j 
the Mughal empire. In addition ; 
to the graves standing in a small 


enclosure surrounded by panels 
of pale-coloured sandstone, some 
pierced and some carved with 
flowers, there are a mosque and a 
college, the latter now occupied 
by the Anglo-Arabic School, The 
wooden doors in the Ajmer Gate- 
way are interesting as being similar 
to those of the Kashmir Gate, 
blown in on i4tli September 1857. 

Close to the Jami Mas j id, on 
the X.Vv. side, is a Jain Temple, 
approached b^" narrow streets. It 
stands upon a high, walled plat- 
form, gained by narrow steps, and 
consists of a small marble court 
surrounded by a stucco colonnade, 
in front of the temple proper, 
which is surmounted by an oblong 
dome. Within the ceiling and 
walls are richly gilded, and are 
supported by two rows of small 
marble columns. In the centre ol 
the temple is a pyramidal platform 
in three tiers, upon which rests the 
small figure of a Jain saint, seated 
beneath an elaborate ivory can- 
opy. Mr Fergusson ^ draws par- 
ticular attention to the exquisite 
device in the porch of filling in the 
back of the struts which support 
the architrave beneath the dome 
with foliated tracery. To the K. 
the Bariba passes the Dufferin 
Hospital on the right, and leads 
to the Chandni Chauk. The por- 
tion of that famous street between 
this point and the Fort was called 
the Urdu, or Camp. On the N. 
:?ide of it is a large residence, occu- 
pied, by the Delhi Bank ; this 
iormerly belonged to the Begam 
Samru, and here Mr Beresford. 
the manager of the bank, desper- 
ately defended himself and his 
family on nth May 1857. W. of 
the Dariba came the Flower 
Market and the Jewellers’ Market 
in the main street, and then the 
Chandni Chauk proper, which has 
swallowed up all the other names. 
Houses were built both across it 
and down it during the last years 
of Mughal rule ; tliey were all 

‘ InaitiH €. J, 00. 



266 


India 


ROUTE 14. DELHI 


removed early last century, and 
the branch of the W. Jufpina 
Canal running down was closed 
over after the Mutiny. Opposite 
a fountain and the S.E. gate of the 
Queen's Gardens is the Kotwali, 
where many executions took place 
after September 1857, and on the 
W. side of the open space in front 
of it is the Sonehri Masjid of 
Roshan-ud-daula, on the platform 
of which Nadir Shah sat m stony 
silence while the inhabitants of 
Delhi were being massacred by 
Ins troops. On the left-hand side 
of the Kotwali is the Sisganj Gurd- 
wara, a sacred place of the Sikhs, I 
erected to mark the traditional 1 
site of the mart^Tdom of their guru [ 
Tegh Bahadur, by order of Aur- j 
angzeb. Further down, on the | 
same side of the Chandni Chauk, i 
is the Khuni Darwaza, or Gate j 
of Blood, where the massacre b\' j 
Nadir Shah is said to have ter- ! 
minated. Opposite the Kotwali, 
in the centre of the square in front 
of the famous Kara wan Sarai, built 
by Jahanara Begam, daughter of 
the Emperor Shah Jahan, and held 
by Bernier to be one of the wonders 
of Delhi, rises the Northbrook 
Clock Tower ; while on the N. side 
of the street, between it and the 
Municipal Buildings, is the Statue 
of Queen-Victoria, presented to 
his fellow-citizens by Mr James 
Skinner, grandson of the famous 
Colonel Skinner, C.B., as a memo- 
rial of her late Majesty- Behind 
the Municipal Buildings are- the i 
Begam or Queen's Gardens, much ; 
frequented both by travellers by ! 
the railway and by townspeople; } 
In the gardens is situated the new [ 
Public Library, erected in memory i 
of the Viceroyalty of Lord Har- 
dinge The Chandni Chauk pro- , 
per ends at the Fatehpuri Mosque j 
constructed by the Begam of Shah j 
Jahan in 1650 ; it is built of red | 
sandstone, and is surmounted by i 
a single dome. On the S. side of I 
the mosque a street leads to the 
Lai Kua Bazar, and on the N. side 
another leads to the Lahore Gate 


and the smaller Sarhandi Mosque, 
erected by another wife of the 
Emperor, in front of it. Beyond 
the channel which formerly con- 
nected the Western Jumna Canal 
with - the Agra Canal at Okiila 
{but has now ‘ been abandoned), 
are the quarters of Paharipur 
and Kishangan (p. 254). To the 
' S., on the crest of the Ridge, 

, is the Idgah, seen so clearly from 
I the Mutiny monument ; and to 
I the S.W., at the foot of the 
' Ridge, is the picturesque enclosure 
of the Kadam Sharif, or Sacred 
Foot, in which Prince Fateh Khan, 
eldest son of the Emperor Firoz 
Shah, was buried in 1373. The 
name is derived from the imprint 
of the feet of the Prophet Muham- 
mad on a small slab preserved at 
the tomb. The road running 
from the front of the Fatehpuri 
Masjid past the W. end of the 
Queen's Gardens and the Cam- 
bridge Mission Church leads to the 
main road coming past the N. side 
of the gardens to the Kabul Gate. 
On the left side of the road, in a 
large house which once belonged 
to Nawab Safdar Jang, the Cam- 
bridge Mission is located. Besides 
the College and School under this 
mission, there is a large female 
. Hospital at Tis Hazari, below the 
j S. point of the Ridge. The lady 
j workers of the IVIission and the 
I members of the Baptist Mission 
I reside in the Civil Station. Far- 
' ther on, just before arriving at the 
site of the Kabul Gate, now re- 
moved, a piece of the old wall (the 
main portion of which has been 
demolished to make room for the 
new Burn Bastion road) has been 
left to mark the spot where Briga- 
dier - General Nicholson was mor- 
tally wounded in pushing towards 
the Lahore Gate on 14th Septem- 
ber 1857. 

(2) Tract lying N. of the City. 

The Dufferin Bridge, crossing 
the railway from the above road, 
leads to the Mori Gate and the 



' M3N/ 


267 


^ \ N\ Irt.^rtaJAssemWaie > 

. JCfero^aijoriDuroafS^J 

|i l^hirpur §f 

Y., \ ii AW' 


i^'((^^Chandrawa5 

^\ \/ 

^ ;?v2^gstaff tower [ 

\ ^W'W f, 

14 yiM. u 

i^lchaddai^^4^®^^^*^^^^nara II ft ^ 

- ‘^afden Q \Ml^JiN|r l\tudio»- Castle^ 

^ ^a^ =^Sabzj f^Skn^i^ONU5^7|^J^\ „ 'k 


•■,';:a'< !»a /f“-w ■■; f' ! ■ •' ' I 

'■- ■ \ .-.■- 


Map of the 

COUNTRY ROUND 

DELHI 


Railways 
Rivers Canals &c 
Metalled Roads 
Unmetalled Roads 


^ fjW Rail^^y-^ 

J>^;;^r, i ch^-- 


* *, i \ ,.. . . 

V' \nELHi 

■ ■■■y^_J..- c 


.. XX’ ' "' '" 


, -^- V?i-IYX5\1 r 

-■ & - ,wxX 


■:'ir:mmm- 

^ X iy^\ C5^au 


i§f' 




rCate yxiNDRARAT 
X „ iX^PURANA K1LA\ 


-- -,,, ^ TombV&ilt^darU-iJ;^ \ 


A 'SI, 


J^ •.c.fatpa-ganj 

/ ' ^Battle Tield 

'i . ./‘^''Sepi iS(K^ 




liNk 

V- , X Axy' 

! 


NEW /cAPifvAL 


' 1' // '^MuKa.mmad pur 

\ D 


M ujab I d p u <■ 


Ha,ui Kha&^ 


l^Mubarikpuf^ otli '^V * 

Kiiokrt \ - V 


Moth K' Masjid 


\a \ 43ko-a'r' 


/-'/w/oRT i 


, , 'JA«iNPAKAh 'cXa^D^lh, 

Ad-cin-,AM'it.f“^ .. X-' 




/ '‘^HlLA-RAf 'v 


ihamKhansTomK,^' 

Mahrautij^^ 

Nr ^^Dar^ah Kut’aL Sahib 


J 


To m Tuy'h/JkabaJ \ 

TUGMLAKASAD^,:^ » 

^'^'V 0«ia<srju;r 

AOILABAO ^^=;;3l L1\? 


268 


India 


ROUTE I 

Civil Station. The Mori or Sfcah 
Bastion, 200 yards to the W. of the 
gate, affords a fine view of the S. 
end of the Ridge and of the N. 
wall front down to the Kashmir 
Gate. The present walls of Delhi 
were constructed by the British 
after the attack of the city by 
Jaswant Rao Holkar in October 
1805. The repulse of 70,000 
Mahrattas, with 130 guns, by 
Colonel Burn, with two and a half 
battahons of sepoys and two 
corps of irregular cavalry, was • a 
most notable feat of arms, though 
now forgotten, like the Battle of 
Delhi in 1803 {p. 252). On the 
right, just outside the Kashmir 
Gate, IS the Kudsia Garden, and 
on the left the Nicholson Garden, 
with the jatcly-erected statue of 
General Nicholson by Sir T. Brock, 
R.A. He is buned in the ceme- 
tery N. of it. The grave is 50 
yds. to the right of the entrance, 
and bears the brief, soldierly 
inscription — 

The Grave of 

Brigadier-General John Nicii 
Who led the assault of Delhi, but fell 
In the hour of victorj- 
Wortally wounded, 

And died 23rd of September 1857, 

A?ed 35 years. 

To the left of the path leading 
straight from the gate is the grave 
of Mr' Hervey Greathed, Pohtical 
Officer with the Force before 
Delhi, who died of cholera lour 
days after the assault. Just 
beyond the back (W.) wall of 
the cemetery is the right section 
of No. 2 Siege Battery. Passing, 
in the Kudsia Garden, the Flag- 
staff which bore the Koval Stan- 
dard at the Coronation Darbar of 
1st January 1903, the site of No. 3 
Battery ^Wll be found to the S. of 
the mosque there, which formed 
part of the old Kudsia Palace, a 
fine building, wliich apparently dis- 
appeared early in the 19th ceutur> , 
and tlio Mortar Battery to the left 
of the N. entrance of the Gardens 
from the AHpur Road. Just be- 


. DELHI 

yond this, on the opposite side, is 
Ludlow Castle, the residence of j\ir 
Simon Fraser in 1857, and now the 
Delhi Club, with the left section of 
No. 2 Battery in the grounds close 
to the wall of the main road. 
Passing the offices of the W. 
Jumna Canal and Maiden's Hotel, 
the present residence of the Com- 
missioner will be seen on the left 
hand, temporarily occupied by the 
Commander-in-Chief. Close be- 
hind was the Telegraph Office in 
1857, of which the staff remained 
on the spot till late in the afternoon 
of nth May, and of which one 
member returned still later with an 
officer to send an official message 
to Ambala. It was the irrespon- 
sible talk of the office clerks along 
the hne which really conveyed the 
news of the mutinies of Meerut and 
Delhi to Ambala, and so to Lahore, 
and enabled steps to be taken to 
check worse mischief in the Pan jab. 
A quarter of a mile farther on, 
across a small drainage ra\dne from 
the Ridge, is a high mound, on the 
crest of which defensive works are 
still discernible. This was the 
Mound Picket, and Metcalfe House, 
which formed the extreme left 
of our position before Delhi, lies 
500 yds. E. of it, on the bank of 
the Jumna. The house, built by 
Sir T. Metcalfe between 1830 and 
1840, was destroyed at the Mutiny. 
Its ruins were acquired by Govern- 
ment in igii, and, after restora- 
tion, the house has been fitted up 
for the winter accommodation ol 
members of the Imperial Legisla- 
tive Council. The road now pro- 
ceeds N. for I m., and then turns 
W. through the Ridge, the North- 
ernmost outlier of the Aravallis, 
the Ridge Road to the left leading 
past the grave of some of the offi- 
cers of the 54th, murdered on nth 
3Iay 1857, to the Flagstaff Tower, 
to which another steeper road leads 
direct from the S. From the 
Tower a complete view is obtained 
of the whole position before Delhi 
and ol the encampment of the 
British Force below the Ridge, the 



ROUTE 14. RAJPTTR CEMETERY FLAGSTAFF TOWER 


269 


pale dome of St James’ Church | scenes of splendour such as were 
marking the site of the Kashmir ’ never seen under the greatest 
Cate, and the square roof of a of the Mughal Emperors. His 
tactory that of the Mori Bastion. ^ Alajesty’s Coronation Bar bar of 
The large house to the W. from the 12th December 1911 was also 
Flagstaff Tow'er is the Circmt held here. The earthwork of the 
House, built for the Viceroy at the amphitheatre erected for this pur- 
Coronation Da r bar, ami now occu- pose has been maintained, and the 
pied as the winter residence of the "^ite of the thrones occupied bv 
V iceroy . A pleasant walk may b(' their Imperial IMa jesties marked bv 
taken through the old Cantonment, a granite column 
ill which the hnes of a native cav- 


ahy regiment and residences for 
the officers 'were built not long 
ago, and which the Najafgarii 
Canal bounds on the farther side. 

1 he area on both sides of the canal ^ 
m reaUty a drainage cut) was used 
h>r the main Civil Camps at th(.‘ , 
Hst Imperial Darbax, and is nOv i 
'occupied during the cold season h\ ' 
the tents of the establishments ol I 
the Government of India and oi 
the cold-weather garrison. Near 
the drainage cut is the Eajpur 
Cemetery where Major-General 
H. Barnard and so many of his 
brave men wEo fell before Delhi lie 
buried.^ There is a memorial 
cross of grey Aberdeen granite, 
Beyond the canal was a batter^", 
erected to protect the rear of our 
position. Four m. farther down 
the road is the field of the Battle of 
Badli-ki-sarai, fought on 8th June 
^^57 (p- 254). A mile to the W. ol 
the old Mughal Sarai, of which onh 
the two main gateways now remain, 
are the ruins of the glorious Shah- 
^ar Gardens of the Emperor Shah 
Jahan, the scene of the coronation 
his usurping son, Aurangzeb. 
Half-way to Badli-ki-sarai, and re- 
moved some 2 m. to the N. side 
oi the road, is the Plain of Barwan, 
nhich the Imperial Assemblage 
J'T 1st January 1877 and the 
-oronation Darbar of ist January 
1903 vvere held, and presented 

^ ihis walk can be prolonged by 4 ni. b\ 
'yalking N. through the old Cantonment to 
end of the Ridge and the picture-^cjuc 
''grille of Shah Alam situated near V'azirabad 
C' bank of a nulla spanned bv an oU' 
bridge 


j Returning to the Flagstaff 
1 Tower, in wiiiLh the ladies and 
ciiildren of the C antonment were 
gathered all the long alternoon 
of TTlh ^^ay 1857, and looked in 
vain for the troops from Meerut, 
and proceeding S. down the Ridgt*, 
the old mosque of the time of 
Kiroz Shah, known as the Chau- 
bujrji Mosque, is reached in half a 
mile Tills formed the left of the 
British position on the Ridge, and 
round it traces of the breastworks 
may still be seen The dark 
building that rises m. farther S. 
IS the .so-called Observatory, most 
probably a portion of Firoz Shah’s 
Shikargavk, or hunting - lodge, 
known generally as the Pfr Ghaib ; 
to the E. of it the earthworks of a 
battery are still \a 3 ible, and just 
beyond it is Hindu Rao s House, 
trie key of the position on the 
Ridge which was so gallantly held 
by Major Reid (afterwards Sir 
i Charles Reid, G C^.B.) with his 
little Gurkhas, supported by the 
60th Rifles and the Guides. From 
the N. side of this, on the edge of 
the reservoir of the Delhi M^ater- 
works, a fine view is obtained of 
the slope from the Mori Gate up 
to the right of our position, to 
which the mutineers so .often ad- 
N'anced. At the bottom of the 
'slope, on the W, side, is a fine 
“ baoli/’ which no doubt also 
belonged to the Hunting Palace 
of Firoz Shah, called Kushk-i- 
ShiRar, and Jahaonuma. At the 
bottom of the baoli an under- 
ground passage of considerable 
proportions has lately been dis- 



India 


270 ROUTE 14 

covered and cleared out. It leads j 
through the Ridge to the lower ( 
ground on the N.W. The key of | 
the passage can be obtained at the ! 
Hospital. Within the grounds of j 
the old palace was erected the I 
pillar or Lat of Asoka, 250 yds. | 
S, of Hindu Rao's Hous^^ The : 
history of this column is given in ' 
the inscription on the base of it ; 
Three hundred yards farther S. I 
again rises on a lofty platform the | 
ungainly Mutiny Memorial occu- j 
pying the site of the right batteries 
of our position ; on the poor 
panels round the base of the 
memorial are records of the troops 
who ‘Served before Delhi, of the 
various actions fought by them, of 
our losses, and the names of the 
officers who fell in them Behind 
it, to the \V., was the Crow's Nest, 
over the old flooded quarry, and 
in front of it, to the S.R., was the 
Sammy House. It was at this 
end of the Ridge that Timur 
entrenched himself after crossing 
the Jumna in December 1399, and j 
repulsed an attack made on him i 
by the Minister of Mahmud Khan 1 
Tughlak, From it a fine view is j 
obtmned of the sites of the actual j 
siege, the Sammy House Battery i 
being in full \uew 400 yds. to the 1 
W.. and the smashed face of the | 
Mori Bastion 1000 yds. off, while 
the buildings of the Police Lines 
and Ludlow Castle and St James’ 
dome indicate the position of 
the Siege Batteries. The Sammy 
House, quaintly named from the 
image of a deity (Swami), in the 
court of a monastery, \vas held in 
order to check the attacks on the 
right, and round it some of the 
severest fighting took place ; the 
Sammy House Battery was erected 
100 yds. to the N. of it. In the 
dip of the Ridge which occurs at 
this point are seen the suburbs of 
Paharipur and Kishanganj, and 
farther to the W. that of Sabzi 
Mandi,^ through which the enemy 
so often attacked the British 

1 Vegetable Market. 


DELHI 

position, and even their nght 
rear ; while full in view, on the 
Ridge beyond the gap, are the 
walls of the great Idgah. W. of 
Sabzi Mandi are the Eoshanara 
Ga,rdens, created by the daughter 
of Shah Jahan, who lies buried 
here She died in 1671 — three 
years before her sister, Jahanara 
Begum (p 274). The gardens 
have lately been cleared and 
^»reatly improved. 


(3) Tract lying immediately to the 
I S. of the City. 

I It IS' more interesting to make 
1 the proposed round of this tract 
j by starting on the K . side from the 
1 Delhi Gate and returning on the W. 
} side to the Ajmer Gate. 

1 Not far from the Delhi Gate 
which has latei}^ been islanded to 
provide for the increase of traffic, 
were shot the rebel Princes whom 
Lieutenant Hodson had captured 
at the tomb of iiumayun. About 
800 yds from the gate a fine 
Pathan gate of decorated stone- 
work is passed on the left : it is 
known as the Lai Darwaza, or Red 
Gate, and was apparently the 
Northern gate of the short-lived 
capital of Sher Shah, which prob- 
ably was left incompleted. Im- 
mediately after passing the Lai 
Darwaza, a road leads to the left to 
the Kotila of Firoz Shah, which 
I formed the citadel of the city of 
1 Firozabad, founded by that Em- 
I peror. In the Kotila, built up on 
j the top of a lofty platform, rises 
j the second Lat of Asoka, which 
j was brought here from Topra, on 
the bank of the J umna m the Am- 
I bala District. The pillar is 10 ft. 

I 10 in. round where it leaves the 
; platform, and the total height is 42 
; ft. 7 in., of which 4 ft. i in. are sunk 
! in the masonry. At 10 ft. i in. 

^ from the base are some Nagri in- 
' scriptions, with the date in two of 
them of Samwat 1581 = 1524 a.d. 
Tliese must have been inscribed 



ROUTK 

‘liter the removal oi the pillar to 
Delhi. Above these Nagri inscrip- 
tions is the Pali inscription, which 
contains the edicts of Asoka. This 
dates from the middle of the 3rd 
century b.c.. and the characters 
are ol the oldest form that has yet 
been tound in India (see Introd. 
]> Ixxxi). It is very clearly 
\viitten, but, when Firoz Shah 
assembled all the learned of the 
day to decipher the inscription, 
they were unable to do so. There 
H a second inscription, which re- 
cords the victories of the Chauhan 
Pnnce Visaladeva, whose power 
extended from the Himalaya 
to the Vindhya. This record 
consists of two portions — the 
shorter one immediately above 
Asoka’s edicts, and the longer 
immediately below them. Both 
are dated Samwat 1220 — 1163 
A D , and refer to the same Prince 
The minor inscriptions are of little 
interest. 


To the S. of the Lat is a Mosque 
now much ruined, but which must 
once have been a very fine one ; it 
was surrounded by arcades and by 
a covered hall borne by plain 
stone columns like those of the 
Falan Masjid in Delhi. To the S. 
of it again are the large enclosures 
^hut in by the very lofty walls 
which look &o imposing from the ^ 
^uand Trunk Road. A consider- i 
able amount of conservation work 1 
has lately been done in connection { 
With this group. The interior j 
courtyards have been cleared ol 1 
debris and grassed. The circular ! 
baok^ with tw^o storeys of arches, 
lately revealed by excavation, is 
particularly worthy of notice. The 
ruins of Firozabad were exten- 
sively used for the construction of ^ 
d and of the Delhi of Shah Jahan, 1 
and but little remains of that now, j 
though scattered ruins show that ' 
its area must have been larger than , 
that of the present city. Two 1 
tbiles to the S., on the site of the 
r'M Indrapat, rise the lofty walls of ; 


PT'RANA KIT .\ 27! 

1 the Parana KUa, built by Sher 
j Shah, or by him and Humayun, 

; Auth their graceful high gates. The 
I S gate, by which the Fort is most 
conveniently entered, is reached 
by a bridge across an old branch 
of the Jumna here ; opposite the 
point where the road to it turns 
back N. are the Khair-ul-manazil, 

' a Madrasa, and mosque built by 
Alaham Anagah, foster-mother of 
• the Emperor Akbar and mother of 
I Adham Khan (p. 2S0). To the 
i side of this is another gate similar 
! to the Lai Darwaza, which 
formed the entrance of a large 
market It is worth while to 
ascend the gate of the Purana 
j Kila for the sake of the splendid 
^ \aew to the The large and 

j squalid mass oi mud huts which 
I formerly filled the wRole of the 
I Purana Kila enclosure has been 
cleared away and the ground 
levelled and grassed. Paths lead 
I to all the gates and round the fine 
I, double cloisters inside the walls. 

There are an interesting baoU of 
: great depth, and some under- 
ground baths near it. The road 
running straight on from the gate 
leads in 300 yds. to the Mosque of 
Slier Shah, which is one of the 
I handsomest and most picturesque 
structures at Delhi ; the colour 
of the red sandstone, the brackets 
under the balconies, the floral 
carving round the arches, and the 
pendentives of the domes of the 
interior are all worthy of special 
notice. A little to the S. of the 
mosque is a red octagonal build- 
ing called the Sher Mandal, on 
the steps of which, on the 24th 
January 1556, the Emperor 
Humayun slipped m rising from 
the evening prayer, and received 
injuries of which he died tho'c 
days later. 

Two miles farth^ down the 
Grand Trunk Road ' again, at a 
tomb wnth a dome of green glaze, 

I Left L'f the road will be been a kob 
juinar pillar or Mughal milebtone. The ku- 
of .A.kbar v\a^ 2 m looo yds 



272 

side roads run left and right to 
the Mausoleum of Humayun and 
the shrine of Nizam- ud-din Aiilia. 
The entrance to Humayun s tomb 
has lately been opened out and 
improved. The road leads first 
into a forecourt, on the right of 
which hes the entrance to the fine 
octagonal enclosure contaimng the 
mosque and tomb of Isa Khan, one 
of the best remains of the later 
Pat ha n period. It then enters the 


India 

as are the angles of the corner 
rooms of the mausolenm. Each 
side is 156 ft. long, and the height 
to the top of the dome is 125 ft. 
It stands upon a high platform ol 
red sandstone, and consists of a 
large central octagon surmounted 
by a dome with octagon tower.s oi 
unequal .sides at the angles. “ Its 
plan is that afterwards adapted 
at the Taj, but used here without 
the depth and poetry ol that cele- 


ROUTE 14. DELHI 



Bu Halima Garden, lately occupied 
by a squahd village, but now ' 
restored to its former purpose. 
Alighting at the Eastern Gate of 
the Bu Halima Garden, the visitor , 
passes into a garden forecourt to | 
the Humayun tomb enclosure 
On the right of the forecourt is the , 
gateway of the Arab Sarai, built b}' 
the wfidow of the Emperor Hurna- ^ 
yun. Immediately in front is the j 
noble portal of the tomb enclos- i 
urc. The wings of the gate are 
sloped backwards at the sides, 


bra ted building It is, however, 
a noble tomb, and anyw'here else 
must be considered a wonder ” 
(Fergusson) The red sandstone 
of the exterior is most artistically 
picked out in relief with white 
marble. The windows are re- 
cessed, and the lower doors are 
filled in wuth beautiful lattices of 
stone and marble. In the centre 
of each side of the main octagon 
IS a porch 40 ft. high, with a 
pointed arch. From the S. porch 
a door leads to the central octa^ 





ROUTE 14. HUMAVUNS TOMB--DARGAH 


gonal chamber, with a diameter oi 
4'^ ft., in wliich is the cenotaph 
of the Emperor — it is of white 
marble, and quite plain, with- 
out any inscription. The actual 
grave chamber can be entered by 
a long, dark passage in the S. face 
of the platform. In the N.E. 
corner above is the tomb of his 
wife, Haji Begam,^ and among 
the tombs in other chambers are 
beHeved to be those of Dara 
Shikoh, two brothers of Bahadur 
Shah, and the Emperors Jahandar 
Shah and Alamgir II. Steps lead 
from the side of the E. and W. j 
bays, first up to a gallery round 
the upper portion of the central 
chamber, and then to the terrace 
round the neck of the great dome. 
The buildings on the terrace, j 
which once formed a small college, ' 
afford a splendid view of the 1 
country on all sides. Inside the i 
garden of the mausoleum, which j 
measures 13 acres, is a pretty t 
tomb of red sandstone, with some ! 
beautiful grilles ; outside, at the 
S,E. corner, rises the blue dome of 
the tomb of Fahim Khan, while 
half a mile avin-y to the S.W. is 
the huge half -ruined tomb of 
Khanan Khan. Outside the N.E. 
corner of the garden, but not 
visible from here, is an interesting 
enclosure and mosque, said to 
have been the abode of Nizam-ud- 
din Aulia. It was at the mauso- 
leum of Humayun, it will be re- 
membered, that Lieutenant Hod- 
son received the surrender of ; 
Bahadur Shah, ex- King of Delhi, 
^nd of two of his sons and a j 
grandson, after the capture of the 1 
city. The garden of the tomb, j 
^nd those of Isa Khan and Safdar j 
Jung, are being well restored now, ; 
Every one who can should visit I 
the tomb and mosque of Isa j 
^hau, now in satisfactory sur- | 
I'oundiugs, of Khanan Khan (de- 
spoiled by a Nawab of Oudh), ■ 
^hd the old Barahpala Bridge * 
beyond it. j 

j 

^ Her tide was Mariam Mukami. ! 


j The Dargah, or Shrine of Nizam- 
' ud-din Aulia, stands on the left 
i side of the branch road to the W. 

! On the N. side are the Lai Mahal, 
or Red Palace, possibly of Ala-ud- 
din Khilji, and the Barah Khambe, 
or Twelve Columns ; and on the 
^ S.E. side, in the village, a fine but 
' ruined mosque, with four arcaded 
■ courtyards, similar to that at 
Khirki (p. and of the date of 
' 1372 A.D. The gateway ol the 
j shrine leads directly on to the 
tank, a special feature at Chishti 
Dargahs, and in thi^ instance the 
traditional cause of the quarrel 
between the Emperor Tughlak 
Shah and the Saint, who lived to 
the age of ninety-two, and died in 
1324 A.D. The story runs that 
the Emperor requisitioned the 
workmen on the tank for labour 
on his fortress at Tughlakabad, , 
and that when the Saint arranged 
to carry on his work at mght the 
Emperor forbade the sale of oil to 
him. Thereupon the water of the 
tank miraculously served as oil, 

I and was duly cursed by the in- 
censed King, in return for which 
the Saint cursed Tughlakabad. 
Be the cause what it may have 
been, there can be no reasonable 
doubt that Nizam - ud - din was 
j concerned with Ala-ud-din in the 
I plot against the Emperor ; and 
1 the saying with which he com- 
forted his disciples when told 
that the King was returning to 
punish him, and, indeed, was only 
a iew miles distant — " Dilli hanoz 
dur ast ” (“ Delhi is still far off”) — 
has passed into the currency of a 
proverb. On the right side "of the 
tank are some tombs, and from 
these and from the enclosure walls 
men and boys dive into the water. 
On the left side a covered passage 
leads to an inner gate, and yet to 
another, which gives admittance 
to the court in which the Tomb of 
the Saint stands. This is built of 
white marble, and is 18 ft. sq. 
and surrounded by a broad ver- 
anda ; it has been restored and 
altered on many occasions, and 



274 


ROUTE 14. DELHI 


India 


there is very little of the original 
structure left in it now. Round 
the covered grave is a Idw marble 
rail, and over it is a canopy inlaid 
with mother-of-pearl ; in the walls 
are fine pierced screens. To the 
W. of the tomb is a fine red sand- 
stone mosque called the Jamat 
Khana, with a large central com- 
partment and two side bays, some- 
what in the style of the Alai 
Danvaza ; and at the N. end 
of the enclosure is a- R.H. 
built by the Emperor Aurangzeb. 
S- of the tomb of the Saint are, 
from W. to E., the grave enclosures 
of Jahanara Begam, sister of that 
Emperor ; of Muhammad Shah, 
Emperor 1719 - 48 ; and Prince 
Jahangir, son of Akbar Shah. 
The grave of the first is open to the 
sky, and has grass planted in the 
hollow in the top of it ; the erect 
gravestone at the head embodies 
the sentiment of this humble 
arrangement. This was the lady 
successfully treated by Mr Gabriel 
Boughton, who asked as his re- 
ward certain trade concessions to 
the Enghsh in Bengal. The other 
two tombs have elaborately- carved 
marble doors in the archways in 
the screens of beautiful pierced 
marble work which surround 
them. Beyond the central court 
is another called the Chabutra 
Yarani, or Seat of the Friends, 
where the Saint used to sit with 
his disciples ; the beauty of both 
these courts is greatly enhanced 
by the fine trees in them. To the 
right in this enclosure is the tomb 
of the famous poet, Amir Khusni, 
the friend of Rie Saint, whom he 
survived for a few days only. 
In the inscription on the walls 
he is termed the Tuti-i-shakar 
makal, or sweet- tongued parrot. 
The grave chamber is sur- 
rounded by tv^o galleries, and 
only a very subdued light reaches 
it. 

E. of the tank, on a higher level, 
is the picturesque polychrome 
tomb, well restored, of Azam Khan 
- — known also as Atgah Khan — who 


saved the life of the Emperor 
Humayun at the Battle of Kanauj, 
and was a foster-father of the 
Emperor Akbar. He defeated 
Bairam Khan when that General 
rebelled, and was murdered at 
Agra on i6th May 1562 by Adham 
Khan (p. 280). 200 yds. farther to 

the S.E. is the Hall known as 
the Chausath Khambe, or Sixty- 
four Pillars, which forms the 
family vault of the sons and 
brothers of Azam Khan, who 
were known as the Atgah Khail, 
or Gang, from the royal favours 
which were showered on them . 
It was built by Aziz Kokaltash, 
foster-brother of Akbar, who died 
in 1624 A.D. 

About 2 m. from Dargah 
towards the Tomb of Safdar Jang 
will be seen a fine domed mauso- 
leum on the left and four similar 
buildings on the right. The first 
is that of Mubarak Sbab, murdered 
in 1433- Of those on the N. side 
of the road, the nearest figured in 
Fergusson's Architecture of Ind-ia 
covers the grave of another 
Saiyad King, Muhammad Shah ; 
the next is the fine gateway to a 
mosque beautifully decorated with 
plaster, and the most splendid 
specimen of this work in all India ; 
the third is a nameless tomb, and 
the fourth, N. of the village and 
close to a fine stone bridge, is 
the mausoleum of Slkandar Lodi 
{1489-1517), built in the middle 
of a fine fortified enclosure. No 
one who can by any means make 
an hour available should fail to 
visit these Northern buildings. 

Half a mile to the W., and facing 
the end of the road, is the mauso- 
leum of Nawab Safdar Jang 
(died 1754), by which title Mansur 
Ali Khan, the second Prince of 
Oudh and first Nawab Vazir, was 
known. The large garden enclo- 
sure is entered by a fine gateway, 
to the N. of which is a mosque 
opemug to the outside of the gar- 
den. The tomb stands on a high 
platform at the end of a paved 
walk, once with water down the 



ROUTE SAfDAR TANG — LAL KOT 


27 


centre ol it, as at the Taj It is 
00 ft. square, and is arranged in 
three storeys ; some of the fawn- 
coloured stonework on it is very 
effective, but the marble decora- 
1ion inlaid on the corner red towers 
t;reatly spoils the general effect, 
in the central chamber is the 
carved tomb of Safdar Jang, 
and in the chamber below are 
two earthen graves. The plaster i 
decoration of this chamber and I 
the rooms round it is perhaps I 
the weakest feature of the build- , 
ing. The view from the top of ! 
the roof is very fine. The garden, j 
which was once much neglected, has | 
been improved of late years. The I 
road to the N. of the tomb, which j 
connects it with the I^aharganj 
Miburb of Delhi city, runs directh 
through the centre of the area in 
which the new capital of Delhi is 
under construction. 3 m. to the 
^ , on the road to Delhi, is a ruined 
Dbscrvatorv, erected, like those 
at rjjam, Jaipur, and Benares, 
by Maharaja Jai Smgh of Jaipur 
about 1725 A.D. (see Jaipur Obser- 
ratory , p. I93h The largest ol the 
buildings IS an immense ec^ua tonal 
dial, named by the Raja the 
Samrat Yantra, or '' Prince of 
Dials,” the dimensions of the 
gnomon being as foUow^s : — 

ft. in 

Length of hypotenui^e . 118 5 

,, ba'ie . . T04 o 

,, perpendicubr 56 7 

■lo the S- of the gnomon are two 
circular structures, with niches in 
the walls to enable the ascension 
and declension of the stars to be 
rnarked on them. 2 m. N. of 
the Observatory is the Ajmer Gate j 
of the city. I 

I 

(4) The Extreme S. of the Suiround- ; 
ings of Delhi, including the ' 
Kutb (11 m. from Delhi) and i 
Tughlakabad (5 m. firom the i 
Kutb). j 

Immediately S. of the tomb of | 
Safdar Jang is the field of battle 1 


I upon tvhich Timui utterly^ de- 
j feated Muhammad Shah Tughlak 
I and his Minister on 12th December 
1 139^, dnd became master of Old 
! Delhi. A mile farther S., on the 
j left side of the road, is seen the 
! dark w^all ot the Idgah, where 
I Timur encamped the day after 
the battle, E. of this rise the 
walls ot Siri, and to the S. of them 
a loft)' platform knowm as the 
Badi Mandal, and the Begampur 
Mosque with its many domes. 
This mosque has an extremely 
fine court, and was built by the 
Wazir Jahan Khan in the reign 
of the Emperor Firoz Shah ; it is 
now occupied by a village in which 
some Europeans w*ere concealed 
in 1S57. A little larther on, and 
about m. to the W. of the road, 
a gleaming dome rising above 
trees indicates the Mausoleum of 
the Emperor Firoz Shab, who died 
in 1389. It IS built on the S.E. 
corner of Hauz Khas, constructed 
by 'Ala-un-din Khiiji, and is well 
deserving of a visit on account of 
its picturesque situation. A path 
has lately been made from the 
Kutb road w'hich runs directly to 
I this group of buildings, on winch 
! much conservation has lately been 
done. It was here that Timur first 
rested after his victory^ At the 
9th milestone from Delhi the road 
I passes through the JabaiLpanali 
[ defences, which were constructed 
to connect Siri, the new city of 
! 'Ala-ud-din, with the older Dellii 
to the S. of it. The w^all of this, 
originally the Fort of Rai Pitbora 
IS crossed at the loth m., wKence 
the Northern w’all of the citadel of 
Lai Kot is well seen. The remains 
of the w^alls oi the citadel of Rai 
Pithora have been marked out by 
beacons. In the middle of the 
E. side of the Lai Kot is the Kutb 
enclosure, and on the S wrall is 
the tomb of Adham Khan ;p. 280 
Rai Pithora is the local name of the 
Prithvi Eaja, the gallant Chauhan 
Prince oi Ajmer, grandson of both 
Anang Pal fl. Tomar and bis 
conqueror Bisal Deo, Chauhan, 



Tndto 


276 ROUTE 14. Delhi 

who checked Shahab-ud-dm Ghon 1 will be readily understood irom the 
near Thanesar m 1191. but was i accumpanyiiig plan. The original 
defeated and put to death the ! Kuwwat ul Islam Mosque ^\as 



next year, the fortress falling in , begun by Jviitb - ud - din Aibak 
1193 - . X ^ Viceroy of Shahab-ud-din 

The arrangement of the build- Ghon, after the capture of Delhi 

ings of the Kutb Minar Enciogure , in 1193 a.d., as recorded by the 




ROUTE 14 

King himself in the long inscrip- 
tion over the inner archway of the 
{ entrance. Even in ruins it is 
a magnificent work. It was seen 
b\ Ibn Batuta about 150 years 
after its erection, when he de- 
-iribes it as having no equal, 
either in beauty or extent, and 
^.as extolled by the poet Ainir 
Khusru, ivho specially mentions 
the extension of 'Ala-ud-din. ft 
la not so large as the great mosques 
ot Jaunpur and others, but is still 
unrivalled for its grand line of 
gigantic arches, and for the grace- 
ful beauty of the flowered tracery 
which covers its walls. It occu- 
pies the platform on which stood 
Kai Pitliora’s Hindu Temple, 
demolished by the Muhammadans. 
Altamsh in 1210 - 30 surrounded 
it by a larger cloistered court, in 
the S.E. corner of whach stands 
the Kutb Minar and extended the 
grrat screen of arches N. and S. 
‘icrobb the extensions on thest^ 
sidt'b ; and in 1300 'Ala-ud-din 
appended a further Kastern court, 

‘ ntered by his great S. gateway, 
the Alai Darwaza, and designed a 
great addition, with a turther 
extension of the screen on the N. 
^ide in which the Alai Minar was 
to correspond to the Kutb ]\Iinar ; 
mint'd j)iers ot these still remain 
on, the \V. and N, sides. The 
main entrance to the original 
mosque is an arched gateway in 
the centre of its E, wall. Steps 
ascending under this lead to the 
courtyard (942 ft. by 108 ft.), 
■^vhich is surrounded by cloisters 
formed of Jain pillars placed one 
upon another. Most of these are 
richly ornamented ; many of the 
figures have been defaced by the 
^luhammadans, though some may 
be found in unnoticed corners. 
Ihe Arabian inscription over the 
f"- gate states that the materials 
were obtained from the demoli- 
of twenty - seven idolatrous 
temples, each of which had cost 
twenty - seven lakhs of dilials, 
fifty dilials being equal to one 
rupee. The domed pavilions m 


KUTB MXNAR 277 

, the angles of the cloisters are 
worthy of notice. 

The famous Iron Pillar {see 
lower clown) stands in front of 
the central opening to the mosque 
proper — a building of small pro- 
portions, and now in ruins, over- 
topped and hidden by the grand 
. screen of lofty arches which occu- 
pies the whole of the W. side. 
This screen was erected by Kutb- 
ud-din later than his other work, 

, and was extended beyond on 
either side for 115 ft. by Altamsh 
The central arch is 53 It. high by 
22 ft. wide. " The Muhammadan 
! conquerors had a tolerabh^ distinct 
idea that pointed arches were the 
i true form of architectural open- 
ings, but, being without science 
sufficient to construct them, they 
I left the Hindu architects and 
builders to follow their own 
' devices as to the mode of carr\dng 
out the form. Accordingly, they 
proceeded to make the pointed 
openings on the same principle 
upon which they built their domes 
—they carried them up in horizon- 
tal courses as far as they could, 
and then closed them by long 
, slabs meeting at the top.” The 
ornamentation,* interspersed with 
: texts from the Koran, is' evidently 
I taken from that on the old pillars 
I of the cloister Fragments of the 
j roof of the mosque still remain, 

I supported by old columns, and do 
not reach more than one-third of 
! the height of the screen in front 
of it. MTien Delhi was captured 
, by Timur the ilughals massacred 
I all the persons who had taken 
refuge in the mosque. 

The Iron Pillar is one of the 
, most curious antiquities in India. 

I It is a solid shaft of wrought iron, 
j more than 16 in in diameter and 
I 23 ft. 8 in. m length. The height 
; of the piriar above ground is 22 ft., 

I but the smooth shaft is only 15 ft., 

; the capital being 3|- ft. and the 
‘ rough part below also 3J ft. 

I “ The Iron Pillar records its 
I own history in a well-executec^ 



ROUTE 14. 


DELHI 


India 


27.S 

Gupta inscription of six lines of , 
Sanskrit poetry. It was first ' 
studied by James Prinsep {B,A.S. \ 
Journal, 7, 630), and has been 
finally edited by Dr J. F. Fleet 
{Gupta Inscriptions, Corpus In- ^ 
scripiionum Indicarum, vol. 3). j 
It contains the posthumous eulogy 
of a king of the name of Chandra, j 
who is said to have conquered the 1 
Vanga Country {i.e,, Bengal), and, | 
after having crossed the seven ; 
tributaries of the River Indus, to . 
have vanquished the Vahlikas. ! 
In his memory the ‘ standard of ; 
the Lord Vishnu ’ was set up on j 
the mountain called Vishnupada, 

‘ the footprint of Vishnu.’ From | 
this it may be surmised that the . 
Iron Pillar bore originally the 
effigy of the sun-bird Garuda, and ; 
stood in front of a Vishnu temple. | 
It is also evident that the pillar < 
does not now stand in its original j 
position, as the locality cannot j 
possibly be defined as “ a moun- 
tain ” As the Gupta characters 
of the inscription belong to the 
Fastern variety, it is most likely 
that the pillar was brought to 
Delhi from Bihar, the ancient 
country of Magadha, which formed 
the nucleus of the -Gupta empire. 
The King' Chandra mentioned in 
the inscription is probably the 
Gupta Emperor Chandra-gupta 
Vikramaditya, who reigned about 
400 A.D. The name of Anang Pal 
also is inscribed on the shaft with j 
the date Samvat 1109=1052 a . d . 
According to tradition, it was 
Anang Pal, the founder of the 
Tomar dynasty, who erected the 
pillar. It rested on the head of a 
great snake until the Raja un- 
wisely moved it to see if this were i 
so — ^an act which cost the Tomars ! 
their kingdom. This tradition 
perhaps preserves a reminiscence 
of the removal of the pillar to 
Delhi by Anang Pal. Four feet j 
above the inscription is a deep | 
indentation, said to have been j 
made by a cannon-ball fired by ' 
the troops of the Bharatpur Raja. 1 
Tablets with the Sanskrit text of I 


the inscription, together with 
translations 111 English, Hindi, 
and Urdu, will be found in the 
northern cloister of the mosque ; 
they were erected by Pandit 
Banke Rai of Delhi. 

Sir Robert Hadfield, F.R.S., to 
whom chippings of the Iron Pillar 
were sent for analysis by the 
Director-General of Archaeology, 
arriv^ed at the following results : — 


Carbon 

Silicon 

.Sulphur 

Phosphorus 

Mans;anese 


0.080 per cent 
0.046 ,, 

0.006 ,, 

•o. 114 ,, 

nil „ 


Total elemenli other 

than Inni 0.246 per cent. 

Iron , . , 99,720 ,, 


Tdal . 99,966 per cent. 

Specil'ic gra\ity, 7,81 per cent. Hall hard- 
ness, No, 1 88 . 


‘'It will be noticed that the 
material is an excellent type of 
wrought iron, the sulphur being 
particularly low (0.006 per cent.), 
indicating that the fuel used in its 
manufacture and treatment must 
have been very pure (probably 
charcoal). The phosphorus is 
0.114 per cent. There is no man- 
ganese present — a somewhat 
special point, as wrought iron 
usually contains manganese. The 
iron was ascertained by actual 
analy.sis, and not ‘ by difference.’ ” 


The Kutb IVEinar is a graml 
monument, and looks what it is 
intended to be — a tower of vic- 
tory. It has been a question 
whether it was not originally 
Hindu, altered and completed by 
the Muhammadan conquerors, but 
the conclusion of General Cun- 
ningham — that it is a purely 
Muhammadan structure — seems 
to be the right one.J The lowest 
storey bears the name of Muham- 
mad bin Sam (Shahabuddin), and 
of Kutb-ud-din Aibak, and the 

^ ^ur pa:ticuUr^ rt;.-jardln5 the di'^cus'^ion, 
see AfchiSoL Rep,, i, 190. 



ROUTE 14. KUTB MTNAR — ALAT DARWAZA 


270 


next three storeys contain that of ; 
A 1 tarns h. At the entrance door 
IS an inscription of Sikandar Lodi, 
with the date 1503. As seen at 
present, it is 238 ft. high, and rises 
m a succession of five storeys, 
marked by corbelled balconies ! 
and decorated with bands of in- 
scription The base diameter is : 
47 ft. 3 in., and that of the top ! 
vtbout 9 ft. The three first storeys 
are of red sandstone with semi- 
circular and angular flutings ; the 
two upper storeys are faced chiefly 
with white marble, and were al- f 
most entirely rebuilt by Firoz 1 
Shah Tughlak in 1368, when he j 
also added a cupola. On ist 
Augi^t 1803 the whole pillar was 
seriously injured by an earth- 
quake and the cupola thrown 
down. It was injudiciously re- 
stored in 1829, the battlements of 
the balconies being remo\'ed and 
replaced by the present flimsy 
balustrades. Notice should be 
taken of the honeycomb w'ork I 
beneath the brackets of the first- [ 
storey balconies, of which the 
‘ structure differs in no perceptible 
degree from that in the Alham- 
bra/^ The lowest great band of 
text inscription is extremely beau- 
tiful, and is well seen from the 
top of the cloister of the mosque, 
or of the Alai Gate. A magnifi- 
cent view is obtained from the 
summit, reached by 379 steps ; 
but that from the first gallery, 
95 ft above the ground, is nearly 
as fine. 

1 

The Tomb of Altamsh (w'ho died | 
1235 A.D.) stands outside the 1 
N.W. corner of his extension of the i 
mosque. It is of red sandstone. : 
The main entrance is to the E., I 
but there are also openings to the , 
N. and S. The interior is almost | 
completely covered with beautiful ■ 
decoration, and is inscribed with | 
finely-w^ritten passages of the j 
Koran ; in the centre of the W. i 
bide is a Kibla of wliite marble i 
discoloured with age. The tomb ! 
is in the centre, and stands on a 


Ingh base , that the actual tomb is 
a cenotaph is proved by the recent 
discovery of a chamber beneath it 
(now approached by a narrow 
flight of stairs) which apparently 
contains the real grave. General 
Cunningham notes that though 
there is no roof, “ there is good 
reason to believe that it was ori- 
ginally covered by an overlapping 
Hindu dome. A single stone of 
one of the overlapping circles, with 
Arabic letters on it, still remains.'* 
Mr Fergusson points out: “In 
addition to the beauty of its 
details, it is interesting as being 
the oldest tomb known to e:?cist 
in India ” [Ind. Arch., 2, 209). 

The Alai Barwaza, 40 ft. to the 
S.E. from the Kutb Minar, is the 
S. entrance of the great or outer 
enclosure to the mosque. It was 
built of red sandstone richly 
ornamented with patterns in low 
relief, in 1310 a.d , by 'Ala-ud-din. 
Over three of the entrances are 
Arabic inscriptions, which give 
’Ala-ud-din's name and his well- 
known title of Sikandar Sani, the 
Second Alexander, with the date 
710 A.H. The building is a square 
with lofty doorways, with pointed 
horse-shoe arches on three sides 
and a rounded arch curiously 
decorated on the inner side. In 
each corner there are tw o w indow^s, 
closed by massive screens of 
marble lattice-w’ork. The gate 
stands high above the ground to 
the S. of it, and should be viewed 
from that side. . A considerable 
area of ground lying between the 
Kutb enclosure and the w^alls of 
the “Metcalfe Estate ’ ’ has recently 
been acquired, in order to allow 
the visitor to see the Alai Dar- 
waza from the S. A few yards 
to the E. stands the richly-carved 
building in wEich is the tomb of 
Imam Zamin. He came to Delhi 
in the reign of Sikandar Lodi, and 
died in 944 a. h. = 1537 a.d. The 
tomb is a small domed building, 
about 18 ft. square, of red sand- 
stone, covered wath chunam. 



28 o 


DELHI 


India 


ROUTE 14. 

There is an inscription in the Tug- 
hra character over the door. 

T'he Alai Minar stands 150 ft. 
N. of the original Kutb enclosure. 
The inner tower and outer wall 
are of very coarse work, of large 
rough stones ; the flutings in the 
exterior show the shape which the 
Minar would have assumed when 
lined with red sandstone. The 
total height as it now stands is 
70 ft. above the phnth, or 87 ft. 
above the ground level. Had this 
pillar been finished it would have 
been about 500 ft. high. In the 
S.W. corner of the oiUey enclosure, 
corresponding with the tomb of 
Altamsh, are a group of ruined 
buildings. That on the S. side is 
believed to have been the tomb of 
'Ala-uJ-din, and the grave in the 
centre room, lately brought to light 
m the course of excavation, is said 
to be his : the buildings on the 
right are known as Ala-ud-din's 
College. Considerable conserva- 
tion work has lately been carried 
out in connection with the Kutb 
group of buildings. The old road 
running through the group has 
been diverted, lawns planted, and 
an attempt made by carefully de- 
signed shrubberies to indicate the 
site of the extensive colonnades. 

To the S.E. of the Kutb Minar 
is a tomb of a brother of Adham 
Khan, once used as a country 
house by Sir T. Metcalfe, and 500 
yds. beyond it is a fine mosque of 
the latest Pa than style, known as 
the Jamali Mosque. At the N.E. 
corner of it, in a separate enclo- 
sure, is the pretty tomb of Shekh 
Fazl-ullah, decorated with bright 
tiles. 200 yds, due E. of the 
mosque, in the midst of mounds of 
ruins, are the broken massive walls 
of the Tomb of the Emperor Balban 
(1287 A.D,), which formed a Dar- 
ul-Aman, or House of Refuge, in 
his lifetime. 

To the W. of the Kutb enclo- 
sure, which is bounded by the road 
from Delhi to Mahrauli, a paved 
\vav leads to a well-known Hindu 


; temple called the Jog Maya. 200 
; yds. farther S. the tomb of Adbam 
j Khan rises high on the S. wall of 
1 Lai Kot. Adham Khan, who was 
j half - brother as well as foster- 
I brother of Akbar, murdered Azam 
Khan, whose wife was also foster- 
mother to the Emperor, in the 
palace of Agra, and was thrown 
down from the terrace there by 
the Emperor, who himself felled 
him with a blow of the ftst 
as he issued from his private 
apartments. Adham Khan had 
previously distinguished himself 
by driving the mistress of the 
last King of Maiwa to suicide 
upon capturing Mandu, while his 
mother, not to be outdond^ put 
to death two of that Prince’s 
daughters for fear that they 
might complain to the Emperor. 
She IS said to have died ol a 
broken heart a few days after 
her son, and to have been buried 
here too. The tomb is entirely 
constructed of matenais taken 
from some Pa than tomb oi the 
middle period. 

A short distance to the S.E. of 
the tomb, across the road, is a 
large round well, into which also 
men and boys dive. Not far from 
this is the northern entrance of the 
Dargab, or shrine, of Kutb-ud-diu 
Bakhtiar Kaki ; the inner gateway 
and the ruined music-gallery gate 
on the right of the approach date 
from tile time of Sahm Shah. 
Close to a third gateway is the 
grave enclosure of the Nawabs of 
Jhajjar, the last of whom was hung 
in 1857. In the main courtyard, 
which is but small, are a mosque 
and the tomb of Muhammad 
Khan , on the right, and standing 
back from them, is a gate to 
another court and the main \V. 
approach to the shrine. S. of this 
western court is an enclosure with 
a pretty but feeble Moti Masjid 
of white marble, built by Bahadur 
Shah, eldest son of Aurangzeb, in 
1709, and beyond it, in a separate 
court, are the simple graves of the 
Kings of Delhi Akbar Shah 11 . 



ROUTE 14. TUGHLAKABaD 


(died 1837), of the blind Shah ; 
Alam (died i 8 o 5 ), and of the Em- 
peror Bahadur Shah (died 1712}. 
The space between the last two 
was to have been the resting-place 
ol the last King of Delhi, who died 
at Hangoon in ^862. From the 
I astern courtyard a passage, payed 
and lined wth marble, and with 
a dne pierced marble screen on the 
right hand, leads pa^^t the Grave 
of the Saint, which stands in the 
open, protected by an awning 
abo\'e it ; on the back wall of 
this enclosure, which may be en- 
tered only vdth uncovered feet, 

IS some fine work of glazed tiles 
dating from the time of Aurangzeb. 
the Saint, who was born at Ush, 
in Turkestan, and perhaps came to 
Uelhi before the Muhammadan 
conquest, died during the reign 
of Altamsh m 1235 a.d. : his 
name, Kaki, is derived from the 
-ilieged miracle ot his having been 
ied by heavenly food — kJk ^ Cci'ke, 
Uutside the innermost shnne is 
the mosque where the Saint it-jed 
to pray, and beyond u is a pic- 
turesque baoli tank, now dry. 
At the W end oi this is the grave 
•*i 2 ahita Khan, and another said 
lu be that of Ghulam Kadir Khan,, 
who thus, if the grave be really his, 
lests near his unhappy victim 
Shah Alam. To the S. ot these 
IS a small court witli the graves 
ot the family’ of the Nawab of 
Loharu. 

Outside the W. gate are a fine 
gateway known as the 2vlahal 
Sarai, and beyond it a pretty 
mosque standing on a high plat- 
torm built by Ahsanullah Khan, 
physician of the last King of Delhi. 
Turmng S. from here for 400 yds. 
along the mam picturesque street 
of Mahrauli, the Shamsi Hauz, 
ihe great tank of Shams-ud-din 
Altamsh, will be reached on the 
right. It was constructed by 
that Emperor, and has a ruined 
pavilion in the centre hke the Hauz 
Khas of 'Ala-ud-din, and must 
iiave been very picturesque when 
full of water. On the F. bank is 


2S1 

an interesting building of red sand- 
stone called the Jahaz, or Ship, 
and beyond it the AuUa 
where, according to tradition, 
thanks were offered up on the 
capture of Delhi in 1191. On the 
opposite side of the road here is 
the picturesque Jhirna (Spring) 
garden, through which the water 
of the tank descended and found 
its way past the tomb of Balban 
to Tughlakabad. The walk down 
the depression to the tomb is 
exceedingly prettv 


The Fort of Tughlakabad lies 5 m. 
to the E. of the Kutb. The road 
to Tughlakabad will be found to 
the left immediately on leaving 
the- Kutb enclosure, and passes 
through the F. astern wall of Kila 
Rai Pithora, a mile farther on. 
The N.E. portion of this wail runs 
1 1 m. up to Khirki, where there is 
a most interesting covered mosque 
with four open courts, each 32 ft. 
sq., built by Jahan Khan in 1380 ; 
it must be visited on foot, but is 
well worth a \asit. Adjoining the 
mosque on the E. a fine sluice 
Oi seven bays, apparently of the 
same date as the mosque and f m. 
N E. again is the Dargah of Chir- 
agh Delhi, the last great Delhi 
i Saint, who died in i 356 > 

I Tomb of Bahlol Dodi (died 1488). 

Long before it is reached the great 
! Fort of Tughlak Shah is seen rising 
i high above the plain to the left 
i of the road. General Cunmngham 
writes that *' it may be described 
I with tolerable accuracy as a half -4 
! hexagon in shape, with three faces 
' of rather more than | ni, in length, 

I and a base of 1 J m., the whole cir- 
cuit being only i furlong less than 
4 m. It stands on a rocky height, 
and is built of massive blocks of 
stone, so large and heavy that they 
must have been quarried on the 
spot. The largest measured was 
14 ft. in length by 2 ft. 2 in., and i 
ft. thick, and weighed rather more 
than 6 tons. The short faces to 
the W , N , and E. are protected 



2.^2 


India 


ROUTE 14. DELHI 


by a deep ditch, and the long face 
to the S. by a large sheet of water, 
dry, except in the rainy season, 
which is held up by an embank- 
ment at the S.E. comer. On this 
side the rock is scarped, and above 
it the main walls rise to a mean 
height of 40 ft., with a parapet of 
7 ft., behind which rises another 
wall of 15 ft,, the whole height 
above the low ground being up- 
wards of go it/' It had thirteen 
gates, and there are three inner 
gates to the citadel. 

Opposite the causeway to the 
tomb a gateway with a Hindu 
arch leads into the fort at the 
point where the largest of the 
tanks in it was excavated. Be- 
yond this, to the N.W. and N. 
are ruins of the palace and a 
mosque, and high above it, in 
the S.W. angle, is the citadel, 
which occupies about one-sixth of 
the area. It contains the rums 
of an extensive palace, surmounted 
by an inner citadel, from whicli 
there is a splendid view. The 
ramparts are raised on a line ot 
domed rooms, which rarely com- 
municate with each other, and 
which formed the quarters of the j 
garrison. One dark passage near 
the S.E. corner, below the inner 
citadel, leads to a small sally-port 
in the outer wall. The walls slope | 
inwards, and the vast size, 1 

strength, and visible solidity of ,■ 
the whole give to Tughlak- 1 
abad an air of stern and massive ' 
grandeur that is both striking 
and impressive. 

* In the N. part of the fort below 
are the ruined walls of a Jami 
Masjid. The curse of the Nizam- 
iid-din Aulia upon Tughlakabad 
was — 

“■ Va base Gujar 
Ya rahe ujar ” 

(“ May it be inhabited by (/ujars 
or may it remain desol nte ’ ), 

and while it is impressively 
desolate now, it also contains 
small Gujar colonies in the midst 
of its desolation. 


The fine Tomb of Tughlak Shah 
\ is outside the S. wall of Tughlaka- 
bad. in the midst of an artificial 
lake, and surrounded by a penta- 
gonal outwork, which is connected 
with the fort by a causeway 600 ft. 
long, supported on twenty-seven 
arches. Mr Fergusson says {Ind. 
' Arch,, 2, 215) : The sloping 

p walls and almost Egyptian soUdity 
, of this mausoleum, combined with 
, the bold and massive tower of 
the fortifications that surround 
t it, form a model of a warrior's 
I tomb hardly to be rivalled any- 
j where, and in singular contrast 
t with the elegant and luxuriant 
I garden- tombs of the more settled 
I and peaceful dynasties that suc- 
j ceeded." The outer walls have 
j a slope of 2.333 in. per foot ; at 
base they are ft. thick, and 
[ at top 4 ft. The exterior decora - 
i tion of the tomb itself depends 
j chiefly on diflerence of colour, 
■ which is effected by the use of 
bands and borders of Avhite marble 
inserted in the red sandstone. In 
plan it is a square, and three ol 
Its four sides have lofty archways, 
the space above the doorway 
being filled with a white marble 
lattice screen of bold pattern. It 
is surmounted by a white marble 
dome. In the S.W. corner of the 
enclosure is a small domed cham- 
ber vrith a number of graves. 

“ Inside the mausoleum there 
are three cenotaphs, which are 
said to be those of Tughlak Shah, 

, his Queen, and their son Jiina 
j Khan, who took the name of 
Muhammad when he ascended 
1 the throne." This King was, and 
i is still, known as the Khuni Sultan, 
" the bloody King." Firoz Shah, 
his successor, bought acquittances 
from ail those he had wronged, 
and put them in a chest at the 
I head of his tomb, that he might 
I present them when called to 
judgment. 

Opposite the S.W. comer of 
{ Tughlakabad a fine embankment 
j which held up the waters of the 
‘ lake connects Adilabad with it ; 



ROUTE 15 


DELHI — PANTIPAT 


28-^ 


tiiere is a slmce between it and 
the rocky ground at the N fiid. 
\dilabad is said to have been 
built by Muhammad Tughlak ; 
there is a fine gate in the Hindu 
^tyle m the W. face, and a magni- 
iicent view from the top oi the 
mausoleum and fort and the 
Kutb Minar. A little farther to 
the K. is an isolated fortified 
residence called the Nai’s (Bar- 
ber's^ Fort, which seems to have 
been a college or the residence of 
>ome saint. m. farther on, 

and 8 m. from the Kutb, is 
Badarpur, on the Grand Trunk 
Road and railway from Delhi to 
Muttra. Tilpat lies 4 iti. S.W. of 
Badarpur. From this place it is 
7 in. to the mausoleum of Huma- 
vim and shrine of Nizam-ud-din. 


ROUTE 15- 

i.() DELHI to KASAULI (171 m ) 
and Simla (219 m.) by Panipat, 
Thaneaar, Amhala, and Kalka 
(162 m.). 

(b) DELHI to LAHORE by Ghazia- 
bad Junction, Meerut, Sard- 
hana, Saharanpur, Ambala, 
Sirhind, Ludhiana, JuUundur, 
AmritBar, and Lahore Canton' 
ment (349 m.). 

There are two railway routes 
from Delhi to Ambala, and to 
farther N., viz. : — 

(r) The direct E.I. Railway 
fine on the W. bank of the Jumna, 
through Panipat and Karnal, 
123 m., in 4 to 6 hrs. ; fares, 
10, Rs 3, R I 12 annas. 

(2) The N.W. Railway line on 
the E. bank of the river, crossing 


i it twice, and passing through 
Ghaziabad, Meerut, and Saharan - 
j pur, 162 m. in 6 to 8 hrs. ; fares. 

I Rs 15, Rs.yL Rs.2. 

(I) 

Leaving the ceiilrai station at 
. Delhi, the railway proceeds over 
I a level plain to 

9 m. Badli. Before reaching 
j tins station the ruins of the Sha- 
] limar gardens (p. 269) are seen on 
' the left, and the battlefield of 
i Badli'ki-sarai (pp. 251 and 269) 

I on the right. From here the tract 
j irrigated by the W, Jumna Canal 
IS entered. 

i 

1 27 m. Souepat, an ancient place, 

and with Panipat (see below), 

' Baghpat (lying E. on the Jumna), 
Indrapat (p. 27 1), and Tilpat 

(see lelt column), one of the five 
estates or pats over which the 
traditional conflict of the iSlahiib- 
haraia took place about tooo k r. 
j (p. Ixxn. Introd.). 

53 m. Panipat station iD.B. ' 

' (population 26,342). The modern 
town stands near the old bank 
i of the Jumna, upon a iiigh mound 
consisting of the de))ns of earlier 
I buildings. In the centre the 
; streets are Avell paved, but the 
outskirts are low and scjualid. 
There are the usual civil offices. 
There are a large civil R H. 

! and a small P.W.D. bungalow, 

: where travellers can stay after 
I obtaining permission from the 
I Deputy- Commissioner, but they 
i have to make their own arrange - 
I in ents for tood. 

The principal building of anti- 
' quity is the shrine of Kalandar, 
; a celebrated local saint. The 
j legends about him show that he 
' directed the Jumna to move back 
! seven pace®, as he had become 
j stiff standing in the water, but in 
i her hurrv to obey she moved back 
! seven miles. He gave a charm to 
The 1 ’anipat people which dispelled 



India 


284 ROUTE 15 ia) 

all the flies, but they grumbled at 
this, so he brought them back a 
thousandfold. His body is said 
to have been buried in three 
places — namely, at Karaal, Bud ha 
Khera, and Panipat. 

Panipat is famous as the place 
where three of the most decisive 
battles in India have been fought ; 
but the silent plain tells no tales, 
and shows scarcely any sign of the 
events that have happened on it. 

Here, on the 21st April 1526, 
Babar encountered Ibrahim Lodi, 
King of Delhi. On the night 
before the battle Babar had sent 
out 5000 men to make a night 
attack on the Indian army, but 
this had failed, owing to a delay 
on the part of the attacking force, 
which ^d not reach the enemy's 
camp till dawn. With the first 
streaks of light next day the 
Mughal pickets reported that the 
Indians were advancing in battle 
array. Babar immediately pre- 
pared for action, and stationed 
strong flanking parties of Mughals 
on the right and left of his line, 
who, when ordered, were to wheel 
round and take the enemy in 
.flank and rear. When the In- 
dians arrived at the Mughal lines 
they liesitated for a moment, and 
Babar availed himself of their 
halting to attack them, at the 
same time sending his flanking 
parties to wheel round and charge 
them in the rear. Babar ’s left 
wing was roughly handled, but he 
supported it by a strong detach- 
ment from the centre, and the 
Indians in the end were driven 
back. On the right, too, the 
battle was obstinately contested, 
but Babar’s artillery was the more 
effective, and at last the Indians ' 
fell into confusion. They main- 
tained the battle till noon, when 
they gave way in aU directions. 
The rest was mere pursuit and 
slaughter. According to Mughal 
accounts, 15,000 Indians were left 
dead on the field of battle, and 
those who fled from the field were i 
chased as far as Agra. The body 


DELHI TO SIMLA 

' of Ibrahim Lodi ^ was found the 
' same afternoon anudst 5000 or 
I 6000 of liis soldiers i>flng in heaps 
around him, and was specially 
i honoured by the victor. Babar 
I reached Delhi on the third day 
' after the battle, and on the Friday 
following his name as Emperor was 
I read in the public pra3^ers. 

The Second great battle was 
' fought on the 5th of Xovernber 
. 1556 AD., wflien the youthful 
i Akbar, who had just succeeded his 
I father, the EinperorHumayun, and 
his General, Bahram Khan, de- 
feated Hi mu, - the General of Sultan 
, Muhammad Shah ’Add, nephew 
! of Sher Shah. Himu had 50,000 
j cavalry and 500 elephants, besides 
infantry and guns ; but after 
a well - contested battle lie was 
: wounded in the eye by an arrow, 
taken prisoner, and put to death. 
This battle was decisive of the 
fate of the Fathan dynast^' calletl 
the Sur, founded by Sher Shah, 
^ 54 ^^ -5, and finally established 
the fortunes of the House of Timur. 

Th^" Third battle took place on 
Ihe 7lh of January 1761 a.d,, 
when the whole strength of the 
xMahrattas was crushed with ter- 
rible slaughter by Ahmad Shall 
Durani, the Afghan King All 
the Mahratta Chieftains of note, 
Holkar, S( nidu, the Gaekwar, the 
Leshwa’s cousin and son, were 
prej>ent with their foices. The 
Mahratta arm\' is said to have 
amounted to 15,000 infantry, 

55.000 cavalr)^ 200 guns, and 
Pindaris and camp-followers num- 
bering 200,000 men. The Afghan 
lOrce consisted of 38,000 infantrv, 

42.000 cavalry, and 70 guns, 
besides numerous irregulars. The 
Mahrattas had allowed themselves 
to be cooped up in their camp for 
many days, and were compelled 
to fight by impending starvation. 
On the morning of the battle they 

grave of the King lies on the 
N.pv . side 01 the city. 

“ Hzmii. who had driven Humayun’s 
Governor out of Delhi, had the misfortune 
to lose his guns before the battle. 



ROUTE 13. U ANITA I — K ARK AT 


285 


marched out with the ends of 
then turbans loose, their heads and 
faces anointed with turmeric, and 
with every other sign of despair. 
Seodasheo Rao, the Bhao, the 
cousin and Generalissimo of the 
Peshwa, with Wisw^as Rao, the 
fVohwa's eldest son, and Jaswant 
Kao Hoikar, were opposite the 
Afghan Grand Wazir. The great 
standard of the Mahratta nation, 
the Bhagwa Jhanda, floated in the 
Alahratta van, and there were 
three Janpatkas, or Grand En- 
signs, of the Peshwa in the field 
The Mahrattas made a tremen- 
dous charge full on the Afghan 
centre, and broke through 10,000 
cavalry under the Wazir, which 
unwisely received them without 1 
advancing. The dubt and confu- 
sion were so great that the com- 
batants could only distinguish 
each other by their war-cries. 
The Wazir Shah Wall Khan, vvho 
w^as in full armour, threw' himself 
from his horse to rally his men, 
but most of them here gave w^a^' ; 
while Ibrahim Khan Gardi, who 
commanded the Mahratta artil- 
lery, broke the Rohillas wiu' 
formed the right wing of tlit 
Muhammadan arm}', and killed or 
wounded 8000 of them. Ahmad 
Shah now' evinced his general- 
ship ; he sent his personal guards 
to rally the fugitives, and ordered 
up his reserves to support the 
Wazir. In this protracted and 
close struggle the physical strength 
of the Afghans proved an over- 
match for the shghter frames 
ot the Hindus. A little after 2 
R.M. Wiswas Rao W'as mortally 
wounded, and Seodasheo Rao, 
after sending a secret message to 
Hoikar, charged into the thickest 
of the fight and disappeared. 
Whatever the message to Hoikar 
Was, it proved instantaneously 
fatal, for he w^ent off, and was fol- 
lowed by the Gaekw'ar. Scindia' 
W'ho left the field last, was cut 
down by an Afghan horseman 
many miles from it ; he used to 
say that for long years afterw'ards 


he constantly saw in his dreams 
his grim pursuer gaining and gam- 
ing on him, and finally leave him 
for dead. The Mahrattas then 
fled : thousands were cut down, 
and vast numbers were destroyed 
in the ditch of their entrenchment. 
The village of Panipat W'as 
crow^ded wTth men, women, and 
children, to whom the Afghans 
showed no mercy. They took the 
women and children as slaves, 
and after ranging the men in lines, 
amused themselves wdth cutting 
off their heads. The spot where 
Seodasheo, the Bhao, stood to 
w^atch the fight is now marked by 
a small monument, and is about 
3 m. E, of Pampat. To the S. 
of this spot, near Qgra Khen 
\iUage, three gun emplacements, 
or mounds, still exist. 

76 m. Karnal station (D.B.< 
(population 21,961). There is a 
comfortable D.B, near the Grand 
Trunk Road, wdth a dining-room, 
three large and one small bed- 
rooms, each with a bathroom. 
A khansama is in charge, and 
supphes meals at ordinary rates. 

A large up-to-date hospital to 
:iccommodate 130 patients was 
erected in 1910-11 as a memorial 
to King Edward VH. 

The towm of Karnal is tradition- 
ally of great antiquity, being 
said to have been founded by 
Raja Kama, champion of thc 
Kauravas, in the great w^ar of the 
Mahabharata. It was seized b> 
the Raja of Jind in the middle of 
the 1 8th century, and wrested 
from him in 1795 by the adven- 
turer George Thomas- It was 
conferred by Lord Lake in 1803 
upon Nawab jMuhainmad Khan, 
a IMandil Pathan. A British Can- 
tonment w^as maintained here 
until 1S41, when it w'as abandoned, 
probably owing to the unhealtlu- 
ness of the site, as the W. Jumna 
Canal, passing the city, inter- 
cepted the drainage and caused 
mala rial fever. The canal has 
since been realigned. A wall 



286 


India 


ROUTE 15. (a) 

12 ft. high encloses the town. A 
Government Military Dairy Farm 
has been established in the old 
Cantonment lands. There is fair 
smaU-game shooting near, and fine 
black buck shooting 20 m. to the 
W. 

Kamal is famous as being the 
place where the Persian Nadir 
Shah defeated the Mughal Em- ^ 
peror Muhammad Shah in 1739. j 
The battle lasted two hours, | 
20,000 of the Indian soldiers were i 
killed, and a much greater number .| 
taken prisoners. An immense i 
treasure, a number of elephants, | 
part of the artillery of the Em- { 
peror, and rich spoils of every i 
description fell into Nadir Shah's 
hands. The Persian loss is vari- 
ously stated at from 500 to 2500 
killed. The next day Muhammad 
Shah surrendered himself to his 
conqueror, who marched to Delhi, 
and after a massacre in the streets 
and a fifty - eight days' sack 
returned to Persia with a booty 
estimated at 30 to 70 million 
pounds sterling (see p. 252). 

99 m. Thanesar (D.B.) (popula- 
tion 4719) is a famous place of 
Hindu pilgrimage and a very 
ancient town, near which Shahab- 
ud-din Ghori was defeated by and 
subsequently defeated the Prithvi 
Raja in 1192 a.d. It was for- 
merly the capital of a Hindu 
kingdom ruling the S.E, portion 
of the Panjab, but is now mostly 
in ruins. As many as 100,000 
persons have been known to 
assemble here on the occasion of 
an eclipse of the moon, when it is 
beheved that the waters of all 
other tanks visit the one here, so 
that he who bathes in it at the 
moment of echpse obtains the 
additional merit of bathing in all 
the others. This Brahmasar Tank 
lies about i m. W, of the railway 
station called Kurukshetra junc- 
tion, until a few vears ago known 
as Thanesar j unction, and is reached 
by passing through part of the 
town. It is an oblong sheet of 


DELHI TO SIMLA 

water 3546 ft. in length, and is not 
only the centre of attraction to 
pilgrims, but also the haunt of 
innumerable wild-fowl from the 
pelican to the snipe. It is sur- 
j rounded by temples in every stage 
I of decay, overshadowed by great 
I trees, and flights of dilapidated 
1 steps lead down to the water on all 
sides. On the W, a causeway 
stretches out to an island where, 
partly hidden by trees, the most 
perfect of the temples stands. The 
rums of this causeway extend 
farther S. to the remains of other 
temples The area round it is 
known to the Hindus as the Dhar- 
niakslietra, or the Holy Field, wliich 
was the centre of Kurukshetra, the 
great plain of tiie Mahabharaia 
battle of the Kauravas and Panda - 
vas (Introd. p.lxxn.). Traditionally 
the latter is 40 kos. (50 m.) in 
length, and extends W. to Pehowa 
and Kaithal, which are both 
sacred places. The Kurukshetra 
tract, containing the battlefield, 
IS about 70 m. by 30 m. Here 
also the ancient Aryans, after a 
brief sojourn on the banks of the 
Indus on their way from Central 
Asia, made their first settle- 
ment in India and started the 
Hindu religion. Kurukshetra is 
described in Sanskrit hterature, 
and was named Brahmavarta, or 
land of divine sages. “ fashioned 
by God and chosen by the 
Creator." On the Sarsuti, a mile 
N. of the town and a mile W. of 
the tank, and all round at various 
distances, are a number of sacred 
sites, some identified with places 
actually mentioned in the Maha- 
bharata. • 

The Town is about | m. N. of 
the tank, and beyond it are exten- 
sive remains of the Muhammadan 
Fort. The chief building of in- 
terest, and that in best repair, is 
the white-domed Tomb of Shaikh 
Chilli. It is an octagon of drab- 
coloured marble, lighted by trellis- 
work windows of fine design. It 
stands upon a small octagonal 



ROUTE 15- KAITHAJ. - -AMBAI A 2S7 


platform in the centre of a larger 
square one surrounded by cupolas. 
In the centre of the side is a 
small paidhon with deep caves, 
which also forms a tomb. 

S.W. from here, within a stone's 
thrown is a small mosque of red 
sandstone (the Lai Masjid), sup- 
ported on eight columns. The 
car\ing on the domes and else- 
where IS very beautiful, and re- 
sembles that at Fatehpur-Sikri. 
Some of the trees in the neighbour- 
hood are very fine. 

Between Thanesar and Ambala 
are passed the Sarsiiti (ancient 
Saraswati), Markanda, and other 
torrents issuing from the Siw^aliks, 
and above Ambala the Ghaggar or 
Brishadvati. | 

The strip of country included 1 
between the first and last is i 
“ the Holy Land " of the Hindu ! 
iaith, the first permanent home 
of the Aryans in India, and the 
i>pot in which their religion took 
shape. Hence the sanctity of the 
waters of the Sarsuti, to w'hich 
worshippers flock from all parts 
of India, 

There is a branch railway from 
Kurukshetra junction lo m. to 
Narwana on the Southern Panjab 
Baihvay via Kaithal. 

Kaithal is the headquarters of 
the subdivision and tahsil of the 
same name in the Kamal district 
(population 12,912). The town 
is picturesquely situated on the 
bank of an extensive artificial lake | 
or moat, with numerous bathing 
places and flights of steps. Dur- 
ing the time of the earlier Muham- 
madan Emperors it was a place of 
some importance. In 1767 it fell 
into the hands of the Sikh Chief 
Bhai Desu Singh, whose descend- \ 
9 'nts. the Bhais of Kaithal, ranked 
a-mong the most powerful of the ' 
Cis-Sutlej Chiefs. This terntory ! 
lapsed to the British Government 
m 1843. The ruins of the old 
mrt and residence of the Kaithal 
family stand out prominently on 
the high bank of the Biddiar Lake, j 


as it IS called. A portion has been 
kept in repair, and is used as 
talisil and police offices. 

There is a civil R.H., which 
can be used with the permission 
of the Subrlivisional Officer 


Gharaunda — A small village on 
the Grand Trunk Road, with 
railway station between Panipat 
and Karnal. To the E of the 
\dUage are still standing two 
handsome gateways of the old 
Mughal sarai. The Emperor Shah 
Jahan laid out a road from Delhi 
to Lahore, marked it at intervals 
of a kos wdth large masonry 
pillars shaped like acorns and 
called kos r.iinaY At the various 
stages he erected large sarais, 01 
fortified walled enclosures, with 
numerous quarters for the benefit 
of travellers. Most of the kos 
pillars still exist, but the only 
remains of the old sarais in the 
Karnal District are those of the 
two gates at Gharaunda. The 
( Grand Trunk Road follows 
I roughly the line of the old route. 

123 m. AMBALA Cantonment 
I junction station. Headquarters of 
! the Sirhind Brigade, 3rd (Lahore) 

! Division. Ambala City and 
I Civil Station ^ are 5 m. farther 
^ N.W. (total population 80,131). 

! The important Cantonments were 
' formed m 1843 ; they cover 7220 
acres, and are laid out with good 
roads and fine trees. The centre 
is occupied by the bungalows 
of the residents, and to the W. 
are the mihtary lines, and the 
whole is surrounded by extensive 
Maidans. 

The Racecourse is on the E. 
Maidan ; Paget Park, a favourite 
resort, is on the N There are 
various good European shops in 
the Cantonment. The city is a 
second-class municipal town, and 
the headquarters of the district. 

The Cantonment Church, winch 



288 ROUTE 15 . {«) 

is -in the Gothic style, was conse- 
crated in 1857, and is one of the 
finest in India. There are also a 
Presbyterian and a Roman Catholic 
Church, a Hospital, Charitable 
Dispensary, and a Leper Asylum. 


102m. Kalka station (D.B.K.), 
the terminus of the broad-gauge 
railway, 2400 ft. above sea-ievel. 
A few miles ’S.E. of Kalka is 
the old Mughal Palace of Pin j or, 
in picturesque gardens. 

The mountain railway from 
Kalka to Simla has now been open 
for some years. Following the 
line of the old Tonga Road most 
of the way, it passes round the W. 
and N. sides of the Jutogh Hill, 
and reaches Simla on the N. side, 
carried to the S. face of the Ridge 
by a tunnel. The gradient of 
nearly half the line is i in 33 ; 
there are 103 tunnels on it. 

The fares to Simla are Rs 18, 
Rs.io, and Rs.3, 4l annas. The 
journey up occupies seven hours ; 
down SIX hours. It is wise to 
put on warmer clothing, at least 
at Solon, whenever the upward 
iourney is made in the summer. 
It was under consideration to con- 
vert the line into one worked by 
electricity. 

Only hand-luggage can be taken 
into the carriages. 

(i) Kasauli is still usually 
reached from Kalka along a bridle- 
path, once the old Simla road. It 
can also be reached by the railway 
to Dharmpur (right column), and 
from there by a good and w^ell- 
graded road passing up under 
Sanawar. 

9 m. Kasauli. 4^ — This is a 
(‘antonment and convalescent 
depot on the crest of a hill over- 
looking the Kalka Valley, and 
6322 ft. above sea-level. The 
views from it are very grand and 
extensive. At Kasauli is the chief 
Pasteur Institute of India ; over 
10,000 cases have been treated 
since its opening. The Research 
Institute of India is also at 


DELHI TO SIML.^ India 

Kasauli. Ihe Kasauh Club is one 
of the best clubs in Northern India 
; The bridle-road continues on 
, through Kakarhatii , Saivi, and 
; Jutogh (see p. 289) to Simla (41 m.). 

3 m. off, across a dip, the road 
rises to Sanawar, which, however, 

' is not quite so high as Kasauli. 

1 Here is the Lawrence Military 
i Asylum. From it may be seen 
j Dagshai and Sabathu, and in the 
j far distance Simla The ground 
I was made over to the Asylum in 
j 1858, in fulfilment of the wish 
( of Sir H. Lawrence. There are 
I separate barracks for boys, girls, 

' and infants, and a chapel. ChiT 
j dren of pure European parentage 
1 take precedence as candidates for 
j admission ; orphans have the 
I preference over all others. The 
I boys qualify for the service of 
I Government in various Depart- 
j ments. 

I (2) The railway to Simla passes 
j first, 20 m., Dharmpur (D.B. good) 
j in the territory of the Maharaja 
j of Patiala, 4500 ft. The King 
I Edward Consumption Hospital 
i here is due to the initiative of 
Mr Malabari and the liberality of 
the Maharaja. From near here a 
road leads N. 10 m. to the summer 
j Cantonment of Sabathu, lying be- 
tween the old tonga and bridle- 
roads. The next station, 

24 m. Kumarhatti, serves the 
Cantonment of Dagshai. The rail- 
way now passes under the Barogh 
! Ridge by a tunnel of 3750 ft,, one 
j of the longest in India, and runs 
, high above the fine valley of the 
I Giri, famous for its mahsir fishing, 

) to the smaller Cantonment of 

! 28 m. Solon (H. and D.B.), in the 

; State of the Rana of Baghat, 4900 
I ft. It then turns N. and ascends 
j the slopes high above Sabathu and 
1 until it reaches a level run round to 

; 52 m. Tara Devi, passing under 

! the bold clifis of that peak. It 
j then vinds round the W. and N. 
j faces of J utogh Hill, the Tonga 
i Road, rising 1500 ft. up the S. 



ROUTK 15. JUTOGH — SIMLA 289 


face, through fine woods of pines 
and rhododendrons, and reaches 

55 m. Jutogh, the fifth hill Can- 
tonment served by it. Curving 
round the N. side of the hill the 
railway passes Summer Hill, and 
hy a tunnel to Simla, 60 m. on S. 
of the Ridge. It has been con- 
tinued 4^ m. farther East from the 
present terminus for goods traffic 
only. 

The station at Simla consists of 
the lofty (8048 ft.) mountain of 
Jakko to the E., which is con- 
nected with Observatory Hill and ' 
Prospect Hill on the W. by a long I 
Ridge. On the K. side of Jakko 
is Elysium Hill, so called in com- ' 
pliment to the sisters of Lord 
Auckland, who resided on it with 
their brother, and on the S. side , 
the long slope of Chhota Simla, j 
with the residence of the Lieu ten- I 
ant-Governor to the Pan jab at j 
Barnes Court, leads through that > 
quarter to the stream which drains j 
the amphitheatre formed by the 1 
Mahasu range, and to Junga, 
capital of the Keonthal State 
On the S. face of the Ridge, where 
it starts from the slope of Jakko, is 
the native bazar, and above this 
are the principal European shops, 
the Station Church, and the Town 
Hall. W. of these again are the 
Post Office and Telegraph Office, 
while below the main road, called I 
the Mall, are the District Courts, ' 
and Westward of them large blocks 1 
of Government of India offices, j 
including those of the Army Head- ] 
quarters, near the railway ter- i 
minus. Farther on again, on a , 
rocky summit, are the large offices ' 
of the Government of India, below 
which, on the S. side, is a hnk 
between the Mall and the Tonga 
Road, and on the N. side are the ' 
paths leading to Annandale (see | 
p. 290). Half a mile farther W. [ 
again is Peterhofi HiU, on which ' 
the old Government House stands, ; 
with the office of the Foreign i 
department of the Government of | 
India at its base. The Mall winds ' 

T 


I round tins Hill to Observatory 
! Hill, on which • stands Viceregal 
Lodge, the ordinary summer resid- 
; ence of the Viceroy. It was first 
! occupied on 23rd July 1888 by 
I Lord and Lady Duffenn during 
their last year of office. Since 
that year all the Viceroys have 
1 made it their summer headquar- 
ters, and various improvements 
have been effected. The latest 
addition Is the new Council Cham- 
; ber to suit modern requirements, 

I which was completed in the year 
1913-14, to form an extended 
wing of the main building. It is 
now capable of accommodating 
100 members, with galleries for 
the Press and spectators. Below 
the Chamber there are suitable 
committee and other rooms, and 
a spacious library. W. of Viceregal 
Lodge again is Prospect jf^ill 
(7140 ft.), with a grand view down 
to Sabathu and up to Kasauh , 
beyond it (3 m.) is Jutogh and N. 
of it is Summer Hill. There are 
many beautiful walks round Jakko 
and some of the other hills ; from 
, the top of Jakko, famous for its 
j fakir and the monkeys which 
1 haunt the temple, there are fine 
i views of Chor mountain (10,000 
i ft.) to the S.E., and of the snows 
when the weather is clear. One 
of the prettiest walks leaves the 
Mall near the S. approach to the 
U.S. Club (which stands over the 
Combermere ravine running down 
th^ W. face of Jakko to the S. 
side of the Ridge) , and winds 
down the lower slopes of the 
Chhota Simla spur as far as Bishop 
Cotton’s school. Snowdon, the 
residence^ of the Commander- 
in - Chief, the Walker Hospital, 
founded by Sir James Walker, 
C.I.E., and the Mayo Orphanage, 
are on the Mall on the X, side of 
Jakko, and the Convent schools 
are situated at the S.W. comem 
The land upon which Sirma 
stands was retained by the British 
Government as a sanatorium at 
the close of the Gurkha War in 
1815-16, when most of the sur- 



2-'jn ROUTE 15, (fl) 

rounding district was given or 
restored to various Native States. 
Lieutenant Ross erected the first 
residence, a thatched wooden 
cottage, in 1819. His successor, 
Lieutenant Kennedy, in 1822 
built a permanent house. • Other 
officers followed the example, and 
in 1 820 Simla became a settlement. 
In 1829 Lord Amherst spent the 
summer there, and from that date 
the sanatorium grew rapidly in 
favour with Europeans. Since 
the Government of Sir John 
Lawrence in 1864 Simla has been 
the summer capital for India. As 
soon as the hot weather sets in, 
<it the end of March, the Viceroy 
and the Officers of the Supreme 
Government quit Delhi for Simla, 
which is largely deserted in the 
winter," though the Army Head- 
quarter-' Offices now remain there 
all tile Near round 

Ihe cilstances at Simla, taken 
from Christ Church, are —Round 
Jakko, 5 in ; Boileauganj, 2^ m. ; 
to the end of Chhota Simla, 2 m.; 
round Elysium Hill, 2J m. 

Annandale is a fairly extensive 
plain, in a valley 1200 ft. below 
the Ridge on the N.W. of the 
station. The Racecourse sur- 
rounds it, and it contains Gardens 
and the Cricket Ground and some 
very fine deodar- trees. W. again 
of Annandale is the Glen, a charm- 
ing wooded valley with some 
grassy slopes and fine timber. 

Mashobra andMahasu (5 m. and 
8 m. from Simla) are pleasant 
places. The Viceroy has a 
summer retreat at the former. 
8 m. beyond it is Nal Dera, a 
fine wood of deodars with a 
picturesque timber temple, from 
which a glimpse of the Sutlej 
may be obtained 5000 ft. below, 

1^ magnificent view of the snows 

^ Mr E. J. Buck'is Sunla, Past and 
P/ei.ent^ may be c. i.isulted. 

^ The pvjpulation of Simla in midsummer 
wai 37,895 in 1911, and i-^ in midwinter about 
15 000 


DELHI TO .siml^ India 

E. of Kulu is obtained from 
Narkanda (9600 ft.) and from the 
Bhagi Forest beyond it. The 
stages of the route, each (except 
Mahasu) with a D.B., are as 
follows : — 


Name of .‘^trige 

M 

Viiuv’c Sea- lev 

Mahasu from Simla 

c 

S 200 fi. 

h'a^ii 

12 

S 200 ,. 

Theu:; 

'7 

770(j ,, 

Matiana 

a 8 

7720 

Narkanda 

39 

Q500 

Kotina? }i 

40 

UOO<i .. 


Three marches up the Sutlej 
Valley from Narkanda is Rampur, 
irom which the fine wool used in 
Rampur chadars used to come. 
70 m. beyond Rampur is Chini, 
E. of which two routes crossing 
the Shipki and Sholarang Passes 
lead to the uppermost course of 
the Siitlei and Gartok (14,200 ft. 
high). The track has been im- 
proved, and is a fairly passable 
route for trade with Tibet. 

The Sup eriyiten dent of Hill States 
has published a statement of rates 
of hire authorised in the case of 
Government transport on prin- 
cipal routes within the Simla 
District, (i) The rate for a mule 
IS R.i per stage, and 8 as. a-day 
for halts ; (2) for a riding-pony, 
Rs.3 per stage and R.i, 8 as. a day 
for halts ; (3) for a ricksha wr, 8 as. 
per stage — if taken more than one 
stage in one day, 4 as. per stage 
payable in addition — and 8 as. 
a day for halts ; (4) if coolies are 
taken more than one march out 
of Simla, half rates are payable for 
the return journey ; (5) if coolies 
or mules are engaged through a 
Chaudhn, the folloNving sums are 
due as- commission — (a) coolies, 
6 pies per stage, (6) mules, 2 as. 

I per mule for the entire journey. 

I On the Hindustan-Tihet Road, 

I from Simla to Rampur and on to 
Shipki, the distances are as fol- 
lows (5 m. or Ie.ss are half a 



SIMLA AND JUTOGH 






201 


ROUTE 15. TOUR‘D FROM SIMLA 

stage ; 6 m. or more are one ■ as an excursion in the hills. 


^tage) 


* Simla to Kufri (P. \V. D. , R. H. ) S 
Rufri to ^Fagu (D. K.) , . . 4 

K^guto Theog(D.B.) . . . 5 

'I heog to Matiana (P.R.) . . n 

\Iatianri to Narkaiida ( U.P.) . ii 

Xarkarjiia to Kotgarli (D.B.) m 

Rotgaili to Nirat(P,W !>., R.H ) to 
Nirat tu Ranipur ,, 13 

Uampur to Gaora , , 7 

Gaoi a to Sarahan ,, 10 

Sarahan to Taranda ,, 14 

Taranda to Paunda ,, 5 

I'auiida to Nachar ,, 5 

Xachar to Wangtu ,, 3 

Wangtu to Urni , 10 

Urni to Rogi 10 

Rugi to Paagi , lo 

Paa^ii to Rarang .... 3 

R.uang tojangi (P. W.lt , K.Tf ) 7 

jaagi to fCanam ... to 

K'aiam to Sla^ju . . .10 

'^lasu to Pou . . . . lu 

Poj to Namgia . . . . ii 

Xaiagia to Shipkl . . 10 


Siinia to Fagu the late is g a.s. 0 pl'“ 
< oolie if hired in Simla, ineliiding the 
fininihri s coniimssion 


ihere are other routes which can 
taken, viz, — (i) Narkanda to 
hjaranghati, 7 stages, 74 m. ; (2) 
Narkanda to Luri Bridge, 
stages, 13 m. ; (3) Simla to Ram- 
9 stages 2 halt - stages, 
96 m. (vit' Kotkhai and Jubbai) ; 
UJ Fagu to Rohru, 13 stages and 
I half - stage, 129 m. {via Mand- 
^ (5) Simla to Luri, 5 stages 
3 half 'Stages, 65 m. ; (6) Simla to 
Ralka, 5 stages, 58 m. ; (7) Simla 
to Kalka (vt(i Kasauli), 5 stages 
I half-stage, 53 m. ; (S) Simla to 
^"alagarh, 7 stages 4 half-stages, 
^3 m. ; (g) Simla to Bilaspur, 

3 stages 2 half - stages, 50 m. ; 
(10) Bilaspur to Kalka, 10 stages, 
86 m. 

There are R.H.s or U.B.s at 
only some of the places on these 
routes. A copy of the official 
statement of the rates, routes, 
<?tc., should be obtained and 
studied before starting. 

Another route from Simla to 
-^'fussoorie, 15 1 m., is often taken 


The foilo\\ing itinerary has been 
furnished by one who has taken 
it :~ 


Simla to Musaoorie (151 m,). 

Allies. Feet. 

Simla (7000 fr.) to Fasii ' (D.li.) 12 
Fagu to Sainj (B.) . . .8 4400 

Sainj to Kotkhai (B.) . . 13]- 5000 

Kotkhai to Jubbai (R.H.) . . 14 6<joo 

Jubbai to Arakot (F.B.) . , 17 3650 

Arakot to Tiuni (F. B.) . . 9 3900 

Tiuni to Kathian (F.B.) | "g j” 

Kathian to Alundali (F. B.) . 12 8200 

Alundali to Deoban (F.B.) . i-* 9000 

L>eoban to Chal.iata ' (I). B.) o boon 
(to bungalow ) 

Liiakrata to Churani. or Chaurani 

P.Liii ( 1 >. B,) . . .9 7200 

Churani Pani to Lakhuar {D.B.)i2 3700 

Cakiuvar to Mussoone . 15 6500 


All bungalows are furnished, hut croaker) , 
LLiticry, and cooking utensils must be taken 
for use in the bungalows other than those 
marked * (D. B.s) But in the forest 
bungalows there are only beds and othei 
1 furniture for two persons, and camp-beds, 

' etc., should be taken if the party consists of 
' more than twu- 


The road is passable for riding- 
I ponies all the way. Mules lor 
j transport (R.i per diem) are 
; obtainable through the Tahsildar 
, at Simla Cutcherry, where printed 
' rates can be seen. 

! Bungalows at Sainj, Jabbal 
I (Deora), and Kotkhai, which are 
; in Native Hill States, can be 
occupied on obtaining parwanas 
, from the Deputy- Commissi oner, 
Simla. Leave to occupy F.B.s at 
J Arakot, Tiuni, Kathian, Mundali, 
i Deoban, has to be obtained 
I from the Divisional Forest Officer, 
Chakra ta. 

; A number of routes from Simla, 
in the neighbourhood, to Kashmir 
I and in the Himalayas, will be 
, found in Appendix HI. of Mr E. J. 

! Buck’s Simla, Past and Present, 
j with useful “ Hints to Travellers 
I in the Himalayas and Simla Hills.” 



202 ROUTE 15 . (a) DELHI TO SIMLA AND BEYOND India 

Sultanpur, the old residence of i deur, and the forests abound in 
the Chiefs of Kulu, in the Kulu pheasants and other game. Far- 
Valley, is approached by way of I ther up amongst the high peaks 
Simla ; it is a long and somewhat sportsmen will find ibex and 
tedious expedition, but the scenery bears. The followTng are the 
rannot be surpassed for gran- marches : — 




Height 




Prom 

To 

abo\ e 
Sea- 
level. 

Accommodation. 

; r ouncry. 

j 

j DC- 
taucc. 



Feet 



M. 

Narkanda 

' Luhri 

2500 

G.B. Vil. on X. side 

1 Descent of ' 12?, 



of Sutlej ^ 

6500 ft. in 


Liihri 

Am 

4100 

G.B. and vil. Salva- 

Cross Sutlej, 





tioii Army Fruit 

gradual de- 

in all. 

1 



Farm and Mission. 

scent for 3 
m. and eas\ 
ascen t f 0 r 
64 m. 


Ant 

Khanag 

8^00 

G.B. and vil. 

Steep ascent 

0 

Khanag 

Shoja 

8 800 

G.B, Novil. 

Cross Jalori 

7 





pass at 
10,000 ft. 


1 Shoja 

Banjar 

5000 

G.B. and vil,, tahsil, 

Descent .ill 

ro4 




j t ha n a, hospital, 
school 

the way 


Banja r 

Larj 1 

3100 

Bungalow badly 

Grand gorges 

12 




1 placed, accomnio- 

of Bias, Sanij 





1 dation pooi , small 

and Tirthan 


1 

1 1 



1 vil. 

rivers ; de- 


1 

1 i 

Bajaura 



1 scent nearly 

1 all the way. 


! 1 

3600 

G.B. (with k h a n- 

1 Up Bias River. 

TT 




sama), post and 

j gradual 


j 



telegraph office , 

ascent 


j Bajaura 

Sultanpur 

3994 

G B., hospitals for 

i Gradual as- I 

9 ; 

i 



men and animals, 

cent up Bias 1 


i 



thana, tahsil, R.H. 

Rr.er 


i 

1 


i 

] 

and D.B. , post and 
telegraph office 




A'oft; — G. B. = goocl Dungalow. 


At Bajaura there is a stone 
temple, dedicated to Si\'a, with 
very fine carvings. Three niches 
in the outer wall contain bas-re- 
hefs representing Ganesh, Vishnu, 
and Parvati slaying the demons. 
On both sides of the entrance are 
figures, of the river goddesses 
Ganga (the Ganges) and Yamuna 
(the Jumna) (see Archieological 
Survey Report for 1909-10). 

At Sultanpur is the temple of 


Raghunath (another name foi 
Ram Chandar), which was built 
by Raja Jagat Singh of Kulu, vrho 
was a contemporary of Aurangzeb. 
On the occasion ol the Oasahra 
festival (see p. Ixxiv) all the idols 
of the valley are brought to 
Sultanpur to do homage to 
Raghunath. 

At Manah is the wood-carved 
temple of the goddess Harimba, 
or Hirma Devi, once the patron 



293 


ROUTE 1 5 . SHAHDAKA — MEERUT 


goddesb of tile Kulu Valley, to 
whom human sacrifices used to 
be offered only a few generations 
^^go. t 

One march N. of Sultanpur 
is Nagar, the headquarters of 
Kulu, and two marches [Manali 
(6300 ft.) and Kothi (8000 ft.)] 
farther on, through the lovely 
scenery of the ITpper Bias Valley, 

IS the Rohtang Pass (13,000 ft) 
into Lahaul. 

Delhi to Lahore rvJ Ghaziabad. 

4 m. Shahdara. 4J m. S. of thib 
and near the once flourishing 
market of Patpargarj is the held 
of the Battle of Delhi, in which 
Lord Lake defeated the Mabratta 
troops under M. Bourquin 011 
nth September 1S03 after a ; 
brief but severe tight. .\u obelisk 
on the spot commemorates the 
officers who fell in the engage- , 
ment. 

13 m Ghazidhad junction bta- 
tion.j^c From this point the 
K.I. Railway runs S.E. to Allaha- ' 
bad and Calcutta, and the Oudh 
and Rohilkhand Railway E. to , 
Moradabad (xoo m.) (see p. 

37 2.) Near tins place, then called | 
Chazi - ud - din - nagar, the small i 
force under Brigadier - General 
Archdale Wilson twice defeated ; 
the Meerut and Delhi mutineers 
on 30th and 3ibt May 1857. 

41 m. from Delhi, Meerut city 
station. 308 m. from Lahore. 
(By road, 42 m. to Delhi ; 81 m. to 
Aligarh ; 14 ra. to Sardhana ; 

^5' m. to Roorkee ; 32 m. to ; 

Bagpat, on the Jumna.) Petrol j 
‘ind motor accessories can be ! 
obtained from Messrs Graduate ■ 
Brothers, Dinshaw & Co., and 
the Provincial Motor Co. 

41 m. Meerut Cantonment in, 
iU.B.) (combined population ' 


116.227). This Cantonment is the 
headquarters of the 7th Army 
Division, and is known in history 
as the scene of the outbreak of 
mutiny of the Indian army (on 
Sunday, loth May 1857). This 
began ivith the 3rd Bengal 
Cavalry (eighty troopers of this 
regiment having been imprisoned 
the previous day with unnecessary 
degradation for refusing to receive 
cartridges of the old pattern), and 
was intended to ensure the murder 
of all the Europeans of the place 
while at evening service, but it 
miscarried by a happy accident, A 
number of officers and others were, 
however, murdered, and most of 
the houses of the S. Cantonment 
were burned ; and finally the 
mutineers (consisting of the 3rd 
Bengal Cavalry and the iith and 
20th regiments Native Infantry) 
marched off to Delhi unpursued. 
The Enghsli force in Meerut con 
sisted of the 60th Rifles, the Cara- 
bineers, and one battery of Royal 
Artillery, of Horse Artillery, and 
of Foot Artillery, and the native 
force of about 2500 men. Every 
one should read the story of the 
Mutiny of Meerut, as told in 
Colonel A, R. D. Mackenzie's 
Muti ny Mem oirs. 

The station is very extensive, 
measuring 3^- m. from the railway 
on the \V. to the pohee lines on 
the extreme E., traversed by the 
Mall, one of the finest in India, 
and 3 m. from where the Buland- 
shahr Road, on the S.. leaves the 
station, to the end of Church 
Street. The European Cavalry 
Barracks are of remarkable ex- 
tent. As in 1837, these and the 
other British Barracks lie to the 
N, of the Church, and the lines of 
the native troops to the S. 

St John’s Church, completed 
1821, in the Itahan style, was the 
first Church erected in the Upper 
Provinces of India. There are 
tablets in it to a great number oi 
officers who have been killed in 
action or have died in Upper India. 



India 


294 ROUTE 15, [b] DELHI TO LAHORE 


The large Cemetery, which hes 
to the N.W. of the Church, is 
divided into two parts — the new 
being marked by crosses and 
Enghsh tombs, the old by cupo- 
las and pyramids. The pillar, 
50 ft. high, was erected to Sir R. 
Rollo Gillespie, who subdued the 
mutiny at Vellore (p. 537). and 
fell in the Gurkha War. Sir D. 
Ochterlony also is buried here. 

The Site of the old Central Jail, 
(now abolished) is occupied by the 
Victoria Park, in which there is a 
9-hole golf-course. 

Temples. — The Suraj Kund, 
commonly called by Europeans 
the “ Monkey Tank," filled by 
water from the Ganges Canal, 
lies to the W. of the Jail. “It 
was constructed by Jowahir Mai, 
a wealthy merchant of Lawar, in 
1714. There are numerous small 
temples, dharmsalas, and sciti 
pillars on its banks, but none of 
any ^ote." The Baleswar Nath 
Temple is the oldest in the 
District, and dates from before 
the Muhammadan invasion. The 
Davga, in the Nan Chandi Mahal la, 
is said to have been built by 
Kutb-ud-din from the remains of 
a Hindu temple which he pulled 
down. The Davga of Shah Piv is 
a fine structure of red sandstone, 
erected about 1620 a.d. by Nur 
Jahan, in memory of a pious fakir 
of that name. The Jayni ^lasjid 
is said to have been built in 1019 
by Hasan Mahdi, Wazir of Mahmud 
Ghaznavi, and was repaired by 
Humayun. The Makbara of Salar 
Masa-ud Ghazi is attributed to 
Kutb-ud-din Aibak in 1191. 
There are two large Imamharas — • 
one near the Kamboh Gate and 
another in the Zabidi Mahalla — 
and an Tdgah on the Delhi Road, 
built in 1600. There is a mosque 
built by Nawab Khairandesh 
Khan in the Saraiganj. And 
besides those already mentioned 
there are 62 mosques and 60 


temples in the city, none of which, 
however, deserve any particular 
notice. 

Before reaching Sardhana the 
Ganges Canal, made by Sir Proby 
Cautley, is crossed. 

51m. Sardhana station (D.B.) is 
connected with Walter Reinhardt, 
known as Samru, of Walloon 
origin, who came out to India as 
a carpenter in the French Xavy. 
He became leader of a band of 
European deserters and sepoys, 
whom he brought to an unusual 
state of discipline ; and after serv- 
ing under several Native Chiefs, he 
joined one Gregory, an Armenian, 
who was high in the favour of 
Mir Evasim,^ the Nawab of Bengal. 
It was after the fall of Monghyr 
{p. 419) that he did his employer 
the base service of putting to 
death, on 6th October 1 763, all the 
60 English gentlemen and 100 
others, all prisoners, who had been 
collected at Patna (p. 49). He 
next joined the Bharatpur Chief, 
and from him finally went over to 
Najaf Khan, from whom he re- 
ceived a grant of the Pargana of 
Sardhana, then valued at 6 lakhs 
a year. He died at Agra in 177S, 
and his Begam, originally a 
Kashmir dancing-girl, was recog- 
nised as his widow, and succeeded 
to his domains. She became a 
Roman Catholic in 1784, and mar- 
ried a French adventurer named 
Le Vaisseau (1792), who, having 
shown himself incompetent, was 
induced to commit suicide. The 
revolt which he had caused was 
quelled by the aid of the English- 
man George Thomas, and by a 
son of Samru, Zafaryab Khan. 
At ills death {1802) the Begam 
gave her daughter in marriage to 
Mr D^xe, one of her officers, after- 
wards Colonel Dyce, and their son, 
Dyce Sombre, in 1S40 married 

^ iuUunate than Samru, .\Iir K.tsmi 

di^jd a beggar in Delhi, his last shawl being 
sold to cletray his funeral expenses. 



ROUTE 15 . SARDHANA — SAHARANPUR 2<j5 


Lady Mary Jervis, daughter of 
Earl St Vincent, afterwards Lady 
Forester. The Begam was a 
woman of shrewd ability, and, 
after keeping up a good under- 
standing with the British Govern- 
ment, her forces were received 
into British pay. She 'died m 
1836. The Begam was thus de- 
scribed by Major Thorn, who saw 
iier in 1806 : “ She appeared to 
l^e about fifty - three years of 
age, of middling size and fair 
complexion. She was the con- 
stant attendant at headquarters, 
‘Iressed in the European style wdth 
J hat and veil, sometimes riding 
in a palanquin, and at other times 
en a horse or an elephant ” 
^lenioir of the Wav in India) 
Eeene’s European Free-lances in 
hidia gives much interesting in- 
lorniation about the Begam and 
iier connections. 

E. of the town is a modern 
EngUsh mansion, built 1834, and 
called the Palace, with a grand 
Eight ot steps at the entrance. It 
stands in a garden of 30 acres, and 
•s commonly known as the Kotiii 
hilkusha. Within it were two 
framed inscriptions recording the 
charities of H.H. the Begam 
Samru in Sardhana, and portraits 
o^f the Begam and her friends, with 
George Thomas, General Ochter- 
lony, Sir C. Metcalfe, Lord Com- 
bermere, Colonel Boileau, General 
^ entura, her butler, etc. The 
house has lately been sold bv the 
family. 

The R.C. Cathedral, built by the 
Begam Samru, is outside the town 
on the S. It is an imposing build- 
ing, standing in an enclosure, sur* 
rounded by an ornamental wall. 
By the side entrance, on the right, 
1^ the Begam ’s white marble 
monument, made at Rome. Close 
by is the R.C College, a low 
masonry house, which was once 
the Begam 's own residence. It is 
intended for the instruction of 
native priests, and was endowed by 
the Begam. There are fifty pupils. 


I taught by the Italian priest and 
: his curate. 

Ill m. from Delhi, via Ghazia- 
bad, is Saharanpur junction sta- 
tion ^ (R., D.B.) Saharanpur is, 
by load, 77 m. to Chakrata, 43 ni. 
to Dehra Dun. From Saharanpur 
' the Oudh and Rohilkhand Rail- 
. way runs S.E. to Lucknow and 
Benares (see Route 20). (Popu- 
Kitiun 62,850, including a large 
railway settlement) , 

The town was founded in the 
reign of Muhammad Tughlak 
j about 1340, and named from Shah 
i Haran Chishti , whose shnne is still 
! much visited by jMuhammadans 
; and Hindus also . It was a favour- 
‘ ite place of summer resort of the 
I Mughal court. In the reign of 
Shah Jahan a royal hunting-seat, 

I called Badshah ^(lahal, was built 
' bv 'All iMardan Khan, the projec- 
i tor of the Eastern Jumna Canal. 

! The canal was neglected during the 
I decline of the Mughal Empire, and 
I was never of much utility till the 
! District came under British rule, 
i when Sir P. Cautley (1802-1871) 
i reconstructed it, and since then 
I cultivation has spread on every 
1 side. In 1 85 7 the station was sue- 
; cessfully held by the Collector, Mr 
j Spankie, with assistance allorded 
i liim from Ambala 
! There are an Anglican Church, 
consecrated in 1858, and an 
I American Presbyterian Church, 

' and a mission from that body. 

' An old Rohilla fort is used 
' as a Jail. .V handsome modern 
! mosque has been erected on the 
! plan of the Jami IMasjid at Delhi. 

I The main attractions of the place, 
j liowever, are the extensive Govern- 
I ment Botanical Gardens, which 
I atfamed their eenteuary in 10x7 as 
a public garden. Many valuable 
plants have been acclimatised 
there, and 464 various fruit-trees 
have been catalogued. The hor- 
ticultural training classes form 
j an important feature. Vegetable 
I seeds are produced in quantities for 
' distribution. The gardens have 



296 


India 


ROUTE 15. (6) DELHI TO LAHORE 


finally ceased to grow drugs for 
the Medical Department. Near 
the entrance by the N. gate is 
the Agricultural Garden, and be- 
yond it to the E. the Medi- 
cinal Garden ; beyond this to 
the S. is the Linnaean Garden. 
The main working divisions are 
the horticultural department, the 
Doab Canal Tree nursery, the 
nurseries for cuttings, bulbous 
plants, fruit-trees, and seedhngs. 
There are also a Hindu temple and 
a tank and wells in the gardens, 
and the S.E. gate leads to some 
sati monuments and chhatris. The 
most picturesque spot in it is an 
island shaded by clumps of bam- 
boo and surrounded by lotus. 
There is also a Kemount Depot. 

Saharanpur is celebrated as the 
station whence the Trigonometrical 
Survey of the Himalayas was 
commenced. The snowy peaks 
add much sublimity to the view 
to the N. 

162 m. from Delhi, via Ghazia- 
bad, is Amhala Cantonment 
station (p. 287). 

179 m. Rajpura junction station 
(D.B.). From here a branch 
line runs S.W. 16 m. to Patiala 
and 32 m. to Nabha, the capitals 
of the two Jat Sikh States so 
named. These two, with Jind, 
form the three Phulkian States of 
the Malwai Sikhs, who lie S. of the 
Sutlej, the Man j ha Sikhs occupy- 
ing the Bari Doab across that 
river. Patiala is the capital of 
the wealthiest and most populous 
State in the Panjab. The Palaces 
of the Maharaja in the Barahdari 
Gardens and at Moti Bagh, the 
Mohindar College, the Fort, the 
Temple of Mahakali and Rajeswari, 
the Hospital, Waterworks, and 
King Edward Memorial, are the 
chief buildings and sights of inter- 
est. The residential quarter is well 
laid out, and there are fine cricket 
and polo grounds. The present 
Maharajadhiraja, His Highness 
Lieut -Col. Sri Sir Bhupendra 


Singh Mahmdar Bahadur , G.CJ.E., 
G.B.E., succeeded his father 
in 1900. The Imperial Service 
troops, lurnished by the State, 
number 1800, of which a third 
are cavalry. All these troops were 
sent to the front to take part in 
the War! 

Jind, the second of the Phulkian 
States, gave loyal assistance to 
the British Government m 1857, 
and was similarly rewarded. The 
capital is Sangrur, on the Lud- 
hiana- Jakhal Railway. Its prin- 
cipal buildings are the Diwan 
Khana, the Barahdari, the State 
Library, Skating Rink, Ranbir 
Silver Jubilee Orphanage, Lady 
]\'Iinto Ranbir Girls’ School, and 
Victoria Golden Jubilee Hospital : 
also a D.B. His Highness the 
present Maharaja, Hon. Lieut- 
Col. Sir Ranbir Singh Bahadur, 
G.C.I.E., K.C S.I., received his full 
powers in 1899. 600 Imperial 

Service troops are supported by the 
State and fought for long at the 
front. Nahha town contains little 
of interest besides its four gardens. 
The present Maharaja is the son of 
the late Maharaja Colonel Sir Hira 
Singh, G.C S I., G.C.I.E., well 

known for his loyalty to the British 
Government, who died on 25th 
December 1911, after a rule of 
forty years. 

From Nabha the line runs 
W. to Bhatinda on the Rewari- 
Ferozepore line, and is crossed at 
Dhuri by the line from Ludhiana 
(see p. 2 qS) to Jakhal on the S. 
Panjab hne 108 m. 

195 m. Sirhind station The 
name of this town was formerly 
applied to a very extensive tract, 
which included the Ambala Dis- 
trict and the Native States of 
Patiala, Jind, and Nabha. In 
Cunningham’s ArchcBological Sur- 
vey ^ (ii. 205) a very interesting 
account of it will be found. It 
is the place where many Afghan 
Princes of Shah Shuja’s family and 
other Muhammadans of note are 
buried. 



ROUTE 15 

It is mentioned by Ferishta as 
the most Eastern possession of the 
Brahman Kings of Kabul. After 
they were conquered by Mahmud 
it became the frontier town of the 
Moslems, whence its name of 
Sirhind, or Sar-i-hind, “ Frontier 
of Hind.’' It must have been a 
place of importance as long back 
as 1 1 91 A.D., when it was taken 
by Shahab > ud - din Ghori, and 
besieged by Rai Pithora (Prithvi : 
Raja) for thirteen months. At 
that early date it had a separate , 
governor. i 

For the century and a half that I 
intervened between the accession i 
of Akbar and the death of Aurang- ; 
zeb Sirhind was one of the most 
Nourishing cities of the Mughal 
Empire. Many tombs and 
mosques are yet standing, and 
heaps of bnck ruins surround the 
old city for several miles. In 1 709 
the city was taken and plundered 
by the Sikh Chief Banda, who put 
the governor, Wazir Khan, to 
death in revenge for the murder 
of Guru Govind's mother and 
children. In December 1763 Sir- 
hind was taken and totally des- 
troyed by the Sikhs. Even to 
this day every Sikh, on passing 
through Sirhind, carries away a 
brick, which he throws into the 
Sutlej in the hope that in time 
the detested city will thus be 
utterly removed from the face of 
the earth. The finest and oldest 
building is the 


Tomb of Mir Miran. This is of 
'Tone, and is surmounted by a 
Urge central dome on an octagonal 
base, with a smaller dome at each 
of the four comers on a square 
base. Each of the four sides is 
pierced by a recessed doorway 
With a pointed arch covered by 
a second loftier and larger arch. 
Pie dead walls are relieved by 
^uares of blue enamelled tiles. 
The general effect is decidedly 
good, and altogether this tomb is 
one of the most pleasing and per- 


. SIRHIND 297 

j feet specimens of the later Patiian 
I architecture. 

I The Largest Tomb a plain 
I brick building. At the four cor- 
! ners are very small turrets, which 
; look mean beside the lofty central 
dome of 40 ft. diameter which 
crowns the building. The next 
tomb m size is another red brick 
building, attributed to Khoja 
Khan. The great dome is 36 ft. in 
diameter outside. This building 
is probably of the 15th century. 
There is a pretty Httle octagonal 
Tomb of Pirbandi Nakshwala (or 
the painter) It is on open arches, 
and IS surmounted by the pear- 
shaped dome of the Mughal period. 
The bod}" of the building is pro- 
fusely covered with paintings of 
flowers, and the roof with glazed 
tiles, arranged so that the melon- 
like divisions of the dome are 
marked by dark blue hnes, and 
the intervals by coloured tiles laid 
herring-bone fashion, beginning 
with yellowish pale green at the 
top, and ending vnth dark green 
at the bottom. The only mosque 
worth mentioning is that of Sudan 
j Kasai, to the N. of the present 
! town. The W. end has fallen 
down. The centre space is 
covered by a dome 45 ft. in 
diameter. 

The Haveli or mansion of 
j Salabat Beg is perhaps the largest 
! specimen of the domestic architec- 
i turc of the Muhammadans of the 
: Mughal Empire. It consists of 
two great piles of brick, each 60 ft. 

; sq. and about 80 ft. high, con- 
' nected by high dead walls. 

The great Sarai of the Mughal 
i emperors is to the S.E. of the 
city. It IS now used as a pubhc 
audience - hall by the Patiala 
authorities, and is called the 
A ynhhas. 

Beyond Sirhind the railwa\’ 
crosses the Great Sirbind Canal 
(opened in 1882), one of the largest 
irrigation canals in the world. It 
draws its water from the Sutlej 



India 


2<)8 ROUTE 15 . (h) DELHI TO LAHORE 


at Rupar (20 m. distant from 
Doraha), and, passing through 
Ludhiana and Patiala, with side 
branches to Nabha, Jind, and 
other native States of the Panjab, 
eventually irrigates the S. half of 
the Ferozepore District. At Rupar 
Lord Wm. Bentinck had a famous 
meeting with Maharaja Ran jit 
Singh in October 1831. 


233 m. Ludhiana junction (D.B.) . 
This IS a municipal town and head- 
quarters of a District of the same 
name. , (Population 44,170, of 
whom much the greater portion 
are Muhammadans.) It is a great 
grain market, and famous for its 
shawls made from Pashmina wool, 
also for the manufacture of Ram- 
pur chadays. It is situated near 
the S. bank of the Sutlej, 8 in. 
from the present bed of the river. 
Ludhiana is now an important 
junction on the North-Western i 
Railw’^ay for the three lines — Main 
Line, Ludhiana - Ferozepore, and 
Ludhiana - Dhuri - Jakhal. The 
Fort lies to the N.W. of the city, 
and under it is a Shrine of Pir-i- 
Dastgir, or 'Abdul Kadir Gilani. 

Ludhiana was founded in 1480 
by two Princes of the Lodi family. 
In 1809 General Ochterlony occu- 
pied it as Political Agent for the 
Cis-Sutlej States, and from 1834 
to 1854 the town was a military 
station. The Church and Public 
Gardens are to the S. of the city. 
There has been an American 
Presbyterian Mission here since 
1840. The Fort has been tempor- 
arily made over to the Salvation 
x\riny, who have opened an 
Industrial School called the “Sir 
Louis Dane Weaving School." 

There is a well - furnished 
D.B. not far from the railway 
station. There is also the N. 
India School of Medicine for 
Native Women at Ludhiana. In 
this school native women can ! 
qualify themselves for the post 
of sub-assistant surgeon. This is 
the only school of the kind in the 


Panjab. The school is managed 
by the Medical Missionary Society. 

Three of the great battles of the 
First Sikh War were fought be- 
tw'een Ludhiana and Ferozepore — 
viz., Mudki, Ferozeshah, and Ali- 
wal. The first two are noticed at 
p. 353. Aliw^al lies 16 m. W. of 
I Ludhiana, and must be reached 
I by riding. In the battle here Sir 
' Harry Smith, w'lth a force of 
; 10,000 men, defeated a body of 
20,000 Sikhs under Sirdar Ranjodh 
Singh, who had slightly worsted 
him a week previously at Bado- 
wal. There is there an Obelisk 
with the inscription, " Aliwal, 26th 
January 1846," repeated in Per- 
sian and Gurmukhi. 

A line of railway now runs from 
Ludhiana to Ferozepore ^p. 352). 

241 m. Phillaur. Beyond the 
Sutlej, crossed by a fine bridge, of 
which it was necessary to sink the 
foundations to an extraordinary 
depth, is the old Mughal Sarai and 
Sikh Fort of Phillaur, now used as 
a Police Training School. It was 
just saved from the mutineers in 
May 1857 by the despatch of 
British troops from Jfillundur, and 
was held successfully when the 
native regiments in the latter sta- 
, tion mutinied on 17th June. The 
! civil authorities in Ludhiana did 
I all in their power to prevent the 
! mutineers crossing the Sutlej, Mr 
j r. H. Thornton (C.S.I,), an Assis- 
' tant-Commissioner of a few weeks' 

I standing, cutting the bridge of 
1 boats, and Mr G, H, M. Ricketts, 
i C.B . the Deputy- Commissioner, 
boldly facing them with a few 
of Rattray’s Siklis ; but the 
mutineers got past them, and, 
a ttcr looting tlie Ludhiana station, 
went on to Delhi. 


265 m. Jullundur city .station. 


205 in. Jullundur Cantonment 
s^tion, * (D.B.). A municipal 
city. Cantonment, and head- 



ROUTE 15. JULLUNDUR — AMRITSAR 299 

•luarters of a Division and district. The Native State of Kapurthala 
Ihe city (station 3 m. farther N.) lies 15 m. S.W. Good road. From 
lias with the Cantonment a popu- the Kartarpur station to Kapur- 
lation of 55,182, of whom the thala is only 7 m. The latter and 
greater number are Muham- Hoshiarpur are now connected by 
madans. Anciently it was the railway with the Jullundur district, 
capital of the kingdom of Jalan- 

'ihar, or Tngarta, which, after the 2S8 m. to 291 m. Between East 
-Muhammadan invasion, survived Bank and Bias, the river of that 
m the Hill State of Kangra (see name is crossed. 

P- 305)* Hiuen Tsang, the Chinese 

pilgrim of the 7th century a.d., 317 m. AMRITSAR junction 

'kscribes the town as 2 m. in station ^ (D.B.), about J m. W. of 
circuit ; now two ancient Tanks are the city, A branch line from here 
all that are left of this. Under goes N.E. 67 m. to Pathankot 
the Hughal Empire it formed the for Dalhousie. etc. (see p. 304), 
capital of the country between the Another branch line from here 
Sutlej and the Bias. The modern , goes to Tarn Taran-Kasur, 
city consists of a cluster of wards, ■ Amritsar is a city with a popu- 
cach formerly surrounded by a lation of 152,756. It is the 
wall There is a fine Savai built wealthiest next to Delhi, and, after 
bv Karam Bakhsh. ^ that place and Lahore, the most 

populous city of the Panjab and 
the Church, 1 - m. W . the ^he religious capital of the Sikhs, 
artillery lines, erected in 1S52, is was founded in i577 Bsim 

along building without any tower. Das, 4th Guru of the. Sikhs, upon 

, a site granted by the Emperor 
Hie American Presbyterian Mis- ! Akbar around a sacred tank, from 
310 U maintains an excellent school. ' which the city takes its name, 
the Cantonment, winch is con- , Pool of Nectar.” Ahmad Shah 
sidered a healthy one, was estab- Durani destroyed it in 1762, blew 
hshed in 1846, and has an area of I up the temple, and defiled the 
7-2 sq. m. The garrison consists of j shrines. This wa^ the last occa- 
one British Infantry Regiment, | sion on which the temple was inter- 
one Native Cavalry Regiment, | tered with : it was rebuilt in 1764. 
two Native Infantry Regiments, ; After Ahmad Shah’s retirement 
and a Battery of Field Artillery. I the citv was divided amongst the 
Hiough a British regiment (the 1 various Sikh Chiefs, to each of 
bth King’s) and a battery of , whom was assigned a separate 
artillery were present here in May ward ; but it gradually passed 
^" 57 . and, though the Phillaur into the power of the Bhangi IVIisl, 
bort was secured by the former who remained supreme till 1802. 
^der the orders of Brigadier . In that year Ranjit Singh seized 
Bartley, no steps were taken by ; ft, and roofed the great shrine 
Ei'igadier-treneral Johnstone, who j with sheets of copper gilt; hence 
bad succeeded Hartley before the 1 it was called the Golden Temple, 
actual outbreak occurred, to dis- , He also built m 1805-09 on the 
the 36th and 6 1 St Regiments ot ^ s.W. the Fort of Govindgarh in 
Adtive Infantry, and when these ■ order to overawe the pilgrims, and 
wutmied on 7th June and started j surrounded the city with a massive 
Delhi, no pursuit of them was ! wall, the greater part of w'hich has 
ojQered until it was too late. i been demolished since the British 

I occupation. 

Ihe Public Gardens in the j The manufactures for which 
liuhtary Cantonment are well laid , ^Cmritbar is most famous are those 

i Pashmma, silk, and carpets. 



India 


■300 ROUTE 15 . ( 6 ) DELHI TO LAHORE 


(Paslumna is the name of any , 
fabric made from the fine wool of a j 
breed of goats found in and beyond | 
the Himalayas). Pashminas are 
either plain self-coloured cloths 
made up into lengths which can be 
cut as required, or are woven into j 
plain or embroidered shawls, some | 
of which are known as Rampur I 
chadars. This industry at one 1 
time employed 4000 looms, but it . 
has declined and has been sue- j 
needed in importance by the j 
carpet industry, also more flourish- j 
^ing some years ago than it is , 
now. In the carpet industry I 
Kashmiris and Panjabi Muham- ! 
madans are chiefly employed. 
There are four large carpet fac- ^ 
tones in the city and excellent 1 
carpets are turned out. The | 
manufacture of silk piece-goods is : 
still carried on to a certain extent- | 
Gold and silver thread, ribbon, j 
spangles, etc., for embroidery, are j 
also manufactured- Ivory carv- | 
ing is practised with considerable 1 
success, but is chiefly confined to , 
combs, paper-knives, card-cases, ] 
and toys. i 

The materials for these manu- , 
factures are, in a great measure, ] 
brought from all parts of Central j 
Asia, and the merchants w^ho j 
bring them — Kashmiris, Afghans, 
Nepalese, Bokhariots, Baluchis, 
Persians, Turcomans, Tibetans, 
Yarkandis, and others — may be 
seen in their national and highly 
picturesque costumes about the 
town, but more especially in the 
caravanserais. Besides the raw 
materials, they bring fine speci- 
mens of their own national manu- 
factures and embroideries, which 
may be purchased from dealers in 
this town as well as in the other 
chief cities of India. Amritsar is 
also the depot for piece-goods, 
copper, brass, etc., for the Central 
Asian markets. 

The city has tweh'e gates, of 
which the onl}' old one is that on 
the N. side facing the Rambagh. 
The direct road from the railway 
station to the Great Temple, called 


the Oar bar Sahib, in the centre of 
the town, passes two of the large 
above-noticed modern Sarais, one 
of the principal Carpet Factories, 
and several small mosques, and 
finally through a deep archw’ay in 
the centre of the municipal build- 
ings enters the Kaisarbagb, where 
stands a white marble statue of 
the Queen-Empress Victoria. Op- 
posite the statue is the Saragarhi 
Memorial erected by the Indian 
Army to the memory of the small 
detachment of Sikh soldiers who 
fell, in 1897, defending the fort of 
Saragarhi against overwhelming 
odds. At the entrance to the 
temple precincts, just beyond this, 
rises the Clock Tower, which over- 
looks the tank and the temple in 
the centre. The view from here is 
wonderfully picturesque. Before 
visiting the temple it will be neces- 
sary for the visitor to take off his 
boots and put on soft slippers pro- 
vided for him at the entrance on 
payment of a trifle. It is also 
necessary for a policeman to ac- 
company him, in accordance with 
Government rules. The Sacred 
Tank is surrounded by a tessellated 
pavement ^ of white marble 24 ft. 
broad, with ribs of black and 
brown, brought from Jaipur. It is 
470 ft. sq.- The buildings around 
it are called Bungahs, and are the 
hostels and chapels of great Chiefs 
who come to worship. To the 
N.W. of the tank is the Takht Akal 
Bungah Sahib (see p. 301), with a 
gilt dome. In the N.E. is the white 
bungah of the Chiefs of Patiala 
and Nabha, and beyond, to the 
E., are two pillars called the Ram- 
garhia Mnars. A local guide by 
Sirdar Sundar Singh gives full 
details. 

The Golden Temple, called by 
Sikhs and Hindus the Darbai 
Sahib, or the Harmandir, stands in 

^ -Along this pavement sit hawkers who 
sell beads^ and miniature spear-heads and 
■ luoits, which the Sikhs are now' content to 
wear in their turbans in place of the real 
v\ aapons. 

See Sir G. Birdwood'^ Industrial A>ts. 



ROUTE 15. 


AMRITSAR 


the centre of the tank on a pUtlorni 
05 ft sq. It is approached from 
beneath an archway on the W. side 
by a white marble causeway 204 ft. 
long, flanked on either side by 
gilded standard lamps. Beneath 
the arch is a Memorial of the work 
of the 35th Sikh Regiment in the 
<'Iiitrdl Expedition 

Except for the lower part of the 
walls, which are of white marble, 
the whole of the building is en- 
cased in gilded copper, inscribed 
with verses from the Granth Sahih, 
written very clearly in the Panjabi 
character. It is entered by four | 
door^vays, one on each side, with ; 
doors plated with silver finely i 
wrought. That on the N. side is { 
the only one through which EurO' 
peans may pass. The scene within 
IS most picturesque. The walls 
are richly gilded and painted 
\vith representations of flowers, 
etc. On the E. side is seated the 
high priest, either reading from a 
copy of the Granth Sahib on an 
ottoman before him, or waving a 
Giaitri over it, wdnlst pilgrims 
throw offerings of cowries, money, 
or flowers into a sheet spread in 
the middle of the floor to receive 
them, and then taking their places 
around it, sit down and join in 
chanting verses of the sacred 
volume to the music of stringed 
instruments. 

Visitors who are garlanded and 
presented with cups of sugar are 
expected to make in return a small 
donation of one or two rupees 
On the roof above there is a small 
but richly decorated Shish Mahal, or 
paviUon, where it is said the Guru 
used to sit. The brooms kept to 
sweep it out are made of peacocks' 
leathers. 

Returmng to the gatewa> . 
which has doors covered with 
massive silver plates, a staircase 
Will be found to lead up to the 
in which is a large chest. 
J-his place has thirty-one pillars or 
poles of silver 9 ft. long and 4J in. in 
diameter, and four large ones. In 
the chest are kept three gilt maces. 


301 

a panka, two chauris, all with 
gilt handles, a canopy, weighing 
10 lb. of pure gold, set with ^ 
emeralds, rubies,, and diamonds, 
a pendant of gold, a coloured plan 
of the temple, and a magnificent 
diadem of diamonds with strings 
of pearl pendants, which used to 
be worn by Nau Nihai Singh. 
There is also a sort of gilt arch 
6 ft. high. All these are used 
when the Granth is carried in 
procession. Permission to visit 
the Treasury must be obtained 
from the Manager of the Golden 
Temple. 

On the VV. side of the small 
square facing the gateway is the 
Akal Bungah, with its gilt dome. 
This temple was built in the time 
of Arjan, the fifth Guru. A low 
staircase leads to a room with a 
projecting window. In the room 
IS a gilt ark, on the floor of which 
are a number of things covered 
with a cloth ; this is partly re- 
moved, and a large sword is taken 
out and shown. It is a falchion 
4 ft. long and widening towards 
the end. It is said to be the sword 
of Guru Govind ; a mace also is 
shown, which was wielded by one 
of the Gurus. In the ark are also 
the vessels for the initiation ol 
new members into the Sikh 
brotherhood. 

On passing round to the S. side 
of the enclosure, the Temple 
Garden, Guru ka Bagh, is reached. 

It IS 30 acres in extent, and con- 
tains pomegranate, orange, and 
other fruit-trees, a tank called 
Kaulsar, and several small pa- 
viUons. At the S. end of the gar- 
den is the picturesque Baba Atal 
Tower. The lower room is richly 
painted with frescoes representing 
scenes from the life of Guru Nanak, 
a good and interesting example 
of modem Sikh art. A staircase 
leads up to seven galleries ; there 
is then a wooden ladder which 
ascends to an eighth ; the entire 
height of the building is 131 ft. 

This to'wer is dedicated to Atal 



302 ROUTE 15 . ih) DELHI TO LAHORE India 


Rai, the younger son of Guru Har | 
Govind, who is said to have been ! 
reproved by his father for raising ! 
the deceased child of a widow to 
life, on the ground that the super- , 
natural powers ought to be dis- 
played in purity of doctrine and , 
holiness of hfe, and not in miracles. 
Thereupon Atal Rai said that as , 
a Ufe was required and he had ' 
withheld one, he would yield up | 
his own, and so lay down and died . ^ 

Outside the Temple enclosure on ■ 
the E. are the lofty plain Ram- 1 
garhia Hinars. The one to the ! 
N. may be ascended. At the top , 
there is a good view to the N.W., , 
taking in a white temple to Siva 
at the extremity of the city, built 
by Sardar Tej Singh. To the 
N.E., at I m. oh, St Paul's Church i 
is seen peeping out among woods, j 
close to the D.B. Govindgarh ; 
Fort appears to the S.W. 

The return journey may be 
made by the Rambagh Gate oi * 
the city. To the left is the 

mosque" of Muhammad Jan, with 
three white domes and slender 
minarets. Farther to the N. is the 
Idgah; and close to it is the 
mosque of Khan Muhammad. In 
front of the gate, and just 1 
across the railway, are the pretty > 
Rambagh Public Gardens which i 
are about 40 acres in extent. In j 
the centre is a pavilion in which 
Ranjit Singh used to stop when he , 
came to Amritsar. Beiore enter- 
ing the gardens the Civil and | 
Municipal Hospitals are passed. } 

The Fort of Govindgarh is a 
short distance to the S.W. of the 
city. It is usually garrisoned with 
a company of Artillery and a com- 
pany of British Infantry. It was 
completed by Ranjit Singh in 1809, 
the fortifications being traced by 
the French officers in his service. 

In May 1857 it was secured by 
British troops sent over from 
Lahore in ekkas. French names 
are still on the walls — e.g., Ronde 
de I'Est. 

Amritsar is within the Lahore 
Diocese and there is an English 


Church in the Civil Station and 
usually a resident chaplain. There 
is also a Roman Catholic Church. 
The principal Mission is that con- 
ducted by the Church Missionary 
Society. This Society maintams 
High Schools for Boys and Girls 
and a Hospital. The Zenana Bible 
and Medical Mission maintains 
the St Catherine’s Hospital for 
Women. 

2^ m. W. of Amritsar station, 
on the Grand Trunk Road, is the 
Khalsa College, which was founded 
m 1882. This is the National Col- 
lege for Sikhs and it is affiliated to 
the Pan jab University m Arts and 
Science. It has a large staff, in- 
cluding an European Principal 
and two European Professors, and 
accommodates about 700 students, 
most of whom are residents in the 
College hostels. The Khalsa Col- 
lege was honoured by a visit from 
the Prince of Wales, now His 
Majesty King George V , on the 
iith December 1905. 

The other educational institu- 
tions in the station are the 
Government High School ; the 
Muhammadan Anglo- Oriental High 
School ; the Hindu Sabha High 
School ; the Pandit Baij Nath 
High School ; the Dayanand Anglo- 
Vedic High School ; and the 
Government Clerical and Com- 
mercial School. 

Government maintains a Civil 
Hospital under the charge of a 
Civil Surgeon. The Amritsar Mu- 
nicipality also maintains a Hospital 
and Dispensary, and is building 
the Princess of Wales’ Hospital, of 
which the foundation-stone w'as 
laid by Her Excellency Lady 
Chelmsford on the i6th April 1917. 

The Amritsar Municipality has 
now given the city a good water- 
supply . A sewage-disposal scheme 
has also been completed and an 
Electric Power-station built. 

Amritsar is the headquarters of 
the Deputy-Commissioner of the 
Amritsar District. 

The principal fairs held here are 
at the Baisakhi festival in April 



ROUTE 15. TARN TARAN- PATHANKOT 


;uid at the Diwah festival in Nov- 
ember, both at Amritsar city. 
They are primarily religious fairt. 
but gradually came to be utilised 
for the buying and selling of agri- 
cultural stock, and now are the 
fairs best known and most iargeh- 
nltended in the province. 

14 m. to the S. of Amritsar is 
Tarn Taran, (D.B.), a place very 
holy to the Sikhs, through which 
a line runs to Patti and Kasur 
fP- 353)* 

The Temple and Tower are 
situated on the E. side of a 
magnificent tank, which is kept full 
oi water from the Bari Doab 
I'anal. This tank was made by 
3faharaja Ranjit Singh when he 
built the temple. Boots must be 
taken off and cloth slippers put 
on before descending into the 
enclosure - The lower room of the 
temple has been handsomeh^ 
painted with representations of 
trees, while the outside walls have 
paintings of gods and goddesses. 
The room has a corridor round it, 
on the S. side of which is the 
Granth, enveloped in silk wrappers, 
and fanned by an official with a 
chauri. 

This place was the residence of 
the Guru Arjan, and is older than 
Amritsar ; unhke the temples at 
that city, it has no writings on 
the walls. There is a small 
pavilion with open sides on the 
roof. The tank is said to possess 
miraculous powers to cure the 
lepers who can swim across it. 
At its N. corner is a tower built 
by Nau Nihal Singh. 

The neighbourhood is famous 
as the stronghold of the Man j ha 
Sikhs, and the former recruiting- 
ground for their army. There is 
a leper asylum outside the town, 
and a suburb inhabited by those 
infected with the disease, from 
which it is said the Guru Arjan 
himself suffered. 


303 

At Amritsar passengers for 
Dalhousie, Chamba, Kangra, and 
iJharmsala change on to the 
Amritsar - Pathankot Raihvay ; 
and passengers for Tarn Taran 
change on to the .Amritsar- 
liihti Raihvay. 

24 m. Batala 

47 m. Gurdaspur, headquarters 
of a district. 

16 m. from Gurdaspur, and con- 
nected by a driving - road, is 
Ralanaur (district R.H.), where 
is the monument to indicate the 
site of the buildings and gar- 
dens erected by the Emperor 
Akbar to mark the place \vhere he 
was proclaimed Emperor and 
I crowned on receipt of the news of 
his father’s death. 7 m. farther 
on is the town of Dera Nanak, 
where the celebrated Sikh Guru, 
Baba Nanak, lived and preached. 
The golden temple here is very 
beautiful and well worth a visit. 

9 m. N.W. of Gurdaspur is 
the Trimmu Ghat of the Ravi, 
where Brigadier-General Nicholson 
defeated the Sialkot mutineers 
(p. 323) on 12th July. Four days 
later the remnants of them were 
attacked on an island in the nver, 
and all destroyed or captured. 
General Nicholson had been 
obliged by events to return from 
Phillaur to Amritsar with the 
Movable Column, having dis- 
banded the Native Infantry regi- 
ments with it at the former place 
and the 59th Regiment at the 
latter. 

67 m. Pathankot terminus sta- 
tion (R.. D.B., and R.H.). 8 m. 

to the N,, on the high bank of 
the River Ravi, is the picturesque 
Shahpiir K^andi Fort, dating back 
to the 1 6th century, with a 
R H. in one of the old towers. 
The Rajas of Pa than often rebelled 
against the Mughal Emperors. 
Driven back in the hills, they 



India 


ROUTE 15, [})) DELHI TO LAHORE 


3«4 

settled at Nurpur, but still re- 
tained the clan name Pathanias. 
From Pathankot tongas proceed 
direct to Dalhousie, 52 m., or the 
journey can be broken at Danera, 
28 m., where there is a hotel. 
Special tonga, jRs.33 ; seat in the 
mail tonga, Rs.15, as 8 ; motor-car 
to Danera, Rs.30. 

Dalhousie is a charming hill 
station and sanatorium, with a 
military Cantonment at Baiun 
(5500 ft.) and mihtary locations at 
Ticca Spur, Mankot, and Banikhet. 
The population in the winter of 
igii was 938 ; and in summer 
3952. From Dalhousie a visit may 
be paid to Chamba (D.B.), the 
capital of the Hill State of the same 
name, ruled by one of the most 
ancient Rajput houses of India.^ 
The scenery is very fine, especially 
between Dalhousie and Chamba 
(20 m. distant across the Ravi), 
where the summer road passes at 
an average height of 8100 ft. for 
6 m. through one of the most 
beautiful forests in the world. 
At II m. from Dalhousie, 9 m. 
from Chamba, is the “ Marg,” or 
green open space of the hamlet of 
Khajiar (6400 ft., D.B. and R.H.), 
a circle of green sward having a 
perimeter of i m., with a lake in 
the middle, in the midst of magni- 
ficent dark cedar forests (well 
worth a visit), imder the slopes of 
Dain Kund (9160 ft.) from the 
summit of which a most splendid 
semicircle of snow-capped heights ' 
is to be seen — one of the finest 
views in the world. The lower or 
winter road is 21 m. (Chil, 12 m., 
and 9 m. to Chamba.) 

The Chamba State, which com- 
prises the Upper Ravi and part of ] 
the Chenab Valley, is very rich in 
ancient remains Chamba is a 
most ItaUan-looking town, on a 
plateau about 400 ft. above the 

1 See Chamba State Gazetteer (Lahore, j 
fOTo), Section B. , History, pp. 41-117. | 

- See Antiquities 0/ Chamba State I 
(Calcutta, 1911), by Dr J. Ph. Vogel of the j 
Archseol. Survey of Indi.a. 


river, with old temples, well worth 
seeing ; it is lit by electricity, with 
electric fans in all public buildings. 
Sir Bhuri Smgh, K.C.S.I., C.I.E., 
is the present Raja of Chamba ; 
the Commissioner of Lahore is the 
Political Agent An interesting 
collection of ancient inscriptions, 
pictures, weapons, and other anti- 
quities is contained in the State 
Museum, founded by the Raja Sir 
Bhuri Singh in 1908 and named 
after him [Ilhtstrated Catalogue, by 
Dr Vogel, Calcutta, 1909). On the 
N. end of the Mai dan (here called 
Chaugan) is the hospital named 
after Raja Sham Singh (died 1904 
A.D.), and on the other end the 
Residency used for the accommo- 
dation of distinguished visitors. 
Opposite the Museum are the 
Presbyterian Church and the 
Afission House of the Church of 
Scotland Alission. 

Intending visitors to Chamba 
should bear in mind that the place, 
being situated in the Ravi Valle>', 
is very hot during June- August. 

From Chamba there branch off 
roads to Kashmir, to Pangi (over 
the Sach Pass), to Barmoar, and 
on to Chamba Lahoul, and Kulu 
Lahoul. There are D.Bs. at 
Khajiar (closed for some months 
in the winter) and at Chamba. 
Travellers desiring information, as 
to routes, coolie hire, and accom- 
modation can apply to the 
Chamba State Vakil, Dalhousie, 
or to the Assistant Commissioner, 
Dalhousie. 

Dharmsala (D.B.), the headquar- 
ters of the Kangra District, is 
reached (50 m ) by a good metalled 
tonga road from the railway 
station at Pathankot. As far as 
Nurpur (16 m.) the country is 
surveyed for an extension of the 
railway from Pathankot ; the 
road onwards passes through very 
pretty, fertile, and well-watered 
country. At Nurpur^ (ancient 

^ On the ruined temple in the fort, sec 
Arch. Survey, Ann. Rep., 1904-5, pp. 

X 10-120 



ROUTE 15. KANGRA — SULIANPUR 305 


fort, with ruined templej, Kotia 
(29 m.), and Shahpur (40 m.), 
there are D.Bs. The new Civil 
Station of Dharmsala, erected 
since the earthquake on the 
site of the old Gurkha Canton- 
ment, at a height of about 4500 ft., 
IS reached at 56 m. Thence the 
load IS unmefalled and leads to 
the upper station and Gurkha 
Cantonment, which lies at an 
elevation of about 5500 ft. This 
IS in the midst of fine forest trees, 
and overshadowed by the great 
rock wall of the Dhanla Dhar, 
which rises to 16,000 ft. Above 
this, at Dharmkot, are the sum- 
mer quarters of the American 
United Presbyterian Mission. In 
the centre of the upper station are 
die ruins of the Church of St John 
m the Wilderness, which, with 
fhe entire station, was destroyed 
m the earthquake of 1905 ; it 
is now being rebuilt. In the 
shurchyard is the tomb of the 
Karl of Elgin and Kincardine, 
\iceroy 1862-3, who died in the 
station. This tomb was very 
badly damaged in the earthquake, 
but has since been restored. 

Above the upper station one of 
tile main spurs of the Himalayas 
rises steeply to a height of 16,000 
h to 17,000 ft. The scenery is 
grand and imposing, the great 
granite mountains appearing 
almost to overhang the station, 
while the view S.E., S., and S.W., 
over the rich and lovely Kangra 
Valley and the Sewaliks and inter- 
'ening foot-hills, fading from 
purple to mauve in the distance, is 
one of extreme beauty. The River 
Bias, which runs tiirough the 
District, and is renowned for its 
uidhseer fishing, can be seen when 
atmosphere is clear. 

15 m. S. Kangra (2500 ft.), 
s-uciently known as Xagarkot, 
occupies both slopes of a hill over- 
lookmg the Banganga torrent. 
The name Kangra properly be- 
longs to the fort, which crowns a 


precipitous rock, rising sheer above 
the Banganga, and dominates the 
whole surrounding valley. The 
temple of Devi Bajresn, on the 
northern declivity, ranks amongst 
the oldest and most wealthy 
shrines in India, but both it and 
the fort were destroyed in the 
earthquake : the temple has been 
rebuilt : the fort is still in 

rum.'D This temple is men- 
tioned in Fenshta’s account of the 
fourth invasion of India by Sultan 
Mahmud, a.d. 1008, who sacked 
it, and again in a.d. 1360 it was 
plundered a second time by the 
Emperor Firoz Tughlak. The 
headquarters of the District were 
removed from Kangra to Dharm- 
sala in 1853. 

Some 21 m. S.E. ol DhannsaU 
IS the pretty little settlement ol 
Palampur, the centre of the Kan- 
gra tea plantations of io,ooo 
acres, y m. E. again are the 
interesting temples of Baijnath 
(see Fergusson's Ind, Aych,^ i, 
297-301), and from here a road 
leads to Sultanpur in Kulu (p. 292). 
90 m. from Dharmsaia, 21 m. S.E. 
of Kangra, is the famous temple 
of Javala - Mukhi, picturesquely 
built up against a rocky^ cliff, from 
a cleft in which an inflammable 
gas issues. This was once one ol 
the most popular Hindu shrines 
in all N. India, and the autumn 
fair is still sometimes attended by 
30,000 people. 

Sultanpur (D.B.j, lucaliy known 
as Kulu or Kulu shahr t'city ot 
Ivulu ”), is the principal village 
in the Kulu subdivision of the 
Kangra District. The Chiefs of 
Kulu, of whom the Rai of Rupi 
IS the representative, had their 
residence here before the country 
was acquired by the Sikhs, from 
whom the British Government took 
it over. It is approached either 
from Simla or from Palampur in 
the Kangra District. The journey 
from Simla is a long and tedious 
expedition, entailing a trying 


U 



job 


ROUTE 15 . {b) DELHI TO LAHORE 


India 


descent from Xarkanda on the 
Simla -Tibet road into the Sutlej 
Valley, and a stiff climb o\'er the 
Jalori Pass (10,000 it.). 

The marches from Simla to 
Sultanpur will be lound on pp. 
200-292. 

At Bajaura, 9 m. from Sultanpur, 
is a fine Hindu temple, which is 
being renovated. Xagar. the head- 
quarters of the Subdl^ isional 
Officer of Kulu. is 13-^ m. N. of Suh 
tanpur, and two marches (Manali, 
12 m , 6300 it. ; and Koti, 6| m., 
8000 It. f farther on, through fine 
scenery, is the foot of the climb 


over the Rohtang Pass (13,040 ft.) 
into Lahaui. 

The road from Luliri to Jibhi 
has been realigned, and passes 
through Am, a settlement of the 
Salvation Army where various 
industries, agricultural and others, 
are taught by the resident officers. 
IJiis road crosses tlie Jalori Pass 
at a slightly lower level than 
the present road. The pass is 
closed b\' snow for three months 
in the year. 

The route from Palampur is as 
follows : — ' 


!' ! ij I n ' T o 


i'cilaiiipur, I Haijnath , 

rfriijiKith . I Dhclu 

Dhelu . j IhatiMgn . 
I 

jhatingri . | ILidwcini . 

Badwani . Karaun . 


Karaun Sultanpur 


j Accomniockuion. 

1 

; butigaluw 

] Kangra Di^u ict. 
In Mandi .State. 
Bad bur.galov. 

In Mand? State 
Good bungalow . 
vSniall Bungalow . 
In Kulu Small 
bungalow. 

In Kulu. 


Country. 


I nduI.il'P.g. 

I )ieai y. 

L lat and iheii j apid 
ascent. 

Cross valley. 

Cross \allev and 
then cross ifhubu 
Pass (9480 ft.). 
Steep descent. 


miles. 

9 

13 

J4 


In winter the Bhubu Pass is | 
closed by snowy and the road to j 
Kulu lies over the Dulchi Pass ; 
(7000 It.). This road leaves the 
Dhelu- Jhatingri road not far from 
Jhatingn, and passes through 
Hurla, Drang, and Kataula, all in 
Mandi State, and, crossing the | 
Dulchi Pass, drops on to the ; 
Simla- Kulu road at Bajaura 

There is good small - game 
shooting’ in Kulu m the winter, 
and the country holds bear (red 
and black), ibex, buryheL thar, and 
ghoral. Leopards are numerous. 
These and black bear are regarded 
as vermin, and a rew^ard is given 

t ^ee Colonel 1 jacket Sporzsjhais 
Manual in Kulu^ I^ahaul^ and Spiti. A 
booklet of information for tra%eners, con- 
taining the latest rules aad hints regarding 
travelling, has been published, and may be 
obtained for a small charge from the Assist- 
ant-Commissioner, Kulu 


for each one destroyed. To shoot 
big game, other than vermin, a 
licence, costing Rs.20, must be 

procured. The number of licences 

is strictly limited, as is also the 
number of head that may be shot 
by a licence-holder. Licences are 
issued by the Divisional Forest 
Officer, Kulu : they co\ er the 
wffiole of Kulu, Sarij, Lahaui, 
j Spiti and Bara Bangahal. As the 
I population is scattered, there is 
; often some difficulty in getting 
' labour and supplies ; travellers 
and sportsmen should give ample 
I notice of their vdsit to the Assist- 
' ant-Commissioner, Kulu, wffio will 
! send them detailed information 
I regarding supplies, prices, rates of 
coolie hire, etc. Much trouble is 
I saved by travelling wdth mules to 
, carry luggage, and on no account 
should travellers who have entered 





CaJitonmenf raltnttwi j-eflon 










ROUTE 15. 


LAHORE 


30' 


the country with mules dismiss 
tlieni there unless they are making 
a long stay. The Kuiu A’alley is 
lamous for its fruit orchards, 
where the finest apples and pears 
are grown for export to the plains 
of India and as far as Aden and 
Burma. An ettort is being made 
to stock the KuIu streams with 
trout. A hatchery has been estab- 
Iwhcd at Nagar '1 he Kaiu trout- 
rearing has been very successful, 
and the trout now* breed wild 
in the Bias. Angling-licences are 
issued by the Assistant-Commis- 
sioner, Kuiu, for Rs.15 per month, 
and Ks. 35 for the season. The 
report of an angler last year was 
most encouraging : the feed is 
abundant, the trout are numerous, 
wcU-grown, and good fighters. 
Dry-fly fishing is, however, im- 
possible. 

34G 111. from Delhi is Lahore 
Cantonment E., formerly Meean 
^Icer station. 

34c> m. LAHORE junction 
station 4c (K. good). Lines run 
N.W. to Rawal Pindi and Pesha- 
w*ar, and S.W. througli Sind to 
Karachi. The raihvay workshops 
are \ery extensive, covering 1500 
acres, and employing over 11,500 
men. 

If only a tew hours can be 
devoted to Lahore, a selection ol 
the objects of greatest interest ma> 
be made from the following route . 
The Mosque of Wazir Khan, tht' 
Port, and the Badshahi Mosque 
should be seen in any case. Then 
drive to the Queen’s Jubilee Statue 
at the cross-roads (Charing Cross), 
and driving E. along the Mall, 
passing (in the order in w-’hich they 
arc named), right, the Masonic 
Lodge, a line edifice, recently 
built, the entrance to the Law- 
rence Gardens ; left, Nedou's 
Hotel ; right, the combined 
Lawrence and Montgomery Halls ; 
left, GoTemment House, the resi- 


dence of tile Lieutenant - Gov- 
ernor ; left, the Panjah Club and 
Aitchison or Chiefs’ College ; 3 m. 
farther on is the desolate old 
Meean Meer Lahore Cantonment. 
Driving along the Mail W. from 
Channg Cross, the route passes 
several good shops ; left, R.C. 
Cathedral ; left. Lord Lawrence's 
StatUG ; right, the Cathedral ; left 
the Chief Court and the Account- 
ant - General’s Office ; several 
Banks, and then, right, the Tele- 
graph Office ; and left, the Pest 
Office. Kear a shght turn in the 
road, on the left, are the Market, 
the Central Museum, the Jubilee 
Institute and the Mayo School of 
Art, and the Town Hall, and 
beyond, tlie entrance to the 
Anarkali Gardens ; the tomb ol 
Anarkali and the principal Panjab 
Government Offices he to the 
of these, the rest of the offices and 
the Senate Hall of the University 
being situated opposite to the 
Museum Turning N. from the 
Gardens the Government College io 
passed, right ; left, Deputy Com- 
missioner's Court, Model School and 
Government School. Farther E. 
IS the King Edward Memorial 
Hospital. (Th)s was tlie old iNIayo 
Hospital. It lias been vastly im- 
proved and extended, at a cost of 
above 6 lakhs of rupees.) Pro- 
ceeding round the W. side of the 
city the Cemetery is passed left, 
and a little farther on the road 
divides — that left leading to 
Shahdara (p. 321) across the 
bridge of boats, and that right 
passing the Badshahi Mosque, 
the Fort, and the X. of the city to 
the railway station. 

In the new Public Buildings ol 
Lahore an attempt iia.s been made 
to adopt Hindu and Muhamma- 
dan styles of architecture to the 
requirements of modern buildings. 
The success of these was largely due 
to the late Mr J. L. Kipling, C.I.E., 
Principal of the School of Art ; 
R. B. Ganga Ram, C.I.E., Ex- 
Engineer ; and to the present 



India 


308 ROUTE 15. (6) DELHI TO LAHORE 


Principal of the Art School, Sardar j 
Bahadur Bhai Ram Singh, M.V.O. | 

Lahore ^ is a municipal city, , 
capital of the Pan jab headquarters | 
of the Pan jab Government, the i 
seat of an Episcopal See, and head- 
quarters of a Division and District ' 
of the same name (population, witli j 
Mian Mir, 228.687. Lat. 31^ 34^ 
]ong. 74"^ 21'). Tradition says that 
Lahore was tounded by Loh, the 
elder son of Rama ; no men- 
tion of it, however, is made by 
Alexander's historians, and no 
Graeco-Bactnan coins are found 
among the rums. It seems to 
have been governed by a family of 
Chauhan Rajputs, from whom 
it was wrested by Mahmud of 1 
Ghazni, whose famous slave, i 
Malik Ayaz, was Governor here. 
It did not, however, attain to 
magnihcence till the rule of tlic 
Mughals. Akbar enlarged and 
repaired the fort and sur- 
rounded tile town with a wall 
(which has been demolished) 
Jahangir often resided at Lahore, 
and during his reign Arjan Mai, 
Guru of the Sikhs, compiler of the 
Adi Gyanth, died in prison here. 
'I'he mausoleum of Jahangir is at 
Shahdara, 4 m. from Lahore (bee 
p 321). Shah Jahan built the 
palace of Lahore, and Aurangzeb 
built the great mosque, but in his 
time the city began to decline, and 
was much ruined by the invasions 
of Ahmad Shah Du rani. Of its 
glorv in its prime the proverb ran : 

“ Isfahan and Shiraz united would 
not equal the half of Lahore." 

I 'or half a ceiitiuy after the 
Mughal capital was utterly eiiete, 
vigorous Muhammadan governors, 
\bdiil Saniand Khan, Zakana 
i\han (1717-31^). Yaliia Kliaii 
(173S-48), the son of the Litter, 
and nephew of the Delhi Wazir 
Kamar - ud - din Khan, and Mir 
Mannu, son of the last (174S-32), 
maintained themselves in the 
Panjab, and fought with the Sikhs, 

1 Thornton’s Lahore and .S>ad Munani- 
mad Latifs Lahore give vei y full accounts 
of the place. 


and submitted to the Persians 
under Nadir Shah, and the 
Afghans under Ahmad Shah. 
When the widow of Mir Mannu, 
Murad Begam, was treacherously 
entrapped by the Wazir Ghazi- 
ud-din. Adina Beg (1755-^). 
made Governor of the Province ; 
and it was his summoning the 
Mail rat tab to protect him against 
the Sikhs that ultimately led in 
1761 to the Battle of "Panipat, 
in which Ahmad Shah utterly 
crushed the Hindu foray ers of the 
South for the moment. From 
1775 onwards the Sikhs were the 
real rulers of Lahore. 

L'ndcr Ranjit Singh. Lahore 
regained some of its former splen- 
dour, and bince the period of the 
Britibh rule, which commenced in 
1S49, buildings have greatly multi- 
plied. Tile modern citv covers an 
I area of 040 acrcb (the old wall sur- 
! rounding it has been removed). 

I I'he moat has been filled in and has 
! been converted into fine lawrns, 

■ which encircle the city on every 
i bide e.xcept the X.W. A metalled 
road runs round the city, to w^hich 
I it gives acccbS by tliirtc'en ‘^alcs. 

Within the ramparts that sur- 
round the city, in the X.W. cor- 
ner, IS the citadel, usually called 
the fort The Ravi River, flowing 
\\ ., once w^ashed the walls of the 
city, and in 1662 made such 
encnjachmentb as to necessitate 
the construction of a mas.sive 
embankment 4 m. long. It now 
sweeps round Lahore and passes 
to the S. at about i m. W. of the 
city. 

I he Lawrence Gardens, wiucJi 
cover 157 acres, contain a Urge 
variety of trees and shrubs of 
different species. The visitor will 
remark the Vinus longifolia, the 
I Australian gum-tree, and the 
j carob-tree of Syria. There is also 
a menagerie at the W. end, and a 
cricket ground at the E. end. 

j At the N. bide is the Lawrence 
Hall, built in memory of Sir John 



ROUTE 15. L\HORE : CENTR \I MUSrUM ^OQ 


Lawrence in 1862, fronting the 
Mall ; and the Montgomery Hall, 
huilt in 1866, in memory ol Sir K 
-Montgomery, facing tlic central ; 
avenue of "the gardens A co\'- j 
t'red corridor connects them. The 
Montgomery Hall contain^ por- ! 
traits of Sir Henry Lawrence. Sir 
John Lawrence, and other Lieu- 
tenant-Governors of the Province, 
and celebrated Englishmen, in- 
‘ hiding Brigadier - Greneral John 
Vicholson. 

Government House stands on tht j 
opposite side of the Mali, X. of the | 
Lawrence (jardens It was the 
tomb of Muhammad Kasim Khan, \ 

' ousin of the Emperor Akbar. | 
He was a great patron of wrestlers, ' 
and his tomb used to be called | 
Kiishiiwala Gumbaz, or Wrestler's ' 
Home The present Lieutenant- i 
Governor of the Panjab is Sir 
M. F O'Dwyer, KC’.S.f. 

hh ol this ib the Panjah Club, and 
L. again the Aitchison Chiefs' 
College, which owes its inception ! 
to Sir C. l.h Aitchison (Lieuttai- j 
•int - Governor, 1882-7). ^tid ot 
which the foundation-stone was 
laid by Lord Dufferin in 1S88, 
intended for the education of the 
sons of the Native Princes and 
leading Chiefs of the Panjab'. 

J he Central Building is a very 
tine one, and the number of 
students varies from 80 to 100. 

The Jubilee Statue of Queen 
Victoria in the centre of the Mall, at 
the spot known as Charing Cross, is 
n pleasing one. The R.C. Cathe- 
dral ib a very fine building ; the 
Anglican Cathedral is a large red 
hrick Gothic church, erected m 
I ‘'^84-7 Beyond is an ineffective- 
statue of Lord Lawrence, Chiel 
Commissioner and Lientenant- 
t governor of the Panjab, 1853-0. ' 
The Chief Court is a pleasing 
Mructure built in the late Pa than | 
Myle of the 14th century. The | 
Telegraph Office, the Post Office, j 
and the Bank of Bengal are all 1 


handsome buildings. Adjoining 
the last IS the American Pres- 
byterian College. 

The Central Museum is perhaps, 
the most elective of all the public 
buildings in Lahore : the founda- 
tion-stone of it was laid by H.lL 
the Duke of Clarence in February 
1890. Later a white marble en- 
trance facade was added, but it 
cannot be said to be in keeping 
wdth the rest of this fine building. 

Opposite this is the New Univer- 
sity Hail, and in front of it is the 
famous gun, “ Kim's " gun, called 
the Zamzania, Hummer." or 
I.ion's Roar. The Sikhs called 
it the Bhangianwah Top — that is, 
the cannon of the Bhangi con- 
federacy. The gun tvas made bv 
Shah M'ali Khan, Wazir of Ahmad 
Shah Durani, and was used bv 
him at the Battle of Panipat. 
Alter Ahmad Shah left India ir 
came into the hands of the Bhangi 
Misl, and Maharaja Ranjit Singh 
eventually got possession of it, 
and used it at the siege of Multan 
in 1818. It was then placed at 
the Delhi Gate of Lahore until 
1S60, when it was removed to its 
1 present site. The Persian inscrip- 
i tions on it give the date of easting. 

I 1762 A.D. 

I I'he Lahore Central Museum is 
1 well worth a carelul inspection. 

] It contains an excellent collection 
, of antique sculptures, coins, Kan- 
gra and Mughal paintings, the 
various arts and crafts of the 
: Province, and a unique collection 
of textile manufactures and some 
of the raw products of the Panjab. 

, An effort has been made by the 
. Curators at dilferent times to show 
, the processes of manufacture of 
the various crafts in the same cases 
as the finished articles, and thi.s 
will be continued. The glory ot 
the Lahore Museum is the col- 
lection of Graeco-Buddhist sculp- 
tures which were excavated from 
various sites m the PeshAwar dis- 
trict and surrounding territories, 



India 


ROUTE 15 (h) DELHI TO LAHORE 


31^ 

the ancient Gandhara country. ] 
These sculptures are remarkable 
in that they were largely the work 
of Graeco-Bactrian sculptors, and, 
consequently, show a very strong 
Greek, or rather Hellenistic influ- 
ence, which is especially noticeable 
in the well-balanced grouping of 
the figures and the treatment of 
the drapery.^ The subjects, how- 
ever, except for some decorative 
details, are purely Indian, the 
bas - reliefs illustrating scenes of 
Buddha's life. It is not a little 
curious that the Buddha image 
itself is, in all probability, a 
creation of the Graeco-Bactrian 
artists of Gandhara. The flour- 
ishing period of the Graeco-Bud- 
dhist school is beheved by the 
best authorities to fall in the ist 
century a.d., though the most 
classical specimens are probably 
earlier. The visitor should note 
particularly the stupa drum of 
Sikri, which occupies the centre of 
the archaeological gallery. It is 
carved all round with various 
scenes of Buddha's life, including 
that of his being fed by a monkey. 
The Sikri sculptures were exca- 
vated by the late Sir Harold 
Deane, the first- Chief Commis- 
sioner of the Frontier Province. 
They include the statue of 
Gautama Buddha emaciated after 
his long fast, which is strik- 
ing through its almost repulsive 
realism. Among inscriptions may 
be seen that of Takht-i-Bahai, 
dated in the reign of King Gondo- 
phares, at whose court St Thomas, 
the Apostle of India, lived, and ; 
who, according to tradition, put 
the Apostle to death. 

In the archaeological depart- 
ment - there mav be seen also, the 

1 I he standard work on these sculptures 
is A. loucbt-r’s Ar^ ^reco-boutidhigut' du 
Gandhara, vol i, Paris, 1905, 

“ See Descriptive Guide to the Depart- 
ment 0/ A/chceoio^v and A?iti<jta'ties. 
Lahore Museum, by Percy Brown. Ill u ti- 
trated. baboic, 1008 8 as. An illustrated 

catalogue of the liraeco - Buddhist (ui 
Ciandh^ra) sculptures by Mr H Harereavr**, 
should be asked for. 


bases of two pillars brought by 
General Cunningham from Shah 
ki Deri, probably the ancient 
Taxila ; numerous Buddhist 
sculptures from the A'usafzai 
country and elsewhere, in which 
the classical influence is plainly 
discerned ; a Buddhist pillar 
about 9 ft. high, with a huge head 
projecting on one side, dug up 
near Jhelum ; also two old brass 
cannon found buried in a mound 
of Anandpur, in the District of 
Hoshiarpur, thought to be of 
the time of Guru Govind Singh. 
There are also two relics of the 
prehistoric age — two finely-finished 
celts of porphyritic greenstone, 
found in Swat. 

The collection of jewellery, both 
antique and modem, including 
Specimens from the Trans-Indus 
territory, is very good, and shows 
a power of design and decoration 
well worth studying : and the 
collection of hookahs of all periods 
and in all materials is contained in 
another interesting case. There is 
also a comprehensive collection of 
musical instruments gathered to- 
gether by tlie late Mr Kiphng. 
which show great beauty of design 
and execution, and a good collec- 
tion of Indian arms and armour, 
among which a dagger fancifully 
decorated with pearls running in 
grooves in the blade, and a sword, 
the hilt and scabbard of which 
are decorated with Niello work, 
are particularly noticeable. Other 
cases contain specimens of pottery 
and Panjab glass, and of the 
Koftgari work of Gujarat and Sial- 
kot ; cups and ornaments of 
vitreous enamel from Bahawalpur ; 
silver inlaid in pewter and per- 
forated metal work from Delhi. 

There are good specimens of the 
silk manufactures of Bahawalpur 
and Multan, and the satinettes 
are excellent. The embroideries 
called shishadar phtdkaris, of soft 
floss silk on cotton, interspersed 
among which are small bits of 
glass, are special to the Panjab ; 
the rude idols, hideously painted, 



ROUTE 15. LAHORE : CENTRAL MUSEUM 


3^1 


were worshipped by the ladies ui 
the Sikh Court. There are choice 
examples of Kashmir shawls, both 
woven and hand-embroidered, and 
some in which the two processes 
are combined, and various speci- 
mens of that interesting process 
called tie-dyeing,"' which gives 
curious patterns, and shows the 
method of manufacture. There 
have recently been added minia- 
ture model groups showing the 
workers engaged in making pot- 
tery, glass, metal ware, lacquer 
work, turning, etc., which are 
excellently grouped and painted. 
There are also collections of the 
leathern w'are of the Panjab ; of 
ethnographical heads by ^lessrs 
Schlagentweit ; lay figures habited 
in the costumes of the people of 
Lahaul, Spiti, and Ladakh ; and 
Tibetan curiosities, such as 
prayer- wheels. 

In the mineral section will be 
seen the model of the Koh-i-Nuv 
made for the Exhibition of 1851. 
According to the Hindus, this 
diamond belonged to Kama, King 
of Anga, and according to the 
Persians, it and its sister dia- 
mond, the Darya - i - Nur, or 
“Sea of Light," were worn by 
Afrasiab. 

The numismatic section, which 
IS particularly good, almost unique, 
for the period of Greek rule in 
Bactria and the Panjab, and con- 
tains also Mughal and Indian 
coins of great interest, can be seen 
on application to the Curator. 
The coin catalogue is by INIr R. B. 
Whitehead, LC.S., ClarendonPress, 
1914. Attention is also drawn to 
the specimens of jewellery from the 
Trans-Indus country, published 
by Sir J. H. Marshall in his Report 
902^3 (pp. 185-94). i 

The Tibetan collection includes | 
some remarkable specimens of j 
Lamaistic temple banners. Finest 1 


. of the painted banners depicts 
j the “Wheel of Existence" and 
I other scenes of Buddha’s life 
! from his conception and birth 
I till his Nirvana and the worship 
I of his relics. 

5 Among minor antiquities should 
I be noted a Buddha statuette of 
i brass inlaid with silver and copper 
] from Fatehpur, in the Kangra 
; District. It belongs to the 6th 
1 century a.d. (see AvcKcoL Survey, 

; Ann. Rep., 1904-5, pp. 107-9). 

I There are also specimens of the 
, mineral resources of the country. 

I Among them will be seen iron ore 
I from Bajaur. It is a magnetic 
I oxide of singular purity. Anti- 
I mony and lead are also shown, and 
gold found in the sands of the 
Panjab rivers in small quantities. 
Specimens of rock-salt of tw^o 
kinds — one from the hills between 
the Jhelum and the Indus, and 
the other from the hills beyond 
the Indus — are exhibited too. 

I The Mayo School of Art attained 
i considerable eminence under the 
I late Mr J. Kipling, C.I.E., Mr 
j Percy Brown, and Sardar Bahadur 
I Ram Singh, M.V.O., a pupil of 
j Mr Kipling, and now Principal, 
i The last-named is well known for 
i the fine carved work which he 
I executed for Her Majesty Queen 
I Victoria and H.R.H the Duke 
of Connaught, and he was also 
responsible for many fine buildings 
in Lahore. The School of Art has 
always been a centre of craft work 
in the Panjab, and the work of 
its staff and students has been 
extensively utiUsed by Govern- 
ment in decorative work of all 
kinds all over the Province. It 
has been fortunate to have as 
Principals men sympathetic with 
the indigenous arts of the Pro- 
vince, and the chief aim of this 
institution is still to encourage 


among them is the embroidered 
banner, showing Padma-sambhava 
(Lotus - born), who converted 
Tibet to Buddhism. It was pur- 
chased for the sum of lioo. One 


‘ and improve these arts, with 
which object new workshops have 
been required to enable the better 
teaching of cabinet-work, metal- 
! work, jewellery, cotton -printing, 



312 


India 


ROUTE 15. ih) DELHI TO LAHORE 


and pottery, and the staff required 
strengthening by engaging experts 
in these crafts. One department 
of the School is devoted to the 
training of teachers of drawing and 
craft work, and teachers from this 
department are sent all over the 
Panjab and to other parts of 
India. 

W. of the new Museum is the 
Town Hall, opened by H.R.H. the 
late Duke of Clarence in 1890, and 
S. of this is the Panjab Library, 
said by some to have been built 
by Wazir Khan, by others by 
Ilahi Bakhsh, It is a handsome 
building, with four white cupolas, 
and contains many valuable books. 

Not far off, on the E. outskirts of 
the Anar KaU Bazar, is the Nila 
Gumbaz, or Blue Dome, the tomb 
of Abdul Razak, a saint of the 
time of Humayun, Farther S., 
near the Presbyterian church, is 
the shrine of another Muhamma- 
dan saint called Manj-i-Darya. 
Over the door is a Persian inscrip- 
tion which says it is the tomb 
of Saiyad Muhammad Shah 
Maujd-Darya, son of Nuru'llah, 
who was a spiritual guide in the 
time of Akbar. 

The Tomb of Anar Kali, Pome- 
granate Blossom (a name given 
to a favourite lady in the harem of 
Akbar, who was also called Nadira 
Begam, or Sharfunnissa), is an 
octagon cased in plaster and sur- 
mounted by a dome. It was for 
many years the church of the Civil 
Station (St James), but it is now 
used as the Secretariat Library, 
The cenotaph, now placed at the 
E. end of the central chamber, is 
of the purest white marble, and 
the ninety-nine names of God 
carved on it are so exquisitely 
formed as to surpass anything of 
the kind in India. On the side, 
below the names of the Deity, is 
written Majmin Salim-i- Akbar 
(the enamouredf Salim, son of 
Akbar), Salim being the name of 
Jahangir. On the W. side is 


a date, above the words “ In 
Lahore,’' corresponding to 1615, 
which is probably the date of the 
building of the tomb. The story 
is that Anar KaK was beloved by 
Salim, and was seen by Akbar, his 
father, to smile when the Prince 
entered the harem. As a punish- 
ment for this it is said that she w^as 
buried alive, and the pathetic 
distich engraved on her sarco- 
phagus certainly indicates that 
Salim was her lover : — 

‘ Ah gar man baz binam rue yar-i-kliwesh ra, 
Ta kiamat shukar goyam Kardagarl- 
khwesh ra.’* 

“Ah, if I could again see the face of my be- 
loved, 

To the day of judgment I would give 
thanks to my Creator ” 

In front of the Civil Secretariat 
Office, adjoining the tomb, a 
cross to the memory ol * Sir 
Donald M'Leod. Lieutenant-Gov- 
ernor, 1S65-70. 


The Government College build- 
ings rise finely on tlie right side 
of the road from Amarkali to the 
city ; the Convocation meetings of 
the Panjab University are held in 
the great Hall of the College, and 
there is a large boarding-house 
attached to it ^ On the oppo.site 
side of the road are the District 
Courts, which possess more archi- 
tectural merits than buildings of 
this class usually do in India. 
Farther back to the W. from here 
is the noted shrine of Data Ganj 
Bakhsh, a saint of the time 
of Mahmud of Ghazni. Passing 
round the W. side of the city a 
fine view is obtained at the N.W. 
comer of the great mosque and 
the Sikh sacred places to the N. 
of it and the fort rising above it. 
The first of the shrines is that of 
Guru Arjan, the fifth Guru, and 
compiler of the Adi (original) 
Granth. The Granih is read here 

^ The Oriental College is also included in 
uicse. It contains 90 students, and the 
Goveinment College aoo. 



KOUTE li 

daily in a huge volume over 
which attendants reverently wave 
ihauns. According to Sikli 
legend, he disappeared in the 
Ravi on this spot, upon which 
Maharaja Ranjit Singh, accord- 
ingly-, built this memorial. Be- 
tween this and the Hazuribagh is 
the Samadh, covering the ashes of 
Maharajas Kan jit Singh, Kharak 
Singh, and Nau Nihal Singh, 
a glittering white building rather 
out of keeping with the solemn 
mosque. It faces the W. wall 
of the fort, and is a square 
stucco building, restored in part 
m 1840, on a high plattorm 
of marble. The ceihngs are de- ! 
corated with traceries in stucco I 
inlaid ttdth mirrors. The arches 
of the interior are of marble, 
'^.trengthened with brick and 
chitnam, and clamped with iron, 
by order of Sir D. M'Leod. 
when Lieutenant-Governor. Tn 
the centre is a raised platform uf 
marble, on which is a lotus flower 
earved in marble, surrounded by 
eleven smaller flowers. The central 
rtower covers the ashes of the great 
Maharaja ; the others those of 
tour wives and seven concubines | 
who became satis with his corpse 1 

In the centre of the Hazuribagh 
IS the Barahdari, a marble pavilion 
built by Ranjit Singh from the 
Spoils of Mughal edifices. The 
patched nature of the structure 
will be evident from the use of 
various fragments of inlaid pave- 
ments, and from the balustrade 
round the roof, which is parth' 
made up of halves of pierced win- 
dow-screens. The tradition that 
the whole pavilion once formed 
the superstructure of the mauso- 
leum of Jahangir can easily be 
proved to be without any founda- 
tion. The total aspect of the 
Barahdari is not unpleasing, not- 
withstanding its mixed style, and 
its historical associations render it 
of special interest. It is frequently 
mentioned bv European travellers 


5. i.ATTORE 313 

j who visited Lahore during the 
j Sikh period. It seems that 
William Moorcroft was put up 
here in Ma\' 1820. in the reign oi • 
Ran]it Singh, while Captain Leo- 
pold von Orlich was received in 
the Hazuribagh in audience bv 
Slier Singh in January 1843. 

Right opposite the flight of 
stairs leading up to the Badshahi 
Masjid is one of the two main 
gates of the Lahore Fort,^ called 
I the Hazuribagh Harwaza. It is 
i sometimes designated by the name 
j of Akbari Darwaza, the Gate of 
Akbar, but it is evident that the 
present gate cannot possibly have 
any connection with that Emperor. 

It is a late structure, apparently 
built at the same time as the Bad- 
shahi IMasjid, and renewed by the 
Sikhs. 

The Hazuribagh Darwaza, as 
well as the Masti Darwaza (the 
other main gate which gave access 
to the fort from, the side of the 
city), has been closed since the 
British occupation. The fort is 
now entered through a modern 
postern dating from the year 1853, 
where a register of visitors is kept. 
Behind it rises the Hathi Pol, or 
Elephant Gate,- which once formed 
the private entrance to the apart- 
ments occupied by the Emperor 
and his ladies The gate itself, 
as well as the adjoining curtain 
wall, is gorgeously decorated with 
tile mosaics, which are continued 
I all along the W. and N. faces of 
I the fort wall.'' Though this tile 
I work has suffered irreparable 
' damage owing to neglect and the 
1 repeated bombardments during 
' the Sikh period, it still retains its 

! The account of the Lahore Ftju 

I Is ija^ed oil Dr Vo'^el’s Hhion'ea/ on 

: the J.ahOrr Fort ]''aniab His- 

ior>icii Society, IQU, i. 38-55) 

- 'Vhe old elephant route into the fort is 
to be reopened. Visitors following its wind- 
ings to the left arrive first at the Slush Mahal 
C'i5urt. and then, passing the Mughal build- 
ings, leave the fort at the Diwan-i-khas and 
p.iss under the walls to the gate of entrance. 

‘ On these tile mosaics, vide Jour-nal 0/ 
hidiau Art and Industry, \ol. 14 , Nos 









ROUTft 15, LAHORE FORT ^ 


brilliancy of colour, and fully 
deserves a close inspection. This 
su - called kashi work was a 
Uvourite mode ol decorating 
brick buildings in the days of 
Shah Jahan. and is by no means 
uncommon in the buildings of his 
reign found at Lahore. But the 
decoration of the fort wall is 
unique in that in several of the 
panels figures of living beings have 
been introduced. Many panels 
depict elephant fights, the favour- 
ite recreation of the Mughal Court. 
The elephants are always full of 
vigour, but the same cannot be 
said of the camels and horses. 
The spandrels are decorated with 
winged figures of Persian fairies 
(pan) in floating robes, carrying a 
fan or a lamb or holding a horned 
demon with hands tied in front. 
The decoration on the wall of the 
Saman Burj is particularly fine, 
and special attention may be 
drawn to the two panels depicting 
a camel fight, and one, unfor- 
tunately much damaged, showing 
four Mughal horsemen playing 
polo. The goals, consisting of 
two upright slabs, are clearly 
shown on both sides of the panel. 
It should be remembered that 
polo, or ckaitgan, as it is called in 
Persian, was a favourite sport at 
the Court of the Great Mughals. 
On the N. wall most of the decora- 
tion has gone, but beneath the 
Kliwab-gah of Jahangir may be 
seen a pair of particularly fine blue 
dragons (the dragon, or azhdaha, 
was one of the emblems carried in 
front of the Emperor), whilst 
another panel shows the familiar 
scene of the goat and monkey- 
man. 

The tile work on the N. wall 
belongs, perhaps, to the reign of 
Jahangir, but that on the Saman 
Burj and on the W. wall may be 
safely ascribed to the beginning 
of Shah Jahan’s reign. A Persian 
inscription over the Hathi Pol 
records that Shah Jahan built a 
hoyal Tower (Skah Burj) in a.d. 
{6^-2. The Shah Burj in ques- 


I tion is the same which is now 
known as Saman Buyj. 

Before entering the palace 
proper it may be noticed that 
' we must distinguish three distinct 
. building periods — the early ^tug- 
I hal palace, completed by Jahangir 
I in 1617-18; Shah Jahan's palace, 

! completed in 1631-2; and the 
I tasteless and insignificant addi- 
tions due to the Sikhs, who re- 
I stored the palace after a period of 
I neglect. The military occupation 
: since 1849 has done great harm, 

; which of late years has been partly 
remedied, mainly through the 
influence of Lord Curzon. 

From the Hathi Pol two roads 
lead up to the palace buildings. 
The ancient road, now closed to 
the public, starts to the N. (left) 

I of the gate, and by a twisted flight 
! of Steps leads up to a courtyard 
I which, by a marble gate, com- 
j municates with another court 
I adjoining the square of the Saman 
\ Burj. It was once the private 
I entrance to the imperial palace, 
j The modern road is a ramp of 
, military construction which takes 
! the visitor to the W. end of what 
j was once the big quadrangle of the 
j Diwan-i-’Am. The cloistered row 
1 of buildings forming this square 
I were demolished after the military 
\ occupation, except a block m 
' front of the Pearl Mosque, or Moll 
I Masjid. Tins will convey some 
I idea of what the original cloister 
I must have been like. Over tlie 
j gate there is a marble slab with a 
I Persian inscription which records 
! the completion of the early Mughal 
1 palace by Ma’mur Khan in the 
1 twelfth regnal year of Jahangir 
j — i.e., the year 1027 of the Hijra 
; (a.d. 1617-18). 

1 This gate and the little court - 
! yard behind give access to the 
i Pearl Mosque, or Moti Masjid, 

I apparently the earliest of the four 
i buildings of the name.^ It is an 

I I The Peari Mesque in the Agra Fort was 
built L\ Shah Jahan, that in the Delhi Fort 
' by Anranozeh, and that at Mahrauli, or Old 
Delhi (Kutb), b> Shafc Alam Pahadur Shah. 



India 


316 ROUTE 15. ih) 

exquisite little edifice of white 
marble, with a court in front. 
The Sikhs converted it into a 
treasury, and it was continued to 
be used as such until it was rescued 
by Lord Curzon, who ordered its 
restoration, which was carried out 
in 1903-4. The variety of ceihiig 
construction in the various com- 
partments of the prayer chamber 
should be noticed. 


The Diwan-i-’Am itself occupies 
the centre of the fort. Until i'903 
it was used as a barrack, and it 
still bears traces of military occu- 
pation, though all modern excres- 
cences have since been removed. 

Xt consists of two distinct build- 
ings. The smaller of the two at 
the back (N. side), which consists 
of rows of small apartments, is the 
older portion which existed in the 
reign of Jahangir. The open hall 
in front, supported on four ro\vs 
of ten sandstone pillars, was added 
by Shah Jahan in the first year 
of his reign, so that his courtiers, 
when attending the daily public 
audience, might be sheltered 
against .sunshine and rain. 
Though one of the first creations 
of Shah Jahan’s reign, it is decid- 
edly disappointing from an arclii- 
tectural point of view. The entire 
superstructure is modern, and 
most of the buildings appear to 
have been reconstructed, perhaps 
during the Sikh period. The most 
interesting part is the throne 
balcony, or jharokha, in which the 
Emperor used to make his daily 
appearance. Between the front 
row of columns may be noticed 
remnants of the white marble 
railing, whilst along the platform 
in front of the hall the red sand- 
stone railing is partly preserved. 
These railings served the purpose 
of grouping the nobles, when 
attending court, according to their 
rank and dignity. 

The historical associations of 
the Diwan-i-’Am are many. It 
was probably here that Manucci i 


DELHI TO LAHORE 

rejoined Dara Shikoh after the 
Battle of Samugarh.^ Manucci 
has also an extraordinary story 
about some golden pigs which were 
made by order of Jahangir to 
annoy the Mullahs, for, when he 
awoke, he would rather see these 
pigs than the face of a Muham- 
madan. After his death Shah 
Jahan had them buried “ in front 
of the royal seat in the fortress of 
Lahore. ’ ' The whole story sounds 
rather like a yam. In the days 
of Ranjit Singh the Diwan-i- Am 
was known as Takht — i.e., the 
Throne. It was here that after 
Ranjit Singh’s death his body la 3^ 
in state. This is evident from the 
account of his court physician. 
Dr Martin Honigberger, who gives 
a most graphic description how in 
the great courtyard he met one 
of the four Queens who were to be 
burnt with the remains of their 
royal husband. - 

At the back (N.) of the Diwan-i- 
’Am is the oldest portion of the 
Lahore palace. It is usual Iv 
designated as the Quadrangle of 
Jahangir, although it is not impos- 
sible that these edifices go even 
back to the reign of Akbar. Thej' 
consist of two rows of buildings 
facing each other, with sandstone 
porches characterised as early 
Mughal b^'^ eaves supported on 
ancient brackets. The car\"ed 
work on the two slightly-projecting 
edifices at the ends of both rows 
is particularU’’ fine. The centre of 
the N. side of the quadrangle is 
occupied by the Bari Khwahgah, 
which is ascribed to Jahangir, but 
is evidently modernised to a large 
extent. It is intended to convert 
this building into an armoury, and 
display’- in it the collection of 
ancient weapons now kept in one 
of the buildings of the Saman Burj. 
The central portion of the quad- 
rangle was once occupied a 

^ Ntcolao Manucci Storia do Mogor, 
translated by William Irvine, London, 1907. 
vob r, pp. 158, 309. 

- Honigberger, F^chie aus dem Morgen- 
iandt, p. m (English translation, p. 97). 



ROUTE 15. LAHORE FORT 


317 


square tank and ornamental gar- 
den, but since 1849 these have 
made place for some ugly cook- 
houses and other structures. At 
present most of the buildings of 
Jahangir's Quadrangle are still | 
utihsed for military purposes, but 
It is hoped that ere long they will 
be vacated and made over to the 
Archaeological Department. 

The smaller square adjoining 
Jahangir’s Quadrangle on the . 
has preserved more of its original 
character. It is occupied by a 
lormal garden, with a platform and 
fountain in the centre. The open 
pavilion on the N. side of this 
garden is the Chhoti Khivahgah, or 
Lesser Bedchamber, which may 
be safely ascribed to Shah Jahan 
It is an elegant pavihon of white 
marble supported on five rows of 
five pillars carrying scalloped 
arches. The archw^ays on the X. 
are closed with pierced screens 
An eave, supported on brackets, 
runs along the four sides of the 
building. The roof has a parapet 
with marble facing decorated with | 
a grac^frful border of piety a dura, ; 
The interior is paved with varie- j 
gated marbles, and the centre is 1 
occupied by a fountain basin j 
scalloped out and inlaid with 1 
semi-precious stones. Most ot the [ 
inlay, however, has disappeared. 1 
For more than forty years the | 
Chhoti Khwabgah was used as a 
garrison Church. It was re- 
stored at the instance of Lord 
Curzon, The marble ceiling is 
modern. 

Looking down irum the Khivab-^ 
gah^ there is seen at the foot of 
the fort wall a ruined structure. 
It is the "Arzgah — i^e., the place 
where in the morning the nobles 
assembled to pay their respects to 
the Emperor. 

The next court, called Khilat 
Khana, offers nothing remark- 
able. In the N.W. corner of the 
adjoining square there is an open 
pavilion which dates from the 
reign of Ranjit Singh, and was 
used by him as a Kachahri, or Court 


of Justice. Its general appearance 
is not ungraceful, but its Sikh 
origin is clearly indicated by cer- 
tain details — such as the combina- 
: tion of white marble and red sand- 
stone brackets, and that of marble 
1 trellis screens with red sandstone 
j posts in the ornamental railing 
which is placed on the roof of the 
building. The curious frescoes on 
I the N. wall, relating to the legend 
' ot Krishna, are evidently the work 
j of one ot Ranjit Singh’s court 
\ painters. 

■ The last court to be seen is that 
j which , occupies the N W. corner 
j of the palace, and is known by 
the name of Saman Bitrj ' (p- 
This appellation, however, dates 
only from the Sikh period, Avhereas 
the original name was Shah Burj, 
or Royal Tower. The inscription 
over the Hafhi Pol, which records 
the completion of the Shah Burj 
j in the 4th year of Shah Jahan^s 
i reign (a.d. 1631-32), refers to this 
I group of buildings. 

' First of all ^vill be noticed the 
large hall, now known as Shish 
Mahal, or Palace of Mirrors, which 
occupies the N. side of the square, 
ft was here that in March 1849 
the sovereignty of the Panjab was 
assumed by the British Govern- 
ment, as is recorded on a marble 
tablet let into the wall. The 
Shish Mahal is built on a semi- 
octagonal plan. Its largest side, 
facing the square, has a row of 
double pillars of inlaid white 
marble, forming five archways 
surmounted by an eav'e of the 
same material. Interiorly the 
spandrels over the arches aie 
decorated with pietra dura, which 
has marvellously escaped the van- 
i dais who have mutilated this kind 
! of work wherever it was lound. 

! The graceful vine pattern over 
1 the two outer arches deserves 
I special notice. The main room. 

I a rectangular hall of noble dimen- 

j 1 rite woid saman is an abbreviation of 
Arabic musamntan, meaning “ octagonal. 

! The usual rendering of Saman Burj by 
1 “ Jasmine Tower ’ is wrong. 



India 


31S ROUTE 15, (6) DELHI TO LAHORE 


sions, has a dado of lute marble, 
while the upper portion of the 
walls and the ceiling are decorated 
mth mosaic of glass laid in 
g^-psum, which accounts for the 
name ot Palace of MOTors. It 
should be noticed that this decora- 
tion belongs to two different 
epochs. The ceiling, with its pre- 
vailing aspect of subdued gilt, 
formed undoubtedly part of the 
original edifice. It is rich without 
being gaudy. The Avail decora- 
tion, on the contrary, is decidedly 
vulgar, and the introduction of 
sherds of blue and white china 
bears testimony to a childish 
taste. It is typical Sikh work. 
The central hall is surrounded by 
a row of nine smaller rooms 
decorated in the same fashion. 
In the largest ‘of these rooms, at 
the back of the main hall, will 
be seen a very fine marble screen 
of trellis -work- The roof of the 
Shish Mahal is encumbered Avith 
a curious medley of structures 
dating from the Sikh period. 

The very ornamental marble 
paAdlion, with " Bengali ” roof, 
which stands on the W. side of the 
square, is called Naulakha — a 
name which is explained from its 
having cost nine lakhs of rupees 
to build. Probably the name and 
the supposed tradition are com- 
paratively modern. The building 
has been wrongly ascribed to 
Aurangzeb’s reign ; it undoubt- 
edly belongs to the beginning of 
Shah Jahan's reign, like the other 
buildings of the Saman (or Shah) 
BtiYj. The piety a dura decoration 
of the marble dado is entirely in 
the st>de of his reign, but the inlay 
in the panels above the dado is of 
a very different type, and reminds 
one of some of the work found on 
the Golden Temple at Amritsar. 
The Sikhs haA^e also meddled with 
the original decoration, as in one 
of the dado panels there appears a 
“ Chinese ” cloud converted into 
a bird. The painting and mirror 
wofk of the wooden ceiling is also 
certainly due to the Sikhs. The 


roof must once have been covered 
I AA'ith sheet copper and pinnacles 
! of the same metal. It is unknown 
; when it Avas removed. 

The remaining buildings of the 
j Shah Burj do not offer anything 
I remarkable. Those on the S. side 
! of the square are now used as an 
I armoury, but it is intended to 
i transfer the collection of ancient 
i weapons to the Bari Khwabgah. 
The courtyard is paved with grey 
and variegated marble, and the 
centre is occupied by a reserAmir. 
In the N.W. comer of the court 
there is a stone floor, measuring 
9 ft. 6 in. square, which does not 
I belong to the original pavement. 

I The tradition that it was taken by 
; the Sikhs from the platform in 
I front of the gateway of the Bad- 
I shahi Mas j id is untrue. It be- 
I longed originally to a mansion in 
i the city, and was purchased by 
[ Kanjit Singh. An apartment in 
j the N.E. corner of the square is 
indicated as Sher Singh’s bath- 
room. It belongs tp the original 
palace, but was altered Jby the 
Sikhs to suit the requirements of 
a Hammam. 

; Leaving the Hazuribagh by the 
I S. gate, and turning E. past the 
I reservoir of the Water-AAwks, the 
I Sonehri Masjid, or Golden Mosque, 
i IS reached- This has three gilt 
I domes, and was built in 1753 a.d. 
j by Bikhari Khan, a favourite ol 
the AvidoAv of Mir Mannu, a lady 
I who governed Lahore a short time 
I after her husband’s death. He is 
said to have displeased the lady, 

^ whose female attendants beat him 
I to death with their shoes. The 
1 situation of this mosque at the 
junction of tAV'o streets is pictur- 
esque. 

in a courtyard behind the 
mosque is a large well, with steps 
descending to the water. It is 
said to have been dug by Arjan, 
the fifth Guru. 

A street with some fine balconies 
leads E. again from here to a chatik 



ROUTE 15. EXCURSIONS FROM LAHORE Uu 


or square, where is the very beau- 
iiful Mosque of Wazir Khan. It 
was built in 1634 by Hakim ’Ala- 
ud-din of Chiniot, Governor of the 
Panjab under Shah Jahan. The 
brick walls are covered with inlaid 
ivork called Nakkashi, a kind of 
mosaic of glazed tiles, lately 
lenewed where necessary. The 
colours of the tiles are burnt in, 
and they are set in hard mortar. 
The yellow ground of the tile-work 
IS extremely effective and beauti- 
lul. Over the noble entrance is 
written in Persian : “ Remove th\' 
heart from the gardens of the 
world, and know that this building 
IS the true abode of man,"' It 
was completed in 1634 a.d. The 
architect was Hidavat-ullah, the 
faithful servant of Wazir Khan. 
In the centre front of* the mosque 
IS the Moslem creed, and in panels 
along the facade are beautifully 
written verses from the Koran. 
From the gallery round the min- 
arets, about 3 ft. broad, there is a 
very fine view over the city, which 
is truly Oriental and picturesque. 
Beyond the chaitk is the Delhi Gate 
of the city, from which the Landa 
Bazar now leads to the railway 
station. The magnificent palace 
of Dara Shikoh and the great 
Tripuha Bazar lay between the 
city and the station ; and the 
houses and gardens and tombs of 
the nobles extended along the 
Ravi as far E. as Shalimar. The 
ruined tomb of Mir Mannu adjoins 
the open space W. of the railway 
station ; the mosque E. of the 
station, now used as a railway 
office, was built by a foster*mother 
of Shah Jahan in 1635.^ 

The picturesqueness of the old 
town must appeal to every one, but 
to artists it will be found of especial 
interest. The balconies and pro- 
jecting oriel windows of the irre- 
gular brick houses, together with 
the variety and colour of the cos- 

^ The mosque of Dai Anga was restored 
^ the Muhammadans at the instance of Lord 
Curzon. 


[ tumes of the people, form a strik- 
! ing picture. The most effective 
I corners will be found a*^ the N. ends 
j of the streets leading from the 
; Mori and Lohari Gates. In front 
' of the latter the Anar Kali Bazar 
j runs for f m. down to the Pan jab 
j Museum. To the E. of it he the 
j King Edward ^lemorial, with the 
! Albert Victor Memorial wung, the 
Lady Aitchison Female Hospital, 
and the Lady Lyall Nurses’ Home. 

; A college for girls is being started 
I in memory of the visit of Queen 
j Mary. 

I Near the S.W corner of the 
Civil Station is the Chau bur ji 
’ (Four Towers) gateway. This 
beautiful but ruined building, 

! which led to the garden of Zebun- 
j nissa ^egam, a daughter of the 
I Emperor Aurangzeb, is faced with 
i blue and green encaustic tiles. 

This lady, who died in 1669 a.d., 

’ long before her father, and who 
j was a poetess under the name of 
Makhfi (Hidden), is buried at 
Nawan Kot i m. S from this 
garden. 

Excursions from Lahore. 

\ The Shalimar Gardens are 5 nu 
j E. from the railway station, 
j About half way to them is the 
I gateway to the Gulahi Bagh, or 
j Rose Garden, laid out in 1655 by 
{ Sultan Beg, Admiral of the Fleet 
I to Shah Jahan. The Nakkashi 
■ work of coloured tiles on the gate 
i is very beautiful, and hardly 
I inferior to that on Wazir Khan'.s 
I Mosque On the gateway is in- 
: scribed in Persian : — 

i ‘Sueet ib ihis garden ; tlnough envy of U 
j the tulip i-, >« potted, 

j The rose of the sun and moon forms itj 
I heautifui lamp ” 

Close to this is the tomb of 
Sharfunnissa Begam, sister of 
Zakaria Khan, with paintings of 
cypress-trees. 

There are many dargas and 
gardens near this building, to 



320 


1 ndid 


ROUTE 15. (6) 

which on hoiidays crowds of people 
go on pilgrimage. Between them 
and the river is the village of 
Begampur. The ruined octagonal 
tomb to the E,, known as the 
Bagga Gumbaz, or White Dome, 
is the tomb of Yahia Khan, and 
not far off are the mosque and 
grave of Zakaria Khan and his 
father, in a garden of the former, 
whose palace was at this place. 
Nearer the river again is the 
garden tomb of Shah Bilawal, a 
saint honoured by Shah Jahan, 
w'here Maharaja Sher Singh w^as 
murdered in 1843. 

Opposite to the Gulabi Bagh, 
across a field on the S. side of the 
road, is the Tomb of ’All Hardan 
Khan, the celebrated engineer, 
who also created the Sl^alimar 
Gardens- Its lofty archway re- 
tains traces of exquisitely coloured 
tiles. 50 yds. S. of this is the 
octagonal tomb, built of brick, 
now much ruined. 

The Shalimar Gardens were laid 
out in 1637 t>y order of Shah 
Jahan. They are divided into 
three parts; in tiers of different 
levels ; the highest was known as 
the Farhat Bakhsh, and the tw'o 
lowest as Faiz Bakhsh. The 
whole extent is about 80 acres, 
surrounded by a wall, with a large 
gateway and pavilions at each 
corner. Canals traverse the gar- 
den. and there is a tank in the 
centre wdth an island and a passage 
across to it. There are one hun- 
dred small fountains in the first 
garden, and double that number 
in the tank. The trees are chiefly 
mangoes, and the garden is laid 
out in monotonous square beds. 
Once, w’hen the cement was intact 
and the frescoes new, it must have 
been a very pretty place ; but now 
it strikes the eye as rather decayed 
and shabby. 

On the opposite side of the road 
are tw'O other gardens, the Sind- 
hanwala and Misr Brij. Lai's ; to 
the E. is the fine garden of Jama- 


DELRI TO LAHORE 

dar Kliushhal Singh, and across 
the road to the N.E. that of 
Lehna Singh. 

The Lahore (. antonment, for- 
! merly Meean Meer, lies 5 m. to the 
I S.E. of the Civil Station. It is the 
i headquarters of the 3rd Army 
i Division, Six qf the nine Arm>' 
Divisions, it may be noted, are in 
the corner of India, N.W. of Luck- 
now*. 

The Cantonment, built in the 
middle of graveyards and upon 
them, has always been very 
unhealthy ; the dust and heat of 
the place in summer render it one 
of the most unpopular in India. 

About m. to the N.W., on the 
right of the road from the railwav' 
j station to the Cantonment, is the 
I Shnne of Aleean Meer, a saint from 
whom the Cantonment has its 
name, and who w'as honoured by 
tile Emperors Jahangir and Shah 
Jahan, his real name being 
Muhammad Mir. It stands in the 
centre of a quadrangle 200 ft. sq., 
on a marble platform. Over the 
entrance arc an inscription in 
Persian and the date =1635 a.d. 
Ihe left side of the enclosure is 
occupied by a mosque, 
i The disarmament of the Native 
Regiments at Meean Meer, on 
13th May 1857, t>y Brigadier- 
General Corbett, was perhaps the 
most important of all the steps 
taken at the commencement of 
the Mutiny to secure the Panjab 
, and ensure the taking of Delhi. 

I It was carried out quietly and 
' effectively by the 8ist Regiment 
I and the artillery of the station, in 
I the presence of the Judicial Com- 
missioner, Mr Robert Mont- 
I gomery, Sir Jol^n Lawrence being 
, at the time in Rawalpindi. The 
I 8 1st also occupied the Fort of 
i Lahore and the Govindgarh Fort 
! at Amritsar. 

Returning towards the city, the 
traveller will pass on the right the 
village of Shahu-ki-Ghari, where 
are a number of large tombs, some 



ROUTE 15. 


SHAH DA RA 


3-1 


With cupolas, but all more or less 
ruined. Some way W. of the vil- 
lage is Kila Gujar Singh, so called 
from one of the Bhangi Sardars, 
and near it, and upon the main 
road from the Civil Station to the 
railway station, is the most vener- 
ated tomb in Lahore or its vicinity. 
It is called the Tomb of Bibi 
Pakdaman (the chaste lady) . 
According to tradition, this saint 
was the daughter of the younger 
brother of 'Ali by a different 
mother. Her real name was 
Rakiya Khanum, and she was the 
eldest of six sisters, who are all 
buried here, and who fled with 
her from Bagdad after the mas- 
sacre at Karbala ; she died in 
728 A.D., at the age of ninety. 
Visitors are expected to take off 
their shoes. There are five en- 
closures, and the tomb of Rakiya 
is in the fifth. It is of brick, 
whitewashed. 


Shabdara is situated beyond 
the road bridge, on the right 
bank of the Ravi, about m. to 
the N. of the railway bridge over 
that river. The journey by rail 
is 5 m. to the Shahdara station, 
from which the Tomb of the 
Emperor Jahangir is m. It is 
more convenient to go in a carriage 
(about 5^ m. drive). 

Before crossing the railway is 
seen (right) the tomb of Nurjahan, 
wife of Jahangir, a plain building 
of one storey ; it has been restored 
and is surrounded by fine lawns 
and flower-beds. 

After crossing the railway a 
domed building is passed on the 
left. This is the tomb of Asaf 
Khan (see below) ; and immedi- 
ately E. of it is the enclosure, 
which was the sarai or outer court 
of the mausoleum. An archway 
of white marble, and 50 ft. high, 
leads into the garden court of 
Jahangir’s mausoleum, once the 
Dilkusha garden of the Empress 
Xurjahan (INlihr - un- nissa) . The 


mausoleum con&ists of a line ter- 
raced platform, not unlike the low- 
est terrace at Sikandra (p. 242), 
with four minarets at the corners 
and a small pavilion over the tomb 
chamber in the centre.^ The 
passage to the tomb chamber is 
paved with beautifully streaked 
marble. The cenotaph is of white 
marble, inlaid with pietra dura 
work, and stands m the centre of 
an octagonal chamber. On the 
E. and W. sides are the ninety- 
nine names of God, most beauti- 
fully carved, and on the S. side 
is inscribed, “ The Glorious Tomb 
of His High Majesty, Asylum of 
Protectors, Nur-ud-dm Muham- 
mad, the Emperor Jahangir,” 
1627 A.D. On the four sides are 
exquisite screens of lattice- work. 
The lamp over the tomb was pre- 
sented by the Maharana of Kotah. 

Outside the entrance a staircase 
leads up to the flat roof of the 
terrace, covered with a fine marble 
tessellated pavement. The min- 
aret at each comer is 95 ft. high 
from the platform. The marble 
parapet which ran round the pave- 
ment was taken away by Maha- 
raja Ran jit Singh, but has been 
restored. The minarets are four 
storeys high, and are built of 
magnificent blocks of stone 8 ft. 
long. From the top there is a 
fine view over the Ravi to the city 
of Lahore. 

The Tomb of Asaf Khan, brother 
of the Empress Nurjahan, is an 
octagon surmounted by a dome. 
It has been utterly ruined and 
almost entirely stripped of the 
lovely kashi work which once 
adorned it. In the portals some 
fragments still remain to show how 
splendid it once was. The ceno- 
taph is of white marble. The 
Tughra writing on it is extremely 
fine, and resembles that on the 
tomb of Jahangir. The gardens 
here and round the Emperor’s 

1 The model of the tomb was that of Itl- 
mad-ud-daula at Agra (see p 241). 


X 



ROUTE l6. LAHORE TO PESHAWAR 


India 


5^2 

Tomb have been much improved | 
of late. Asaf Khan and his sister j 
had entire control over the indo- 
lent Jahangir during the last years 
of his hfe. Before marrying Ja- 
hangir, Nurjahan was married td 
an Afghan, Ali Kuli Khan, who 
lived at Burhanpur. Jahangir 
compassed his death, and earned 
Nurjahan away to DeUii ; as she 
refused to marry him, he im- 
prisoned her in a small palace, and 
made her an allowance of 14 annas 
a day. Eventually Asaf Khan 
persuaded her to marry Jahangir. 
On his death Nurjahan wished a 
younger son of the Emperor mai- 
ried to her daughter by her Afghan 
husband to succeed him : but 
Asaf Khan stood by Shah Jahan, 
and the ex-Queen at once retired 
into private life. Asaf Khan died 
six years later, having attained to 
the rank of Khan-i-Khanan and 
Governor of Lahore ; and his 
tomb was erected by the Emperor, 
who was himself born at Lahore. 
Nurjahan survived her brother for 
four years. 


18 m. W. of Lahore is Shaikh- 
pura, formerly Jahangirabad, the 
hunting -seat of Jahangir and of 
Dara Shikoh, the eldest brother of 
Aurang^eb. 

The road crosses the bridge over 
the Kavi. Eurtlier up-stream the 
river-pa vihon of Kamran has been 
demolished. The road, at about 
4 m., enters a dreary tract of long 
grass and jungle. A bridge over 
the Baghbachcha (Tiger Cub), a 
branch of the Dig, is then passed. 
At Mandiali there is a good Road 
Chauki, standing 100 yds. back 
from the road. 

On the left, at Shaikhpura, is a 
garden-house built by Rani Naka- 
yan. Queen of Ran] it Singh. At 
the S.W. comer of the garden is 
her Samadh, an octagonal build- 
ing. Over the door is a picture 
of the ten Gurus, with an inscrip- 
tion. Across the road is a very 
clean and comfortable house which 


belongs to the Raja Jagirdar, 
grandson of iMaharaja Teja Singh, 
and is lent by him to travellers. 

The Raja resides in the fine old 
fort here. 

There is good shooting round 
about. 3 m. from the town is a 
large tank surrounded by flights 
of steps with a three-storeyed 
bavahdayi in the centre, A tall 
minaret, Hiran Minar, or Deer 
Tower, stands near an entrance 
gateway N. of the tank. 


ROUTE 16. 

LAHORE to PESHAWAKbyGujran- 
wala, Wazirahad J unction, Gujrat, 
Lala Musa Junction, Jhelum, 
Rohtas, Manikyala, Rawalpindi, 
Golra, Attock, and Naushalira, 
with expeditions by rail from 
Wazirabad to Sialkot and 
Jammu from Mandhra to Chak- 
wal, from Lala Musa to W. 
Paujab, from Golra to Khushal- 
garh and Kobat, from Sarai- 
kala to the hill station ' of 
Abbottabad (Hazara) and from 
Naushahra to Hoti Mardan and 
the Malakand. 

Lahore to Peshawar is 288 m. by 
the North-Western Railway, and 
the time occupied in transit eleven 
hours and a half. Fares — Rs.28, 
Rs.13. 8 as., Rs.3, 6 as. 

5 m. Shahdara station. The 
tomb of the Emperor Jahangir, 
ij m. off, is described on p. 321. 
From here a branch line runs (56 
m.) to Sangla (p. 324). 



ROUTE l6. GUJRANWALA — SlALKOT 


323 


43 m. Gujranwala station (R., 
D.B. with four suites of rooms) 
(population 29,472). Headquar- 
ters of a District, and the birthplace 
of Ranjit Singh. At J m. be5^ond 
the station is the Samadh of Mahan 
Singh, father of the great Maha- 
raja. It is an octagonal building, 
Si ft. high to the top of the gilt 
ornament on the summit. Within 
are the sculptured rosettes or 
knobs which mark wRere the ashes 
are deposited. The large rosette 
surrounded by twelve smaller ones 
is inscribed “ Sarkar Ranjit 
Singh. That nearest the en- 
trance is in memory of a blue 
pigeon that fell down into the 
dames in which Ranjit Singh and 
his concubines were being con- 
sumed. Other rosettes mark the 
ashes of Mahan Singh Padshah, 
Maharaja Sher Singh, and Sarkar 
Xau Nihal Smghji. There is a 
narrow but lofty pavihon, covered 
with mythological pictures, among 
which IS one of Duryodhana order- 
ing Draupadi (p. Ixxu) to be 
stripped. As fast as the clothes 
were pulled off her she was super- 
naturally reclothed. At 100 yds. 
to the E. is the pavilion of Mahan 
Singh, a handsome building, now 
used as the reading-room of the 
town. Close to the market-place is 
the house where Ranjit Singh was 
born, with a frieze of geese round 
the courtyard. 

N.E. of the town is the Barah- 
dan, or pavilion, of the famous 
General Hari Singh Nahva. It 
stands in 40 acres of garden and 
grounds. To the E. is a pavilion 
12 ft. high, full of small niches for 
lamps. On the E. wall is a paint- 
ing of warriors and elephants, now 
almost gone. At 70 yds. to the 
N. of the house is the Samadh of 
Hari Singh (see p. 339). The 
place where the ashes lie is marked 
by a knob shaped like a budding 
flower. There are no sail memo- 
rials. A picture on the wall inside 
is a portrait of Hari Singh hawk- 
ing, wdth a string of ducks pass- 
ing over his head. The gardens 


round Gujranwala are famous 
for oranges Gujranwala is now 
famous for iron safes, which are 
being exported in large numbers. 

I 

I 62 m. Wasirabad junction sta- 
I tion (R., D.B- with four suites of 
' rooms) (17,146 inhabitants). From 
j here a Ime runs N.E. to Sialkot and 
1 Jammu (see below). This place, 

! founded by Wazir Khan in the 
! reign of Shah Jahan, became, 
under the rule of Ranjit Singh,^ 
j the headquarters of General A vita- 
bile. who built a completely new 
town on the plan of a parallelo- 
gram, surrounded by a wall. A 
broad bazar runs from end to end. 
Close to the town is one of the 
most famous gardens in the 
Panjab, laid out by DiwanThakur 
Das Chopra. N. of Wazirabad is 
the great Alexandra Bridge over the 
Chenab, opened on 27th January 
1876 bv King Edward VII., then 
Prince of Wales 

The Chenab was a most difficult 
stream to deal with, owing to the 
sudden furious floods to which it is 
subject and the absence of a well- 
defined river-bed. 

An expedition may be made by 
branch line from Wazirabad to 
Sialkot. Wazirabad is famous for, 
its cutlery, sword-sticks, and cane- 
sticks. 

27 m. Sialkot station (D.B.). A 
town with military Cantonment 
I m. N. (population 64,869). 
Sialkot has been identified with 
I the ancient Saga la, the capital of 
the Indo - Greek Menander (the 
i Milinda of the Buddhists) and of 
I Mihirakula the Hun. The Church 
is a striking object, having a 
steeple 150 ft. high. Near the 
railway station and the city is a 
lofty old fort, in which the British 
residents took refuge on the 
mutiny of the tw’O native regi- 
ments on 9th July 1857. A num- 
ber, however, were killed before 
they could make their escape, 
and Brigadier-General Brind, com- 

1 See p. I.vxxvii. 



ROUTE l6. LAHORE TO PESHAWAR 


India 


324 

manding the station, died after 
reaching the fort of the wounds 
inflicted on him. The mutinous 
regiments spared most of their 
officers, and even offered them 
higher pay to lead them to Delhi ! 
The normal garrison includes 
a regiment of British Infantry 
and Cavalry, one battery of 
Horse Artillery, one Ammunition 
Column, two regiments of Native 
Cavalry, one regiment of Native 
Infantry, one Mule Corps, and one 
Railway Company of Sappers and 
Miners. The railway continues to 
Jammu, and a line has been opened 
from Sialkot to Narowal, 39 m. 

52 m. Jammu station (D.B.) 
(population 31,726). This is the 
winter capital of the Maharaja of 
Jammu and Kashmir State, which 
has an area of 81,000 sq. m. and a 
population of 2,521,400 persons. 
The present Chief of the State (of 
which the annual revenue is about 
1 13 lakhs) is His Highness Lieu- 
tenant - General Maharaja Sir 
Pratap Singh Bahadur, G.C.S.I., 
G.C.I.E., G B.E., grandson of the 
famous Dogra Maharaja, Gulab 
Singh, to whom Kashmir was 
made over in 1846, after the First 
Sikh War. 

The Old Palace at Jammu, m 
the N.E. corner of the city, has no 
special pretensions to beauty. It 
is entered by a large irregular 
quadrangle, on the right side of 
which is a vast reception-room. 
The veranda of the small recep- 
tion-room overlooks the Tawi 
River. 

W. of the city is a temple 
covered with plates of copper-gilt. 
A httle to the N. of it is the new 
building constructed for King 
Edward’s visit, as Prince of Wales, 
on 2oth-22nd January 1876 ; the 
Prince of Wales College commemo- 
rates that of King George V. on 
loth December 1905. before he 
became King. Close by, to the E., 
is the old parade ground, with the 
hospital and college to the S.E. 
The Gumit Gateway, by which the 


city is entered from the River Tawi, 
is approached by a \ery pictur- 
esque flight of dressed stone steps. 
A new road leads from below it 
to the Residency R.H., m the 
S.E. corner of the city. 2 m. S. 
of this gate is a fine garden belong- 
ing to the Maharaja. 

The Banihal route to the Kash- 
mir Valley starts from Jammu (see 
Route 17). Facing the town on 
the N. side is a ridge known as 
Roulki, on which the sericulture 
buildings have been made, in 
which silk reeling is carried on and 
cocoons are stored. 

From \Vazirabad a branch line 
runs through Sangla, 69 m., to 
Lyallpur, 96 m, (so named after 
Sir J. B. Lyall, G.C.I.E., Lieuten- 
ant-Governor, 1887-1892), to Shor- 
kot Road junction, 163 m., and 
Multan, 232 m. At Chichoke 
junction a line connects with 
Lahore and another branch runs 
through the S. of the district also 
to Shorkot Road. These lines are 
required to convey excess grain 
to Karachi. 

The district of Lyallpur is unique 
in India. Its existence depends 
on the irrigation afforded by the 
Chenab Canal, and the area is 
3303 sq. m. It contains a 
specially - selected population ol 
880,239 persons. Th^ irrigated 
area amounts to 1,430,136 acres, 
producing crops annually valued at 
^35 j^oo>ooo. The district is the 
headquarters of five canal divi- 
sions. The Pan jab Agricultural 
College is at Lyallpur. 

71 m. Gujarat station. This 
pretty place is the administrative 
headquarters of a district of the 
same name. The town (altogether 
19,090 inhabitants) stands on the 
ancient site of tr\,vo earlier cities. 
The second, according to General 
Cunningham, was destroyed in 
1303 A.D. Two centuries after 
this Sher Shah was in possession 
of the country, and either he or 
Akbar founded the present town. 



ROUTE 1 6 GUJARAT — LALA MUSA • ^25 


Akbar's fort stands m the centre 
of the city. It was first garrisoned 
by Gujars, and took the name 
of Gujarat Akbarabad. Akbar's 
administrative records are still 
preserved in the families of the 
hereditary registrars. During the 
reign of Shah Jahan, Gujrat 
became the residence of a famous 
saint, Pir Shah Daula, who 
adorned it ivith numerous build- 
ings. In 1741 the Ghakkars estab- 
lished themselves at Gujarat, and 
in 1765 the Sikhs acquired the 
country. The Civil Station, in 
which IS the D.B., lies to the N. 
In it are a Church of Scotland 
Mission Church and Schools. 

The Battlefield. — The decisive 
Battle of Gujarat, which ended the 
Second Sikh War, was fought on 
the 2ist of February 1S49. Tlie 
villages of Kalra, 2|- m. S. of the 
D.B., were the key of the Sikh 
position. The villages are situ- 
ated in a flat plain, where there are 
no natural advantages to assist an 
army in maintaining its position. 
Lord Gough's camp, which had 
been at Wazirabad, where he was 
joined by the force which had 
captured Multan under General 
MTiish, was moved to Shadiwal 
between 17th and 19th February. 
Thence at 7 a.m. on the morning 
of 2 1st February the British force 
advanced on the Sikh position at 
Kalra. The artilier3" went to the 
front and poured their fire on the 
Sikh army, which comprised six 
brigades of infantry with fifty-nine 
guns, and four great bodies of Sikh 
cavalry with 4000 Afghan horse, 
the British army consisting of 
25,000 men and nearly 100 guns. 
The heavy Enghsh guns opened on 
the Sikhs at 1000 yds., and 
crushed their lighter metal. As 
the Sikh fire ceased, the British 
field - batteries were const?; ntly 
pushed forward. By 11.30 a.m. 
most of the Sikh guns had been 
withdrawn, dismounted, or aban- 
doned. The British infantry then 
advanced, deployed, and drove 


the Sikhs from their position in 
the tv'o villages of Kalra. There 
v/as no attempt to make a further 
stand at Gujarat, and the Sikh army 
streamed away in utter defeat to 
the E. and W. of the town, which 
was occupied by one o’clock. The 
British losses were only 766. 

Next day General Gilbert, with 
12,000 men, started in pursuit of 
the enemy, and at Rawalpindi 
received the submission of the 
entire Sikh army. 

In the cemetery at Shah Jahan- 
gir, called after a fakir of that 
name, are the tombs of those who 
fell in the battle. Beyond, to the 
E., are two mosques, one of which 
is rather remarkable Gujarat is 
one of the starting - places for 
Kashmir (see Route 17). 

82 m. Lala Musa junction 
station (R.). 

The Sind-Sagar line runs 345 
m. from here to Sher Shah junc- 
tion, S. of Multan {p 335), passing 
Chilianwala, Malakwal junction 
(from which a short line of 18 m 
runs to Bhera and a longer one to 
Sargodha, 47m., and Jhang, 116 
m., in the Jhelum Canal Colony, 
and thence Multan), Haranpur (for 
the Khewra salt mines). Find 
Dadan IChan, Khushab (for Shah- 
pur), Mitha Tiwana (the head- 
quarters of the famous Tiwana 
horsemen), Kundian (where the 
line from Campbellpur (p. 334) 
joins in), Darya Khan (for Dera 
Ismail Khan, 12 m. distant across 
the Indus, population 35,131, 
headquarters of a frontier Dis- 
trict; Sir H. M. Durand, Lieuten- 
ant-Governor of the Pan jab, 1870- 
71, who lost his life on ist January 
1871 from an accident at Tank, is 
buried in the churchyard here), 
]Mahmud Kot (for Dera Ghazi 
Khan, population 18,466), also 
on the right bank of the Indus, 
now almost destroyed by the river, 
and Mnzaffargarh. Between Kun- 
dian and IMahmud Kot the table- 
rock of the Takht-i-SuIaiman. the 



ROUTE l6. LAHORE TO PESHAWAR 


India 


326 


“ Throne of Solomon/’ 12,300 it., 
will be seen on the W. horizon on 
clear da>'s. 


The only ruins of much anti- i 
quity and interest to be found in | 
the District are the two forts of 1 
Kafir Kot, situated on small hills ! 
attached to the lower spurs of the 
Khasor range, and overlooking: the 
Indus. The main features of these 
forts are an outer defensive wall, 
consisting of rough blocks of stone, 
some of great size, and various 
groups of building, inside resem- 
bling small Hindu temples, and 
more or less carved. The area of 
these forts is considerable, and 
they could have held a good-sized 1 
garrison. Traces are still to be 
seen of their arrangements for 
raising water from the Kachi be- 
low. No legends are attached to 
them beyond that they are sup- 
posed to have been occupied by 
the last of the Hindu Rajas, Tel 
and Bil. These forts certainly 
point to the existence, in times 
before the Muhammadan invasion, 
of a Hindu Raj in this comer of the 
District possessed of considerable 
resources and architectural skill. 

At CMlianwala was fought, in 
the Second Sikh War, on 13 th 
January 1849, the most desperate 
of all the battles between the 
British and the Sikhs. The Sikhs 
advanced from their position on 
high ground between Rasul on the 
N. to Moong on the S., and opened 
a heavy fire on the British troops, 
and Lord Gough ordered a genera 
attack on them, though only a 
very short time of daylight re- 
mained. In making this the two 
brigades on the left under Sir Colin 
Campbell became separated, and 
that of General Pennycuick was 
badly checked, and finally had 
to fall back, while the absolute 
failure of the cavalry on the right 
of the British line exposed the 
divisions there to a flank attack, 
which prevented their advance. 


Finally the troops were recalled, 
the British losses being 2238, and 
several British guns were cap- 
tured. On the Sikh side from 
20,000 to 25,000 men were en- 
gaged, and on the British side 
14,000. A full view of the field 
may be obtained from the obehsk 
erected on the mound to the E. 
of it, from which Lord Gough 
watched the battle. Alongside 
of the obehsk is a cross and a 
small cemetery, in which General 
Pennycuick and his son and the 
officers of the 24 th Regiment, 
which suffered most of all, and 
other officers who fell at Chilian- 
wala, are buried. On the news 
of the battle reaching England 
Lord Gough was recalled ; but 
before the orders of recall reached 
him he had won the final victory 
of Gujarat. 

According to General Cunning- 
ham, Alexander crossed the 
Jhelum somewhere in the neigh- 
bourhood of Rasul and Moong, 
and defeated Porus in 326 B.c., 
not very far from the field of 
Chilian wala. 

Those interested in geology and 
in picturesque sights will find a 
visit to the famous Khewra salt 
mines (D.B.) will well repay the 
trouble of the journey. It would 
be well to write beforehand to the 
Superintendent of the Mines for 
facilities to visit them. 

20 m. from Pind Dadan Khan, 
and high up in the Salt Range, is 
the picturesque village and garden 
of Choa Saidan Shah, and near 
it are the temples of Katas, a very 
holy place of Hindu pilgrimage. 
Khushab, on the right bank of the 
Jhelum, is a place of great anti- 
quity. 

Beyond {92 m.) Kharian the line 
traverses a curiously broken tract 
known as the Pabbi, which is being 
afforested, and crosses the Jhelum 
River by a fine bridge, affording a 
grand view of the snows of the 
Pir Panjal and of the town on the 
N. bank. 



ROUTE l6. JHELUM NaNDANA 


103 m. Jiielum station (R., 
D B.), is a modem town situated on 
the right bank of the Jhelum River 
(population 12,298 in the town 
and 7380 in Cantonment) and the 
administrative headquarters of a 
district of the same name, built 
on an ancient site. The Civil 
Lines and Cantonment lie i m. E. 
and W. of the town respectively. 
The attempt to disarm the Native 
Regiment here on 7th July 1857 
was badly mismanaged, and re- 
sulted in the loss of valuable lives. 
Many ancient pillars have been 
dug up near the railway station, 
and amongst them one with a 
human face in the Greek style, 
which is now m a Lahore museum. 
Another is to be seen in the railway 
engineer's compound. The pre- 
sent town is of modern origin, the 
old town, which may have been 
the Bucephala of Alexander, hav- 
ing been on the left or opposite 
bank of the river. The town 
possesses one Anglo - Vernacular 
Middle School ot the A.P. Alission 
and a Government High School 
Besides the Civil Hospital, the A.P. 
Alission also maintains a hospital 
for women. 

Jhelum is an important timber- 
depot. The timber cut in the 
Kashmir forests is floated down the 
river and collected here. 

Dhangrote, on the Jhelum River, 
is a well-known place for mahsir 
fishing, some 10 m. from Jhelum. 

Rohtas is II m. N.W. of Jhelum. 
Carriage-road to the Kahan River 
8 m., and after that cart-track 
along the river, and then a bridle- 
path below barren hills 200 ft. 
high. This famous fort, which is 
partly visible from the railway, 
stands on a hill overlooking the 
gorge of the Kahan River Its 
walls extend for 3 m. m places from 
30 ft. to 40 ft. thick, and enclose 
about 260 acres. It was built by 
Sher Shah m 1452 as a check on 
the Ghakkar tribes. There are 
68 towers and 12 gateways. 


327 

The entrance, up a steep path, is 
by the Khawas Khan Gate, on the 
N.E. of the hill. The Sohal Gate 
(where is the D.B.) is on the S.W. 
It is a fine specimen of the Pa than 
style, over 70 ft. in height, with 
balconies on the outer walls, and 
is reached through the town, vflth 
a deep fissure on the left, and on 
the right an inner wall with a lofty 
gateway, called after Shah Chand 
\Vali. Within this stand the ruins 
of ]Man Singh's pala-ce, built after 
he reduced Kabul (p. 197). The 
S.W corner is a lofty barahdari, 
with a stone finely carved vflth 
figures of birds, etc. In the S E. 
corner, 130 ft. off, is a smaller 
barahdari, about 25 ft. high. 
The wall between the two is gone. 
There were twelve gates to the 
fort, but they are now nearly all 
in ruins. The Shisha Gate (an 
inner gate) was so called from the 
Harim’s Hall of Mirrors, which 
adjoined it. 

The gradients of the line be- 
tween Jhelum and (135 m.) 

Soliawa are very considerable, and 
the alignment has been several 
times changed. The scenery of 
the East extremity of the Salt 
Range, through which the line 
passes, is r'ery wild in parts 

Tiila, an Eastward continuation 
of the Salt Range, 3242 ft. above 
the sea. The hill is sometimes 
used as a summer resort by officers 
of Jhelum District. A famous 
monastery of Jogi fakirs, one of 
the oldest relieiuns mslitutions in 
N India, is situated here. 

Nandana.— A place of historical 
interest in the Pind Dadan Khan 
tahsilof Jhelum District, 14 m. W. 
of Choa Saidan Shah, in a remark- 
able dip in the outer Salt Range. 
Near by are extensive remains of a 
temple, a fort, and a large village. 
The temple is in the Kashmiri 
style, but faces W. instead of E., 
as temples of that style usually do. 
Of the fort two |pastions of iarge 



ROUTE l6. LAHOKE TO PESHAWAR 


India 


3-8 

well-cut sandstone blocks still ! 
remain. Nandana is mentioned , 
as the objective of one of Mahmud 
of Ghazni’s expeditions in 1014. 
Early in the 13th century it was 
held by Kamruddin Karmani, who 
was dispossessed by a general of 
Jalaluddin Sultan of Khwarizm. 
The latter was defeated on the 
Indus in 1221 by Chingiz Khan, 
one of whose officers — Turti, the 
Mongol — took Nandana and put 
its inhabitants to the sword. It 
appears in the list of places con- 
quered by Altamsh, who entrusted 
it to one of his nobles. 

Mayo Mine. — A salt mine at 
Khewra, in the Find Dadan Khan 
tahsil of Jhelum District, Panjab. 
When the salt was first worked is 
not known, but excavations ex- 
isted on the spot as far back as 
the time of Akbar, and the miners 
have a tradition that their first 
settlement dates from the 6th 
century of the Muhammadan era. 
The existing mine was named after 
Lord Mayo in 1870. It is esti- 
mated that 534,512 tons had been 
excavated up to 1850, and from 
that year to the end of March 1904 
the output was 2,572,705 tons. 
It is calculated that a further 
supply of million tons is easily 
accessible in the part of the hill 
which has been explored, and that 
large quantities exist in its unex- 
plored parts beyond the limits of 
the existing mine. The mine has 
a maximum length of 1405 ft., and 
is 2691 ft. broad at its widest part. 
Three tramways run through the 
mine, two of them being connected 
by a self-acting inchne, on which 
the loaded draw up the empty 
trucks. The revenue (duty) real- 
ised from the sale of salt is 
about 46 lakhs. There are three 
R.Hs. for the accommodation of 
travellers. 

Katas. — A sacred pool in the 
centre of the Salt Range, 15 m. N. 
of Find Dadan Khan, at an eleva- 
tion of over 200t ft. It is visited 


every year by thousands of pil- 
grims, who come to bathe in its 
waters. The Brahmanical story 
is that Siva, being inconsolable at 
the death of his wife, Sati (“ The 
True One ”), tears rained from his 
e3!"es and formed the two pools of 
Katas, or Kataksha (“ Raining 
Eyes ”), and Pushkar, near Ajmer. 
At the foot of Kotera, the W hill, 
are the remains of twelve temples, 
clustered in a corner of an old fort. 
These are called the Sat Ghara, 
or seven temples, and are popu- 
larly attributed to the Pandavas, 
who are said to have lived at Katas 
during a portion of their seven 
years’ wanderings. Choa Saidan 
Shah, which contains a good R.H., 
is noted for roses and the attar 
made from them. 

Malot. — A fort and temple on a 
precipitous spur projecting from 
the Southern edge of the Salt 
Range, about 9 m. from Katas. 
The fort is said to have been built 
five or six centuries ago by Raja 
Mai, a Janjua Chief, whose descen- 
dants still hold the village. The 
temple, with its gateway, stands 
on the extreme end of the cliff. 
They are in the earlier Kashmiri 
style, built of coarse red stone, 
much injured by the action of the 
weather. The temple is 18 ft. sq. 
inside, with remarkable fluted 
pilasters and capitals, on each of 
which is a kneeling figure. 

Jalalpur. — An ancient site on 
the right bank of the Jhelum River 
(population about 3000). The 
village was identified by Sir 
Mexander Cunningham with the 
site of the ancient Bucephala, 
built by Alexander the Great in 
memory of his famous charger, 
which was killed in the battle 
with Porus at the crossing of the 
Jhelum ; but doubts have been 
cast on the identification. Jalal- 
pur is now nothing more than 
a small agricultural village, of 
no importance apart from the in- 
terest attaching to its antiquarian 



ROUTE 1 6 SIV GANG A MANIKYALA 329 


remains. It has a dispensary, 
lately opened. ^ 

Siv Ganga, 3 m. X.K. ot Malot. 
In it stands a small temple 
m the later Kashmiri style, and 
near Warala, a hamlet on the adja- 
cent spur, a Buddhist sculpture 
was found by the villagers some 
years ago and set up by Hindus 
in a small temple at Siv Ganga. 
It having at some time been 
broken, and thus rendered useless 
for purpose of worship, the Hindus 
allowed its fragments to be sent 
to the Lahore Museum, where it 
was restored. The relief origin- 
ally contained eighteen or nineteen 
figures, the central one, a Bod- 
hisattwas, carved in a somewhat 
late stage of Gandhara art. 

163 m. Majikiala station is the 
nearest^ point to Manikyala Tope, 
which is I m. distant.^ 

Manikyala was first noticed by 
Mountstuart Elphinstone in 1815, 
and afterwards thoroughly ex- 
plored by General Ventura in 
1830. In 1834 the stupa was 
explored by General Court, and 
thirty years after by General 
Cunningham. The date is uncer- 
tain. There are coins taken from 
it of Kaniskha and Huvishka, 
which date from the beginning of 
the Christian era, but with them 
was found a coin of Yaso Varmma , 
who reigned not earlier than 720 
A.D., and many silver Sassano- 
Arabian coins of the same period. 
General Cunningham thinks that 
the stupa may have been originally 
built by Huvishka, who deposited 
coins of his owm reign and of his 
predecessor Kanishka, and that 
the stupa, having become ruinous, 
was rebuilt in its present massive 
form by Yaso Varmma, who re- 
d<. posited the relic - caskets with 
the addition of a gold coin of 

1 Cunningham’s Archcpol. Rep,^ 2, 152; 
r''.M!Tu<5.;on’s I/td. Arch.. 1. 94; James 
^^rinsep’t. Journal^ vol. 3, ' 


i himself and several contemporary 
j coins of Arab governors. 

The dome of the stupa, which 
1 was probably about 100 ft. high, 
i is an exact hemisphere, 127 ft. 
j in diameter. The outer circle 
; measures 500 ft. in circumference, 

I and IS ascended by four flights of 
I steps, one in each face, leading to 
I a procession path 16 ft. in width, 
j ornamented both above and below 
i by a range of dwarf pilasters, 

I representing the detached rail of 
I the older Indian monuments. 

! Mr Fergusson says (i, 96) : “It 
t is, indeed, one of the most marked 
i characteristics of these Gandhara 
I topes that none of them possess, 
j or ever seem to have possessed, 

' any trace of an independent rail ; 
but most have an ornamental belt 
of pilasters, joined generally by 
arches simulating the original rail. 
This can hardly be an early archi- 
tectural form, and leads to the 
suspicion that, in spite of their 
deposits, their outward casing 
may be very much more modern 
than the coins they contain.” 

At 2 m. to the N. of Ventura's 
i Tope is Court’s Tope. Here the 
earth is of a bright red colour, and 
' General Cunningham identifies 
I this stupa with that mentioned 
I by Hiuen Tsang as “ the stupa of 
the body - offering ” , while at 
1000 ft. to the S. of it is Hiuen 
Tsang’s “ stupa of the blood-offer- 
ing,” which that pilgrim ignor- 
' antly attributed to its being 
i stained with the blood of Buddha, 

' who, according to a curious legend, 
i IS said ^ to have offered his body to 
! appease the hunger of seven tiger 
, cubs. The stupa of the body- 
' offering was opened by General 
i Court, who found in a stone niche, 

' covered by a large inscribed slab, 

; three cylindrical caskets of copper, 

; silver, and gold, each containing 
! coins of the same metal ; four gold 
coins of Kanishka were found in 
' the gold box ; in. the silver box 
I were seven silver Roman denarii 
i of the last years of the Republic, 

1 1 This was in a previous e\isteni’<' 



330 


ROUTE 1 6. LAHORE TO PESHAWAR 


India 


the latest being IM. Antonins 
Triumvir, and therefore not earlier 
than 43 b.c. The eight copper 
coins in the box belonged to 
Kanishka and his predecessors. 
The inscription has been studied 
by M. Senart and Professor 
Liiders. 

General Cunningham ran tren- 
ches across the mound which now 
represents the monastery, and 
brought to light the outer wall 
and cells of the monks, forming a 
square of i6o ft. 

179 m. Rawalpindi Canton- 
ment junction station, (D B , 
Hotels, R.). This is the head- 
quarters of a Civil Diviision and 
I )istnct, of the 2nd Army division, 
and ot the Northern Army m the 
winter. The Cantonment is one 
of the largest military stations in 
India, and has been surrounded 
by a chain of detached lort'^, 
which have since been dismantled. 
The city and Cantonment have a 
population of 86,483, the majority 
of w^hom are Muhammadans, It 
received its name from Jhan'ia 
Khan, Ghakkar Chief, wdio restored 
the town of Fatchpur Eaun, 
destroyed by an invasion of the 
Mughals in tlie r4th century. A 
very fine Mall runs for 4 m. 
through the station, forming part 
of the Grand Trunk Road. Near 
the club is a memorial statue of the 
late Queen \'ictoria. The English 
Church is about i m. from the 
railway station, and near by is 
the Scotch Church, which was 
built some years ago. The Fort is 
about m. S. of that again. The 
Ptihlic Garden by this is a park of 
40 acres, with a low forest well 
preserved, and close by are the 
Golf Links, w'hich consist of 18 
holes. The town has nothing 
very remarkable in it. 

Raw'alpindi is the start! ng- 
place for Murree.^lc 37 m. distant ; 
there is now a motor as well as 
a tonga service to it. There are 
two D.Bs. on the road — one at 
Ba akao, 13 m., and the other 


■ at Tret, 26 m. from Rawalpindi, 

I Murree ^ is the N. sanatonum of 
] 1 :he Punjab and the headquarter^ 

I of the Northern Army in the 
^ summer. Barracks were erected 
in 1853. 'The houses are built 
! on the summit and sides of 
' an irregular ridge, and com- 
, mand magnificent views over 
I forest-clad hills into deep valleys, 
i studdoii 'With villages and culti- 
; vated fields, with the sno\v-covercd 
! peaks of Kashmir in the back- 
I ground. The highest point of the 
j station is 7507 ft. above the 
I sea-level, and the loftie-st peaks 
j behind the .sanatorium attain a 
! height of over yooo ft. The 
j climate is well adapted for Fnglish- 
j men, the lowest recorded tempera- 
I tiire being 21°, the highest 96°. 

The stationarv population was 
at the census in March 1911 only 
in the summer season 
rose to 16,034, There is v^ry little 
game now to be fouml in the hills. 
The camps and small stations in 
the hills N.W. of Murree, knowm 
as the Galies (Barian, Ghora Dacca, 

! Khanopur, Doonga, Changlagali, 
i Khairagali, end Nathiagali), are 
I most convcnit-ntly reached from 
; Murree. The most Northerly ot 
j them, Nathiagali, is the summer 
I residence of the Chief Commis- 
I sioner of the N.W. Frontier 
I Province. The walks through 
j the Galies are lovely in spring 
j — nothing in the wdiole Himalayas 
! IS more beautiful. 

I Rawalpindi is also the starting- 
place for Kashmir by Murree and 
the Jhelum Valley. This is the 
best route into the country (see 
Route 17). 

9 m beyond Raw'alpindi, on an 
eminence above the little Margala 
Pass, is the monument of General 
John Nicholson, with the following 
inscription : — 

! Erected b\ friend*;, British and Native, 

I to t)ie memory of Brigadier-General John 
j Nicholson, C.B., who, after taking a hero’s 


^ At the S.E. point of the station lies the 
-Murree Lawrence School 



MURREE 




RO UTE I 5. GOER A S AR AI KAL A - -TAXII.A 


331 


part in four great wars, ft,!! mortally 
wounded, in leading to victory the main 
Column .>f assault at the great siege of F^elhi. 
and died 2rnd Septern’t^er 1357, aged 34 ' 


1 88 m. Golra junction for 
the line to Khushalgarh, 79 m 
from Rawalpindi, Kohat, iii m,, 
Hangu, 137 m., and Thai, 173 
m., at the entrance to the Kurram 
Valley. At Basal (56 m.) the line 
lb crossed by that from Campbell- 
piir (p. 334), which, with the 
Smd-Sagar Railway, serves the 
whole of the position of the left 
bank of the Indus. From Kala- 
bagh, on a short branch line from 
Kundian, a light raihvav w^s re- 
quired to join with (S3 m.) Bannu, 
commanding the ToJii route. At 
Khushalgarh (79 m ) the Indus as 
{'rossed by a cantilever bridge, 
with a roadw^ay over the railway, 
tile river flowing through a deep, 
!x)ld gorge : the raihvav from this 
point to Kohat has been converted 
to the broad gauge : beyond 
Kohat, as far as Thai, the line 
IS of the 2 ft n in gauge. f')n 
the N. side of the road at Kohta 
are the lulls ol the Jowaki Afridis 
against wdiom a campaign w^as 
waged in 1873-6, and \ , beyond 
Ivohat, is the Samana Range of the 
^ )rak2ai, against whom campaigns 
Were undertaken in 1SS9 and 1892, 
and again on the occasion of the 
Tirah Afridi expedition m 1897. 
Tile Kurram Valley, to which the 
route beyond Thai leads, was 
detached from Afghanistan in 
1S79, but was not taken under 
direct British management till 
thirteen years later. The Safed 
Koh Mountains, with the grand 
peak of Sika Ram, rise magnifi- 
cently along the N. side of the 
vallev. 


194 m Saraikala junction (D.B ) 
for the line to Havelian, and sta- 
tion for tile rums of Taxila {ancient 
Takshasila). Fiefreshment and 
waiting-rooms at station and small 
P.W.D. Bungalow about i m. 
away, permission to onnipv w^hicii 


’ may be obtained trom the Kxecu- 
; tive Engineer, Raw^alpindi Dis- 
; trict. Less than J m. from the 
station is the Archaeological Office, 
; wffiere permits can be had to view 
the excavations. The remains of 
^ Taxila lie to the E. of the railway 
' and are spread over an area of 
; some 25 sq. m. Besides other 
monuments they comprise three 
! distmet cities. The earliest of 
these is situated on the Bir mound 
lat the N. end of w'hich stand the 
I Archaeological Office and bunga- 
low’), and w^as in occupation prob- 
I ably Ironi the second or third 
I miliennium b.c. until about 180 
^ B.c. The second city, known as 
, Sirkap, IS on tlie further side of the 
j Tamrah Xala {Tibero-yialo or Ti- 
I bevo-potamos oi the Greek histori- 
‘ ans), and appears to have been 
I built by the Greeks and to have 
I been occupied successively by the 
[ Greeks, the Scythians, the Par- 
j tluan^ and the early Kushans. 
j Hie third city, now called Sirsukh, 

I about I m. N E. of Sirkap, was 
probably founded by the Great 
I Kushan Emperor Kanislika (2nd 
century a.d.) and flourished for 
some five centuries or more. It 
\vas in this citv that the Chinese 
pilgrim, Hiuen Thsang, sojourned 
and from it that the distances and 
ilirections to the various monu- 
ments described by him are calcu- 
lated. Besides these three cities, 
to each of wffiich the name of 
{ Taxila (Takshasila) was trans- 
I ferred in succession, various other 
j outlying monuments have recently 
j been excavated, the most impor- 
I rant among them being the Chir 
Tope near the village of Shahpur, 
on the S. side of the Hathial spur, 
a massive temple with Ionic pillars 
at Jandial, and tw’O groups of 
Buddhist buildings, the one in a 
defile m the hills near the village of 
Mora Moradu, about i m. S.E, of 
Sirsukh, and the other on a hill near 
the village of Jaolian, about tw'enty 
minutes’ w^alk from it. 

To visit all the remains now 
brought to light at Taxila tw’O days 


332 


ROUTE 1 6 . LAHORE TO PESHAWAR 


India 


are required. At present the 
roads are unmetalled, and, except 
in good weather and when they 
have recently been repaired, are 
not suitable for motor-cars. A 
“ Bareilly ” cart can generally be 
obtained at Saraikala, but it is 
advisable to arrange for it in ad- 
vance. In this and other matters 
the Overseer of the Archaeological 
Bungalow gives whatever assist- 
ance he can. Assuming that a 
visitor has only five or six hours 
to spare, a good plan is to drive 
to the CMr Tope, thence walk (about 
I m.) through a defile in the hills to 
the stupa of Kunala, and afterwards 
descend into the city of Sirkap. 
The conveyance can meanwhile go 
round to the N. side of Sirkap, and 
having rejoined it the visitor can 
drive to the Temple of Jandial, and 
thence to Mora Moradu and Jao- 
lian. The kachcha road passes 
within about i m. of the two last- 
mentioned places, and thence a 
footpath leads across the fields. 

The remains at the Chir Tope 
(ancient name Dharmarajika stupa) 
comprise a large number of Bud- 
dhist stupas, chapels and monastic 
dwellings. In the centre is the 
Main Stupa, erected in the ist cen- 
tury B.C., but subsequently en- 
larged and repaired. The decorative 
stone facing on the E. side dates 
from about the 4th century. 
Around the main edifice there 
originally stood a circle of small 
stupas, but, as they fell to decay, 
a series of chapels was constructed 
on their ruins, and numerous other 
stupas and chapels were erected 
round about, with a monastery 
(not yet excavated) to the N. The 
buildings on this site are of special 
antiquarian interest, as they are 
constructed in various styles ^ of 
masonry, and as their relative ages 
have been ascertained they ofier 
reliable data for fixing the age of 
many other monuments in this 
part of India. Among them the 
visitor should notice in particular 
the chapel in the K.E. corner wdth 


the remnants of a colossal figure 
of the Buddha which once stood 
between 30 ft. and 40 ft. in height, a 
small apsidal temple on the W. side 
of the Main Stupa, and a chapel not 
far from it, where relics of the Bud- 
dha, accompanied by an inscription 
on a silver scroll (of the year 136), 
were discovered. 

The Stupa of Eunala is said to 
have commemorated the sf^ot 
where Kunala, the son of the Em- 
peror Asoka and Viceroy of Taxila, 
had his eyes put out through the 
guile of his step-mother Tishya- 
rakshita. The story, which re- 
I sembles that of Phaedra and Hip- 
j polytus, is told by Hiuen Thsang. 

I The original monument on this 
I site is only about 10 ft. in height, 
and can be seen emerging from the 
I core of the larger structure on its 
W. side. It dates probably from 
the 1st century a.d, ; the larger 
structure was built around it in 
the 4th century a.d. and ex- 
tended over the ruins of the an- 
cient city wall. An exceptional 
feature of this later stupa is the 
inward curvature of the walls — 
an idea which was perhaps bor- 
rowed from the Greeks but mis- 
applied. Immediately to the W. 
of the stupa is a spacious monas- 
tery. From the Kunala stupa a 
fine bird’s-eye view can be obtained 
of the lower city of Sirkap and the 
broad Haro Valley beyond. The 
monument about 5 m. distant on 
the last spur of the hills bounding 
the valley on the N., is the famous 
Stupa of the Head-gift, now known 
as the Bhalar stupa, in the monas- 
tery belonging to which Kumaral- 
abda composed his Buddhist 
treatise. The monastery is still 
in process of being excavated. 

The remains excavated in Sir- 
kap comprise the main street 
running N. and S., with the forti- 
fications at its N. end and a variety 
of buildings separated by lanes 
laid out with considerable regu- 
^ larity. The buildings now visible 



ROUTE l6. REMAlKb 01 TAXILA 


333 


on the surface belong mainly to 
the Partlnan and early Kuslian 
period. Beneath them are other 
buildings of the Scythian period 
and below these again others of 
the Greek period. Among the 
latest remains are a numfcr of 
houses, several small shrines, be- 
lieved to be Jaina, a large Bud- 
dhist apsidal temple, and a palace 
closely resembling in plan the 
palaces of Assyria. The houses 
were two or three - storeyed and 
divided into several open courts, 
with a series of chambers around 
each. Their size suggests that 
they were occupied either by 
several families or by professors 
with their numerous pupils, for 
Taxila was the most famous seat 
of learning in ancient India and at- 
tracted students from far and near 
A curious feature of the houses, 
which is noticed also by Philo- 
stratus in his Life of Apollonhts, 
IS that the rooms on the lowest 
floor are in the nature of tahkhanas, 
access to which was provided by 
trap-doors from the chambers 
above. Large numbers of anti- 
quities, including all sorts of do- 
mestic utensils, have been found 
in the buildings. Noteworthy 
among them are an Aramaic in- 
scription of about 400 B.C., a head 
in silver of the Greek god Dionysus, 
a bronze statue of Harpocrates, 
the Egyptian child-god of silence, 
and a fine collection of gold 
jewellery, including good specimens 
oi Greek workmanship. 


The Temple at Jandial dates 
from about the beginning of the 
Christian era, and is planned hke a 
Greek temple, with the addition of 
a sohd tower or ziggxtnit between 
the naos and opisthodomos, from 
which the rising and setting sun 
could be observed. This and other 
considerations (notably, the ab- 
sence of images) point to the con- 
clusion that it was a temple of the 
2oroastrian fire-worshippers, who 
must have been numerous at 


j Taxila during the Scythic and 
I Parthian periods. It is possible 
I that this is the temple described 
I by Philostratus where Apollomus 
is said to have waited before enter- 
ing the city of Taxila, though it 
does not tally with his descrip- 
I tions in all particulars, 
i 

; The Buddhist stupas and mon- 
I asteries at Mora Moradu and 
Jaolian are the best-preserved 
monuments of their kind and age 
in India. Those at Alova Aloradu 
were first erected in the 2nd cen- 
tury A.D., but largely renovated and 
repaired two or three centuries 
later ; it is to the later period that 
the images and reliefs which adorn 
the walls belong. The monastery 
was two-storeyed and consisted of 
a spacious court surrounded by 
cells, with several additional cham- 
bers on its E. side. One of the 
j latter served as a bath-room and 
another as a refectory. In one of 
the cells of the larger court is a 
perfect specimen of a stupa, with 
all its umbrellas complete, and in 
the same court are several inter- 
esting groups of stucco figures. 
The main stupa to the W of the 
j monastery is chiefly remarkable 
I for the masterly stucco rehefs of 
I the Buddha and his attendants, 
which still survive on its S. side. 
From it a charming view is ob- 
tained of the ]Mora Moradu gorge 
and valley of the Haro below. 
The remams at Jaolian are of the 
! same character as those of Mora 
I IMoradu, but the stupa is enclosed 
[ by courts surrounded by a series of 
; chapels, and there are numerous 
smaller stupas adorned with a 
! wealth of stucco rehefs. On the 
I other hand, none of the sculptures 
I here is so masterly as that at Mora 
[ IMoradu. In one of the smaller 
I stupas (to the S. of the main edi- 
I flee) w'as discovered a remarkable 
I relic casket of lime plaster, painted 
■ and studded with gems. Among 
i the antiquities found in the mon- 
i astery w'as a half-charred manu- 
I script of birch bark. 



334 


ROUTE 1 6. LAHORE TO PESHAWAR 


India 


209 m. from Lahore is Hassau 
Ahdal station (D.B.), famous for 
the so-called Lalla Rookh‘s ^ tomb, 
which is close by ; also on account 
of the spring of Baba Walt, or, as 
the Sil^s call it, Panja Sahib. 
Baba Wah was a Musalman saint, 
and the legend is that Baba Nanak, 
the founder and Guru of the Sikhs, 
had a dispute with Baba Wali, and 
summoned the spring from the 
top to the bottom of the hill by 
placing his hand on the rock and 
invoking it. (The impression of 
Guru Nanak’s hand is said to have 
remained ever since, and at one 
end of the tank there is a rude 
representation of a hand in relief 
on a rock, from underneath which 
the water flows into the tank.) 
This is one of those attractive 
places to which each religion in 
succession has attached its legends, 
and it has been appropriated 
in turn by Buddhist, Brahman, 
Muhammadan, and Sikh. The 
shnne of the Rlusalman saint Pir 
Wah Kandahari is on the peak of 
a lofty and precipitous hill, at the 
N.W. foot of which numerous 
springs of hmpid water gush out 
of the ground. 

The Panja Sahib is at the E. 
entrance to the town, on the right 
hand, about ^ m. 'from the D.B. 
The road to it through the town 
passes through roughly - paved 
streets, and then leads down to a 
clear, rapid brook, crossed by 
stepping-stones. A Sikh temple 
has been constructed at the tank, 
which is a beautiful pool of water 
canopied with mulberry and pipal- 
trees of large size, and full of 
mahsir, some of them as big as 
a 15-lb. salmon. The walk now 
leads some 250 yds. along the 
stream, past some ruins of Jahan- 
gir, and past another pool, to Lalla 
Rookh's tomb, which is very 
plain, and stands in a garden 
surrounded by a wall, with four 

i The labt poem in Lalla Rookh^ that of 
the “ Fair Nurmahal,” was recited by the 
disguised Prince at Hassan Abdal. 


slim towers, one at each corner ; 
the enclosure is well filled with 
trees, amongst which is a cypress 
more than 50 ft. high. 

From Hassan Abdal to Ahhotta- 
had (D.B.), 44 m. by metalled road ; 
via Havelian. This is the motor 
road to Abbottabad. There is nb 
regular tonga service. 

Atohottahad is a pretty hill 
station, about 4000 ft. in eleva- 
tion, the headquarters of a brigade 
of Gurkha Infantry and Mountain 
Artillery. 

There is a metalled road through 
Abbottabad to Kashmir, via 
Domel, and, though there is no 
regular tonga service, the journey 
can be performed by tonga, if 
ordered in advance, or by motor. 

A branch line of the N.W. Rail- 
way from Saraikala on the main 
line (Kala-ki-sarai) to Havelian, 
9 m. from Abbottabad, has been 
completed. The shortest route 
to Abbottabad is now by tonga 
from Havelian 

The name of Abbottabad is 
derived from Major James Abbott, 
who (1849-53) pacified the dis- 
trict on its first annexation. 

At Haripur, 20 m. from Hassan 
Abdal, is a memorial to Colonel 
Canara, who was killed defending 
his guns against the Sikh insur- 
gents in 1848. 

The following hill stations are 
reached from Abbottabad by 
roads not practicable for wheeled 
traffic : — 


Thandiani . . i6 m. 

Nathiagali . . 20 m. 

Doongagali . . 22 m. 

^ Changlagali . . 30 m. 


There are hotels at Abbottabad, 
Doongagali, and ChanglagaU. 

230 m, from Lahore is Camphell- 
pur. There is a Cantonment here. 
Campbellpur is also the head- 
quarters of the Attock district, and 
on the hne to Kundian (p. 325). 



houte i6. attock 


335 


241 m. from Lahore is Attock ; to rise 90 ft. in flood near the 
Bridg-e station (D.B.), i m. below j fort, where the channel becomes 
the to^vn and fort. Attock is a | very narrow. 

small town (population 630) and j The Fort, situated on a corn- 
fortress of some military import- ! manding height, overhanging the 
ance. The railwav crosses the E. bank of the Indus, and a little 



Indus by a very fine Iron Girder 
Bridge, which was difhcult to con- 
struct, owing to the rapidity of 
the current and the height above 
the water. The rails are on the 
top of the girders, and there is a 
passage for road traffic below. 
Each end is protected by a fortified 
gate. The river has been known 


to the S. of the point where it 
receives the Kabul River on the W. 
bank, is very extensive, and has 
a most imposing appearance. It 
was built by the Emperor Akbar 
in 1586, who also established the 
ferry which it commands. Maha- 
raja Ranjit Singh occupied the 
place in 1813, and it remained in 




ROUTE l6. LAHORE TO PESHAWAR 


India 


336 


the hands of the Sikhs till the 
British conquest of 1849. It is 
now held by a small European 
detachment. Leave can be ob- 
tained to walk round the ramparts; 
this is well worth doing on account 
of the picturesque views to be 
obtained, which extend N.W. as 
far as the distant peaks of the 
Safed Koh. 

To the N. of the fort is an old 
sarai, now in ruins. 

A ravine to the S. divides the 
sarai from the higher hill on which 
the fort stands. 

S. of the fort is another ravine, 
which separates it from the village 
of Mullahi Tola, the ferrymen’s 
quarter. 

The hills that line the river near 
Attock have old round towers and 
ruined forts dotted about them, 
and the Attock Fort, seen from 
them, resembles an ancient bar- 
onial castle. Some years ago a 
very strong fortified position was 
created on the hills on both sides 
of the river, but this fortification 
is probably now rather out of 
date. 

Outside the fort, to the W , is 
the tomb of a Diwan of the saint 
Abdul- Kadir Gilani. It stands in 
a small enclosure on the edge of a 
cliff. 

A trip by boat down the Indus 
to Khushalgarh, or to Kalabagh 
and Mari, will afford picturesque 
views of the deep, dark gorges of 
the Indus. Application should be 
made some days beforehand to 
the Deputy-Commissioner, Camp- 
bellpur, for a boat and crew for 
the voyage. 


2 j4 m. Khairahad station (R.), 
fine retrospect of a railway bridge 
and the Attock Fort. 


261 m. Naushahra station (D.B.), 
is the headquarters of a sub- 
division of the same name in 
Peshawar District, on the right 
side of the Kabul River. The 


( Cantonment is on the banks of the 
river. About 2 m. distant on the 
Grand Trunk Road is a ruined fort 
built by the Sikhs. 

From Naushahra a railway 
(2 ft. 6 in. gauge) runs past the 
modern cavalry Cantonment of 
Risalpur and (15 m.) Hoti Mardan 
to Dargai (40 m.), at the foot of the 
Malakand Pass, now a fortified 
position, which was the scene of 
severe fighting in the Chitral cam- 
paign of 1896 and in the subse- 
quent rising of the Swat tribes. 
10 m. beyond the Malakand crest, 
on the farther bank of the Swat 
River, is the Fort of Chakdarra, so 
desperately defended against the 
Swat tribes in 1897. The country 
round is full of ruined Buddhist 
remains and sculptures, of which 
many beautiful specimens were 
secured by Sir Harold Deane, late 
Chief Commissioner of the N.W. 
Frontier Province, and many of 
them are now to be seen in the 
museum at Peshawar. 


Hoti Mardan, the headquarters 
of Queen Victoria's Own Corps of 
Guides, The officers' mess con- 
tains a very fine collection of 
Graeco- Buddhist sculptures, partly 
found in the digging of the Swat 
Canal (see A. Foucher, Sur la 
Frontidre Indo - Afghane, Paris, 
1901). 

7 m. N.E. of Hoti Mardan is the 
famous rock of Shahbazgarhi, 
24 ft by 10 ft., situated about 80 ft. 
up a slope, with one of the great 
Asoka inscriptions (Introd., p. 
Ixxxi) . 

At 24 m. from Naushahra, at 
Takht-i-Bahai, an isolated hill 
rising 650 ft., are the remains of a 
Buddhist monastery (see Fergus- 
son’s Indian Architecture, i, 210), 
and another at Shahr-i-Bahlol at 
its foot. Shahr-i-Bahlol has been 
further excavated lately, and a 
large number of fine Buddhist 
carvings, images, and sculptures 
found there and at Takht-i-Bahai 
are in the Peshawar Museum. 



ROUTE l6. PESHAWAR 


274 m. Pal)bi station. 23 m. 
from here is Cherat (D.B.), a hill 
Cantonment and sanatorium for 
Peshawar, 4500 ft. above sea- 
level. The temperature seldom 
exceeds 90° even in the hottest 
season. A tonga runs between 
Pabbi and Chera't twice daily in 
the hot weather. 

285 m. Peshawar City station. 

288 m. Peshawar Cantonment 
station^ (D.B.), lat. 34° i', long. 
71° 37'’ (97^935 inhabitants, chiefly 
Muhammadans). This place, tl^e 
headquarters of the first Army 
Division, the most important 
frontier city of India, and the 
residence of the Chief Commis- 
sioner of the N.W. Frontier Pro 
Vince, at present the Hon. Lieuten- 
ant-Colonel Sir G. Roos Keppel, 
K.C.I.E., is both interesting and 
picturesque. It stands upon a 
ridge above the plain, stretching 
towards the mountains, on the left 
bank of the Bara stream, m. 
S.W. of the junction of the Swat 
and Kabul Rivers, and 10^ m. E. 
of Jamrud Fort, at the entrance 
of the Khyber Pass Kabul is 
190 m. distant from here. The 
K.W. Frontier Province includes 
the Districts of Hazara, Peshawar, 
Kohat, tBannu, and Dera Ismail 
Khan, and the Agencies of Dir, 
Swat, and Chitral, Khyber, Kur- 
ram, Tochi, and Wana. 

Peshawar is the ancient capital 
of the Gandhara Province, in 
which the Mahayana Buddhists 
(p. Ixxxii) arose. To the E. of the 
city are the mounds of Shahjiki- 
dheri, covering ruins of the largest 
Buddhist stupa in all India (285 ft. 
from side to side), in which a relic 
casket of King Kanishka, contain- 
ing some of the ashes of Buddha, 
was discovered in 1909. This 
casket is now in the Peshawar 
Museum, which contains a number 
of treasures in sculpture. The 
Pathans made their appearance 
about the 8th century, and the 
present tribes settled in the 15 th 


337 

century. Sabaktagin, Prince of 
Ghazni, conquered Raja Jaipal 
here in 978, and his more famous 
son Mahmud conquered this Prince 
again and his son Anandpol in 
1001 and 1008, and Babar passed 
through it in 1519 a.d. The old 
name of Parashawar was changed 
by the Emperor Akbar, and till 
the reign of Aurangzeb the place 
was of great importance as com- 
manding the route to the Mughal 
Province of Kabul. The houses of 
the city are built of small bricks or 
mud, held together by a wooden 
framework to protect them from 
earthquakes, and the streets are 
irregular and tortuous. The 
Edwardes, or Kabul, Gate leads to 
the main Kissa Kahani street. 
The Ghoy Kkatn, which stands 
high in the N.E. corner of the city, 
was successively a Buddhist mon- 
astery and Hindu temple, and is 
now the Tahsil. The C.M.S. has 
an important school in the city, 
and a pretty Mission Church ; the 
Zenana Hospital is named after 
H.R.H. the late Duchess of Con- 
naught. ^The C.M.S. has also 
opened a College in the Canton- 
ment limits, a few paces to the 
N. of the Peshawar Cantonment 
station Outside the city, N.. is 
the square Bala Hissar Fort, with 
earthen walls 92 ft. high. From 
it and from the Ghor Khatri there 
is a very good view of the Pesha- 
war Valley and hills. At the 
Bajauri Gate is a fine building 
used as a normal school. The 
cemeteries are very numerous, and 
quite surround the city. 

The Islamia College has also 
been opened (in 1915) to the W. of 
the Peshawar Cantonment at a 
distance of nearly 3 m. on the 
Peshawar- Jamrud road, just oppo- 
site the Burj Hari Singh Police 
station : it is a very fine building. 
There is also a Zenana Hospital, 
maintained by the Peshawar Muni- 
cipality, inside the city, quite close 
to the Hashtnagri Gate. 

Peshawar has a great transit 
trade from Kabul and Bokhara 



ROUTE 1 6 . LAHORE TO PESHAWAR 


India 


338 

and Central Asia. The Bazars are 
well worth a visit, both for the 
objects they contain— many of 
them not seen in Central India — 
and for the fierce-iooking and 
picturesquely-dressed natives from 
Afghanistan and Central Asia. 

The special manufacture of 
Peshawar is bright - coloured 
scarves, or lungis, worn as turbans. 
Waxcloth work and some orna- 
mental needlework are also made 
here, as well as knives and small- 
arms ; a special form of wood- 
carving also flourishes. 

The Cantonments, 2 m. W. of 
the city, and 3J m. long by m. 
broad, are situated on a slope 
towards the Khyber Pass. In 
them are a Public Garden, the 
Government House, and the Vic- 
toria Memorial building, now 
containing a museum of Buddhist 
remains. The rriuseum has a very 
fine collection of Graeco -Buddhist 
sculptures and other antiquities, 
most of which were excavated at 
Shahr-i-Bahlol and Takht-i-Bahai 
by Dr D. B. Spooner, who also 
arranged them on scientific lines 
and published an illustrated Hand- 
book to the Sculptures in the Pesha- 
war Museum (Bombay, 1910 ; 
R.i). The relic-casket of King 
Kanishka will be shown to visitors 
on application to the Curator, 
The main roads are lined with 
trees, and in the spring, when the 
roses and fruit-trees are in bloom 
and the fresh winter snows stand 
up grandly to the N. and W., the 
place is extremely beautiful. The 
lines of the native troops are situ- 
ated at the Eastern and Western 
extremities of the Cantonment, and 
the barracks of the British troops 
in the centre. The Roman Catho- 
lic and Anglican Churches lie 
towards the W. end of the Mall, 
and the Club is close to the latter. 
Near the railway station is the 
grave of a naugaza (nine yard) 
saint. And near, at the E. end 
of the Mall, is an obelisk to 
the memory of Colonel Mackeson 


C.B., Commissioner of the Pesha- 
war Division, who was murdered 
by an Afghan in 1853. Farther 
on, beyond the pretty cricket- 
ground, were the District Courts, 
partly accommodated in the old 
Residency, and surrounded by a 
garden ; the former have been 
moved to near the Jail, and the 
buildings are now used as military 
offices. 

On the outbreak of the Mutiny 
in May 1857 Brigadier - General 
Sydney Cotton was in command at 
Peshawar, Colonel (afterwards Sir 
Herbert) Edwardes being Com- 
missioner, and John Nicholson 
Deputy-Commissioner. These de- 
cided that the formation of a 
Movable Column was necessary. 
Sir John Lawrence approved 
of this, and the Column was at 
once constituted, under the com- 
mand of Colonel Neville Chamber- 
lain (afterwards Field - Marshal 
Sir Neville Chamberlain, G.C.B.), 
then commanding the Panjab 
Frontier Force, and later, under 
General Nicholson, was responsible 
for rendering harmless or destroy- 
ing most of the dangerous mutin- 
ous elements still left in the Pan- 
jab. Besides the native troops 
in the Peshawar Cantonment, 
there were large numbers else- 
where in the valley, amounting in 
all to nearly 10,000, against which, 
fortunately, could be set a force 
of 2500 British at Peshawar and 
Naushahra. On the news of the 
half-hearted mutiny of the 55th 
Native Infantry at Naushahra on 
2 1st May it was determined to 
disarm the native regiments in 
Peshawar, and this was quietly 
and effectually done at two separ- 
ate parades on the 24th, under the 
rifles of a British regiment sup- 
ported by guns. The Naushahra 
men allowed themselves to be led 
to Mardan, where two companies 
had already taken the place of the 
Guides marching to Delhi ; and 
on a firing Column advancing from 
Peshawar, with John Nicholson as 
! Political Officer, to disarm them. 



ROUTE l6. KHYBER PASS 


the whole regiment broke away in 
wild flight to the hills, many being 
captured or killed on the way, and 
most of the rest perishing in Swat 
and Boner. 

There is capital hunting at 
Peshawar throughout the winter. 
The climate at this season is often 
very cold, and demands warm 
clothes- 

(i) The Khyher Pass. — If per- 
mission can be obtained, this ex- 
pedition should not be omitted, as 
no description can convey a real 
idea of the natural strength and 
wildness of the pass. Application 
must be made to the Political 
Agent, Klxyber. A tonga can now 
])roceed all the way to Ah Masjid, 
the farthest point to which visitors 
are allowed to go. The railway 
itself extends to Jamrud, and the 
tonga can be joined there if some 
train is convenient for this. The 
pass IS open only on certain days 
m the week (on Tuesdays and 
Fridays during the winter : and 
only on Fridays during the sum- 
mer), for the benefit of caravans, 
when it is guarded by the corps of 
Khyher Rifles — Afridis enlisted for 
the purpose Several fortified , 
posts, the chief of which are Ali 
Masjid and Landi Kotal (1700 ft. 
above sea-level), are held by them. 
Picturesque convoys of camels, | 
oxen, and asses, heavily laden with i 
well-poised loads, of goats and 
sheep, and of wild-looking men, 
w omen, and children, will be seen 
in the defiles. 

The Fort of Jamrud (1670 ft.), 
roj m., was rebuilt by Sirdar Hari 
Singh, and gallantly held against 
the Afghans till April 1837, when 
he was killed in battle against 
troops sent by Dost Muhammad. 
Between it and Peshawar is Burj 
Han Singh, near which the body 
of the fallen Sikh leader was 
cremated. 

To the S. of the fort is the 
defensible post occupied by the 
Khybcr Rifles here, and towards 
the hills on this side are seen a 


339 

large number of Afridi villages. 
The road first passes a small 
Muhammadan shrine with fine 
heads of Markhor placed on the 
tomb, and ascends a ravine to the 
crest known as Mackeson’s Ridge, 
from which it descends again to 
the bed of the real Khyber stream, 
which enters the plains some wa}" 
S. of Jamrud. From here the 
heights of Tartarra (6800 ft.), on 
i the N, side of the real Khyber 
Pass, are finely seen, and, farther 
on, from the Shagai Ridge, the 
cliffs and fort of Ali Masjid 
(2433 ft.). The pass is exceed- 
ingly narrow, and is hemmed in 
by cliffs on either side, those on 
the Ali Masjid side being ex- 
tremely fine. The road goes up 
the pass along the left bank, and 
above it runs through the desolate 
narrow valley of Lalabeg ^ till 
Landi Kotal (3373 ft.) is reached. 
From here a steep descent of 2000 
ft. leads to Landi Khana, in Afghan 
territory, the boundary being 6 m. 
from the Kotal. A fine view of the 
valley, which runs from Dakka up 
to Jalalabad, named after Akbar, 
and renowmed for its defence by 
Sir R. Sale from 12 th November 
1841 to 7th April 1842, is obtained 
from the Pisgah Peak (4500 ft.), 
to the N.M' of Landi Kotal. 

The Khyber Pass, of which the 
Sikhs and the native troops of the 
British army had a great dread, 
was forced by General Pollock, 
with an army 8000 strong, early 
in April 1842, the heights on both 
sides being carefully crowned ; and 
the same measures protected our 
army on its retirement in Novem- 
ber of the same year. At the 
opening of the Second Afghan 
War, in November 1878, Ali 
Masjid was attacked by the force 
under General Sir Sam Browne on 
2 1 St November, and was deserted 
at night by the enerav. It was 
held by the Khyber Rifles from 
1890-6, when it was allowed to be 

1 Below Masjid and at Lalabe;^ are 
some Buddhist stupas. 



ROUTE 17. 


KASHMIR 


India 


taken by the Khyber tribesmen, 
and is now held again by the recon- 
stituted Rifles ; Landi Kotal is, 
however, the more important post. 
The Khyber Rifles, furnished by 
the various clans of the Afridis, 
now consist of one battalion of 
1800 men under British officers. 

The clans of the Khyber Afridis 
are the Zakka Khel, Kuki Khei, 
Malikdin, Kamrai, Kambar Khel, 
Sipah, and Aka Khel, numbering 
20,000 fighting ■ men. Besides 
these, this great tribe includes the 
Aka Khel and the Adam Khel, who 
are not directly connected with the 
Khyber Pass. N. of the Kabul 
River is the Mohmand tribe, and 
S. of Tirah are the Orakzais, sepa- 
rated from the Kohat district by 
the Samana Range. 

(2) Bara(D.B.). — A visit may be 
paid to Bara {j m.), from which 
place good water has now been 
brought to Peshawar in a conduit 
made of blocks of concrete. At 
intervals of ^ m. there are small 
towers for ventilation. There is 
a mud fort at 6 m. S.W, of the 
Cantonment, close to the pass, 
from which the water comes. At 
Pusht-i-Khar, half - way between 
Peshawar and Bara, is an aqueduct 
bridge. 

There are other forts at the 
mouths of passes into the hills 
— such as Michni, Shabkadar, and 
Abazai ; but permission to visit 
them is necessary. 

Abazai protects the headworks 
of the canal from the Swat River, 
which joins the Kabul River at 
Nisatha, 15 m. N.E. of Peshawar. 

(3) Persons accustomed to a 
hard day in the saddle will enjoy 
a ride of 37 m. from Peshawar 
through the Kohat Pass to Kohat 
(1767 ft.), (D.B.), 5 m. from the S. 
base of lie Tirah Mountains. The 
crest of the pass is 2800 ft. high. 

There is a R.H. at Aimal 
Chabutra, 20 m. from Peshawar. 
Fort Mackeson lies on the left of 
the road, N. of Aimal Chabutra. 


ROUTE 17. 

KASHMIR, and some of the routes 

into that country.^ 

General Description. — The Valley 
of Kashmir is an oval plain, some 
84 m. in length and 20 m. to 25 m. 
in breadth, at an average height of 
about 6000 ft., and entirely sur- 
rounded by the lofty, snowy outer 
ranges of the Karakoram and 
Himalaya. Up to the end of May, 
and sometimes by the beginning 
of October, there is a continuous 
ring of snowy peaks around the 
valley, the principal being — N. of 
the Wular Lake, Nanga Parbat, 
26,620 ft. ; £., Haramukh, 16,900 
ft., and Amamath, 17,320 ft , S., 
the Panjal range, with peaks of 
15,000 ft. ; and W., Kazi Nag. 
12,125 ft. These are all visible 
from the valley. Farther distant, 
but still in the territory of Lieu- 
tenant - General His Highness 
Maharaja Sir Pratap Singh 
Bahadur, of Jammu and Kashmir, 
G.C.S.I.,G C,1.E,.G B.E ,aremany 
peaks of over 20,000 ft., the highest 
of which is probably Mount Godwin 
Austen, 28,278 ft. In the Chitral 
State, about 200 m. N.W. of Srina- 
gar, is the peak Agram, 25,426 ft., 
in the Hindu Kush range. 

The Valley of Kashmir is 
watered by the Jhelum and its 
tributaries, which find an outlet 
in the gorge at Baramula, and 
finally join the Chenab and Indus 
in the Panjab. The soil is fertile. 
Rice and maize are the chief crops ; 
then come wheat, barley, and 
orchard or garden produce. The 
safiron {Crocus sativus) is famous 

1 The best guide-book of Kashmir is 
by Dr Arthur Neve. Lieut. -Colonel J 
Duke’s Guide, since revised by 
author, may also be commended. 








341 


ROUTE 17. KASHMIR, 

for its bouquet, and its cultivation 
is an ancient industry. The fioat- 
ing gardens of the Dal Lake are 
made of long strips of the lake 
reed, which are moored at the 
four corners by poles dnven into 
the lake bed, heaps of weed and 
mud being then formed into small 
cones on the reeds Melons, 
tomatoes, and cucumbers grow 
upon these cones with astonishing 
vigour. The singhara, or water 
chestnut, grows wild in the Wular 
and Dal lakes ; the kernel, which 
IS white and meal}^ is either 
ground into flour or parched, and 
so eaten. All the fruits and vege- 
tables of temperate climes grow 
well in the valley. The mulberry, 
bitter cherry, plum, apple, pear, 
grape, walnut, and pomegranate 
are indigenous ; the apricot and 
peach have spread all over the 
valley since their introduction. 
The forest trees grow to a great 
size. The principal among them 
are the deodar (the best, but not 
common), the blue pine, spruce, 
and silver fir, the elm, walnut, 
poplar, maple, wallow, mulberry, 
horse-chestnut, and plane (or 
chenar), which is the special glory 
of the valley. 

The climate is delightful in 
the early summer. In July and 
August, although the thermo- 
meter does not usually nse above 
90°, the stillness of the air causes 
the heat to be oppressive in the 
valley, and then the mosquitoes 
make up for their comparative!}' 
mild sting by their enormous num- 
bers. At this period visitors are 
glad to ascend to the upland 
plateaux — Gulmarg, Sonamarg (in 
the Sind Valley), Nagmarg, Pail- 
gam (at the head of the Liddar 
I'alley), and Gurais. The plea- 
santest months in Srinagar, with a 
latitude of 34° 5' N., are April, 
^^ 3 .y. June, October, and Novem- 
ber. The spring months are 
showery, July and August are 
sometimes rainy, and the snows set 
m about Christmas time. The 
cold in winter is sometimes severe. 


HISTORY AND ROUTES 

In 1890-1 the thermometer fell 
below zero. In January and 
February 1893, and in 1915, there 
W'as skating all over the Dal Lake. 

One of the latest winters. Sir 
Walter Lawrence, says : "The 
valley contains nearly everything 
which should make life enjoyable. 
There is sport, varied and excellent, 
there is scenery for the artist and 
layman, mountains for the moun- 
taineer, flowers for the botanist, a 
vast field for the geologist, and 
magnifleent ruins for the archaeolo- 
gist. The epicure will find dainty 
fruits and vegetables cheaper here 
than perhaps in any part of the 
world, while the lounger can pass 
delightful days of dolce far mente 
in the mat house-boats moored 
under the shady chenar-tree.” 

The ])Opuiation of the valley 
IS i.ioo.ooo, of whom 126,000 in- 
habit the capital, Srinagar. The 
Muhammadans number about 
1,035,000 and the Hindus about 
64,900. 

History. — For many centuries 
Kashmir w'as ruled by Scythian 
Hindu Princes, 'who were succeeded 
by Tartars. In 1586 the country 
was conquered by the great 
Mughal Akbar and annexed to 
his Indian Empire. Akbar built 
the fort on Han Parbat Hill. His 
successor, Jahangir, made many 
expeditions to Kashmir, 'where he 
planted chenar - trees, and con- 
structed lovely pleasure - gardens. 
In 1753 Kashmir passed into 
the hands of the Durani Chiefs 
from Kabul, and in 1819 Maha- 
raja Ran jit Singh’s general, Misr 
Chand, defeated the Pa than 
Governor, Jabbar Khan, and 
annexed the country. In 1846. 
on the close of the First Sikh War, 
Kashmir was assigned by treaty 
to Maharaja Gulab Smgh. • 

Antiquities. — The chief ruins of 
Kashmir are those at Buniar, 
Patan, Pandrathan, Payee h, 
Avantipur, Martand, and Wan- 
gat. They exhibit traces of Greek 



342 


KASHMIR 


India 


ROUTE 17. 

influence, and are of great archaeo- 
logical interest {see Fergusson’s , 
Indian Architecture, i, 251-272). 1 

The Coins of Kashmir (now , 
obsolete) are worthy of notice.^ ' 


There are many Routes into : 
Kashmir, mostly from the S. and 
W. The following are the most t 
frequented : — 

1. From Rawalpindi tnd ^lurree ^ 
(p. 330) and the Baramnia Pass. , 

2. From Gujarat fp 324) via ' 

Bhimbar and Pir Panjal (see p. 

348) • 1 

3. From Jhelum (p. 327) via j 

Punch (see p. 349). I 

4. From Hassan Abdal (p. 334) I 

via Abbottabad (p. 334). i 

5. From Jammu (p. 32 f) (see , 

p- 350)- i 

(i) Mitrree Route to Kashmir. 


RawaJpindi 
By tonga to 


25jm Tret(D,B.) l f>om Murrce 
36! m. Sunny Bank I there is a short 
39jm. Murree j cut (bndle-path) 

64jm.Koliala{D.B.) (^ini,tead uf 29 m. 
76 m. Dulai (B.B.) 

854 m. Domel (D.B.) 

98{m Garhi (D.B.) 

109J m. Hattian 
1 15 m Chenari (D.B.) 

120 m. 20 ch. Chakothi (D.B.) 

133 m. 33 ch. Uri (D.B.) 

147 m. 20 ch. Rampur (D.B.) 

162 m. 21 ch. Baramula (D.B.) 

197 m. I ch. Srinagar (D.B.) - 


i 


The above are easy stages. ' 
There is a D.B. at every stage 
(except Hattian) with a Khan- I 
sama and European supplies. j 

1 The best book on the subject is Coins of ^ 
Kashmir, by Mr Rogers of Amritsar. i 

- If the traveller intends to go beyond j 
Srinagar, it will bp necessary for him to ' 
get a camp kit, ponies, etc. All this can be i 
arranged at .Srinagar, or by writing befoie j 
hand to Cockburn’s Agency, or the Kash- ' 
inirdeneral .-\gency," Srinagar. Theponie^ 
are procured from the Motamid Darbar. 


The usual time for the journey 
is three days, but it can be accom- 
plished in two days b)' motor from 
Rawalpindi. 

It is advisable to spend a day 
at Raw^alpindi or Murree to make 
arrangements for the journey. 

The road is w’ell metalled all the 
way, though liable to interruptions 
from landshps in wet w'eather. 

Fare for — three seats, 

Ks 124 ; one seat, Rs.41. 8 as. 
Tongas do not travel by night. 
Ekkas can be procured for ser\"ants 
or baggage for Rs.32. These prices 
arc from Raw^alpindi to Srinagar. 
Apply to Messrs Dhanjibhoy, 
Rawalpindi. The head of the 
firm is Mr Sorabji C. Dhanjibhoy, 
C.I.E. 

If the traveller intends to march 
into Kashmir b\’ stages, he can 
engage coolies at 6 as a stage, 
baggage pomes at 12 as. a stage, 
and riding ponies with saddles at 
Ks.2 a stage. There is also a 
motor-car servnee between Rawal- 
pindi and Srinagar 

The road ascends steadily from 
Barakao to (25 m.) Tret ^4000 ft.) 
and to (36 1 - m ) Sunny Bank 


39J m. Murree * (see p. 330) 
(7700 ft.), and then the road 
descends until the Jhelum River is 
reached at Kohala. 

27I m. from Sunny Bank is 
Kohala (2000 ft.) (D.B. good). 
The bridle-path by Dewal from 
Murree to Kohala is ii m. shorter 
than the tonga route. The road 
along the Jhelum Valley is hot 
m the summer months, so that 
travelling in the early morning or 
evening will be found the most 
agreeable. In addition to the 
very fine near scenery along this 
road, grand views of the snow'S 
may be obtained in April and 
May. 

After crossing the river by a 
lattice- girder bridge, built m 1905. 
ivhere toll is levied, the road as- 
cends the left bank all the way to 



Route 17. dulai — baramula 


343 


Baramulci. There is a good pic- 
turesque little D.B. at Dulai. 


Kashmir, and then the fort and 
village of Naushahra. 


II J m. on is Dulai. From here 
the road is cut in the face of the ! 
cliff, and is liable to be blocked by ■ 
landslips after rain. | 

9} m. on to Domel (D.B.), where | 
the route from Hassan Abdal 
(Route 4 below) joins in (left). Here ; 
the road turns E. at an acute angle, I 
where the Jhelum is joined by the I 
Kishanganga. About i m. N. is 
seen the town of Muzaffarabad, 
With one or two temples, and 
beyond it is the Sikh fort. 

12 J m. to Garhi (D.B. good). 
Late in the afternoon this march 
IS shaded by the high hills. 

II m. to Hattian. The scenery 
IS bolder and more beautiful. 

II m. 7 ch. to ChakotM (D.B.). 
There is a swing bridge below the 
bungalow. Soon after leaving 
Chakothi the rums of a mosque 
are passed, the carving of which 
was copied and sent to London 
for the Colonial Exhibition. 

13 m. 13 ch. to Uri (D.B. good). 
The Hajipir River, which falls 
into the Jhelum from the S., is 
here crossed. For the sake of the 
gradient the road makes a long j 
detour. The road to Punch viti j 
Haji pir Pass, 14 J m. to the pass, ^ 
branches oft at 71 m. of the , 
Jhelum Valley Road. | 

142] ni. liom Rawalpindi, be- i 
tween Vri and Rainpur, is the 
^^ater- power Station of the scheme 
wdiich provides the electric powder | 
used in Kashmir. i 

13 m. to Rampur (D.B. good). 
From here the road is compara- 
tively level. An ancient temple 
IS passed at Buniar, standing m a 
tine cloister, one of the most com- 
plete and interesting of all in , 


The head works, from ivhieh the 
water is taken out of the Jhelum 
and carried to the reservoir about 
the Power Station, are at 150 m. 
from Rawalpindi, about 3 m. be- 
yond Rampur and 12 m. before 
Baramula. 

15 m. I ch. to Baramula (D.B. 
good) Here Kadiiiiir dongas, or 
; house-boats, can be procured lor 
j the life on the river ; if it is desired 
j to make the iourney on to Srinagar 
I by such a boat, it is best to arrange 
j for one beforehand through the 
j above Agents. The larger dongas 
j may be hired for Rs.20 a month 
: (they let at anything up to Rs.30 
I per month) ; the smaller, generally 
1 used for kitchen and servants, cost 
Rs.15 a month. These prices in- 
clude four boat people to each 
boat. English house-boats cost 
Rs.30 to Rs.130 a month, accord- 
ing to accommodation and 
, wdiether furnished or not, or from 
! Rs.2oo to Rs.400 for the season, 
j exclusive of the wages of the crew. 
Some of them have every comfort. 

On leaving Baramula by boat 
Sopor is passed at the entrance 
to the Wular Lake. Fair mahsir 
fishing may be obtained here. 
Sopor is the starting - point for 
the Lolab Valley and Kagmarg. 
When the river is high boats go 
from Sopor to Shadipore by the 
Xoor Canal. If the water is in- 
sufficient for the canal, the Walar 
Lake should be crossed early in 
the day, as dangerous storms 
sometimes arise later. The Wular 
Lake is the largest m India, being 
124 m. long by 5 m. broad. From 
the Wular the boats join the river 
by a small canal, which leaves the 
river at Hajin. '5 m. N. of this 
is the Lanka Island, with the rums 
of an old temple. 6 m. up stream 
from Hajin is Sambal. This is the 
starting-point for the trip by boat 
to the exquisitely beautiiul Man- 
asbal Lake, with an old temple 



India 


344 


ROUTE 17. 


KASHMIR 


immersed in the water at the S.E. 
end of it. Shadipore is 4 m. up the 
river from Sambal, and Srinagar 
about 14 m. farther by the river. 
From Baramula to Srinagar by the 
Noor Canal takes little more than 
one day ; by the Wular Lake, two 
to three days. 

From Baramula the traveller 
can go by boat up the Pohru River 
to bunawin, the next day to 
Kuiangam, and the third day, if 
the river is full, to Awatkoola 
(very pretty scenery) . Sending the 
boat back to Sopor, a pleasant 
march may be made through the 
Lolab Valley as follows ; Awat- 
koola to Koopwara (8 m.) ; to 
Lalpur (12 m.), the capital of the 
Lolab Valley ; to Hay wan (9 m.) ; 
back to Sopor {10 m.) , and then 
on to Srinagar, as above. The 
Lolab Valley is very pretty, and 
the marches easy. Formerly 
black bears were numerous, especi- 
ally during the mulberry season, 
but they are not now so common. 

The journey by tonga from 
Baramula to Srinagar (34 m.) 
occupies 4^ hours. At 16 m. from 
Baramula is Pa tan, in which are 
rums of two temples of the 9th 
century. 

Srinagar ^ (erroneously derived 
from Suryanagar), lat. 34° 5', long. 
74° 51^ 5250 ft. above sea-level, 
is the capital of Kashmir State. 
It is beautifully situated in the 
centre of the “ Happy Valley,'" 
has a population of 126,300, and 
IS divided into two parts by the 
River Jhelum, along the banks of 
which it stretches for nearly 2 m. 
The river is crossed by quaint 
wooden bridges, but the first of 
these is rebuilt on masonry abut- 
ments and piers, and -its banks 
are lined with carved blocks of 
limestone, now, unfortunately, 
much defaced by time and neglect. 

The city, traversed by canals, 
was built by the Raja Pravarasen 
in the 6th century, and consists 
chiefly of wooden houses, some of 
them several storeys high, sur- 


I mounted by sloping roofs covered 
1 with earth. Within the Sher 
I Garhi, formerly surrounded by 
I massive walls containing the city 
I fort, is the summer residence of 
I the Maharaja. The Jami Masjid, 

{ near the Mar Nulla, is of consider- 
! able size, and of interest as being 
designed to be constructed in 
wood. All the pillars which sup- 
port the cloisters of the courtyard 
I are of deodar pine, “ honest 
wooden forms," with the remains 
of rich and beautiful car\ung. 
There is another wooden mosque 
in the city, the Shah Hamadan, - 
the roof of which is probably 
similar to that which covered the 
Temple of Martaud. Not far from 
it, on the opposite (left) bank of 
the river, is the stone mosque built 
by Nurjahan, wife of the Em- 
peror Jahangir, while below the 
fourth bridge is the tomb of Zain- 
ul-abidin. His Highness has 
constructed a Zenana Hospital in 
the city in memory of the Dia- 
mond Jubilee ©f the late Queen- 
Empress. 

A fine view of the city and its 
neighbourhood is obtained from 
the top of the Takht-i-Sulaiman 
(“ Throne of Solomon "), 6263 ft., 
— i.e., 987 ft. above the city — where 
there is a fine stone temple, said to 
be of great antiquity, but in its 
present form probably not earlier 
than the i6th century. The road 
to it lay along a famous poplar 
avenue, more than i m. in length ; 
but this was cut down some years 
ago. The Haii Parhat, an isolated 
hill on the N. outskirts of the city 
and 250 ft. above it, should also 
be ascended It is surrounded by 
an extensive wall, and surmounted 
by the Fort, built by Akbar at the 
end of the i6th century. 

Many good subjects for the 
artist may be found in Srinagar, 
but the smells in the town are 
often very trying. 

' The chief industries are those of 
i the wood-carvers, shawl-makers, 
i gold, silver, and copper smiths, 

! papier - mache makers, leather 







345 


Route 17. dal lake — pandrlthan 


workers, and dealers in precious 
stones. 

The Residency and the Euro- 
pean quarter he above the city and 
the highest bridge on the river. In 
the centre of the quarter is a fine 
ground for cncket and polo, pro- 
vided by the Maharaja ; on the X. 
side of this is Nedou's Hotel ; and 
at the N.E. comer ft the Takht-i- 
Sulaiman, with the entrance to the 
Dal Lake at its foot, not far from 
the C.M. Hospital. As a matter of 
etiquette, a call should be paid by 
visitors on the Resident. 


Excursions. 


(i) The first excursion should be 
to the Dal Lake, which is close to 
Srinagar, on the X.E,, and is one 
of the most beautiful spots in the 
world. The lake is about 4 m. 
long and 2^ m. broad. Skirting 
the W. and N. sides of the Takht-i- 
Sulaiman from the Dal Gate, and 
passing through a stretch of float- 
ing gardens, the Nishat Bagh will 
be first reached on the E. side of 
the lake. The terraces in this, the 
flights of steps ascending them, 
and the water falhng down them 
are extremely beautiful, and the 
first afford delightful glimpses of 
the lake. 2 m. farther on is the 
Shalimar Bagh, built by Jahangir, 
who lived there in the summer 
months with Nurjahan, “ The 
Light of the Harem."' They are 
fully described by Bernier. In 
crossing the lake to the W. side a 
fine view is obtained of the moun- 
tains behind these two gardens. 
Beyond a small island with chenar- 
trees lies the Nasim Bagh, a 
delightful, fine, park-like expanse, 
closely planted with magnificent 
chenar- trees. Well raised above 
the lake, it catches the breeze, 
whence its name is derived. On 
the way back to Srinagar is 
passed a village with a large 
mosque, called Hazrat Bal; farther 


on is a fine view of the picturesque 
Hari Parbat, from which the 
Xasim Bagh Canal leads to the 
Dal Gate. The name of Hazrat 
Bal is derived from a hair, of the 
Prophet Muhammad, believed to 
be preserved in the mosque. 

The Eastern shores of the lake 
may also be reached on foot. 
Starting from the Munshi Bagh, 
the road leads S. of the Takht-i- 
Sulaiman to the edge of the lake. 
To the left is a wine f actor A 
massive building, high up the 
mountain-side farther on, is the 
Pari Mahal, probably originally 
erected for astrological purposes. 
Beyond are vineyards, and then, 
higher up, the Chashma Shahi, a 
garden of the usual Mughal plan. 
The Xishat Bagh is 2 m. farther, 
5 m. in all from the Munshi Bagh, 
and Shalimar 2 m. beyond 
that. 

(2) Starting again from the Dal 
Gate, below the C.M.S. Mission 
Hospital, and turning to the left, 
the Mar Nulla leads through the 
Northern side of the city to the W. 
of Han Parbat and the Anchar 
Jhil, across which a boat can pro- 
ceed to Gandarbal, 14 m. from 
Srinagar. Beyond the Dilawar 
Khan Bagh the canal passes under 
a series of bridges and balconied 
houses, and afiords some of the 
most picturesque, but often, also, 
the most malodorous, views in the 
whole city. Near the end of it is 
the Idgah. From outside the Dal 
sluice - gate the Tsont - i - Kul, or 
Apple Canal, leads past the Chenar- 
bagh {one of the prettiest spots 
near Srinagar, but by no means a 
healthy one to camp on) to the 
river opposite the Sher Gar hi, 
presenting varied and beautiful 
views ail the way. Both of these 
expeditions may be often repeated 
with increased pleasure. 

(3) The Temple of Pandrethan 
lies about 3 m. E of the Residency 
by road, but very much farther 
by boat, owing to the loops of the 
river above Srinagar, which form 
so singular a feature in the views 



34 ^ ROUTE 17. 

60 m. Chengas Sarai (D.B.) 

73 m. Rajaori (D.B.) 

86 m. THaraMandi (D.B.) 

96 J m. Baramgalla (D.B.) j p,^. 

III m. PosMana \ Crossing 

122 m. Aliabad Sarai. J Panjai. j 
140^ m. Sliupiyan (D.B.) 
i66;V m. Srinagar. 

This is one of the finest routes 
into Kashmir, but is practicable 
only for riding or walking, as it is 
impossible to drive. 

Gujarat (p. 324). 

28 m. Bhimbar (D.B.), a con- 
siderable town, situated near the 
right bank of the stream of that 
name, and surrounded by wooded 
hills. The road, which is fairly 
easy for 20 m., crosses over the 
Adttak range (2000 ft.) to 

II m. Saidabad (D.B.), where the 
Samani Sarai is worth a visit. 
The road then crosses the Kaman 
Goshi range (3000 ft.), from the 
top of which the snows first come 
in sight. 

10 m. Nausbabra (D.B.), and 
camping-ground on the Tawi River, 
in which there is mahsir fishing. 

11 m. Cbangas Sarai (D.B). The 
shorter road fords the Tavd twice 
on the way. The D.B. is built on 
the right bank, about 200 ft. above 
the river, on an old Mughal sarai. 
Here is a very fine view of the 
snows. 

13 m. Rajaori (D.B.) (3200 ft.), a 
day's march to the E., of which 
there are two hot sulphurous 
springs. The D.B. is m an old 
pleasure-garden on the left bank 
of the river, overlooking on the 
right the picturesque town. 

13 m. Tbana Mandi (D.B.), along 
the Tawi, which becomes very 
narrow, the valley also contracting 
considerably. It is situated at the 
foot of the Rattan Pir Pass, witli a 


KASHMIR India 

good road running through it from 
Punch to Jammu. 

10^ m. Baramgalla (D.B.), cross- 
ing the Rattan Ptr (8200 ft.), easy 
ascent, very fine scenery. From 
this point ponies cannot be taken 
early in the year. 

iql^m. Posbiana. From Baram- 
galla the road passes along a deep 
valley, crossing, the Sooran torrent 
several times by log bridges, and 
ending with a steep climb. Poshi- 
ana (8200 ft.) is covered with snow 
till the end of May, and consists of 
a few shepherds' huts, which are 
flat-roofed. Tents may be pitched 
on the roofs, or the huts may be 
occupied, but they are roughly 
made and draughty. 

II m, Aliabad Sarai. 

The road, very rough, now runs 
up the Nilana Valley to the sum- 
mit of the Pir Panjal (11,400 ft.), 
from which there is a magnificent 
view of the Ward wan and As tor 
range. There are huts of refuge 
on either side of the Pir in case of 
storms. The sarai is not habit- 
able until May owing to the snow. 

i8|- m. Sbupiyan (D.B.), in the 
Kashmir Valley, a pleasant, easy 
walk, passing Hirpur (R.H.) on the 
way. There is a camping-ground 
here, and supphes are procurable 
for the first time since leaving 
Baramgalla. Hence it is a couple 
of easy marches (Ramu, 10 m.) to 
Srinagar. Or the route through 
Mohanpoora to Kanhal (D.B.) for 
Islamabad (19 m.) may be follovred 
and a boat be taken (p. 343) 
down the Jhelum River to Srinagar, 
about 14 hrs. From Shupiyan, 
9 m. distant by Sedau, may be 
visited the Aharbal Falls (40 ft. 
high) of the Veshau River. From 
Sedau it is two marches (12 m.) to 
the Konsa Nag mountain lake. 



ROUTE 17. SHIKARPUR — DEDUR 


' Jhelum and Punch Route to 
Kashmir, 

Jlieliun to 
13m. Shikarpur 

26 m. Tangrot 
(D.B.) 

36 m. diaumukli 
46 m. Raidam. 

58 m. Neki. 

66 m. Berarli. 

74 m. Kotli 

This route is long, the marches 
are somewhat difficult, and sup- 
plies scarce. Owing to the steep- 
ness of the road in places the 
traveller is recommended to take 
coolies rather than ponies. 

Jhelum (p. 327). 

13 m . Shikarpur (D.B.) The 
road IS unmetalled, but in good 
'adcr and level the whole way. 

13 m. Tangrot (D.B.). The road 
lies, for the most part, in the bed of 
the Jhelum, so can only be used 
when the river is low. The fishing 
here is probably the best in India. 

10 m. Chaumukh, crossing the 
Punch by a ferry. The ascent is , 
by a very rough path (only walk- j 
ing being possible) to the village of 

10 m. Raidani, prettily situated 
in a valley. Thence by the worst 
march in the route to 

12 m. Neki, which is the resi- 
dence of a few cowherds. No sup- 
plies obtainable. 

8 m. Berarli, a small village, 
where there is good spring water, 
and supplies and coolies plentiful. 

8 m. Kotli, on the left bank of 
the Punch. The camping-ground 
IS through the town, under some 
trees, among a lot of streams 
''■’orking twenty flour mills. Sup- 
plies, coolies, ponies, etc., abun- 
dant. 


340 

15 m. Sahri, where black par- 
tridges abound. The scenery here 
is very pretty. 

16 m. Punch (D.B.), a largish 
town, on the right bank of the 
Sooran, the conspicuous features 
of which are the Raja Buldeo 
S'lngh’s Palace and the Fort, 
Punch may also be reached in 
three marches — Sooran, 16 m. ; 
Sahri, ii m. — from Thana Mandi. 
(p. 34s)- 

10 m. Kahuta (D.B.), a cluster 
of huts up the Bitarh Valley, com- 
manding a magnificent view of the 
surrounding mountains. 

8 m. to Aliabad, where there 
is a comfortable R.H. ; some 
supplies are obtainable. 

6 m. Hyderabad (D.B.), a small 
mountain village beyond the Haji 
Pir Pass (8500 ft.), where supplies 
are very scarce. 

9^- m. Uri, thence (see p. 343) to 
Baramula and Srinagar. 

(4) Hassan Abdal and Ahhottabad 
Route to Kashmir. 

12 m. Hedur (D.B.). 

8 m. Haripur (D.B.). 

22 m. Abbottabad (D.B.). 

16 m. Mansera (D.B.). 

18 m. Garhi Habibulla (D.B. 

14 m Domel (D.B.). 

(For continuation via Uri, see 
P- 343 -) 

The stages to Abbottabad can 
be done by tonga. The road from 
Abbottabad is a fair one, and is 
being gradually improved. 

Hassan Abdal (D.B.) (p. 334). 

12 m. Dedur (R.H.), a roadside 
.sarai and camping-ground. 


89 m. Sahri. 
105 m. Punch 
(D.B.) 

115 m. Kahuta 
(D.B.) 

130 m. Hyder- 
abad (D.B.) 
140 m. 0ri. 



India 


350 ROUTE 18. frO REWARI 

20 m. Haripur (D.B.), a large and 
flourishing Indian town, lying in 
a richly-cultivated valley. 

42 m. AbPottahad (D.B.) (p. 334). 

58 m. Mansera (D.B.). 

76 m. Garhi Habibulla (D.B.). 

88 m. Domel (D.B.), thence to 
Garhi, Uri, etc. (p. 343). 

{5) Jayyi'yyiu (p. 324) to Srinagar, 

This route (now being widened 
into a cart-road) is practically the 
private one of the Maharaja, and 
travellers are not permitted to use 
it except with special permission 
from the Resident in Kashmir — 
winter - headquarters at Sialkot. 

It is 184 m. long, divided into 
nineteen stages, and crosses the 
Chenab near Ramband and the 
Banihal Pass (9000 ft.) above 
Vemag (p. 346). Should an elec- 
tric railway to Kashmir be ever 
made, the circuit of the country 
may be completed by a prolonga- 
tion along this route. 


TO LAHORE— KARACHI 


ROUTE 18. 

{a) REWARI to Hissar, Bhatinda, 
Ferozepore, Kasur, Raiwind, 
LAHORE. 

(h) LAHORE to KARACHI by 
Multan, Sher Sbali Junction, 
Bahawalpur, Samasata, Rohri 
Kliairpur,"Hyderabad, and Kotri, 
with expeditions by road from 
Jangshahi to Tatta, and from 
Rohri to SukRur, Ruk Junction, 
Larkana, S eh wan, and Kotri, by 
the right bank of the Indus. 

The journey Lahore to Kar- 
achi (784 m.) occupies 24!- hrs. 

Fares — Rs.58, Rs.29, Rs.9. 


General Note on Sind. 

Shikaris and camels cannot be 
obtained wTthout previous notice. 
It is advisable to mvite the assist- 
ance of the Collector of the Dis- 
trict. The railway runs through 
the following Districts : — Sukkur, 
Larkana, Naw’ab Shah, Hydera- 
bad, and Karachi, The beaters 
and camel men are all keen sports- 
men, but the tariff should be 
arranged before starting. Camels 
; cost about R.i, 8 as. per day, 

I beaters 4 as, to 8 as. In nearly all 
parts of Sind there is good small- 
game shooting — duck, quail, snipe 
and black partridge — and a good 
shot may get fifty brace of duck or 
snipe on a lucky day, and frequently 
i twenty to thirty brace. A pleasant 
! trip can be obtained by hiring a 
I country boat at Sukkur or Kotri 
! and sailing down the Indus, the 
I shooting-grounds being generally 
■ most accessible from the river : in 
this manner crocodiles, pig, hog- 
deer, and many varieties of water- 
birds — e.g., pelicans, flamingoes, 
f and spoonbills — can be added to 
; the bag. 



ROUTE 1 8. RKWARI — HTSSAR 


(a) Rewari to Lahore. 

52 m. from Delhi is Rewari junc- 
tion station (R., D.B. and Hmdu- 
Muhammadan Hotel) . Rewari 
was founded in 1000 a.d. by Raja 
Rawat. There are the ruins of a 
still older town E. of the modern 
walls. The Rajas of Rewari were 
partially independent, even under 
the Mughals. Near the town they 
built the mud fort of Gokalgarh, 
which is now in ruins, but was once 
very strong. They coined their 
own money, and their currency w'as 
called Gokal Sikka. Rewari is a 
place of considerable trade, par- 
ticularly in iron and brass. The 
Town Hall is handsome, as are 
the Jain Temples and Tej Singh's 
Tank, close to the town. Beyond 
Rewari the railway passes to 

30 m. S.W. of Rewari lies Nar- 
naul, the principal town of the 
possessions of the Patiala State in 
this quarter, made over to the 
State for loyal services rendered 
in 1857. This is on the Chord line 
from here to Phalera (p. 192). 

From Rewari a branch of the 
narrow-gauge line runs N.W. to 
Hissar and Ferozepore, and so to 
Lahore, passing the following 
places . 

52 m. Bhiwani station (R H.), 
with 31,100 people, chiefly Hindus, 
formerly a great market for all 
North Raj pu tana. 

74 m. Hansi station (D.B.), a 
modem town of 14,576 inhabi- 
tants, on the W. Jumna Canal. 
It is said to have been founded by 
Anangpal Tomar, King of Delhi, 
and was long the capital of Hari- 
ana. There are ruins of an 
ancient citadel and some remains 
of gateways, and a high brick wall, 
mth bastions and loop-holes. In 
^795 the famous sailor- adventurer, 
George Thomas, fixed his head- 
quarters at Hansi, which forth- 
with began to revive. In 1802 
British rule was established and 


351 

a local levy was stationed here, 
and Colonel Skinner, C.B., settled 
in 1829. In 1857 the troops of 
this town mutinied, following the 
mutineers at Hissar. 

At Tosiiam (D.B.), 23 m. S.W., 
are some ancient inscriptions. 
They are cut in the rock half the 
way up the hill near a tank much 
visited by pilgrims who come 
from great distances to the yearly 
fair there. Tosham (population, 
2325), is about 9 m. from the 
Bawani Khera Railway Station. 

Sg ra. Hissar station (R., D.B.) 
(population 17,162). The Hissar 
branch of the W. Jumna Canal, 
made originally by the Emperor 
Firoz Shah to irrigate his hunting- 
seat at this place, terminates here. 
In 1826 it was restored by the 
British. In this place also the 
local levies revolted during the 
Mutiny of 1857, and murdered the 
Collector and fourteen Christians, 
to whom a monument is erected 
beside the little Church ; but be- 
fore Delhi was taken a body of 
Sikh levies, aided by contingents 
from Patiala and Bikaner, under 
General Van Cortlandt, had re- 
stored order. 

The city and the fort on the W. 
side of it were founded in 1354 a.d. 
by the Emperor Firoz Shah, who 
made it his favourite hunting-seat. 
Lying on the main track from 
Multan to Delhi, it became a place 
of importance, of which there are 
only buried remains now’ besides 
the old walls and gates. In the 
fort are the ruins of a Muhamma- 
dan building constructed of Jain 
remains ; and E. of the city is a 
fine stone building called the 
Jahaz, or Ship, from its shape. 
It was used as a workshop of the 
W. Jumna Canal, but has now been 
made over to the Archaeological 
authorities. A large cattle fair 
is held at Hissar twice a year. 
S. and W. of the city there is 
a Government cattle-farm (Bir), 
managed by a European superin- 



352 


ROUTE l 8 . (^ 7 ) REWARI TO LAHORE 


tendent, and attached to it is an 
estate of 39,887 acres for pasturage. 

The District of Hissar borders 
on the Raj pu tana Pesert, and in 
parts is itself little better than a 
waste, scattered over, with low 
bushes. The water supply is in- 
adequate, the average rainfall 
being only 10 in., and the country 
is sadly subject to famines. The 
Ghaggar, with scant verdure along 
its banks, winds through the N. of 
the district like a green riband. 

140 m. Sirsa station (popula- 
tion 14,629). The town and fort 
are supposed to have been founded 
by one Raja Saras about the 
middle of the 6th century. It was 
formerly well known as Saras vati. 
A great cattle fair is held here in 
August and September, at which 
30,000 head of cattle are exposed 
for sale. 

187 m. Bhatinda junction sta- 
tion. From this place lines run 
E. to Patiala, Rajpura, and Am- 
bala, and W. to Samasata (Baha- 
walpur), Hyderabad, and Karachi, 
S.E. to Rohtak and Delhi, and S. 
to Bikaner. There is a very high 
picturesque fort, seen well from 
the railway, but the modern town 
contains nothing of special inter- 
est except the shrine of Baba 
Ratan, a Moslem saint who is said 
to have been a Hindu converted 
to Islam in the reign of Shahab- 
ud-din Ghori (c. 1200 a.d.), and 
yet is believed to have lived in the 
days of the Prophet. 

213 m. from Rewari is Kotkapura 
(R.), a town in the Faridkot State, 
in the Pan jab, situated 7 m. from 
Faridkot town, on the Ferozepore- 
Bhatinda branch of th^ North- 
Western Railway, and also on the 
Rajputana-Malwa narrow - gauge 
line, w'hich runs W. from Kotka- 
pura to the terminus at Fazilka. 
The town has a considerable trade 
in grain, and a fine market 


known as the “ Bikram Mandi. 
Hackney carriages are available 
at the railway station. 

219 m. from Delhi is Faridkot 
town (population 11,673), capital 
of the Sikh State of that name. 
The Chief is of the same tribe, but 
of a different Jat family from those 
of the Phulkian States (p. 296). 
Chaudhri Kapura founded the 
Faridkot house in the middle of 
the 1 6th century, and his grandson, 
Sardar Hamir Sing, became inde- 
pendent a century later, having 
added considerably to the family 
possessions. Maharaja Ran jit Sing 
took possessipn of the State in 
1807, but was forced to relinquish 
it with his other Cis-Sutlej posses- 
sions by the British Government. 
For services rendered during the 
first Sikh war the Faridkot Chief 
received the title of Raja and a 
grant of territory. The State, 
with an area of 642 sq. m. and a 
population of 130,294 is under the 
political direction of the Pan jab 
Government. The State main- 
tains an excellent Company of 
Sappers and Miners for Imperial 
Service. The present Raja was 
bom in 1896. The town„ which 
lies 20 m. S. of Ferozepore, on the 
Ferozepore- Bhatinda branch of the 
North-Western Railway, contains 
the residence of the Raja and 
public offices of the State. It has 
a considerable trade in grain. The 
chief places of interest are — a fort 
built about 700 years ago by Raja 
Mokulsi, a Rajput, in the time of 
Bawa Farid, who gave it his name, 
and the Davies Model Agricultural 
Farm and farmer's house. 

Hackney carriages are available, 
and there is a R.H. for the accom- 
modation of travellers, 

239 m. from Delhi is Feroze- 
pore ^station (R., D.B.) (population 
50,836). The fort, with an arsenal 

^ A memorial has been erected at Feroze- 
pore to the Sikh garrison of Saraghari 
on the Orakzai Samana range (p. 331), which 
feli to a man defending the post in ^897. 



ROUTE iS. FEROZEPORE — KASUR 


and the Cantonment, lie 2 m. to the 
S. The city was founded m the 
time of^Firoz Shah, Emperor of 
Delhi, 1351-87 A.D. When it lapsed 
to the British in 1835 it was in a 
declining state, but through the 
exertions of Sir Henry Lawrence 
and his successors it has increased 
to its present importance as a 
market of raw produce, much of 
which is due to the Sirhind Canal, 
extended to the District in 1882, 
and the Grey inundation canals 
along the Sutlej, inaugurated by 
Colonel Grey, C.S.I., in the years 
I S 74-8. The main streets are 
wide and well paved, while a 
circular road which girdles the 
wall is lined by the gardens of 
wealthy residents. 

^ It was at Ferozepore that the 
Governor-General, Lord Auck- 
land, met Maharaja Ranjit Singh 
m December 1838, only six months 
before his death, to make arrange- 
ments for the advance of the 
British army on Kabul ; and it 
was here also that, just four years 
later. Lord Ellenborough received 
the so-called victorious army on 
its return to British India, General 
Sale and the Jalalabad garrison 
crossing the bridge over the Sutlej 
at the head of the force. 

On the loth of December 1845 
the Sikhs invaded the District, 
but, after desperate fighting, were 
driven back across the Sutlej. 
Since then peace has prevailed, 
except during the Mutiny of 1857. 
In May of that year one of the 
two sepoy regiments stationed at 
herozepore r-evolted, and, in spite 
of the presence of a British regi- 
ment and some British artillery, 
Partly destroyed the Cantonment. 

The Fort, which contains the 
principal arsenal in the Panjab, 
was rebuilt in 1858 and greatly 
strengthened in 1887. The rail- 
way and the trunk road to Lahore 
separate it and the towm from the 
Cantonment. 

The Memorial Church, in honour 
of those who fell in the Sutlej 
campaign of 1845-6, w^as de- 


- 353 

stroyed in the Mutiny, but was 
subsequently restored. In the 
cemetery on the Grand Trunk 
Road to Ludhiana lie many dis- 
tinguished soldiers, amongst them 
Major George Broadfoot, C.B., 
Governor-General's Agent, N.W. 
Frontier, General Sale, and Gen- 
eral Dick. 

The three great battlefields of 
the First Sili War, fought by 
Lord Gough, can best be visited 
from this point. Mudki (i8th 
December 1845) Hes 22 m. to the 
S.E. ; Ferozeshali (21st and 22nd 
December), 16 m. E., and on the 
railw^ay to Ludhiana and 8 m. 
from Mudki ; and Sohraon (loth 
February 1846) 20 m. N. It was 
at the Hariki Ford, near Sobraon, 
that the Sikh army entered British 
territories, and in this last battle 
they lost 10,000 men killed or 
drowned in attempting to escape 
across the river. The losses of the 
British in killed and wounded in 
these battles,^ in which they met 
in the Sikhs foeraen worthy of 
their steel, wmre terrible — viz., at 
Mudki, 872 killed and w-ounded ; 
at Ferozeshah (where the troops 
failed in the first attack on the 
entrenchments, which were carried 
the next day), 2415 ; and at 
Sobraon, 2299. Generals Sale and 
M'Caskill were killed at Mudki, 
INIajor Broadfoot at Ferozeshah, 
and General Dick at Sobraon. 
The Governor-General, Sir Henry 
Hardinge, was present at the 
battles of Mudki and Ferozeshah. 
A plain obelisk has been erected 
I on each of the battlefields. 

Beyond Ferozepore the railway 
crosses the Sutlej River by a fine 
bridge, and proceeds past Kasur 
I (255 m.), an old Pa than strong- 
hold, to {272 m.) Raiwind, on the 
N.W. Railway. Kasur is connected 
on the N. with Patti, Tarn 
] Taran, and Amritsar (p. 299), 

1 See The Sikhs and the Sikh H'ars, by 
General Sir H. Gough, V.C,, and A. D. 
Innes ; also Li/e and Campaigns of Hugh, 
ist Viscount Gough, Field-Marshal, by 
R. S. Rail. 



India 


ROUTE l8. (&) LAHORE TO KARACHI 


354 

and on the S. with Lodhran and 
Bahawalpur (p. 357). 

Beyond Rewari the railway 
passes 

S30 m. from Bombay, Gurg^aon, 
the headquarters of the South- 
Easternmost District of the Pan- 
jab. To the S., at a distance of 
15 m., is the town of Sohna, a 
place especially remarkable for its 
hot spring, situated in the town 
and close to the hills, which form 
a sort of perpendicular wall, 
crowned with the walls and bas- 
tions of an unfinished fort. The 
water of this spring is strongly 
impregnated with sulphurous acid, 
which, however, evaporates very 
rapidly. The spring is covered 
wdth a domed building and sur- 
rounded by large cisterns and 
R.Hs., built from time to time by 
the Princes of Gwalior and Bharat- 
pur States. The water is con- 
sidered of great value for purposes 
of rheumatism, gout, and skin 
diseases. 

Palwal, 37 m . from Delhi . 
From Muttra downwards, on the 
G.I.P. Railway, this is the second 
largest town in the Gurgaon Dis- 
trict. Its origin seems to be lost 
sight of, but Sie Pandits seem to 
identify it as the Apelava of the 
Mahabharata, part of the Pandua 
kingdom of Indraprastha, and 
tradition associates with the same 
period the high mound of the 
old site of Aharwan, a village a 
few miles to the S.W. It is said 
to have lain in a state of decay 
for a long period, and then to have 
been restored by Vikramaditya 
some 1900 years ago. The oldest 
part covers a high mound formed 
by accumulated debris of many 
centuries, but of late years habita- 
tion and streets have taken up 
part of the plain below. During 
the Mughal times it was without 
a history, but on the downfall of 
the Empire it was given with 


surrounding territory in jagtr to 
General De Boigne, and, after the 
conquest by Lord Lake, to Mur- 
taza Khan of Delhi for a few 
years, after which it came under 
direct British rule. The town is 
of considerable trade, especially 
in cotton, and has a R.H. about 
3 furlongs from the railway 
station. 

849 m. from Bombay is DELHI 
junction station. 4 ^ 

(6) Lahore to Karachi, 

4 m. Lahore Cantonment, W., 
second station of this Cantonment. 

25 m. Raiwind junction station 
(R.) for 33 m. Ferozepore and Raj- 
putana. 

104 m. Montgomery station (R., 
D.B.) (population 8129}. This 
place, created under British rule, 
is, since 1865, the headquarters 
of a District formerly known 
as Gugaira, and received its 
present name from Sir Robert 
Montgomery, Lieutenant - Gover- • 
nor of the Panjab (1859-65). 
From this point may be reached 
Pak Pattan, 30 m. S., near the 
Sutlej River, an extremely ancient 
place, first known in history as 
Ajudhan, and identified by Gen- 
eral Cunningham wdth one of the 
towns belonging to the Sudrakoe 
or Oxudrakoe of Alexander's his- 
torians. Pak Pattan is now on 
the Sutlej Valley Railway between 
Kasur and Lodhran. It has been 
an important site from the earliest 
antiquity as a seat of a Hindu 
shrine, converted later into a place 
of Muhammadan worship by 
Farid-ud-din, a saint of the famous 
Chishti family (p. 190).^ A great 
pilgrimage of Muhammadans takes 
place here at the time of the 
Muharram, as many as 60,000 
attending. 

1 A full account of this saint is in Mr 
Miles Irving’s paper in the Journal of tho 
Panjab Historical Society ^ i., 



ROUTE l8. HARAPPA MULTAN 


355 

ii6 m. Haxappa station. A Huitan as a strong edifice between 
hamlet now of no importance, but i the bazars of ivory dealers and the 
identified by General Cunningham i shops of the coppersmiths. The 
wth the site of a town in the terri- j idol was of a human shape, with 
tory of the Malli attacked and i eyes of jewels and the head 
taken by Alexander the Great. | covered with a crown of gold. 
The ruins, which are the most i Shortly after Multan was taken 
extensive of any along the banks | by the Kaimatian Chief, Jelem, 
of the Ravi, lie to the iST. of the | son of Shiban, who killed the 
line and close to it. i priests and broke the idol in pieces. 

General Cunningham attributes It was restored in 1138. In 1666 
the destruction of Harappa to j a.v. Thevenot describes the temple 
Aluhammad-bin-Kasim in 715 a.d. j of the Sun God as still standing. 
The site has yielded thousands of ; and the idol as clothed in red 
Indo-Scythian coins, but not a j leather and having two pearls for 
single Greek one. I eyes. This idol was destroyed by 

the orders of Aurangzeb. 

1/3 m. Khanewal junction. The Muhammad - bin - Kasim con - 
lines serving the Chenab- Jhelum quered Multan for the Khalifs, and 
Canal Colonies, via Lyallpur, etc., it was afterwards taken by Mahmud 
30m the main line (Lahore to of Ghazni in 1005, and by Timur in 
Karachi) here. The mam line - October 1398. Subsequently it 
continues on via Multan, but most i formed part of the Mughal Empire, 
of the through traffic to Karachi and then of the Durani kingdom, 
runs by the direct chord, viz., In 1779 Muzafiar Khan, a Sadozai 
Khanewal to Lodhran, which Afghan, made himself ruler, but 
saves 26 m. was killed with his five sons when 

Ranjit Singh stormed the place in 

207 m. Multan city and 1818. In 1S29 Sawan Mall was 

appointed governor. He was shot 

208 m. Multan Cantonment (R., I in 1844, and was succeeded by his 

D.B.)* station. [ son Mulraj. Upon his resignation 

Multan city (D.B. in Canton- ' after the First Sikh War, Mr Vans- 
ment, nearly 3 m. aw^ay from rail- | Agnew and Lieutenant Anderson, 
way station) is a municipal town, who were sent down to receive the 
with a population of 99,243, of surrender of his office, were at- 
whom the majority are Mu ham- tacked in the fort and subse- 
madans ; iat. 30^ 12', long, 31'- quently murdered at the Idgah on 
It is still poorly furnished with 20th April 1848, whereupon Mul- 
metalled roads, but they are good j raj went into rebellion. His forces 
ufithin municipal boundaries ; [ were twice defeated by Major 
there has been no material change j Herbert Edwardes, and he was 
in the town recently. It is the shut up in the fort ; but owing to 
headquarters of a Division and j the delay 'with which the British 
District of the same name, and is I authorities took action, the Sikh 
4 m. from the left bank of the j forces before the place, under the 
Chenab and not far from the pld j command of Maharaja Sher Singh, 
bed of the Ravi. It is a place of ■ also went into rebellion, and this 
great antiquity, and supposed to ! led to the Second Sikh War. On 
be the capital of the ISIalh men- I the 2nd of January 1849 the city 
tioned in Alexander's time. j was stormed by the army under 

The first mention of Multan by General Whish, and the fort was 
name is by Hiuen Tsang in 641 surrendered by Mulraj, and since 
a.d. then the whole District has been 

Istakhri, who wrote in 950 a.d., [ under English rule. At the time 
describes the temple of the idol of ! of the Mutiny in 1857 the garrison 



India 


356 


ROUTE 18. (6) LAHORE TO KARACHI 


consisted of two Native Infantry 
regiments and a Mounted Battery 
without a single European com- 
pany. On the loth June these 
troops were induced to give up 
their arms by the courage and 
adroitness of Major (afterguards 
Sir) Crawford Chamberlain ; but 
on the 31st August the men rose 
in unreasoning mutiny, and having 
attacked the Bombay and Pan jab 
troops, which had meanwhile ; 
arrived on the scene, were almost 
wholly exterminated. The im- 
portance of Multan as the connect- 
ing link with Sind, from which 
the first outside assistance apinst 
the mutineers was received in the 
Panjab, was at the time almost 
supreme. 

The heat of Multan is notorious, 
and the rainfall, varying in the 
District, IS at headquarters little 
above 7 in. The saying is — 

Dust, heat, beggars, and cemeteries 

Are the four specialities of Multan. 

The Cantonment, to the W. of 
the town, was extended to the 
S.W. and made more defensible 
in 188S. The lines of the Indian 
Cavalry lie on the S, side of the 
Cantonment close to the railway : 
W. of them is the Defensible Post 
with the Heavy Battery lines. 
The rest of the garrison is located 
on the N. side of the Cantonment, 
in the order, E. to W., Indian 
Infantry — British Infantry — 
R.F.A. — ^Indian Infantry. In the 
same direction are the Hospital 
and D.B„ with the Roman Catho- 
lic cemetery" to the N.W., and the 
Muhammadan cemetery, the Parsi 
cemetery, and the English church 
in succession to the N. 

The old Fort rises near the IN. 
of the city. The entrance is by 
the De (Dewal= temple) Gate, so 
called because it leads to the 
famous temple of the Narsingh 
(Lion Man) form of Siva or Prah- 
ladpuri. The original temple 
stood in the middle of the fort, and 
was destroyed by Aurangzeb ; 
while the mosque built upon its 


site was totally blown up in the 
siege of 1848. Inside the enclo- 
sure, on the left, is the modern 
small temple, and, farther on, the 
Shrine of Rukn - ud - din, grand- 
son of Bhawal Hakk, commonly 
known as Rukn-i-’Alam (“ Pillar 
of the World ”) • This is an octagon 
of red brick, bonded with beams 
of Sisu wood, and supported 
by sloping towers at the angles. 
Over this is a smaller octagon, 
leaving a narrow passage all round 
for the muezzin to call the faithful 
to prayers. Above this is a hemi- 
spherical dome. The total height 
is 100 ft., but as the tomb stands 
on high ground it is visible for 
30 m. round. One of the towers 
was thrown down when the poiv- 
der magazine blew up in the siege 
of 1848, and was rebuilt in faithful 
imitation of the old one, including 
the timber bonds. The whole 
outside is ornamented with glazed 
tile patterns and string courses 
and battlements. The colours 
used are dark blue, azure, 
and white, which, contrasted 
with the deep red of the finely- 
polished bricks, give a most 
pleasing effect. The mosaics are 
not like those of later days, mere 
plain surfaces, but the patterns 
are raised from half an inch 
to two inches above the back- 
ground. 

The tomb was built by the 
Emperor Tughlak Shah (1340- 
1350) for himself, but given by 
his son Muhammad Tughlak 
as a mausoleum for Rukn- 
ud-din. 

Farther on, to the right, is an 
obelisk about 50 ft. high, erected 
in memory of Vans-Agnew and 
Anderson. On a white tablet on 
the W. face of the pedestal is an 
inscription which tells briefly an 
important chapter of the history 
of the Pan jab. The concluding 
[ words are : — 

I The anne-\ation of the Panjab to the Empire 
{ Was the result of the War, 

I Of which their assassination 

I Was the commencement. 



ROUTE l8. SHER SHAH BAHAWALPUR 


357 


The Tomb of Baha-ud-din Zak- 
haria (“ The Ornament of the 
Faith”), commonly called Baha- 
ul-Hakk, or Bhawal Flakk, is as old 
as the reign of the Emperor Balban 
(1264-86), of which period there 
are few other architectural speci- 
mens. It was almost completely 
ruined during the siege of 184S. 
It was afterwards repaired and 
plastered over, but some glazed 
tiles remain outside. The lower 
part is a square ; above this is an 
octagon half the height of the 
square, and above that a hemi- 
spherical dome. The son of Bha- 
wal Hakk, whose name was Sadr- 
ud-din, is buried in the same tomb. 
His cenotaph is adorned with 
green tiles. Opposite, in the 
corner of the vestibule, is the tomb 
of Nawab Muzaffar Khan. 

About J m. to the N.W. of the 
fort is the Idgah in which Vans- 
Agnew and Anderson were mur- 
dered in 1S48. It has been re- 
stored to the Muhammadans as a 
place of worship. 

The Tomb of Shams - i - Tabriz, 
who lived in the time of Shah 
Jahan, stands 4 m. to the E. of the 
iort on the high bank of the old 
bed of the Ravi. The main body 
of the tomb is a square surrounded 
by a veranda, with seven open- 
ings in each side. Above is an 
octagon, surmounted by a hemi- 
spherical dome, covered with glazed 
sky-blue tiles. The whole height 
IS 62 ft. To the left of the en- 
trance is a small square building, 
dignified as the Imambara. 

219 m. Sher Shah junction sta- 
tion (D.B.), whence the Sind- 
Sagar^ Railway fp. 325) branches 
off W, and N., and crosses the 
Chenab, about i in. broad, on 
3 - splendid bridge of seventeen 
200-ft. girders. 

262 m. Lodhran junction (p. 
354 )- The new railway (Sutlej 
Valley Railway) from Kasur joins 
the K W. Railway at Lodhran, and 


I the chord line from Khanewal (p. 
355) rejoins the main line (Lahore 
to Karachi) of the N.W. Railway. 
From Khanewal lines go to (i) 
Karachi, (2) Lahore, (3) Shorkot 
Road, and (4) Lodhran. 

270 m. the Adamwahan Bridge, 
4224 ft. long, carries the N.W. 
Railway across the Sutlej River 
at a height of 28 ft. above the 
stream. 

272 m. Bahawalpur (D B.), is the 
chief town with 18,414 inhabi- 
tants, and the capital of an Indian 
State under the political direction 
of the Government of the Panjab. 
The area of the State i-^ about 
15,000 sq. m., with a river frontage 
of 300 m. and a population of 
780,641, of whom over tour-fifths 
are Muhammadan. The Nawab of 
Bahawalpur, by race a Daudputra, 
ranks on the list of Panjab Chiefs 
next after the Maharaja of Patiala. 
His ancestors came from Sind, 
and assumed independence after 
the first expulsion of Shah Shuja 
from Kabul. In 1842 Sir Charles 
Napier restored to Bhawal Khan, 
the then Nawab, the Districts of 
Sabzalkot and Bhaung Bara, lost 
to the State in 1807. 

In 1847-8 the Nawab assisted 
Sir Herbert Edwardes during the 
Multan rebellion, for which he was 
rewarded with a life-pension of a 
lakh of rupees. His son. S'aadat 
Khan, was expelled by his elder 
brother, and died a refugee in 
British territory in 1862. In 1863 
and 1S65 rebellions broke out, but 
were crushed by the ninth Nawab, 
who died soon after. The tenth 
Nawab, Muhammad Khan IV., 
was not installed till 1879, when 
he attained his majority. In 
recognition of the valuable services 
rendered by the State to 
British Government during the 
first Kabul campaign, he was 
created G.C.S.I. m 18S0. On 
his death in 1S99 he was succeeded 
by his son, a minor, who was 
invested with full powers in 1903. 



India 


358 ROUTE 18. [h) LAHORE TO KARACHI 


He died after a short but promising 
reign in 1907. The present Nawab 
was born in 1904, and is now being 
educated at the Aitchison College, 
Lahore. The State is now ad- 
ministered by a Council of Ke- 
gency. The Imperial Service 
Corps furnished by the State in- 
clude a fine camel corps, and num- 
ber 550 men and 1200 camels 

The Palace of the Nawab, which 
is to the E. of the town, cost about 
;^30,ooo. It is a square pile, with 
towers at each comer. In the 
centre is a hall for holding recep- 
tions. There is a fountain in 
front. At the side are under- 
ground rooms, where the thermo- 
meter remains at 70*^, while it 
rises from 100'^ to# 110° in the upper 
rooms. Ascending to the roof, 
the visitor will have an extensive 
view E. towards the vast Desert 
of Bikaner, which stretches, water- 
less, away for 100 m. 

279 m. Samasata, junction for 
Bhatinda and thence for Ambala, 
Delhi, Rewari, and Bikaner. 

Following the course of the 
Indus, through an uninteresting 
tract, the railway reaches 

418 m. Reti station (R. and 
railway R.H.). A rest-camp for 
troops between Karachi and La- 
hore has been extablished here. 
4 m. S. of Reti are the vast ruins 
of Vijnot, a leading city before the 
Muhammadan conquest : there is 
nothing to be seen but a surface 
raised by the debris. 

488 m. Rohri station (a District 
Bungalow for the use of Govern- 
ment Offi-cers), a municipal town 
(population 9919), the capital of a 
sub-District of the same name, 
which has an area of 4258 sq. m 
It is on the left, or E. bank of the 
Indus, on a rocky eminence of 
limestone, interspersed with flints, 
and seen from a distance has a 
striking appearance, the houses 
being two and three storeys high, 
with flat roofs surrounded by 


balustrades. It is said to have 
been founded by Saiyad Rukn-ud- 
din Shah in 1297 a.d., which was 
more than 300 years after the 
Indus deserted its former bed at 
Alor and came to Rohri. The 
rocky site of Rohri ends on the W. 
side in a precipice 40 ft. high, rising 
from the river bank. In the latter 
part of the rains the water rises 16 
ft. above its low’-est level 

The J ami Masjid is a fine build- 
ing, now whitewashed, with three 
domes, and decorated with glazed 
porcelain tiles. A Persian inscrip- 
tion records that it was built by 
Fateh Khan, an officer of the 
Emperor Akbar, about the year 
1572 A.D. One of the sights of the 
place is the Min Mubarak, or “ a 
hair of the Prophet,” in amber, 
and preserved in a gold tube 
adorned with rubies. It is said 
that the War Mubarak (War, in 
Sindi — mui, Persian for hair), a 
building 25 ft. sq., on the N. of the 
town, was erected about 1545 by 
Mir Muhammad for the reception 
of this relic. It appears it was 
brought from Constantinople by 
one Abdul Baki. whose descend- 
ants have still the keeping of it. 
The present building, with its 
striking green dome and painted 
walls, was built a few years ago 
by the Pir of Kingri. The Ndgah 
was erected in 1593 a.d. by Mir 
Muhammad M'asum. Near Rohri 
are forests, covering 58,000 acres, 
or about 90 sq. m , which were 
planted in 1820 by the Talpur 
Amirs, and are now under the con- 
trol of the Sind Forest Depart- 
ment. There are forests, of con- 
siderable depth, on both sides of a 
long stretch of the Indus. 

A mouth of the E. Nara Canal is 
crossed 2 ra. before reaching Rohri, 
and from Rohri runs due S. 
through Khairpur, and enters the 
Thar and Parkar District. 

i m. from Rohri, at the mouth 



359 


ROUTE 1 8. ARORE HYDERABAD 


of the E. Nara Canal, 156 ft. \vide, 
are the powerful sluice-gates which 
regulate the supply of water from 
the Indus. When these gates are 
closed during inundations it is a 
wonderful sight to see the fish try- 
ing to pass them. Millions collect 
on these occasions, and in attempt- 
ing to leap the falls fall back upon 
common Indian cots, made of 
rope, which are suspended from 
the arches of the regulator. The 
fishing is let out by yearly contract, 
and yields a handsome revenue. 

Excursion to Arore. — While at 
Rohri a visit may be paid to the 
locality, Arore (population, 840), 
— formerly the very ancient Alor — ■ 
which is only 5 m distant to the E . 
This was the capital of the Hindu 
Rajas of Sind, and was taken 
from them by the jMuhammadans, 
under Muhammad Kasim, about 
71 1 A.D. At that time the Indus 
washed the ancient city of Alor,^ 
but was diverted from it by an 
earthquake about 962 ad., at 
which time the river entered its 
present channel. 

Once the road from Rohri passed 
over a bridge about 600 ft. long, 
across the ancient channel of the 
Indus, but this is now no longer the 
case ■ only a fe\v stones show where 
the bridge once stood. The modern 
metalled road from Rohri does not 
pass through the village of Arore, 
which IS on an elevation, but skirts 
its base, and on the farther side is a 
village with about 100 inhabitants, 
and from this an extensive ridge of 
ruins runs in a N.E. direction. 
That which bears the name of 
’Alamgir’s Mosque is picturesque. 
Two of them are shrines, one 
to Shakarganj Shah, where there 
is still an annual fair, and" the 
other to Kutb-ud-din Shah. To the 
former tomb people of the neigh- 
bouring villages still make pil- 
grimages. It has no dome or 

1 Alor, Uch, and Hyderabad are believed 
to have been the sites of three of many 
Alexandrias founded in the Panjab. 


building over it, but is a plain, 
white, neat tombstone, wnth a 
border of carved fiow’ers. 

From Rohri the loop-line to 
Kotri (p. 365) crosses the Indus, 
and the direct line to Karachi 
(784 m. distant from Lahore by 
this route) runs down the left bank 
of the Indus to 

504 m. Khairpur (population, 
14,989), founded 1783, the seat of 
the last Amirs of Sind, the Talpurs, 
and the capital of the Indian State 
of that name, over 6000 sq. m. 

674 m. HYDERABAD (Haidera- 
bad) (D.B.), has a population of 
75,952 inhabitants. It is situated 
on an island-hill 2 m. N. of the 
Ganja hills, from wLich it is separ- 
ated by an old course of the Indus. 
This river now^ fiow^s to the W. of 
the hill. On the E. is the FuleU 
Canal, which used to leave the main 
stream 12 m. above the towm, but 
IS now supplied by a new cut which 
encircles Hyderabad hill on the K. 
From the earliest times the hill 
seems to have been occupied in 
partbva fort called “ Neran,” but 
no trace whatever of it now exists. 
The modern town of Hyderabad 
was laid out by Ghulam Shah Kal- 
hora in 1768 as the capital of re- 
united Sind. The fort w’^as built 
at the same time. Ghulam Shah’s 
tomb is at the N. end of the hill. 

The Fort of Hyderabad is of a 
very irregular form, and about 
I m. in circumference ; in the 
centre is a large *‘burj,” or a keep, 
in very good preservation, w'hich 
overlooks the country for miles 
around. On the N. side a trench 
separates the citadel from the 
town. It is crossed by a bridge 
leading to one of these intricate 
gateways wLich have so often 
yielded to a “coup de main.” 
Where the walls do not rise im- 
mediately from the edge of the 
' declivity the defence is streng- 



India 


360 ROUTE 18. (6) LAHORE TO KARACHI 


thened by a ditch, 10 ft. wide and 
8 ft. deep. The residences of the 
principal Amirs, formerly within 
the walls of the fort, have now 
almost disappeared. In fact, since 
the explosion in the fort in 1906, 
very little remains but the tower, 
almost all the buildings, including 
the arsenal, being totally destroyed. 
Portions of ^Iir Nasir Khan’s 
palace alone are kept up, in proxi- 
mity to the Record Office. This 
palace used formerly to be occu- 
pied by the Commissioner in Sind 
on his tours and by other officers 
of rank when visiting Hyderabad. 
Sir C. Napier frequently resided in 
this palace, and in it he held his 
Grand Darbar on 24th and 25th 
May 1844, when every Chief in 
Sind came from far and near to 
submit himself to the conqueror. 
One room in Mir Nasir Khan’s 
palace, styled the Painted Cham- 
ber, is still tolerably perfect, and 
gives some idea of what the effect 
must have been when all was un- 
injured. In the recesses various 
historical subjects connected with 
the Kalhora family are delineated. 
In one recess is a picture represent- 
ing an interview be tween, according 
to Burton, Maliaraja Ran jit Singh 
and Lord Lake, who is de- 
picted in the uniform of a political 
officer. In this interview Kan- 
jit Singh was informed that his pro- 
posed aggressiveness in Sind would 
not be tolerated by the Govern- 
ment of India, but the protection 
offered to the Mirs, though com- 
memorated by them thus, was not 
remembered later during the first 
Afghan war, a forgetfulness "which 
was the cause of their dovmfalL 
The visit to the fort should con- 
clude with a walk round the ram- 
parts and an ascent to the top of 
the circular tower, whence a hne 
view of the surrounding country, 
with the Fuleli on one side, wind- 
ing through the dusty plain, and, 
on the other side, of the rapid 
Indus, with its buttress of rock in 
the background, will be obtained. 

Undoubtedly the finest building 


in Hyderabad is the Kacheri, built 
in a modified classical style in 1912, 
at a cost of about Rs.2|- lakhs. 
It consists of Revenue and Judicial 
offices. Just S. of it, and over- 
looking the railwa}^ is the tomb of 
Shah ]Makkai, a saint whose very 
name is forgotten. The tomb is 
interesting only for the battle- 
mented mud wall which was built 
on this Southern spur as a counter- 
poise to the sinailarly treated tomb 
of Ghulam Shah Kalhora. The 
main bazar running for over a mile 
in a straight hne from the fort gate 
to the new market is worth a visit. 

The tombs of the Kalhoras and 
Talpurs cover the N portion of 
the hill on which Hy&rabad is 
built. The tombs of the Talpurs 
are very beautiful, but are not in 
such exquisite taste as that of 
Ghulam Shah Kalhora, the de- 
scription of which may serve for all. 
On entering the enclosure by 
a small but richly -carved door the 
visitor is impressed by the beauti- 
ful symmetry of the mausoleum 
and "the religious feeling displayed 
in the decorations. Formerly lat- 
ticed windows in a lofty dome spar- 
ingly admitted the light, and shed 
a subdued lustre over an exquis- 
itely-carved marble tomb, at the 
same time revealing the rich fresco 
paintings on the walls, without 
giving them too much prominence; 
but the dome fell in a few years ago 
and has been replaced by a flat 
roof. The beautiful marble rail- 
ing surrounding the tomb was 
shattered by the fall, and there are 
only the fragments of it now. 
Over one of the archways is an in- 
scription in Persian, written by 
the order of his son Sarfaraz, 
whose tomb is in a burial ground 
below the hill, and was built in 
17S5 A.p. It is painted inside, 
and is in good repair. There are 
four other tombs of the Talpur 
family — that of iVIir Karam All, a 
domed rectangular building, with 
a turret at each comer, built in 
1812, with marble fretwork, and 
roofed with coloured tiles ; that 



ROUTE l8. HYDERABAD — JUNGSHAIIf 361 


oi iVIirs Mured Ali, Xur Muham* 
mad, Nasir Khan, and Shahdad 
Khan, built in 1847, wdth white 
marble tombs inside ; that of Mir 
Ghulam Shah and Fazl Ali, erected 
1^55 • and that of Mir Muham- 
mad, built in 1S57. Ali the Tal- 
piir tombs, except Karam Ah's, are 
kept in good order at the cost of 
surviving members of the family. 

^ The Cantonment lies to the 
K-W. of the town. There is a fine 
range of barracks for Europeans. 
Kot far off is the church of St 
Thomas, built in i860, at a cost of 
54.000. It can hold 600 per- 
'^on^. It has several memorial 
Windows, and on the K. side of the ' 
communion-table is a brass show- 
ing the number of officers and men 
who fell at Miani and Dabo (1843). 

The Roman Catholics have had 
a church at Hyderabad from the 
time of the conquest 

Hyderabad is famous for its 
embroideries (this refers presum- 
ably to the embroidery of ‘ ‘ Na ths, ' ' i 
the leather covers for the saddles j 
of riding camels) in silk and gold 
and its silver tissues. There are 
four or five famous fabneants, each 
Working wifh a different stitch, 
f fie patterns are of endless variety. 
All the work is made on a simple 
wood fraine. 

In the Amirs' time there was a 
great demand for enamelling, the 
principal sardars vying with each 
in the beauty and costliness 
pf their swords, matchlocks, and 
norse-trappings, which were pro- | 
tusely decorated with enamelled | 
ornaments. In enamelhng on gold ] 
the colours red and cnm.son are i 
chiefly used, and blue and green i 
^re the favounte colours with' ! 
Oliver. ! 

A visit can be made to the ! 

battlefields of Miani and j 
abo, on which, in 1843, was de- ! 
oided the fate of Sind. The three ; 
places form a triangle, Miani being ' 
m. to the N.W. of Hyderabad I 
and Dabo 54 m. to the E. of 1 
‘Ivflerabad. ! 


i On the E . side of the monument 
! at Miam, enclosed in a well-kept 
I garden, are the names of the offi- 
1 cers who fell. 

I From Hyderabad a branch line 
i runs by (55 m.) Shadipalli to 310 
I m.) Turn junction (p. 184). At 
[ Mirpur Khas, 42 m E of Hydera- 
' bad, a stupa, 50 ft. each way, with 
! terra-cotta figures of Buddha, has 
i been lately excavated. A branch 
line also runs S. to Badm (about 
62 m.) along the Fuleli. Five m. 
N. of Tando Mahomed Khan (20 
m.), alongside the line, is another 
Buddhist stupa, known as Sud- 
I haran Jo Dhadho, near which are 
some 15th century Baluch tombs 
and some prehistoric tumuli. 

A memorial pillar has been 
erected near the river just S. of 
One Tree Bundar to commemorate 
the site of the Residency so ably 
defended by IVlajor Outram. 

The main line now crosses the 
Indus to 

679 m. Eotri (D.B.) (loop-line to 
Rohri, p. 33 s), a place of some 
importance (population 7-56), 
and for a time the terminus of 
I the Sind Railway and the Indus 
j Flotilla. The railway at this 
j point quits the Indus for Karachi, 

I l>ung some 50 m. X.X.W. of its 
mouths. 

731 m. Jungshahi station (R.) 

From Jungshahi a good road 
runs 13 m. to Tatta (population, 
11,161). Two-horse carriages are 
available, winch can perform the 
journey in a couple of hours. At 
mile 1 1 on the IMakli Hill there is a 
D.B. (no provisions procurable). 

Tatta, as late as 1739, a great 
city of 60,000 inhabitants, first 
comes into notice as the seat of the 
Samma rulers of Lower Sind, who 
made it their capital about 1340 
A.D., and who reached the zenith of 
their pou'er in the reign of Xizam- 
u-din (1461-1509 A.D ), the Jam 
Xindo still remembered by the 



362 


India 


ROUTE l8. [h) LAHORE TO KARACHI 


people as the prince^hero of the 
Golden Age of Sind. After his 
death the Samma rulers gave place 
to Arghuns and Turkhans, invaders 
from the N. In 1555 a Portu- 
guese fleet of 28 ships, under Pedro 
&retto Rohm, arrived at Tatta, 
and, in the absence of the ruler in 
Upper Sind, sacked and burned 
the city and carried ofl such booty 
as had rarely been taken in Asia. 
The last Turkhan died in 1612, and 
Lower Sind became a province of 
the Mughal Empire, which it re- 
mained till 1739, when the Empire 
collapsed beneath the onslaught of 
Nadir Shah, In the chaos which 
ensued new Sindi dynasties arose 
with capitals further N. at 
Khudabad and Hyderabad, and 
Tatta declined to a mere country 
town. 

The most remarkable sight in 
Tatta is the great mosque, begun 
by Shah Jahan in 1647 
finished by Aurangzeb. It has 
been a splendid edifice, though 
now much decayed. The glory of 
ancient Tatta is not, however, to 
be sought in the town, but on the 
Makii Hill, a couple of miles \V, 
on the Jtingshahi road. This vast 
necropolis, covenng an area of 6 
sq. miles, is said to contain 
1,000,000 graves, and probably 
contains far more. Among the 
innumerable tombs rise the re- 
mains of many a stately mauso- 
leum, a few of which still survive 
in something of their former 
splendour. 

Immediately N. of the steep in- 
cline w'hich carries the road down 
the Eastern scarp of the hill, is the 
tomb of Mirza Jani Beg, the last of 
the Turkhan rulers. It was built 
in 1599 A.D,, and is of brick, the 
faces of which are glazed blue and 
blue-green. 

Further N. rises the splendid 
mausoleum of Nawab Isa Khan, 
Governor of Siud, erected between 
1628 and 1644 A.D. It is by far 
the largest and best preserved 
monument on the hill, and is built 
entirely of stone in the Fatehpur- 


Sikri style, richly decorated 
throughout with surface tracery. 
It stands on a raised platform in 
the middle of a courts and is sur- 
rounded by a veranda on carved 
pillars, with an upper storey. 
Stairs on the E. lead up to the 
roof. 

A little distance to the E., on the 
very edge of the hill, is a low build- 
ing of stone in the same style, con- 
taining the tombs of the ladies of 
the zenana of Nawab Isa Khan. 
The Avails inside are covered with 
carving in low relief, the Avonderful 
variety of the patterns being only 
equalled by their exquisite design 
and perfect finish. The vieAV f»m 
the Eastern door-Avay across Bie 
interA^ening lake to where the pre- 
sent tOAvn of Tatta rises on the 
ruins of dead cities of the past, is 
one of the most beautiful in 
Sind. 

Near the N.W comer of Nawab 
Isa Khan’s tomb is that of Piwan 
Shurfa Khan, in whose lifetime 
it was built (1638 A.D.). It is a 
massive square structure Avith 
heuA^'v round toAvers at the corners, 
and is constructed of fine brick- 
work, pointed in the joints Avith 
strips of dark blue tiling. The 
dome has been covered vrith blue 
glapd tiles, a portion only of 
Avhich remains. 

The visitor who can spare the 
time should not fail to proceed li 
m. further N. along the crest of the 
hill to the tomb of the famous 
Nizamm-din (Jam Nindo). This 
is a square stone structure without 
a dome, Avhich some have thought 
AA^as built from the remains of a 
Hindu temple. The W. facade is 
magnificently carved in a purely 
Hindu style.' Inside, the springing 
of the great arches to support the 
dome, which Avas never built, affords 
an excellent example of the early 
attempts of Hindu craftsmen to 
arriA-e at the Muhammadan arch 
by their own method of horizon- 
tally-laid stones. The noble Mn- 
hammadan simplicity of the in* 
terior is in striking contrast 




KARACHI AND ENVIRONS 


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A R A. B I A N SEA 


LondoiL Jolm3!ftLrracv;ALbeniarTe Street 


Ji^KiBaiTbo^-BnewA Co .iiii 





ROUTE l8. DABHEJI KARACHI 


363 


the Hindu richness of the W 
facade. 

750 m. Da.biieji station is the 
place from which Bhambhor may 
be visited ; it is 6 m. distant. 

Bhambhor, now a shapeless mass 
ol ruins, and very dilhcult of access, 
ot which there is no authentic 
iiistory, IS supposed by the natives 
to be the site of the most ancient 
^Cwiport in Sind. It may have 
been the ancient Debai, the first 
eity captured bv iMuhammad 
Ka sim, having its name from 
■1 temple in tlic fort of s^reat cele- 
brity. It is unquestionably of 
great antiquity, and tlie remains 
of ramparts, bastions, towers, etc., 
prove its former importance 
-Many coins also have at dihcrent 
times been found amongst its 
lains. The town of Gharo is 
about 3 m. to the E. 

7^^ m. KARACHI {Kuyyachee) 
tantonnient (or Frere Street) sta- 
tion # . The M'Leod (or City) station 
IS z m. farther on towards the 
harbour 

Karachi (lat. 24° 51', long. 67" 

E. ; population 151,903 ; dis- 
tance irom I^ondon 6283 m } is 
the chief town in Sind. It is 
situated at the X.W extremity of 
the (lelta of the Indim, and is the 
headquarters of the Commi^sSioner, 
the Judicial Commissioner, and 
the General commanding the Dis- 
trict It existed as a mere fort 
from 1725 to 1S42, when it was 
yielded up by the Talpur Amirs 
to the British. Then it began to 
rise rapidly as a liounshing sea- 
port with a trade whose exports 
have now an annual value of 
£15,000,000 (subject to great 
variations, however) and imports 
The steamers 
using the port number about 1050, 
with a tonnage of 1,500,000 tons ; 
the income of the Port Trust is 
iiyo,ooo, and of the Municipality 1 
18 lakhs. N. of the station are j 
the Napier Barracks and Station 1 
Hospital, a fine block of buildings ■ 


extending over the maidan for i 
m , with accommodation for 1500 
European troops. E of the Lines 
is the R.C. Church. \V. of Frere 
Road from the railway station is 
the Frere Hall, built in 1865 in 
honour ot Sir Bartle Frere. The 
building contains a large ball- 
loom and public meeting-room 
I which IS htted with a stage and 
false floor and fixed seats in tiers 
for theatrical purposes), and the 
Karachi General Library. In the 
grounds are two line statues, one 
of the Queen-Empress Victoria, 
unveiled by King George V., 
then Prince of Wales, on i8th 
ALirch 1906, and the other of King 
Edward VH., unveiled by Lord 
Wilhngdon, Go'^'ernor of Bomba 5^ 
on 7th January 1916. Adjoining 
the Frere Hall compound are the 
handsome buildings of the Sind 
Club, the Collector^ Bungalow, 
Ladies’ Gymkhana etc. 

Close by, W., is Government 
House, built by Sir C. Napier, 
bought from him by Government, 
and now the residence of the 
Commissioner in Sind. Behind it 
is Trinity Church (the garrison 
I church), With its square cam- 
I panile originally 150 ft. high, 
i but reduced in 1904 to 119 ft. 

' bv the removal of the top. It 
‘ was built at tlie instigation of Sir 
‘ Bartle Frere, and contains a line 
■,tained-glass window, put up in 
t honour of Sir C. Napier and the 
; victors of Miani. Beyond, W., are 
I the Masonic Hall and A^.M.C.A., 

I the Artillery Lines, Barracks (used 
; as a \Vai* Hospital), and Arsenal: 
i and a few yards farther are St 
I Andrew's Church (Scotch Kirk), 

I and the Headquarters Karachi 
; Artillery ^’olunteers, and near by, 

I K , is tile Empress Market 

On the N.W. side ol the Canton- 
ment is the Zoological Collection in 
the Gardens — well worth a visit. 

From Government House, 
M'Leod Road leads to a fine 
block of buildings containing the 
quarters of the European and 
Persian Gulf Telegraph Staff, the 



India 


364 ROUTE 18. (i>) LAHORE TO KARACHI 


General Post Office, the D: J, Sind 
College, the Victoria Museum, the 
Burns Garden, and the Municipal 
Offices. On the left of the road 
is the Karachi City Railway Sta- 
tion. Beyond are the Court 
House, containing the Judicial 
Commissioner. District Judges, 
and Town Magistrate's offices, 
the Chamber of Commerce and 
the offices and godowns of the 
European merchants, Banks, and 
Steamship Agencies ; and N.W. of 
these lies the native city. The 
native city lies to the N. of M'Leod 
Road, between it and the Layan 
River, and is traversed by Bandar 
Road, which joins the former near 
the memorial clock-tower of Sir 
\Vm. Mere wether. The Bandar 
Road leads from the Native In- 
fantry Barracks, in the E., to the 
Napier Mole running to the Kar- 
achi Harbour, Along or near it are 
the following buildings : the Native 
Infantry Mess, the Headquarters 
Sind Volunteer Rifles, Tramway 
Office and Stables, Y.M.C.A., 
Small Causes Court, Richmond 
Crawford Veterinary Dispensary , 
Civil Hospital and Epidemic Dis- 
eases Hospital, C-M.S. Mission and 
Church, G. H. Khalikdina Hall, 
Max Denso Hall, the new Port 
Trust Offices (used as a War Hos- 
pital) and various business pre- 
mises. New Municipal offices are 
in course of construction, but the 
work has been suspended for the 
War. 

2 m. along the Napier j\Iole is 
Kiamari (4 m. from the Canton- 
ment ; carriage fare, Rs.4), a busy 
shipping port, with its long line 
of wharves, and connected with 
the Cantonment and native town 
by rail, tram, road, telegraph, or 
telephone. In the old days this 
was an island. At Kiamari the 
Karachi Harbour commences. It 
is a first-class harbour, capable 
of accommodating the largest 
steamers, and owes its existence 
to the strenuous exertions of Sir 
Bartle Frere. It was designed by 


Mr Walker, commenced in 1854 
and completed in 1S83, since when 
additional railway facilities have 
i constantly been added. There is 
■ very good sea-hshing to be had in 
, the’ harbour, which is famed for 
1 its fish and oysters. Near the 
Napier Mole, on the back-water, 
i is* the Sind Boat Cluh-house. The 
' Defences of the Harbour consist, 
I besides the marine defences, of 
I three large forts, the largest on the 
i Manor a headland, at the entrance 
I to the harbour on the W. The 
[ lighthouse near this shows a fixed 
I light 148 ft. above sea - level, 
visible 17 m. in clear weather. 

! On the meridian of Karachi there 
i is no land between Man ora and 
the South Pole. 

I The cheapest route from London 
! to Quetta, Multan, Lahore, and 
North-West India is via Karachi. 

I Ihrough tickets by the P. Sc O. 
j and other steamer lines to Karachi, 

; 483 m. (P. & O. passengers change 
j to B.I.S.N. mail steamer in Bom- 
^ bay harbour), are issued at the 
same price as tickets to Bombay. 
There is a quick weekly service 
' by the B.I.S.N. from Karachi to 
j Muscat, Bandar Abbas, Bushire, 

^ and Basra on the Persian Gulf. 

i Clifiop, 3 m. S. of the Canton- 
, ment, a favourite afternoon ride 
I and drive, stands on the sea, and 
i IS approached by a good road. 

I There is a fine sandy beach here 
extending S E, for miles ; on this 
beach turtles in August, Septem- 
, ber, and October come np at 
I night to lay their eggs, Dur- 
j mg the cold weather the tanks 
j and jeels about Karachi swarm 
i with small-game birds, while in the 
I Baluch Mountains, 25 m. W. of 
Manora, ibex, urial, panther, and 
1 bear are occasionally to be found. 

! In the Hab River, ^ the boundary 
between India and Baluchistan 
j (20 m. from Karachi), good mahsir 
, fishing can be had. 

I Magar Pir, ii m. N. of Karachi, 
i is well worth a visit. For a 



ROUTE 1 8 . ROHRI SUKKUR 


365 


detailed account of this curious , 
place see Dry Leaves from Young j 
Egypt, ^ p. 218, and Burton’s Suid, 

I, 48. As the place can be 1 
comfortably seen in an afternoon i 
from Karachi, there is no neces- 
sity to stop there. The dharmsala, 
or R.H., is unsuitable for Euro- 
peans ; a good motor-road now 
runs to within a mile. A Leper 
Asylum has been established here. , 

From the roots of a clump of , 
date-trees gushes out a stream of ' 
hot water, the temperature of 
which is 133°. On the W. side of 
the valley is a temple surrounded 1 
by a thick grove and close to a , 
swamp caused by the superfluous ' 
waters of the spring. There is also ■ 
a tank surrounded by a 5 -ft. mud 
wall, and containing some eighty 
or ninety crocodiles, which, as . 
they attract a considerable num- 1 
ber of visitors, the Muhammadans j 
in charge of the Pirs Tomb regard j 
as sacred, for a brisk and remuner- 
ative business is done by these ; 
custodians in killing goats for | 
visitors to see the crocodiles fed. j 
The crocodiles are of the snub- ! 
nosed species, different from the | 
long-snouted gharial of the Indus, j 

48S m. Rohri (p. 35 S) to Kotri by ' 
the right bank of the Indus, j 
226 m. 

! 

Opposite to Rohri, in the Indus, j 
is the Island of Khwaju Khizr, I 
Here is a mosque of great apparent ; 
antiquity. It has an inscription, | 
the date 951 a.d. The shrine of ; 
Khizr, who was also called Zinda 1 
Pir, or " the living saint,” is vener- , 
ated by Hindus and hluhamma- , 
dans alike. | 

A little to the S. of the Isle of ! 
Khizr is the larger Island of i 
Bukkur. It is a limestone rock of 1 
oval shape, 800 yds. long, 300 yds ' 
Y^de, and about 25 ft. high. 
^Imost the whole of it is occupied 
by a fortress, which has two gate- 

^ In the Library in the Frere Hall. ! 


ways, one facing Kohn on the E., 
the other Sukkur on the W. The 
Amirs attached much importance 
to this fort. But on our advance 
to Kabul in 1838, it was placed at 
the disposal of the British Govern- 
ment, and w^as used first as an 
arsenal, and then, until 1876, as a 
prison for Baluchi robbers. As 
early as 1025 a.d. w^e hear of 
Abdur Razzak, Minister of Mah- 
mud of Ghazni, expelling an Arab 
Governor from Bukkur. In the 
beginnmg of the 13th century it 
was an important fortress of 
Nasir-ud-din Kabachas. 

In 1327 A.D., Bukkur seems 
to have been a place of note, for 
the Emperor Muhammad Tugh- 
lak sent persons of importance 
to command there. Under the 
Samma Princes the fort changed 
hands several limes, being some- 
times under their rule and some- 
times under that of Delhi. Dur- 
ing the reign of Shah Beg Argun 
the fortifications were rebuilt, the 
fort of Alor being destroyed to 
supply the requisite material. In 
1574 it was delivered up to Keshu 
Khan, an official of the Emperor 
Akbar. In 1736 it fell into the 
hands of the Kalhoras, and subse- 
quently into those of the Afghans, 
who retained it till it was taken 
by Mir Rustam of Khairpur. 

The Indus, which runs here 
with great rapidit5% is crossed by 
the grand Lansdotvne Bridge, 
erected on the cantilever principle, 
connecting Rohri with the Island 
of Bukkur ; the line then crosses 
the island, and is connected with _ 
Sukkur (see p 366) by another* 
bridge of a single span. The span 
is 840 ft. from centre to centre of 
the cantilevers ; each cantilever 
is 320 ft. long, and the central 
girder connecting them is 200 ft. 
long. The roadway is iS ft. wide 
in the clear, or enough for a line 
of carts in each direction. A 
single line of railway is laid in the 
centre. A path 4 1 ft. wide for 
foot and pony traffic is also pro- 
vided on each side outside the 



366 ROUTE i8. (6) LAHORE TO KARACHI India 


railway, and can be used at all 
times. The total w^eight of steel 
and iron employed was nearly 
3000 tons. 

3 m. Sukkur station (K., D.B.) 
and railway R.H. near the station, 
the headquarters of the Sukkur 
District, standing on the right 
bank of the Indus, has a popula- 
tion of 39,161, and is well drained 
and clean. There are also some 
locomotive shops of the North- 
Western Railway here. A series 
of low, bare hmestone ridges slope 
down to the Indus, and on them, 
about I m. off, is the European 
quarter. This quarter, together 
with a large Indian town, is called 
New Sukkur, to distinguish it from 
the old town of the same name. 
The only sights are the tombs of 
Shah Khair-ud-din, built about 
1758, and Muhammad M'asum, in 
the Cantonment, at the foot of a 
tower 90 ft. high, which he erected, 
and which overlooks the country 
for many miles. The town was 
ceded to the Khairpur Amirs be- 
tween 1809 and 1824. In 1833 
Shah Shuja'a defeated the Talpurs 
here with great loss. 

15 m. Ruk junction station (R.). 
From here the Sind, Pishin, and 
Quetta Railway branches N. (see 
Route 19). 

49 m. Larkana station (D.B.) 
is a municipal town (population 
16,097), the capital of a district 
of the same name. The country 
surrounding it is fertile and popu- 
lous, and perhaps the finest tract 
in the whole of Sind. 

The fort served in the time of 
the Talpurs as aa arsenal, but 1 
has now disappeared, | 

139 m. Sehwan station (D.B. ! 
in the old fort).^ The chief ; 
town (population 4749 ; 117 ft. | 
above sea) of a sub-district of the 
same name in the Larkana Dis- 
trict. The river Aral, which is 


I crossed by a bridge with iron 
I girders, flows close to the town. 
[ The tomb of Lai Shahbaz is en- 
j closed in a quadrangular building, 

; which has a dome and lantern, and 
is adorned with beautiful encaus- 
1 tic tiles with Arabic inscriptions. 

' Mirza Jani, of the Tarkan dynasty, 

, built a still larger tomb to this 
I saint, which was completed in 
* 1639 A. D. by Nawab Dindar Khan. 
The gate and balustrade are of 
wood, encased in hammered silver, 
the gift of Mir Karam 'Ali Talpur. 
who also crowned the domes with 
silver spires. The shrine of Lai 
Shahbaz is one of the most vener- 
ated in Sind, and on the i8th 
Shauoan in each year is the re- 
sort of some 30,000 to 40,000 pil- 
grims from Sind and the Panjab. 
Hindus and ^luhammadans join 
impartially in paying reverence to 
Lai Shahbaz. According to the 
Hindus, the original shrine was 
that of an ancient Raja. The chief 
object, however, of antiquarian 
intmest in Sehwan is the Fort, 
which dates from a period prior to 
Alexander the Great. It is an 
artificial mound in the N.W. part 
of the town, said once to have been 
250 ft. high, but now only 60 ft., 
measuring round the summit 1500 
ft., and surrounded by 
a broken wall. The remains of 
several towers are visible, but the 
fortifications arc ruined i the fort 
was, according to a tradition, de- 
stro^’ed by an earthquake 

Sehwan is at the tail of the 
Government system of canals, of 
which the principal are the IV. 
Lara, 30 m. long and over 100 
ft. wide at its mouth ; the Ghar, 

22 m. long and 80 ft. wide ; the 
Nail rang, a continuation of the 
Ghar 21 m. long and 90 ft. wide ; 

27 m. long and 
4S ft. wide; and the Eden Wah, 

23 m. long. 

There is good shooting to be had 
Sehwan District — ^hyenas, 
^Id hog, wolves, foxes, jackals, 
the hog-deer, and the chinkara, or 
ravine antelope,” being common. 


ROUTE 19. RUK JUNCTION TO CHAMAN 367 


The ManclUiar is not 

very far from Sehwan to the W, : 
Bubak Road is the nearest railway 
station. It is a large natural de- | 
pression, supplied with water by j 
hill torrents and by Indus water, J 
w’hich reaches it during the inunda- | 
tion season by way of the W. Nara j 
Canal and the Aral River. It ' 
covers an area of 160 sq. m. in the , 
wet season, but shrinks to about j 
half that size at other times. In ' 
the cold weather there is abun- | 
dance of water-fowl shooting, and j 
excellent snipe, quail, and par- | 
tndge shooting round the edge of | 
the lake, and an extraordinary I 
number of fine fish. ! 

The fish are generally caught | 
with spears or nets. The boat, j 
which is fiat-bottomed, is pro- ' 
pelled by one man, while another, I 
armed with three or four light cane j 
spears, 8 ft. long and barbed at | 
the tip, stands at the prow watch- • 
ing the water ; as soon as he sees | 
a fish flash through the weeds, ^ 
with which the lake is covered, he 1 
hurls a handful of spears in that | 
direction, and is sure to strike one 
or two fish, which, as the spear 
becomes entangled in the weeds, 
cannot go far, and are follow^ed and 
lifted into the boat. j 

For the other method of catch- j 
ing the fish an ingenious circular 
enclosure of nets, supported by 
poles, is laid down in the lake. A 
flotilla of small boats containing ' 
men with drums and other noisy j 
instruments surrounds the enclo- , 
sure at some distance and gradu- I 
ally draws nearer. The fish, 1 
frightened by the din, and not j 
daring to escape through the { 
boats, press heavier and nearer j 
to the net. Then when the boats j 
approach, huge dambhros are seen | 
fiin^ng themselves into the air to , 
a height of from 3 ft. to 4 ft., hoping ! 
to jump over the lower net, but 
only to strike against the upper 
one and fall into the bag below% 
a self - made prey. In the mean- 
time men with spears hurl them 
^-t the huge gandams, which are 


unable to leap, and, lifting them 
high in the air over the net, deposit 
them in the boats. Divers then 
go inside the net and examine it 
careful!}’ under w’ater, securing 
such fish as may be endeavouring 
to force a passage through it. 
These men in their habits seem 
almost amphibious. 

150 m. from Sukkur is Laki sta- 
tion (R.), good quail, duck, and 
snipe shooting in the neighbour- 
hood. The railway runs through 
the Laki Pass, at an elevation of 
200 ft , the Indus lying below. 
This range of hills contains several 
hot springs, and show's many signs 
of volcanic action. There are 
also lead, antimony, and copper 
in them, though not in great 
quantities. 

226 m. from Sukkur is Kotri 
station (R.) (p. 361). 


ROUTE 19. 

RUK JUNCTION to CHAMAN, 
on the frontier of Afghanistan, 
by Shikarpur, Jacobahad, Sibi 
Junction, and Quetta, returning 
by the Harnai route. 

Ruk junction station (R., D.B.), 
15 m. on the Karachi side of Suk- 
kur (see p. 366). The first station 
of importance on the Smd-Pishin 
Railw’ay is 

II m. Shikarpur station (D.B. 
and railway R.H.):+c, a municipal 
town, founded 1617. The popula- 



ROUTE 19. RUK JUNCTION TO CHAMAN 


India 


368 


lion ib 54,641, o± whom 19,078 are 
Muhammadans. The great road 
to Baluchistan, Kandahar, and 
Central Asia passes through it, and 
Shikarpur was long a great trade 
depot. These conditions have, 
However, been changed by the 
opening -of the railway and conse- 
quent facilities for direct trade. 

The bazar is covered in on 
account of the heat in summer, 
Shikarpur, Jacobabad, and Sibi 
being about the hottest places in 
India. The old bazar has been 
lengthened, and the prolongation 
of it, called the SUwavt Ganj 
Market, after a popular District 
officer, is well built and commodi- 
ous, and IS the best bazar in Sind. 
To the E. of the town are* three 
large tanks, called Sarwar Khan’s 
tank, Gillespie, and Hazari tanks. 
There is abundance of water for 
irrigation and other purposes, but 
the chmate is very hot and dry, 
and the rainfall for the last ten 
5"ears averaged onlj^ 2.7 in. 

37 m. Jacobabad station (D.B.) 
(population 11,361). This was 
the chief military frontier station 
before Quetta was occupied. The 
Cantonment was abandoned in 
1914, and troops are no longer 
stationed here. 

The town was planned and laid 
out on the site of the village of 
Khangarh by General John Jacob, 
the distinguished frontier officer 
and commander of the Sind Horse, 
who built the Residency, and is 
buried here under a massive tomb. 
When he arrived in tapper Sind 
the whole country about Khan- 
garh was in a state of anarchy; 
bodies of mounted robbers — 
Bugtis, Dombkis, Burdis, or IMarris 1 
— ^swept the plains and robbed and | 
murdered those they encountered, j 
Khangarh itself offered a stout ' 
resistance to the 5 th Bombay K . 1 ., 
but General Jacob’s rule put an 
end to all these troubles, and to 
him the peace of Upper Sind was 
originally due. Of late years 
Jacobabad has decreased in im- 


portance as a frontier outpost ; 
it ffourishes, however, as a market 
town and as the headquarters of a 
civil district. The temperatures 
at Jacobabad are in excess of any 
recorded in India, a reading of 
126® Fahrenheit in the shade in 
the months of May and June being 
not uncommon. 

122 m. Mithri station. 

134 m. Sibi junction station 
(R., D.B.).. This place is in the 
valley of the river Nari, near the 
entrance of the Bolan Pass. Sibi 
was occupied by the British in 
the name of Shah Shuja from 
November 1841 to September 1842, 
the old fort being used as a com- 
missariat depot. The place was 
ceded to the British by the Treaty 
of Gandamak in 1879. The Vic- 
toria IMemorial Hall for jirgas is a 
fine building. 

From Sibi to Bostan junction 
there are two Hnes — the Northern, 
or Harnai, loop-line which has 
maximum gradients of i in 25, 
and traverses a country inhabited 
mostly by Pathans ; and the 
Southern or direct, Mushkaf-Bolan 
line, A word of warning is neces- 
sary to a visitor starting on these 
journeys. In the winter cold of 
from 22° to 23° of frost is not at all 
uncommon on the higher parts of 
the line, whilst in summer 128® 
inside the house is not an unfre- 
quent temperature at Nari. It is 
scarcely necessary to say that the 
consequences of insufficient cloth- 
ing may be very serious to travel- 
lers who make this trip as part of a 
cold-weather tour. 

1 . The MuBhkaf-Bolan Direct 
Route. 

The original alignment of this 
railway along the Bolan was 
afterwards abandoned in favour 
of the present line. As far as 
Rindh, at the mouth of the Bolan 
Pass, the old line is still kept up, 
but no trains are run upon it. 



ROUTE 19. MUSHKAF — QUETTA 


369 

From Mushkaf (145 m.) the line Division, The garrison consists of 
runs for 28 m. up the Mushkaf British and Indian troops. It is 
Valley with easy gradients. It situated at the N. end of the Shal 
then passes by the Panir Tunnel, 1 Valley in lat. 30° 10', long. 67° i', 
3000 ft. long, into the upper Bolan, 5500 ft. above the sea-level and 

and ascends by very steep gradi- ioo|- m. N. of Kalat. The Civil 

ents, some as much as i m 25, to Station, with the Residency, the 
Kolpur (196 m.). For 6 m, beyond Club, the fine Sandeman Hall, a de- 

the tunnel the works are excep- sign of the late Colonel Sir S. Jacob, 

tionally heavy, but from there with a statue of Sir Hugh Barnes, 



up to Mach (181 m., 3250 ft. — j 
engine changing station) they are , 
lighter. From Hirak {189 m.) j 

they become very heavy again, | 
and the Bolan is crossed nine ! 
times. * 

222 m. Quetta ^ (Kotah) station ^ 
(R., D.B.). At Quetta are the ' 
headquarters of the Honourable, 
the Agent to the Governor-General, ; 
Baluchistan, and of the 4th Army , 

^ From Spezand, 16 m. below Quetta, a j 
railway has been constructed over S3 m. of 1 
a«ertto Nushki. 


the Sandeman Library, M']\fahon 
Museum, and the King Edward’s 
Memorial, lie E, of the railway, and 
beyond these is the city. N. of 
both, on the farther side of the 
Habib Nulla, are the Cantonments. 
To the N.W. stands the mxviy or 
fort, a former residence of the 
officials of His Highness the Khan of 
Kalat, from which there is a very 
extensive view of the neighbouring 
valley. The Staff College is situ- 
ated on the extreme N.E., on the 
road to the Hanna Valley. The 
place is surrounded by fortified 





ROUTE 19. RUK JUNCTION TO CHAM AN 


370 


lines, and commanding, as it does, 
with its strongly-fortified outpost 
of Baleh, both the Khojak and 
Bolan Passes, it forms one of the 
most important Indian frontier 
posts. It has rapidly increased 
since 1880, and now contains 
33,922 inhabitants (Cantonments, 
16,901, city, 17,021), the numbers 
going up in the summer to close 
on 50,000. In winter the cold is 
very severe. Numerous gardens 
and orchards abound in the 
suburbs, and the water supply is 
good. 

Quetta was occupied by British 
troops in the first expedition in 
1838-42 to Kabul. In 1877 a British 
Political officer was again posted 
at Quetta (which was^ taken in 
lease in 1883), since when there has 
been a Governor- GeneraVs Agent 
for Baluchistan, Sir R Sandeman, 
K.C.S.I., being the first to bear 
the title. The present Agent is 
the Hon. Colonel Sir John Ram- 
say, K.C.I.E., C.S.I. During the 
Afghan campaigns of 1878-80 
Quetta formed the base of opera- 
tions for the Bombay column. 

The line now proceeds up the 
Quetta Valley by Baleh and Kuch- 
lak to 

242 m. Bostan junction for 
Hamai Route (see below). 

About 20 m. beyond Bostan 
junction the Lora River is passed, 
the first stream the traveller will 
have seen on the Central Asian 
watershed, all the rivers he has 
hitherto crossed draining into the 
Arabian Sea. 

249 m. Yaru Karez, the station 
for Pishin, 6 m. (^stant ; tonga 
service. Since the opening of the t 
railway to Chaman the import- i 
ance of Pishin, which is the j 
principal place of the Achakzai- | 
Kakar-Tarin country, has much 1 
decreased. I 

273 m. Gulistan station. In the | 
infancy of these lines it was in- ' 


tended to lay a short surface rail- 
way from here towards the 
Ghwazha Pass, an alternative 
route to Kandahar. It was, how- 
ever, subsequently abandoned. 
The main line turns due N. to 

281 m. Kila Abdullah (R.). 

28S m. (from Ruk), Shelahagh is 
at the foot of the Khojak Pass, and 
near the S.E. end of the tunnel 
passing under the Khwaja Amran 
Mountains. This tunnel is about 
2^ m. long. Passing through it, 
we reach Sanzalla (R.) and then 
the present ending of the line at 

310 m. Chaman station, where 
there is a small military outpost. 

The Khojak Pass is surmounted 
by a fine military road, and those 
who have the opportunity should 
ascend it (7500 ft.) to see the 
magnificent view W. over the 
Kadanai Plain and N. to beyond 
Kandahar, which is hidden by 
intervening hills. 

If the line is continued to Kan- 
dahar, it will necessarily make a 
long bend to the N. to obtain 
length for the descent into the 
Kadanai Valley, which lies far 
below Chaman, and the distance 
to Kandahar, the Gandhara of 
ancient India and the Arachosia of 
Alexander, will be about 65 m. 

2. Bostan to Sibi, Harnai Route. 

The scenery of this route, which 
is unsurpassed for weird grandeur 
in the whole world, is best seen by 
taking the downward route from 
Bostan, and should at any sacrifice 
of time be seen by daylight. 
Leaving Bostan, the line, skirting 
the northern slopes of the Takatu 
Mountain on a gradually rising 
gradient, in one place forming a 
complete circle and passing over 
itself, runs to 

Each ^ no m. from Sibi, 6357 
ft. From here a good tonga road 



ROUTE 20. SAHARANPUR TO MUGHALSARAI 


371 


goes (32 m.) to Ziarat (D.B.), the j 
headquarters of the Local Govern- 1 
ment and of the District, a valley [ 
8000 ft. above the sea, set amongst 
hills clothed in juniper forests. 
This place is entirely shut up in 
the uanter, as it is subject to heavy 
snouTalls. 

From Kach the line drops all 
the way to Sibi, 

Mangi, 97 m. From here a j 
good riding road goes to Ziarat j 
(21 m.), traversing the narrow, i 
deep dehle of Mir Kasim Tangi. 

Immediately after Mangi the 1 
Chappar Lift is traversed. This ; 
IS the shoulder of a mountain , 
which has the appearance of being 
cracked from top to bottom i 
through the solid mass of lime- [ 
stone. The Rift itself is passed at 
nearly 300 ft. above the bed of the ■ 
stream, and the train at several 
places seems suspended in the ^ 
air. The line near the Rift con- 
stantly runs through tunnels and 
across high bridges. On leaving 
it a magnificent view is obtained 
of the Khalifat Range (11,440 ft ), 
rising sheer out of the vallev on ; 
the N.W. 


Karnai (R.), 58 m. from Sibi. 
From here the tonga road to 
Loralai and Fort Sandeman takes 
ofi. 

Nari (7 m.). The line leaves ! 
the hills and runs over a hat 
alluvial plain to Sibi (p. 368). 

Quetta-Nushki Extension. 

The Quetta-Nushki branch of ; 
the North-Western Railway takes | 
oh at Spezand, 16 m. from Quetta. ; 
It enters the Chagai District at 
^^alangur, 53 m. from Spezand, j 
and runs in a Westerly direction to ' 
Nushki, headquarters of the Dis- 
tnct, which is 82 m. from Spezand, ; 

m. from Quetta, and 606 m. , 
hom Karachi. 1 


Nushki was leased from His 
Highness the Khan of Kalat in 
1889 on an annual quit-rent of 
Rs.qooo. 

Trade converges at Nushki from 
Kharan, and Shorawak, and at 
Dalbandm from f/d Jalk and Mash- 
kel, (b) Garmsei and the Eastern 
Heimand, and (c) Seistan and other 
parts of Persia. 

The North-Western Railway 
allows a rebate of two-thirds of the 
freight on all goods traffic to or 
from Persia, and the East Indian 
and the Oudh and Rohilkhand 
Railways of one- third. 

The temperature at Nushki 
varies from 52.5 in winter and 
97.3 in summer. 

The population of the Nushki 
Tahsil IS Si 18 {census 1911). 


ROUTE 20. 

(а) SAHARANPUR by the Oudh 
and Rohilkhand Railway to 
Mughalsarai, through Lhaksar 
Junction, Moradabad, Bareilly 
Junction, Lucknow, and thence 
to Benares by (i) Fyzabad and 
Jaunpur, and (2) Rae Bareli. 

(б) Lhaksar Junction to Hardwar, 
Dehra Dun, and the Mussoorie, 
Landour, and Chakrata hill 
stations. 

(c) Bareilly Junction to Raini Tal, 
Almora, and Ranikhet. 

Journey in SJ hrs , 18 hrs., and 
13 hrs., respectively. 

Fares — about 18 ’Rs., 35 Rs., and 
28 Rs., first class, respectively. 

(All these are accessible by 
motor from Bareilly, the distances 



India 


Xl'Z ROUTE 20. (a) SAHARANPUR TO MUGHALSARAI 


being about 83 m., 132 m., and 
103 m. in each case. A few motors 
for hire also run from Kathgodam 
(i), to Naini Tal Brewery (2) to 
Ranikhet, for which arrangements 
can be made wdth the R. and K. 
Railway) • 

(a) 

SaharanpuT j unction (see p . 
295 )' 

22 m. from Saharanpur is Roor- 
kee station [Rurki) (D.B.). It is 
43 m. by road to Dehra Dun, 65 m. 
to Meerut, 32 m. to Muzahar- 
nagar, ig m. to Hard war. Petrol 
can be procured at the C.E. College 
workshops, where repairs can also 
be effected. Roorkee is a modem 
manufacturing town and military 
station, and stands on a ridge over- 
looking the bed of the Solani River. 
Up to 1845 it was merely a mud- 
built village ; it is now a flourish- 
ing town of 16,584 inhabitants, 
with broad, metalled roadways 
meeting at right angles, and lined 
with excellent shops. It is the 
headquarters of the Ganges Canal 
workshops and iron foundry, 
established in 1845 - 1852. The 
canal passes to the E. of the 
townbetween raised embankments. 
Besides the Solani aqueduct, the 
Dhanauri crossing, Pathri and 
Ranipur super-passages are, be- 
tween Roorkee and Hardwar, 
objects of engineering interest. 

The Thomason Civil Engineer- 
ing College was founded in 1847. 
The students are partly English 
youths bom in the country, partly 
Anglo-Indians and Indians. A tex* 
tile class, with textile machinery, 
has been started : the labora- 
tories have been largely increased. 
The library has 25,000 volumes 
available under certain restrictions 
to the public. The whole number 
of students is about 350. 

33 m. Lhaksar junction station. 
A branch line from here runs N, 
16 m ) to Hardwar and Dehra Dun, 


giving access to the hill stations of ' 
Mussoorie, Landour, and Chak- 
ra ta (see {b) p. 380). 

59 m. from, Saharanpur is 
Najihahad. Branch line to Kota- 
way a (15 m.), whence by road 
(18 m.) to the military hill station 
of Lansdowne, which is garrisoned 
by Gurkha regiments. 

73 m. Nagina station (D.B.), 
noted for its work m ebony. It is 
19 m. from Bijnor (D.B.), on the O. 
and R. Railway. Mail carts and 
ekkas are generally available at 
Nagina station for Bijnor (which 
is 3 m. from the Ganges). The 
District of Bijnor is entirely agri- 
cultural (population, 800,000 ; area 
1789 sq, m.) : game is scarce, even 
in the forests : no ruins remain of 
places identified as having been 
renowned of old Bijnor was 
occupied in the Mutiny by the 
rebel Nawab of Najibabad. The 
Brahmanical threads (janeo) made 
at Bijnor have acquired a general 
reputation. 

120 m. from Saharanpur is 
Bloradahad junction (waiting- 
rooms at the railway station, and 
a good D.B. about 2 m. distant) 
it is on the main line of the Oudh 
and Rohilkhand Railway, 202 'm. 
from Lucknow, with branches run- 
ning to Delhi, 1 01 m,, Aligarh, 
88 m., Kashipur 31 m. The rail- 
way station lies to the S.E. 
of the city (population 81,168) 
which is on the right bank of the 
Ramganga River. To N.W. of 
the town is the civil station, with a 
Police Training School, the largest 
institution of its kind . The build- 
ing is spacious and handsome, and 
the staff is maintained at the 
highest point of efficiency. The 
District has an area of 2285 sq. m. 
and a population of 1,262,933. 
The city is noted for its metal 
work, especially for inlaid work of 
brass and tin, some of the designs 
of which are extremely beautiful. 



ROUTE 20. MORADABAD—BAREILLY 373 


Moradabad is 15 m. from Ram- 
pur. The road N.E . towards Naini 
Tal is only metalled up to the 
22nd m., where it crosses the river 
Kosi by a ferry or bridge of boats, 
and beyond is not fit for motors. 
22 m. S. to Sambhal, 73 m, to 
^leerut. 

About J m. N. of the railway 
htation are the American Church, 
and the office of the Tahsiidar, and 
I 1x1. from this church is the Dis- 
trict School, on the banks of the 
Ramganga, which is here crossed 
by a bridge of boats. To the W. 
of the school is the Badshahi Mas- 
jid, dating from 1634, in the reign 
of Shah Jahan, after whose son, 
Murad Bakhsh, the place was 
named. N. are* the ruins of the 
iortof Rustam Khan, the Rohilla, 
who founded the city in 1625. 

On the outbreak of the IMutiny 
at Meerut on loth May 1857 the 
Judge of Moradabad, Mr Cracroft 
Wilson, and the Collector, Mr 
C. B. Saunders, afterwards Coni' 
missioner of Delhi, maintained 
themselves in Moradabad till 
3rd June, but were then obliged 
to fall back on Meerut. 


176 m. from Saharanpur is 
Bareilly junction station if {R., 
D.B.) {population 129,462). From 
here one branch of the Rohilkhand 
and Kumaun Railway runs N. to 
(66 m.) Katkgodam, under Naini 
Tal, and (30 m.) to Pilibhit (D.B.) 
Nee p. 383), and another W. to 
Budaon, Kasganj, and Agra : an 
Oudh and Rohilkhand branch 
line runs to Chandausi and Aligarh 
on the E.I. Railway (see p. 403). 

By road Bareilly is 63 m. 
to Kathgodam, 47 m. to Shah- 
jahanpur, 52 m. on to Sitapur, 
and 52 m. farther on to Lucknow ; 

is 33 J m. to Pilibhit, 128 m. to 
Muttra. 132 m. to Agra. Petrol 
can be obtained at N.I Motor 
Cycle Agency, and also in Canton- 
nients. Accumulators can be 
^arged at the R. and K. Railway 
Llectric Power-house, near the city 


I station, or perhaps at the Canton- 
' ment Electric Light Station. 

I The city of Bareilly, the capital 
I of the country of Rohilkhand, 
known in the early history of 
India as Kather, was originally 
; founded by one Baral Deo in 
! 1537, and was refounded a hun- 
] dred years later. Ali Muhammad 
; Khan, the first Chief who united 
I the Rohillas under him, between 
1 1707 and 1720, made BareiUy 
! his headquarters, and Hafiz 
’ Rahmat Khan (about 1710- 
I I774)> ultimately succeeded 

him, extended his power from 
I Almora in the N. to Etawa in the 
^ S.W. The Rohillas, who were no 
j whit less turbulent than the other 
; fighting elements in India at that 
i period, and who took a prominent 
share in the dismemberment of the 
I Mughal Empire, ultimately pro- 
I voked an invasion of the Mahrat- 
I tas, and to buy them off executed 
I a promise to pay an indemnity of 
j 40 lakhs, for which the Nawab 
Wazir of Oudh stood surety. 

1 These transactions led to the 
j Rohilla War, 1772-4, in which the 
! ruler of Oudh, with the support 
j of British troops, conquered Rohil- 
; khand, Hafiz Rahmat being killed 
( in battle fighting valiantly.^ Faiz 
I UUah, son of Ali Muhammad 
j Khan, succeeded to the Chief ship 
I of the Rohillas. and from him the 
j present Chief of the Ram pur State 
' is descended. Bareilly passed to 
! the British by cession in 1801. In 
! 1816 an insurrection broke out in 
; consequence of the imposition of a 
' new tax on houses, and was sup- 
I pressed only with the loss of 
j several hundred men killed and 
I wounded. 

! On the outbreak of the Mutiny 
1 in 1857 there were no British 
: troops at Bareilly, but only a 
! native garrison consisting of two 
j Indian Infantrv regiments, one 
1 

I 1 Ihe tri:e narrative o*' the Ruhilla W ar, 
1 which formed one of the article^ of impeach- 
ment against Warren Hastings, may 'be read 
! in Sir John Strachev s Hasting's and the 
i Rohilla War. 



374 


India 


ROUTE 20. [a) SAHARANPUR TO MUGHALSARAI 


Native Cavalry regiment, and one j 
Battery. These revolted on 31st ' 
May, shortly after the arrival 1 
of fugitives from Ferozepore (p. ! 
352), and the Europeans in the 
station were obliged to fly for 
their lives, after a certain number, 
including the Brigadier - General, 
had been murdered ; the few who 
remained in the place were after- 
wards massacred by the order of 
Khan Bahadur Khan, grandson 
of Hafiz Rahmat Khan, who had 
been proclaimed ruler of the 
country, and who induced the 
Bareilly Brigade, under Subadar 
Bakht Khan, to march on loth of 
June to Delhi, where their leader 
was appointed General of the 
rebel army. From Bareilly four 
attempts were made on Naini Tal, 
but they all failed. The Enghsh 
forces retook Bareilly on 7th May 
1858, when all the insurgent 
leaders fled with Khan Bahadur 
into Oudh. In 1871 the peace of 
the city was again disturbed by 
serious religious riots, and since 
then religious differences have 
occasionally threatened to develop 
into actual fighting. 

The city of Bareilly contains 
some fine bazars and mosques. 
The place is famous for its splendid 
rows of Bamboos, from which it is 
commonly called Bans Bareilly ; 
many of these have, however, now 
disappeared. In the churchyard 
of the station church is the tomb of 
ISIr Thomason, Lieutenant-Gover- 
nor of the Province of x^gra, 1843- 
53, to whom, perhaps, more than 
to any one else, the present systems 
of land revenue and administration 
of N. India are due. 

220 m. from Saharanpur is 
Shahjahanpur junction. A branch 
line runs from here to (39 ra.) Mail- 
ani junction, on the Rohilkhand- 
Kumaun line from Bareilly to 
Lucknow (R.). There are also 
railways (i) to Pilibhit, 54 m. on 
the Rohilkhand-Kumaun line, and 
(2) to Sitapur, 56 m. on the Oudh 
and Rohilkhand line. Shahjahan- 


pur IS 48 m. to Fatehgarh. Chief 
town of a District, with civil 
station and formerly a military 
Cantonment (population 71,778), 
but the Cantonment is now occu- 
pied by the Army Clothing Factory 
and headquarters of the Depart- 
ment, no troops being stationed 
j here now. The station contains an 
English church and three churches 
for native converts belonging to 
the American Methodist Mission, 
which also supports several 
schools. The principal local 
manufacture is sugar. The Rosa 
sugar factory and rum distillery 
is situated on the Garra River, a 
few m. from the city, with which 
it is connected by railway. 

In 1857 the Europeans at the 
station were attacked by mutin- 
eers while at morning service on 
31st May, but managed to defend 
themselves in the church with the 
aid of some faithful sepoys, and to 
fall back on Muhamdi, in Oudh, 
where, however, they were all 
murdered shortly afterwards. 

259 m. Hardoi station (R., D.B.). 

322 m. Lucknow junction sta- 
I tion (R.). Branch S.W. to Cawn- 
i pore, S.E. to Rae Bareli, E. 

, to Fyzabad, and by the Bengal 
j and North-Western Railway to 
j Bahramghat (Chauka Ghat and 
! Gogra Ghat), and K. to Sitapur 
; and Bhojeepura (p. 383). 

From Lucknow two lines run to 
. Benares, the direct (1S7 m.) by Rae 
I Bar eh, which is 370 m. from 
i Saharanpur. and by Pertabgarh, 
j which is 429 m. from Saharanpur, 

, both the headquarters of districts; 

J and the older and longer (209 m.), 
by Fyzabad, 79 m. from Lucknow, 

I and Jaunpur, 163 m. There is 
I nothing of special interest to note 
■ on the former route, though Rae 
, Bareli, named from the once 
important tribe of Bhars, contains 
I an old fort of Ibrahim Sharki. 

’ The Bengal and N.W. Railway 
j connecting Oudh with Gorakhpur 
and Bihar (p. 421) runs alongside 



ROUTE 20. BARABANKl— FYZABAD 375 


of the loop route to (17 m.) Bara- 
banki junction, and then diverges 
to (22 m.) Bahramghat. From 
Gonda, 31 m. beyond the Gogra, 
two branches turn N. to (38 m.) 
Bahraich, Naipalganj Road, and 
Katarnian Gt^t, and 24 m. Bal- 
rampur, 93 m. Uska Bazar, and 
Gorakhpur. A branch line of the 
railway has been opened from 
Burhwal junction passing through 
Tahsil Fatehpur (14 m.) to Sitapur 
junction (60 m.) on the O. and 
R.R., and R. and K.R. Bahraich 
is famous for the tomb shrine of 
Syad Salar Masaud, nephew of the 
great ISIahmud of Ghazni, who was 
killed here in 1033 a.d. The 
shnne is about a mile Northwards 
from the railway station and 
about 2 m. from the town. Im- 
provements in the buildings have 
made the place more attractive 
to visitors. The ruins of Saheth- 
Maheth, on the borders of the 
Bahraich and Gonda Districts, 
mark the site of the ancient city 
of Sravasti and the famous Bud- 
dhist convent of the Jetavana. 
where the Buddha is said to have 
preached most of his sermons. 
The antiquities excavated are 
now preserved in the Lucknow 
Museum. The place can best be 
visited by riding an elephant from 
Balrampur. 


79 m. from Lucknow is Fyzabad 
junction station (R., D.B.). 


Branch to Ajodhya Ghat (6 m.), 
and thence to Bengal and N.W. 
Railway. The branch is now open 
only on the occasions of the three 
big fairs in Ajodhya. A line now 
connects Fyzabad and Allahabad, 
running through Sultanpur and 
Pertabgarh. Another line from 
Fyzabad to Mughalsarai passes 
Ajodhya. By road Fyzabad is 79 
m. to Gorakhpur, 29 m. to Gonda, 
38 m. to Utraula, Petrol obtain- 
able from Messrs Shank Lai, agents 
of the Assam Company ; also from 


Messrs Singh & Co., on the main 
road to Ajodhya. 

Fyzabad (population with Ajo- 
dhya, 62,446) is the headquarters 
of a District and of a Division. 
Once the capital of Oudh, the 
city has fallen into decay since 
the death, in 1816, of Bahu 
Begam, who resided here for 
many years. The first Nawab 
of Oudh, S’aadat Khan (1724- 
1739), seldom resided at Fyzabad, 
though it was his nominal capital ; 
so also his successor, Safdar Jang 
(1739-53); but Shuja - ud - daula 
(r753-75), who succeeded, took 
up his permanent residence there. 
When defeated at Buxar he fled 
to Fyzabad, and constructed the 
lofty entrenchment whose ram- 
parts of rammed clay stiU frown 
over the Gogra. At his death, in 
1775, his widow, the Bahu Begam, 
remained at Fyzabad, while Asaf- 
ud-daula, the then Nawab, re- 
moved to Lucknow. The city is 
bounded to the N. by the Gogra 
River, which here divides into two 
streams, both crossed by pontoon 
bridges There is a steamer service 
betiveen Ajodhya Ghat and Lakar-' 
mandi during the rainy season. 
The Cantonment lies to the N.W. 
of the Indian city, at the S.W. 
corner of which the railway to 
Benares passes. The Mausoleum ofi 
the Bahu Begam, wife of ShukaJ 
ud-daula, Nawab of Oudh, and ‘ 
mother of Asaf-ud-danla, is the 
finest mausoleum in the Province 
of Oudh and its neighbourhood. 
The cenotaph is of marble, without 
inscription. The total height may 
be taken at 1 40 f t . There is a very 
fine view from the top. This lady 
was one of the two Begams of Oudh 
whose alleged ill-treatment formed 
a subject of indictment of Warren 
Hastings on which Burke and 
Sheridan wasted much misplaced 
oratory. As a matter of fact, 
although Asai-ud-daula and- the 
British officials acting with him 
did put considerable pressure on 
the servants of the two Begams (of 



India 


376 ROUTE 20. (a) SAHARANPUR TO MUGHALSARAI 


whom the mother of Shuja-ud- 
daula was known as the Mani 
Begam) to compel them to dis- 
close where the State money of 
which the ladies had possessed 
themselves was hid, the ladies 
themselves were left untouched. 
It may be added that they wrote 
letters of condolence to Warren 
Hastings on his trial ! The 
I Mausoleum of Shuja-ud-daula is 
I close by, and is something like the 
' Begam's, but not nearly so grand 
or imposing. At each of the four 
corners of the building are an 
oblong and a square reservoir. 
In the centre space on the ground 
floor are three tombstones without 
inscription. The middle slab is 
that of Shuja - ud - daula. His 
mother’s is to the W., and that of 
his son, Mansur 'Ali, to the E. In 
the W. side of the enclosure is a 
mosque at the N. end, with an 
Imambara on the S. The Civil 
Station Cantonments and environs 
are beautifully wooded with in- 
numerable tamarind, mango, and 
other trees. 

The Guptar Park is prettily laid 
out ; at the S. end of it is a temple 
where Rama is said to have dis- 
appeared. 

6 m. Ajodhya station (Sanskrit 
Ayodhya), on the banks of the 
Gogra, is the place where the great 
Ram Chandra once reigned. The 
ancient city is said to have covered 
an area of 48 kos, or g6 m., and to 
have been the capital of Koshala, 
the country of the Solar race of 
Kings, of whom Manu was the first. 

, A copper grant of Jai Chand, 
the last of the Kanauj Rathors, 
dated 1187 a.d., was found near 
Fyzabad. The Chinese traveller 
Hiuen Tsang found at Ajodhya 
twenty Buddhist monasteries with 
3000 monks. According to him, 
the celebrated Toothbrush-tree of 
Buddha grew here. 

The road from Fyzabad Canton- 
ment to Ajodhya (4 m.) is excel- 
lent, and it may be found more 
convenient than the railway. On 


’ ► entering Ajodhya the Janam 
Sthan Temple will be found on 
the left. In the sanctum, the door 
of which has a silver frame, are 
images of Sita and Rama. Rama 
has a gleaming jewel of large size, 
which looks like a light- coloured 
sapphire. The temple is an ob- 
long of about 200 ft. by 150 ft. 
The walls are 45 ft. high, and seem 
strong enough for a fortress ; 
which justifies its name of Hanu- 
man Garhi (“ Hanuman’s For- 
tress ”). The neighbouring trees 
iswarm with grey monkeys. 

I To the N.W. is the temple of 
iKanak Bhawan, or Sone Ka Garh, 
with images of Sita and Rama 
crowned .with gold, whence the 
name “ Hall of Gold.” This is 
said to be the oldest temple of all. 


Ihe Janam Sthan, or place 
where Ram Chandra was born, is 
jr m. W. of the Hanuman Garhi ; 
it is a plain masonry platform, 
just outside a temple, but within 
the enclosure on the left-hand side. 
The primeval temple perished, but 
was rebuilt, and was converted by 
Babar into a mosque. Europeans 
are expected to take oh their shoes 
if they enter the building, which 
is quite plain, with the exception 
of twelve black pillars taken from 
the old temple. On the pillar on 
the left of the door on entering 
may be seen the remains of a 
figure. 

At about i m. to the N. of 
Janam Sthan is Swarga Dwara, or 
Ram Ghat, where Rama was cre- 
mated. S.W. is Lakshman’s Ghat, 
where Lakshman, the half-brother 
of Rama, used to bathe, i m. to 
the S. of Hanuman Garhi is the 
Mani Pavhat, and to its S. again 
are the Kuver Parbat and Sugriv 
Parbat, mounds of great antiquity. 
The Mani Parbat Hill is 65 ft. 
high, and is covered with broken 
of masonry. 
The bricks are ii in. square and 
3 in. thick. At 46 ft. above the 
ground, on the W. side, are the 



ROUTE 20. AjODHYA — JAUNPUR 


377 


remains of a curved wall faced 
with kankar blocks. General 
Cunningham supposes that the 
great monastery described by 
Hiuen Tsang is the Sugriv Parhat, 
which is 560 ft. long by 300 ft. 
broad, and that the Mani Parbat 
IS the Stupa of Asoka, built on the 
spot where Buddha preached the 
law during his six years’ residence 
at Saketa. 

163 m. from Lucknow is JAtTK- 
PUR City (36 m. from Benares, 
57 tn. from Allahabad, 44 m. 
from Mirzapur) station (R,, B.B.). 
There are two stations — the O. and 
R. Railway and the B. and N.W. 
Railway — at Jaunpur ; the Civil 
Lines, or 2 afarabad station, is 4 m. 
farther on. There are no shops 
for petrol or motor repairs. The 
town is celebrated for the manu' 
facture of perfumes. 

Jaunpur i (population 32,880), 
named after Juna Khan, known as 
Muhammad bin Tughiak (1325-51), 
and founded by Firoz Shah Tugh- 
lak in 1360 (pp. 270-1), is a place 
of much interest. Vast Hindu 
temples and Buddhist monasteries 
stood here near the Gumti ; there 
are many little tombs and shrines, 
in which, says Fergusson (i, 228), 
the Muslims have used up Hindu 
and Jain pillars. Jaunpur was 
the capital of an independent 
Muhammadan kingdom (the 
Sharki, or Eastern, dynasty) from 
I397"^47S, and retained a partial 
independence until finally con- 
quered by Akbar in 1559. Thestone 
Bridge, 654 ft. long, over the 
Gumti, was erected in the reign of 
that Emperor. It consists of ten 
spans, besides those standing on 
the land, the middle group of four 
being larger than the three at each 
end. It was designed by Afzal 
’Ali, a Kabuli architect, at the 

^ For the architecture of Jaunpura volume 
published by Messrs Fuhrer and Smith of 

Archeological Survey of •India, entitled 
/T Architecture of JaunPur i 

( Irubner), may be consulted, andFergusssOn’s ' 
Architecture, 2, ^22. 


expense of Munim Khan, one of 
Akbar’ s high officers. It was 
commenced in 1564 and completed 
in 1568, and is said to have cost 
£300,000. Formerly there were 
shops on either side, but these 
were destroyed during the flood 
of 1774 : subsequently they were 
rebuilt, and there are now 74 shops 
on either side of the bridge. At a 
market-place at the S. end of the 
bridge is a stone lion somewhat 
larger than life, which was found in 
the fort. Under it is a young 
elephant, which it is supposed to 
have seized. From this all dis- 
tances in the city and province 
were calculated. 

Rear the bridge on the left bank 
is the Fort (built in 1360 a.d.) of 
Firoz, containing the Fort Mas] id, 
almost entirely constructed from 
ruined temples. The entrance 
gate, 47 ft. high, is covered with 
kashani hak^ a sort of blue and 
yellow enamelled bricks, of which 
beautiful portions remain. The 
inner gate has many stones of 
Hindu temples built into the walls, 
on some of which is carved a bell. 
At 200 ft. from this gate is a low 
mosque, 130 ft. by 22 ft., divided 
into three chambers by lateral 
walls, with a reservoir in front, 
and a remarkable lat, or minar, 
apparently unaltered since its 
erection, and beautifully inscribed. 
The river-face of the Fort is 300 ft. 
beyond this pillar. It is 1 50 ft. in 
perpendicular height, and com- 
mands a noble view of the country 
and city. Before reaching it a 
round tower, called the magazine, 
will be noticed, with a hammam, 
or bath, on the left. 

Some 400 yds. to the N. of the 
bridge and fort, and not far from 
the Post Office and Town Pall, is 
the N. entrance of the Atala 
Masjid,^ erected in 1408 on the 
site of an old Hindu temple dedi- 

^ The chief features of the Jaunpur 
mosques are tbe use of Jain materials, the 
two-storeyed arcades, the great gates, and 
the large central screen arches of the mosque 
proper. 



India 


ROUTE 20. {a) SAHARANPUR TO MUGHALSARAI 


378 

cated to the goddess Atala Devi, 
which was destroyed in Sultan 
Ibrahim's reign (1401 - 40) and 
the materials used up for the 
mosque. On the principal mihrab 
('"arch"), built of black marble, 
immediately in the centre of the 
main W. wall of the Masjid proper, 
in which the prayers are said, is a 
verse from the Koran, and above 
it the creed. The facade is 75 ft. 
high. Almost in the centre of the 
large courtyard, and to the N.E. of 
the musallah, or praying-ground, 
is a well with a fine citron-leaved 
Indian fig-tree [Ficus venosa ) . At 
the S.W. corner of the large 


Some attribute the design to 
Ibrahim, as his family lie in the 
cloistered court of a building 
adjoining the N. side of the 
Masjid. On entering the S. gate 
an inscription (upside down) in 
Sanskrit, of the 8th century, will 
be seen on one of the outer vous- 
soirs of the exterior arch ; another 
in Tughra characters over the top 
of the central mihrab ; and a third 
in Arabic characters around the 
outer margin of the arch. The N., 
S., and E. sides are in a dilapidated 
condition, and were probably 
destroyed by Sikandar Lodi. The 
N. and S. entrance - gates have 



square is a chamber screened by 
a lattice of stone, intended for the 
women. Leading from it to the 
roof is a staircase. Behind the 
propylon, screening the dome from 
the courtyard and surrounding 
three sides of the drum of the 
dome, is a chamber some ii ft. 
high and 6 ft. wide. 

J m. N.W. of the Atala mosque, 
raised on a platform some 20 ft. in 
height, is the splendid Jami 
Masjid, built by Sultan Hasan 
(1452- 78), 1 commenced by Shah 
Ibrahim 1438, finished after 1478, 

> Thi^ K-ing A’as conquered by Sultan 
Bahlol Lodi, of Delhi, but was allowed to 
remain in Jaunpur. 


been restored, and are surmounted 
by domes. In the cloisters and 
walls many stones from Hindu 
temples have been utilised. Its 
general arrangement resembles 
that of the Atala and the Lai 
Darwaza Mosque (see p. 379)7 
and the fa9ades are not unlike, 
although the cloisters here have 
three tiers, whilst those at the 
Atala have only two. The mosque 
proper is very massive, almost 
fort - like in construction. It 
measures 59 ft. by 235 ft., includ- 
ing the thickness of the walls but 
not the bastions at the angles. It 
is divided into five compartments 
on the ground floor, and above are 




ROUTE 20. JAUNPUR — BENARES 


370 


two zenana chambers, one on each 
side of the grand dome, with 
splendid stone carved ceilings. 
On the E. side is an immense 
propylon 8o ft. high, divided by 
string courses into five storeys. 

N. of the mosque is the burial- 
ground of the Shark! Kings, the 
walls of which approach the N. 
wall of the mosque within 30 ft. 
In the quadrangle is the tomb of 
Ghiilam 'Alt, -with a fine Persian 
inscription. In the centre, be- 
yond this tomb, is that of Sultan 
Ihrahim Shah. The only inscrip- 
tion is on a round stone in the 
centre, which has the Kalima. 

Next to the tomb of Ibrahim 
is that of his grandson, Sultan 
Hasan Shah. 

Besides those already mentioned, 
SIX other mosques deserve visiting : 
(1) The Charungli, or Prlosque of 
Malik Khalis Mukhlis, built on 
the site of the favourite temple of 
Vi java Chandra, which was broken 
down by Malik Khalis and Alalik 
Mukhlis, by order of Sultan 
Ibrahim. In one of the pillars is 
a black stone, still worshipped 
by the Hindus. (2) Chachakpur 
Mosque, called Jhanjhri Mas] id 
on account of the “ screen-like 
appearance of its ornamentation, 
was a temple built by Jai Chandra, 
and converted by Ibrahim into a 
mosque. {3) To the W. of the 
city is the Lai Darwaza Mosque, 
so called in memory of the “ high 
gate painted with vermilion " 
belonging to the palace erected 
close by at the same time by 
Bibi Rajo, Queen of Sultan ^lah- 
mud {1440 - 52). This is the 
smallest of the Jaunpur mosques. 
The style of architecture is the 
same as that of the Jami and 
Atala Masjids, but the building 
throughout is on a less massive 
and much Ughter scale. The date 
is uncertain, though probably the 
cloisters of the court were erected 
about 1447. On the N,, S., and 
E. sides of the court are massive 
gate entrances. The cloisters are 
two bays deep, and the W. walls. 


as well as the cloisters, are panelled. 
The columns deserve study on 
account of their variety. The 
propylon, the principal feature of 
the building, standing in the centre 
of the W. facade, is 48 ft. 6 in. 
high, and is wider at the base than 
the top. The towers contain 
staircases leading to a mezzanine 
floor on each side of the dome. 
The principal mihrab is of black 
stone. On the top of the archi- 
trave is an Arabic inscription. 

(4) Mosque of Nawah Muhsin Klian. 
Sukh Mandil. who was the Diwan 
of Khan Zaman Khan, had built 
a temple where this mosque 
stands. When Khan Zaman was 
killed the building came into the 
hands of Muhsin Khan, one of 
Akbar’s courtiers, who destroyed 
the temple and built a mosque. 

(5) The Mosque of Shall Kabir, 
built by Baba Beg Jalagur, 
governor of Jaunpur in Akbar’s 
reign, in 1567, in honour of the 
saint Shah Kabir. (6) The Tdgah 
Mosque, built by Sultan Hasan, 
and repaired in Akbar's reign by 
Khan Khanan. Afterwards it fell 
into a ruinous state, and was 
deserted till restored by Mr 
Welland. 

167 m, Zafarabad station for 
the Civil Lines of Jaunpur. The 
Cburcii (Holy Trinity) contains a 
tablet to Manton CoUingwood 
Ommaney, B.C.S., Judicial Com- 
missioner of Oudh, who rebuilt it 
in 1852, and died at Lucknow 
during the siege. A few officers 
were killed on -the outbreak of 
the Mutiny at Jaunpur in 
1857, but the majority of the 
Europeans escaped safely to 
Benares. 

The mosque of Shaikh Barha, in 
Zafarabad, composed wholly of 
Jain materials, is the oldest at 
Jaunpur. 

509 m. from Saharanpur by 
Rae Bareli Benares station (see 
Route 4) 



I'ndia 


380 ROUTE 20 . (b) LHAKSAR 

519 m. Muglialsarai junction 
station, "with the East Indian 
Railway (see p. 46). 

(b) 

Lhaksar (p. 372). 

16 m. Hard war station (popula- 
tion a8,68z ; height above sea- 
level is 1024 ft.) is situated on the 
right bank of the Ganges, at the 
southern base of the Siwalik range, 
at the mouth of a gorge through 
which that great river eaters the 
plains. It should be seen by all 
travellers. The canal bank is 
closed by locked gates at intervals, 
so the key should be obtained 
from the canal oifice. The Ganges 
here divides into several channels, 
intercepted by large islands, many 
of which are placed beyond the 
reach of high hood -water. One of 
these channels commences about 
2j m. above Hard war, and flows 
by it, and by Mayapur and Kank- 
hal, rejoining the parent stream a 
little below the last town. The 
Ganges canal system commences 
at Hardwar, the head-waters being 
taken from a spot on this bank 
between Mayapur and Kankhal. 

The new Binmgoda head works 
are designed to remove difficulties 
in controlling supply of water for 
the Ganges Canal. The length of 
the weir is 2000 ft., divided into 
six bays of equal length. It will 
be able to pass a flood of 445,000 
“ cusecs "" over the crest. A new 
supply channel is being con- 
structed. 

The town is of great antiquity, 
and has borne many names. It 
was originally known as Kapila, 
or Gnpila, from the sage Gupila, 
who passed a long period here in 
religious austerities at a spot still 
called Kapila Sthana. 

In the 7th century a.d. the 
Chinese pii^m Hiuen Tsang 
visited a city which he calls 
Mo-Yu-Lo, which General Cun- ! 
ningham identifies with Mayapur, \ 


JUNCTION TO HARDWAR 

a little S. of the modem Hardwar.^ 
Timur sacked the place in January 
i 399 ^ The name of Hardwar, 
“ Door of Hari or Vishnu,'* is com- 
paratively modern, and probably 
does not date farther back than 
1400 A.D. 

The great object of attraction is 
the temple of Gangadwara (see 
p. 381) and the adjoining bathing 
ghat. This ghat has its name 
from the char an, or footprint of 
Hari, impressed on a stone let 
into the upper wall, which is an 
object of great veneration at the 
annual gathering. Each pilgrim 
struggles to be first to plunge into 
the pool after the propitious 
moment has arrived, and stringent 
police regulations are required to 
prevent the crowed from trampling 
one another to death and drowning 
each other in the sacred water. 
In 1819, 430 persons lost their 
lives in this manner, after which 
accident Government built the 
present enlarged ghat of 60 steps 
100 ft. wide. The advantages 
supposed to be derived from bath- 
ing m the Ganges are the cleansing 
from all sins. The great assem- 
blage of pilgrims takes place on 
the ist of Baisakh (March- April), 
the day on which the Ganges is 
said to have first appeared, and 
when the Hindu solar year begins. 

Every twelfth year, the planet 
Jupiter being in Aquarius, a feast 
of peculiar sanctity occurs, called a 
Kianhh-mela^ attended by enor- 
mous crowds. In ordinary years 
the pilgiims amount to 100,000, 
and at the Kumhh'mela to 300,000. 
Riots and bloody fights used to be 
common ; in 1760, on the last day 
of bathing (xoth April), the rival 
mobs of the Gosain and Bairagi 
sects had a battle, in which 
18,000 are said to have perished. 
In 1795 the Sikh pilgrims slew 
500 Gosains. The last Kumbh- 
mela in April 1915 passed ofl 
quietly ; it was estimated that 

j between 500.000 and 600,000 were 

I ^ For the ancient history of Hardwar, see 

I A.rcht£ol Hep. a, 2^1. 





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ROUTE 20. HARDWAR DEHRA DUN 


381 


present on the great bathing day : 
elaborate railway, lighting, and 
sanitary arrangements were re- 
quired and made. 

Gangadwara is celebrated in the 
Puranas as the scene of Daksha's 
sacrifice, to which he neglected to 
invite Siva, the husband of his 
daughter Sati. Sati attended the 
‘^acrihce m spite of Siva's warning 
not to do so, and was so shocked 
at her father’s disrespect that she 
vent to the bank of the Ganges, 
and by her owti splendour con- 
.■>umed her body. Enraged at 
Sati s death, Siva produced Vira- 
Bhadra, who cut off Daksha’s 
head and threw it in the fire. 
Siva restored Daksha to life, but 
as his head had been consumed, 
replaced it with that of a goat or 
ram. The spot where Daksha is 
'supposed to have prepared his 
sacrifice is now marked by the 
Temple of Daksheswara, a form of 
Siva. It is at the S. end of 
Kankhal, 2^ m. below the bathing 
‘diat. Around the temple are 
several smaller ones of no interest. 

There are three old teynples at 
Hardwar — to Naravana-shila, to 
Maya-devi, and to Bhairava. 

The Temple of Navavana'Shtla is 
made of bricks, gj in. square and 
2 1 in. thick, and is plastered on the 
outside. The Temple of Maya- 
devi is built entirely of stone, and 
General Cunningham thinks it may 
be as old as the loth or nth cen- 
tury. The principal statue, which 
is called lMa>\a - devi, is a three- 
hea,ded and iour-armed female in 
the act of killing a prostrate 
figure ; in one hand is a discus, 
m another what resembles a 
human head, and in a third a 
trident. Close by is a squatting 
figure with eight arms, which 
must be Siva, and outside the 
temple is the bull Nandi. Out- 
side the Temple of Sayvvanafh is a 
statue of Buddha under the Bodhi- 
tree accompanied by two standing 
and two flying figures. On the 
pedestal is a wheel, with a lion on 
either side. 


I From Hardwar many pilgrims 
’ proceed to visit the shrine of 
Kedarnath, a name of Siva, and 
that of Bhadrinath, far up in the 
Himala^rn Mountains. 

4S m. from Lucknow Dehra Dun 
for Doon) is the headquarters of 
, the Dehra Dun District. By road 
, Dehra Dun is 43 m. to Roorkee, 
60 rti. to Chakra ta (D.B.), (popu- 
, lation 54 , Si 2), 4^ m. to Saharan- 
i pur, 7 m. to Rajpur, 31 m. to 
j Hardwar. Petrol usually obtain- 
: able from Fitch & Co., on the 
I Rajpur road. At Kalsi, 32 m. 
i from Dehra Dun, on the Chakrata 
! Road, near the D.B , on the right 
I bank of the Jumna, is the Kalsi 
' stone, inscribed with an edict of 
i Asoka. Dehra itself (85,886 in- 
’ habitants) is prettily situated in 
! the midst of a mountain valley 
, 2300 ft. above sea-level. It wms 
I founded bv Guru Ram Rai, who 
. settled in the Dun at the end of 
I the 17th century. His temple, on 
i the pattern of the mausoleum of 
I the Emperor Jahangir at Shah- 
■ dara, forms the chief ornament of 
I the town. At Dehra Dun is the 
! Indian Forest School, to which is 
i attached an exceedingly pretty 
I Botanical Garden. The place is 
also the headquarters of the Vice- 
regal Bodyguard 

In the earliest ages of Hindu 
legend Dehra Dun formed part of 
a region known as Kedarkhand, 
the abode of Siva, from whom also 
: the Siwalik Hills are called. Here 
i Rama and his brother are said to 
' have done penance for killing 
Ravana, and here the five Pandus 
1 stopped on their way to the snowy 
range where they immolated 
! themselves. Authentic history 
' knows nothing of Dehra Dun till 
the 17th century, when Ram Rai 
was driven from the Pan jab and 
the Sikh Guruship on account of 
i doubts as to his legitimacy. In 
I 1757 Najib-ud-daula, Governor of 
I Saharanpur, occupied the Dun, 

I but he died in 1770, when the 
' country was swept by various 



382 ROUTE 20. {b) LHAKSAR 

invaders, last of all the Gurkhas. 
At the end of the Gurkha War, in 
1815, these ceded the country to 
the British, who had easily occu- 
pied Dehra, and taken the strong 
hill fortress of Kalanga after a 
gallant defence, in which Sir Rollo 
Gillespie, the gallant soldier who 
suppressed the Mutiny at \^enore 
(p. 537), was killed. There is a 
monument to the slain a short 
distance from Dehra. 

The approach to Mussoorie 
from Dehra is by Raj pur ^ (7 m.), 
a large native village, and at an 
elevation of about 3000 ft. (tonga, 
Rs.3, as.i2, Rs.3, Rs. 2, as.4). The 
road from Rajpur to Mussoorie arc 
very steep, and the journey can 
be made only by pony (Rs. 5) or 
dandy (Rs.5). 

About half-way u'p is Jharipani, 
a halting-place, where there is 
water and a bazar ; and here, at 
an elevation of 5000 ft., are the 
first houses of the European resi- 
dents. 

4 m. Mussoorie, ^ a hill station 
(population 17,420), d.nd Landour, 
the adjacent Convalescent Depot 
for British troops, are situated 
upon one of the outer ranges of 
the Himalayas, which lie to the N. 
of Dehra Dun. The hill on which 
Mussoorie is built rises from the 
plains in the form of a horse-shoe, 
gradually ascending to the centre, 
and enclosing in the hollow a 
number of ridges, which lose 
themselves .in the mass above. 
Ridges also run down from the 
back of a hill to a valley in which 
flows a tributary of the Jumna ; 
between the ridges N. and S. are 
deep, wooded gorges. The greater 
number of the houses are built at 
an elevation of from 6000 to 7200 
ft., mainly on the S. side of the 
hill. The view from Mussoorie 
over the valley of the Dun and 
across the Siwalik Hills to the 
plains is very beautiful, as also is 
the view towards the N., which is 
bounded by the peaks of the snowy 
range. The hills, on the side 


JUNCTION TO HARDWAR India 

I nearest the plains exposed to the 
1 prevaihng winds, are nearly bare, 

I and the visitor misses the pine and 
i deodar forests which form so 
, beautiful a feature at Simla and 
I other Himalayan stations. To 
! the X., however, not far below the 
; ridge, trees are plentiful. They 
1 are principally oak, rhododendron, 
and fir. In sheltered places apri- 
j cots, apples, pears, and cherries 
i flourish, together with many 
1 English annual and perennial 
■ plants. The climate is delightful. 


! Landour 5{c (population 3,518) is 
I a little to the S.E. of Mussoorie, 

■ connected with it by a narrow spur 
I 200 yds. long and from 20 yds to 
I 30 yds. in breadth, wuth a sheer 
j precipice of from 80 ft. to 100 ft. 

; on either side. It rises rather 
' abruptly to the Landour Hill, the 
j highest point of which is about 
I 900 ft. above the average of the 
j Mussoorie ridge. The houses and 
I barracks are built upon the ascend- 
I ing slope of the spur and upon the 
i precipitous slopes of the ridge. 

! The barracks face the S. There is 
I a permanent Anglo-Indian popu- 
‘ lation at Landour and Mussoone, 
i and a large influx of visitors dur- 
i ing the hot season. English and 
' Roman Catholic churches exist at 
! both places, with numerous schools 
I a. id boarding-houses, and at Mus- 
soorie a public library, masonic 
, lodge, club, brewery, and three 
, banks. 

, There is a good road from Mus- 
1 soorie (148 m ) to Simla via 
\ Chakrata, a military hill station 
! 7000 ft. above the sea, in the centre 
I of the District called Jaunsar 
Bawar (21 m.). The accommoda- 
tion on the way is, ho weaver, not 
, large, though there are forest 
I R.Hs. at most halts, and tents, 
food, and servants should be 
; taken (see p. 291). The number 
j of marches is tw'elve. The highest 
; point crossed is the Patemafla 
j Mountain (9368 ft.), 33 m. from 
i Simla. 




NAINI TAL AND ENVIRONS 



Efighrt HI f.nijlt>h Fe, 


Dtpdi'i u 



ROUTE 20. BHOJEEPURA — NAINI TAL 


383 


ic) 

Bareilly (see p. 37.^). 

II m. Bhojeepura junction. The 
main Rohilkhand - Kumaim line 
runs from here E. and S to 36 m. 
Pilibhit, 1 15 m. Lakhimpur, 143 
m, Sitapur, and passing throii gh 
tiie old Cantonment of Alariaon, 
to 198 m. Lucknow. One of the 
saddest incidents of 1S57 occurred 
in connection with the Europeans 
at Sitapur, where the troops 
mutinied on 3rd June. Those 
who escaped suffered the extrem- 
ity of distress for four months at 
one time in the jungles, at another 
in the custody of false friends ; 
and the few who remained were 
ultimately sent to the Kaisar- 
bagh in Lucknow (p. 397). Of 
the whole number only one child, 
smuggled into the Alambagh by 
a trusty Indian, and two ladies 
were finally saved. 

The Rohilkhand-Kumaun line 
runs N. to Kathgodam The 
other railways from Sitapur are (a) 
a branch metre-gauge line to Shah- 
jahanpur, and (b) a branch, of the 
Oudh and Rohilkhand Une, to 
Balamau, connecting with the mam 
line to Baredlv. 

64 m. from Bareilly is Kathgo- 
dam (R.) terminus station. ^ By 
road it is 63 m. from Bareilly to 
Kathgodam ; and on to Naim Tal 
the distance is 21 m. There is 
direct tonga and motor service 
from Kathgodam to Naini Tal. 
From the railway station the coun- 
try IS flat for 2 m. as far as Rani- 
bagh (D B.). The road then as- 
cends the valley of the Balaya, 
amidst picturesque scenery, with 
waterfalls flowing down deep 
ravines, to (12 m.) Brewefv 

Here the steep ascent of the ghat 
(3 m, to Naini Tal) commences 
On the w 3 iY up “ Douglas Dale/’ a 
pleasant halting-place, is passed , 


i. Naini Tal, ^ (D.B.) f popula- 
tion 18,027) is 21 m. by the cart- 
' road from Kathgodam. It is a 
favourite sanatorium of the Llmted 
I Provinces, and the summer resi- 
dence of the Lieutenant-Governor, 
I and of the General Officer com- 
: manding the 7th IMeerut Division. 

1 It is extremely picturesque, the 
I lake forming a most striking 
I feature ; but for travellers with a 
! limited time at their disposal it 
j does not possess the attractions of 
I Darjeeling or Simla. The highest 
I peaks are to the N.W. — as China, 

I which IS 8 56 8 ft. above sea - level, 
j Deopatta, 7589 ft., etc. 

{ Tire Lake is nearly i m. long 
and 400 yds. broad, with an area 
of 120 acres. The flood-level is 
6410 ft above the sea. The depth 
I ranges from 5 fathoms at the N. 

I end to 15 J in the broadest part ; 

and there are Sitlpimr Springs at 
1 the end near the Convalescent 
j Depot. 

' The principal residences lie to 
the N W. of the lake, where, close 
to the shore, are the Assembly 
Rooyns with Library, and the 
Masonic Hall, the Club about ^ m. 
farther, the Post Ofjice lying on the 
way, and some Europe ayi shops. 
The Cricket, Polo, and Lawn 
Teyuiis Grouyids ; the Racquet- 
court, Bathing - sheds. Billiard 
Rooyris, and Public Gardens are all 
near the Assembly Rooms. There 
are numerous Educational Insiitu- 
iiofis, including a Kindergarten. 
The Lady Duiferin Hospital was 
opened in 1S90. 

The Church of St John iyi the 
Wilderness, J m. beyond the Club, 
j is built of stone. It has a roof of 
! dark-coloured wood, and has two 
stained -glass windows. There is a 
; handsome brass under the window 
[ on the N. side of the communion- 
i table, in memory of Cuthbert 
I Bensley Thornhill, C.S.I. 

On iSth September 1880 a sad 
catastrophe occurred at Naini Tal. 
On Thursday, the i6th of Septem- 
ber, rain fell in torrents, and con- 
tinued during Friday and Satur- 



India 


384 ROUTE 20. (c) BAREILLY JUNCTION TO NAINI TAL 


day, by which time 33 in. had 
fallen in the twenty-four hours. 
The Victoria Hotel, which stood 
about 280 yds. to the N. of the N. 
corner of the lake, had a lofty hill 
at its back. At ten o’clock on the 
morning of Saturday, the i8th, a 
slight landslip occurred on the spur 
of the hill behind the hotel, crush- 
ing in the outhouses and a portion 
of the rear of the premises, and 
burying several Indians and one 
European child. The Assistant- 
Commissioner, Mr Leonard Tay- 
lor, with some police and labourers, 
came at once to render assistance, 
and sent for the mihtary, who 
hastened to the spot under the 
command of Captain Balderstone. 
The work of extricating the dead 
and wounded went on till 1,30 p.m., 
when in a moment the whole 
precipitous clih overhanging the 
i>pot fell with a tremendous roar, 
burying at once the hotel, the 
soldiers, the assembly rooms, 
library, orderly room, road, and 
garden. Almost every person in 
the buildings and grounds was 
entombed, and it was utterlj* 
impossible to extricate any of 
them. 

There is a pretty ride on the W. 
side of the lake, where the visitor 
may ascend to a considerable 
height. But the finest views will 
be obtained on the E. side — 
e.g., from Sher ka Danda, whence 
the snowy mountains beyond 
Almora and Ranikhet may be 
seen. 

An excursion may also be made 
by a very pretty road from Naini 
Tal to Bhim Tal, 12 m. (bungalow 
and fishing), to Naukuchia Tal, 
2 or 3 m. from Bhim Tal (camping- 
ground and fishing), and to Maiwa 
Tal, 10 m. from Bhim Tal over the 
hills, a very pretty lake (bunga- 
low ; fishing and good shooting 
procurable). From Bhim Tal it 
is possible to return direct to 
Kathgodam (7 m.). 

The stages on the round route 
to Ranikhet and Almora are as 
below ; the direct route from 


Kathgodam to these places is by 
Bhim Tal. There is a good cart- 
road from Naini Tal to Ranikhet. 
and Almora, but not from Almora 
direct to Naini Tal. Pony to 
Ranikhet or Almora, Rs.y, 8 as,; 
dandy, Rs.3, 2 as. 

The distances by cart-road are : 
Naini Tal to Ranikhet, 36 m. ; 
Ranikhet to Almora, 29 m. ; Rani- 
khet to Ramnagar, 61 m. These 
roads can all be used by motors, 
except the last-named, on which 
7 m. of the 61 m. are unfit ; but 
some of the bends are sharp. The 
ruling gradient is i in 20, but is 
sometimes steeper. 


Nos. 

Nnmes of Stages. 

Miles from 
Stage to 
Stage. 

I 

From Naini Tal to 



Khairna U.B. 

12 

> 

From Khairna to Rani- 



khet D.B. 

1 5 


From Ranikhet to 



Majhkali I).B. 

S 

4 

From Majhkali to Al- 



mora D.B. 

16 


From Almora to Peora 



D B. 

10 

6 1 

From Peora to Ram- 



garh B. 

10 


From Ramgarh to 


7 j 

Naini Tal 


i j 

Total 

84 


At Khaima, on the Kosi River, is 
mahsir fishing, also gooral shoot- 
ing, and a few leopards in the hills. 
From Khairna to Almora by the 
river is rough going. 

Ranikhet (D.B.), with Chau- 
battia, an important military hill 
station. Population 8781. Eleva- 
tion between 6000 ft. and 7000 ft. 
The views of the Himalaya snows 
from this station are very grand. 

Almora, * (D.B.) , the chief town 
of the Almora District, 5500 ft. 
above sea - level ; population, 
10,560. There was much severe 
fighting round Almora in the 



ROUTE 21. LUf'-KNOW 


Gurkha War, and the place is now i 
a station for two battalions of i 
Gurkhas. It is also resorted to i 
by persons with weak lungs. The 1 
views of the snows are fine. In ' 
the neighbourhood are the Jain a , 
and Binsar fruit orchards. \ 

Almora to Pindri Glacier, six } 
inarches (D.B, on the w^ay, but no | 
supplies or attendance). Best [ 
tune of year, ^lay, September, or i 
October. i 


ROUTE 21 . I 

LUCKNOW (Lakhnau) (p. 374) 1 
(It.) He. is 619 m. from Calcutta by | 
the E.I. Railway and O. and R. j 
Railway, and 885 m. from Bombay I 
by the G.I.P, Railway. By road , 
Lucknow is 79 m. to Fyzabad, 52 ! 

to Sitapur, 67 m. to Hardoi, j 
49 m. to Cawnpore, 51 m. to Rae 
Bareli. ' 

The Oriental Motor Company has j 
a garage on the Hazratganj road ; ! 
other garages are the Upper India 
Motor Company, on the Shah i 
^ajaf Road ; H. G. Procter^ and 
the Oudh Motor Works, Outram | 
Road ; Eduljee Company : The ! 
Exchange. 

The city covers 36 sq. m., and | 
has a population of 259,798, j 
including the Cantonments, of 1 
^hom less than three - fifths are j 
Bindus, and the Muhammadans j 
S'bout 100,000. It is situated 1 
m lat. 26° 5P, long. So° 58^ i 
^nd is the largest city in the j 
Indian Empire after Calcutta, , 
Madras, Bombay, and Hyderabad, i 
B has been the capital of Oudh i 
Muce 1775, but contains very little ' 
interest outside the Chauk , 


385 

Bazar, on the N. side, opening 
on to the Machhi Bhawan, and 
the shrine of Hazrat Abbas, to the 
S.W. of this. The chief art pro- 
ducts of the city are silver work and 
the clay models winch iia\-e largely 
taken the place of the terra-cotta 
models for which Lucknow was 
famous a few years ago. “ Bidri 
and Zarbaland " work will soon 
lie a lost art, as there are only two 
craftsmen left, and they pick up a 
very precarious existence from 
their few sales. Lucknow, by 
reason of its climate, parks, and 
gardens, and its many interesting 
sights, is a charming place at which 
to make a stay. It cannot pos- 
sibly be well seen under two and a 
half davs. 


Short Description of Lucknow and 
of the Places of Interest in it. 

Lucknow stands in a bend of the 
Gumti, the Residency on the N. 
and the Martinifere on the E. being 
equidistant {2^ m.) from the Char^ 
bagh. W. of the Northern hne 
from this point is the city, with 
the Machhi Bhawan, the Imam- 
bara, and the Jami Ma-^jid 
between it and the river : and 
E. of it is the Civil Station, 
with the palaces and other build- 
ings of the Kings of Oudh, on the 
N. up to the nver-bank ; and the 
present Cantonment, headquarters 
of the Sth Army Division, with 
the Martiniere and Dilkusha Park 
on its N.E. sides on the S. 
The royal buildings from the 
Residency to the E. are the 
Tehri Kothi ; the Chhattar Manzii 
palaces, including the Farhat 
Baksh, now a portion of the U.S. 
Club : the Cliiiota Farhat Baksh, 
used as a Circuit House : Chhattar 
Manzii Khurd : Bilas Kothi, and 
the GuHstan-i-aram, used as Gov- 
ernment Offices : and the Lai 
Barahdari, near the public library : 
tlie Kaisarbagh, with its mausolea 
standing back a little to the S. ; 
the Moti jMahai, on the river, with 



ROUTE 21. LUCKNOW 


India 


3^6 

the Khurshid Manzil and Tara 
Kothi S. of it ; and the Shah 
Najaf, Kadam Rasul, and Sikan- , 
darbagh at the extreme E. end. j 
Here the nver takes a sharp bend 
to the S., and W. of this and S. of 
the Sikandarbagh come in succes- 
sion the Wingfield Park, and across 
the canal which skirts the S. of the 
city and the Civil Station, the 
Martinidre, and the Dilkusha 
palace. From the W. side of the 
park a broad thoroughfare (which 
IS known in its centraC portion as 
Hazratgan], and has the buildings 
known as the Begam Kothi, a 
portion of which— the Kothi Sul- 
tan Inaiyat — is now used as a 
Post-Office, and the jNlakbara of 
Amjad Ali Shah on its E. side) 
forms a chord to the arc of the 
river, and, passing the N. of the 
Kaisarbagh, ends at the Resi- 
dency. From the S.E. end of 
Hazratgan j, just N.E. of Govern- 
ment House (once known as Banks' 
House), Outram Road leads N.E. 
to the Sikandarbagh, and Abbott 
Road (on which all but one of the 
principal hotels are situated close 
together) leads S.W. to the railway 
station and the city. The hotels 
— except the Carlton Hotel, which is 
at the junction of the Shah Najaf 
and Clyde Roads — are about m. 

S.W. of the Sikandarbagh, and 
nearly 2 m. S.E. of the Residency 
by the direct routes of Cantonment 
Road, or Banks’ Road, which umte 
in Cawnpore Road after passing 
the back of the Kaisarbagh and the 
Roshan-ud-daula Kothi, about J 
m. from the Residency. The 
Alambagh lies m. S.W. of the 
Charbagh. From the latter the 
La Touche Road runs due N. past 
the Aminabad Park, of S acres, to 
the Residency, while a fine broad 
road has been constructed from 
the junction of Abbott and Station 
Roads, running almost due W. to 
the Victoria St., in four sections, 
known respectively as Hewett 
Road, Sri Ram Road, Ganga Per- 
shad Road, and Nadan Mahal 
Road. On the last is the tomb of 


Shaikh Abdur Rahim, the first 
Viceroy of Oudh under the Em- 
peror Akbar. 


History. 

Lucknow is of recent origin, and 
owes its creation to the Nawabs 
of Oudh, generally known as the 
Kings of Oudh, a title accorded by 
the British in 1819. The first 
three of these, S'aadat Khan 
Burhan-ul-muik (1732-39), Mansur 
Ali Khan, known as Safdar Jang 
(p. 274) (1739-53), and Shuja- 

ud-daula (1753-75), who joined 
issue with the &itish at the battle 
of Bnxar (1764), resided at Fyza- 
bad, and the last of these is buried 
there. His son, Asaf - ud - daula, 
removed the capital to Lucknow, 
which under him grew into a 
great city ; the badge of the fish 
which appears on so many of the 
royal buildings is the mark of rank 
granted by the Emperor of Delhi 
to the Oudh Nawabs. It will be 
sufficient to note here the names 
of the rest of the Rulers of Oudh 
and the buildings with which they 
adorned their capital. No reign- 
ing dynasty of India ever showed 
such a series of vicious and incom- 
petent Chiefs as the last of these. 
Any one who may have any 
doubts as to the condition of the 
Province of Oudh under them has 
only to read the journals of Sir 
Wm. Sleeman to realise what their 
rule meant — a rule continued 
unchanged, in spite of threats and 
warnings, for a period of thirty 
years. The buildings at Lucknow 
are nearly all of a degraded and 
barbarous type of architecture, 
and apart from the two tombs irf 
the Kaisarbagh and the Jami 
Mas j id, not one of them possesses 
any real architectural merits, 
though the large hall of the great 
Imambara is a very grand room, 

Asaf - ud - daula (i775 ' 97) » 
built the Daulat Khana Palace, 
tile great Imambara and^ its 
mosque, the Rumi Darwaza, Khur- 







ROUTE 21. HISTORY. MUTINY OF 1857 387 


sliid Manzil, Bibiapur Kothi, 
Chinhat Kotlii, Residency Kothi, 
the Charbagh and Aishbagh. (The 
Maclihi Bhawan Palace is shown 
by some authonties as built by the 
Shaikhs, and by others as built by 
Xdwab Shuja-ud-daula.) Asaf-ud- 
daula built a palace on the river- 
bank adjoining the great Imam- 
bara, but it was not known as the 
*Mdchhi Bhawan I^alace, it was 
called the IMoti IMahal, and the 
original building, according to the 
Am-i-Akban, is credited to Shaikh 
Abdar Rahim. It is doubtful 
whether Asaf-ud-daula built it 
I he picture in the Warren Hastings 
Collection proves that it was not on 
the Machhi Bhawan site. 

Saadat All Khan (1798-1814), 
the best of his line. Built the 
Moti Mahal and Dilkusha, the 
Throne Room (Lai Barahdari), 
and the King's Stables ; also the 
Residency, and other buildings, 
and bought the Farhat Bakhsh 
i 'alace from General Martin. 

Ghazi-ud-din Haidar, first king 
of Oudh (1814-27). Built the 
Kaisarbagh tombs, the Tomb at 
Shah Najaf, and constructed the j 
canal on the S. side of the city. 

Nasir-ud-din Haidar (1S27-37). 
Built the Chhattar Manzils. 

Muhammad All Shah (1837- 
1842). Built the Husainabad 
imambara and Tank, the Sat 
Kanda, the Jami Masjid, and the 
Badshahbagh. 

Amjad Ali Shah (1842-47), built 
the Hazratganj Imambara. 

Wajid AOi Shah (1847-56). 
diiilt the Kaisarbagh Palaces 
and Sikandarbagh. In February 
1856 Wajid Ali Shah w^as deposed, 
and on 13th March removed to 
Calcutta. General Outram, who 
'^vas Resident at the time, became i 


First Chief Commissioner of Oudh. 
The ex-lving Uved thirty years in 
Calcutta, and there he died in 
' 1 887, aged bixty-eight. Portraits 
of most of the Kings of Oudh will 
be found in the Barahdari in the 
Clock Tover gardens fronting the 
Husainabad Tank. 

' The best books upon the siege of 
' the Lucknow Residency are per- 
haps Hr M. Gubbins’ Muhmes 
in Oudh, Lady Inglis’ Siege of 
Liickyiow, Lieutenant - General 
MXeod Innes' Lucknow and Oudh 
in the Mutiny, and Sergeant 
. Forbes Mitchell’s Reynimscences 
I of the Great Mutiny. The 
‘ Lives of Sir Henry Lawrence, 

! Sir Henry Havelock, Sir James 
Outram, and Sir Cohn Campbell 
■ (Lord Clyde), will also be found 
full of interest, and most instruc- 
, tive of all are the volumes of 
1 Mutiny papers relating to Cawn- 
! pore and Lucknow recently edited 
by Sir G. W. Forrest, which con- 
tain a number of photographs of 
the date of 1857-8. 

An unusually good local guide 
has been pubhshed by Mr E. H. 
Hilton, who, as a Martini^re boy, 
shared in the defence of the 
Residency. 


The Mutiny of 1857 . 

That the annexation of Oudh — 
from which the great mass of the 
high-caste ^ soldiers of the native 
j army then came — justifiable and 
; necessary as it was, became one 
' of the pnncipal causes of the sepoy 
! mutiny of 1857, is beyond doubt. 

■ As it happened, General Outram 
I had been compelled to take leave 
j in May 1S56. Mr C. C. Jackson 
j acted for him until March 1857, 

; when he was succeeded by Sir 
I Henry Lawrence, a bare seven 
I weeks before the outbreak of the 
IMutiny at Meerut and Delhi. 

1 About 40,000 rtien. Nearly double thh 
number had been discharged from the Oudh 
army. 



ROUTE 21. 


LUCKNOW 


India 


388 

At that time the garrison of 
Lucknow consisted of three Bengal 
Indian Infantry regiments and one 
regiment of Light Cavalry, two 
regiments of Oudh Infantry, a 
regiment of Mihtary Police, and 
three Indian batteries of Artillery, 
in all about 7000 men, the Euro- 
pean force consisting of H.M. 
32nd Regiment under Lieutenant- 
Colonel Inglis and one battery of 
Horse Artillery less than tooo 
strong. 

Already there had been a 
mutiny at Lucknow of the 7th 
Oudh Irregular Infantry at the 
Musabagh on 3rd INIay. Major 
Gall, commanding the 4th Irregu- 
lar Cavalry, on being informed of 
the imminent danger of the Euro- 
pean of&cers, galloped up to the 
vicinity with his troopers, and 
soon after Sir H. Lawrence arrived 
with a mixed force of Europeans 
and Indians. The mutineers then 
broke and filed ; some were made 
prisoners, and others gave up 
their arms. On 12th May, before 
the news of Meerut and Delhi had 
reached Lucknow, Sir H. Lawrence 
held a darbar in the Cantonment 
Residency, and harangued the 
troops and promoted two Indian 
officers who had given information 
of the intended outbreak ; and 
this gave confidence for a short 
time until the malcontents per- 
ceived that the Government was 
unable to take immediate steps 
to recover Delhi. Then it soon 
became apparent that nothing 
could prevent further serious 
trouble, and Sir H. Lawrence 
quietly set about collecting sup- 
plies in the Residency and the 
Machhi Bhawan to provide against 
all possible contingencies, and two 
Companies of H.M.’s 32nd Regi- 
ment were placed in the former. 
On the 23rd May two detachments 
of cavalry sent to Cawnpore to 
clear the road between it and 
Agra mutinied near Mainpuri, 
and killed one of their officers, 
the rest escaping by flight. 

On the 30th May mutiny broke 


out in the Mariaon Cantonment, 
3 m. N.E. of Lucknow across 
the Gumti, and quickly became 
general. Brigadier Handscombe 
was shot dead, and the mutineers 
attacked Sir Henry and his staff 
at the artillery ground, but were 
driven off with some rounds of 
grape, which killed many of them. 
On the 31st of May a Mr Mendes 
was murdered in his own house in 
the city, and martial law was 
proclaimed ; it was now decided 
that the supplies should be mainly 
placed in the Residency. The 
authorities maintained a bold 
front ; but the news of mutiny 
came in from every side — Bareilly 
on 31st May, Sitapur on the 3rd 
of June, Cawnpore on the 4 th, and 
Fyzabad on the 6th — and on the 
nth of June the cavalry of the 
police mutinied, and the infantry 
followed their example. Large 
bodies of mutineers now began to 
gather round Lucknow. These 
finally concentrated at Chinhat, 
a village lying 7 m. from Lucknow, 
on the Sitapur road, across the 
Kokrail nulla, and were attacked 
at Ismailganj, il m. W. of this, 
by Sir Henry Lawrence on the 
30th June with a small force of 
ten guns, 100 cavalry, and 550 
infantry, of whom only 300 were 
British, Unfortunately the troops 
started later than had been 
intended, and, by some sad 
blundering, without having re- 
ceived any food, and in the end the 
overpowering heat prevented them 
from making a determined attack 
on the rebels, who were strongly 
posted and fought with great 
confidence ; and finally the little 
force had to retreat with a loss of 
over 100 British soldiers. The 
enemy at once followed up their 
success, and the siege of the 
Lucknow Residency, begun the 
next day, ist July, was partially 
relieved by General Havelock on 
25th September, and was finally 
relieved by Sir Colin Campbell on 
17th November. At the com- 
mencement there were about 900 



ROUTE 21. SIEGE OF RESIDENCY 


380 


British troops and officers in the 
position, 150 volunteers and 700 
indi.iii troops, 600 women cind 
ciiiklren and 700 non-combatant 
Indians — ^in all about 3000 souls. 
At the time of the relief in Sep- 
tember there were less than rooo. 
On the night of the ist July the 
^lachhi Bhawan garrison fell back 
to the Residency, blowing up the 
magazine and destroying the guns 
there as far as was possible. On 
2nd July Sir H. Lawrence was 
mortally wounded by a shell fired 
from the howitzer captured from 
us at Chinhat, and died tvu days 
afterwards. Major Banks suc- 
ceeded him in chief civil authority, 
and Colonel Inghs m command of 
the troops. i 

The defences of the Residency, 
which stood some 30 ft. above the ; 
level of the ground round it, will 
be understood best by visiting 
the locality, and the following ! 
bhef account. At the N.W. ; 
corner, running out above the | 
depression in which the church I 
and graveyard were situated, was 
I ones Garrison. In the centre of 
the N. face was the Redan, armed 
With two 18 -pounders and a 
9 -pounder, which commanded the 
whole river-side and the opposite 
bank ; on its W, side was Evans' 
Battery, with one iS-pounder and 
two 9-pounders. Just E. of the 
Redan was the Water Gate, 
bevond which a defence of fascines 
and sandbags ran to the Hospital, , 
formerly the Banqueting Hall , 1 
the Water Gate had a battery of ■ 
three guns, with Alexander's I 
Battery on its right, and the j 
Hospital one of three mortars. . 
1 he Residency lay in the centre of j 
the position S. of the Redan and j 
W. of the Banqueting Hall. With [ 
lofty rooms, fine verandas, and j 
-arge porticoes, its range of subter- I 
raneous apartments, its ground I 
joor and two upper storeys, it ; 
‘dforded accommodation to nearly \ 
rooo persons — men, women, and i 
‘^^hildren. The Baillie Guard, j 
'Situated on the lower ground i 


( below the Hospital, was partly 
‘ used as a store-room, partly as 
i the treasury and office, and partly 
; as barracks for the sepoys, who 
j garrisoned it under Lieutenant 
, Aitken. In the Southern angle 
of the guard was a concave-shaped 
, guard -house, removed after 1857. 

I On the S. side of the road, leading 
; up through the Bailhe Gate to the 
, centre of the Residency, was the 
house of Dr Fayrer, with a garrison 
! commanded by Captain Weston 
I and Dr Fayrer. The Post Office 
i was a very important position, 
commanding the jail and mosque 
to the right, and the Clock Tower 
and offices of the Tehri Kothi to 
the left outside the entrenchment, 
and was armed with three guns. 
It was also the headquarters of the 
Artillery and the Engineers. In 
front of it, on the part of the E. 
face projecting beyond the line 
of the Bailhe Guard, were the 
Financial Garrison, Sago's Post 
(so called from the owner of the 
house here being a schoolmistress 
of that name), and the Judicial, 
j or Germon's, Garrison. The first 
I was commanded by Captain San- 
I ders, of the 13th. It was a large 

i two - storeyed house, and well 

barricaded. Between the Post 

Office and the Residency was the 
Begam Kothi, nearly in the centre 
I of aU the defences, where a double 
I range of out - offices formed a 
' square within a square. At the 
S.E. comer of the defences were 
Anderson's Garrison and the 

Caivnpore Battery, mounting an 
1 8-pounder and two 9-pounders ; 
these were the two most dangerous 
posts of all, being specially exposed 
to the fire of Phillips’ Garden 
Battery. W. of these were 
Duprat's Post, held by a brave 
Frenchman, and behind it the 
Martiniere Post ; in front, outside, 
at a distance of only 30 yds., was 
Johannes' house. The Brigade 
Mess, the Sikh Squared ^vith a 

1 Four mines of the enemy m ere e.xploded 
between Duprat’s Post and the S W. corner 
of the Sikh Square. 



390 


ROUTE 21. 


LUCKNOW 


India 


24-pounder howitzer commanding 
the street, and the First and 
Second Squares filled up the rest 
of the S. side to the point where 
Grant's Post, Gubbins' Battery, 
with a 9-pounder, and Gubbins' 
Garrison defended the S.W. angle, 
which lay farther N. than the 
first mentioned. Between Gub- 
bins' Garrison and the Begam 
Kothi, and S. of the Residency 
lawn, was Ommanney's Garrison ; 
while W. of the Residency were 
the Slaughter House and Sheep 
House Posts, the latter immedi- 
ately S. of the church depression. 
All these posts are marked on the 
ground by memorial pillars, which 
enable the outline of the whole 
defences to be fully understood. 
As at present situated the Resi- 
dency appears a strong position 
to hold ; but it will be seen from 
the model of it as it stood in 1857, 
contained in a room of the Tai- 
khana (the original is in the 
Museum), that it was then com- 
manded by so large a number of 
buildings close to it that it seems 
a marvel that any one in it should 
have escaped death from the 
bullets of the enemy. 

On the 2nd of July, the day of 
Sir Henry’s being wounded, the 
rebels attacked the Baillie Guard 
Gate. At first the deaths aver- 
aged from fifteen to twenty daily, 
many being killed by an African, 
who fired from Johannes' house 
without ever missing. On the 
8th Captain Mansfield and three 
other officers and INlaycock, a 
civilian, sallied out, spiked a gun, 
and killed about forty of the 
rebels without losing a man, though 
three were wounded. On the 9th 
another sortie was made, when a 
private named O’ Keene spiked a 
gun. On the loth, the ammuni- 
tion of the rebels' cannon falling 
short, they began to fire pieces of 
wood, copper coin, iron, and even 
bullocks’ horns. Fortunately the 
old State guns had been collected 
by the care of Sir Henry Lawrence 
on the low ground under the 


Redan, and luckily for us there 
was no arsenal in Lucknow from 
which the mutineers could ob- 
tain unhraited quantities of gun 
ammunition. Had that been the 
case, the Residency would have 
been rendered untenable in a very 
short time. On the 14th the 
enemy made a general attack. 
On the 1 6th they made a night 
attack on Gubbins’ Battery, but 
were beaten back. On the 20th 
of July they exploded a mine near 
the Redan, attempted to storm the 
Baillie Guard, and made their 
first general assault at every point, 
pouring in volleys of musketry, 
and sending shell after shell into 
the entrenchments. The mine 
did no harm to the Redan Battery, 
but the enemy, supposing a breach 
to have been made, rushed up the 
glacis at the double with fixed 
bayonets.^ Hundreds were shot 
down ; but their leader, waving 
his sword, on which he placed his 
cap, shouted to them to come on. 
Again they advanced, but the 
grape made huge gaps in their 
ranks, a musket ball killed their 
leader, and they then retreated, 
leaving heaps of slain and 
wounded. At the same time a 
furious attack was made on Inncs’ 
outpost, where Lieutenant Lough- 
nan, of the 13th Indian Infantry, 
with 24 English soldiers, 12 civi- 
lians, and 25 sepoys, beat back 

1 “ What have they done? where is it? out 
yonder — guard the Redan ' 

Water Gate ! storm at the 
Baillie Gate ! storm, and it ran 
Surging and swaying all round us, as 
ocean on every side 

Plunges and heaves at a bank that is 
daily drowned by the tide— 

So many thousands that if they were bold 
^ enough who 5,ball escape ’ 

Kill or be killed, live or die, they shall 
know We are soldiers and men I 
Read j , take aim at their leaders — their 
masses are gapped with our grape — 
oackward they reel like the wave, like 
the wave flinging forward again. 

and foil’d at the last by the hand- 
ful they could not subdue — 

Ar^ ever upon the topmost roof the 
fianner of England blew.’’ 

— Lord Tennyson. 



ROUTE 21 . SIEGE. 

the whole host of rebels, who at 
last slowly retreated, carrying off 
loo of their wounded comrades. 
At the Financial and Sago's Posts 
a column of rebels with a green 
standard was, after some hours' 
hard fighting, beaten oh, wdth the 
loss of all their commanders and 
about 6o men. The fight ended 
at 4 p.M. 

Though beaten at all points, on 
the 2oth the enemy maintained a 
furious cannonade, and planted 
new batteries. On 21st July 
ilajor Banks was shot, and owing 
to their fire the windows of the 
houses within the Residency had 
to be barricaded, and even then 
inmates were shot inside them 
One great torment was the dies, 
which swarmed in incredible num- 
bers, the ground being black with 
them. On the 25th July a letter 
was received from the Quarter- 
master-General of General Have- 
lock's force bidding the besieged 
to be of good cheer, as a large 
relieving force was coming. But 
days passed and the rebels were 
busy with their mines, and but 
for the countermining by Captain 
Fulton, of the Engineers, the place I 
must have fallen. 

On the loth of August there was 
a second general attack, but the 
enemy showed little courage, and 
they were easily beaten off. On 
the same day a mine was exploded 
at Sago's Garrison, which blew 
down some outhouses, and blew 
up two English soldiers into the 
air, who, however, were not killed. 
Another mine betw’een the Brigade 
^less and the Cawnpore Battery 
blew down a stockade, and the 
enemy attempted to enter, but ■ 
were repulsed. The S-in. howitzer 
which the rebels took at Chinhat 
played on Innes' Post with great 
effect, bringing down beam after 
beam, and making many breaches. 
On the iith of August Major 
Anderson, the Chief Engineer, died. 
On the 14th Captain Fulton ' 
exploded a mine under a house | 
near Sago's Garrison, killing 50 to i 


ATTACK and DEFENCE 39I 

I 60 of the enemy. On the i8th the 
j second Sikh Square, garrisoned by 
I 15 Chnstian drummers and musi- 
j cians and 15 Sikhs, was blown up 
by the rebels, and 7 Christians 
and 2 Sikhs were buried under 
its ruins. A large breach was 
made, and the enemy delivered 
their third home assault, which 
was the nearest of all to being 
successful, but their leader was 
killed, and they retired. Captain 
Fulton, with a number of volun- 
teers, then sallied out, destroyed 
a number of houses,' and blow up 
the shaft of another mine begun 
by the rebels. 

On the 2oth August the house 
I called Johannes' was blown up by 
j Captain Fulton, and 60 to 80 of 
the rebels were killed. Captain 
Fulton then headed a sally, and 
after driving out the insurgents 
from several buildings, blew them 
up. Lieutenant Macabe, of the 
32nd, headed another party, and 
spiked two guns. Previous to 
this Lieutenant Macabe had 
attacked Johannes' house and 
bayoneted a number of the enemy, 
who were found asleep, and 
amongst them the African who 
had picked off so many of the 
English during the first days of 
the siege, and had been christened 
by the soldiers Bob the Nailer." 
On the 29th of August, Angad ^ 
the spy brought a letter from 
Cawnpore saying that the relief 
would take place in three weeks. 
On the 5th of September the rebels 
made their fourth and final 
attack, having previously ex- 
ploded three mines. They ad- 
vanced boldly to the Brigade 
Mess, but were driven back with 
the loss of 100 men. They then 
attacked the Baillie Guard and 
several other places, but were 
similarly repulsed. On the 14th 
Captain Fulton was killed at 
Gubbins’ Battery by a 9-pound 
shot, which took his head com- 

1 He was still living in 1876, and was pre- 
sented to King Edward VII., then Prince oi 
Wales. 



392 


ROUTE 21. 


LUCKNOW 


Ifidia 


pletely o^^. On the 23 rd of 
September a furious cannonade 
was heard outside the city, and 
confirmed the news received the 
day before that Generals Outram 
and Havelock were coming. On 
the 25th smoke and the crack 
of musketry showed that street 
fighting was going on. The fire 
advanced steadily towards the 
entrenchments, and the relievers 
finally entered them in the 
evening. 

General Havelock, who had 
reached Cawiipore on the 17th 
July, and whose troops had 
destroyed the palace at Bithur on 
the 19th, crossed the Ganges, and 
advanced towards Lucknow on 
the 25th, with only 1200 men, 
and fought two actions with the 
enemy at Unao and Basiratganj 
on the 29th. In these actions he 
lost one-sixth of his force, and was 
compelled to fall back on Mang- 
alwar. Advancing once more from 
there, he defeated the enemy 
again severely at Basiratganj on 
4th August, but thereafter had 
no option but to retreat to 
Cawnpore ; before doing so he 
beat the enemy a third time at 
Basiratganj . Three days after 
his return there he drove a new 
force of rebels out of Bithur on 
1 6th August ; but it was not till 
the 1 8th September that sufficient 
reinforcements arrived to enable 
him and General Outram (who 
had joined the force meanwhile, 
but chivalrously waived his com- 
mand in favour of General Have- 
lock) to cross the Ganges again 
with 3000 men. On the 21st he 
defeated the enemy again at 
Mangalwar, and on the 23rd at 
Alambagh, where the news of the 
capture of Delhi reached him. 
As the flooded state of the country 
across the Gumti made it impos- 
sible to move guns and so effect 
the relief of the Residency from 
the left bank, the forces moved 
forward for their final effort on 
25th September by way of the 
Charbagh, in front of which sharp 


fighting took place at the Yellow 
House. ^ Crossing the canal and 
leaving the 78th as a rear-guard 
on the bridge, the troops followed 
the line of the former to the old 
1 barracks of the 32nd, just to the 
I N. of the E. end of Hazratganj, 

1 and from there passed on fi) the 
j Sikandarbagh, and then followed 
} the road past the Shah Najaf to 
i the Moti Mahal, having encoun- 
1 tered but little opposition up to 
the last point. Here they came 
under heavy fire from the Khur- 
shid Manzil and from a battery 
at the corner of the Kaisarbagh, 

I and were checked for the moment. 
But the rear-guard, which had not 
followed the main column but 
had turned up the Hazratganj, 
now came up and took the battery 
j in the rear ; and the united 
column pushed on to the Chhattar 
1 Manzil Palace still under heavy 
j fire. At the corner of this palace 
I was a square enclosure, afterwards 
I known as the Dhooly Square, in 
! which a short pause took place, 

I while it was debated whether the 
j troops should push on or not, 

I and during this Brigadier-General 
, Neill was shot through the head 
while seated on his charger in a 
gateway. The decision having 
been for an advance, the troops 
issued from the square and turned 
to their right towards the Resi- 
dency. The Highlanders and 
Sikhs, who took the farther road 
to the Khas Bazar, suffered con- 
siderably ; the rest of the force 
took the nearer road into the 
Painbagh, and, passing E. of the 
Jail, took a battery of the enemy 
in the rear with but little loss ; 
and both columns, uniting once 
more by the Clock Tower, entered 
the Residency Gate and relieved 

1 It was here that Captain William 
Oipiierts, R.A , greatly distinguished himself 
and won the Victoria Cross, When a man of 
the dauntless courage of Sir James Outram 
records of the deed by which the reward 
for exceptional valour was won, ‘‘Bravery 
is a poor and insignificant epithet to apply 
to a valour such as yours," that deed ought 
not to be forgotten by Englishmen. 



ROUTE 21. THE TWO RELIEFS 


39 ^ 


the beleaguered garrison, though ' 
not without an unfortunate ! 
contretemps, which cost the lives ; 
of several brave Sikhs. The heavy j 
guns and the wounded remained I 
for the night at the Moti Mahal, i 
When the latter were being [ 
brought in next day the dhooly- i 
bearers were by a terrible mistake ^ 
led into the square abov^e men- i 
tioned instead of directly into 1 
the Chhattar Manzil, and were ; 
brought under a deadly fire of the ' 
enemy. Deserted by the bearers, j 
the wounded were heroically de- i 
fended by Surgeon Anthony Dick- ' 
son Home and a few privates, 
who held one position after 
another with desperate resolution, 
and were finally rescued from the i 
Residency after all hope of escape j 
was lost : for this deed of valour j 
the surgeon and three privates I 
received the Victoria Cross. j 

This relief was not, however, | 
clfected without most serious loss ; i 
for though 2000 soldiers had got j 
into the Residency, 550 officers j 
and men were killed and wounded, i 
Among these Brigadier - General 
Reill and Major Couper were 
killed, and ten other officers fell, 
besides those who died of their 
wounds. At this time the houses 
in the Residency were all per- 
forated with cannon-shot, and the 
Cawnpore Battery was a mass 
of ruins ; the outpost at Innes' 
House was roofless, and out of the , 
Brigade Mess alone 435 cannon- i 
balls were taken. The besieged 
^\'ere not, however, free. Those 
who relieved them had posses- 
sion of the Tehri Kothi and the i 
Farhat Bakhsh Palace, as also j 
the Chhattar Manzil Palace, from ! 
which and from the Clock Tower j 
the enemy’s fire had been most i 
fntal. But though the garrison 
had extended their positions, the \ 
were far from abandoning i 
city, and Generals Outram and ' 
Havelock, with their troops, were : 
themselves blockaded. On the ! 
26th of September a sortie was I 
iiiade, and the troops spiked two i 


mortars and blew up a powder 
magazine. Captain Lowe brought 
in as trophies an 18 - pounder, 
a 9 - pounder, and five smaller 
guns. After this the garrison fre- 
quently took the offensive, and cap- 
tured several positions. Attempts 
were then made to open com- 
munications with the Alambagh, 
where the relieving force had left 
their baggage and ammunition, 
with 4 guns and 300 men to 
defend these. The attempt failed, 
for an intervening mosque, filled 
with riflemen, was ^00 strongly 
fortified to be taken without very 
great loss. The besieged now 
repaired their defences, and ex- 
tended them near Innes’ Post by 
taking and fortifying a mound, 
which became one of their 
strongest positions. Desultory 
fighting went on incessantly, and 
the palaces which had been taken 
bv our troops continued to be the 
object of severe attacks. Pro- 
visions, also, again became scarce. 
On the loth of November Sir 
Colin CampbelH reached the Alam- 
bagh, and relieved the garrison 
besieged there. His force con- 
, sis ted of 4500 men, with which he 
i had to meet 30,000 to 40,000 
trained rebels, and as many more 
irregular volunteers. It was at 
this time that James Kavanagh, 
an uncovenanted officer who had 
distinguished himself in several 
sorties, offered to carry despatches 
from Sir James Outram at Luck- 
now to Sir Colin Campbell at the 
Alambagh, and owing to his 
courage and address succeeded in/ 
conveying them through the lines 
of the enemy, a feat for which he 
received the Victoria Cross. After 
a reconnaissance towards the Char- 
bagh to deceive the enemy. Sir 

I Sir Colin Campbell, then in his si.xty-fifth 
year, left England on nth July, and reached 
Calcutta on 13th August. There he was 
detained forwarding troops and making 
arrangements till 27th October. On ist 
November he reached /Mlahabad. and on 
qrd November arrived at Cawnpore, and on 
Qih November left that place to join the 
force alread'V well on the road to Lucknow. 



ROUTE 21. 


LUCKNOW 


India 


394 

Colin left his baggage in the Alam- 
bagh and proceeded to the 
Dilkusha, in which movement his 
advanced guard encountered a 
heavy fire, and drove the rebels 
past the Martiniere College. On 
the 1 2 th an attack of the rebels 
was repulsed ; on the 14th the 
rear-guard joined : and on the 
1 6th the whole force, except the 
8th Regiment, left to guard the 
Dilkusha, advanced against the 
Sikandarbagh. After a fierce 
conflict the 4 th Pan jab Rifles, 
the 93rd Iflghlanders, and the 
52nd,’ broke into the enclosure, 
and next day 2000 dead bodies of 
the rebels told the result. While 
this fight was raging the English 
suffered much from a murderous 
fire directed upon them from the 
Shah Najaf Tomb. This place 
was next attacked by PeeFs Naval 
Brigade and the 93rd, and finally 
was fortunately taken, the enemy 
abandoning it at the last moment. 
The troops then rested for the 
night, throughout which they 
were fired on continually from the 
adjacent buildings. On the 17th 
the Khurshid Manzil — which 
had been used by Her ^Majesty’s 
32nd as a mess-house — a large, 
two-storeyed, flat-roofed house, 
flanked by two square turrets, 
was stormed. In the afternoon 
Generals Outram and Havelock, 
who had occupied the Hiran 
Khana outside the Chhattar Man- 
zil, crossed by the Moti Mahal to 
the mess-house, and met Sir Colin 
Campbell there, and the relief of 
Lucknow was finally effected 
The British loss was 540 killed and 
wounded, of whom 10 officers 
were killed and 35 wounded. 
That evening Sir Colin decided 
that the garrison, as well as the 
sick and wounded, women and 
children, should be withdrawn 
from the Residency to the Dil- 
kusha, the enemy being deluded, 
meanwhile, by the capture of 
Banks' House and a heavy bom- 
bardment of the Kaisarbagh . 
This was carried out on the 22nd, 


the enemy continuing firing into 
the old positions long after 
they had been abandoned. On the 
24th of November General Have- 
lock died at the Dilkusha, and 
was buried next day in the Alam- 
bagh, to w'hich the whole force fell 
back. On the 27th the convoy of 
the sick and women and children 
started for Cawnpore, General 
Outram being left at the Alam- 
bagh with a force finally made up 
to 3500 men and 25 guns. 

Sir Colin returned in March 
1858, before which time six attacks 
had been made on the British 
position {which lay across the road 
to Cawnpore slightly in the rear 
of the Alambagh), and had been 
beaten off. The forces under him 
for the recapture of Lucknow con- 
sisted of 17 regiments of infantry, 
28 squadrons of cavalry, and 134 
guns— in all 2000 men — and the 
supporting Nepal army, under Sir 
Jang Bahadur and General Franks, 
of 6000 men, while the numbers of 
the enemy were 100,000, and the 
guns planted on their triple line 
of defence 100. On the 2nd of 
March the army moved from the 
Alambagh to the Dilkusha, and 
on the 6th a force under General 
Outram crossed the Guinti to 
operate against the enemy from 
the left bank. This completely 
turned the first line of defence 
along the canal of Ghazi-ud-din 
Haidar Khan, and it was aban- 
doned by the mutineers without 
a struggle ,on the loth. Captain 
Butler, who sw’^am across the 
Gumti to inform the force on the 

right bank of its abandonment, 

received the Victoria Cross for this 
feat of daring. No opposition was 
offered either at the Sikandar- 
bagh or Shah Najaf, w^hich were 
occupied next day. On the 
former date the advance on the 
enemy’s right was also commenced 
by the seizure of Banks' House, 
which was followed up on the 
nth by the capture of the Begam 
Kothi, by the 93rd and 4^^ 
Panjab Rifles, where 800 of the 




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LUCKNOW 

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ROUTE 21. THE RESIDENCY 


enemy were killed, and where 
Major Hodson was shot. On the 
14th the Hazratganj Imambara, 
up to which a way had been sapped 
through the houses, was seized, 
and the nght of the enemy's 
^^econd line of defence, which ran 
from here past the Tarawah Kothi 
and Khurshid Manzil to the river 
E. of the Moti ^lahal, was thus j 
turned. Nor was this all, for a 
party of the Highlanders and the , 
loth Regiment, boldly pushing 
on, established itself in a palace 
commanding the Kaisarbagh en- 
closure, round which the last ^ 
line of defence had been drawn, 
and being at once supported by ! 
Generals Franks and Napier, after ! 
desperate fighting inside and out- ; 
side, the enemy abandoned this, ' 
and fell back into the city. On 
the 1 6th General Outram, who 
had been kept back by the ; 
Commander-in-Chief, crossed the 
Gumti and occupied the Residency 
and the Machhi Bhawan, and on 
the next day the Husainabad 
Imambara. Arrangements were | 
then made to drive out and corner j 
the enemy completely, the inten- j 
tion being to intercept the rebels ; 
at the Musabagh. This failed of j 
execution through the immobility | 
of some of the commanding ohicers j 
concerned, and the rebels streamed | 
away to maintain the struggle in 
Oudh and Rohilkhand for another j 
year. ^ 

(a) The Residency and the quarters | 
E. and S.E. of it connected | 
with the Relief of Lucknow. | 

The Residency is the spot which | 
all Enghshmen will wish to visit I 
first in Lucknow. It is entered on 
the £. side by Neill’s Road which j 
runs under the Baillie Gate and 1 
passes upwards between the Ban- 
queting Hall on the right and Dr 
Fayrer’s house on the left. The 
gate was banked up with earth 
inside during the siege, and 1 
Generals Havelock and Outram j 
entered through an opening to 1 


the left of it, WTien the evacu 
ation of the Residency on 22nd 
November 1S57 was earned 
out the doors of the gate were 
closed by Colonel Inglis as 
soon as Sir James Outram had 
passed through them. The gar- 
dens are beautifully arranged and 
perfectly kept, and the place is 
now one full of the peacefulness 
which properly belongs to sad 
scenes long since enacted, in the 
midst of which one can think, 
thankfully and proudly, of the 
events and deeds of that summer 
of 1857. 

“ Ever the labour of fifty that had to be done 
by five, 

Ever the marvel among us that one should 
be left alive, 

Ever the day with its traitorous death from 
its loopholes around, 

Ever the night with its coffinless corpse 
to be laid in the ground, 

Heat like the mouth of a Hell, or a deluge 
of cataract skies, 

Stench of old offal decaying, and infinite 
torment of dies.” 

In front of the Baillie Guard 
IS a memorial erected by Lord 
Northbrook to the faithful native 
soldiers who shared the defence 
with the British. The foundation- 
stone of it was laid by King 
Edward VII., then Prince of 
Wales, on ytli January 1876. 

‘ Eraise to our Indian brothels, and let the 
dark face have bis due, 

Thanks to the kindly dark faces who 
fought wuth us faithful and true, 

Fought with the bravest among us, and 
drove them and smote them and slew, 

That ever upon the topmost roof our banner 
in India blew.' 

On the lawn in the centre of the 
Residency is a fine marble runic 
cross inscribed : — 

In memory of 

MAjOR-fhcN. Sir Henry Lawrence, 

And the biave men who fell 
In defence of the Residency, 

1S57 

and near it is another memorial 
of the 32nd Regiment. 

The 68 - pounder guns in the 
Residency belonged to the force 
which captured Lucknow in 1838, 



ROUTE 21. LUCKNOW 


Ifidia 


396 

and not to the second relieving ; 
force in 1857. 

The Residency Building is 1 
almost a complete ruin, though a 1 
very beautiful one ; but it is still 
possible to ascend the staircase of 1 
one of the towers, where through- ' 
out the siege the Banner of i 
England floated. 

“Banner of England! not for a i>eabon, 

O Banner of Britain ! hast thou | 

Floated in conquering battle or flapt to [ 
the battle-cry ; | 

Never with mightier glory than when we i 
raised thee on high, | 

Flying at top of the roofs in the ghastly j 
siege of Lucknow— I 

Shot through the staff or the halyard, but 
ever we raised thee anew, 

And ev'er upon the topmost roof our 
Banner of England blew ' ” 

A tablet in Dr Fayrer’s house 
indicates the room in which Sir 
Henry Lawrence died on 4th July. 

“ * Never surrender, I charge you, but e\ crj’ j 
man die at his post ' I 
Voice of the dead whom we loved, our ' 
Lawrence, the best of the brave : ! 

Cold were his brows when we kissed him ; 
— we laid him that night in his grave. ' 

The house was occupied on the 
first relief by Sir James Outram 
and his staff — as Mr Ommanney’s 
house was occupied by Sir Henry 
Havelock. The subterranean 
rooms, or “ taikhanas," here and 
at the Residency and the Begam 
Kothi, in which most of the 
women and children were pro- 
tected, will be found specially 
interesting. In a room of the 
Begam Kothi, so called for having | 
been the residence of a European I 
wife of a King of Oudh, and dis- j 
tinguished by its pretty mosque, 1 
is the model of the Residency in I 
1857, which should be viewed i 
before the round is made of it j 
as described on p. 389. In the | 
Brigade Mess buildings were the i 
rooms which Lady Ingiis and j 
Lady Couper occupied. Every ; 
spot in the Residency is inter- | 
esting, but the most interesting,. if , 
the saddest of all, is the cemetery j 
|ound the ruined church, in which i 


Sir Henry Lawrence, Brigadier- 
General Neill, and so many brave 
men and women and hapless 
children, to the number of nearly 
2000, sleep their last sleep. 
General Neill's grave is on the 
S. side of Sir Henry Lawrence’s, 
which is enclosed by an iron 
railing, and bears the well-known 
inscription : — 

Here Iks 

Henry Lawrence, 

Avho tried to do his duty. 

!\Ia\ the Lord have mercy on his soul ' 

Born 28th of June 1806. 

Died 4th of July 1S57. 

Readers of Mr Bosworth Smith’s 
Life of Lord Lawrence will be able 
to picture for themselves the scene 
of that Viceroy standing in deep 
thought over his brother’s grave 
after viewing the procession of the 
Talukdars of Oudh in front of the 
Residency. 

Leaving the Residency enclo- 
sure, most persons will probably 
wish next to visit the buildings and 
sites to the E. of it connected with 
the reliefs by Sir Henry Havelock 
and Sir Colin Campbell. 150 
yds. in front of the Baillie Gate, 
at the intersection of the roads, 
are still to be seen the foundations 
of the Clock Tower, from which 
the enemy kept up a constant fire 
on the E of the Residency. 
Farther on, to the right of the road, 
was the Jail, where the Court of 
the District Judge now is, while 
standing at a greater distance 
back on the left were the Tehri 
Kothi, now the residence of the 
Judicial Commissioner of Oudh, 
and the Farhat Bakhsh Dehght- 
giving ”) Palace. The last desig- 
nation originally included not only 
the above buildings, but also those 
of the Chhattar Manzil Palace 
beyond, which constituted the 
ladies apartments so long as the 
Farhat Bakhsh was the principal 
residence of the Oudh Kings — from 
S aadat ’Ali Khan down to Wajid 
Ali Shah. S.E. of the Jail was 
the Painhagh, E. of which pro- 



ROUTE 21. CHHATTAR MANZIL AND KAISARBAGH 


39 


jected the S. portion of the Chhat- 
tar Manzil enciosure, containing 
the small Chhattar Manzil, the 
Kasr-i-Sultan, or the LalBarahdari 
now the Public Library, and the 
Darshan Vilas. It must be remem- 
bered that in 1857-8 these build- 
ings did not stand separate and in 
the open, as they are now seen, 
but were all enclosed and divided 
off by high walls of great strength. 
Both the Chhattar Manzils are 
surmounted by an umbrella 
[chhattar or chhattri), whence their 
name. The larger, on the bank of 
the river, is used now as a club. 
After the relief of the 25th Sep- 
tember 1857, the British position 
was extended from the Residency 
eastwards as Jar as the Chhattar 
Manzil. Near this, opposite the 
Kaisarbagh, is the marble memo- 
rial statue of the Queen-Empress 
Victoria under a canopy. The 
Kasr-i-Sultan was the throne-room 
in which the widow of Nasir-ud-din 
Haidar attempted to compel the 
Resident, Colonel Low, to place 
her son, born before the King 
married her, on the “ masnad.” 
A little beyond these buildings is 
the Telegraph Office, and N. of it 
the Slier Darwaza gateway of the 
Dhooly Square, where General 
Neill was shot on 25th September 
1857. E again, and opposite the 
N.E. comer of the Kaisarbagh, 
was the Hirah Khana, or Deer 
House, between which and the 
river and the road to the modern 
Bruce Bridge were the engine- 
house, stables, and sergeant’s 
house, all of which played a part 
m the reliefs. Neill Road, which 
has been followed to the Sher 
Barwaza, now^ continues past the 
N. front of the Kaisarbagh and 
the Memorial near the N.E. corner 
of this, and joins the Hazratganj, 
while Clyde Road, taking off from 
the Strand Road, which runs 
between the river and the Farhat 
Bakhsh and Chhattar Manzil, 
passes under the road to the river, 
and continues along the line of 
the buildings famous in connection 


with the rehefs. The fine stone 
mausolea in the Kaisarbagh were 
constructed by S’aadat ’Ali Khan 
and his son ; and the palace was 
built by Wajid 'Ali Shah with the 
utmost extravagance and in the 
vilest of taste. It w^as from the 
fire from the defences of the palace 
and the roofs of the tombs that 
our troops suffered so much in 
finally reaching the Residency, 
both in September and in Novem- 
ber 1857 The palace originally 
had one great gate at the S E. 
corner and two others on the N. 
and S. sides, and its interior w^as 
divided into courts, and filled 
with confused masses of buildings, 
among which were the Chandmali 
Barahdari, paved with silver, and 
the Badshah Manzil. In the 
centre of the Kaisarbagh stands 
the Provincial Museum {formerly 
the Canning College), of which the 
archaeological section is the most 
important. The large hall con- 
tains sculptures, the majority 
from ^Mathura (Muttra), which are 
partly Buddhist and partly Jain. 
The adjoining room is reserved 
for Brahmamcal sculptures from 
different parts of the Province. 
A special room has been set apart 
for the antiquities excavated on 
the site of Saheth-Maheth, the 
ancient city of Srdvasti, and the 
famous convent of the Jetavana. 
The various objects from Kasia 
(believed to be the ancient Kusina- 
gara, where the Buddha entered 
Nirvana) are alse exhibited separ- 
ately. The epigraph! cal section 
contains numerous Sanskrit in- 
scriptions both on stone slabs and 
on copper plates. The important 
com collection is only shown to 
visitors on application to the 
Curator. The Museum contains 
also a zoological section, which 
includes a good collection of stuffed 
birds. An illustrated catalogue of 
the archaeological section is desir- 
able for reference. The buildings 
round the enclosure, among which 
w'ere the Chaulakhi and the Kaisar 
Pasand, have been made over to 



ROUTE 21. 


LUCKNOW 


India 


398 

the Talukdars of Oudh. Much of | 
the concealed jewellery of the ex- ! 
King was taken from the Kaisar- 
bagh to the Residency in May , 
1857, and was largely stolen there. 
The Memorial on the E. side marks i 
the spot where two small parties ; 
of European refugees from Sitapur | 
were shot on 24th September and 
1 6th November. 

Proceeding now by Clyde Road, , 
the first building seen on the left ; 
is the Moti Mahal, with Martin’s . 
House between it and the bridge. 1 
It lies on the left side on the bank | 
of the Gumti, and comprised, 
beside the structure once domed, ! 
and which gave its name to the 
whole, the Mubarak Manzil and 
the Shah Manzil, from which the 
King used to watch the fights 
between wild animals on the 
farther side of the river. It was 
here that General Havelock’s 
rear-guard remained on 25th 
September, and Sir Cohn Camp- 
bell’s force came into actual touch | 
with the besieged on 17th Novem- 
ber. To the right side of the road, 
standing on a high site, the base 
of which is still surrounded by 
defensive works, is the Khurshid : 
(“Sun”) Manzil, used m 1857 as , 
the Mess-house of the 32nd, and I 
since occupied by the Girls’ Martin- i 
idre School. S. of it again is the ^ 
Tarawali Kothi, or Observatory 
now the Bank of Bengal. On the ■ 
occasion of the relief of November 
1857 the former was strongly held 
by the enemy, and barred the way 
of the reUeving force for some time, 
but, after being subjected to a 
heavy bombardment by the Naval 
Brigade and Mortar Battery for 
three hours, was taken by the 
53rd and goth, and formed the 
place of meeting of Generals 
Outram and Havelock with Sir 
Colin Campbell. In March 1858 
the enemy’s second line of defence 
ran from the river at the Moti 
Mahal, past the Khurshid Manzil 
and Tarawali Kothi, to the 
Hazratganj Imambara. 500 yds. 


E. of the Moti Mahal and Khur- 
shid Manzil stand the Shah Najaf 
and Kadam Rasul, and nearly 
1000 yds. on again hes the Sik- 
andarbagh, round which such 
desperate fighting took place in 
November 1857. Shah Najaf is 
the tomb of Ghazi-ud-din Haidar 
Khan, surmounted by a dome, and 
surrounded by walls of such im- 
mense thickness that neither the 
heavy guns of the Naval Brigade 
nor those of Captain Middleton’s 
battery, brought quite close up, 
were able to make any impression 
on them, and the advance was 
severely checked here until some 
soldiers of the 93rd managed to 
scramble up a broken part of the 
wall at the back, and found that 
the enemy had just fled to avoid 
being caught Like their comrades 
in the Sikandarbagh. Some of 
the defenders made use of bows 
and arrows — for the last time, 
probably, in Indian warfare. Ser- 
geant Paton received the Victoria 
Cross for the part he took in this 
escalade. An English middy, 
Martin Abbott Daniel, was killed 
serving his gun outside Shah Najaf. 
The decorations and contents of 
the interior, though tawdry, are 
curious ; one picture represents a 
cock-fight, at which the King of 
Oudh and General Claude Martin 
are present. 


The Kadam Rasul is now a 
ruined building of red brick, the 
relic which it was built to cover 
I in 1830 having disappeared in 
I 1S57 ; it is approached by a path 
^ through the garden to the E. of 
; Shah Najaf, and has a fine view. 
The picturesque Horticultural 
Gardens now lie between these 
buildings and the Sikandarbagh, 
through which the road to the 
bridge across the river near this 
point leads. The gateway of the 
garden, which is 120 yds. square, 
still stands ; in front of it was a 
sarai, which was easily captured 
by the troops on i6th November 



399 


ROUTE 21. WINGFIELD PARK AND HAZRATGANj 


1S57, but a breach^ in the thick 
wall of the Sikandarbagh was 
'made only with great difiiculty, 
and was carried by the 93rd, 53rd, 
and the Sikhs of the 4th P.I. 
“ Never was a bolder feat of 
arms,” wrote Sir Cohn Campbell 
of it. The 93rd lost 90 killed 
and 99 wounded ; the dead 
were buried in a trench, still 
marked by a mound to the E. of 
the gate. None of these three 
posts were held by the enemy in 
September 1857, and all of them 
were abandoned with the first line 
of defence in March 1858. From 
this point the lines of the two 
rehefs and the capture diverge, Sir 
Cohn Campbell's two advances 
having been made from the Mar- 
tiniere and Dilkusha, to the S.E. 
of tlie Wingfield Park, while 
Generals Havelock and Outram 
pushed up to the Sikandarbagh 
from the S., along what is now 
known as Outram Road, which 
passes N. of the Wingfield Park 
and S. of the King’s Chaupar, or 
Cross Stables (now Lawrence 
Terrace), to close to Government 
House, formerly Banks’ House, 
and originally the Hayat Bakhsh 
(“life-giving”) Kotlii, where it 
joins Havelock Road, which marks 
up to the Charbagh the route 
along the canal followed by the 
troops in their advance from the 
latter place on 25 th September 
1857. The King’s Stables had 
been used as barracks for the 32nd 
Regiment before the Mutiny. 

At the N.W. corner, outside 
Government House, is Christ 
Church, It is a neat building 
with a tower. The church com- 
pound is prettily laid out with 
many flowers and creepers. There 

^ According to Sergeant Forbes Mitchell, 
the breach in the wall of the garden, which 
was wide enough to admit three men abreast, 
Was made at the spot where the road to the 
river now passes through it, and the 53 rd got 
into the enclosure through a window to the 
ught of the gate. Private Duiilay of the 
93 rd received the V'ictoria Cross as the first 
man who penetrated into the garden and 
survived the desperate conflict in it. j 


are a number of interesting tablets 
on the walls. Those m memory 
of Sir James Outram and Sir H. 
Lawrence deserve particular atten- 
tion. 

Wingfield Park is well laid out, 
and is adorned vnth many white 
marble pavihons and statues, 
and has a large pavilion in the 
centre, surrounded by 80 acres of 
grounds and flower-gardens. It is 
named after Sir C. Wingfield, 
Chief Commissioner of Oudh 
(1839-66) 

Hazratganj, which leads to the 
N. from Government House, was 
the route of the rear- guard in 
September 1857, when, after hold- 
ing the Charbagh Bridge for 
several hours, it marched to join 
the main column in advance of it. 

, A few hundred yds. up it on the 
left side the Post Office occupies 
tile building of the Sultan Inaiyat, 
a portion of the Begam Kothi pro- 
perty — once the residence of a 
Queen of Amjad Ali Shah — taken 
with much slaughter of the enemy 
on nth March 1858 ; and nearly 
^ m. farther is the Hazratganj 
Makbara, as it is usually called, the 
tomb of Amjad Ali Shah, which 
was captured on 14th March — a 
feat which led to the occupation 
of the whole of the enemy’s hnes 
of defence at Lucknow. The 
interior, which once contained the 
most sumptuous fittings, is now 
neglected and dirty ; but the 
garden court in front is rather 
pretty. Beyond the Imambara is 
the high-standing Nur Bakhsh^ 
Kothi, now the official residence of 
the Deputy-Commissioner of Luck- 
now ; and a little farther N. the 
S.E, comer of the Kaisarbagh 
and the Memorial in front of it 
are reached. 

(b) The Quarters S. of the Railway 

connected with the Reliefs. 

The scene of the operations of 
the relieving forces before Luck- 
^ “Light-giving.” 



400 


ROUTE 21. LUCKNOW 


India 


now may now be completed by 
reference to the Martini ere, the 
Dilkusha, and the Alambagh, the 
original base of each one of the 
rehefs. A pretty road, striking 
off to the left from the main road 
past the W. side of the Wingfield 
Park, leads through the Martiniere 
Park to the buildings in it. Mot 
very far from these will be seen 
two small grave enclosures, and 
in one of these will be found the 
grave of Major Hodson of Hodson's 
Horse, killed on 14th March 1S58. 


j Martiniere, but the Nawab died 
before the bargain was completed, 

I and General Martin himself, dying 
! at the Farhat Bakhsh before the 
I building was finished, directed it 
I should be completed out of the 
! funds left to endow a school in it. 

^ This school is now one of the best 
I in all India for the education of 
I children of European descent, 
whose parents are permanent 
I residents in the country, or who 
j hold subordinate positions in 
j the Government service. The 
j advance on the Martiniere m Hov- 


The Martiniere is an irregular 
building, in a sort of debased 
Italian style. The basement 
storey is raised to a good height 
above the ground, and has exten- 
sive wings, but the superstructure 
is bizarre, and has been styled ‘ ' a 
whimsical pile,” though there is 
something striking in its great 
central tower. It was built by 
Major - General Claude iNIartin 
(1735-1800), whose tomb, restored 
in 1865, is in the E. crypt of the 
chapel ; the plain sarcophagus 
was once guarded by a marble 
grenadier, with arms reversed, at 
each angle. To the E. of the 
college is a fine lake with a fluted 
masonry column in the centre. 

General Martin was the son of a 
cooper, or a silk manufacturer, at 
Lyons, and served as a soldier 
under Tally in the regiment of 
Lorraine. He and some of his 
comrades formed a company of 
Chasseurs under Law, and garri- 
soned Chandernagore till taken 
by Clive. He then entered the 
British army, and rose to the rank 
of captain. In 1776 he entered 
the service of the Nawabs of 
Oudh, but the British Government 
allowed him to retain his rank and 
to enjoy promotion. In 17S3 he 
formed the acquaintance of De 
Boigne, and took part with him 
in cultivating indigo and lending 
money to the Nawab, by which he 
acquired a large fortune. It is 
said that Asaf -ud-daula offered 
him /i, 000,000 sterling for the 


ember 1857 met with strong resist- 
ance by the rebels. It was held 
by them again in March 1858, and 
it was in the attack then made 
on it that Sir William Peel was 
wounded by a musket-ball. 

The Diikusha, or Heart-ex- 
panding,” was a villa built by 
S’aadat 'Ah Khan in the midst of 
an extensive deer-park. It stands 
about ^ m. to the S. of the Mar- 
tiniere across the railway, and is 
now a ruin, but a very picturesque 
one. It was captured on the 12th 
of November 1857 by Sir Cohn 
Campbell, and here twelve days 
later General Havelock expired, 
with the knowledge that the whole 
garrison of Lucknow had been 
safely rescued from the Residency. 
On the occasion of Sir Cohn 
Campbell's second advance it was 
occupied on the 2nd March. 

3 1 m. to the S.W. from the 
Dilkusha, at the other side of the 
present Cantonments, and about 
m. from the Charbagh and 
railway station, is the Alambagh, 
with the grave and memorial of 
General Havelock. It was first 
taken by that General on 23rd 
September 1857, was occupied by 
a detachment left behind with the 
baggage and wounded till the 
arrival of Sir Colin Campbell on 
12 th November, and was guarded 
by Sir James Outram and his force 
of 4500 from 27th November 1857 
till March 1858. It is a walled 
enclosure 500 yds, sq. and was 



ROUTE 21. IRON BRIDGE— RUMI DARWAZA 


401 


built by Wajid 'Aii as an occa- 
sional residence for a favourite 
wife. General Havelock’s tomb 
is surmounted by an obelisk 30 ft. 
high, with an inscription recording 
his death on the 24th of November 
1857. 

[c) Quarters N.W. of the Residency 
and across the Gumti. 

Five hundred yards to the N.W. 
of the Residency is the Iron Bridge, 
across which our troops passed to 
the fight of Chinhat, and again 
retreated from it, and over which 
General Outram passed on i6th 
March 1858. It was designed by 
Rennie, and sent out from England 
at the end of the i8th century, 
but was not erected till 1S40-4. 
From it there is a beautiful view 
of the Farhat-Baklish-Chhattar- 
-Manzil Palace. 

Across the bridge to the right is 
the Badshahbagh, from which 
the enemy kept up a severe fire 
on the Residency, and from which 
the shell which caused the death 
of Sir Henry Lawrence came. It 
was taken by Sir James Outram 
on 8th March 1858, It was given 
to the Raja of Kapurthala in 1S58, 
and was purchased from him for 
the new Canning College, built at 
a cost of 5^ lakhs, of which 
were given by the Maharaja of 
Balrampur. Farther on, at Has- 
sanganj, another road turns to the 
right and leads to the Kokrail 
Bridge and (3 m.) Ismailganj, 

m, in front of Chiniiat (64 m,), 
while the main road passes on to 
the old Cantonment (2 4 m.) of 
Mariaon, passing the Karbala 
where Nasir-ud-din (died 1837) 
IS buried ; nothing is now left 
^f the Cantonment except the 
ruined walls of a few houses. 
1200 yds. W. of the Resi- 
dency is the great Imamhara, 
which stood inside the Machhi ^ 
Bhawan enclosure. The fort was 
dismantled in 1865, and nothing 

1 See p. 237. 


now remains 01 it except the high 
site to the E. of the Imambara. 
It once extended 800 yds. along 
the road and 500 yds. to the S. 
of it, while the N.W. end reached 
almost to the river bank above 
the stone bridge which crossed the 
Gumti opposite the centre of it. 
At the back of it is the new 
Medical College and Hospital, the 
memorial of the Queen-Empress, 
of which the foundation-stone was 
laid by King George V., as Prince of 
Wales, on 26th December 1905. The 
cost of the whole building was to be 
33 lakhs, and to mclude a hospital 
with 230 beds, a hostel for 200 
students, a nurses’ home, cottage 
wards, etc. Near the bridge is the 
so-called Mosque of Aurangzeb, 
built on the Lakshman Tilla or 
Mound, which is believed to have 
been the centre of the original settle- 
ment of Lucknow, and to have given 
the present name of the city. Be- 
tween the enclosure and the N. 
side of the city, with the Chauk 
Bazar, is the modern Victoria Park : 
it contains a bronze statue of H 
Queen ^ ictoria. The Imambara 
court is entered by a fine gateway 
on the left of the road ; though 
the details will not bear inspection, 
the great courtyard, with a lofty 
mosque and two minarets on the 
W. side, and the immense struc- 
ture of the Imambara at the head 
of steps on the S. side, is decidedly 
fine. It was built in 1784, partly 
to afford relief in the terrible 
famine of that time which swept 
over all N. India, by Asaf-ud- 
daula, who is buried in it. The 
great hall is 163 ft. long, 53 ft. 
broad, and 49 ft. high, and is one 
of the largest vaulted gallenes in 
the world. ^ It has a number of 
tawdry fittings in it, wLich have 
taken the place of the splendid 
articles described by Bishop 
Heber. European gentlemen are 
requested to remove their hats in 
the hall. At the end of the road- 
way passing in front of the Imam- 
bara is the Rutni Darwaza, or 

1 Fergusson’i £ast. Arch., 2, 328-529. 

r 



ROUTE 21. 


LUCKNOW 


India 


402 

Turkish Gate, built, probably, on 
the analogy of the Sublime Porte, 
though not in the least resembling 
that; it is much disfigured by 
absurd decoration. 1000 yds. 
again beyond this gate is the 
Husainabad Imambara, and oppo- 
site it, on the N. side of the road, 
a beautiful garden, wuth the 
Husainabad Clock Tower and 
Tank and the Satkanda, or seven- 
storeyed to'wer. The first was 
built by Muhammad "Ah Shah, 
1837 A.D., as a burial-place for 
himself, and consists of two large 
enclosures, one of which is at right 
angles to the other. It is small 
in comparison with that in the 
Machhi Bhawan, and stands in a 
large quadrangle, which has a 
marble reservoir of water in the 
centre. The Imambara Hall is 
filled with mirrors and chande- 
liers, . and contains the throne of 
the King, covered with beaten 
silver, and his wife's divan, with 
solid silver supports. The seven- 
storeyed watch - tower, of which 
only four storeys were built, was 
commenced by Muhammad 'Ali 
Shah, but interrupted by his 
death. 

The tank is an extremely fine 
and picturesque work. On the N. 
side of it is a fine Barahdari, now 
the offices of the Husainabad 
Trust, with portraits of most of 
the Kings of Oudh ; and behind 
that was the Baulat Kliana. The 
Clock Tower, to the Mi of the 
tank, was built in 1881, and is 
220 ft. high. Farther again to 
the W. rises the Jami Masjid, 
begun by Muhammad 'Ali Shah, 
and perhaps the most satisfactory 
specimen of Oriental architecture 
in Lucknow. It has three domes 
and two minarets, and stands on 
a high platform, approached by 
flights of steps. Rather more than 
2 m. NAV. of the Husainabad and 
beyond the waterworks pumping 
station on the Gumti, is the Musa- 
bagh, which is deserving of a 
\asit. though the last ^ m. to it 
must be accomplished on foot, 


on account of the magnificent 
brick walls which surround it. It 
was here that the first mutiny at 
Lucknow took place on 3rd May 
1 85 7, and it was here that our 
troops failed to intercept tlie 
mutineers when finally driven out 
of Lucknow on iqth March 185S. 
The Nadan Mahal and tomb of 
Ibrahim Chishti, which lie in 
Yahiaganj, in the heart of the 
city on the Nadan Mahal Road, are 
well worth a visit. The former is 
the tomb of Sheikh Abdur Rahim 
Khan, already mentioned. The 
building dates from about the year 
1600 A.D., and is a good specimen 
of early Mughal architecture. The 
wLole building, from the plinth 
to the parapet, was originally of 
Agra red sandstone, some of 
which has, unfortunately, been 
stripped off. Its brackets axe 
richly carved, and above the 
chajja, or projecting slab cornice, 
are traces of blue and yellow 
tilework. The dome v/as also 
covered with tiles, which have 
almost entirely vanished. Within 
are two marble sarcophagi, both 
bearing the kalamdan, or “pen- 
box,” thus disproving local tradi- 
tion, which assigns the less 
^ab orate tomb to the Sheikh’s 
principal wife. In the centre is a 
headstone elaborately carved with 
inscriptions from the Koran. 

A few yards to the E. of the 
Nadan Mahal is a pleasing little 
red sandstone pavilion, containing 
five tombs, the two nearest the 
Nadan Mahal being of marble. 
Local tradition affirms that they 
are the tombs of the two other 
wives of the Sheikh, who are 
buried here, but one of them bears 
the kalamdan, again disproving 
the local tradition. 

The tomb of Ibrahim Chishti, 
the father of Sheikh Abdur Rahim 
Khan, lies still farther Eastward, 
now open to the Nadan Mahal 
Road. It IS composed of kankar 
blocks, and was originally plas- 
tered and painted. An inscrip- 
tion over the S. door gives the 



ROUTE 22. DELHI TO 

date of the death of Ibrahim j 
Chishti as 1543 a.d. I 

These monuments are in happy ! 
contrast to the debased buildings 
that represent the taste in archi- ^ 
tecture shown by the Oudh j 
sovereigns. The Kadan Mahal i 
is built in what might be called ; 
the best Hindu-^Iughal style, and ! 
would merit careful attention even | 
at Agra or Delhi. The squahd j 
purlieus that till recently sur- , 
rounded these buildings have | 
now been removed and a garden 
has been laid out around them, 
which forms a pleasant and shady , 
retreat in this quarter of the city. ■ 


ROUTE 22. 

DELHI to ALLAHABAD by ' 
Ghaziabad, Aligarh, Eathras 
Junction, Tundla Junction, Eta- 
wa, and Cawnpore, and Cawn- 
pore to Lucknow. 

From Delhi (12 m.) Gbaziabad 
junction station (see p. 293). 

78 m. ALIGARH junction sta- 
tion (R., D.B., between the Civil 
Station and the city) . A line trom 
here runs N.E.to (61 m.)Chandausi 
^nd to (loi m.) Bareilly, on the 
^udh and Rohilkhand main line. 
Aligarh is 825 m. from Calcutta, , 
'■^04 m. from Bombay ; by road , 
m. to Meerut, 45 m. to Etah, 

4h m. to Muttra [via Hathras), 1 
35 m. to Anupshahr. At the ' 
t'loneer Lockworks, Messrs J. H, 
Johnson & Co., and at the Krishna ' 


ALLAHABAD : ALIGARH 4O3 

Stores, petrol and motor accessories 
are available 

Aligarh, the high fort,"' is the 
name of the considerable fortress 
which adjoins and protects the 
town of Koil, situated in the 
well-cultivated plain between the 
Jumna and Ganges. This town 
(64,825 inhabitants) is of undoubt- 
edly great antiquity, and Budd- 
hist remains have been found 
in excavating the eminence on 
which the citadel of Koil stood, 
which was in earliest times the 
stronghold of a powerful Rajput 
Chief. Kutb*"- ud - din Aibak 
marched from Delhi to Koil, 
“ one of the most celebrated for- 
tresses of Hind,"’ in 1194. In 
1252 A.D. Ghias-ud-din Balban 
was governor of Koil. He set up 
a great minaret, which was in- 
scribed with the name which he 
had before he ascended the throne 
— “ Baha - ud - din Shamsi,” and 
dated 1254 1S62 this 

pillar, by an extraordinary act of 
vandalism, was pulled down, 

Ibn Batuta mentions Koil in his 
account of his embassy from Delhi 
to China, 1342 a d. He calls it a 
line town surrounded by mango 
groves. In the 15th century it 
became the scene of many a battle 
beHveen the armies of Jaunpur 
and Delhi. An inscription in the 
fort of Koil records its construction 
during the reign of Ibrahim Lodi, 
1524 A.D After the death of 
Aurangzeb (1707) Koil was con- 
sidered by the Mahrattas, Jats, 
Afghans, Rohillas, and other fac- 
tions to be of great strategical 
importance as commanding a 
number of main roads, so that the 
Aligarh district became the battle- 
field of rival armies. In 1759 a.d. 
the Afghans, under Ahmad Shah, 
expelled the Jats from Koil, and 
about 1776 A.D. Najaf Khan^ 
repaired the fort of Ramgarh 
and changed its name to Ahgarh. 
In 1784 Maharaja Scindia cap- 
tured Aligarh, in which he found 


1 See p. 230. 


ROUTE 22 . DELHI TO ALLAHABAD 


India 


404 


treasure in specie and jewels 
amounting to a crore of rupees. 
In 178S it was taken by Ghulam 
Kadir Klian,^ and retaken by 
Scindia, and here, with the aid of 
De Boigne, that prince organised 
his battalions after the European 
fashion, the fort being made 
almost impregnable. In 1796 Be 
Boigne was succeeded by Perron, 
who, when the British declared 
war against Scindia in 1803, took 
refuge with the British. Aligarh 
was then taken (29th August 1803} 
by a brilliant de mam by 

Lord Lake, when^28i guns were 
captured in it. 

When the news of the mutiny 
at Meerut arrived, on the 12th 
of May, Aligarh was garrisoned by 
300 sepoys of the gth Indian 
Infantry, who mutinied on the 
19th. Among those who were 
compelled to seek refuge in Agra 
was Lady On tram, who was living 
with her son, the late Sir Francis 
Outram, a recently-joined member 
of the Civil Service. On the 26th 
Lieutenant Cockburn reached 
Aligarh with a detachment of 
troopers, who held their ground 
there up to the 21st of June ; but 
were soon after obliged to retire 
to Agra. On the 5th of October 
Colonel Greathed's column from 
Delhi occupied Koil. 

The Civil Station of Aligarh hes 
N.E. of the city, from which it is 
separated by the railway. It in- 
cludes the old Cantonment, which 
was abolished in 1869. It is well 
planted with trees, and has a large 
maidan, the old parade ground, in 
the centre. 

The principal thoroughfares are 
the Anupshahr Road, which runs 
from the overhead railway bridge 
past the W. side of the mokdm and 
the road from the railway station 
which ultimately joins the Anup- 
shahr Road beyond the College. 

On the left of the Anupshahr 
Road lie the District School, the 

1 See pp. 262 and 281. 


J udges’ Courts, a fine new building, 

: a cemetery, Jail, and the District 
i Office and Courts. Opposite the 
' Judges' Courts is the Cattle Garden, 

! containing the Crosthwaite Hall, 

! which IS used for Municipal and 
I District Board meetings, and the 
I Harrison Clock Tower, named after 
I a former Collector of Aligarh. 
From the Postal Workshop all the 
requirements of the post offices in 
India, such as bags, forms, dies, 
etc., are supplied. Probably from 

■ the impetus given by these works 

■ a considerable number of metal 
I works have sprung up, especially 
I lock works. The^Lyall LibYaYywa.?> 
I founded by the Hindus of Aligarh, 

I and is built in the modern Sara- 

I cenic style. The old cemetery of 
j 1802 lies towards the fort. 

I The object of chief interest is 
the Muhammadan Anglo - Oriental 
i College, loundcd by the late Sir 
I Saiyad Ahmad Khan, K.C.S.I., 

: LL.D., for the education of Mu- 
i hammadans of the upper class. 
The building is on the plan of an 
Oxford or Cambridge College, and 
IS surrounded by grounds covering 
about 100 acres. It was opened in 
1S73, and has since made rapid 
progress ; the Hyderabad State 
contributes Rs.24.ooo yearly to 
the funds. It consists of two 
departments — a College and a 
, School : and its inmates, some 
I 500 boys and 700 voung men, 
come from all parts of India. The 
Principal and four Professors are 
English University men, and the 
Headmaster of the school is also 
an Englishman, and there are 
^even Indian Professors and four 
Assistant Professors. It receives 
an annual grant from Government. 
It is governed by a body of Mu- 
hammadan trustees, and, as it is in 
no way connected with the State, 
careful instruction in the Muham- 
madan religion is given in it. 
Considerable prominence is given 
to the encouragement of manly 
sports, and the institution marks 
a new and interesting departure 
in Indian education. The visit of 



ROUTE 22. ALIGARH ETAWAH 


405 


King George V., then Prince of 
Wales, to the College on 8th March 
1906 gave unbounded satisfaction 
to the -Muhainmadan community 
of India. 

The Fori of Aligarh, 2 m. X. of 
the town, was built in 1524, and 
reconstructed by French engineers 
under De Boigne and Perron in the 
iSth century, and was further im- 
proved after its occupation by the 
British It is surrounded by a 
ditch 18 ft. deep and from 80 ft, to 
100 ft. wide. The main entrance 
13 on the N. There is no garrison 
now. General Perron's House is ^ 
m. to the S. of the fort, between it 
and the College, of which it now 
forms a part. It has a square 
gateway in front, with an arched 
entrance and a guard-room above 
it. In the garden is a well with a 
Persian inscription. 

In the City of KoU, at the top 
of a long and rather steep slope, 
13 the principal mosque, wnth three 
central domes, two side domes, 
and four mmarets. It was built 
by Sabit Khan in 172S during the 
reign of Muhammad Shah. The 
architecture is in the debased 
style of the i8th century; yet the 
mosque is by no means without 
beauty and even dignity. The 
eminence on which it stands is 
called the Bala Kiia, and in it 
have been discovered remains of 
Buddhist and Hindu templer^, 
some of which have been placed 
in the compound of the Institute. 

S.E. of the great mosque is the 
^loti Masjid, or “ Pearl Mosque." 
In the city is a fine tank sur- 
rounded by small Hindu temples 
2.ud shrouded by magnificent 
trees swarming with monkeys. 

The Aligarh annual Fair (held 
early in February) usually ohers 
special opportunity for witnessing 
the inner life of an Indian district. 

97 m. Hathras junction station. 
The East Indian Raibvay is here 
J-rossed by the Cawnpore-Achnera 
hue of the Bombay-Baroda, and 


! Central India Railway (Route 12). 
t The branch to Cawmpore (1S9 m.) 
j passes Fatehgarh ^103 m.), Far- 
! rukhabad (10 1 m.j, and Kanauj 
(138 m.). The Europeans at 
Fatehgarh in 1857 defended them- 
j selves for some time after the 
1 outbreak of the Mutiny on i8th 
' June, but w^ere finally compelled 
to leave the gun-carriage factory 
; wEich they held, and attempted 
j to escape to Cawnpore in boats. 

' Most of them were killed on the 
[ w^ay, and the few w-ho reached 
I Bithur (p. 407), and were captured 
J there, were mu?'dered on the loth 
j and 15th July with the survivors 
I of Cawnpore. Kanauj, the fam- 
' ous northern capital, first of the 
1 Tomar and then of the Rathor 
i Rajputs, w^as taken by Mahmud 
! of Ghazni in 1018, and by Shahab- 
I ud - din Ghori and Kutb - ud - din 
I Aibak in 1194, whereupon the 
1 Rathors removed to Raj pu tana 
i and finally settled at Jodhpur. 
The ruins of this great city w^hich 
now remain are very scanty. It 
was at Kanauj, too, that the 
Emperor Humayun w^as finally 
j and totally defeated by Sher Shah 
1 mi 540 A.D. 

] The thriving town of Hathras 
1 (population 37,854) is 6 m. from 
i the station. 

j 127 m. Tundla junction (R.). A 
j line from here runs W. into Agra, 

\ distant 15 m (see p. 229). Visi- 
I tors to Agra book to the Fort 
i Station. S^ome of the E.I.K. 

I trains run to this, and some 
j diverging at the Jumna Bridge 
I junction to Agra City, reached by 
I the modem Strachey Bridge of 
nine spans of 154 ft. clear. As 
the bridge over the Jumna is ap- 
proached a splendid view of the 
Taj and the fort on the opposite 
bank is obtained. 

150 m. Shekohabad junction for 
j line to (66 m ) Farrnkhabad. 

184 m. from Delhi is Etawah 
station (R., D.B.), 720 m. 



ROUTE 2 2 DELHI TO ALLAHABAD 


India 


406 

from Calcutta : by road it is 71 m. 
from A*gra. 61 m. to Fatehgarh, 
33 m to Mainpuri, 66 m. to , 
Gwalior {with State R.Hs. at 
intervals). No hotel or pTr-d 
store at Etawaii It propcriy 
Itau'a, popularly derived Irom Ini, 
“a brick” (45,350 inhabitants), 
headquarters of the District of the 
same name, and is said to havi 
been founded b\ a Chauhan Chiei 
descended from the famous Pritln 1 
Raja, King of Delhi (p. 275). Tin 
town and District were capture 
by Kiitb'ud-din Aibak in 1193 
but the Chauhans regained then- 
power and held it till the reduction 
of Etawah in 1392 by Muhammad 
bin Firoz, who destroyed the old , 
Hindu fort. Successive punitive 
expeditions followed till 1432, and 
then tor a time Etawah passed into 
the hands of the Sharki Sultans 
of Jaunpur, who built the exten- 
sive brick tort overlooking the 
Jumna. The rule ol Delhi wa^, 
restored in 1487 by Bahlol Lodi. 
Etawah rose to some importance 
under the IMughal Emperors, and 
then was held in succession b}- the 
Nawab of Farrukhabad, the Na- 
wab Wazir of Oudh, the Rohillas 
and the Mahrattas. In 1774 it 
again came under the Oudh 
Government, but the headquarter^, 
were removed from Etawah to 
Kudar-kot, 23 m. E., and the fort 
was dismantled. The district was 
ceded to the East India Company 
in 1801. In the Mutiny the civil 
officers were forced to retreat to 
Agra ; but the District was soon 
regained by Mr A. O. Hume, C.S., 
the Collector, who raised a local 
force and fought several important 
actions against the rebels 

The City stands picturesquely 
amongbt a network of ravines on 
the N. bank of the Jumna, at a 
point where it bends sharjily 
backwards on its own course. It 
is divided into two parts, a ravine 
from N.W. to S.E. beparatmg the 
old city on the S. from the new. 
In the centre of the city is Hume 
Ganj Sc|uare, called after Air Hume, 


and adjoining it is a sarai with a 
fine gateway. % m. to the N. lies 
the Civil Station. 

There are very few ancient 
buildings. The Jarni Masjid, on 
high ground going toivard the 
Jumna, was built, possibly from 
old Hindu materials, by one of the 
Jaunpur kings The screen, 47 
It. high, before the dome is similar 
lu that oi tile Atala Alasjid ot 
Jaunpur (p 377). The fayade is 
130 ft long, but only 20 ft. deep. 

Th^Bathing Ghats on the Jumna, 
below the ruinetl tort, are pic- 
turesque and worth a visit. From 
them is seen the wlnte spire of a 
modern Jam temple. 

270 m. from Delhi is CAWN- 
POKE junction station, 633 ni. 
from Calcutta, 839 m from Bom- 
bay ; by road Cawnpore is 17 m. 
to Bithur, 49 m. to Lucknow, 70 m. 
to Ural, 136 m to Jhansi, 40 m. to 
Hamirpur, 134 m. to Etah, 48 m. 
to Fatehpur, 119 m. to Allahabad, 
190 m. to Jhansi via Hamirpur. 

The junction of five railways— 
Eu'^t Indian Bombay Jlaroda 
and Central India : G.I.P. ; Ben- 
gal^ and N.W. : Oudh and Kohil- 
khand. A new railway has re- 
cently been made from Cawnpore 
to Hamirpur and Banda. Com- 
fortable and convenient waiting- 
rooni'^. 

The City {population 195, 49^) 
situated on the right bank of the 
Ganges in lat 26° 28', long. 80° 
24' , old Cawnpore is 2 m. to the 
N.W. of the present city. The 
name means City of Kanh, or 
Krishna. It is a great emporium 
for harness, shoes, and other 
leather-work, and the principal 
centre of the mill industry in 
India, and is likely to receive 
many important improvements by 
an early date. Its importance 
dates from its cession to the East 
India Company by the Nawab 
Wazir of Oudh. It is of no great 
antiquity, and owes its present 
size and importance entirely to 
the British. Within the last ioity 






ROUTE _22 

years it has become the indus- 
trial and commercial centre of X. 
India — the result of European 
enterprise. New industrial un- 
dertakings are constantly being 
established. There are also a 
Government Experimental Farm 
and Agricultural College, worth 
seeing. The native city, which 
has some fine bazars and markets, 
always presenting a scene of 
bustle, lies to the left (N W.) of 
the Cantonment ; while the Civil 
Station and most of the mills and 
factories lie N.W. again of the 
city and near the river. 

On the Sirsaya Ghat there is a 
statue of the Queen - Empress 
Victoria, the work of a local artist 
A fine building in the Queen's 
Park, intended to be a public 
library and place of entertainment 
has been erected as a memorial of 
Iving Edward VII . At present it is 
being used as a hospital for 
wounded soldiers. The tail of the 
Ganges Canal separates the S.E. 
side of the city from the Sadr 
Bazar of the Cantonment, and the 
railway to Lucknow runs to the 
Ganges bridge outside the latter. 

The chief interest of the place 
for Englishmen lies in the sad 
events of the Mu tin yin June 1S57,' 
which ended in the cowardly 
massacre of a large number of 
women and children. The Can- 
tonment at the time straggled 
for 6 m. or 7 m.. and though con- 
taining an unusually large non- 
combatant population, was im- 
prudently garrisoned with about 
3000 Indian soldiers and only 
60 Europeans. Dhundu Pant, 
known as the Nana Sahib,- the 
adopted son of Baji Rao If. 
Peshwa, whose claims to succeed 
to the large pension enjoyed by 
the ex-Peshwa had been rejected 
by the British Government, was 

^ For a graphic account of the siege uf 
Cawnpore, the traveller cannot do l>etter than 
study r. H. K. Holmes’’, History c/ i 'le 
Indian Mutiny • Allen & Cu. 

^ - T.lie third i*esbwa Ralwant Rao had 
!jeeu previously known as the Nana Sahib. 


AWN PURE 407 

; living near, at Bithur, on friendly 
terms with the English at Cawn- 
j pore. His palace at Bithur was 
I destroyed by the British. 

- Sir Hugh Wheeler, a gallant 
I veteran commanding the Division, 
j doubted the fidelity of the sepoys, 
I and resolved to store with pro- 
I visions one spot which should be 
; a rallying point for those under his 
I charge. The natural position to 
; select was the Magazine in the 
; N.W. comer of the civil lines 
which rested on the river, and was 
j surrounded by strong walls. But 
1 General Wheeler decided against 
' this, as he would have had to 
! withdraw the sepoy guard, and 
j feared that by showing his mis- 
I trust he would hasten the rising. 

The spot he chose was the centre 
I of a plain lying S. of the city, 

, where there were two barracks, 
j Here he raised some earthworks 
j about 4 ft. high, and barely 2 ft. 

I thick at the crest, the soil being 
. so hard that it was almost impos- 
j sible to dig it, and so friable that 
j when dug it did not cohere ; but 
! it was supposed at the time that 
j the mutineers would at once pro- 
ceed to Delhi, and that onlv tem- 
I porary protection was needed from 
I the city mob. He applied to Sir 
' H Lawrence for reinforcements, 

' which were generously sent under 
1 Lieutenant Ashe and Captain 
i Fletcher Hayes. Much against 
j the advice of others, the General 
' and the Collector asked the Nana 
to send a body of his retainers for 
the defence of the Magazine and of 
the Treasury beyond it in Nawab- 
I ganj. The same day (22nd May) 

; all the non - combatants betook 
i themselves to the entrenchment. 

On the 3rd June General Wheeler 
j most unselfishly despatched rein- 
I forcements to Lucknow, though 
I knowing that, in case of attach, 
i his own position was not defen- 
sible. 

On the night of the 4th of June 
I the 2nd Cavahy ro^e and galloped 
. otf to Nawabganj, where the 
treasure was. The ist Regiment 



ROUTE 22.* DELHI TO ALLAHABAD 


India 


408 

Indian Infantry followed them, 
and sacked the Treasury, threw 
open the Jail, burned the Pubhc 
Offices and the Records, and cap- 
tured the Magazine with all its 
ammunition and artillery, with 
which they prepared to march 
to Delhi. The 53rd and 56th 
eventually joined also, after be- 
ing opened on by the guns in the 
entrenchment ; but 80 men of 


about 200 British soldiers and 
30 officers, hampered by every 
disadvantage, and exposed to the 
continuous fire of 3000 trained 
! foemen, well fed, lodged, and 
I armed. The total number in the 
i entrenchment is estimated at 900, 
j of whom more than half were 
I women and children. There were 
I many heroes in this httle band of 
I whom any nation would be proud, 



them remained faithful to the end. and to Captain Moore, of the 32nd, 
The whole body of mutineers then has by common consent been 
started on the march to Delhi, assigned the first place among 
but were persuaded by an emis- them. 

sary of the Nana to return. On The position which the doomed 
6th June General Wheeler was | garrison had to defend will be 
warned by the Nana to expect an j understood from the accompany- 
attack ; and by noon the siege j ing plan, adapted from Captain 
oi cawnpore had begun , Mowbray Thomson’s Story of 

Never had a besieged garrison j Cawnpore. All round it 'were 
been called upon to do greater | buildings and cover from which 
things than this little body of ^ the enemy could maintain n 


ROUTE 22. SIEGE OF CAWNPORE 


murderous fire with practical ; 
impunity — a mess-house on the 
E., a Church and reading-room 
near the N.E. comer, a racquet- 
court and other buildings opposite 
the N.W. corner, a deep drain 
giving shelter to musketry men 
all along the W., and a row of j 
incomplete barracks on the S., j 
the nearest of which were only [ 
250 yds. from the entrenchment, j 
To prevent the enemy from 
absolutely enfilading our position [ 
it was necessary to occupy two 
of these, and Nos. 2 and 3 were 
accordingly held, the former by 
Captain Glanville first, and then 
by Captain Mowbray Thomson, 
of the 53rd Native Infantry, and 
the latter by Captain Jenkins. 
By these barracks was a well 
which served as the general grave 
of all w’'ho were killed or died 
within the entrenchment. The 
fines of this were defended by the 
Redan under Major Vibart, of 
the 2nd Bengal Cavalry, on the 
N., by Ashe's Battery and by 
Eckford's on the E., by Totbury's 
Gun and Dempster's Battery in a 
projection on the W. side, and by 
brave hearts all round ; but except 
for repelling assaults and keeping 
the enemy at a greater distance 
the guns were of but little avail. 
The two barracks, one of them 
with a thatched roof, were entirely 
unprotected, and the only well in 
the entrenchment, 60 ft. deep, was 
exposed to the full fire of the 
enerny. And yet the dauntless 
British few held out for twenty 
days, and then only yielded 
because provisions were nearly 
exhausted. The proximity of the 
enemy's guns to the entrenchment 
would be incredible were it not 
that the distances were carefully 
recorded immediately after the 
recapture of the place in July. 

By the iith June the enemy had 
three mortars, two 24 -pounders, 
three 1 8-pounders, one or two 
12- and 9 -pounders, and one 6- 
pounder playing on the entrench- 
ment : and on the 1 2th J une the 


409 

thatched barrack was set on fire, 
and thereafter over 200 of those 
within the entrenchment hved day 
and night in the open in a tem- 
perature of 120 to 140 degrees of 
heat. On the 15th June Captain 
Moore led a successful sally, which 
resulted m the spiking of five 
guns and the blowing up of a 24- 
pounder ; but the supphes from 
the captured magazine were prac- 
tically inexhaustible, and such 
bravery could produce no per- 
manent results. No wonder that 
one-third of the numbers of the 
defenders were lost by the 21st 
June, that over 250 persons were 
buried in the outside well before 
the siege ended, that of fifty-nine 
artillery men only four survived 
at the end, and that when the 
British troops re-entered Cawn- 
pore they found that there w^as not 
a single square yard in the build- 
ings in the entrenchment that was 
free of the scars of shot. On the 
1 6th June the enemy received 
reinforcements from Lucknow, 
and on the 23rd, the anniversary 
of Plassey, they attempted a home 
assault, which cost them over 200 
of their numbers. On the 25th 
the Nana offered terms to the 
survivors, and these were accepted 
for the reason already given, 
though General Wheeler's voice 
was against surrender. 

On the 26th there was an armis- 
tice, and it was arranged that the 
British should evacuate their forti- 
fied position, and, leaving their 
guns and treasure, should march 
out with their arms and 60 rounds 
of ammunition for each man, the 
Nana promising safe-conduct to 
the river - side and a .supply of 
boats to take them down " the 
Ganges. The next morning, 27th 
June, the survivors, about 450 in 
number, marched down to the 
Sati Chaura Ghat, and went on 
board the boats. It was 9 a.m. 
before they were all embarked. 
Major Vibart entering last of all 
Then, on the order of Tantia Topi, 
a bugle sounded, the native boat- 



410 


ROUTE 22. DELHI TO ALLAHABAD 


I ndia 


men left the boats fixed in the Savada Kothi,^ where the Nana 
mud, and a murderous fire of hved during the siege. They 
grape-shot and musketry opened were afterwards removed to a 
on all sides. The thatch of the small house called the Bibi-garh, 
boats took fire, and while the sick j near which the Nana was residing 
and wounded were suffocated in I in a hotel. This house contained 
them, the sepoys jumped into | two rooms, 20 ft. by 10 ft., and a 
the water and butchered others. ’ number of dark closets, and had a 
Orders then came from the Nana ! courtyard 15 yds. square in front 
to kill no more women, and about j of it ; and in it between the 7th 
125 women and children, w'ounded ’ and 14th of July twenty-eight of 
and half drowned, w^ere carried j the captives died, 
back to Cawnpore. ^ But retribution was not far off. 

One boat, w^hich, as it happened, | (jn the yth of July General 
had been pushed off by the very | Havelock marched from Allaha- 
bravest of the defenders, drifted j bad with 1400 British and 600 
down the river, and those on board : Sikhs. On the 12th of July, at 
propelled it as they could, wdth ! 7 a.m., they halted at Balinda, 
numbers rapidly diminished by j 4m. from Fatehpur. Here they 
the fire from the banks — Moore, were attacked by the Nana's army, 
Glanville, Ashe, and Fagan all and inflicted a crushing defeat on 
being shot on it. For thirty-six it. On the 15th of Julv Havelock 

hours it floated down stream, again defeated the rebels at Aong, 

pursued and attacked by the and drove them over the bridge 
enemy on all sides. On the second across the Pandu Nadi, and the 
morning the occupants woke to Nana, on learning that the British 
find themselves in a side stream were advancing upon him, ordered 

vrith sepoys on the banks ready the massacre of the captives in the 

to overwhelm them. Two officers Bibi-garh. The few men among 
and eleven soldiers gallantly leapt them were brought out and killed 
ashore and dispersed the in his presence. A party of 
astounded crowd. But mean- sepoys were then ordered to shoot 
while the boat had drifted out of the women and children, but they 

sight and was lost to them, and intentionally fired at the ceiling of 

they were compelled to take refuge the rooms, though they belonged 

in a small temple, in which they to the regiment which had mur- 
were surrounded. Breaking out, dered the seven Ensigns at Allaha- 

and once more scattering the bad. Then a party of butchers 

armed mob, they took to the river, were sent in to accomplish the foul 

and four of them — Captains IMow- deed, and all was quickly over. In 

bray Thomson and Delafosse, and the morning all the bodies were 
Privates Murphy and Sulhvan — tlirown into an adjoining well, 

being strong swimmers, reached The Nana went out to oppose 
the Oudh shore, and being sue- General Havelock with 5000 men 
coured by the Talukdar of Murar and a formidable train of artillery, 
Mau, afterwards Sir Digbijai but the battle, fought 2 m. S. of 
Singh, hved to tell the story the Cantonment on i6th of July, 

of Cawnpore. The boat was ended in the confused flight of the 

subsequently overtaken by the rebels to Bithur, after they had 
enemy and brought back with blown up the Magazine. On the 
its eighty survivors. The men ^ 17th the British force marched on 
who survived in it were shot by to occupy the Cantonments, but 
order of the Nana, and the 
women and children sent to join 
the 125 who had been spared 
at the Massacre Ghat in the 1 


^ tins lay to the W. of the row of *»* 
complete barracks, and of the race-course 
W. of them, close to the Grand Trunk Road. 



ROUTE 22. SIEGE OF CAWNPORE 


ere it reached them learned the , 
mournful story of the massacres. 

Four monliis later Cawnpore 
— which had been the base of 
operations for General Havelock's 
advance on Lucknow, several times 
begun and as often suspended — was i 
the scene, once more, of bloody ^ 
engagements. Sir Colm Campbell j 
marched thence on the 9th of i 
November 1857 to relieve Luck- | 
now, leaving behind him for the I 
protection of Cawnpore, his base ! 
of operations, 500 British and 
500 Aladras troops, commanded 
by Major - General Windham, of 
Redan celebrity. On the 27th 
of November, Sir Colin began his 
march back to Cawnpore, having 
with him 2000 women, children, 
sick, and wounded, and the 
treasure wLich had been rescued 
from Lucknow. On neanng the 
Bridge of Boats, on the 28th, he 
beheld a conflagration, which 
showed him that the enemy had ; 
taken the citv to wliich he was 
returning. 

What had happened was that 
Tantia Topi, a follower of the 
Nana, at the head of 15.000 of the , 
Gwahor insurgents, had marched i 
on Cawnpore, and by well-con- 
certed movements, completed on ■ 
the 19th of November, had cut j 
off the place from all communica- j 
tion with the W. and N W , from | 
which its supplies had been 
obtained. On the 26th General 
Windham moved out from Cawn- ! 
pore and attacked and repulsed 
Tantia's right mng ; but on the ' 
two following days he was gradu- j 
ally driven back to his entrench- , 
ment on the river-side, leaving the 
bridge — the link with Lucknow — 1 
dangerously exposed. Sir Colin 1 
arrived just in time to save the 
bridge, but the clothing and stores 
prepared for the refugees from 
Lucknow fell into the hands of 
the rebels. Having despatched 1 
his convoy of ladies and wounded , 
to Allahabad, Sir Colin, on 6th . 
Oecember, took the initiative. The 
arrangements made for driving ! 


411 

the enemy back from their line 
— which rested on the city and 
the brick kilns to the W, of it, 
and extended nearly as far as 
the Ganges Canal on that side — 
were completely successful ; the 
Gwalior camp, with all its stores 
and magazines, was taken, and 
the enemy routed with great 
slaughter to beyond the canal. 
0\ring to blundering the pursuit 
of their right and centre was not 
properly pressed at the time ; but 
it was taken up next day by 
Brigadier - General Hope Grant, 
who finally scattered the enemy 
and captured fifteen guns. 

There is one more sad memory 
connected with Cawnpore — the 
death there of Captain Sir Wm. 
Peel, the gallant leader of the 
Naval Brigade from the Shannon. 
He had been wounded on the 
taking of the Martmiere on the 
Sth April, and unfortunately con- 
tracted small-pox from a dhooly 
in which he was taken to Cawm- 
pore (having refused to occupy a 
stage-carriage, which his sailors 
had upholstered for him), and 
died there on 27th April. He is 
buried in the old cemetery ^ m. W. 
of the entrenchment. Among all 
the bravest men who fought to 
put down the l\Iutin\' was none 
braver than he. 

On the way to the Memorial 
Church, which is about m. 
distant from the railway station, 
is the site of General Wheeler’s 
Entrenchment. The line of de- 
fences and the principal buildings 
inside them are indicated by 
pillars, those of the former being 
connected by a low hedge. To 
the S , across the road and adjoin- 
ing the barracks, is a small garden 
enclosure surrounding the well in 
which 250 of the garrison were 
buried. The inscription on the 
cross runs : In a well under tins 
Cross were laid, by the hands of their 
fellows in suffering, the bodies of 
men, u'omcn, and children, who 
died hard by dming the heroic 
defence of Wheeler’s Entrenchment 



412 ROUTE 22 . DELHI TO ALLA.HABAD India 


when heleaguered by the rebel Nana, \ 
— June 6 th to Z'jth, a.d. mdccclvii. 

The Memorial Church, built on 
the N.E. edge of the entrench- 
ment, is in the Romanesque style ; 
it cost over £zo,ooq, and was con- j 
secrated in 1875. It contains a ; 
series of memorials to those who ^ 
fell near here in the Mutiny. A i 
fine view of Cawnpore is obtained | 
from the belfry. Outside the j 
church, on the S. side, is a railed I 
memorial slab with an inscription : 
commemorating “ those who were 
the first to meet their death, June 
1857,” and a few yards farther E. 
is another enclosure with a cross 
recording — 

“ Here lie the remains of 
Major Edward Vi b art, 

2nd Regt. Lig^t Cavalry, 

And about 70 officers and soldiers, 

Who, after escaping from the | 

Massacre at Cawnpore, 

On the 27th of June 1857, 

Were captured by the rebels at Shivrajpur, 
And murdered on the ist of July ” 

The Sati Chaura Ghat is about : 
'2 m. N. by E. of the Church. A ; 
grassy road between banks 10 ft. - 
or 20 ft. high, hned with trees, j 
among which the murderers con- j 
cealed themselves, leads down to | 
the river. On the bank is a ; 
temple of Siva, of hexagonal shape, j 
old and going to ruin. Narrow ! 
flights of steps lead from this | 
temple to a broad enclosure flight, j 
which in the cold season descend j 
some way to the water. It is 
only too easy to imagine the 
terrible scene wliich took place 
here on 27th June 1857- i m. up 
the stream, near the fine bridge of 
the O.R. Railway, was the pontoon 
Bridge, over which the convoy, 

3 m. long, of women and wounded, 
brought from Lucknow by Sir j 
Colin Campbell, passed ; and here j 
was Windham’s small entrenched 
camp, the site of which is now | 
occupied by the Government 
Harness Factory. From the head 
of the Sati Chaura Ghat ravine 
the road runs N. over the railway 
and the Ganges Canal and past i 


the Queen’s Park, with a statue 
of the Queen - Empress, to the 
Memorial Gardens, situated at the 
E, comer of the city. These are 
beautifully laid out and well kept, 
and in the middle, upon a mound 
raised over the well in which the 
victims of the Bihi-garli massacre 
were buried, is the memorial, in 
the form of an octagonal Gothic 
screen designed by Sir Henry Yule, 
R.E. In the centre of the enclo- 
sure, on the actual well, is the 
figure of the A ngel of the Resurrec- 
tion in white marble, by Maro- 
chetti, with arms crossed on her 
breast, as if resigned to the 
Almighty Will, each hand holding 
a palm, the emblem of peace. 
This figure was the gift of Lord 
and Lady Canning. Over the 
arch IS inscribed : “ These are 

they which came out of great 
tribulation.” Around the screen 
wall which marks tJie circle of the 
well is the legend : ” Sacred to the 
perpetual Memory of a great coni- 
payiy of Christian people, chiefly 
Women and Children, who near 
this spot were cruelly murdered by 
the followers of the rebel Nana 
Dhundu Pant, of Bithur, and cast, 
the dying with the dead, into the 
well below, on the xvih day of July 
MDCCCLVII.” Neither the screen 
nor the statue can be considered 
quite satisfactory. In front of 
the monument is a small enclosed 
cemetery. Two of the tombs in 
it are to the memory of the women 
and children of the ist Company, 
6th Battery, Bengal Artillery, and 
those of H.M.’s 32nd Regiment, 
who were slaughtered near this 
spot. Near the Memorial Gardens 
is the Queen’s Park, containing a 
colossal statue of Queen Victoria 
in bronze. 


Ca^vnpore to Lucknow, 46 m. by 
railway Both the broad-gauge 
and the narrow-gauge lines run 
over this length of country. 

As far as Ajgain {22 m.) the rail- 
way closely follows the road along 



ROUTE 22. FATEHPUR 


which Sir Henry Havelock and Sir 
Cohn Campbell advanced to the 
relief of Lucknow. Beyond Unao 
{13 m.) and near A3 gain is Basirat- 
ganj, where the enemy was thrice 
defeated by the former. The hne 
passes N. of the Alambagh, and 
the railway station at Lucknow is 
situated at the Charbagh (p. 385), 
on the S. side of the old canal of 
Ghazi-ud-din Haidar. 


317 m. Fatehpur (no hotel : but 
a D.B. close to the railway station, 
and an Inspection Bungalow on 
the Grand Trunk Road). The 
headquarters of a District, and 
once a place of some importance. 
It is 48 m, by road to Cawnpore 
and 71 m. to Allahabad. There 
are roads also N.E. to Rai Bareli 
and S.W. to Banda. On the out- 
break of the Mutiny here, on 9th 
June 1857, most of the Europeans 
escaped to Banda ; but the Judge, 
Air R. T. Tucker, who refused to 
quit his post, was killed fighting 
valiantly to the last. He took up 
liis position on the roof of the 
Court building and was only over- 
come when this was set on fire. 
The Commissioner of Allahabad 
wrote : — “ It is impossible not to 
admire, how far it may be re- 
gretted, the heroic devotion of the 
late Mr Tucker ; nor is it much 
a matter of wonder that his con- 
duct and his personal prowess 
actually succeeded in preserving 
for a few hours longer some show 
of order. Mr Tucker, by his 
earnest and open profession of 
religion, and by his unbounded 
personal liberality, had com- 
manded the respect, if not the affec- 
tion, of a large number of the in- 
habitants of the city, and, when the 
excited mob returned in triumph 
from his slaughter, two Hindus of 
the town stood out before them 
and reviled them as the murderers 
of a just and holy man : it is 
scarcely necessary to add that they 
immediately shared his fate.'’ In 
the Fatehpur cemetery Air Tucker's 


413 

devotion to duty is commemorated 
I on a tombstone. Evidence of his 
religious enthusiasm still survives 
in four huge masonry piljars 
erected by him on the Grand 
Trunk Road, to the W. of the 
town, close to the -Inspection 
Bungalow. Two of these pillars 
bear inscriptions, in Urdu and 
Hindi, giving the substance of the 
Ten Commandments. Similar 
Urdu and Hindi inscriptions on the 
other tw'o pillars are quotations 
from St John's Gospel. On 12th 
July 1857 General Havelock, after 
routing the rebel forces and cap- 
turing 12 guns, re-occupied the 
tovTi. He was accompanied by 
Air Sherer, who was appointed to 
the charge of Fatehpur and Cawn- 
pore. On the 31st October 1857, 
the Naval Brigade, under Captain 
W. Peel, and a small force under 
Colonel T. S. Towell, of the 
53rd Regiment, reached Fatehpur. 
Alutuieerb, 2000 strong, were re- 
ported to be occupying a position 
at Khajuha, in the N.W. of the 
district. Towell at once sought 
out the enemy. When attacking 
on 1st November he was shot 
through the head, whereupon the 
command devolved on Peel, whose 
Brigade earned the enemy's posi- 
tion. The action is commemo- 
rated on Towell 's tomb outside the 
village of Kunwarpur, 9 m. from 
Fatehpur, within sight of the 
metalled road running from Fateh- 
pur to Bindld (17 m., the most 
important mart in the District) and 
Khajuha (21 m., a decayed town 
of some historical importance) 
and not 2 miles from the Alalwa 
station of the E.I. Railway. It 
was at Khajuha that the Emperor 
Aurangzeb overthrew his brother 
Shuja, capturing 114 guns, 115 
elephants, and much treasure. In 
honour of his victory he built a 
large sarai, enclosing 10 acres, and 
laid out the Badshahi Bagh, a 
walled garden covering 18 acres. 
One of the old garden pavilions, on 
high ground, has been converted 
into a good Inspection Bungalow, 



AlA ROUTE 23. (a) CALCUTTA TO MOKAMEH Ifta-ia 


which ahords to a traveller an ex- | 
cellent spot for breaking a journey. | 

354 m Sirathu (in the Allaha- 
bad District), for Kora. This 
place was once of equal importance 
with Allahabad, which was known ; 
as the Province of Allahabad and j 
Kora. There are still some inter- ; 
esting remains and ruins at it. It i 
was here that Ala-ud-din Khilji ' 
basely murdered his uncle, the j 
Emperor Jalal-ud-din, in 1296 j 

389 m. Allahabad junction 
(p. 41). The hne passes the 

Khusru Bagh and affords glimpses 
of the mausolea in it. 


ROUTE 23. 

(a) CALCUTTA by the East India 
Railway loop-line to Lakhi- 
sarai and Mokameh by 
Nalhati Junction (Aztmganj) , 
Tinpahar Junction (Rajmahal, 
visit to Malda for Gaur and 
Pandua), Bhagaipur, and 
Jamalpur, for Monghyr. 

(&) MOKAMEH to TIRHUT. 

(c) CALCUTTA to Plassey and 
Murshidabad by Eastern Ben- 
gal Railway and on to Malda. 

(d) CALCUTTA by Eastern Bengal 

Railway to Darjeeling by 
Ishurdi, Siliguri, and Kur- 
seong. Routes into, and in, 
Sikhim. 


(a) Lakhisarai and Mokameh by 
Nalhati (Azimganj), Tinpahar 
(Rajmahal), Bhagalpur, and 
Jamalpur, for Monghyr. 

Howrah (p. 95). 

67 m. Burdwan (p. 53). 

75 m. to Khana junction (see 
p, 55). Here the loop-line 
branches off N. to 

145 m. Nalhati junction station. 
Here it is necessary to change 
for the Nalhati State Railway, 
branching E. to 

27 m. Azimganj station. (There 
IS a D.B. at Jiaganj, opposite 
Azimganj.) On the right bank ol 
the Bhagirathi River, about 5 m. 
above Murshidabad. The E.I. 
Railw'ay is opening a new station 
(name not yet fixed) on the Bandel- 
Barharwa line opposite Murshida- 
bad. The population of the muni- 
cipal area of Azimganj is 12,327 
(census of 1911). It is an impor- 
tant centre of the Jains. The 
Bhagirathi is here 700 ft. broad, 
and rises in the rains 25 ft., when 
the current runs 7 m, an hour. 
During the rains a steamer service 
between Azimganj and Berham- 
pore is open ; if a conveyance has 
been arranged for, the river may 
be crossed to the E. bank, from 
where a metalled road leads in 
3 m. to 

Murshidabad. This place is 
reached direct from Calcutta now, 
and is described under route (i?)- 

195 m. Tinpahar junction sta- 
tion. 

A branch line runs N.E. (7. m.) 
to 


202 m. Rajmahal station, a sub- 
District of the Santal Parganas. 
The town stands on the W.. or 



ROUTE 23. RAJMAHAL — FNLGISH BAZAR 


right, bank of the Ganges. It 
was once the capital of Bengal, 
and has many historical associa- 
tions, while it afiords opportunities 
of seeing some specimens of the 
remarkable tribe of Santais. 

Up to 1592 A.D. it was known 
as Agmahal, but when Raja Man 
Singh (p. 197), Akbar’s famous 
Rajput general, returned from 
the conquest of Orissa in 1592 A d., 
he made it the seat of his Govern- 
ment, and changed its name to 
Rajmahal. In 1607 Islam Khan 
transferred the seat of Govern- 
ment to Dacca, but it was again 
brought to Rajmahal by Sultan 
Shuja in 1639. In the beginning 
of the next century Murshid Kuli 
Khan transferred the Government 
to Murshidabad, and Rajmahal 
fell into decay. In 1863 the 
Ganges abandoned its channel, 
and Rajmahal was left 3 m dis- 
tant from the main stream, and 
this finally completed the fall of 
the place. The river has since 
returned to its old bed. but 
Rajmahal has ceased to have any 
commercial importance. 

N. of the station are the sub- " 
Divisional Officer’s Office (formerly 
the Mughal Governor's house) and 
other public buildings. A little 
farther on are remains of a 
building called the San^i Dal an 
(“Hall of Stone”). It is 100 ft 
long from N. to S , and has three 
doors of black basalt in the centre. 
This is said to have been part of 
the palace of Sultan Shuja, son 
of Shah Jahan and Governor of 
Bihar. 

The Maina Tank is £ m. due W. 
of the Cutcherry. At its S. end is 
a massive brick building, with an 
Arabic inscription ; and 100 yds. 
to the S. is the Maina Mosque. 
There is a tomb of a !\Iaina Bibi 

The Hadaf is 4 m. to the N.W. 
The road leads through a forest of 
tall trees, with ruined buildings at 
intervals. At m. it passes a 
solid brick building on the right 
hand, called the Tanksal, or Mint, 
with walls ft. thick. The 1 


415 

Hadaf ruins are about 200 yds. 
off the road to the left, and are 
much hidden by the jungle. The 
entrance to the quadrangle is by 
the E. gateway, which is much 
injured. T|ae mosque proper has 
a facade 200 ft. long, with seven 
arches, each 22 ft. high In the 
centre of the quadrangle is a 
reservoir, with steps down to the 
water. The buildings are sur- 
rounded by dense jungle, but 
the actual structures have been 
cleared. 

The journey to English Bazar, 
the headquarters of the Malda 
District, 24 m. distant, used to be 
made by road from Rajmahal. It 
can now be made b}" railway from 
Murshidabad or Katihar (pp. 419, 
425) in 3 to 5 hours. 


Englisli Bazar (14,000 inhabi- 
tants) is situated on the right 
bank of the Mahananda about 4 m. 
below Old IMalda, from which the 
District takes its name. The place 
is not often visited by travellers, 
and arrangements for the present 
journey by road should be made 
by writing to the Collector 
at Malda The distance from 
English Bazar to the N. edge of 
Gaur is about 4 m , and to the 
principal mosques ii m. ; and to 
the Adina Mosque at Pandua is 
also about ii m. The visit to 
each of these places will occupy a 
whole day 

Old Malda lies at the confluence 
of the Kalindri with the Maha- 
nanda It is an admirable posi- 
tion for river traffic, and probably 
rose to prosperity as the port of the 
Muhammadan capital of Pandua. 
During the i8th century it was 
the seat of thriving cotton and 
silk manufactures, and the French 
and Dutch had factories at it. 
The English factory, established 
in 1656, however, was always at 
English Bazar, lower down the 
Mahananda, and on the opposite 
bank of the river. 

The ruins of Gaur and Pandua, 



India 


ROUTE 23. (a) CALCUTTA TO MOKAMEH 


416 

successive capitals of Bengal, are 
very picturesque and interesting, 
but chiefly, of course, to the anti- 
quarian. The sites of these old 
cities are being rapidly brought 
under the plough, arui the dense 
jungles which thirty years ago 
sheltered tigers and leopards no 
longer exist. 

Gaur was the metropolis of 
Bengal under its Hindu Kings. 
Its most ancient name was Lakh- 
nauti, a corruption of Lakshmana- 
wati. But the name of Gaur also 
is of great antiquity, as is found 
in the Gauriya Brahmana. Its 
known history begins with its 
conquest, about 1200 a.d.,^ by 
the Muhammadans, who made it 
the chief centre of their power in 
Bengal for more than three cen- 
turies. A son of the Emperor 
Altamsh was Governor here, and 
the eldest son of Balban, Nasir- 
ud-din Bugra, became King of 
Bengal and refused the throne of 
Delhi. He was succeeded by two 
sons and a grandson, and then, 
about 1350, one Ilyas founded a 
kingdom which, with an interreg- 
num, lasted till nearly 1500 a.d. 
When the Afghan Kings of Bengal 
became independent they made 
Pandua their capital {c. 1354 a.d.), 
and robbed Gaur of all the building 
material that could be removed. 
This accounts for the number of 
sculptured Hindu stones amongst 
the ruins of Pandua. When 
Pandua was in its turn deserted 
Gaur again became the capital, 
and was called Jannatabad 
(“Terrestrial Paradise""), a name 
which occurs in the Ain-i-Akhari, 
It was sacked by Sher Shah in 
1537, and the last of the Afghan 
Kings, Daud Khan, was absorbed 
into Akbar"s empire in 1573 a.d. 
The city was entirely ruined by an 
outbreak of the pla^e in 1575. 
Contemporary narratives describe 
the place, in its prime, as ex- 

1 Blochmann says 1198 a.d. ; Mr Thomas, 
t202; Major Raverty, 1194. 


tremely populous, containing the 
residence of the court and numer- 
ous seats of learning, and enjoying 
an immense trade. 

The dimensions of the city 
proper, within the great continuous 
embankment, are 7J m. from N. to 
S., and I m. to 2 m. broad. The 
W. side was washed by the Ganges, 
which flowed where the channel 
of the Little Bhagirathi now is. 
The E. side was protected by the 
Mahananda and by swamps. On 
the S. the Mahananda joined the 
Ganges, and left little space for 
an enemy to encamp. On the N. a 
fortification 6 m. long extends in 
an irregular curve from the old 
channel of the Bhagirathi at 
Sonatala to near the Mahananda 
and Bholahat. This rampart is 
100 ft. wide at base. 

In front of this rampart lay the 
most celebrated piece of artificial 
water in Bengal, the Sagar Dighi, 
1600 yds. long by 800 yds. broad, 
dating from 1126 a.d. On the 
bank is the tomb of Makhdum 
Shaikh Akhi Siraj-ud-din and a 
small mosque, and S. of these is a 
ghat called S"adullapur, leading 
down to the sacred river. S. of 
this rampart was the N. suburb, 
between which and the city was 
another strong rampart and ditch. 
Towards the Mahananda the city 
rampart was double, and in most 
parts there have been two im- 
mense ditches, and in places three. 

I m. inside the city to the S., on 
the Bhagirathi, was the Citadel, i m. 
long from N. to S., and from 600 
yds. to 800 yds. broad. The brick 
wall was very strong, with many 
flanking angles, and round bas- 
tions at the comers. On the N. 
side is the fine Dakhil Gate. It is 
built of small red bricks, and has 
been adorned with embossed 
can still be seen on 
um towers at the four corners. 
The arch of the gateway is about 
30 ft. high, and forms a corridor 
In the S.E. comer 
of the citadel was the palace, 
surrounded by a brick wail 66 ft. 



ROUTE 23 


GAUR 


417 


high and S ft. thick, with an 
ornamented comice — hence called 
the Bdis Gaji, “ Twenty - two 
Yards Wall.” At the S.E. corner 
of the citadel are two mosques ; 
the smaller one, called the Kadam 
Rasul, ^ built by Nasrat Shah 
in 937 A.H. (1530 A.D.), is now 
kept in repair by the Indian Gov- 
ernment. In connection with this 
mosque is preserved a stone, bear- 
ing what is reputed to be a foot- 
print of the Prophet Muhammad. 
This is now in the custody of one 
Fayyaz Husain of Mahdipur, who 
produces it for the inspection of 
visitors. Mr Fergusson says of 
its style : “ It is neither like that 
of Delhi, nor that of Jaunpur, nor 
any other style, but one purely 
local, and not without considerable 
merit in itself ; its principal char- 
acteristic being heavy, short pil- 
lars of stone supporting pointed 
arches, and vaults in brick. The 
solidity of the supports goes far to 
redeem the inherent weakness of 
brick architecture. It also pre- 
sents, though in a very subdued 
form, the curved linear form of the 
roof, which is so characteristic of 
the style.” Near it are the domed 
tomb of Fateh Khan and S.E. 
gateway of the citadel. Half a 
mile N. of this, outside the E. wall 
of the citadel, is a lofty brick 
tower, known as Pir Asa Minay, 
W'hich had a chamber with four 
wundows at the top, to which 
access was gained by a winding 
stair. The correct name of this 
tower is Firoz Shah IMinar, Pir 
Asa being a local corruption. It 
was probably erected by Husain 
Shah in commemoration of his 
victories in Assam. Sir W. W. 
Hunter says: ” One of the most 
interesting of the antiquities of the 
place is a minar. For tw^o-thirds 
of the height it is a polygon of 
twelve sides ; above that circular 

^ detailed account of the ruins 

at Gaur and Pandua ib contained in Mr 
Kavenshaw’s Gattr. A brief description will 

found in Mr Fergusson’s Indfan Archi- 
iechtre, 2, 253. 


until it attains the height of 84 ft. 
The door is at some distance from 
the present level of the ground : 
and altogether it looks more like an 
Irish round tow'er than a minavP 
There is, or was, an inscription on 
this monument which ascribed 
its erection to Firoz Shah (1490 

A.D.). 

Half a mile X W. again of this, 
and above the X.E. corner of the 
citadel, is the finest ruin in Gaur 
—that of the Golden Mosque, or 
Bayadwari It measures 168 ft. 
from N. to S., 76 ft. from E. to W., 
and is 20 ft. high. The entrance 
is by an arched gateway of stone 
26 ft. in height and 6 ft. in breadth. 
The mosque in plan is oblong, and 
originally consisted of four separ- 
ate colonnades, arched and roofed 
over, and covered by handsome 
domes, in all 44 in number. Six 
minarets or columns of brown 
stone faced with black marble 
adorn the building ; bands of 
hornblende about 12 in. in breadth 
embrace the column from the 
base to the capital, and are 
adorned -with a profusion of 
fiow^er work carved in marble. 
There was a raised platform at 
the N.W. corner of the mosque, 
probably for the use of ladies of 
the Court. Traces of this still 
remain. The domes are built of 
brick. The whole appearance of 
this building is strikingly grand, 
exhibiting the taste and munifi- 
cence of the Prince who erected 
it — viz., Nasrat Shah, 1526 a.d. 

Half a mile E. ot the Kadam 
Rasul, on the side of the main 
road, is the P aniipaya Mosque, 
remarkable for the specimens of 
embossed brickwork with which 
the front is adorned. It w^as 
probably built in 1475 a.d. 

Half a mile S. again is the 
Lattan Mosqus, also called the 
Painted Mosque, from the bricks 
being enamelled in green,- yellow'’, 
blue, and white, and arranged in 
bands. When complete the effect 
of these must have been very 
striking. 


2D 



Ifidia 


418 ROUTE 23^. (a) CALCUTTA 

Half a mile above it is the I 
Piasbari Tank, with a small R.H. i 
A tradition states that the water ; 
of this tank was formerly very ; 
impure and injurious to health, : 
and that condemned prisoners 
were allowed only this water ; 
to drink. ■ Piasbari means the ; 

House of Thirst." 

In the S- wall of the city is a , 
fine central gate, called the Kot~ ' 
wali Darwaza, and S. from it | 
stretches an immense suburb : 
called Firozpur. In it, 2 m. from I 
the S. wall, is the Lesser Golden 
M osque , which iMr Ra vensha w ’ 
calls the " gem of Gaur." It ; 
dates from the end of the 15th | 
century. The carved stone panels 1 
in the front wall display very fine , 
workmanship. j 

i 

Pandua is 7 m . N . E . from ' 
Malda and 13 m. from English I 
Bazar. It was called by the 
Muhammadans Firozahad. The 
first independent King of Bengal ^ 
made it his capital. A road paved 1 
with brick, from 12 ft. to 15 ft. j 
wide, passes through Pandua, ! 
and almost all the monuments 
are on the borders of it. Near 
the middle is a bridge of three 
arches, the materials of which 
have evidently been brought from 
the Hindu temples at Gaur, 
as figures of men and animals 
are sculptured on them. On 
approaching the ruins from the 
S., the first objects that attract 
attention are the 17th - century 
shrines of Makhdum Shah Jalal 
and his grandson, Kuib 'Alam 
Shah, called the Chhe Hazari and 
Bdis Hazari, or 6000 and 22,000, 
from the area with which they 
were endowed. To the N. stands 
the small Golden Mosque, with 
granite walls and ten brick domes. 
An Arabic inscription says that it 
was built by Makhdum Shaikh, 
son of Muhammad Al-Khalidi, in 
1585 A.D. N. of this is a high 
building, called Eklahhi, as having 
cost a lakh. It is perhaps one 
of the finest examples of the 


TO MOKAMEH : PANDUA 

BengaU tomb. It is 80 ft. square, 
covered by one dome, and con- 
tains the remains of Ghias-ud- 
din, his wife, and his daughter-in- 
law. 2 m. beyond it is the tomb 
of Sikandar, father of Ghias-ud- 
din, and the greatest of the 
monarchs who made Pandua their 
capital. It forms part of the 
great mosque, called the Adina 
Masjid, the finest specimen of 
Mughal architecture in Ix>wer 
Bengal, It w^as built about 1360 
by Sikandar Shah, and show's 
traces of having been constructed 
out of Hindu and even Buddhistic 
remains. The “ Buddhist rail- 
ing " round the W. front is incap- 
able of any other explanation. 
The Kibla (central hall) and 
Mimbar (pulpit) are gems of stone 
carsdng. According to Mr Fer- 
gusson, the ground plan and 
dimensions are exactly similar to 
those of the Great Mosque at 
Damascus. It extends 500 ft. 
from N. to S., and 300 ft. from 
E . to W . This space is sub- 
divided by transverse brick walls 
and stone pillars into 127 squares, 
each covered by a dome. On the 
outside are many small windows, 
highly decorated with carved tiles 
disposed in arches. The mosque 
proper is composed of a central 
apartment and two wings. The 
first is 62 ft. high in the centre 
from the floor to the middle of 
the dome. To the N. of it is a 
ruined gallery, as in the mosques 
at Ahmadabad, known as the 
Takht Badshahi. 

The only other ruin of note in 
Pandua is th- '' 

have been tt 
is situated ^ ^ 

Mosque, in the midst of dense 
jungle. The remains of numerous 
cells, beheved to be baths, may 
still be noticed. 

Tigers are no longer found in the 
District, and other game is less 
plentiful than it used to be; the 
English sportsman who desires to 
hunt them must be prepared to 
spend time and money, and must 



ROUTE 23, SAHIBGANJ- 

take advice from experienced 
Nimrods who know the locality. 


From Tinpahar station the loop- 
line continues N. to 

219 m. Sahihganj junction, 
for Manihari Ghat and Katihar, 
across the Ganges, on the Eastern 
Bengal Raihvay (next column). It 
is becoming a centre of trade. 
The industries are sahat grass (for 
paper manufacture) and oil mills ; 
there are stone quarries near, 

265 m. Bhagalpur (D.B.) (popu- 
lation 74,349), headquarters of 
a Division and District in the 
Province of Bihar and Orissa, 
picturesquely situated on rolling 
ground on the S. bank of the 
Ganges. There is a monument 
here to Mr Cleveland, who first 
reclaimed the Santals from 
savagery and robbery. Ferry and 
branch line to (23 m.) Thana 
Bihpur on B.N.W. Railway, and 
branch line (E.I. Railway) to 
Bausi, in S. of District. 

298 m. Jamalpur junction, 
headquarters of the Locomotive 
Department of the East India 
Railway, and of the Volunteer 
Corps of that hue, and con- 
sequently with an important 
European colony. The sacred 
Sita Kund hot springs are 3 m. 
from here. 

Monghyr, 5 J m. from Jamalpur, 
is also the headquarters of a 
district (D.B., hotel) (population 
46,961). The Civil Station is 
most picturesquely situated inside 
an old Mughal fort, to which Mir 
Kasim fell back from Murshidabad 
in order to be farther from the 
overwhelming influence of Cal- 
cutta. The place is still noted 
for the manufacture of arms. 
Within the fort, towards its N.W. 
corner, a rocky spur projects into 
the river, on the edge of which 


“MONGHYR— BARAUNI 4 I9 

are several picturesque temples ; 
there are few' bits of river scenery 
in India which are more pleasing 
than this. Ferry and branch hne 
to Sahibpur Kamal, on B.N.W, 
Railway. 

There are several places of in- 
terest in the immediate vicinity of 
Monghyr. Three miles to the E. 
is the hill called Pirpahar, on 
which stands a magnificent house, 
said to have been built by Mir 
Kasim’s Armenian General, Gur- 
ghin Khan. A little to the S.E. 
of this are the sacred hot springs of 
Sitakund (previously mentioned). 
About 2 m. S. of Monghyr is 
the Dakra Nala where are to be 
seen the remains of an ancient 
bridge w'hich was blown up by 
Mir Kasim in his retreat before 
the British forces. 

336 m, Lakhisarai (p. 49). 

346 m. Mokameh (p. 49), 

(6) Tirhut. 

Mokameh (p. 49) and Mokameh 
Ghat, through which the fast 
trains of the East India Railway 
run now, are the starting-points 
for the branches of the Bengal 
and North-Western Railway, all 
constructed within the last twenty- 
five years, a^nd connecting the 
whole country between Oudh and 
the Teesta River wdth the S. bank 
of the Ganges. 

4 m. Barauni. The main hne 
of the Bengal and North-Western 
Railway runs E. from here to 
Katihar (112 m.), with branches 
to the river opposite Monghyr, 
Bhagalpur, and Sahibganj, and 
W. to Hajipur (54 m.), Sonepore 
(58 m.), and Chapra (87 m.). 
Sonepore is well known for its 
annual gathering of the planters 
of Tirhut, and for its fair, which 
was once the principal fair in all 
India for the sale and purchase of 
elephants. < 

The mam line to Tirhut proceeds 
from Semaria Ghat to Samastipiir 



420 


India 


ROUTE 23. (6) MOKAMEH TO TIRHUT 


(38 m.), from which one branch 
runs vtd Darblianga (23 m. N.) to 
Narkatiagunj (118 m. N.W.) and 
Bagha {26 m. W.), and thence 
to Gorakhpur (62 m . S AV . ) in 
the United Provinces. Another 
branch runs from Darbhanga to 
Sakri (12 m . N .E . ) , Bhaptiahi 
(42 m. E.) and Partabganj Ghat 
(ii m. E.) in District Bhagulpur, 
There is a branch hne from Sakri 
to Madhubani {ii m. N.) and 
thence to Raj na gar (6 m.) and 
Jainagar (13 m.) on the Nepal 
frontier. There is another branch 
Ime from Samastipur to Rusera 
Ghat (18 m. S.E.) and thence to 
Khagaria (35 m.). From Samas- 
tipur the main line to Tirhut runs 
to Muzaffarpur (32 m. N.W.), from 
where there is a branch to Hajipur 
on the main Une of the Bengal 
and N.W. Railway (Cawnpore to 
Katihar), which again meets the 
Tirhut line at Buchhwara (between 
Semaria Ghat and Samastipur) , 
and leaving it at Barauni (6 m. 
from Semaria Ghat) proceeds to 
Katihar (112 m, E.). From Muzaf- 
farpur the distances by rail are 
50 m. to Motihari (D.B.), 63 m. to 
Sagaiili, and 77 m. to Bettiah 
(D-B.). 

Darbhanga is the residence ot 
the Maharaja of Darbhanga, who 
is of Brahman descent and one of 
the largest landlords in Bengal, 
Bihar and Orissa. The title of 
Raja was granted to the family in 
1700 and of Maharaja in 1B39. 
Sir Rameshwar Singh, the present 
Maharaja Bahadur, was a member 
of the Executive Council of the 
Province of Bihar and Orissa. 
The palace is a very fine building 
and the city (population 62,628) 
contains a number of very large 
tanks. The Government Offices 
are situated atjLaheria-Sarai, which 
is within the Darbhanga Munici- 
pality and 3 m. by rail from 
Darbhanga station. There is a 
good D.B. at Laheria - Sarai. 
Samastipur *and Madhubani are 
the headquarters' stations of the 
two subdivisions of the District, 


and there are D.Bs. at both 
places.^ At Rajnagar there is a 
magnificent palace built by the 
present Maharaja. The building 
is one of the show places of the 
Pro\hnce. There are two Euro- 
pean Clubs, one at Laheria-Sarai 
and the other at Samastipur. Six 
m. by road from Waini on the 
railway line between Samastipur 
and Muzaffarpur is Pusa, where 
there is an Agricultural Research 
Institute, fully equipped with 
laboratories, museums, library and 
reading rooms. The building is 
a very fine and imposing one and 
was built at the initiative of Lord 
Curzon ; Mr Phipps, an American 
gentleman, made a substantial 
donation towards its cost. There 
are a Club, and a commodious and 
furnished guest-house, at Pusa. 
The District abounds in old temples 
and places of historical interest, 
being identified with the ancient 
Hindu Kingdom of Mithila men- 
tioned in Hindu mythological 
works. 

From Sagauli a branch of 18 m. 
runs to Raxaul, the starting-point 
for Katmandu, the capital of Nepal. 
16 m. N. of Bettiah, at Lauriya 
Nandangarh, is a Buddhist stone 
lat, crowned by a hon — almost the 
only isolated one in India which 
still bears a recognisable figure. 
(There is another column at Lau- 
riya Araraj, S. of Bettiah.) The 
funeral mounds near the Asoka 
column at Lauriya Nandangarh 
are the only indisputably Vedic 
monuments yet identified in India. ^ 

From Sonepore the Bengal and 
N.W. Railway goes W. to Chapra, 
where one branch (a) runs to 
Manjhi Ghat and crosses the 
Gogra River there, and goes up to 
Jhusi (near Allahabad) via Ghazi- 
pur (where the Governor-General 
I^rd Cornwallis died on 5th 
October 1805) and Benares Can- 
tonment. From Aunrihar on 
this hne a branch runs N.W. 
to Jaunpur and another from 

1 Dir.-GenL Arch^BoL Ann. Rep., 1906-7, 
p. 119, 7 



421 


ROUTE 23. GORAKHPUR KASIA 


Phephua to Azamgarli (70 m.) 
and Shahganj (105 m.), on the 
O. and R. Railway. Jhusi is 
197 m., Ghazipur 80 m., and 
Benares 126 m. from Chapra. 
(Owing to the opening of the 
Manjhi Ghat Bridge over the 
Gogra the mileage has been 
shortened. Before the construc- 
tion of the bridge the traffic over 
the river was carried on by 
steamer, and according to a rule 
of the railway company the 
distance of the river from one 
bank to the other was taken to 
be 21 m. Since the construction 
of the bridge the actual distance 
is taken.) From Chapra another 
branch of the Bengal and N W. 
Railway (b) runs N.W. up the 
left bank of the river to Gorakh- 
pur (112 m. from Chapra) and 
Gonda (207 m.). 

A branch line runs from here 
(Sonepore) to Palezaghat in,), 
from which a steamer crosses 
the Ganges to Dighaghat for 
Bankipore. 

From Gorakhpur (named after 
a Hindu saint, Goraknath) a 
branch line runs N. to (40 m.) 
Uska Bazar, and goes on to 
Balrampur and Gonda (p. 375). 
This corner of the Tarai is of 
special interest as having been the 
undoubted seat of the birth of 
Buddha, and of many of the 
scenes connected with his life and 
death. What has been identified 
beyond all doubt of late years are 
(i) a stupa raised over part of the 
relics of Buddha at Piprawa, 6 m. 
X. of Birdpur ; and (2) the Lum- 
bini Garden, now called the 
Runmiiii Dei, where Buddha was 
born, 9 m. E. of Piprawa. At the 
former was found by Mr Peppe, 
owner of the estate, in January 
1S98, a relic •* casket inscribed, 
“ This relic shrine of the Divine 
Buddha is that of the Sakyas/’ 
who received one - eighth of the 
relics and erected a stupa over 
them near Kapilavastu. At the 
latter was discovered a lat of 


, King Asoka, split down the 

■ middle, with an inscription that 
; here Buddha Sakyamuni was 
' born.'* This column had been 

once surmounted by a horse, and 
Hiuen Tsang m his travels (629- 
i 645 A.D.) recorded that he saw 
I at the birthplace a pillar which 
1 had been split by lightning, and 
i which bore a horse. The bell- 
shaped capital of it has also been 
i discovered, and in an adjoining 

■ temple a relief of the birth scene 
, of Buddha, in which his mother. 

I T^Iaya-devi, stands erect holding 
. the branch of a sal-tree, and the 
! child stands on the ground at her 

right, a usual motive. Kapila- 
1 vastu lay 10 m. to 15 rn. . of this 
I garden, and the site is possibly 
I marked by extensive ruins at 
' TauUva Kot, g m. K.W. of 
I Piprawa. Gorakhpur is the site of 
the workshops of the B. and K.W. 
j Railway, and a centre for the 
recruitment of Gurkha soldiers for 
; the Indian army, but has no 
I features of architectural or his- 
' torical interest in itself. It has no 
I hotel. Gorakhpur to Fyzabad, 
i 79 m. ; Fyzabad to Gonda, 29 ni. ; 
i Gonda to Berhampur, 29 m. 

I Kasia, 21 m. K. of “ Tahsil 
Peoria " Railway Station, 12 m. S. 

, of Padrauna and 34 m. E. of Gor- 
akhpur (connected with all those 
by metalled roads) is merely a 
I subdi visional headquarters, con- 
taining an Inspection Bungalow 
! (permission to occupy can be ob- 
I tained from the Chairman, District 
, Board, Gorakhpur), ij m. to the 
W- of Kasia is the group of ruins 
w'hich are believed to be the site of 
. Kusinagara and the scene of the 
death of Buddha. The remains 
! comprise six groups ; the first con- 
j sists of an isolated brick stupa 
I some 50 ft. in height and over- 
I grown with trees on the W. edge of 
: the Ramabhar Tal, bearing the 
' name of Devisthan or Ramabhar 
' Bhawani : the second is a small 
I mound of ruins to the S.W. of this 
I stupa and a short distance to the 



422 


India 


ROUTE 23. (c) CALCUTTA TO MURSHIDABAD 


N.E, of the village of Anrudhwa. 
The third is the Matha Kunwar- 
ka-kot, about a mile W. of the 
Ramabhar stupa, comprising a 
temple with a colossal recumbent 
image of the dying Buddha, a large 
stupa, several monasteries and 
other buildings. The fourth is a 
colossal statue of the seated 
Buddha, called Matha Kunwar, 
about 400 yards S.W, from the 
kot, while the fifth consists of 
the remains of an enclosing wall 
and the last of a number of small 
earthen mounds and barrows, 
locally called Bhimawat, to the 
N. and E. of the kot. Some ex- 
cavations made here in 1896, and 
further work done in 1904-7, 
showed that the stupa and temple 
of the dying Buddha were the 
nucleus of an extensive group of 
Buddliist buildings, comprising 
several large monasteries, a few 
small shrines and a great number 
of brick stupas of various sizes. 
These buildings belong to widely 
different periods, and those of 
later date have been raised on the 
ruins of earher monuments. It 
also became evident that the his- 
tory of this sacred site does not 
start from the erection of the Nir- 
vana image, for the evidence of 
coins and other inscribed objects 
proves that several of the build- 
ings date back to the Kushana and 
early Gupta epochs. In the fifth 
or sixth century a portion of the 
buildings was destroyed in a fire, 
possibly due to an invasion of the 
Huns. In the neighbourhood 
numerous clay seals inscribed 
“ Convent of the Great Decease,” 
have been found. The place is 
visited by a considerable number 
of Buddhist pilgrims mostly from 
Burma. 


(c) Calcutta by E. Bengal Railway 
to Plassey and MuraMdabad, 

7-8 hrs. 

Sealda station (p. yx). 


24 m. Naihati, 

46 m. Eanaghat junction. 

62 m. Krishnagar. 

Nabadwip, 7 m. by road 
from Krishnagar (by crossing the 
river Bhagirathi, or by the E.I. 
Railway from Howrah) is a cele- 
brated seat of Sanskrit learning, 
and is also a great place of pilgrim- 
age, being known as the “ Benares 
of Bengal.” 

Santipur {on the Ranaghat- 
S anti pur- Krishnagar Light Rail- 
way) is another ancient and im- 
portant town, once famous for its 
fine muslins. 

94 m. Plassey. There is a good 
bungalow 3 m. from the railway 
station, but travellers must make 
their own arrangements for meals 
and servants. There aite no con- 
veyances available from the station 
to the bungalow. 

The bungalow is in the charge 
of the Executive Engineer, Nadia 
Rivers Division, Berhampore, Ben- 
gal ; travellers should ascertain 
from him whether the bungalow 
will be vacant if they wish to 
spend a night there. There are no 
hotels in the Nadia District, but 
there are good D.Bs. at several 
places. 

Plassey, so called from the 
Palas - tree [biUea frondosa), is 
famous for CUve's great victory in 
X757* The position of the British 
forces is marked by a mound near 
the river-bank and the old monu- 
ment, and has now been more 
fully indicated on the ground at 
the instance of Lord Curzon, who 
has erected a second memorial. 

The British force advanced from 
Chandernagore (p. 97) on 13th 
June, first to Katwa, and then 
across the Bhagirathi, between 
which and the JaUnghi channel of 
the Ganges Plassey was situated, 
and advanced against Suraj-ud- 



route 23. PLASSEY— BERHAMPORE MURSHIDABAD 


423 


daula's army at that place on the 
night of 22nd June. The battle 
opened the next day, 23rd, at 
8 A.M., the French in the service 
of the Nawab facing the left of 
the British line, which touched the 
river, and the huge Indian forces 
of the Nawab forming a semicircle 
on the right front and right of that 
hne. About midday a heavy 
downpour of rain occurred, and 
the British guns, having been pro- 
tected during it, overpowered the 
advance made by the enemy a 
little later. The Indian forces 
then fell back to the entrenched 
camp ; the Nawab was counselled 
by traitors to flee, and Alir Jafir 
separated himself in accordance 
wuth his understanding with Clive, 
who thereupon advanced and 
drove the French from their 
position, and afterwards took the 
entrenched camp, the enemy then 
offering but Uttle resistance. The 
British force amounted to 3000, 
of whom one-third were Europeans 
— 800 of these being English — and 
the Nawab ’s force to over 60,000. 
Captain Eyre Coote, who had been 
a strong supporter of the counsel 
to fight, which Clive ultimately 
adopted, distinguished himself 
greatly m the battle. The monu- 
ments for the Plassey battlefield 
are to be seen 3 m. from the 
Plassey Railway Station on the 
Ranaghat- Krishnagar - Murshida ► 
bad Branch of the E.B. Railway. 

116 m. Berhampore, 7 m. below 
Murshidabad (D.B.) (population 
26,142), the civil headquarters 
of the Murshidabad District. The 
Krishnaneth CoUege here is affili- 
ated to the Calcutta University. 
After the Battle of Plassey, as the 
factory house at Kasimbazar, 
where Warren Hastings resided, 
had been destroyed by Suraj-ud- 
daula, Berhampore was chosen 
as a site for a Cantonment, the 
barracks of which cost /3 02, 2 70. 
It will always be notorious as the 
scene of the first overt act of 
mutiny in 1857, which occurred 


on the 25th of February, when 
the 19th Regiment of Indian In- 
fantry refused to receive their 
ammunition. Farther than this 
the mutiny did not go, but the 
Regiment was marched down to 
Barrackpore and disbanded there. 

1 18 m. Kasimbazar. This was 
the British trading - station pre- 
vious to 1757. after which it was 
moved to Berhampore. In the old 
cemetery are buried the first wife 
of Warren Hastings and her 
daughter. She was the widow of 
Captain John Buchanan, a victim 
of the Black Hole. There is also 
an old Dutch Cemetery here. 

123 m. Murshidabad, the chief 
city of the district of the same 
name. This was the residence of 
the Nawab Nazims of Bengal, and 
was called after the great Nawab 
Murshid Kuli Khan,^ the original 
name being Maksudabad, whence 
the Muxadabad of old records. 
It was a prosperous place in the 
last century, and owed much of its 
wealth to its being upon the line of 
trade from the interior of India 
to the European settlements on 
the Hooghly. 

The population (according to 
the last (1911} census) of Mur- 
shidabad city is 12,669. Mur- 
shidabad was formerly famous for 
carved ivory, embroideries, etc. 
But now these trades are confined 
to a few families of carvers at 
Jiaganj and Khagra. An intro- 
duction to the Nawab of Murshida- 
bad, through the Magistrate and 
Collectori who resides at Berham- 
pore, will greatly facilitate the 
sight-seeing of the place. 

1 The well-known Subadars and Nawab 
Na/ims of Bengal were Murshid Kuli Khan 
(known also _ as Jafir Khan, a converted 
Brahman), died 1725 ; Shuja Khan, died 
172S ; Alivardi Khan, died 1756 ; Suraj-ud- 
daula ; Mir Jafir (see left column), and Mir 
Kasim(pp. 49 and 419). The famous Jain Seth 
family of Murshidabad which bore the title 
of Jagat Seth, or World Trader, and played 
a prominent part in the affairs of Bengal in 
the i8th century, resided at Mahimapur, 2 
m. N. of Murshidabad. 



India 


424 ROUTE 23. (c) CALCUTTA TO MURSHIDABAD 


The Bera (Raft) Festival is still 
celebrated here, in honour of 
Khwaja Khizr (the prophet 
Elias) on the night of the last 
Thursday of the Bengali month 
of Bhadra. 

The Palace of the Nawab, which, 
with the surrounding buildings, 
enclosed by a wall, goes by the 
name of the Nizamat Kila, is 
situated on the river-bank about 
the centre of the town, and is in 
the Italian style, somewhat re- 
sembling Government House at 
Calcutta. It was built in 1837 at 
a cost of £16 j, 000, the architect 
being General Macleod of the 
Bengal Engineers. It contains a 
circular Darbar - room, and a 
Banqueting - room 290 ft. long, 
with a picture of the Burial of 
Sir John Moore, by Marshall, 
at the W. end, and many 
other handsome apartments. The 
Armoury is well worthy of a 
visit. In the Library are some 
very rare MSS. 

In the same enclosure with the 
palace is the Imambara, built in 
1847. 

j ust outside the city is the 
Katra, containing the tomb of 
Murshid Kuli Khan. It was 
constructed on the model of the 
Great Mosque at Mecca, with two 
minarets 70 ft. high, but is now in 
ruins. 

Near this, and 60 ’yds. from the 
road, is the Great Gun, the sister 
gun to that at Dacca. It is 17^ ft. 
long, with a girth of 5 ft. at the 
breech and a calibre of 6 in. This 
cannon, which had been left lying 
on the ground for many years, has 
been lifted up 5 ft. in the air by a 
pipal - tree which has grown up 
from a seedling beneath it. The 
inscription is in Persian, with the 
date 1637. S.W. of it, and 2 m. 
S. of the city, is 

The Moii Jhil, or “ Pearl Lake,^’ 
a beautiful spot. Little remmns of 
the palaces at one corner of it, but 
what remains is very picturesque. 
In the Mubarak Manzil, the 
pleasure - garden of the Nawabs, 


a little to the E. of the Moti Jhil, 
there was kept the marble throne 
(now removed for the Victoria 
Memorial Hall at Calcutta) of the 
Nawab Nazim, by taking his seat 
on wliich, as Diwan, Chve notified 
to the Indian world in 1766 the 
cession of the Province of Bengal 
to the E.I. Company, under the 
farman of the Emperor of Delhi, 
Shah Alam, granted on 12th 
August 1765. The lake contains 
a good many crocodiles. 

The Khushbagh, or Garden of 
Happiness,” the old cemetery of 
the Nawabs, is opposite to the 
Moti Jhil on the right bank of the 
river. It consists of three waUed 
enclosures. The entrance to the 
outer one, planted with flowers 
and shady trees, is from the E., 
close to where some ruined ghats 
stretch down to the deserted bed 
of the Bhagirathi, which now 
flows in another channel. In the 
central enclosure are the tombs 
of the good Nawab AH Vardi Khan 
and his nephew and son - in - law 
Suraj-ud-daula. They are almost 
level with the ground, and are 
covered with embroideries. The 
third enclosure contains a tank 
and Musafir Khana (Travellers’ 
House). The Hira (diamond) 
Jhil, where the Mansurganj Palace 
stood, is near the Roskanbagh, 
also on the right bank of the 
river, opposite to the present 
palace. 

The Nizaynat College, or Nawab’s 
Madrasa, which was formerly 
meant exclusively for the relatives 
of the Nawab, has now been 
amalgamated with the Nawab 's 
High School under the name of 
the ” Nawab Bahadur's Institu- 
tion.” This institution is open 
to the pubhc. 

The Cemetery of J*afar Ganj, 
about I m. to the N. of the Palace 
of Murshidabad, is that of the 
Nawabs Nazim appointed by the 
English, and contains a number of 
interesting graves. Opposite the 
gate is a handsome mosque. 

The Murshidabad District is 



ROUTE 23. CALCUTTA TO 

noted for its silk industry. The 
villagers rear the silkworm at 
home, and sell the cocoons to the 
spinners, who export the skeins. 
Silk cloth and handkerchiefs are 
woven here on hand-looms. 

From Murshidabad the railway 
runs on to 

144 m. Lalgola Ghat, on the 
Ganges, whence there is occasional 
steamer service to Rajmahal 
(p. 414). A line from Godagari 
Ghat, on the opposite side of the 
river, runs to {195 m.) Malda 
{p- 415) and (251 m.) ^ Katihar 
(p. 419). 

{d) From Calcutta hy Eastern Ben- 
gal Railway to Darjeeling 
hy Ishurdi, Siliguri, and Kur- 
seong. 

Fares — Rs.50, 7a. 6p., Rs.25, 4a. 
Rs.8, 5a. 9p. Mail train in 21 hrs. 

The train starts from the 
Sealda station (p. 91). 

24 m. Naihati junction for 
Hooghly Junction Bridge (p. 97). 

46 m. Ranaghat junction (D.B.). 
Branch E. for Jessore and Khulna 
and W. to Murshidabad (77 m.). 

103 m. Poradaha junction sta- 
tion. Branch line E, to (52 m.) 
Goalundo Ghat, on the Ganges 
(P- 435)- 

124 m. Ishurdi junction, after 
crossing the Ganges by the new 
bridge, one of the longest bridges 
m the world, named after the late 
Viceroy', Lord Hardinge, who 
opened it. The view from it 
very fine. 

184 m. Santahar junction of 
line to Assam. 

244 ni. Parbatipur junction (R.), 
from whence a line runs E. to 
Kaunia, on the Assam mail route 


DARJEELING: JALPAIGURI 425 

(p. 441), and W. to (88 m.) Katihar 

(p- 419)- 

305 m. Jalpaiguri (R.), Civil 
Station of the Bengal District of 
i the same name. Also a railway' 
j station on the Northern Section 
j of the Eastern Bengal Railway, 
where both the Up and Down 
I Darjeeling Mail touches. 12 
I hours' journey from Calcutta. 
Headquarters station of the Com- 
missioner of the Rajshahi Divi- 
I sion. Contains several European 
j residents, mostly Government 
I ofhcials. The District is famous 
* for its tea cultivation. There 
! are 210 tea grants within the 
; District, which produced 7 1 , 288,62 7 
lbs. of tea during the season 
1915-16. 

Population of the District, ac- 
cording to the last census, 902,660, 
of whom 342 were Europeans. 
Climate fairly healthy during the 
cold weather but malarious during 
the rains. 

Rainfall heavy. Annual rain- 
fall 200 in. in some parts of 
the District and 125 in. in Jalpai- 
guri town itself. No hotels, but 
two D.Bs. furnished, one at the 
Headquarters station of the Ahpur 
Duar Subdivision and the other 
in Jalpaiguri itself. District roads 
mostly unmetalled but sufficiently 
good to allow of motoring in the 
cold season. 

The Bengal Duars Railway runs 
j through the tea-garden areas, com- 
I mencing from Lalmomr Hat in the 
I Rangpur District and terminating 
‘ at ^ladanhat. Branches run from 
j Lataguri station to Ramshai, and 
i from iNIal station to Bagrakote, in 
j the N W. corner of the District. 

The District includes several 
' reserved forests in which rhino, 
elephants, and tigers are to be 
I found. Elephants are especially 
1 plentiful, and considerable num- 
I bers are captured from time to 
: time. 

Exclusive of tea the ordinary 
I crops of the District are rice, jute 
' and tobacco. 



426 ROUTE 23. [d) CALCUTTA TO DARJEELING KURSEOXG li^dul 


32^ m . Siliguri station ( R . , j 

D.B.). I 

From this place to Darjeeling | 
the journey is made by the Hima- \ 
layan Railway on a gauge of 2 ft. | 
The distance is 50 m., and the 
time occupied 6 hrs. Fares — - 

rst Cl. 2nd Cl. 3rd Cl. 
Single: Rs. 19 o 6 Rs 9 83 Rs. 3 15 6 
Retztrn: 28 86 14 46 5i53 

The hne is constructed in the 
most substantial manner, with 
heavy steel rails (40 lb. to the 
yd.). The locomotives, specially 
designed by Messrs Sharpe Sc 
Stewart of Manchester, weigh 
10 tons. The running speed of 
the trains, both up and down, is 
about 12 m. to 13 m. per hour, and 
travellers ascend over 1000 ft. an 
hour. It is worthy of note that 
this is the first work of the kind 
for which the capital required was 
raised entirely in India. 

Travellers are strongly advised to 
have extra warm clothing at hand, 
as the transition of temperature 
from the plains to the mountains 
is sometimes very great. Spec- 
tacles or veils should be used 
against the dust and blacks from 
the engine, especially on the front 
seats of the open carriages, from * 
which the best views are obtained. 
Only hand luggage can be taken 
into the carriages - 

Siliguri was of special interest as 
the base of the expedition of 1904 
into Tibet, Lhasa being 359 m. 
distant by the most direct route. 
A road leads from Siliguri to the 
Teesta Bridge, along which a rail- 
way line on a gauge of 2 ft. passes 
(p. 430), then rises steadily for two 
stages, and finally proceeds as a 
track to Gnatong (12,000 ft.), 83 
m. from the base. Between Gna- 
tong and Chumbi, 20 m. N,, the 
Jeylap La Pass (14,400 ft.) is 
crossed, and 21 m. farther Pari 
Jong is reached. From here the 
direct trade route turns N.E. to 
Lhasa, which is about 200 m. dis- 
tant. The route to Gyantse 
(13,200 ft.) crosses the Tang La 


Pass (16,200 ft.) ; 42 m. farther on 
it crosses the Kharo La Pass 
(16,500 ft.), and then the Khamba 
Pass (16,800 ft.), and finally 
reaches the Chaksam Ferry in 323 
m. Crossing the Tsangpo here 
the route goes up the Kyichu 
Valley to Lhasa, 359 m., 12,300 ft. 
above sea-level. 

At Sookna station, 7 m. from 
Siliguri, the cars begin to ascend. 
The turns are very sharp, and at 
each a fresh landscape of surpass- 
mg beauty is opened out. The 
sides of the mountain are clothed 
with lofty trees and masses of 
jungle, with graceful tree-ferns in 
the ravines at the higher altitudes. 
At about 15 m. the cars pass round 
a spur which projects from the 
mountain, and the line runs on the 
edge of a precipice of 1000 ft 
Farther up the hne threads an 
extraordinary loop. 

At (19I- m.) Tindharia (R-) the 
railw^ay workshops are situated, 
2822 ft. above sea-level. At (25^ 
m.) the Pagla Jhora is a large 
w^ater-course, passing under the 
line from above. Much money 
has been spent in maintaining the 
line, as the hillside at this point 
is continually sinking down. 

Breakfast can be taken at ( 3 - 
m.) Kurseong station (R., D.B ) ^ 
there are tea-gardens here, vuth 
European managers and medical 
men residing on them. Kurseong 
is 5000 ft. above sea-level. Those 
who stray off the main paths iu 
damp weather must take precau- 
tions against the leeches, which 
are numerous. At Kurseong the 
tram halts half an hour while a 
late breakfast or lunch is served 
at the principal hotel. The old 
Punkabari road crosses the railway 
here, zigzags up the hill for nearly 
2000 ft., and runs tojor Bungalow, 
nearly parallel to the railway. 
This IS one of the prettiest# ride*^ 
in the 1 district. A little above 
Kurseong is the Jesuit Trainmg 




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ROUTE 2 


KURSEONG DARJEELING 


:>* 

College ; and near Kurseong are 
the Dowhill and St Helen’s Schools 
for girls, and the Victoria School for 
boys : 2m. from Kurseong is the 
Goethals School, established by the 
In^li Brothers. 

At 40 m, is Sonada Brewery. 

At 45 m, is Jor Bungalow, a 
collection of shops and huts on the 
narrow ridge or saddle which 
joins Ahe Darjeeling spur to the , 
Senciial Hill. At Jor Bungalow 
the road to Kalimpong branches ; 
ott , there are also roads to the 
Darjeeling Golf-course, near Tiger 
Uill, to the Darjeeling Water- , 
works, and to the Kattapahar and ' 
Jdlapahar Cantonments. A short 
distance from Jor Bungalow is ' 
Ghoom station, whence the main 
road to the Nepal frontier starts. , 
Near Ghoom station the Auckland ; 
road to Darjeeling joins the ! 
railway road. Ghoom station is I 
the highest point on the railway, 
7407 tt. About V m. from it, just 
above the road to the Nepal Iron- 
tier, IS the Buddhist monastery 
ot the Yellow Sect, constructed by 
Lama Sherab Gyantso, near which 
IS the interesting Buddhist burn- 
nig-ghat. From Ghoom, the tram 
rims downhill to Darjeeling, which 
IS reached witliin half an hour. 

Rickshaws, dandies, and ponies ^ 
can be hired just outside the j 
Darjeeling Railway Station, and 
the Railway Company send up 
passengers’ luggage to any part 
of the town. The rates are— -Rs i , 

S as. for a rickshaw, Rs.i. 4 as. lor 
a dandy, 8 as. for a ponv. 

51 m. Darjeeling ^ (place or town 
of the thunderbolt). The beauty 
0/ its situation, upon a ridge high 
(about 7000 ft.) above the bed of 
Great Ranjit River, the moun- 
tain-side scattered over with villas 
and bungalows, and the colossal 
background of Himalayan giants 
towering above it, together witli 

* K\ciy One visiting Darjeeling should 
Douglas Freshtield’s Round 
h incktnjanga. 


4^7 

its moderate temperature, which 
neither exceeds in summer nor 
falls below 30° in winter, tend to 
make Darjeeling a most agreeable 
residence, and have rendered it 
the most important sanatorium of 
Bengal The temperature aver- 
ages 2® above that of London all 
the year round. 

From Darjeeling the highest 
Mountain Feaks in the w^orld can 
be seen. Of these the loftiest is 
Alount Everest, 29,002 ft., visible 
from Tiger Hi I! (a 6-m. ride from 
Darjeeling) or from Jalapahar, 
the mihtary Cantonment, though 
the distance is at least 120 m. 
The other peaks seen from Dar- 
jeeling or Jalapahar are — the 
magnificent array of the Kinchin- 
janga peaks (2.3,156 tt. high and 
45 m. distant) , to the W. ot these, 
Kabru (24,015 ft.) and Jannu 
(25,304 ft.) : to the E. of them, 
Pandim (22,017 ft.), with Jubanu 
(19,450 ft.) in front of it, and only 
35 m. distant ; and farther E. 
again the fine snowy peak of 
Siaolchun (22,270 ft ). Much of 
the surface of the highest peaks 
is too sheer for snow to lie upon it. 

The view of unri^'alled Mountain 
Scenery is unspeakably grand, and 
there are man\' viervb, and par- 
ticularly that of Kinchmjanga. 
which impress the mind more and 
more every time that they are 
seen Too often, unfortunately, 
clouds veil the highest peaks for 
davs together, and there is no 
certainty of an unclouded view of 
Kmchinjanga in the cold weather, 
though such views are often 
obtained, especially after rain. 
When the clouds roll away, and 
display the bare granite summits, 
the eye looks over the lofty hills 
and across a vast chasm to the line 
of perpetual snow*, about 17,000 ft. 
high, on the side of the stupendous 
Kinchinjanga. Above that rise^ 
a glittering white wall, and then 
it seems as if the skv were rent 
and the view is closed by enormous 
masses of bare rock. There is one 
special feature in the summit of 



42^5 ROUTE 23. [d) CALCUTTA TO DARJEELING India 


Kinchinjanga, and that is a lofty 
wall of granite of prodigious 
breadth, which appears to divide 
the summit into two portions 
The effect is much more striking 
than if it were one great mass of 
snow. The extraordinary gran- 
deur of this scene is heightened by 
the colouring given to it by the 
rising and setting sun or by the 
moon 


The District cf Darjeeling (popu- 
lation 265,5^0) is divided into 
two portions — the N, is from 4000 
tt. to 9000 ft. above the sea-level ; 
the S , or Moyang, consists of the 
spurs of the first range of the 
Himalayas and the plains thence ; 
to the District of Rangpur. ■ 
Mountains which rise to between 
12,000 ft. and 13,000 ft. divide it 1 
from Xepai, When Dr Campbell 
took charge, in 1839, there were 
only twenty families in the whole j 
district ; he remained Superinten- 
dent for twenty-two vears, built 
the bazar, the cutcherry, and ■ 
church, made roads, and estab- ' 
lished a convalescent depot at 
Jalapahar, the ^lilitayy Canton- 
ment S of Darjeeling. 

Darjeeling suffered severely ; 
from the earthquake of 1S97 and . 
the great storm of September 1899. ' 
On the Mall is the bandstand 
and a drinking fountain erected to 
the memory of Sir Ashley Eden, ‘ 
Lieutenant-Governor 1S77-S2. 
Xear this are some pretty gardens ' 
and the Eden Sanaiortuni or Con- 
valescent Hospital — a most con- 
spicuous building, in the charge i 
of the Clewer Sisters. 

Above the Secretariat is St 
Andyew’<i Chuyeh, the foundation- 
stone of which was laid by Bishop 
Milman in 1870. 

The old Church dated from 1843. I 
There are tablets m it to George j 
W. Aylmer Lloyd, C.B , Lieu ten- ' 
ant-General H.M. s Bengal Army, 
who died at Darjeeling 1805, aged 
76. To Ills inriuence witli the , 
Xiaja of Sikhim Bengal is indebted i 


for this Sanatorium. Another 
tablet runs — 

In Mem or iam 

Charlotte. Countes*^ C v.vning, 
November 1S62. 

There are also a Union Chapel 
in Auckland Road, the Scotch 
Kirk (St Coiumba's), and nine 
other places of Christian w*arship. 
About \ m. beyond the Church 
is Government House, the large 
and comfortable residence of the 
Governor of Bengal, \vho spends 
May and June, September and 
October here. St Paul’s and St 
Joseph's Schools are large estab- 
lishments ; til ere are also the 
Diocesan Girls’ High School, the 
Lore t to Convent School for girls, 
and Queen’s Hill School for girls, 
besides several private schools. 
Near tile Secretariat, and below 
the Victoria Plea.sance Park, is a 
iNIuseuiu containing fine collec- 
tions of buttcrilie'^', moths, wasps, 
and ants 

The principal Bazar is in the 
centre of the town ; on Saturdays 
and Sundays it is so thronged 
by picturesque natives from all 
parts — Lepchas, Limbus, Bhutias, 
Tibetans, Nepalese, Paharias, Ben- 
galis, Kashmins, and Europeans — 
that it is difficult to make way 
through them. 

The top of tiie ridge above the 
church is called by the Buddhists 
Dor-je-ling-gang, or the hill of the 
thunderbolt town, known as the 
Observatory Hill, as it has a G.T. 
station preserved. It evas once 
crowned by a Buddhist monastery, 
on the summit of the hill, con- 
structed by Lama Dor-je Legdenla: 
there are remains of the hallowed 
associations of that monastery. 
At this holy site Buddhists offer 
prayers, ring bells, beat tom-toms, 
and make propitiatory offerings. 
The centre oi the shrine is of stone, 
engraved with Buddhist gods and 
deities, surrounded by bamboo 
poles, from which flutter paper of 
different colours, and cloth prayer 



^29 


ROUTE 23. DARJEELING EXCURSIONS 


lldgs printed with the horses of 
wind and prayers for Inch. Some 
way below the ridge on the E . side 
is an interesting Buddhist C hoy ten, 
or chaitya, and a Buddhist monas- 
terv of the Red Sect of a distinctly 
Tibetan t^'pe in the picturesque 
village of the Bhutia Basti. It is 
worthy of a visit, not only on 
account of the temple, but also to 
aee the lull people who inhabit the 
small village. The Birch Hill 
Public Park for picnics and views is 
a little over a mile from the railway 
station. The Victoria Falls are 
Worth seeing, near Rosebank, the 
rc-idence of the ^laharaja of 
Bard wan. 

The Botanical Crardens at Kan- 
£arun contained an interesting 
collection of trees and plants 
peculiar to the Himalayas, but 
they have been given up, and the 
Botanical Gardens are now im- 
mediately below the Eden Sana- 
torium, on its \V. side. Besides 
tiees, there are collections of ferns 
and orchids. 

The chief industrv of the Dar- 
jeehng District is the cultivation 
and manufacture of Tea. The 
date of its commencement is 1S56, 
when the first tea - garden was 
opened. There are now about 
157, covering an area of some 
34,024 acres actually under tea 
cultivation, and 78,227 acres 
which have been taken up by 
planters but not yet planted out. 
Xo less than one-thi|'d of the popu- 
lation reside on tire tea-gardens. 
The manufacture and cultivation 
employ a labour force amounting 
(according to the census of 1911) 
53^^00 coolies. The output is 
over 20.303,591 lb. 

There is not much game to be 
had in the immediate neighbour- 
hood of Darjeeling, but to the 
able pedestrian, the botanist, the 
lover of the pictures<^iie, there 
are endless excursions. 


(i) A good rider, or strong 
Alpine climber, may make an 


! interesting expedition of four days 
by Tongiu to phallut, 49 lU. 
in the direction of the snows. 
Coolies, laden, should do 12 m. 
a-day in the hills. The charge for 
a coolie is about 8 as. a-day; the 
load is from 40 lb to 60 lb. The 
distances are to — 

Jorpokri (7400 ft.), 12^ m. 

Toyiglii (10,074 

Sandakphii (11,929 ft.), 14 m. 

Saharkum (11,684 ft.). 

Phalliit (ri,Sii ft.), I2|m. 

The views are magnificent. 
There is a §(ood D.B. at each 
of these places except Sabarkum. 
Provisions and bedding must be 
, taken. Passes for the bungalows 
at these places must be obtained 
(at 8 as. a-day for each person) from 
1 the Deputy-Commissioner's office 
! between ii a. 11. and 4 p.m. A 
copv of his official Notice regard- 
ing the bungalows and other 
details should be obtained. 

(2) Another very favourite and 
interesting excursion is to the 
Bridge over the Great Ranjit River, 
Oooo ft below. A fair road has 

■ been made, by which the whole 
descent can be easily performed on 
ponies, the distance by the road 
being 1 1 m The zones of vegeta- 

i tion are clearly marked, first by 

■ the oak, chestnut, and magnolia, 

’ which grow from 10,000 ft. to 
' 7000 ft. ; secondly, below 6500 
I ft., by the Alsophila gigantea, or 
: tree-fern (to be seen from the 
Himalayas to the Malayan Penin- 
' sula, in Java and Ceylon) ; thirdly, 

! bv the Calamus and Plectocomia 
' palms (6500 ft. is the upper limit 
of palms in Sikhim) ; fourthly, 
by the wild plantain, which in a 
, lower elevation is replaced by a 
I larger kind. At 1000 ft. below 
, Darjeeling is a fine wooded spur 
called Lehong, where English fruit- 
trees flourish, and the tea-plant 
I also succeeds admirably . at 
i Lebong is the Cantonment for 
European soldiers, with a large 
parade ground, also used as an 
arena for g\Tnkhanas. Below is 
0 



430 ROUTE 23. CALCUTTA TO SIKHIM Ifldta 


the village of Ging, surrounded by 
slopes cultivated principally with 
tea, also with rice, maize, and 
millet. Above the Ging village 
there is a Buddhist monastery of 
the Zok-chen-pa Red Sect, a 
branch of the great Pamiongchi 
monastery of Sikhim. 

At 6 m. from Darjeehng are the 
Badamtam Tea-garden and a 
R.H, ; at 2 m. below again, a view 
may be had of the beautiful sus- 
pension bridge over the Ranjit 
River, which leads to Sikhim, 

At 10 m. from Darjeeling is 
the junction of the Kanjit w%th the 
Ranguu. The Ranjit’s foaming 
stream runs through a dense 
forest. From the opposite direc- 
tion the Rangnu comes tearing 
down from the top of Senchal, 
7000 ft. above. Its roar is heard 
and its course is visible, but its 
channel is so deep that the stream 
itself is nowhere seen. 

Farther down is the junction of 
the Ranjit with the Teesta, which is 
sea - green and muddy, while the 
Great Ranjit is dark green and 
very clear. The Teesta is much 
the broader, deeper, and more 
rapid. This expedition will take 
two days. 

If time permits and the weather 
is favourable, it is well worth 
following the Teesta Valley down 
to Siliguri by rail (see p. 426) 
instead of returning by train from 
Darjeeling. 


(3) Senchal, 8610 ft., is clearly 
seen from Jalapahar, and is about 
6 m. off. It used to be a depot for 
European troops, but was aban- 
doned on account of its climate 
and the effect on the troops. The 
water for Darjeeling is taken in 
pipes from the Senchal springs. 
An expedition may be made to it, 
starting early in the morning. It 
is comparatively easy of access, 
and from Jalapahar the path along 
the ridge of the mountains may be 
seen. This path abounds in rare 
and beautiful plants, and traverses 


magnificent forests of oak, mag- 
nolia, and rhododendron. 

Nearly thirty ferns may be 
. gathered on this excursion in the 
autumn. Grasses are very rare 
i in these woods, except the dwarf 
bamboo. 

{4) Darjeeling is lit by electric 
' light, and an interesting trip may 
; be made to the electric power 
I station, 3000 ft, below the town, 
on the W. side of the spur. The 
I distance is about 5 m., and a 
, tea-garden is passed through on 
1 the way. 

I From Darjeeling any one look- 
j ing at the snowy range of the 
i Himalayas to the N. cannot help 
I seeing Sikhim, with its lower 
j ranges of mountains rising irregu- 
I larly to the greater heights. Some 
I account of this interesting country 
! and its attractions, and the routes 
i available, may be useful to 
i travellers. 

i 

i S ikhim , 

I The Native State of Sikhim 
j fSukhim or “ New-house,” (in 
Tibetan, Den-jong, or “the rice 
country ”), situated to the N. of the 
Darjeeling District, has an area of 
2818 sq. m., and in 1911 had a 
population of 87,920 persons — 
chiefly Brahmanic Hindus (58,675) 

I and Buddhists (28,915), also 285 
Christians anfi 44 Musalmans. 
Gangtok (5800 ft.), the residence of 
the Maharaja and the Political 
Officer, is the capital. The present 
I Maharaja Tashi Namgyal, C.I-E-> 

I is the youngest son of Maharaja 
I Sir Thutob Namgyal, K.C.I.E. : he 
succeeded his half-brother, Maha- 
: raja Sidkeong Namgy^al, C.I.E., in 
j December 1914 : he is unmarried, 
j and twenty-four years old. 

^ There are, in Sikhim, only 315 
t villages and 16,733 occupied 
houses. The high mountains, as 
viewed from Darjeeling, have been 
described above (p. 427), but the 











ROUTE 23. SIKHIM 


431 


lower hills also contain much 
beautiful scenery, and possess 
features of special value for all 
who take delight in Alpine trav'el, 
or are interested in the pursuit of 
botanical studies, butterflies, and 
some branches of zoology (reptiles, 
birds, mammals). “Sikhim^ is 
the most humid District in the 
whole range of the Himalayas 
because of its proximity to the Bay 
oi Bengal and direct exposure 
to the effects of the moisture- 
laden S.W. monsoon. ... It is 
estimated to contain about 4000 
species of flo'wering plants under 
TOO natural orders ; also 250 ferns 
and their allies, of which eight are 
tree-ferns ” It has also 660 re- 
corded species of orchids, 20 of 
juilms, and about 23 of bamboos 
Ihe flora and the trees vary 
according to the three zones— the 
'Subtropical from 700 ft. to 1500 ft 
elevation, the temperate from 1500 
ft. to 11,500 ft,, the Alpine from 
11.500 ft. to 18,000 ft. Butterflies 
are extremely abundant, distri- 
buted among about 600 species ; 
the moths are estimated at 7000 
species. 

The 44 monasteries present 
objects of interest to students of 
religions and lovers of the pic- 
turesque. Lamaism, or Tibetan 
Buddhism (a mixture of orthodox 
Buddhism with a preponderating 
amount of mythology, mysticism, 
and magic), is the State religion 
ot Sikhim, professed by a large 
number of the inhabitants The 
Lamas, numbering about 1200, 
constitute the clergy. The prin- 
cipal monasteries are — -(i) San- 
gachelling ; (2) Pamiongchi ; (3) 
lashiding ; (4) Phodang, at Tum- 
^^ng ; (3) Rhumtek, 8 m Iroin 

^angtok. The country contains 
3 -lso many gompas, some of which 
are retreats for isolated monks, 
jMiile others are temples for the vil- 
lages. Many chortens (cenotaphs in 
niemory of Buddha or canonised 
saints) are met with, and meii- 

1 l^npertal Gazetteer, i, i6o 


dongs, or low' prayer- walls, faced 
, with blocks bearing the mystic 
sentence om mani padnie hum. 

' The abnormal rainfall of Sikhim, 
; amounting to 30 in. annually 
in the dry upper valleys, but 
reaching to 250 in. and over in 
i many other parts, renders travel- 
' hng arduous and disagreeable 
' during the monsoon months ; 
j though the rain-water runs ofi 
j the sloping roads and paths, the 
; rivers are sw^ollen (as they also 
are when the higher snow's melt) 
and the atmosphere is laden with 
, clouds and moisture. Travelling 
i in Sikhim should therefore be 
: undertaken before and alter the 
, rainv season, except by people 
I washing to climb the snow'-moun- 
‘ tains, for them the rainy season 
, is the best, and, indeed, the only 
! time. 

The main route into Sikhim is 
via Siliguri and the cart-road 
alongside the course of the Teesta 
Riverto Rungpo,and up the course 
01 the R.ani River to Gangtok. 
The Darjeeling Himalayan Rail- 
w'ay extension from Sihguri has 
been completed as far as Teesta 
Bridge below' Kalimpong. 

From Darjeeling Sikhim can be 
entered bv four routes — (fl) to 
Phalli! t (already mentioned) and 
on to Chiabhanjan, thence North- 
wards to Yampung, Jongri, and 
the snow'- line, or Eastw'ards to 
Dentam and the monasteries 
(i, 2, 3, above) ; (6) by the iron 
suspension bridge over the Rum- 
mam River, below' Darjeeling, to 
Chakang, N. of and near to that 
river, and to the same monas- 
teries , (c) by the iron suspension 
bridge at Manjitar, over the Great 
Ranjit,to Namclii, Temi, Gangtok, 
and on to Tumlong ; {d) by 

Pashoke and the Teesta suspen- 
sion bridge to Kalimpong (a small 
tow'n, with an English Church), 
Rissum, Pedong, and Rhenok, 
where the road bifurcates, one 
leading N. to Pakhyong and Gang- 
tok, the other N.E. to Chumbi, 
in Tibet, via Sedonchen, Lingtu, 



432 


ROUTE 23. CALCUTTA TO SIKHIM 


India 


and the Jeylap Pass. From the 
Jeylap t±ie other passes- — the 
Nathu-la, Yakla, and Cho-la — into 
Tibet can be visited ; the scenery 
is grand. 

From Gangtok the track is con- 
tinued Northwards to Toong and 
Cheungtong, where it divides into 
the Lachen and Lachung valleys. 
The path up the Lachen leads to 
Tangu, Giao Gong, and the Kon- 
gralama and Serpuba passes into 
Tibet ; by the Lachung to the 
Ghora-la and Donkya-la. 

These routes are further indi- 
cated in the follo%ving statement. 
On them all there are D.Bs. in 
charge of chaukidars (custodians). 
There are four beds in each bung- 
alow, and the simplest furniture, 
but no food-supply can be relied 
on (though chickens, eggs, and 
milk may be obtainable), so that 
provisions and bedding must 
invariably be taken for excursions 
into Sikhim. The country is so 
sparsely inhabited, and the travel- 
ler is so dependent on coolies for 
transport, that no journey should 
be undertaken in Sikhim without 
previous communication with the 
Deputy-Commissioner of Darjeel- 
ing or the Political Officer in 
Sikhim (address Gangtok, vid 
Siliguri) . 

Routes into and in Sikhim. 

(D.B. =Dak Bungalow, 

My. = Monaster>^) 

Route 1, 

There is a railway as well as a 
cart-road from Siliguri to the 
Teesta Bridge, and from the 
Teesta Bridge to {a) Gangtok, (h) 
near Pedong. 

Siliguri (D.B.) . . i6|^m.to 

Kalijhora (D.B.) . 54 ,, 

Berrik (D.B.) . . 4I ,, 

Riang (D.B) . . 5I ,, 

Teesta Bridge (D.B.). 


Route II. 


Darjeehng . . . 14 m. to 

Lop^iiu (D.B.) . . 4J ,, 

Pashoke (D.B.) . . 4 ,, 

Teesta Bridge (D.B.) . 3 

Melli (D.B.) . . II 

Rungpo (D.B.) . • 5 

Sankokola (D.B.) . 7 ,, 

Shamdong (D.B.) . 12 

Gangtok (D.B.) . . 13 ,, 

Raiotdong (D.B.) .11 ,, 

Singhik (D.B.) . . g „ 

Toong (D.B.) . • 5 


Cheungtong (My., D.B.). 

From — 

Cheungtong (My., D.B.) 

(а) 12 m. to Lamteng (D.B.), 

13 ,, *Tangu (D.B.)., 

(б) 10 m. to *Lachung (D.B.), 
13 m. to Yumtang. 

From Gangtok to Tumlong (and 
no farther), g m. 

* Tents are required beyond Tangu and 
Lachun;^. 


Route III, 

Teesta Bridge (D.B.). 10 m. to 

(7 m. by bridle-path) 

Kalimpong (D.B.) . 12 m. to 

Rissum (D.B.) 7 m. to'| 

Labah . 2 ,, I Branch to the 

Pashiting (a forest j Buars. 
bungalow here), j 

From — 

Kalimpong (D.B.) . 12 m. to 

Pedong (D.B.) 

Rhenok (D.B.) 

Pakhyong 

(D.B.) 10 m. to 

Gangtok (D.B.) 

From — 

Rhenok (D.B.) . . 3 m. to 

Ari (D.B.) . . . 4 

Rongh (D.B.) . . 8 „ 

Sedonchen (D.B.) . 9 ,, 

Gnatong (D.B.) . • $ 

*Kupup (D.B.) . . 10 

* 16 m. to Chumbs. 


• 5 » 

• 9 .. 

Junction Road 
to Gangtok. 



ROUTE 23. SIKHIM ROUTES. 


433 


Changu (D.B.) 
Champithang 
(D.B.) . II m. to 
Chumbi 

131 „ 

Gyantse. 

From — 

Changu (D.B.) . 

Karponang (D.B.) 
Gangtok (D.B.). 


. 12 m. to , 

i. i 

> into Tibet 


9 m. to 
9 


Route I F. , 

Darjeeling . . . i2im. to I 

Jorpokri (D.B.) . .10“ 

Tonglu (D.B.) . - 14 ;; 

Sandakohu (D.B.) 12^- ' 

Phalluf (D.B.) , . 17“ " ‘ 

Dentam (D.B.) . . 10 ” 

Pamiongchi (My., D.B.) 10 " ' 

ihnchinpong (My., D B.) ii 
Uiakang (D.B.) . 13I | 

Darjeeling. " - 

fThere is a direct road from ' 
Dentam (13 m.) to Kinchin- ' 
pong (My., D.B.). j 


Alternative Route 


Pamiongchi (My., D.B ) 
Keuzing (D.B.) . 

Temi (D.B.) . * 

-Vamchi (My., D.B ) 
Hanjitar (D.B.) . ] 

Padamtam (D.B.) 
Darjeeling. 


10 m. to 

io 

10 ,, 

7 


7 i 


Commissioner ot Darjeeling ; for 
the Darjeeling bungalows, by 
the Deputy-Commissioner of Dar- 
jeeling ; for certain Darjeeling 
bungalows, by the Executive 
Engineer, P.W.D., Darjeeling. 

A separate pass must be ob- 
tained for each occupant for each 
bungalow, whether going or re- 
turning. 

Fees . — Eight annas for each 
person for occupation during the 
day, ^up to a maximum charge of 
Rs.S. One rupee per night for 
each occupant. (For Badamtam, 
Senchal, Kangarun, 4 as. each by 
day ; maximum, Ks.4.) 

Fees are payable in advance 
to the Deputy - Commissioner or 
Executive Engineer, on the sub- 
mission of the application for the 
pass. 

Government ofheers on duty arc 
allowed to occupy the bungalows 
111 the Darjeeling District free 
ot charge. In Sikhim they are 
charged full rates if they pccupy 
for more than seven days. 

Details as to Fees, Furniture, 
Provisions , Servants, Tours, and 
Rates are fully set out in the 
official Xotice regarding travel- 
lers' bungalows in Sikhim and 
the Darjeeling District, obtainable 
from the Deputy-Commissioner 01 
Darjeeling. 


From — 

Teirn (D B,), (by an iron 
suspension bridge 
over the Teesta) . ii 

Song (D.B.) . D 14 " 

Gangtok. 

^ carry a pass, and 

beyond the Dar- 
ijv nre issued 

barjeeUng ' Commissioner, 

onk^®t bungalows are available 
PasLc ; with 

l>uneairi the Sikhim 

in ifllh-''®' Political Officer 

Sikhmj or by the Deputy- 



434 


ROUTE 24. I. EASTERN BENGAL. II. ASSAM 


ROUTE 24. 

I. EASTERN BENGAL. 

II. ASSAM. 

CALCUTTA to Goalundo ; (i) 

Narainganj, Dacca, (2} Chand- 
pur, Cnittag’ong', Cacliar, 
Sylliet, OauUati, (3) Coocii, 
Bebar, DHubri, Gauhati. 

Assam was under the Lieuten- 
ant-Governor of Bengal until, in 
1^74 " 5 . tEe Districts of the 
Brahmaputra Valley and the 
adjacent hills, with Cachar and 
Sylhet, were constituted a separate 
Province under a Chief Commis- 
sioner, It so remained until, on 
the partition of Bengal from i6th 
October 1905, the new Province 
of Eastern Bengal and Assam was 
created, with a population of 
31 milhons (18 millions being 
Muhammadans) under a Lieuten- 
ant-Governor. This arrangement 
held only until, on ist April 1912, 
the Eastern Bengal Districts were 
rejoined to Bengal (to form the 
Governorship of Bengal), and the 
old Province of Assam was recon- 
stituted, with twelve Districts and 
one Native State, under a Chief 
Commissioner (lately Sir Archdale 
Earle). The area administered by 
him covers a surveyed area of 
61,723 sq. m., and the unsurveyed 
country of the Eastern Angamis 
and Sernas, which was added to 
the Naga Hills since 1901, a tract 
containing 40,000 people. The 
total population of the present 
Assam Province in 1911 was 
7>959.857>9'^i of whom are in British 
Districts, except 346,222 persons 
in the Manipur State. This 
population included 3,838,769 
Hindus; 1,901,032 Muhamma- 
dans ; 66,562 Christians ; and 
1,239,280 Animists. 


Indi^ 

‘ ‘ Assam owes its importance to 
its situation on the N.E. frontier 
of India. It is surrounded by 
mountainous ranges on three sides 
— on the N. are the Himalayas, 
shutting off the table-lands of 
Bhutan and Tibet ; on the N.E. 
is a series of hills which form a 
barrier between the Upper Brah- 
maputra Valley and the more or 
less independent Mongolian tribes 
who live W. of the boundary of 
China ; on the E, and S. lie the 
hills which march with those 
forming the limits of the Province 
of Burma and the State of Hill 
Tippera ; on the W. lies the Pro- 
vince of Bengal, on to the huge 
plains of which debouch the tw^o 
valleys of the Brahmaputra and 
the Surma, which form the plains 
of Assam. These two valleys are 
separated from each other by the 
Assam range, wLich projects west- 
ward from the hills on the Eastern 
border. The physical features of 
the Province are full of variety. 
The valley of the Brahmaputra, 
otherwise known as the Assam 
valley, on the N. is an alluvial plain 
about 450 m. in length and 50 m. in 
average breadth, so that one never 
loses sight of the hills on either 
side. Of the two Districts of the 
Surma Valley, Cachar forms the 
Eastern angle, and contains one 
subdivision in the hills, while 
Sylhet is so wide and flat that, 
except in the extreme N. and S., 
the appeamnce of the country 
recalls the plains of Bengal. 
Mongolian influences are present 
everywhere, except in the greater 
part of Sylhet. Throughout the 
plains communication was, and is 
still to a great extent, mainly by 
water in the rains, when tlie 
flooded Brahmaputra and Sunna 
rise and cover the lowlands. 
Hindus are twice as numerous as 
Muhammadans, who are mostly 
found in the Surma Valley, and 
more than three times as numerous 
as Animists, of whom nearly ^ 
million and a quarter were cen- 
sused. mainly in the hills and the 







435 


ROUTE 24. (l) CALCUTTA— GOALUNDO— DACCA 


Brahmaputra Valley. In language 
there is perhaps more diversity on 
the Eastern frontier than exists in 
any other part of India, and the 
Khasis possess a tongue the 
nearest affinities of which are as 
far distant as Cambodia and 
Assam. The discovery that the 
tea-plant was indigenous in both 
valleys has led to the exploita- 
tion of their waste areas by 
European capital, and it has 
been truly said that Dibrugarh, 
at the upper end of the Brah- 
maputra Valle3% is more like a 
colony than India in its large 
European population and the 
extent of their industrial enter- 
prise.'’ (Assam Keport, 1912, of 
the census of 19 ri.) 

A combined visit to Eastern 
Bengal, the Sylhet and Cachar 
Valleys and Assam is best made 
by the route by E.B. Railway to 
Goalundo, and thence by (i) 
steamer to Narainganj ; or (2) 
Chandpur routes belov'. A \asit 
to Assam onlj^ or a combined 
visit to Darjeeling and Assam, 
will be more comfortably accom- 
plished by the E.B. Railway route 
by Parbatipur junction, Kaunia, 
Gitaldaha, and Gokalganj, route 
(3). The “ through ” river ser- 
vices, once the only means ol 
approach to all ports of Assam, 
have now been superseded by- the 
railways for the purposes of all 
ordinary travellers. 


(1) Calcutta to Dacca via Goalundo 
and Narainganj. 

[For the journey from Calcutta 
to Poradaha junction station 
(103 m.) see p. 425.] 


150 m. Goalundo Ghat station, 
the terminus of the Eastern Bengal 
Railway, is about 10 m. S. of the 
junction of the Ganges and Brah- 
maputra Rivers, which below this 
point are called first the Padma, 


1 and then the IMeghna River, and 
form a body of water so wide 
j across that in the centre the low 
I shores are scarcely visible. 

Goalundo has no permanent 
buildings, as the river-banks at 
' this point have lor many years 
, past changed constantly, and the 
i river floods have destroyed every- 
thing that has been built. 

" About ;^T 30,000 had been 
spent upon these protective works, 

[ and it was hoped that engineering 
j skill had conquered the violence 
j of the Gangetic floods. But in 
August 1875 the solid masonry 
1 spurs, the railway station, and the 
■ magistrates’ court, were all swept 
away, and deep water covered 
their site. A new Goalundo ter- 
minus had to be erected 2 m. 
inland from the former river bank ’ ’ 
I (Hunter). 

I There are plenty of native boats 
at Goalundo, and a regular daily 
service by steamer in 6 hrs. to phrs. 
to Narainganj (104 m. for Dacca) ; 
and to Chandpur for Chittagong 
and Assam by railway, in 7 hrs. 


' Dacca (23^ 43' N. and 90° 24' E.), 
a city with a population in 1911 ol 
108,152, lies on the N. bank of the 
j Buriganga River, along which it ex- 
! tends for nearly 4 m. from beyond 
the Lai Bagh on the \V. to the sus- 
> pension bridge over the Dholai 
I Khal (Creek) on the E., presenting 
an imposing river frontage. From 
I Calcutta it IS 254 m. distant, the 
journey being done partly by rail 
! and partly by river steamer, or by 
; steamer all the way vid the Sunder^- 
; bans, a trip worth taking. The 
, city IS also connected by rail 
j through Mymensingh with Dar- 
jeeling and Assam. 

Along the central portion of the 
river front runs a fine promenade, 
called the Buckland Bund, after 
iMr C. T. Buckland, who was Com- 
missioner, 1862-67, Behind it are 
the palace of the Nawabs of Dacca, 
on the site wLere the French 
factory stood, and the town resid- 



436 


India 


ROUTE 24. (l) CALCUTTA TO DACCA 


dices ot many 01 Uie eiuei zamm- 
dars of the district. Here, too, 
within a short tiistance, are many 
important buildings, the Bank, 
the Commissioner’s othce (which 
was once the European Club), the 
Collegiate School (formerly Dacca 
College), on the site of the English 
factory, the Courts and Govern- 
ment cutcherries, the Enghsh 
Church, the Baptist ^Ession build- 
ings and the Koman Cathohc 
Cathedral, At the Sadar Ghat on 
the Buckland Bund stands an 
ancient cannon. Tradition has it 
that this IS a male gun, " Kale 
Jham Jham,” whose mate, Bibi 
Mariam, lies at the bottom of the 
river, and calls to him every night, 
and thus causes the mysterious 
sound known as the “ Barisal 
guns.” A broad road runs due X. 
from the Sadar Ghat to the new 
Civil Station of Kamna. The 
Bara (great) Katra, a large building 
of fine architecture, stands on the 
bank of the river, which it faces 
with a striking front. It was 
built in 1644 by the Dewan Mir 
Abdul Kasim, and seems to have 
been intended for a royal resid- 
ence. From the roof an interest- 
ing view of the city and river is to 
be had. About 100 yds. E. of 
this is the Chhota (little) Katra, 
built by Shaista Khan in 1663. 

S.E. of these buildings is the 
Mitford Hospital, on the site of the 
Dutch factory. A short distance 
to the K.W. is the most pictures- 
que monument of Dacca, the Lai 
Bagh fort, built by Muhammad 
Azim, third son of Aurangzeb, when 
Viceroy of Bengal, in 1678, but 
left unfinished. Aurangzeb after- 
w^ards gave it as a Jagir to Shaista 
Khan, whose daughter. Pari Bibi, 
lies buried in a tomb within 
the fort. Here, in 1857, some 
companies of Indian Infantry, 
having become disaffected, were 
attacked and defeated by sailors 
of the Indian Kavy, helped by the 
Dacca Volunteers. 

Amongst many other interesting 
monuments at Dacca are : the 


Husauh Dalan^ built by Mir Murad 
in 1 042. Here the Muharram is 
celebrated annually with intense 
fervour. The Te)Hple of Dhakes- 
ivan, the most famous Hindu 
shrine in these parts. The Sat 
Ganbaz (seven domes) mosque, 
some 6 m. W. of Dacca, said to 
have been built by Shaista Khan, 
with the Sat Gumbaz Mausoleum 
100 yds. E. of it, containing two 
tombs, where two of his daughters 
are said to be buried. 

Mhen the Generals of Akbar con- 
quered Eastern Bengal in i575> 
the capital of the province was 
at Sonargaon, some 20 m. E. of 
Dacca, where there are still many 
interesting ruins. In the reign of 
Jaliangir the capital was trans- 
ferred to Dacca, by the Governor. 
Islam Khan, grandson of Shaikh 
Salim Chishti. The English fac- 
tors settled here first in 1666, and 
not long afterwards were subjected 
to great oppression by the Gov- 
ernor, Shaista Khan, nephew ot 
the Empress Kur Jahan ; a hun- 
dred years later their countrymen 
were masters of the whole country. 
Their factory was near the old 
Government College. In 1704 
the Court moved to Murshidabad, 
and the glory of Dacca grew dun, 
until in 1905 it revived, but only 
lor a few' ^'ears, when Dacca be- 
came the capital of the new pro- 
\ince of Eastern Bengal and 
Assam, and European officials 
gradually left the old town for the 
new quarter of Kamna, where 
many fine buildings, including two 
Secretariats and two Government 
Houses, of which the second has 
never been used, were erected. 
Kamna, N. and W., of the old city, 
IS a breezy open place, wuth many 
trees, and a breeze w'hich rarely 
fails to blow. There is a spacious 
Maidan, once a race-course, in 
gayer days, now providing a golf- 
course and polo ground and tennis 
courts. The new Club is to the K. 
of the Maidan, Dacca College to 
the S. 

In 1912, at the repartition, the 



437 


ROUTE 24. Dacca: chatcdpxjr 


new province disappeared, and 
Dacca is no longer a capital, but 
only the largest Ci\ul Station m 
Bengal outside Calcutta It has 
the atmosphere of a romantic past 
Its bazars are very good and very 
interesting. The shell bracelets of 
Dacca are famous, and may be seen 
here m the making. The flimsy 
muslins ahrawan," ‘ " baflliaz^'a/' 

Shabnam/’ “running water" 
‘Svovenair/’ “ evening dew,' once 
so celebrated, are now not often 
produced, and the art of weaving 
them seems to be dying out. Of 
other less costly muslins there is 
still a considerable output. Silver 
flligree work of good quality is 
done, and there are some promising 
new industries, such as the making 
of buttons. 

At Kurmitola, 10 m. distant by 
road, a forest begins, which 
stretches N. for over 100 m to 
Tangail. Leopards may fre- 
quently be had rvithin 10 m. of 
Dacca, and tigers a little further 
off, but the countrv is not suitable 
lor pig-sticking. Ducks are plen- 
tiful in parts, but snipe are 
very scarce. 

In the rains much of Dacca Dis- 
trict IS under water. Narayan- 
ffanj. on the Lakhya, 10 m. or 12 
m. off, IS the port of Dacca, and has 
a large trade, particularly in jute, 
for wliich it is the great mofussil 
centre. Xear it .there are some 
old forts of Mir Jumla’s. and op- 
posite the town, on the E. bank of 
the Laldiya, the celebrated shrine 
of Kadam Rasul. 

. The population of Narayanganj 
iQ 1911 was 27,876 There is a 
considerable number of European 
residents, and several European 
Arms, engaged in the jute trade 
A Subdivisional officer is stationed 
■‘‘Cre, and, when the projected 
division of Dacca District into two 

accomplished, Karayanganj will 
‘'e the headquarter^ of the new 
i iistnct. Munshiganj is the head- 
d^^rters of another Subdivision, 
lire Idrakpur fort, built by Alir 
lumU in about 1660, is still in 


[ good condition, and the Subdivi- 
! sional officer’s residence has been 
built on the roof 

Dacca has no hotel proper, but 
the Dak Bungalow, close to the 
railway station, is good, and pro- 
vides comfortable quarters . for 
travellers. The city is by repute a 
healthy place, being almost free 
^ from nialaria, and fortunate m its 
' seldom-failing breeze. 

The railway from Dacca pro- 
j ceeds X. to 

I 

I 76 ra. Mymensingh station (R.) 

! and 

130 m. Jaganathganj. The 
Assam steamer, leaving Goalundo 
in the early morning, reaches 
Jaganathganj at ii p.m. the same 
: day. 

From Singhjani (108 m. from 
Dacca on the Dacca-Mymensingh 
1 and Jaganathganj line) a new rail- 
1 way line to Fulchari is under 
i construction, and will be opened 
I bhortly. A new railway is shortly 
! to be opened from Bhairab Bazar 
j in the Kishoreganj Subdivision of 
' the ^lymensingh District to Netro- 
! kona, with stations at Kishore- 
j ganj, Gouripur, and Xetrokona. 
j Mymensingh is the most populous 
; District in India, containing 
i 4,526,422 souls. It is noted for 
' its production of a quarter of the 
i total jute crop grown in the jute- 
j producing Provinces. 


( 2 ) Calcutta by Goalundo and 
Chandpur to Chittagong and 
to Gauhati in 44 hours by 
Assam-Bengal Kailway. 

i Fares — Rs,74 and Rs.io. 

There is a regular service of 
! steamers from Goalundo in con- 
nection v.ith the mail train from 
' Calcutta to Chandpur. There is 
also a direct steamer communica- 
i tion from Dacca in 5|- hrs. D.Bs. 

‘ at Chandpur and Com i ID 



India 


438 ROUTE 24. (2) CALCUTTA TO GAUHATI 


available ; the accommodation 
therein is reasonably sufficient. 
From Chandpur the Asbam-Bengal 
Railway runs to 

32 m. Laksam Junction station. 
Here the S. branch of the line 
runs, to Chittagong. 

81 m. Chittagong station, the S. 
terminus (population 28,766 in 
1911 ; annual value of import 
trade, 1 52 lakhs, and of export trade 
632 lakhs). It is the chief town 
of the Division and District of t 
the same name, which came into j 
British possession by cession m 
1760. It was once part of the 
Hindu kingdom of Tippera, was 
burnt by the Portuguese in 1538, 
was recaptured by the Mughal s 
from the Raja of Arakan in 1668, 
and was the cause of the First 
Burmese War. The port, 12 m. 
from the sea up the Karnaphuli 
River, is a very good one, and its 
trade is rapidly increasing. The 
Port Trust income is Rs. 189,000, 
the Pilotage Fund income 
Rs. 38,000. There are eleven tea- 
gardens in the District, with a 
total of 4270 acres under tea. 
The passenger steamers are — the 
B.I.S.N. Company and Asiatic 
Steam Navigation Company to 
Rangoon ; the Calcutta Retriever 
Flotilla Company to Cox’s Bazar ; 
the I.G.S.N, and Railway Com- 
pany to Bansal. 

From Laksam junction the 
Bengal -Assam Railway runs N. 
to 15 m. Comilla, 44 m. Akhativa, 
124 m. Kiilaura, and 171 m, 
Badarpur, and from the last by a 
branch line 18 m. to 

190 m. Silchar (D.B.) (popula- 
tion. 8785), headquarters of the 
Cachar District, annexed in 1830. 
The wild tea-plant was discovered 
here in 1855. From Kulaura a 
branch line has been constructed to 
Sylhet (D.B.) (population 14,457), 
on the lower valley of the Surma 
River, so that this place is now 
reached by rail. There is also a 
steamer service to Fenchuganj 
from Narayaganj. There are also 
steamer service from Tvlarauli to 


I Chhatak (D.B.) throughout the 
I year, and a feeder and steamer 
1 service from Chhatak to Sylliet 
I during the rainy season. Both 
I Sylhet and Silchar have suffered 
I severely from earthquakes on 
various occasions. 

From Akhaura a branch line 
runs S.W. to Bhairab Bazar, with 
bifurcation from that place to 
Dacca and Mymensingh. 

From Badarpur the Bengal- 
Assam Railway continues N. to 

287 m. Lumding Junction, from 
which place the line runs {112 m.) 
to Gauhati and to (494 m.) Tinsukia 
Junction. 

Nowgong (in Assam) is 662 m. 
from Calcutta and 119 m. from 
Shillong. The ordinary means of 
reaching Nowgong from Calcutta 
for passengers is bv Eastern 
Bengal State Railway to Gauhati 
via Amingaon, thence by Assam- 
Bengal Railway to Chaparmukh, 
thence by road ibj m. to Nowgong. 
A railway from Chaparmukli 
through Nowgong town to Silghat 
will shortly be completed 

The method of transit for heavy 
packages is usually by steamer 
all the way from Calcutta to 
Silghat on the Brahmaputra River, 
thence byroad (32 m.) to Nowgong. 

There are D.Bs. both at Now- 
gong and Silghat. 

Gauhati (D.B ). Gauhati,^ once 
the capital of the Ahom (Shan) 
kings, is the headquarters of 
Kamrup District and of the Assam 
Valley Division and formerly of 
the Assam Administration. It 
possesses a First-grade College, a 
Law College, and numerous 
schools. The place was almost 
destroyed by the earthquake of 
1 89 7, but no signs of this catas- 
trophe are now visible. The situa- 
tion of it, on the S. bank of 
the Brahmaputra, which here re- 
sembles a lake Avith mountains and 
wooded shores is very pretty. In 

1 Any one specially interested in Assam 
should consult Sir K. (iait’s History of 
the country. 



SHILLONG 


439 


ROUTE 24. 

the middle of the river are the | 
island and temple of Umananda, 
and on the X. bank, on a projecting 
ridge, is another temple on the top 
of a hill approached by winding 
flights of steps. 

Gauhati is at present the junc- 
tion of the Assam Valley branch 
of the Assam- Bengal Railway and 
of the Eastern Bengal State Rail- 
way connecting it with Calcutta 
The population of the town of 
Gauhati is 12,481. It has an 
area of 2.95 sq. m., and is the 
principal centre of trade in Lower 
Assam. The celebrated temple of 
Kamakhya, on the Nilachal Hill, 
some 3 m. below the town, is the 
resort of numerous pilgrims from 
all parts of India. 

There is a. very good road 
(63 m.) from Gauhati S. to 

Shillong. 

A survey is being made for a 
narrow-gauge railway to Shillong. 
River steamers call daily, eii voute 
up and down stream. 

Shillong, 4 = the summer head- 
quarters of the Assam Adminis- 
tration, is situated in lat. 25° 34^ 
long. 91^ 33', at a height of 
4900 ft. above the sea. It is 
connected by motor services with 
the railway stations at Pandughat 
and Gauhati, and the journey 
from Calcutta now takes only 
about 26 hrs. Cars for luggage and 
servants accompany the first-class 
passenger car. Fares (motor, which 
does the 69 m. from Pandughat in 
5 hrs ) — Rs 22, first class; servants, 
Rs.io ; luggage, Rs.3 per maund. 
The charge for advance luggage 
is Rs.3 per maund to Pandu- 
ghat or Gauhati, The road from 
Gauhati runs through tropical 
forest, roUing grassy downs, 
and great pine woods ; the jour- 
ney is charming. Shillong (popu- 
lation 13,577) is tastefully laid 
out amongst the pine woods 
that clothe the hill from which it 
takes its name. The surrounding 
country is not unlike the lowlands 
of Scotland, and there are an 


excellent golf-course, a fine polo 
ground and race - course, and 
opportunities for riding and 
driving which cannot be enjoyed 
at Himalayan hill stations. The 
average rainfall is 81 in. The 
temperature in the height . of 
summer rarely reaches 80^ F. 
The best accommodation is to be 
obtained at La Chaumiere (where 
an introduction is required) ; 
terms ; Rs.250 a month for a 

single person ; Rs.450 for a mar- 
ried couple. The Pine wood Hotel 
charges Rs.8 to Rs.io for a short 
stay, and from Rs.225 monthly, 
according to the accommodation 
required : there are also a few 
boarding-houses and a D.B. 

Shillong is connected by a 
motor road with Cherrapunji 
(4455 ft-, D.B.). This place is 
famous for the highest annual 
rainfall in the world — 426 in ; 
in 1861 an extraordinary record 
amounted to 905 in., of which 
366 in. fell in Julv alone. 
From Cherrapunji a steep road 
leads in 10 m. to Theria, in 
the Surma Valley, and so to 
Sylhet. Motor-car available on 
application to the General Man- 
ager, Gauhati-Shillong Motor Tran- 
sport Company, Shillong, for a visit 
to Cherrapunji. 

The railway from Lumding 
junction continues N.E. past 
Manipur Road (Dimapur), Titabor, 
and iVIoriani (from which tw^o 
short branches run to Jorhat and 
to Gosainganj on the Brahma- 
putra), and then 104 m. more to 
(494 m.) Tinsukia, whence one 
branch of 27 m. leads to Dibru- 
garh, surrounded by tea-gardens, 
and another, dividing at Makum, 
runs N. to Talap, thence runs N. 
to Saikhowaghat, on the nver. and 
S. to Margherita, called after the 
Queen of Italy, where the Assam 
coalfields are situated ; the output 
of coal was, in 1916, 282,652 tons, 
paying a royalty of Rs 34,495. 
Five m. farther S. the line ends at 
Ledo. It is under contemplation 
to construct a railway from here 



440 


ROUTE 24. (2) CALCUTTA TO GAUHATI ; MANIPUR Ifldxa 


down the Hukong Valley to j 
Mogaung (p 631) j 

Dibrugarh (population 14,563) j 

is the headquarters of the Lak- j 
himpur District (population, 
468,989), and of the Assam Valley 
Light Horse. The river steamer 
from Goalundo, calling at other 
stations on the Brahmaputra, 
reaches Dibrugarh as well as the j 
railway. i 

From Dimap ur the main road to | 

Manipur (134 m ) runs S. not far 
from the old (now abandoned) 
fort of Samagnting and Kohima 
{46 m.). The road is metalled 
throughout and fit for light motor 
traffic except after heavy rain ; it 
is supplied with R.Hs., but pro- 
visions must be taken. Cart rates 
for carts carrying 10 maunds each, 
are Rs.iS-24 for up- journey, and 
Rs. 24-30 for down journey. Carts 
take 10-12 days. 

Imphal, the capital of the State 
of Manipur, lies in a lovely valley, 
which is some 60 m. long and 30 m. 
wide, at a height of 2600 ft. above 
sea-level. It is reached by cart- 
road from Manipur Road station 
on the Assam - Bengal Railway. 
The distance is 134 m., and there 
are twelve well - furnished R.Hs. 
at convenient distances. At 
Manipur Road there are a D B. 
and small bazar, and at Kohima 
(46^ m.) supplies are also obtain- 
able. but these are the only two 
places where anything can be 
procured. There are no carriages, 
motor - cars, horses, ponies, or 
elephants to be hired at Manipur 
Road, and there are no servants 
in the bungalows. Those who own 
motors can make the trip com- 
fortably iiL ts\^o days, halting for 
the night in Kohima. The road 
ascends 5700 ft., and then descends 
to the valley, the last 15 m, being 
level. The grades are easy, but 
the corners are sharp. Imphal 
was the scene of a disaster in 
1891, when Mr Quinton, Chief 
Commissioner of Assam, and 
several other officers were cap- 
tured by treachery and murdered. 


The State is governed by the Raja 
Chura Chand Singh and a Darbar. 
The scenery on the valley and on 
the roads leading to it is most 
beautiful. The valley is sur- 
rounded by hills, which rise from 
2500 ft to 5000 ft. above it 
The whole drainage of the valley 
and the surrounding hills escapes 
at the Southern end of the valley 
through a gorge in the hills only a 
few hundred yards wide. There 
are several large lakes, on which 
in the cold weather magnificent 
duck shooting is obtainable. In 
the swamps round these lakes a 
species of Thamin is to be found, 
but the shooting is difficult and 
fatiguing, and can only be indulged 
in during March, April, and May, 
when the swamps are at their 
driest. 

The people of Manipur are very 
fond of games. Hockey, both on 
horseback and on foot, is played 
everywhere, and the religions 
dances are most interesting spec- 
tacles. From Imphal good bridle 
roads, with R.Hs. at every 13 m- 
or 14 m., lead to Silchar (125 m.) 
and Sittaung, on the Chindvdn 
{102 m.). 

If ample notice is given to the 
Political Agent, carts can be 
arranged for at Manipur Road 
station and coolies at Silchar. A 
cart carries 10 maunds ; the charge 
for the journey to Imphal is Rs.iS 
to Rs.24. Coolies carry 60 lb., 
and the charge per coolie from 
Silchar to Imphal is Rs 5, 8as. 
The journey from Silchar to 
Imphal occupies nine days. 

Tea Industry. 

Assam holds the first place 
among the Provinces of India as 
regards the production of tea. 
It contains, according to the latest 
report for 1916, 779 gardens, 

with an area of 383,821 acres 
under cultivation, and an out-turn 
of 245,385,920 lb- of manufac- 
tured tea. 

The industry shows steady pro- 
gress. Tea from the Brahma- 



ROUTE 24. MANIPUR — COOCH BEHAR — DHUBRI 


441 


putra A’alley sold m Calcutta up 
to March 1916 for gas. 8p. 
a lb. ; from the Surma Valley 
for 8as. ip. per lb. At the 
London sales up to March 1916 
the price of the former was 
11.23d. per lb.; of the latter, 
lo.obd. per lb. The labour ques- 
tion is one of great moment in 
Assam, where the area is great, 
the population sparse, and the 
demand for tea-garden labourers 
always present. At the close of 
1915-16 the total strength of 
the labour force was 953,127 per- 
sons, of whom a large proportion 
consisted of women and children. 
In that year as many as 110,376 
labourers, of whom 37,768 were 
children, immigrated into Assam. 
Alost of the immigrants were not 
under the Labour Act. The 
prejudice against Assam is being 
gradually removed with improved 
conditions and attractions. Time- 
expired tea - garden coolies can 
obtain Government land for colon- 
isation on favourable terms. 

Tea was first discovered growing 
wild in Manipur, and from that 
ytate considerable quantities of 
seed are even now exported to 
Cachar. For many years little 
or no advantage was taken of the 
discovery. Any traveller wishing 
to visit the tea-gardens will have 
no difficulty in obtaining an intro- 
duction to some planter from 
friends, or through friends from 
some London or Calcutta agents of 
a tea-estate, and may be sure of 
a hospitable reception. The tea 
districts are for the most part well 
furnished with driving - roads — 
many of them passable for light 
motor-cars during the dry season 
—and R.Hs. 


( 3 ) By E. Serial Railway in 20^ hours 
from Calcutta to (461 m. ) Gauhati, 
the centre of the Assam Valley 
proper. Fares — Rs. 44, 9as. : Rs. 22, 
4as, 9 p : Rs. 6, 3as. 6p. 

The direct route to Gauhati 


from Calcutta fSealda) follows the 
same course as that to Darjeeling 
as far as 

172^ m. Santahar junction. 

It then swings K. to 197J m. 
Bogra, 269I m. Kaunia, to Tees t a 
junction, crossing the Teesta by 
a bridge 2100 ft. long to 

279 m. Lalmonirhat (there are 
a Refreshment-room and a D.B.), 
287 m. Gitaldaha junction, 

311^ m. Golakganj junction to 
4.54 m. Amingaon, on the Brah- 
maputra ; there cross the river by 
a railway ferry, and then across to 
456 m. Fandu, and from there 
by rail or motor car to 
461 m. Gauhati. 

From GITALDAHA a branch 
metre-gauge railway line runs N. 
to Cooch Behar, of which the Koch 
Chief is His Highness Maharaja 
Raj Jitendra Narayan Bhup Baha- 
dur, K.C.S.I., who succeeded his 
brother in 1913. The State has 
an area of 1307 sq. m., a popu- 
lation of 600,000, and a revenue of 
2S lakhs. The State has been 
famous for its big- game shooting. 

The Assam line turns E. again, 
round the elbow of the Brahma- 
putra, to 

319 m. Golakganj junction. 
Branch to (332 m.) Dhuhri, once 
the usual starting - place of the 
short steamer route to Gauhati. 
Steamers still run between these 
two places by Goalpara, the jour- 
ney of 130 m. occupying about 
41 hrs. Travellers can proceed by 
steamer to Tezpur, the next day 
to Nigrihng, and about 24 hrs. 
later will reach Dibyugayh, but 
will probably prefer the railway 
route [via Lumding). 

Travellers must remember that 
the cold wind caused by the move- 
ment of the vessel may be pene- 
trating, and that warm clothes are 
therefore necessary. The scenery 
is moderately pretty only ; on the 
right {left river-bank) are the Garo 
Hills, and away on the left, if the 
atmosphere is clear, may be seen 
the grand range of the Himalayas, 
and the wooded Bhutan Hills in 



ROUTE 25. CALCUTTA TO MADRAS 


India 


442 

the middle distance ; the snowy 
range is seen all along the river, 
and showing to special advantage 
at sunrise. At Goalpara (D.B.), 
situated at the foot of a conical 
hill (left bank), may be seen pic- 
turesque native merchants and 
^vild hill tribesmen, who come 
down from the mountains to trade 
in skins, etc. Above this numbers 
of crocodiles will be noticed 
basking on the sand-banks in the 
sun. 

Hence the line runs at a distance 
from the river to (395 m.) Sorbhog 
and (462 m.) Amingaon. 


ROUTE 25. 

CALCUTTA to MADRAS by 
Balasore, Cuttack, Bhubaneswar 
(visit to Udayagiri Caves, Puri, 
and the Black Pagoda), Ganjam, 
Vizianagram, Waltair for Vizaga- 
patam, Bezwada, and Nellore — 
Bengal - Nagpur Railway from 
Howrah to Waltair and Madras 
and S. Mahratta Railway, N.E. 
^ section, from Waltair to Madras. 

(Distance 1032 m. ; time occupied by mail 
train, 39I hrs. : fares — Rs.91, Ks.44, Rs.13, 
7 as.). 

Howrah. — Calcutta (see p. 95). 

20 m. Ulubaria (see p. 99). 

34 m. Kola Ghat (R.). Here the 
railway crosses the Rupnarain 
River, a large tidal river flowing 
into the Hooghly, near its junction 
with which are the famous James 
and Mary Sands, the scene of so 


many wrecks in that river (p. 99). 
The bridge over this river, about 
J m. m length, is a very fine one, 
and from the engineering difficul- 
ties met \rith in construction it 
ranks as one of the most important 
bridges in India. 

72 m. Kharakpur is an import- 
ant railway junction for the line 
to Nagpur, Bhusawal, and Bom- 
bay (see Route 7). It is the seat 
of the main workshops of the 
Bengal - Nagpur Railway. They 
are large modem structures, pro- 
vided with up-to-date machinery, 
worked by electrical power. Over 
7000 workmen are employed, and 
the population of the railway 
settlement, which is self-contained 
and carefully laid out, is over 
20,000 persons. 

From Kharakpur there is also a 
branch to (8m.) Midnapore, an old 
station of the E.I. Company 
(population 32,740) and head- 
quarters of the district. The 
spot in the Midnapore District 
originally famous was the Bud- 
dhist seaport of Tamluk (p. 100). 
Another branch to the N.W. runs 
through Bankura to (103 m.) Adra 
junction between Sim and Asansol 
(p. 122). There is a good D B. 
about J m. from the station. 

Ghatal. — Headquarters of a Sub- 
division in the District of Mid- 
napur. Important trade centre. 
During the rains there is a daily 
steamer service from Calcutta. In 
other seasons steamers proceed up 
to Ranichak, whence the journey 
is made by boats. Its chief indus- 
tries are the weaving of cotton 
and tussore silk cloths, the manu- 
facture of bell-metal utensils, and 
the preparation of coarse earthen 
pots. 

Contai, — Headquarters of the 
: Subdivision of the same name, 
36 m. by rail from Contai Road 
Railway Station, on the B.N.R. 
The S.E. of the district is a mad- 



ROUTE 2 ^. KAUKHALI — BALASORE— J AJPUR ROAD 443 


time tract lying along the Bay of 
Bengal. 


Kaulchali, or Cowcolly. — A village 
in the Contai Subdivision, situated 
on the sea-coast 3 m. S. of Ked- 
giin. A lighthouse was built here 
in 1810. 

The District is full of tracts 
containing Sal jungle, m which 
black bear and leopards are to 
be found. In winter snipe and 
duck can be shot in certain tracts. 


144 in. Balasore {R., D.B.), 

headquarters of a Civil District, 
it is close to the railway station, 
where there is a Refreshment-room 
of the Bengal-Xagpur Railway. 
The D B. is about 10 mm, walk 
Irom the station, furnished and 
accommodating two persons. 
Balasore is an ordnance station for 
testing shells and guns The open 
sea makes it a favourite resort, 
and it promise.s to become in the 
near future a large watering-place. 
The delicious pom fret lish is 
procurable, and is finding its way 
into the Calcutta market. There 
are large Roman Catholic and 
Baptist Missions in the town. The 
place*, of which the correct name 
Js Baleswar, was once of great 
commercial importance, and the 
Dutch, Danes, English, and 
French had factories here ; Piph, 
m the District, was the first spot 
at which, in 1634, the English E.I. 
Company established a factory in 
Bengal, and from here the Bala- 
sore factory was founded in 1642, 
in accordance with the grant issued 
by the Delhi Emperor at the 
request of Mr Gabriel Boughton. 
There are two curious old Dutch 
tombs, dated 1683, built like 
three-sided pyramids, about 20 ft. 
high, in a small secluded enclosure 
near the native part of the town. 

There is a fine temple at Remuna 
F) m. from the station), where 
]>dgnms to Puri congregate. 


202 m. Jaj^ur Road for Jajpur, 

7 m. to the \V. (D B ). The ruins ^ 
at Jajpur, once the capital of 
Orissa, are fine and interesting, 
but probably only an antiquarian 
will care to visit them. The chief 
object is a fine pillar 32 ft. high, 
standing on a base 5 ft. 5 in high, 
square, ^ and composed of large 
blocks of stone vnthout any orna- 
ment The shaft and capital are 
26 ft. 7 in high, and appear to 
bo a monolith The capital, of 
exquisite proportion, is carved 
to imitate lotus blossoms, and 
adorned below with lions’ heads, 
from w^hose mouths depend strings 
of roses or beads. The capital 
once was crowned with a figure of 
the Garuda, or eagle-vehicle, of 
Vishnu. The Garuda is said to 
have been hurled from the summit 
of the pillar by the Muhamma- 
dans, who attempted also to 
destrov the pillar itself ; it is now 
m the temple of Narsingh, i m. S. 
of the temple of Jagannath The 
finest temple was that of Tnlo- 
chan, the Three-Eyed ; on the 
Binjharpur Road is a well-built 
ancient bridge. In the compound 
of the Subdivisional Magistrate, 
adjoining the District Board Bun- 
galow, are three monolithic statues 
of Indrani on her elephant, Yarahi 
with the boar, and Chamundi (p. 
107) represented as the Goddess of 
Famine : and in a dry bed of the 
river are seven other statues, each 
6 ft. high Xear the P.W.D. Bunga- 
low is also the fine mosque of 
Nawab Abu Nasir Khan, built in 
1681 A.D. • 

There is a bungalow very close 
to the railway station of Vyasso- 
rovar (18 m from Jajpur) where 
respectable travellers and Govern- 
ment officers halt while proceedmg 
to Jajpur. From this place there 
IS a metalled road vid Chaibasa 
(Singhbhum) for motoring to 

^ There is an e.xeellent little handbook of 
Cuttack, Jajpur, Bhubaneswar, Udayagiri, 
Puri, and Kanarak. by Mr Brown, formerly 
Judge of Cuttack. 



444 ROUTE 25. CALCUTTA 

Bankipore, the ca^tal of the 
Province. 

The Nalatigiri hills, with some 
Buddhistic caves and inscriptions 
in Pali are places of antiquarian 
interest. They are 10 m. from 
the Dhanmandal Railway Station 
in the Jajpur Subdivision, Com- 
munication by fair weather road is 
cut off by two rivers. A P.W.D. 
Bungalow is available at 2 m from 
the hills. 


253 m. Cuttack ^ (D B.) (popu- 
lation 52,528) is situated at the 
apex of the delta of the ^lahanadi 
River, which rises in the Raipur 
district of the Central Provinces, 
and has a length of 529 m. It 
rushes down upon the delta 
through the narrow gorge of 
Naraj, 7 m. W. of the town of 
Cuttack, and, dividing into two 
streams, encircles the citv on the 
N. and E., and on the W. by its 
branch, ealled the Katjuri. The 
river during the rains pours down 
a prodigious flood, and to prevent 
its sweeping away the city an 
important stone embankment has 
been erected on the spit of land 
on which that stands. 

Cuttack is the chief station of 
the Sub Province Orissa. It was 
founded in the loth century a.d. 
by one of the Kings of the 
Kesari, or Lion, dynasty. Its 
position as the key of the Orissa 
hill territory and the centre of 
the network of the Orissa canals 
gives it both military and com- 
Aercial importance. It is famed 
for its filigree work in gold 
and silver. It is the seat of the 
Circuit Court of the Patna High 
Court. There are two Clubs, one 
European and one Indian. The 
former is within the Fort enclosure 
and the latter at a short distance. 
Within the enclosure there is a 
Circuit House, constructed about 
fifteen years ago for the occupa- 
tion of the Lieutenant-Governor of 
the province. 

There is no hotel : a refresh- 


TO MADRAS : CUTTACK India 

ment-room is maintained by Messrs 
Kellner & Company at the Cut- 
tack Railway Station. There is a 
Staging Bungalow 2 m. from the 
railway station. 

The Fort, called Fort Barabati. 
IS in ruins, and all that remains of 
it now is a fine gateway. It was 
taken by the British in 1803 In 
the public gardens on the Tal- 
danda Canal are a beautifully- 
carved arch and some other 
carved stones. 

Near Cuttack are important 
weirs for regulating the flow of the 
rivers. Two of these, the Birupa 
and Mahanadi, may be seen m 
quitting the place. A road a little 
to the N. of the Taldanda Canal 
leads to the Tobra Ghat, where are 
the Great P.W.D. workshops and 
the Mahanad Weir, which i.s 
6400 ft. long and 12^ ft. high, and 
cost in round numbers thirteen 
lakhs of rupees. It was begun m 
1863 and completed in 1869-70. 
The Birupa River leaves the Maha- 
nadi on its right bank, and the 
weir there is 19S0 ft. long and 9 ft. 
I high. Of the four canals which 
^ form the Orissa Irrigation System, 

I two take ofE from the Birupa Weir, 
I and one with its branch from the 
‘ Mahanadi Weir. 

; Within ii m. K. and S. of 
; Cuttack the railway line is carried 
I over no less than five big bridges, 

1 the whole section comprising the 
I most difficult piece of ri’^erain 
j engineering to be seen anywhere 
in India. 

! 

I Kendrapara, 38 m. to the E. of 
j Cuttack town, connected by road 
j and canal. A steam-launch plies 
{ daily between the two. A place 
1 of pilgrimage for Hindus where the 
j idol Baldeb Jiu is much revered. 

It is visited by up-country pil- 
: grims, being known as Tulasi 
, Khetra. There are four D.Bs. on 
I the way. 

i Bank!. A place of some im- 



ROUTE 25. BHUBANESWAR 


445 


portance, situated at tlie outskirts 
Qf some of the Feudatory States 
at a distance of 28 m. to the W. of 
Cuttack. Lately a bridge over a 
deep river has been constructed 
which makes communication 
easier. Two D.Bs. are on the 
way and a P.W.D. Bungalow is at 
Banki itself. It is an important 
centre of the Co-operative Credit 
movement in the Province. It is 
possible to motor from Cuttack to 
Banki at most seasons of the year 
but the Khatjun River has to be 
crossed. 

271 m. from Calcutta is 
Bhubaneswar. There is a P.W.D. 
Bungalow at Bhubaneswar itself. 
The R.H. (supplies should be 
taken) is at Khandagiri, 4 m. to 
the N.W. of the station — per- 
mission to occupy it should be 
obtained from the Subdivisional 
officer of Khurda, who will also 
accord leave to occupy a room 
in the District Board Inspection 
Bungalow at Bhubaneswar if this 
IS desired. The best plan for 
sight-seeing is to proceed from the 
station to the Khandagiri R.H., 
spend a day in examining the 
Buddhist caves tliere, proceed 
early the second morning to the 
Asoka Rock at Dhauh, 5 m. S. of 
Bhubaneswar, and return to the 
latter to visit the temples there 
and pass the heat of the day at 
the pohce station. A palanquin 
IS the only means of locomotion 
round Bhubaneswar, and should 
be ordered beforehand, vdth extra 
bearers if it is desired to move 
about with a moderate degree of 
speed. 

The Khandagiri R.H. is only 
a few yards from the Jam and 
Buddhist caves. The former are 
on the Khandagiri Hill at the back 
of it ; the latter are on a projecting 
spur to the front of it, and date 
from between 250 b.c. to 100 a.p. 

The Udayagiri HtU^ is no ft. 

^ See pp. 55*94 of The Cave TempUi. of 
/ndiUy and Fergussons Indian Architec- 
ture^ 2, 9*18. 


^ high, and the caves are excavated 
' in the sides of it at various 
levels. The first reached from the 
R.H. is the Swargapuri Cave, 
from which a level path to the 
right (E.) leads round to the Rani 
ka Naur and Ganesh Gumpha 
caves, and vdnds upward and 
backwards to below the Hathi 
Gumpha, where it is joined by 
the path which runs up steeply to 
the left from the Swargapuri Cave 
past the Jaya Vijaya and Vai- 
kuntha caves to this point. The 
Rani ka Naur, or Queen’s Palace, 
faces E., and consists of two rows 
of cells, one above the other, 

] shaded by pillared verandas, with 
' a courtyard, 49 ft. by 43 ft., cut out 
I of the hillside, and is probably 
I intended to represent the side and 
t two ends of a structural vihara. 

I The upper storey, 63 ft. to the 
' front, which stands back, has 
I eight entrances giving access to 
I four cells. At the N. end are two 
; dwarpals, representing men in 
' armour, with buskins and greaves, 

I cut out of the sohd rock in alto- 
; rehevo ; these are probably figures 
! of the Yavana warriors who con- 
quered Onssa. At either end is a 
rock hon, executed with some 
' spirit. The back wall of the 
veranda has an extensive series of 
tableaux, difficult to make out. 
First on the left are men carrying 
! fruit, a group of elephants, and 
soldiers armed wuth swords— this 
1 is probably a scene from Ceylon. 

Then comes a scene, repeated at 
' the Ganesh Gumpha, of a combat 
over a woman— and then one o^ 

; the winged deer presenting itself 
I to the King. The last scene which 
! can be made out represents a love 
episode. 

' The lower storey also has eight 
: entrances. The ground-fioor front 
1 was formed of a colonnaded ver- 
anda 44 ft. long, having a raised 
seat, or berm, along its whole 
■ inner hne. It was formerly sup- 
^ ported by a row of eight square 
pillars, of which only the two end 
I ones remain, and opened S. into 



India 


446 ROUTE 25. CALCUTTA TO 

an oblong chamber and N. into^ 
three rooms. Here also there is* 
an extensive frieze, much dilapi- 
dated, so that only four fragments 
admit of description. The hrst 
represents a house, and a female 
figure looks out of each of the 
three doors, and one from the 
balcony, which is protected by a 
Buddhist rail. A similar rail runs 
in front of the lower storey, vdth a 
large tree by its side. In the ^ 
second fragment a saint or priest 
holds a piece of cloth in his left 
hand and extends the right as in 
the act of blessing ; one servant 
holds an umbrella, and another 
carries a sword. Next a devotee 
on his knees, and beyond two 
kneeling women bring offerings, 
one dusting the feet of a boy, who 
has one hand on her head. In the 
third fragment is a saddle-horse 
with three attendants, and the 
holy man with an umbrella held 
over him, and tw^o attendants 
with swords. In the fourth frag- 
ment there is a group of six women, 
three carrying pitchers on their 
heads, and one kneehng and ofier- 
ing her pitcher to a figure, which 
is lost. On the right wing are 
scenes of a man and woman 
making ofierings, and of a woman 
dancing to the accompaniment of 
four musicians. 

The Ganesh Gumpha is almost 
due N. of the Rani ka Naur Cave, 
and much higher in the hill. It 
has only one storey, and consists 
of two compartments with a 
veranda in front. There are 
, three pillars in the front of the 
veranda, square and massive, 
and two others have fallen. The 
pillars have brackets, with female 
figures carved on them. The 
flight of steps leading to the 
veranda has a crouching elephant 
on either side, each holding a lotus 
in his trunk. The veranda wall 
is ornamented with a series of 
eight tableaux in alto - relievo. 
This frieze and that in the Rani 
ka Naur Cave represent the same 
story, the mam difference being 


MADRAS : BHUBANESWAR 

that in this cave the figures are 
more classical and better drawji, 
and therefore, Mr Fergusson 
thinks, more modem. In the 
Rani’s Cave they are certainly 
more Hindu. The scenes include 
an escape on elephant back, dis- 
mounting from the elephant, and 
resting in the forest. The Bud- 
dhist trisula (trident) and shield are 
carved on this cave. 

The Swargapuri has no carvdng 
or inscription except on some pil- 
asters near the door, from the 
top of which runs a line of well- 
sculptured foliage with an elephant 
issuing from trees at the end of it. 

The Jay a Vijaya Cave, a double- 
storeyed one, has a frieze with 
three compartments, the base 
being formed of a line of Buddhist 
rails. In the central compart- 
ment is a Bo-tree (p. 51). Beside 
the tree are tw'o male figures, that 
on the left with folded hands, and 
that on the right holding a bit of 
cloth tied to the tree and a small 
branch. Near the men are t\YO 
females bringing trays of offerings. 
The semicircular bands of scroll- 
work over the doorways are 
different, and beyond them are 
two turbaned figures carrying 
trays of offerings. 

The V aikuntha is a small two- 
storeyed cave, with the upp^r 
^ storey set back and a frieze of 
men and animals across the front. 
It was probably the prototype of 
the Rani ka Naur and Ganesh 
Gumpha. 

75 yds. to the N.W. is the 
Hathi Gumpha, or “ Elephant 
Cave,” which Mr Fergusson de- 
scribes (2, n) as an extensive 
natural cave, improved by art. H 
is perfectly plain, but has an 
inscription above it of 117 lines, 
vrhich is referred to 300 b.c., and 
is probably the oldest memorial 
here. To the left is a boulder 
which has been hollowed out into 
a cell 5 ft. sq. A few yards 
N. of the “ Elephant Cave ” is the 
Pavana Gumpha, or ” Cave of 
1 Purification ” ; and about 75 



ROUTE 25. BHUBANESWAR 


447 


to the S.W. of the Pavana Gumpha 
is the Sarpa Gumpha, or “ Serpent 
Cave,” having on the top of the 
entrance a rude carving of the 
hood of a three -headed cobra. 
Under this is the door, through 
which a man can just crawl ; the 
interior is a cube of 4 ft. Beside 
the door is an inscription trans- 
lated by James Prinsep. 

50 ft. to the N. is the very inter- 
esting Bagh Gumpha, or "‘Tiger 
Cave,” cut externally into the 
shape of the upper part of a tiger's 
head, with the jaws at full gape. 
The eyes and nose of the monster 
are still well marked, but the teeth 
are now imperfectly discernible. 
The head at top, \Yhere it joins 
the hill, is 8 ft. 8 in. broad. The 
gape is 9 ft. wide, and the entrance 
to the cell occupies the place of 
the gullet. To the right of the 
entrance is an inscription in the 
Asoka character. At the begin- 
ning of the inscription is a Bud- 
dhist monogram, and at the end 
a Swastika cross. 

The Khandagiri Hill is 133 ft. 
high and faces E. It is thickly 
covered with trees. The path 
which leads to the top is steep, 
and at the height of about 50 ft. 
divides into two, one branch lead- 
ing to the left, and to a range of 
Jain caves cut in the E. face of the 
hill (see below). 

The path on the right leads to 
tYie Ananta Cave, which is a narrow 
Buddhist excavation, with four 
doorways and a veranda with 
pillars and pilasters with decorated 
sides. Instead of a capital, these 
have a projecting bracket, shaped 
like a woman. The architrave is 
heavy, and over it is a parapet 
supported on corbels. In the 
centre of the back wall of the cave 
a Buddha in bas-relief. The 
frieze is in five compartments, and 
represents figures running with 
trays of offerings, athletes fighting 
with bulls and lions, and two lines 
of geese running with spread 
wings, each with a flower in its 
^rll. In the semicircular space 


under one of the arches is a nude 
female standing in a lotus-bush, 
and holding a lotus-stalk in either 
hand. Tw’o elephants are throw- 
ing water over her with their 
trunks. This is a representation 
of Lakshmi, the first of the Hindu 
Pantheon to be revered by the 
Buddhists. In the other tym- 
panum is a scene of w'orshipping 
of a Bo-tree. 

The left path leads to a modern 
gallery, and to the S. to a range 
of three openings. There is here 
a Sanskrit inscription of the 12th 
century recording that the cave 
belonged to Acharya Kalachandra 
and Ills pupil Vellachandra. Next 
comes a range of caves facing the 
E., divided into two compartment* 
by a partition in the middle. On 
the back wall is a row of seated 
Dhyani Buddhas and some new 
images of Jaina Deva. At the E. 
end is an altar of masonry, on 
which are ranged a number of 
Jain images. The second com- 
partment is very similar. On the 
back wall is a row of Dhyani 
Buddhas i ft. high, and below% 
females seated on stools, some 
four-handed, others eight-handed, 
wuth one leg crossed and the other 
hanging. Under all are lions 
cotichani. 

From this to the top of the hill 
is a stiff climb, and the steps in one 
place are very steep. On the 
summit of the hill is a plateau 
and an i8th - century temple to 
Parasnath. From it is a magni- 
ficent panoramic view* 15 m. all 
round. The groves of mango 
and jack trees are most beautiful. 
In front of the temple is a fine 
terrace, 50 ft. sq , with a raised 
masonry seat all round. To the 
S.W. of the temple is a smooth 
terrace of 150 ft. diameter, gently 
sloping to the W,, called the Deva 
Sabha. In the centre is a small 
square pillar, with a bas-relief of 
Buddha on each side, and round 
it four circles of chaityas. Three 
small boulders, set in a triangle 
and covered by a dolmen of sand- 



44S ROUTE 25. CALCUTTA TO 

i>toiie, stand in the inner circle. 

E. of the Deva Sabha, at 100 yds., 
is a tank cut in the solid rock, 
called the Akasha Ganga, or 
'' Heavenly Ganges/’ Immedi- 
ately below the tank is a cave 
where the remains of Rajah Leiat 
Indra Kesari are said to rest. 
These caves probably were origin- 
ally Buddhist, and were after- 
wards converted by the Jains. 

Bhubaneswar. — The first men- 
tion of Bhubaneswar, in the 
Records of the Temple of Jagan- 
nath, dates from the reign of 
Yayati, 474-526 a.d., the first of 
the Kesaris, or Eion dynasty of 
Orissa, He expelled the Yavanas, 
thought by Stirling and Hunter 
to be the Buddhists who ruled 
Orissa for 150 years after a | 
successful invasion about 300 a.d. ' 
His successors reigned in Bhuban- 
eswar until Nripati Kesari, in 
940-50 A.D., founded Cuttack and 
made it his capital. 

7000 shrines once encircled the 
sacred lake ; now but 500 remain 
in various stages of decay, ex- 
hibiting every phase of Orissan 
art from the rough conceptions 
of the 6th century, through the 
exquisite designs and ungrudging 
artistic toil of the 12th, to the 
hurried dishonest stucco imita- 
tions of the present day.'" It is 
easy to perceive that there are 
two styles of architecture which 
run side by side with one another. 
The first is represented by the 
temples of Parashuramesvara and 
Muktesvara, the second by the 
Great Temple. They are not 
antagonistic but sister styles, and 
seem to have had difierent origins. 
“ We can find affinities with the 
first two, but I know of nothing 
hke the Great Temple anywhere 
else." 

“The Great Temple^ is," says 
Mr Fergusson, ' ‘ perhaps the finest 

1 Indian Arciuiecture^ 2, 99 , where a 
plan and illubtration of the Great Temple 
will be found. 


madras: BHUBANESWAR lyidm 

example of a purely Hindu temple 
in India." Unfortunately none 
but Hindus may enter the enclo- 
sure, the high walls of which are 
7 ft. thick and of large cut stones 
without mortar. From the top. 
however, of a platform outside 
the N. wall a view of the interior 
may be obtained. Besides the 
Great Temples and the halls of 
approach to it there are also many 
smaller temples in the enclosure, 
of which a plain one, 20 ft. high, 
is the oldest ; at the N.E. corner is 
a pavilion, perhaps built for a 
music hall, but now containing 
an image of Parvati. 

The Great Temple was built by 
Leiat Indra Kesari (617-57), and 
consisted originally of only a 
vimana and porch ; the beautiful 
Nath and Bhog mandirs now in 
front of it were added between 
1090 and 1104. The presiding 
deity is Tribhubanesvara, “ Lord 
of the Three Worlds," generally 
called Bhubaneswar. He is repre- 
sented in the sanctuary by a block 
of granite 8 ft. in diameter, and 
rising 8 in. above the floor, which 
is bathed with water, milk, and 
bhang. There are tiventy - two 
dhupas, or ceremonies, daily, con- 
sisting in washing the teeth of the 
divinity, moving a lamp in front, 
dressing, feeding, etc. 

“ The Great Tower can be seen 
from outside the wall. It is 1 80 ft. 
high, and, though not so large, is 
decidedly finer in design than that 
at Tan j ore. Every inch of the 
surface is covered with carving of 
the most elaborate kind ; not only 
the divisions of the courses, the 
roll mouldings on the angles, or 
the breaks on the face of the 
tower but every individual stone 
in the tower lias a pattern carv’'ed 
upon it." Especially in the per- 
pendicular parts seen from over 
the wall, “ the sculpture is of a 
very high order and great beauty 
of design." The top of the sp>*e 
is fiat, and from the centre 
nses a cyhndrical neck, support- 
ing a ribbed dome, over which is 



ROUTE 25. BHUBANESWAR TEMPLES 


440 


placed the Kalasha or pinnacle.'* 
Twelve statues of lions seated 
support the dome, and over all is 
a broken trident. The shrine 
itself is called the Bara Dewal, 
and the original hall of approach 
to it, the Jagmohan. In front of 
the latter now is the Bhog Mandir, 
or “ Hall of Oherings," and E. of 
that the Nath Mandir, or '‘Dancing 
Hall.” It is elegant, of course, but 
differs from the style of the porch, 
in that “ all that power of expres- 
sion is gone which enabled the early 
architects to make small things look 
gigantic from the mere exuber- 
ance of labour bestowed on them ” 
(Fergusson, Ind. Arch., 2, 103). 

Outside the enclosure are many 
small subterraneous temples. The 
jungle to the S. of the Great 
Tower, to the extent of 20 acres, 
is said to be the site of Lelat Indra 
Kesari’s Palace, and exhibits 
everywhere the remains of foun- 
dations and pavements. N. of 
the temple is the very fine tank 
called Vindusagar, ‘‘Ocean Drop.” 
In the centre is a Jal Mandir, or 
” Water Pavilion,” consisting of 
several shrines, on which perch 
numerous cranes in motionless 
repose. In front of the central 
ghat of this tank there is a magni- 
ticent temple, with a porch, a more 
modem dancing - hall, and Bhog 
Mandir. All but the Bhog Mandir 
are lined with brick-red sandstone, 
elaborately sculptured. The 
temple is sacred to Vasudev, or 
Krishna, and A nania, or Balaram, 
and no pilgrim is allowed to per- 
form any religious ceremony in 
the town or to visit Bhubaneswar 
without pa)dng for permission 
here. Along the E. side of the 
tank will be noticed several 
temples of the same shape as the 
Great Temple. About J m. to the 
E.N.E. of the Ananta and Vasudev 
Temple is one, about 40 ft. high, of 
Kohtirthesvara, ” The lord of ten 
millions of sacred pools.” It is 
evidently built of stones from some 
other edifice. J m. to the E. of 
this is the Temple of Brahmesvara, 


on a high mound, formed into a 
terrace. It is most sumptuously 
carved, inside as well as out, and 
was erected at the end of the gth 
century a.d. Close to its terrace 
on the W. side is a tank called 
Brahma Kunda. N.E. is an old 
ruined temple of basalt, to Bkas~ 
karesvara, ” Sun -god,” and said to 
belong to the close of the 5 th or 
the beginning of the 6th century. 

At the N.E. corner of the Great 
Temple is a very handsome tank 
surrounded by a row of 108 
small temples, and J m, E. of 
this, beyond the Muktesvara and 
Parashuramesvara temples, is the 
once magnificent Temple of Raj 
Eani. Mr Fergusson [Ind, Arch., 
2, 103) says of it ; ” The plan is 
arranged so as to give great variety 
and play of light and shade, and, as 
the details are of the most ex- 
quisite beauty, it is one of the 
gems of Orissan Art.” It faces 
the E,, and has a porch in front, 
both of dressed brick-red sand- 
stone. The niches are filled with 
statues 3 ft. high, executed with 
great vigour and elegance. One 
pillar has three kneeling elephants 
and lions, with a Nagni or female 
Naga with her seven-headed snake 
hood. Over the doorways are 
represented the Navagraha, or 
“ nine planets.” 

About 300 yds. to the W. of the 
Raj Rani is a grove of mango- 
trees, called Siddharanya, ” Grove 
of the perfect beings.” Here 
many temples were built, of which 
more than twenty remain entire. 
Of these the most remarkable are 
Muktesvara, Kedaresvara, Sidd- 
hesvara, and Parashuramesvara. 

Muktesvara is the handsomest, 
though the smallest. It is 35 ft. 
high, and the porch 25 ft. high 
The floral bands are better exe- 
cuted than in most of the temples ; 
the bas-reliefs are sharp and im- 
pressive ; the statuettes vigor- 
ous and full of action, with drapery 
well disposed ; and the disposition 
of the whole is elegant and most 



450 


India 


ROUTE 25 CALCUTTA TO MADRAS : PUKI 


effective. Among the subjects are 
a lady mounted on a rearing 
elephant and attacking an armed 
giant ; a figure of Annapurna 
presenting alms to Siva ; females, 
half-serpents, canopied under five 
or seven - headed cobras ; lions 
mounted on elephants or fighting 
with lions ; damsels dancing or 
playing on the myidang ; an 
emaciated hermit giving lessons. 
The scroll-work, bosses, and friezes 
are worthy of note. The chamber 
of the temple is 7 ft. sq., but 
outside measures 18 ft. In front 
of the porch is a Toran 1 5 ft. high. 
It is supported on two columns 
of elaborate workmanship, unlike 
anything of the kind at Bhubanes- 
war. Over it are two reclining 
female figures. It is said that it 
is used for swinging in the Dol 
Festival. 

Kodaresvara. — Close by a tank 
behind this temple is the Kedares- 
vara Temple, and near it, against 
the outer wall of a small room, is a 
figure of Hanuman, the monkey- 
god, 8 ft. high, and one of Durga 
standing on a lion. Her statue is 
of chlorite, and has the finest 
female head to be seen in Bhuban- 
eswar. The Kedaresvara Temple 
is 41 ft. high, and has an almost 
circular ground plan ; it is prob- 
ably older than the Great Temple, 
and possibly dates from the middle 
of the 6th century. 

N.W. of Muktesvara is Siddes- 
vaxa, which is very ancient, and 
was once the most sacred spot on 
this side of Bhubaneswar. It is 
47 ft. high, and has a well-propor- 
tioned porch. 

The Parashuraiiiesvaxa, 200 yds. 
to the W. of the Muktesvara, is 
considered by Mr Fergusson [Ind. 
Arch^, 2, 97) the oldest temple at 
Bhubaneswar. “ The sculptures 
are cut with a delicacy seldom 
surpassed.” The ground plan is 
a square, the porch is oblong and 
covered with bas-reliefs represent- 


ing processions of horses and 
elephants in the upper linear bands 
under the cornice, and scenes from 
the life of Rama in the lower. 
The roof is a sloping terrace, in the 
middle of which is a clerestory 
with a sloping roof, fiat in the 
middle. As the roof stones project 
beyond the openings, neither direct 
ravs of sun nor rain can penetrate. 

The famous Dhauli or Aswa- 
tama rock, on which is inscribed 
the best-preserved set of edicts of 
King Asoka, lies between 4 m. and 
5 m. S.E. of Bhubaneswar. The 
rock, unlike that of Shahbazgarhi 
{p* 33b), is an isolated one on the 
level of the plain in front of a low 
ridge ; the face inscribed is 15 R- 
by 10 ft., and above it are the 
remains of an elephant. The 
! clearness of the inscription, which 
has been exposed to the sun and 
storms of twent>^-two centuries, i*? 
wonderful. 

283 m. Khmda Road, branch 
line to {28 m.) Puri. The great 
temple of Jagannath is seen soar- 
ing skywards long before Puri is 
reached. On the N. side of the 
line, some miles W. of Puri, may 
be seen an old Orissan bridge. 

31 1 m. from Calcutta PTJRI 
(D.B. has been leased out as 
the Seaside Hotel). The railway 
station lies to the N. of the town, 
and the Civil Station runs along 
the seashore. Steamers occasion- 
ally call at Pun, but there is no 
shelter for them, and no landing- 
place. The Circuit House is near 
the D.B. ; it is roomy, and tra- 
vellers with an introduction are 
sometimes allowed to stop there. 
The Church is about 80 yds. dis- 
tant. There are villas on the 
seaside, where the climate is very 
salubrious. 

The town of Puri is about li m. 
in breadth from E. to W., and 
si m. long from N. to S. The 
population, which has greatly 
increased since the opening of the 



ROUTE 25. PURI — JAGANATH 


railway, is 39,686 ; but during the 
great festivals this number is 
increased by 100,000 pilgrims. 
The town covers an area of 1871 
acres, including the Kshetra,'^ or 
“sacred precincts." It is a city 
of lodging-houses, and the streets 
are mean and narrow, except the 
Baradand, or road for the Car of 
Jaganath, when, he goes from his 
temple to his country-house. This 
road runs through the centre of 
the town N. and S., and is in places 
half a furlong v^ide. The endow- 
ments of the temple provide a 
total annual income of Rs.70,000, 
and the offerings of pilgrims 
amount to Rs. 150,000 a-year, as 
no one comes empty-handed. The 
richer pilgrims heap gold and silver 
and jewels at the feet of the god ; 
every one gives beyond Iiis ability, 
and many cripple their fortunes 
for the rest of their lives. It may 
be remembered that when dying 
Maharaja Ran jit Singh of the 
Panjab bequeathed the Koh-i-Nur 
to Jaganath, but his successor 
did not give effect to his bequest. 
There are more than 6000 male 
adults as priests, warders of the 
temple, and pilgrim guides, and, 
including the monastic establish- 
ments and the guides who roam 
through India to escort pilgrims, 
there are probably not less than 
20,000 men, women, and children 
dependent on Jaganath The 
immediate attendants on the god 
are divided into thirty-six orders 
and ninety-seven classes. At the 
head of all is the Raja of Khurda, 
who represents the royal house of 
Orissa, and who is the hereditary 
sweeper of the temple. There are 
distinct sets of servants to put the 
god to bed, to dress and bathe 
him, and a numerous band of 
nautch girls who sing before him. 

The town is of great antiquity, 

J whole country round rs divided into 
^hetras, the Parvati round Jaipur, the 
Hara round Kanarak., the Padma (or lotus) 
round Bhubaneswar, and the Parushot- 
tama round Puri. See the very interesting 
account of Orissa in the [mpena! Gazetteer . 


43 1 

and was probably the Dantpura 
where the sacred relic of Buddha’s 
tooth was preserved and was 
finally transferred to Ceylon, 

The title Jaganath (Juggur- 
nath) (Sanskrit = “ Lord of the 
Universe “) is really a name of 
Knshna, worshipped as Vishnu ; 
the immense popularity of the 
shrine was due to the doctrine 
artfully preached that before the 
god all castes were equal. The 
image so called is an amorphous 
idol, a rudely-carved log,^ which 
some learned men believe to have 
been a Buddhist symbol, adopted 
as an object of Brahmanical 
worship This idol is annually 
dragged in procession on a great 
car (Rath), and as crowds of 
fanatic pilgrims used to rush for- 
ward to draw it, fatal accidents 
used to occur occasionally, and 
in some instances also votaries 
were known to throw themselves 
beneath the advancing wheels. 
The number of such accidents and 
suicides, however, has been greatly 
exaggerated in the popular imagin- 
ation, and since Orissa came under 
British rule the former have been 
reduced to a minimum. The 
annual mortality of the pilgrims 
used, however, to amount to many 
thousands, and a spread of cholera 
constantly followed their disper-- 
sion from Puri. Of late years 
much has been successfully done 
to improve the sanitation and 
water-supply of the place. 

The Temple, Sri Mandir, is situ- 
ated in the centre of the town, 
nearly i m. as the crow flies 
from the D.B. It stands upon 

1 Strictly speaking there are three of these 
idols— VI7.. Jaganath, his brother Balab- 
hadra, and his sister Subhadra on an altar 
called the Ratna Bedi, or “jewel seat.” The 
idols are decked with fine jewellery and gaudy 
dresses, and a large diamond glitters on the 
head of Jaganath. Bhog, or “ Prasad,” is 
offered tu the idobgod several times a'da>, 
piled up before him, and afterwards sold to 
pilgrims and the public. Quaint representa- 
tions of them in a wooden shrine may be 
bought in the bazar. 




Sea]*? eOOf^toflielncl, 

Plan of Temple of Jaganath. (Fergusson, Ind, Arch., 2 , io8.> 


of pilgrims within, but not the 
temples, of which, besides the 
Great Pagoda, there are more 
than a hundred, thirteen of them 
being sacred to Siva and one to 
the Sun. It is, of course, strictly 
closed to all non-Hindus, but the 
tower and front and the scene at 
the entrance can be comfortably 
viewed from the roof of a lodging- 
house on the opposite side of the 


35 ft. high. The Lion Gate (E.). 
on entering which the pilgrims are 
slightly struck with a wand by an 
official, has its name from two 
large lions of the conventional 
form, with one paw raised, which 
stand one at either side of the 
entrance. Within is a second 
enclosure surrounded by a double 
wall, having an interval of ii ft. 
between the walls, and within this 







ROUTE 25. JAGANATH 


453 


again is the temple proper. The 
“Hall of Offerings/’ or BhogMandiv 
(D.)/ is said to have been built 
by the Mahrattas in the last cen- 
tury at a cost of 40 lakhs of 
rupees. It was part of the Black 
Pagoda of Kanarak, and was 
brought thence by them. The Nah 
Mandir (C), or “dancing-hall/’ 
also of late date, is a square hall 
measuring 69 ft. by 67 ft. inside. 
The walls are plain, with only two 
figures of dwarpals, called Java 
and Vijaya, and a marble figure of 
Garuda 2 ft. high. 

The Jagmohan (B), or " Hall of 
Audience/’ where the pilgrims see 
the idols, is 80 ft. sq. and 120 ft. 
high. The Baradewal (A), or 
“Sanctuary, “ where the idols are, is 
also 80 ft. sq , and is surmounted 
by a lofty conical “ tower ’’ or 
vimana 192 ft. high, black with 
time and surmounted by the 
Wheel and Flag of Vishnu. 

The idols themselves — that is to 
say, Jaganath, with his brother 
Balabhadra and his sister Sub- 
hadra — are mere logs, without 
hands or feet, coarsely carved into 
a likeness of the human bust. 
The date of the erection of the 
temple is 1174 to 1198, and it cost 
about half a million sterling ; but 
it has since been repeatedly 
repaired, greatly to “ the rum of 
it as a work of art.” The building 
of H98 was a reconstruction by 
Raja Anang Bhim Deo, in expia- 
tion of the offence of having killed 
a Brahman. The idol of Jaga- 
nath is said to have appeared 
about 318 A.D. 

There is a street about 45 ft. 
oroad all round the temple enclo- 
sure. Turning to the left from 
the Lion Gate along this road, 
the visitor comes to the S. gate, 
where steps lead up to the 
entrance. The entrance itself is 
15 ft. high, and is ornamented 
with many figures. Above are 
depicted scenes from the life of 


‘ Thci^e letters refer 
letters on the plan 


to corre-SpontUng 


Krishna. The supports of the 
massive roof are of iron. 

Rather more than a mile to the 
N. of the temple, and approached 
by the broad Baradand — a pic- 
turesque ^assy route in the cold 
weather — is the famous Garden 
House, to which the Car of Jaga- 
nath is brought at the Car Festival 
in June or July, and there it stays 
for eight days during the festival, 
until it is drawn back to the 
temple. The house is a temple 
within a garden enclosed with a 
wall 15 ft. high. The principal 
gateway faces the temple, and has 
a pointed roof, adorned with con- 
ventional lions. The gates to this 
temple are built upon the Hindu 
arch system, with a series of slabs 
supporting the roof, each a little 
longer than the other, and pro- 
jecting beyond it. The temple is 
said to be very old, but it has not 
much pretension to architectural 
beauty exteriorly ; the interior, 
however, which strangers are per- 
mitted to enter, is interesting., as 
giving one an idea of the arrange- 
ment of the Great Temple. In 
one of the pillared haUs kneels a 
Garuda on a column facing the 
shrine. On the side of the temple 
there is a plain raised seat 4 ft. 
high and 19 ft. long, made of 
chlorite, and this is called the 
Ratna Bedi, the throne on which 
the images are placed when 
brought to the temple. On the 
walls are some fine carvings of 
horsemen, etc. Outside, over the 
door, are various figures of women, 
2 ft, high, supporting the roof ; 
also carvings of Brahma with four 
heads, worshipping Narayan ; of 
Krishna playing to the Gopis, etc. 

The great Car in which the 
journey of the god is made is 
45 ft. high and 35 ft. sq., and is 
supported on sixteen wheels of 
7 ft. diameter. The brother and 
sister of Jaganath have separate 
cars a few feet smaller. The Car 
is dragged by 4200 professionals, 
who come from the neighbouring 
districts, and during the festival 



India 


ROUTE 25. CALCUTTA TO MADRAS! PURI 


454 

live at Puri gratis. It is broken 
up at intervals, when the timbers 
are made into sacred relics, and an- 
other is made of exactly the same 
pattern. The idols of the Great 
Temple are also treated in this way. 

The legend is that King Indra- 
dyumna. King of Malwa, pitched 
his camp here when he discovered 
Puri, and set up an image of Nar- 
singh. Here the Sacred Log from 
the White Island stranded, and 
here the Divine Carver made the 
images of Jaganath, etc., and here 
Indradyumna performed the horse 
sacrifice a hundred times over. 

I m. S.W., on the sea-shore S. of 
the Circuit House, is the Swarga 
Dwara, or “ Door of Paradise,” 
where, when all the ceremonies are 
finished, the pilgrims bathe in the 
surf and wash away their sins. 
There is a stump of a pillar 4 ft. 
high on the right hand, near a 
small temple. On this pillar 
offerings are placed, which are 
eaten by the crows. On the left 
is the Lahore Math or Monastery. 
Within the enclosure is a well with 
excellent fresh water. Hundreds 
of men and w'omen will be seen 
bathing, the surf rolling over them 
in its fury. Afterwards they 
make heaps of sand and stick 
pieces of wood into them. 

N.W. of the city, on the way to 
the Garden Temple, are the Chan- 
dan Tank and Temple, the Mitiani 
Tank, the Markhand Tank' and 
Temple, and a Bridge built, 
according to Raja Rajendra Lai 
Mitra, in 1038-50. It is 278 ft. 
long by 38 ft. broad, and has 
nineteen arches. 

18 m. N.E. from Pun is 
Eanarak. celebrated for its Black 
Pagoda (c. 1250-60), which every 
one should visit in spite of the 
discomforts of a night journey m 
a palanquin. A relay of bearers 
should be sent on half-way ; pro- 
visions and drinking-water must 
be taken. Cost — about Rs.15 to 
Rs.i6. 

Recent excavations at Kanarak 


have led to a much higher appre- 
ciation of the great temple, which 
is fibred in Fergusson's Indian 
Architecture (i, 323). The shrine 
at the W. end of it has been cleared 
of the mass of superincumbent 
ruins, and it is now possible to 
reahse the splendid carvings on 
it, including the grand wheels and 
horses, which indicate the fact 
that the temple was the chariot 
of the Sun god, to whom it was 
dedicated. There are a number 
of very fine carved figures of green 
chlorite on the walls, but, unhap- 
pily, much of the decoration is of 
a licentious character ; inside is 
a beautifully - carved throne, on 
which the idol once stood. In 
front of the shrine is the Jagmohan 
porch. It has a square base of 
go ft , is built of red laterite, and 
is called black on account of the 
shadow it casts. The roof is 
excessively beautiful, and covered 
with elaborate carvings free from 
all objectionable features, and Mr 
Fergusson says of it (Ind. Arch., 
2, 107) that there is no roof in 
India where the same play of 
light and shade is obtained, with 
an equal amount of richness and 
constructive propriety. Mr Fer- 
gusson adds {loc. cit.) of this 
building : ” Internally the cham- 
ber is singularly plain, but presents 
some constructive peculiarities 
worthy of attention. On the 
floor it is about 40 ft. square, and 
the walls rise plain to about the 
same height. Here it begins to 
bracket inwards, till it contracts 
to about 20 ft., where it was ceiled 
with a flat stone roof, supported 
by wrought-zyon beams ^ . . show- 
ing a knowledge of the properties 
and strength of the material that 
would be remarkable were it not 
that they seem to be formed of 
blocks of short lengths, 3 in. or 4 in. 
square, built together, like bricks, 
and then covered with molten 
metal. The employment of these 
beams here is a mystery. They 
Were notw^anted for strength, as the 
building is still firm after they have 



ROUTE 25. KANARAK BLACK PAGODA — CHILKA LAKE 


fallen, and so expensive a false 
ceiling was not wanted architec- 
turally to roof so plain a chamber. 
It seems to be only another 
instance of that profusion of 
labour which the Hindus loved 
to lavish on the temples of their 
gods’" (Ind. Arch,, 2, 107). The 
entrance of the Jagmohan is on 
the E. side, guarded by two stone 
lions, with strongly-marked manes 
and one paw lifted up, resting on 
the backs of elephants, which are 
smaller in size. The height of the 
entrance is 16^ ft, ; the roof was 
supported by two rafters of iron 
and four of stone In front of 
the entrance, amongst the stones, 
lay a bar of iron 23 ft. long and 
11 "2 m. thick and broad. ^ The 
interior of the hall has now been 
completely filled up in order to 
save the outer walls. As the E. 
door is guarded by lions, the N 
door is bv elephants, and the S. 
by horses trampling down men, 
who irom their tusk-hke teeth, I 
crisped hair, knives, and shields, ! 
are intended for aborigines. The 
spirit with which the horses are 
carved, and also the device on 
one of the shields of two climbing 
lizards, should be noticed. Ac- 
cording to tradition the temple 
was dedicated by Sambhu, son of 
Krishna, on being cured here of 
leprosy. 

Stirhng fixes the date of the 
Black Pagoda in the year 1241 ; 
it is certainly of the 13th century 
a.d. The spire was never com- 
pleted. When Fergusson visited 
Kanarak in 1837 a portion of the 
Great Tower was still standing. 
He was of opinion that the 
destruction of it was owing, not 
to earthquakes, but to the nature 
of the soil, which was not solid 
enough to bear so enormous a 

^ Other instances of the employment of 
large^ masses of iron occur at Dhar and ai 
Ti? Minar of Delhi (pp. 124 and 277). I 
ihese iron beams have probably somethin;^ 
to do with the fable that there was once 
a lodestone in the tower of the temple, 
HQich used to draw passing ships on to the 
shore. 


455 

structure. To the S. of the 
Jagmohan is a very large banyan- 
tree, under which is a good place 
for the traveller to take his meal ; 
and near the great tree is a grove 
of palms and smaller trees, and a 
garden with a math, or devotee’s 
residence. Over the E. entrance 
used to be a chlorite slab, on 
which the emblems of the days of 
the week, with the ascending and 
descending nodes, were carved. 
Some English antiquaries at- 
tempted to remove this for the 
Museum at Calcutta, but, after 
dragging it 200 yds , gave up 
the attempt, though the Indian 
builders, after excavating the block 
in the lulls and carving it, had 
carried it 80 m. across swamps 
and unbridged rivers to Kanarak 
It hes now about 200 yds. to the 
E. of the temple, and is 20 ft. 2 in. 
long, 4. ft. deep, and 4 ft, 10 in. 
broad It is sadly disfigured with 
oil and red paint, with which the 
Hindus have bedaubed it. The 
sea, about 2 m. off, i.s only visible 
irom the debris of the temple. 


327 m. from Calcutta is Balugan. 
I'lom here the railway line skirts 
the fine Chilka Lake, some of the 
scener}’ along which is of great 
beauty — in the background be- 
ing the j ungle - clad hills of the 
Eastern Ghats, while the lake 
itself is dotted with islands on 
which, as on the mainland, game 
of all kinds abounds, and in the 
cold season has a surface crowded 
with wild-fowl. The lake is 45 m 
long, averages 10 m. in width, is 
separated by a narrow stretch of 
sand from the sea, and is shallow, 
seldom exceeding 6 ft. in depth ; 
tile water is brackish, and there is 
a very slight tide at the Southern 
end, the sea running into 
it at ^lanikpatnam. Trade is 
earned on in flat-bottomed boats 
of peculiar structure with lateen* 
•^ails of bamboo - matting. At 
Ramblia there is a large house on 
the margin of the lake built by 



India 


456 ROUTE 25. CALCUTTA TO MADRAS.' VIZIAXAGKAM 


Mr Snodgrass ^ in 1792 — ^it is 
believed from famine funds. It 
is now the property of the Raja 
of Kalikota. There is a PAV.I). 
Inspection Bungalow’ at Barkul, 
picturesquely situated on the 
Western shore of the lake. Per- 
mission may be obtained for occu- 
pation of the house from the 
Superintending Engineer, Cut- 
tack. This bungalow is connec ted 
by a good road, about 3 m. long, 
with Balugan railway station. 

345 m. Kambha, picturesquely 
situated at the S. of the Chilka 
Lake. 

356 ni. Ganjam station for old 
Ganjam, situated on the Rush- 
kuliya, and formerly chief port 
and town of the District ; in the 
early part of the century it was 
ravaged by an epidemic of fever 
and abandoned in consequence. 
The fort, which was commenced 
in 1768 by Mr Cotsford, the first 
Resident in G-anjam, still forms 
an interesting ruin, and recalls 
memories of former Residents and 
Chiefs in Council, who were 
engaged here partly in political 
and partly in commercial enter- 
prises for the East India Company. 

361 m Cbatrapur station, beau- 
tifully situated on high ground 
above the sea, headquarters of the 
District Magistrate and Collector. 
D.B. at railway station, fur- 
nished ; small golf-course. 

375 m. Berhampur (Ganjam). 
Berbampur station {R ) chief towm 
of the Ganjam District (popula- 
tion 31,456), headquarters of the 
Distrit. t J udgc ; an old Caiitou- 
ment, the troops were removed by 
Lord Kitchener in 1906. Motors 
can be hired. D.B., three rooms 
furnished ; meals supplied. Gop- 

^ This was the gentleman who extoited a 
pen.sioii from the by sweeping a 

crossing m front of the India House. 


alpur, the chief seaport of the Gan- 
jam District, is 9 m. by road. 
Chief buildings are the" Jubilee 
Hospital, Town Hall, Kalikot 
College. It IS noted for its tussore 
silk cloths and gold-embroidered 
turbans. A motor - bus service 
runs from Berbampur to Aska {25 
m.), where there is a sugar-facto^^^ 
and to Kusselkonda {50 m ). 

Mahendragiri, the highest point 
of the Eastern Ghats, in the 
Ganjam District, has on its top 
five unique structures built of 
massive stone. One of these is 
dedicated to the god Siva. There 
IS also a stone pillar on which are 
engraved the figure of a tiger, two 
fish, and an inscription. The 
Choias of Tanjore, whose crest w'as 
the tiger, once extended thrir 
sway right up to Mahendrapri, 
and even beyond. The pih^-y 
under reference still bears testi- 
mony to it. There is a private 
bungalow at the summit of the 
mountain, belonging to the Raja 
of Maudasa. 

437 m. Naupada junction, 
branch line to (25 m.) Parlaki- 
medi. 

466 m. Chioacole Boad station. 
There is a motor^bus service from 
the station to Ctdcacole (8 m. by 
road), a large towm which contains 
a noble mosque built in 1641 by 
Sher Muhammad Khan, the first 
Muhammadan Eaujdar of the 
Chicacole Sy-kar. It was formerly 
celebrated for its very fine muslins 
{D.B. unfurnished). Near is the 
port of Calmgapatam, a former 
centre of the Kalinga dynasty, 
now a pleasant seaside resort. 


509 m. Vizianagram (R.), the 
chief town of one of the most 
extensive Zemindari estates in 
India, and once included in 
the Kalinga kingdom. The town 
{population 37,550), founded in 



ROUTE 2 5 . WALTAIR — VIZAGAPATAM — COCAKAD A 


457 


1712, adjoins the small station on 
rising ground. The fort (i m. 
distant) is almost entirely occupied 
by the Palace Buildings, etc., of 
the Maharaja. The place, which 
is 1 6 m. from the sea, is a rising 
one. Half-way betw'een the fort 
and station is a large tank ^vith a 
constant supply of water. The 
Market was built to commemor- 
ate the visit of King Edward, 
when Prince of Wale‘s, to India 
in 1875. It was a Vizianagram 
force which, with French assist- 
ance, attacked Bobbili (the 
“Royal Tiger”) in 1756, when^ 
after putting the women to death, 
the Raja Ranga Rao fell sword in 
hand in accordance with the old 
Rajput tradition. Not long after 
four of his old retainers murdered 
the Raja of Vizianagram. 

It IS proposed to construct a 
railway from Vizianagram N. to 
Scintilla, and thence (i) N.W, to 
Raipur (p. 119), and (2) N. to 
Sambalpur andjharsuguda (p. 120J 
on the Bengal-Nagpur Railway. 

From Vizianagram the Buddhist 
remains at Ramatirthani, recently 
excavated by the Archaeological 
Department, might be visited. 
There is a good road up to the 
foot of the hill. 

547 m. Waltair junction station ; 
short branch to Vizagapatam. 
From Waltair may be visited 
Simhachalam^ with a temple on 
the hill, which is a very fine 
specimen of the Orissa style. The 
village is about 3 m. from the rail- 
way station on the B.N. Railway 
called Simhachalam. The Mzia- 
nagram Maharaja, who is the owner 
of the temple and of the village, 
provides all comforts of transport, 
lodging, etc., on previous arrange- 
ment being made with the Palace 
office, Vizianagram. There are 
fine gardens on both sides of the 
walk up the hill, which rises by 
J^entle gradation. The temple 
bears inscriptions on almost all 
the pillars and walls. These date 


from the 12th century a.o. As 
the place is malarious, a halt is 
not advisable. The great Vijay- 
anagar King Krishnaraya, who 
was ruling Southern India in the 
beginning of the i6tli century a.d. 
from his capital at Hampi, near 
Bellary, is said to have conquered 
the Kalinga country and to have 
set up a pillar of victory at, or 
near, Simhachalam This pillar 
has not been traced. 

Between Vizagapatam and 
Samalkot is the station A nakapaUi 
on the M.S.M. Railway ; and at a 
distance of about 2 m. from here 
is ihe village of Sankaram, where 
many Buddhist stupas and other 
interesting remains have recently 
been unearthed by the Archaeo- 
logical Department. 

2 m. Vizagapatam. ^ Viza^a- 
patam, the chief town (population 
43,413) of the district of that 
name, is a growing seaport, 
situated on a small estuary The 
estuary forms the only naturally 
protected harbour on the Coro- 
mandel coast ; the bar is too 
, shallow, however, to admit vessels 
I of deep draught, which have to 
anchor outside. Colonel Forde 
landed here in 1759, and drove the 
' French from the Northern Circars. 
Most of the European residents 
live in the suburb of Waltair to 
the N. of the town, wluch stands 
on elevated ground composed of 
red laterite rocks. The manufac- 
ture of panjam cloth and orna- 
mental articles of ivory, buffalo- 
horn, and silver filigree work, are 
Specialities of the district. In 
the neighbourhood are sources of 
manganese, of which 125,000 tons 
are exported yearly. 

18 m. N.E. of Vizagapatam is 
Bimlapatam (population 9314!, 
a thriving port, where coasting 
steamers touch. 

641 m. Samalkot station junction 
for (8 m.) Cocanada Town (Kaki- 
nada- “ Crow Country ”) and (10 



India 


458 ROUTE ’5 CALCUTTA TO MADRAS : BEZWADA 


m.) Cocanada Port, connected with 
the Godavari River by na\’igable 
canals. Cocanada (population, 
54,110) has no hotel, but there is a 
R.H. belonging to the Munici- 
pality. It is the principal port, 
after Madras, on the Coromandel 
coast. Ships lie in safety in the 
Roads (Coringa Bay), which, 
though shallow, are protected to 
the S. by a sandy promontory at 
the mouths of the Godavari. The 
jetties, wharves, and business 
houses are on the banks of a canal 
leading into the Roads. Trade of 
an annual value of 125 lakhs. 

672 m. Rajamundry (Rajama- 
hendri) (R.) (population 48,417) 
is the old seat of the Orissa Kings 
in the S. and of the Vengi Kings, 
and is regarded by the Telugus as 
their chief town. It contains a 
large jail, a museum, public gar- 
dens, and a provincial college. 
Historically it is chiefly interesting 
as the headquarters of N. Bussy 
from 1754-7, during which he 
held possession of the Northern 
Circars assigned to him by the 
Nizam. The Gorge, about 50 m. 
to the N.W. , wliere the Godavari 
issues from the hills, should 
certainly be seen, as it forms one 
of the most beautiful pieces of 
scenery in Southern India — a 
succession of Highland lochs in an 
Eastern setting. A few miles 
down the river from Rajamundry 
are the head-works of the magnifi- 
cent Godavari Delta Irrigation 
system, first designed by Sir 
Arthur Cotton ; the anicut, or 
dam, is a huge piece of masonry, 
4 m. in length from bank to bank, 
and is well worth a visit. In the 
middle of it is a pretty, well- 
wooded island. 

676 m. Godavari. A splendid 
railway bridge of 56 spans of 
150 ft. crosses the river here. 
This and the Krishna Bridge arc 
among the finest engineering 
works in all India. 


727 m. EUore station (R.). 
Formerly capital of the Northern 
Circars. EUore is now famous 
only for its carpets. The Goda- 
vari and Krishna Canal systems 
ioin here. 


764 m. BEZWADA junction 
(R., D.B.), terminus of the Nizam’s 
State Railway from Wadi, Hyder 
abad, and U^arangal Bezwada 
(population 32,867) is an impor- 
tant trading-place on the most 
frequented crossing of the Krishna 
River, A fort was erected here in 
1 760, but has since been dis- 
mantled. In making excavations 
for canals many remains were 
exposed, which show that the 
place Avas, in the Buddhist period, 
a considerable religious centre ; 
and as such it was visited by 
Hiuen Tsang in 637 a.d. It is 
shut in on the W. by a granite 
ridge 600 ft. high, running N. and 
S., and ending in a scarp at the 
river. At right angles to this 
ridge, and ^ m. from the stream, 
is a similar ridge sheltering the 
town on the N. Close to the K- 
end of N. ridge is a sharp-pointed 
detached mass of gneiss, on which 
are Buddhistic caves and cells 
On the S. side of the river, oppo- 
site to '^ezwada, is a hill similar 
to the ridge, of which it is a 
contin-.ation. It is 450 ft. higl>. 
and from Bezwada seems a perfect 
cone. On the S. side of the river, 
I m. to the W., is the Unda villi 
Cave -Temple. 

In the town are some old 
shrines with inscriptions from 
the 7th century downwards. The 
caves of Bezwada -unimportant — 
are hollowed out of the E. side of 
the great hill at the foot of which 
the town stands. At the Museum 
there is a colossal figure of Buddha 
in black granite, which came from 
the hill to the E. of Bezwada. 
The river is here crossed by a 
great dam, or anicttt, 3715 R- 
long and 20 ft. above the bed level. 
From both ends navigable canals 



459 


ROUTE 25. MASUUPATAM UNDAVILLI — AMARAV^ATI 


take off and irrigate about 800,000 
acres of land. 

A branch railway 49 m. long 
connects Bezwada with Masuli- 
patain (Machhli-patnam or Fish 
Town”; population 42,123), the 
headquarters and the principal 
port of the Kribluia District. It 
was taken by the Bahmani Kings 
in the 15th century, and was 
afterwards held bv the Golconda 
rulers Masulipatam was early a 
principal settlement of the E.I. 
Company for trade on the E. 
coast. An Enghsh agency was 
established here in 1611, after 
the failure of that at Pulicat, 
and a factory eleven years later ; 
the Dutch and French also had 
iactories here. There are Dutch 
tombs dating from 1624. In 
1690 a farman of the Delhi 
Emperor confirmed the English 
privileges ; in 1750 the place was 
made over by the Nizam to the 
French, but was carried by storm 
by Colonel Forde on the night of 
7th April 1759, 500 French and 
2500 sepoys surrendering. The 
attacking force comprised only 
346 European troops and 1400 
sepoys — little more than half the 
strength of the defenders. This 
victory, one of the most brilliant 
ever accomplished by British 
arms, was the turning - point in 
the long conflict between French 
and Enghsh for the Empire of 
India. The fort is now dis- 
mantled. The chintzes of Masuli- 
patam were once famous The 
C.M.S. has an important centre 
here, with a college, affiliated to 
the Madras University. 


EACursions from Bezwada. 

(i) In order to reach Undavilli 
village it is necessary to cross the 
Erishna from Bezw'ada by the 
5 ‘ailway or anicut, and go m. 
the course of the river above 


and W. of Sitanagaram. There is 
a rock-temple of two storeys close 
to the village. Farther round the 
hill, in a recess to the S. and facing 
N., is the interesting five-storeyed 
Brahman excavation known as 
the Undavilli Cave. The upper 
storeys are all set back, one above 
the other, and there is no doubt 
the facade of the cave is meant to 
represent the exterior of some 
structural building. The lowest 
storey across the whole front has 
three rows of seven pillars par- 
tially hewn out. The second 
originally had four compartments ; 
at the back of one of these is a 
shrine ceil vith an altar, and in 
another is a relief of Vishnu and 
his wives. The fa9ade on the 
front here has a frieze of geese, 
and a cell at the left end one of 
elephants and lions. The third 
storey contains a hall 53 ft. by 
36 ft., with a figure of Vishnu 
seated on the serpent Ananta, and 
of Narayana, 17 ft. long, resting 
on the great snake Shesha. The 
top storey consists of circular 
domes of the shape used in aU 
Dravidian temples. The fifth 
storey, which was never completed 
across the whole front, is the lowest 
of all, to the right of the flight of 
steps up to the cave. The date 
of the excavation must be much 
the same as those of Mamalla- 
puram (Route 36) — viz., 700 a.D. 

{2) 17 m. of Bezwada by 
road is Amaravati, on the right, or 
S., bank of the Krishna River, once 
the capital of the Andhra king- 
dom. It is a place of much book 
interest to antiquarians as an 
ancient centre of the Buddhist 
religion, and the site of a great 
tope ; ^ but scarcely anything 
remains in situ now, and what 
remains is not worth a visit. The 
beauty of the tope can be judged 
of from the splendid portions of 

1 See Fergusson’s History o/ Indian 
Arckitecture, vol. i, pp. 8o. 112, 11Q-123, 
.T.iid Tree and Serpent Worship, and Dr J 
ISurgess’s Amaravati txad Ja^^ayapetta 
Stu}ai, London, 1SS7 



40o 


ROUTE 26. BOMBAY TO MADRAS 


India 


it in the British and Madras 
Museums. 

N. and N.W. of Amaravati are 
the sites of former diamond 
workings, all on the N. bank of 
the river. 

Immediately S. of Bezwada is 
the Krishna Bridge, 1200 yards 
long outside abutments, with a 
depth of foundations 80 ft. below 
low water ; it cost Rs.4, 247,1^50, 

810 m, Bapatla (R.). 

850 m. Ongole (R.). 

901 m. Bitragxmta (R.). 

923 m. Nellore (R.), chief 
town of the District, stands on the 
right bank of the River Pennar, 
8 m. from its mouth (population 
33,246). In the ruins of a Hindu 
Temple was found a pot of Roman 
gold coins and medals of the 2nd 
century. There are here Missions 
of the Roman Catholics, Ameri- 
can Baptists, and Hermansburg 
Lutherans - 

946 m. Gudur (R.). Branch to 
(52 m.) Renigunta (p. 478). 

1010 m. Ponneri (R.). 

1021 m. Ennur, still a popular 
week-end resort from Madras, on 
a large backwater. A furnished 
bungalow can, as a favour, be 
obtained, and other bungalows are 
available. There are good boating 
and bathing. 

1032 m. from Calcutta is Madras 
Central Station. 


ROUTE 26. 

B0:MB AY to MADRAS by Kalyan 
Junction, the Bhor Ghat, Karli, 
Hotgi Junction, Poona, Shola- 
pur, Gulbarga, Wadi Junction, 
Eaichur, Guntakal Junction, 
Eeniffunta Junction, Arkonam 
Junction, with excursions by 
road to Maiheran, the Caves of 
Karli and Bhaja, and by rail 
to Ahmadnagar and Tirupati. 

Kail 7u4 in. Mail train about 32 houi'N in 
transit. Fare^— R5.68, Rs.34, Ks 8i 

For the journey as far as (34 
in.) Kalyan junction station, see 
Route 2 , from Kalyan the N.E. 
branch of the G.I.P, Railway goes 
up the Thai Ghat, whilst the S.E. 
branch ascends the Bhor Ghat and 
passes through Poona to Madras. 
The country below the Ghats as 
far S. as N. Kanara is known as 
the Konkan — that above the 
Ghats from the Godavari (for- 
merly from the Vindhya moun^ 
tains) to the S. as the Deccan, 
on the right hand {cf. “dextra") 
of one facing towards the sun 
rising in the East- 

Proceeding by the latter branch, 
the first station is 

38 m. Ambamath, " Immortal 
Lord,” a village of 300 inhabitants, 
which formerly gave its name to 
the Ambarnath Petha (Subdivi- 
sion of a Taluka). It is now a 
village of the Kalyan Taltika, of 
the Thana District, i m. E. is 
the Temple of Ambarnath, in a 
pretty valley. It is an object of 
considerable interest as a specimen 
of genuine Hindu architecture, 
covered with beautiful designs, in 
which birds and the heads of the 
lion of the South are introduced. 





Loiulou Jolui Alljcijun lo Sn*oet 




ROUTE 26. MATHERAN KARJAT— BHOR GHAT 


The roof of the hall is supported 
by four richly - carved columns. 
The pediment of the doorway 
leading into the vimana (shnne) 
IS ornamented with elephants and 
lions, and in the centre with 
figures of Siva. A curious bell 
of beautiful carving runs up each 
face of the vimana. An inscrip- 
tion inside the lintel ot the N 
door gives the date of the building 
f/f the temple as = 860 a.d 

54 m. Neral station (R.). For 
IVIatlieraii leave the rail here, and 
ride or dandi up 8 m. in ij 
hrs., or take the steam tramway 
'2 ft. gauge) to Matheran, 13 m. 
Fares — Rs.4, 8 as. and R.i. 4 as. 

Matheran, “ the wooded head,” 

“mother forest,” is an outlier of 
the Sahyadri range, varying from 
2300 ft. to 2600 ft. above the sea- 
level, and is an agreeable airy 
dimmer resort for the people of 
Bombay. The crown of the hill 
’vhere the station is situated forms 
a narrow undulating tableland 
running N. and S., thickly covered 
Hitli small tree growth, with spurs 
''t para ted by ravines on all sides, 
with precipitous slopes everywhere, 
''Ometimes 1500 ft. high, the spurs 
terminating abruptly in blufts 
called ” points.” Among the 
hnest of these are Porcupine, Hart, 
and Monkey Points to the N \V., 
irom which Bombay Harbour can 
he seen, Chauk Point, the S, ex- 
tremity, where the old load of 
ascent emerges : and several 
points on the E. from which Khan- 
ddla and the Ghats are visible 
The finest of all is Panorama Point, 
to the N. of the bungalows. The 
distance is a little over 4 m Thr 
road leads through a thick jungle 
of beautiful th^s, and about ^ m 
from Panorama Point comes to a : 
point parallel with Porcupine 
^oint, w’here a precipice descends 
^bruptly 1000 ft. At 100 yds. 
from its termination the road goes 
^uite round the brow of the peak, 
^nd affords an extremely beautiful 
Panoramic view of the country j 


461 

I from which the point gets its 
I name To the left are Hart 
I Point and Porcupine Point, at 
I the X and X' W. extremities of 
j a promontory shaped like the head 
i of a battle-axe. Between Mathe- 
ran and Prabal the mountain sinks 
do^\Tl abruptly to the plain. From 
Panorama Point the Bawa Malang 
Range, lo m. long, writh strange 
cylindrical or bottle-shaped peal^, 
is visible some 15 m. to the N. 

The extreme W. end of this range 
IS knovTias the “Cathedral Rocks.” 
The huts of XTeral \rillage lie 
directly below, and beyond them is 
the curvang line of the G.T.P. Rail- 
way. Bombay and its shipping 
may be seen from this point on a 
clear day under the evening light. 

62 m. Karjat junction station. 
From here a short line runs S. 
(9 m.) to Campoli, but it is only 
used in the dry season. At Kar- 
jat the engine is changed for one 
I much more powerful to ascend the 
Bhor Ghat, w’hich begins i m. from 
Karjat. The gradient is i in 42, 
and even r in 37, and all the trains 
are furnished with powerful 
brakes. The line first rises up 
the slope of the long spur which 
ends m the hill called Londgiri, 
which encloses the N. side of the 
Campoli Valley, in which is situ- 
ated the Power-House for the Tata 
Hydro-Electric Works, and at the 
height of 1000 ft. passes by a 
tunnel to another wooded valley 
on the X"., which soon terminates 
in an extremely fine and beauti- 
fully-wooded ravine. Along the 
S. side of this the line proceeds to 
the Reversing Station, 1350 ft. 
above the sea, situated on an ele- 
vated spur, affording grand views 
of the ravine all the way From 
the station which, by a projected 
realignment, will soon be aband- 
oned, can be seen the curious sheer 
rock called “the Duke's nose,” 
and by the people X^agphudi (the 
Cobra's Hood). In the rains innum- 
erable waterfalls may be seen shoot- 
ing and streaming down the ravine 



ROUTE 2 f>. BOMBAY TO MADRAS : KHANDALA 


India 


462 

sides, several near the head of it 
being very grand ; and at all times 
of the year this part of the Ghat 
is extremely beautiful, and should 
certainly be visited. Indeed, the 
series of precipitous hillsides of 
sheer rocks form in the monsoon 
almost a continuous waterfall, sur- 
rounded by vivid green vegetation . 
From the Reversing Station the 
line winds round again to the E. 
side of the Campoli Valle}^ and 
makes its way round the crest of 
the tableland to Khandala, which 
stands at the head of the ravine, 
and is visible as the train ascends. 
The length of the ascent is nearly 
16 m., over which there are 
twenty-six tunnels, with a length 
of 2500 yds., eight viaducts, and 
many smaller bridges ; the actual 
height accomplished by the ascent 
is 1850 ft., and the cost of con- 
structing the line was nearly 
_j^6oo,ooo. The Power Station of 
the Tata Co. is situated at the foot 
of a fall of some 1700 ft. by which 
the water from the lakes at the top, 
near Lonauli, descends in mighty 
steel pipes, lying on the rocks at a 
steep angle, in successive stages. 
Here five huge turbines generate a 
current at 5000 volts, transformed 
in the station to a pressure of some 
40,000 volts, soon to be increased 
to 60,000, which is conveyed by 
six wires on ironwork towers to 
Bombay, a distance of some 70 m., 
where it supplies mills, tramways, 
and light. 


78 m. Khandala (Public Works 
Department Bungalow, for the use 
of officials on tour). This beau- 
tiful village is a favourite retreat 
for the inhabitants of Bombay 
from the distressing heat of the 
summer months. The site is well 
chosen : it overlooks the great 
ravine, the sheer depth of which is 
in great part concealed by luxuri- 
ant trees. Above the head of the 
ravine, to the S. is the magnificent 
hill called the Duke's Nose, whence 
is a fine view over the Konkan. 


The ascent is by the S. shoulder, 
and is very steep. There is a Con- 
valescent Home at Khandala in 
connection with the European 
General Hospital, Bombay. 

The Waterfall on the right side 
of the ravine, near its head, is very 
fine in the rains, the upper of the 
two falls into which it is divided 
having a clear leap of 300 ft. 

80 m. Lonauli station (R-)- 
Here are the G.I.P. Railway Com- 
pany's School and Church, and a 
large European community of rail- 
way servants. The storage and 
head-works of the Tata Electro- 
Hydraulic Scheme for Bombay are 
situated at Lonauli (p- 2 1 ) . A trav- 
eller desiring to see the great cave 
at Karli (7^ m.) and the caves of 
Bhaja (6J m.) should, unless he is 
prepared to walk 8 m. to 10 m. (and 
even then the trains which stop 
at Malavli station may not prove 
very convenient) , arrange to make 
the expedition from Lonauli by 
tonga, which in fair weather can 
go off the Great Trunk Road S. to 
the Malavli station, f m. distant 
from the caves of Bhaja, and N- to 
the base of the rocky ridge of the 
Karh cave. At ordinary times, 
therefore, one can drive comfort- 
ably to the foot of the Karli cave 
and nearly to Bhaja. The ascent 
to the former is nearly 400 ft. by 
a good path, with a fairly easy 
gradient ; if a pony is desired for 
this, it must be sent out from 
Lonauli. 

85 m. Malavli station ^ (District 
Bungalow, for the use of officials 
on tour). The celebrated cave is 
on a hill about 4 m. from the 
station. 

The following is an abstract of 
Mr Fergusson's description of it: ^ 
“ The cave of Karli is certainly 
the largest, as well as the most 
complete, chaitya cave in India, 
and was excavated at a time 

f Rock‘C^ii Temples 0/ India, p. 17. 
also Indian Architecture, i, 142. 



ROUTE 26. THE KARLI CAVE 


when the style was in its greatest , 
purity, and is fortunately the best 
preserved. Its interior dimensions 
are 124 ft. 3 in. in total lengtli. 
81 ft. 3 in. length of nave. Its ' 
breadth from wall to wall is 
45 ft. 6 in., while the width of the 
central aisle is 25 ft. 7 in. The 
height is only 46 ft. from the floor 
to the apex.” The same writer 
says : “ The building resembles 

an early Christian church in its 
arrangements, while all the dimen- 
sions are similar to those of the 
choir of Norwich Cathedral.” 
The nave is separated from the 
side aisles by fifteen columns with 
octagonal shafts on each side, of 
good design and workmanship. 
On the abacus which crowns the 
capital of each of these are tw'o 
kneeling elephants, and on each 
elephant are two seated figures, 
generally a male and female, with 
their arms over each other's , 
shoulders, but sometimes two 
female figures in the same atti- 
tude The sculpture of these is 1 
very good, and the effect particu- 
larly rich and pleasing. Behind 
the altar are seven plain octagonal [ 
piers without sculpture, making 
thus thirty - seven pillars alto- 
gether, exclusive ot the Lion 
Pillar in front, which is sixteen- 
sided, and is crowned with four 
lions with their hinder parts 
joined. The dagoba is plain and j 
very similar to that in the large ! 
cave at Ajanta, but here, for- . 
tunately, a part of the wooden ' 
umbrella wMch surmounted it I 
remains. The wooden ribs of the j 
roof, too,* remain nearly entire, 
proving beyond doubt that the 
roof is not a copy of a masonry 
urch ; and the framed screen, 
filling up a portion of the great 
arch in front, like the centring 
of the arch of a bridge (which it 
much resembles), still retains the 
place in which it w’-as originally 
placed. At some distance in 
advance of the arched front of 
this cave is placed a second screen, 
which exists only here and at the 


463 

great cave at Kanheri, though it 
might have existed in front of the 
oldest chaitya caves at Ajanta. 
It consists of two plain octagonal 
columns with pilasters. Over 
these IS a deep plain mass of wall, 
occupying the place of an entab- 
lature, and over this again a 
superstructure of four dw^arf pil- 
lars. Except the lower piers, the 
whole of this has been covered 
with wooden ornaments ; and, 
bv a careful examination and 
measurement of the various mor- 
tices and footings, it might still 
be possible to make out the greater 
part of the design. It appears, 
however, to have consisted of a 
broad balcony in front of the plain 
w^all, supported by bold wooden 
brackets from the two piers, and 
either roofed or having a second 
balcony above it. No part of the 
wood, however, exists now, either 
here or at Kanheri. It is more 
than probable, however, that this 
Avas the music gallery or Nakkar 
Khana, which we still find exist- 
ing in front of almost all Jain 
temples, down even to the present 
day. Whether the space between 
this outer and the inner screen 
was roofed over or not is extremely 
difficult to decide. To judge from 
the mortices at Kanheri, the space 
there would seem to have had a 
roof ; but here the evidence is by 
no means so distinct, though there 
is certainly nothing to contradict 
the supposition. There are no 
traces of painting in this cave, 
though the inner wall has been 
plastered, and may have been 
painted ; but the cave has been 
inhabited, and the continued 
smoke of cooking -fires has so 
blackened its walls that it is im- 
possible to decide the question. 
Its inhabitants were Saivites, and 
! the cave was considered a temple 
j dedicated to Siva, the dagoba 
' performing the part of a gigantic 
i lingam, which it resembles a good 
I deal. The outer porch is 52 ft. 

wide and 15 ft. deep. Here 
' onginallv the fronts of three 



India 


404 ROUTE 26. BOMBAY TO MADRAS 


elephants in, each end wall sup- 
ported a frieze ornamented with 
a rail pattern, but at both ends 
this has been cut away to intro- 
duce figures. Above was a thick 
quadrantal moulding, and then a 



Temple 


Cave at Karli. 

rail witti small facades of temples 
and pairs of figures. 

be of great import- 
ance if the age of this cave could 
be positively fixed ; but though 
that ^nnot quite be done, it is 
.probably antecedent to the Chris- 
tian era ; and at the same time 
It cannot possibly have been 
excavated more than 200 years 


before that era. From the Sinha- 
sthamba (lion pillar) on the left 
of the entrance Colonel Sykes 
copied an inscription, which Mr 
j Prinsep deciphered in vol. 6 of 
the Journal of the Asiatic Society. 

I It merely says : * This lion-pillar 
IS the gift of Ajmitra Ukas, the son 
of Saha Ravisabhoti ’ ; the char- 
acter, Mr Prinsep thinks, is of the 
I ist or 2nd century b.c. From its 
; position and import, the inscrip- 
; tion appears to be integral, and 
, the column is certainly a part of 
! the original design. I am inclined 
to think the date, 160 b.c., is at 
least extremely probable. 

“ It would be a subject of 
curious inquiry to know whether 
the woodw'ork now existing m 
this cave is that originally put up 
or not. Accustomed as I had 
long been to the rapid destruction 
of everything wooden in India. I 
was half inclined to be angry when 
the idea first suggested itself to 
me ; but a calmer survey of the 
j matter has convinced me that it 
I is. Certain it is that it is the 
’ original design, for we find it 
j repeated in stone in all the niches 
I of the front, and there is no 
I appearance of change or alteration 
j in any part of the roof. Ever}^ 
part of it is the same as is seen so 
t often repeated in stone in other 
! and more modern caves, and it 
must, therefore, have been put 
up by the Buddhists before they 
were expelled ; and if we allow 
that it has existed 800 or 1000 
years, which it certainly has, there 
is not much greater improbability 
in its having existed near 2000 
years, as I beUeve to be the case. 
As far as I could ascertain the 
wood is teak. Though exposed to 
the atmosphere, it is protected 
from the rain, and has no strain 
J upon it but its own weight, as it 
I does not support the roof, though 
i it appears to do so ; and the rock 
seems to have defied the industry 
of the white ants.*’ 

The principal viharas at Karh 
to the right of the entrance to the 



ROUTE 26. WARGAON — KIRKEE 


4t»5 


chaitya are three tiers in height. 
They are plain halls with cells, but 
without any internal colonnades, 
and the upper one alone possesses 
a veranda. The lower fronts 
have been swept away by great 
masses of rock which have rolled 
from above. To the left of the 
chait^^a are some smaller viharas 
and cisterns. 

The Caves of Bhaja and Bedsa.' 
— Bhaja is a village | m. S ol 
?vtala\ li railway station, and Bedsa 
IS m. E. of the Bhaja. The 
caves of Bhaja date from 200 b c . 
There are eighteen excavations, 
of which the Chaitya No. 12 is one 
of the most interesting in India 
It contains a dagoba, but no sculp- 
tures, and has itb roof supported 
by twenty-seven sloping pillars 
Outside there is a group executed 
in bas-relief, now much defaced, 
and marks show that a wooden 
front was once attached to the , 
great arch. On both sides of the 
chaitya the hill has been exca- 
vated into the usual halls of in- 
struction, with cells. A little way 1 
to the S. is a curious collection of , 
fourteen dagobas, five of which are ! 
inside and the others outside a 
cave. On the first of the latter 
there is an inscription. The last 
cave to the S , some way beyond 
the others, is a vihara 16^ ft. by 
17^ ft., decorated with excellent 
and interesting sculptures, includ- ^ 
ing one of a prince on an elephant 
and another of a prince in his 
chariot, and three armed figures. 
The caves at Bedsa lie about 
4 m. S.E. from the station be- 
yond Maiavli, and date a little 
later than Bhaja. The plan ot 
the chaitya resembles Karli, but 
is neither of so great extent nor 
so well executed, and appears 
more modern It contains a 
dagoba ; and its root, w'hich is 
ribbed and supported by twenty- 
six octagonal pillars 10 ft. high, ' 

^ A full account of these places will be 
found in Cave Temples 0/ 1 ndta^ pp. 223, 228. 


seems to have been covered with 
paintings, which are now, how- 
ever, so indistinct that nothing can 
be made out of them. There are 
four pillars about 25 ft. high in 
front, surmounted by a group of 
horses, bulls, and elephants, with 
a male and female rider upon 
them. These groups resemble 
those found on the Indo-Mithraic 
corns of the N. The hall of 
instruction has an apsidal end 
and a vaulted roof, and is situated 
close to the left of the chaitya. 
It contains eleven small cells, and 
over the door of one of them there 
IS an indistinct and partly defaced 
inscription. 


96 m. Wargaon 'station, a veiy 
large and flourishing village, cele- 
brated for the defeat of a British 
force under Lieutenant - Colonel 
Cockburn, on the I2tli and 13th 
of January 1779, and for a 
convention concluded there by 
,Mr Carnac with the Mahrattas. 
\^^argaon forms the headquarters 
of a native official called a mam- 
latdar (tahsildar), who is also a 
magistrate. 


1 16 m. Kirkee station is only 
m. from Poona, and may be 
considered part of the same place. 
It is interesting as being the scene 
of a splendid victory over Baji 
Rao II., the last Peshwa On the 
it,t of November 1S17 the disposi- 
tions of that Prince had become so 
threatening that ^Ir Elphinstone, 
then Resident at Poona, deter- 
mined to remove the troops from 
the Cantonment of that place to 
Kirkee, where, on the 5th, they 
took up a good position to the E. 
of an eminence, on which the vil- 
lage of Kirkee stands, and where 
the stores and ammunition were 
stationed. In the rear ot. the 
troops was the River IMula, and 
from the S. and W. advanced the 
masses of the Peshwa's army, 
amounting to 8000 foot, 18,000 



ROUTE BOMBAY TO MADRAS : KIRKEE 


India 


horse, and 14 guns,^ besides a 
reserve of 5000 horse and 2000 
foot with the Peshwa, at the sacred 
hill of Parbati (p. 471). The 
Cantonments at Poona and the 
Residency at the Sangam (or 
meeting of the rivers) had been 
plundered and burnt on the ist 
as soon as the British troops 
quitted them. One regiment, 
commanded by Major Ford, was 
at Dapuri, N. of Kirkee, and the 
total strength of the English, even 
when it joined, w^as, according to 
Grant Duff, but 2S00 rank and 
file, of which 800 were Europeans. 

Bapu Gokhale, who had been a 
favourite of the Duke of Welling- 
ton, commanded the Peshwa' s 
army. Its advance was compared 
by Grant Duff, an eye-witness, to 
the rushing tide called the bore 
in the Gulf of Cambay. Colonel 
Burr, who commanded the British, 
was now informed that Major 
Ford was advancing with his 
regiment from Dapuri, on the W., 
to join him ; and in order to 
facilitate the junction he moved 
the main force to a position about 
a mile in advance, and to the S.W. 
of the village of Kirkee. The 
Mahratta leaders had been tam- 
pering for some time with the 
regiment, and they fully expected 
it would come over, as it was 
paid by the Peshwa. A strong 
body of horse, therefore, under 
Moro Dikshit, the Prime Minister 
of the Peshwa, advanced about 
4 p.M. upon the Dapuri battalion, 
but Major Ford, throwing back 
his right wing, opened a heavy 
fire upon the Mahrattas, both of 
musketry and from three small 
guns commanded by Captain 
Thew. A good many Mahrattas 
fell, and among them Moro 
Dikshit. In the meantime Gokhale 
had organised an attack on the 
left fiank of the British main force, 
and .this was led by a regular 
battalion commanded by a Portu- 
guese named De Pento ; and after 
his discomfiture a select body of 

1 Grant Du^t 3, 427. 


6000 horse, with the Jan Patka, or 
golden pennon, flying at their 
head, charged the 7th Native 
Infantry as they were pursu- 
ing De Pento’s men. Go^ale’s 
horse was "wounded in this charge, 
and his advance was stopped ; 
but there were other gallant 
leaders — such as Naro Pant Apte 
and IMahadeo Rao Rastia — and it 
was "well for the sepoys that a 
swamp in their front checked the 
charge of the Mahrattas, whose 
horsemen rolled headlong over 
one another m the deep slough. 
As it was, some cut their way 
through the sepoy battalion ; 
but, instead of turning back,' when 
they might have destroyed the 
regiment, they rode off to plunder 
the village of Kirkee, whence they 
were repulsed by a fire of grape. 
After this charge the Mahrattas 
drew ofi with a total loss of about 
500 men, while that of the British 
was but 86. On the 13th General 
Smith's army arrived from Sirur, 
and the Peshwa, after a slight 
resistance, retreated with his army. 
The most remarkable point in the 
Battle of Kirkee was, perhaps, the 
extraordinary steadiness of Major 
Ford’s regiment under great temp- 
tation. In it were upwards of 
seventy Mahrattas, yet not a man 
deserted on the day of battle, 
though promised vast sums to 
join their countrymen. After the 
action the Mahrattas, but only 
the Mahrattas, joined the enemy. 

Kirkee is the headquarters of a 
brigade of Field Artillery. \ m. 
N.E. of the barracks is the Small 
Arms Ammunition Factory, and to 
the N. is the Arsenal (permission 
to enter either must be obtained 
from the officer in charge). 

Christ Church, Kirkee, in the 
^tillery Lines, was consecrated 
in 1841, There are two colours 
of the 23rd Regiment Bombay 
Native Infantry inside the W. 
door. Amongst the memorial 
tablets is one to thirty officers of 
the 14th King’s Light Dragoons, 
who died or were killed between 



ROUTE 26. POONA 


467 


1S41 and 1859, and another to 
ninety non-commissioned officers 
of the same regiment. 

N.E. of the Artillery Mess is 
67 Vincent De Paul's Roman 
Catholic Chapel. 

One of the most interesting 
spots at Kirkee, passed on the 
road to Poona, is Holkar's Bridge, 
over the Mula River, a stream 
which encircles Kirkee on the 
K., E., and S. In the floods of 
July 1912 this bridge was several 
feet under water. The river is 
200 yds. broad at this spot. On 
the right of the road is an old 
English cemetery, and on the ■ 
left, about 300 yds. to the N., is 
the New Burial Ground. After 
crossing the Mula the road passes 
on the right the chhatri of Khande ' 
Rao Holkar, and on the left are 
the Sappers’ and Miners’ Lines, 
and after them the Peccan College 
and the lines of a Regiment of 
Pioneers, right. Beyond these 1 
are the Jamsetji Bund, the Fitz- i 
gerald Bridge, and the Bund Gar- \ 
dens, for all of which, see below 
under Poona. 


Government House is at Ganesh 
Khind, i^m. S.W. of Kirkee rail- 
way station and 3^ m. N.W. of 
the city of Poona. It derives its 
name from a small khind, or pass, 
between hills, about f m. S.E. 
of the house, which resembles a 
modern French chateau, and has 
a tall, slim tower, 80 ft. high, from 
the top of wffiich there is a fine 
view, including Kirkee, with its 
Arsenal, the iJeccan College, and 
the Parbati Hill. The house con- 
tains the usual reception rooms, a 
ball-room, darbar-room, etc., and 
has a flov/er gallery, or garden 
corridor, 90 ft. long. 


H9 m. POONA, ^ junction of 
the G.I.P. and Madras and S, 
Mahratta Railways. The railway 
station is situated at a corner 
of the city and Cantonment, 


and close to the public offices. 
' Poona (lat. iS® 31', long. 73° 
51’; altitude 1850; population 
I 158,856) is the residence of the 
[ Government of Bombay during 
t the rains. It is the headquarters 
j of the 6th Army Division and the 
' former capital of the Mahrattas, 
i The first mention of Poona is in 
, the Mahratta annals of 1599 a.d., 
when the parganahs of Poona and 
Supa were made over to Malaji 
Bhonsla (grandfather of Sivajij 
I by the Nizam Shahi Government, 
i lu 1750 it became the Mahratta 
I capital under Balaji Baji Rao. 
In 1763 it was plundered and 
destroyed by Nizam ’Aii, and 
here, on the 25th of October, 
Jaswant Rao Holkar defeated the 
combined armies of the Peshw^a 
and Scindia, and captured all the 
guns, baggage, and stores of the 
latter. The city stands in a some- 
what treeless plain on the right of 
the Mutha River, a little before it 
joins the Mula. At its extreme 
S. limit is the Hill of Parbati, so 
called from a celebrated temple 
of the goddess Durga, or Parbati, 
on its summit (see p. 471). A few 
m to the E. and S.E. are the hills 
' which lead up to the still higher 
i tableland in the direction of 
Satara. The station is healthy 
and the climate pleasant. The 
i Aqueduct was built by one of 
! the Rastias, a family of great dis- 
1 tinction amongst the Mahrattas. 
j There are also extensive water- 
i works, constructed by Sir Jam- 
[ setjee Jeejeebhoy, which cost 
■ upwards of £20,000. Of this sum 
i the Parsi baronet contributed 
I 1 17^300. New waterworks and a 
j drainage system have recently 
i been constructed for the city, at 
I a cost of some /i5o,ooo. 

The Gymkhana Assembly Rooms, 
m the middle of the station, con- 
sist of a large building with a 
handsome ballroom, with a stage 
at one end for theatricals. In the 
grounds of the building are lawn- 
tennis courts, a covered Badmin- 



ROUTE 26. BOMBAY TO MADRAS 


India 


468 

ton court, and a fine cricket- Bahadur Pestonji Sorabji 
ground. Framji Patel, the Crown Prince 

Near the Assembly Rooms, on of Travancore, Sir Mangaldas 
the road to the Bund Gardens, is Nathubhai, Dr Bhau Daji, the 

POONA AND KIRKEE 



the Council Hall, containing some 
pictures of interest, including those 
of Sir B. Frere, Lady Frere, Khan 
Bahadur Padamji Pestonji, 
Khan Bahadur Naushirwanji, 
Lord Napier of Magdala, Khan 


Raja of Cochin, Sir Salar Jang, 
the fhakors of Bhaunagar and 
Morvi, and Khande Rao Gaekwar. 

The Sassoon Hospitals, in the 
Gothic style, are at the end of 
the Arsenal Road . The total 



ROUTE 26. POONA 


number of beds is 226. This in- 
cludes 49 beds in the Jacob 
Sassoon Hospital for Europeans 
and Jews. The latter hospital 
was built in commemoration of the 
visit of the then Prince and Princess 
of Wales to India in 1905-6. It 
was designed by the Consulting 
Architect to the Government of 
Bombay, and erected by the 
P.W.D. The total cost, amount- 
ing to over Rs. 2 00, 000, was borne 
by Sir Jacob Sassoon. The foun- 
dation-stone was laid by Lord 
Lamington, and the building was 
opened on the 15th March 1909 
by Sir George Clarke (now Lord 
Sydenham). The nursing is car- 
ried on by the Hospital Nursing 
Association, supervised by the 
Wantage Sisters. There is a 
medical school for the training of 
sub - assistant surgeons attached 
to the hospitals- 

Opposite the hospitals are the 
Collector* s Cutcherry and the Gov- 
ernment Treasury. Close by is a 
large and handsome building in 
grey stone, erected in 1915, to 
house the Government Offices. 
About 250 yds. S. of St Paul’s 
Church is the Jews* Synagogue, a 
red brick building with a tower, 
Qo ft. high, consecrated 29th Sept- 
ember 1867. Air David Sassoon* s 
Tomb adjoins the synagogue, 
which was built by him. The 
mausoleum is 16 ft. sq. and 28 ft. 
high. 

1;^ m. TO the S.E., passing the 
Arsenal, is St Mary*s Church, con- 
secrated by Bishop Heber in 1825. 
Here tablets are erected to the 
rnemory of many officers of dis- 
tinction, and recall stirring inci- 
dents in the history of India. 
The font, in the S.W. corner 
of the church, is surrounded by 
stamed-glass windows. 

E. of the church are the General 
P arade Ground and Race-course, 
the latter included in the former, 
and about i m. long. The Poona 
races are held from July to Sep- 
tember. Close to it are the 
Gvinnashnn, St Andrew’s Church, 


469 

and the Masonic Lodge ; to the N. 
are the Ghorpari Barracks, and to 
the S. the Wanauri Barracks for 
British troops. 

Two Scottish Missions (Free and 
Established Church), the Ameri- 
can Mahratta Mission and C.M. 
Zenana Mission, are conducted in 
the city and suburbs. 

The Society of Si John the 
Evangelist has a native mission at 
Poona ; the mission-house is at 
Panch Howds, Vetal Peit. There 
are boys’ schools, an Industrial 
School, an Orphanage, a School 
for Catechists, and a Hospital. 

The Sisters of St Mary the 
Virgin (Wantage) have also their 
mission-house at Panch Howds, 
and in the compound the Epi- 
phany School for high-class native 
girls, and St Michael’s School for 
low-class girls. The sisters have 
also under their charge St iMary’s 
High School for European and 
Eurasian girls (self-supporting), a 
village school at Parbati, and 
another at Yerandawana, i m 
from Poona. 

The Sangam is the name given 
to the tongue ol land at the 
confluence of the Mutha River, 
flowing from the S., with the 
Mula River, coming from the N.W., 
and IS perhaps the most central 
spot of the combined city and 
Cantonments. Ppon it are several 
temples, and from it are pleasant 
views of the river. 

The Wellesley Bridg-e, 482 ft. 
long and 284- ft. broad, crosses 
the Mutha River to the Sangam 
promontory, close to its confluence 
with the Mula. It takes the place 
of a wooden bridge erected to 
commemorate the victories of 
the Duke of Wellington in India. 
The present bridge, designed by 
Col. A. L'. H. Finch, R.E,, cost 
Rs 110,932, and was opened in 
1S75. 

On the left hand, after crossing 
the VN’ellesley Bridge, are the 



nOUTE 26. BOMBAY TO MADEAS 


Ivdia 


470 

Judges* Court, the Poona Engineer- 
ing College, and E. of it a long, 
low building on the site of the 
Kesidency of the British Agent, 
Mountstuart Elphinstone, at the 
time of the rupture with the 
last Feshwa, Baji Rao II. Mr 
Elphinstone retired from it to 
Kirkee before the battle, and the 
Mahrattas plundered the building 
and pulled it down. At the E. 
end of Wellesley Bridge is a path 
to the left, which leads down to a 
pretty garden idled with fruit- 
trees and containing several tem- 
ples. The first has a tower 40 
ft. high. In the middle of the 
garden is a second temple, nearly 
as broad but not so high. A third 
temple at the end of the garden 
was built by Holkar, who 
destroyed two other old temples 
to build it. All are dedicated to 
Mahadeo, and, though small, are 
extremely handsome. At 300 yds. 
from the Engineering College is 
Mr Bomanjee Dinsiiaw Petit's 
house, called Garden Reach. It 
was built between 1862 and 1864, 
and cost /8o,ooo. Permission to 
view is usually granted on appli- 
cation when the family is not in 
residence. The gardens are beau- 
tiful, and extend along the banks 
of the river. The rooms in the 
principal house are floored with 
marble. The fine dining-room is 
connected with the house by a 
long, open gallery. Beside U is 
an open room, with sides of carved 
wood, where the Sassoon family, 
the former owners, used to dine 
during the Feast of Tabernacles. 
The ceiling of the drawing-room 
was beautifully decorated by 
Poona artists. In it is a full- 
length portrait of Mr David 
Sassoon, Sir Edward's grandfather. 
A fountain in the garden and the 
water-tower should be noticed. 

From this it is a pleasant drive 
of if m. vid the Boat Club and 
Holkar's Bridge, to the Jawsetp 
Bund and the Fitzgerald Bridge. 
If the drive be extended so as to 
include the high ground adjoining 


the Kirkee Arsenal, a very fine 
view is obtained of Poona and its 
surrounding hills. The Bund is 
of stone thro\\'n across the Mula 
River, and on the S. side of it are 
the beautiful Bund Gardens, of 6 
acres. 

The view of the Fitzgerald 
Bridge from the Bund Gardens 
is very pretty ; above it is the broad 
stream, 350 yds. wide, on which 
regattas take place, chiefly in 
February. Farther along in the 
direction of Kirkee (see above) is 
the Deccan College, built of grey 
trap-stone, in the Gothic style, at 
a cost of Rs. 245, 963, of which hall 
was contributed by Sir Jamsetjee 
Jeejeebhoy. It was designed by 
Captain H. C. Wilkins, R.E., and 
consists of the central block, two 
storeys high, with two wings, 
forming three sides of a quad- 
rangle, surmounted by a high- 
pitched iron roof coloured red 
At the N.W. corner of the main 
block is a tower 106 ft. high. The 
wings are occupied by students, 
and the main building contains 
class-rooms and laboratory, with 
a large College Hall, 70 ft. long, 
above, used for the Library. 

For a native town the streets of 
the City of Poona are wide, and 
some of the older houses are 
substantial and picturesque build- 
ings. It is divided into nineteen 
divisions, called peths, some of 
them named after the days of the 
week on which the market was 
held. In Shukruwar Peth the 
United Free Church of Scotland 
Mission have built a fine up-to- 
date hospital, known as the N. M. 
Wadia Hospital, as the trustees oi 
Mr Wadia contributed Rs. 50,000 
towards its construction. The 
Government of Bombay gave an 
equal amount as grant - in - aid. 
Amongst the industries of the 
town may be mentioned the mak- 
ing of gold and silver thread and 
wire for embroidery and for a 
simple kind of jewellery, the 
stringing of beads and berries for 
ornaments, and brass- work of all 



ROUTE 20. POONA — P ABB ATI HILL 


kinds. In the Shanwar, or “ Satur- j 
day,” division, are the remains of I 
the Peshwa' s Castle, called Juna- j 
wada, or “old palace” — a large 
enclosure about i8o yds, sq. It 
was built by the grandfather of 
the last Peshwa, and was a grand 
building, till burnt down in 1827. 
Only the massive walls remain. 
The doors are very large, and 
covered with iron spikes. Above 
the gateway is a small balcony 
supported on pillars. Here is the 
terrace from which, in 1795, the 
young Peshwa, Madhu Rao Nara- 
yan, threw himself, and died two 
days afterwards of the injuries he j 
received in the fall Here, too, ! 
in 1773, Narayan Rao was 
savagely murdered by two of his 
guard at the age of eighteen, 
after he had been but nine months 
Peshwa. 

In front is an open space where 
a vegetable market is held About 
no yds. to the N. is a stone bridge, 
oyer which a road leads to the 
village of Bamburda and the 
Sangam. 

Not far from this castle is a 
street in which, under the Pesh- 
was, offenders were executed 
by being trampled to death 
by elephants. One of the most 
memorable of these executions, 
on account of the princely rank 
of the sufferer, was that of \Vittoji 
Holkar, brother of that Jaswant 
Rao Holkar who, the same year, 
won the Battle of Poona. The 
last of the Peshwas, Baji Rao II , 
beheld the agonies of the victim 
from a window of his palace, 
where, on the morning of the ist 
of April 1800, he took his seat 
with his favourite Balaji Kunjar 
in order to glut his eyes with 
the revolting sight. 

In the Budhwar, or “ Wednes- 
day,“ quarter of the city are some i 
old Mahratta Palaces and the | 
quondam residence of the well- i 
known Minister Nana Famavis — a j 
shabbymansion with a small court- 
yard and fountain and many small I 
dark rooms and dingv passages. i 


The Parhati Hilb with its 
temples, is situated at the extreme 
S.W. of the town ; the road to 
Sinhgarh leads to it past the Hira- 
hagh, or “ Diamond Cjarden.” In 
a cemetery here, very well kept 
and shaded with trees, is interred 
the celebrated African traveller 
Sir Wilbam Cornwallis Harris, 
Major in the Bombay Engineers, 
who died in 1848.^' The Hira- 
bagh had a lake and island and 
the villa of the Peshwas, mosque, 
and temples, and was a charming 
place. Lord Valentia mentions it 
in his account of a visit to the 
Peshwa in 1S04. The lake has 
been drained for sanitary reasons, 
and the building is occupied by a 
social club, which is open to mem- 
bers of all nationalities. The 
temple at Parbati was built by 
the Peshwa Balaji Baji Rao, who 
ruled from 1740 to 1761, but m 
honour, it is said, of the Raja 
of Satara. A long succession of 
steps and ramps leads up to the 
top of the hill and to the temples. 
At each corner of the first court 
are small shrines to Surya (the 
Sun), Vishnu, Kartikkeya (the 
Hindu Mars), and Durga ; and in 
the centre is the principal temple 
dedicated to the goddess Durga 
or Parbati, the wife of Siva, so 
called from Parbat, “ a moun- 
tain,” as she is said to be the 
daughter of the Himalaya. In 
the temple is a silver image of 
Siva, with images of Parbati 
and Ganesh, of gold, seated on 
his knees. The temple and its 
approaches are said to have cost 
/i 00,000. During the Diwali it is 
lighted up in a beautiful manner. 
On the N.W. side of the enclosing 
wall is a picturesque Moonsh- 
looking window, whence, it is said, 
Baji Rao watched the defeat of 
his troops at Kirkee. From the 
top of this wall, reached by narrow 
steps, there is an extensive view 
over Poona, Kirkee, and surround- 

i He was the author of W'lld Sports m tke 
U^gst and the tll^hlands 0 / Ethiopia 



472 


ROUTE 26. BOMBAY TO MADRAS 


India 


ing country, including Parbati 
Tank, to the E., and Parbati village, 1 
S. of the tank, over the Hirabagh | 
to St Mary's Church and the Jews' j 
Synagogue, far to the N.E. To 
the S.W. IS a ruined palace of the ■ 
Peshwas, which was struck by 
lightning in 1817, of 

Baji Rao’s overthrow by the 
British. A donation of R.i may 
be given to the Brahman who 
shows the place, for the benefit 
of the temple and the numerous 
blind persons who frequent the 
hill. At the foot of the hill is a 
square field, which in the time of 
the Peshwas was enclosed by high 
brick walls. Here, at the end of 
the rains, about the time of the 
Dasahara, gifts in mone^^ were 
presented to all Brahmans. In 
order to prevent the holy men 
from receiving more than their 
share, they were passed into this 
enclosure, at the gate of which 
stood a vast cauldron filled with 
red pigment. Each as he entered 
was marked with this, and nothing 
was given till all had gone in 
They were then let out one by 
one, and Rs.3, 4, or 5 were given 
to each. On one occasion the 
Peshwa is said to have lavished 
/6o,ooo in this manner. There 
are several other temples and 
shrines at the top of the hill. 

About 6 m. from Poona is the 
Khondwa Leper Asylum, managed 
by the Mission to Lepers in India 
and the East, with the help of 
a Board representing the local 
bodies, under the Collector as 
ex officio President. The Lepers 
Act of 1898 has been appUed to 
Poona. The asylum accommo- 
dates 200 lepers, and was opened 
in 1909. 

15 m. S.W. from Poona is 
Sinhgarh, a place very famous in 
Mahratta annals, and very inter- 
esting on account of its scenery 
as well as its historic recollections. 
On the road to it is passed the 
Khandakwasla reservoir of the 
Poona waterworks. The fort 


was taken by the renowned 
Tanaji Malusre in I'ebruary 1670. 

“ The loss of the assailants was 
estimated at one-third their num- 
ber, or upwards of 300 killed or 
disabled. In the morning 500 
gallant Rajputs, together with 
their commander, were found 
dead or wounded ; a few had 
concealed themselves and sub- 
mitted ; but several hundreds had 
chosen the desperate alternative 
of venturing over the rock, and 
many were dashed to pieces in 
the attempt.*' 

On the 1st of March 1818 Sinh- 
garh was taken by the Enghsh 
without loss The garrison, 1100 
men, of whom 400 were Arabs, 
capitulated, after being shelled 
for three days, in which time 
1400 shells and upwards of 2000 
shot were fired into the place. 
The ascent to Sinhgarh is in 
part almost perpendicular. Being 
4162 ft. above the sea, it is de- 
lightfully cool, and the views 
are beautiful. 'J'here are several 
bungalows here u.sually occupied 
by summer visitors from Poona. 


Purandhar is another hill fort 
to the S.E., about 17 m. as the 
crow flies, and 24 m. by road, from 
Poona. The upper and lower 
forts are situated more than 300 ft 
below the summit, which is 4560 
ft. above sea-level, and are pro- 
tected by a perpendicular scarp. 
In March 1818 Purandhar was 
attacked and taken by the English 
column under General Pritzler 
(Blacker’s Mahratta War, p. 241). 
It is still used as a convalescent 
depot for troops and a sanatorium 
for summer visitors. There is 
there a District Bungalow (for the 
use of officials on tour), and sports- 
rnen may find panthers in the 
hills and deer and other game in 
the neighbourhood. 


167 m. Dhond junction station 
(R.). A considerable European 



ROUTE 26. AHMADNAGAR — PANDHARPUR 


473 


community ot railway servants 
IS located here. There is a good 
refreshment-room at the station. 
The Dhond-Baramati light rail\va>' 
rims S. to Baramati, 8 m. 

From this place the Dhond- 
Manmar State Railway runs N., 
joining the N.E. branch of the 
G.I.P. Railway at the latter place, 
146 m. from Dhond. 

The only place of importance 
on this line is (51 m.) Ahmadnagar 
station, usually called Nagar 
(R., D B.), the third city of 
the Deccan (population 42,940), 
covering 3 sq. m., and founded in 
1490 by Ahmad Nizam Shah 
Bahri, son of a Brahman of Vija- 
yanagar, the first of the Muham- 
madan dynasty which ruled 
Ahmadnagar for 100 years. His 
territory was the only part of the 
W. coast to which the ravages of 
Portuguese piracy did not extend 
riiey maintained a friendly inter- 
course for many years \rith 
Ahmadnagar. The power of that 
State extended over the greater 
part ol Berar and the province 
of Aurangabad and some districts 
in Khandesh, Kalyan, and from 
Bankot to Bassein, in the Konkan. 
The fort, one of the finest and 
strongest in India, fell into Akbar’s 
hands in 1600, after sustaining a 
celebrated siege under Chand 
Bibi, widow of ’Ali Adil Shah, of 
Bijapur, the “ Noble Queen of 
Meadows Taylor’s novel It was 
taken from the Nizam by the 
Mahrattas in 1 760, after desperate 
fighting. In 1797 the fort was 
made over to Scindia by the 
Peshwa, from whom it was taken 
by General Wellesley, afterwards 
L)uke of WelUngton, on the 12th 
of August 1803. A tamarind- 
tree, under which the Duke of 
Wellington is said to have lunched, 
used to be pointed out on the 
S.W. side of the fort. It has 
been blown down. 

The fort is in the centre of the 
Cantonment, 2J m. N E. of the 
railway station. Close to it are 


Christ Church and a R.C Church 
The European Barracks are i m. 
S.E of it, and the N.I. Lines and 
D.B. are N.W, of it. The gate of 
the fort towards the Poona road 
IS called the Malivada Darwaza ; 
and just outside it are the graves 
j of two British officers who fell 
here w'hen the place was stormed 
in 1803. The town, though 
nourishing and with good bazars, 
is now of no architectural interest. 
Ahmadnagar is an important 
station of the S.P.G., the American 
1 Mission, and Education Society, 
which have large schools and 
branch missions. 2 m. from 
the fort IS the Pariabagh, or 
“ fair}’^ garden,” an old Palace 
of the Nagar Kings, which has 
nothing attractive beyond histori- 
cal associations. 

Ahmadnagar is a station of 
the 6th (Poona) Division of the 
Southern Army, with a garrison 
of one British and two Indian 
Infantry Regiments, an Ammuni- 
tion Column, and two Signalling 
Companies. There is also an 
important Breeding and Training 
Depot of the Army Remount 
Department. A large camp for 
(icrman pnsoners of war is situated 
in Cantonments. 

The principal sight near Ahmad - 
nagar is the Tomb of Salabat Kh a n , 
commonly called that of Chand 
Bibi, 6 m" to E., on a hill 3080 ft. 
high. The building is octagonal 
and of three storeys. Below is 
the crypt, in which are two 
tombs. There is no inscription. 

The mam roads of the District 
are suitable for motor traffic. 

184 m. Diksal station, 3 m. 
beyond which the Bhima River is 
crossed. 

234 m. Bars! Road station. 
From here a light railway leads 
N. to (86 m.) Latur, in H.H. the 
Nizam’s dominions, and S. to 

236 m. Pandharpur (population 
^8,550), on the right bank of the 



474 


ROUTE 26. BOMBAY TO MADRAS : SHOLAPUR 


India 


Bhima River, with a very cele- 
brated shrine to Vithoba, an 
incarnation of Vishnu. Immense 
crowds of pilgrims visit the temple 
at certain times, particularly in 
July, when the Ashadi Fair 
attracts 150,000 people. A pil- 
grim tax of 4 as. per head is levied 
on all pilgrims visiting Pandhar- 
pur at the time of the four chief 
fairs. This tax forms the main 
source of municipal income. The 
municipality spends considerable 
sums on arrangements for the 
sanitary safety of the town at the 
time of the fairs. At one time 
Pandharpur was a dangerous 
centre of cholera infection to 
the whole Presidency. The Local 
Government in the years 1910- 
1911 spent nearly 425,000 rupees 
in providing the town with a pure 
water supply, and serious cholera 
epidemics no longer occur. The 
scene on the Bhima River at the 
time of the pilgrimage is most 
animated and interesting. There 
are eleven ghats, or landing-places. 
In the centre of the town, on high 
ground, stands Vithoba "s Temple, 
inscriptions on which show that 
portions of it were standing in the 
14th century. There are numer- 
ous other temples in the town. 

283 m. Sholapur station (D.B.) 
(population 89,424), capital of a 
CoUectorate, and formerly pro- 
tected by a small but strong fort, 
still in a fair state of preservation. 
It is of Muhammadan construc- 
tion, and consists of a double line 
of lofty battlemented and tow- 
ered walls, surrounded by a moat. 
In April 1818 General Munro 
marched against a body of Baji 
Rao"s infantry, 4500 in number, 
with thirteen guns, attacked them 
under the walls of Sholapur, and 
routed them with great slaughter. 
The fort, after a short siege, sur- 
rendered. The Cantonment lay 
S.E. of the railway station, and 
there was once a strong force 
here, but the troops have been 
withdrawn. 


The city, which lies N.E. of the 
railway station, presents few 
objects of interest. It has grown 
greatly in size and importance 
during the past thirty years, 
owing to the development of the 
cotton industry. It now has 
four spinning and weaving mills, 
and one spinning mill, with a 
total of 3324 looms and 226,710 
spindles. The total capital in- 
vested is 74 lakhs. 

Sholapur has fifty-tw’o schools, 
including a Government High 
School, with 400 pupils. It is 
the headquarters of the American 
Mahratti Mission, which has 
several schools and also controls 
the Leper Asylum. 

At about 3 m. N. of the city of 
Sholapur is the Ekrukh Tank, 6 m. 
in length, formed by a modem 
embankment of earth and rough 
stones, I J m. long, which has been 
carried across the Adhin River. 
Three canals from it irrigate 
the surrounding country. It also 
supplies the city with an ample 
supply of water, brought by pip^^ 
and pumped by steam powder into 
reservoirs. 

292 m. Hotgl junction sta- 
tion (R.). From this point the 
Southern Mahratta Railway runs 
S. to Bijapur and Gadag junction 
(see Route 28) 

353 ra. Gulbarga station (D.B.}. 
Gulbarga was the first capital of 
1 the Bahmani Kingdom of the 
' Deccan (1347-1500 a.d.), but was 
■ abandoned by the ninth of the 
' dynasty m 1432 in favour of 
1 Bidar (p. 505). It stands in an 
: undulating plain, a somewhat 
dreary expanse of black soih 
relieved by outcrops of limestone 
and thriving young plantations 
; of trees. It is included in the 
: Hyderabad State, and houses for 
the Nizam’s officers and public 
offices have been erected on the 
Mai dan, which stretches from the 
railway station to the city. The 
old fort in the background, black 



ROUTE 26. 


GULBARGA 


475 


with age, and the numerous 
domes with which the plain 
is dotted, also help to relieve 
the generally monotonous aspect. 
The Bahmani Kingdom, which 
was founded at the close of the 
reign of the Emperor Muhammad 
Tughlak Shah of Delhi (1323- 
1351^). dissolved gradually into the 
five kingdoms of Bijapur, Gol- 
conda, Ahmadnagar, Bidar, and 
Berar, of which the last three 
came to an end with the i6th 
century and the first two 
struggled on against the Mnghals 
till 1660 and 1672. 


The outer walls and gateways 
and most of the old buildings of 
the Fort are in a very dilapidated 
condition. The Citadel, or Bala 
Hissar, has suffered least. On the 
top of it is a curious old gun, 26 ft. 
long, and having twenty pairs of 
iron rings attached to it, bv which 
it used probably to be slung or 
lifted. Close by is an old Hindu 
temple, which has been converted 
into a mosque 


In the old fort is the Jami 
Masjid, one of the finest old 
Pathan mosques in India, built 
in the reign of Firoz Shah, and 
modelled after the great mosque 
of Cordova, in Spain. Visitors 
entering it are expected to take 
oft their boots. According to 
Mr Fergusson, it measures 216 ft 
E. and W. and 176 ft. N. and S., 
and consequently covers an area 
of 38,016 sq. ft. Its great 
peculiarity is that alone of all the 
great mosques of India the whole 
area is completely covered over. 
There is therefore no court, and 
the solid roof affords protection 
from the sun to all worshippers, 
while the light is admitted through 
the side walls, which are pierced 
mth great arches on all sides 
f'xcept the W. This arrangement 
1*5 so good both for convenience 
and architectural effect that it is 


difficult to understand why it was 
never afterw'ards repeated. It 
stands in seemingly good repair 
after four centuries of neglect, and 
owes its greatness solely to its owm 
original merit of design. 

The Talukday’s Cottrt, the Judi- 
cial Offices, and the Treasttry of 
Gulbarga are located in the grand 
old Tombs in the Eastern quarter 
of the town These tombs are 
huge square buildings, surmounted 
by domes 100 ft. high, and are the 
burial - places of the Kings "who 
reigned here at the end of the 
14th century. They are roughly 
vet strongly built, but wdth the 
exception of some handsome stone 
tracery, w^hich has, unfortunately, 
been whitew^ashed, none of them 
contain extenor ornaments of any 
kind. The interiors are more 
elaborately finished. 

Some little distance from these 
tombs IS the shrine or Dargah of 
Banda Xaivaz, or Gisu Daras 
(accessible only to Muhamma- 
dans), a celebrated saint of the 
Chishti family (see p. 100), who 
came to Gulbarga during the reign 
of Firoz Shah in 1413. The 
present structure is said to have 
been erected in i64o\)y one of his 
descendants during the reign of 
Mahmud 'Adil Shah, Shah Wah, 
Firoz Shah’s brother, made many 
valuable presents to the saint, 
and gave him large jagirs, and 
built him a magnificent college 
close to the city. Some of his 
descendants still reside at his 
tomb. The shrine is much vener- 
ated bv Muhammadans in this 
part of India, and none but true 
believers are admitted inside its 
portals Close by are some build- 
ings, consisting of a sarai, mosque, 
and college {Madyasa), said to 
have been erected by Aurangzeb, 
who visited Gulbarga on several 
occasions. 

In the towm is a bazar 370 ft. 
by 60 ft., adorned by a row of 
sixty-one Hindu arches, with a 
very ornamental block of buildings 
at either end. 



ROUTE 26. BOMBAY TO MADRAS ! RAICHUR 


India 


476 

370 m. Shatiabad station (R), 
known for its limestone quarries. 
Large quantities of the stone are 
exported. 

376 m. Wadi junction station 
(R.). From here the Nizam's 
State Railway runs E. to Hydera- 
bad, Secunderabad, Warangal, 
and Bezwada (Route 29). Pas- 
sengers for it change carriages. 

427 m. Krishna station. Here 
the railway crosses the Kistna 
( = Krishna ) River by a grand bridge 
3854 ft. long. 

443 m. Kaichur station (R.). 
At this point the G.I.P. Railway 
and the Madras and S. Mahratta 
Railway N.W. Branch Railway 
meet. Madras is distant 350 m. 

Raichur formed part of the 
dominions of the Bahmani Kings 

1357- It was included in the 
g'lvernment of Bijapur, and was 
governed in 1478 by Khwaja 
Jahan Gawan When Bijapur 
became an independent king- 
dom Raichur was its first capital. 
The Fort is about m. from 
the railway station. The N. 
gate, flankecf by towers, is best , 
worth attention. There is a stone | 
elephant, not quite the natural 
size, carved out of a boulder about 
50 yds. outside the gate. At right j 
angles to this gate is another called | 
the Kasba Darwaza. Outside 
the latter is the door of a tunnel, 
out of which the garrison could 
come to close the gate, and then 
retire by the underground passage 
into the fort. The W, gate is 
called the Sikandaria, and near 
it is the old palace, with immensely 
thick walls — now a jail. 

The Citadel should be seen for 
the sake of the fine view, extending 
as far as the Tungabhadra River, 
16 m. to the S,, and the Krishna, 
12 m. to the N. The ascent 
commences from near the N. gate. 
The hill on which it is built consists 
of immense boulders of rock, and 
is over 290 ft. high. The path up 


is broken and unsafe after dark. 
On the left is a row of cells belong- 
ing to the dargah, or shrine, and 
at the E. end, overhanging the 
precipice, is a stone pavilion. 
Near this, on the E., is a mosque 
18 ft. high ; and on the S. side 
IS a place for a bell or gong 7 ft. 
high, with stone supports and a 
stone roof. The whole surface of 
the top is 70 ft. sq. The town 
is to the E. of the fort. 


486 m Adoni station (Adwani — 
population 31,645). This is one 
of the principal cotton-marts in the 
Deccan. The town is of some 
historical interest. According to 
tradition, it was founded 3000 
years ago by Chandra Singh of 
Bidar. After the Battle of Tali- 
kota in 1565 the Sultan of Bijapur 
appointed Malik Rahman Khan, 
an Abyssinian, to govern it, which 
he did for 39 years, and died there. 
His tomb on the Talibanda Hill is 
still an object of religious venera- 
tion. He was succeeded by his 
adopted son, Sidi Mas’aud Khan, 
who built the lower fort and the 
fine Jami Masjid. In 1690 Adorn 
was taken, after a desperate resist- 
ance, by one of Aiirangzeb's 
Generals, and aftervrards fell to 
the Nizam. Salabat Jang granted 
it in jagiy to Basalat Jang, his 
younger brother, who made it his 
capital, and endeavoured to form 
an independent State. He died 
in 17S2, and was buried at Adoni, 
and a fine mosque and tomb were 
erected over his grave and that 
of his mother. In 1 786 the citadel 
was captured by Tipu Sultan after 
one month's siege. He demol- 
ished the fortifications, and re- 
moved the guns and stores to 
Gooty. In 1792 it was restored 
to the Nizam, and exchanged by 
him with the British in 1799 
for other places. The citadel is 
built on five hiUs, two of which rise 
800 ft. above the plain. Half-way 
up the rock is a fine tank contain- 
ing good water, and never dry. 



ROUTE 26. GUNTAKAL — GOOTY — CUDDAPAH 


la. Uuntakal junction station 
(R.)- From this junction the line 
runs S.E. to Madras, S. to Banga- 
lore, N.E. to Bezwada, and W. to 
Bellary, Hospet (for Vijayanagar), 
and Goa (see Route 30). 

536 m. Gooty station (R.)* 
Nearly 2 m. S. of the railway 
station is its famous hill fortress, 
built on a precipitous mass oi 
bare rock, which towers hundreds 
of feet above the surrounding 
rocks. It was the stronghold ol 
Moran Rao, the ally of Clive at 
Arcot in 1751. It is approached 
by a long, winding, paved pathway, 
which leads to the summit of the 
iortress. It was taken by Hyder 
AJi in 1776, after a siege of nine 
months. The water failed, and 
the garrison were forced by thirst 
to surrender. The fort is 950 ft. 
above the plain and 2105 ft. 
above sea-level. At the foot of 
the path leading to the citadel is 
the European Cemetery, where 
rested for a short time the body 
of Sir Thomas Munro, who died at 
Pattikonda, in Kurnool, on the 
0th February 1827. His remains 
now lie in the fort at Madras, but 
a cenotaph stands in this cemetery, 
where there are also other graves 
of interest. There is a native 
R.H. in the town,, erected by 
Government to the memory of 
^ir Thomas Munro, at a cost of 

566 m. Tadpatri station (R.). 
Ihe town was founded during the 
time of the Vijayanagar Kings, 
about 14S5, when the highly 
decorative temples of Rameswar- 
aswanu and Clnntalarayaswami 
were built. They are about 2 
ni. from the railway station. The 
one on the river-bank was never 
finished, but is the most imposing. 
Fergusson (Ind, Avch., i, 403, pic- 
tures on pp. 405-6) writes : “ The 
wonders of the place are two 
gopurams belonging to the second 
(the Rameswara), which is now a 


deserted temple on the banks of 
the nver, about a quarter of a mile 
from the other. One of these 
was apparently quite finished ; the 
other on the North never carried 
liigher than the perpendicular part. 
In almost all the gopurams of 
India this part is comparatively 
plain, all the figure-sculpture and 
ornament being reserved for the 
upper, or pyramidal, part. In this 
instance, however, the whole of 
the perpendicular part is covered 
with the most elaborate sculpture, 
cut with exquisite sharpness and 
precision, in a fine close-grained 
hornblende (?) stone, and produces 
an effect richer, and on the whole, 
perhaps, in better taste, than 
anything else in this style.” 
These two large gopurams are 
perhaps the finest architectural 
works executed during the Vijaya- 
nagar dynasty. 


632 m. Cuddapah station (K.) 
is one of the ceded districts. The 
headquarters ot Cuddapah towm 
(population 17,807) is on the 
M. and S.M. Railway main Une, 
162 m. from Madras. It was for- 
merly the capital of the Nawabs 
of Cuddapah, local Chiefs of some 
importance in the latter half of 
the 1 8th century. Situated be- 
tween the Mahrattas, the Nizam, 
and Mysore, they were gradually 
crushed, and finally were re-ab- 
sorbed by the Hyderabad State. 
In 1799 the Cuddapah, Kumool, 
and Bellary Districts were ceded 
to the E.I. Co., and Sir Thomas 
Munro w^as appointed the first 
Collector of all three. Cuddapah 
town contains the usual munici- 
pal buildings, including a R.H. 
The district is hilly, ^nd has a 
large area of forests. Places ol 
interest, historical and archaeo- 
logical, are few, the principal be- 
ing Gandikota and Siddhavattam 
Forts (railway stations, Konda- 
puram and Vontunetta respec- 
tively). There are R.Hs. at 
both. The W. taluks are noted 



ROUTE 26. BOMBAY lO MADRAS : TIRUPATl 


India 


478 

for their ground-nut and cotton 
crops ; while in the Penneru River 
bed, near Cuddapah, are growTi the 
melons for which the district is 
famous. 

Jammalamadugu {14 m. from 
Muddanuru station) is the head- 
quarters of the London Mission 
in the ceded districts. There 
is only a very small thatched R.H. 
of the D.P.W. there. Owing to 
the many broad and unbridged 
streams in the district the roads 
are not suited to motor traffic. 
Persons travelhng in the District 
would have to make their own 
arrangements for meals at R.Hs. 

710 m. Renigunta station (R.), 
junction of the Metre-gauge State 
Railway (i) N.E. to Gudur (p. 460) 
and (2) S. and S.E. to Tirupati, 
Vellore (p. 536), and Villupuram. 

8 m. Tirupati station ^ (D.B.). 
This town, of 16,701 inhabitants, 
crowded at all times with pilgrims, 
is celebrated for one of the most 
sacred Hill Pagodas (Sri Venkates- 
wara Perumal) m S. India ; it 
stands at the top of the “ holy 
hill ” called Tirumala, and is about 
8 m. from the railway station. 
Wooden and brass idols are a 
speciality of the lower town. A 
conveyance takes one to the foot 
of the hill, where there are two 
fine gates, from which -the ascent 
is made in a dooly carried by 
bearers. It is well to obtain 
an introduction to the Mahant 
from the Collector of the Chit- 
toor District. There are several 
gopurams on the ascent visible 
from below. The antiquity of the 
temple is indisputable, but its 
origin is involved in obscurity. 
The idol is an erect stone figure 
7 ft. high, with four arms, repre- 
senting Vishnu. In the temple at 
Upper Tirupati are copper statues 
of the Vijayanagar King Krish- 
naraya and his two Queens, and 
of Venkatapatiraya. No Euro- 
pean ascended the hill till 1870, 


w'hen the Superintendent 01 Police, 
in spite of the remonstrances of 
the Mahant, went up in search of 
an escaped forger. It is 2500 ft. 
high and quite bare, and has seven 
peaks. On the seventh peak, 
Sri Venkataramanachellam, is the 
pagoda, surrounded by a broad 
belt of mango, tamarind, and 
sandal trees. In front of it is a 
Hall of 1000 Pillars, w'hich cannot, 
however, compare with that at 
IMadura or those at Chidambaram 
or Conjeeveram. A picturesque 
stepped way leads from it to the 
temple gate, which is a fine one ; 
admission to the temple is not 
granted. E. of the temple is a 
tank, and a bungalow, belonging 
to the Mahant, for the accommp- 
dation of European visitors. 

14 m. Chandra giri station. 
Alter the defeat of Talikota in 
January 1565 the capital of the 
Rajas of Vijayanagar was for a 
time at Penukonda, and w^as sub- 
sequently changed to Chandragiri. 
It was taken from them by the 
Golconda Ruler in 1646, and was 
occupied by the Nawab of Arcot 
in 1750 and by Hyder 'Ali in 
1782. In the palace here one of 
these, Sn Ranga Raya, in 1639. 
made to the East India Compant 
the original grant of the land on 
which Fort St George (Madras) 
was built. The Government care- 
fully preserve the palace, and it 
IS used as an official residence. 
It is most picturesquely situated 
m the fort, and at Uie back of it 
is a high, rocky hill. The best 
way to visit it is to drive from 
Tirupati and join the train at 
Chandragin. 

78 m. Vellore station (Route 3'-2)- 

272 m. Villupuram station. 

From Renigunta station the 
line continues S.E. to 

751 m. Arkonam junction sta- 
tion (R.). The N.W. and S.W. 



ROUTE 27. POONA TO GOA 


branches of the Madras and S. 
Mahratta Railway join at this 
point, and a branch of the South 
Indian Railway runs S. to Conjee- 
veram and Chingleput (Route 

32 (*))• 

7O5 m. from Bombay is Tiru- 
valur station, 30 m. by road from 
Madras. There is a large Vaish- 
nava temple here ; and 4 m. from 
the station is the site of the old fort i 
of Tripasore, which was captured 
by Sir Eyre Coote in 17S1. Tripa- 
sore Fort was at one time the 
station for the East India Com- 
pany’s cadets, and afterwards for 
pensioners. There is a Travellers’ ' 
Bungalow, without servants or 
furniture. 

794 m, from Bombay is Madras 
central station (p. 555). 


ROUTE 27. 

POONA to GOA by Wathar 
Satara, Miraj, Belgaum, Londa, 
the Braganza Ghat, and Mor- 
mugao, with excursion by road 
to Mahabaleshwar, and rail to 
Kolhapur. 

Poona (see p. 467). The Madras 
and Southern Mahratta Railway 
branches S. from the G.I.P. 
2 m. E. of the station. Passing 
through three hill ranges, it 
reaches 

69 m. Wathar station ^ (R.). 

Passengers leave the train here 
for Mahabaleshwar, the principal 
hill station of the Bombay Presi- 


479 

I dency, about 40 in. distant by 
I road to the \V. 

I Motors, carnages, and tongas 
I can be had at Wathar by giving 
I notice to the mail contractor at 
I Mahabaleshwar (see the Index, 
J under the word “Wathar"). 

I jNIotors can be hired also direct 
I from Poona. It is a charming 
drive of about five hours, the first 
part through rolling country to 

20 m. Wai (D.B ) (population 
10,544), of the most beautiful 
, towns in the Deccan. It is situated 
on the left bank of the Krishna, 
which IS lined with fine pipal and 
mango trees, and with handsome 
flights of stone bathing - ghats. 
Behind the city rise hills of all 
the shapes which are peculiar to 
the mountains in the Deccan. 
One hill, 4 m. to the N.W., rises 
very abruptly, and has a hill fort 
on the top ; it is called Panda v- 
gad, according to the tradition 
that Wai is the Vairatnagar 
visited by the Pandavas (In trod. p. 
Ixxii) . The nearest temple to the 
D.B. — and the river is fined with 
beautiful temples — is dedicated to 
Ganpati ; the next to Mdhadev ; 
and one, at some distance, to 
Lakshmi. They form the great 
beauty of this most picturesque 
spot. The mandapam, or canopy, 

I in front of Maljadev’s temple, is 
I very light, and a fine specimen of 
I carving in stone. Wai is a spot 
I much famed m Hindu legend. 

: Here, according to old tradition, 

' the Pandavas spent part of their 
: banishment and performed many 
; great works (Introd. p. Ixxii). On 
I this account, as because of its 
proximity to the Krishna River so 
near its source, Wai is viewed as a 
place of great sanctity ; and there 
IS a Sanskrit school estabhshed 
at it, once in much repute. 

The most curious thing to be 
seen near Wai is a gigantic Banyan- 
tree, at the foot of a mountain 
called Wairatgad, about 8 m. 
distant, near the village of Mhasve, 
and 2 m. ofi the road The exact 



India 


4S0 ROUTE 27. POONA TO GOA : MAHABALESH WAR 


area shaded by it is three-quarters j 
of an acre. The space covered is ; 
a very symmetrical oval. There 
is no brushwood underneath, nor 
aught to impede the view save 
the stems of the shoots from the 
parent tree (see p. 93). 

On leaving Wai the road begins 
a steep ascent to 

28 m. Pancligaiii, a very large 
village, containing many bunga- 
lows belonging to Europeans, with 
nice plantations about them. In 
fact, many visitors who come to 
the hills prefer to stop at Panch- 
gani rather than Mahabaleshwar, 
because the rainfall is less, and 
the place can be made a permanent 
residence. From Panchgani the 
road descends a little for one-third 
of a mile; the country round is 
covered with low jungle and 
patches of cultivation. 

About I m. from Mahabaleshwar 
village, the small lake made by 
the Raja of Satara is passed on 
the right ; it winds picturesquely, 
and is about 810 yds. long, and 
not quite 200 yds. broad. 

Mahabaleshwar, 40 m. from 
Wathar station, is the hill station 
of the Bombay Presidency. There 
are two seasons— April and May 
and after the rains to October. 
During the season mail motors run 
from Wathar M. S.M. Railway, and 
antiquated phaetons run during 
the fair season at all times 
(apply Bnrjorji Pirozshah Maha- 
baleshwar ; for mail or other 
motors, Frenchman, Mahabalesh- 
war). Many people go up direct 
from Poona in motors (75 m.). 
In the fair season the climate 
is at all times dehghtful, especi- 
ally from October to March. 
April and May are distinctly hot, 
with cool nights. In June mists 
come on, and every one flees the 
hill to escape the torrential rains 
(from 150 in. to 400 in.) which fail 
till the beginning of October. 


October is a very pleasant month, 
and the vegetation is seen at its 
best. Christmas is a favourite 
season, and the climate usually 
dry and invigorating. The general 
height of the plateau is from 
4000 ft. to 4500 ft., with an abrupt 
descent to the E. of 2000 ft., and to 
the W. of from 3000 ft. to 4000 ft. 
In clear weather the sea can be 
seen, which is in a direct line only 
about 30 m. W. The plateau is 
heavily wooded with evergreen 
jungle, closely preserved by the 
Forest Department, but there is 
an absence of big trees. There 
are various view points and places 
of interest shown on the Govern- 
ment map of the Mahabaleshwar 
Plateau, but the waterfalls will 
be found distinctly disappointing, 
except after heavy rains. Orchids 
and lilies flower in April and May, 
and ferns and general vegetation 
are seen at their best in Octo- 
ber, in which month butterflies 
abound. 

There are several hotels — very 
full in the season (Race View and 
Ripon may be mentioned) ; there 
is also a nice Club with a few 
bachelor quarters, and numerous 
furnished bungalows can be rented 
for the season. 

The chief view points and ex- 
peditions are Elphinstone Point 
and Arthur's Seat (fine views of 
the abrupt descent into the 
Konkan) ; Old Mahabaleshwar, 
with a very sacred and much 
overrated temple, from which 
the Krishna is said to rise ; Con- 
naught Peak, with fine view of the 
Plateau : Lodwick Point, with 
view of Partabgad ; Bombay 
X^oint, with perhaps the finest view 
of all; and Kate’s Point; the 
Falls of the Yenna to E. and the 
Dhobi’s Waterfall to W.— all these 
can be followed on the map. 

There are perfect roads and 
excellent walks and rides. Golf, 
polo, tennis, etc., can be played, 
and there is a good library and 
reading-room at the Frere Hall. 
The height of the season is in 



ROUTE 27 PRATAPGAD — SATARA ROAD 481 


Aprit and May, when the hill is 
usually very crowded. 

Good vegetables are grown, and 
in the season strawberries can be 
had. 

Panthers are common, and tigers 
are occasionally found on the pla- 
teau ; but the ordinary visitor is 
hardly likely to get any shooting. 
The plateau is very extensive, and 
this hill station compares favour- 
ably in this respect with the 
cramped Himalayan hill stations. 

Its proximity to the sea makes the 
climate far cooler and more 
equable than, from its elevation 
and latitude, one would be led to 
suppose. The scenery, especially 
the view to the W., looking down 
upon the Konkan or narrow strip 
between the ghats and the sea, 
is very impressive, though it lacks 
the grandeur of the Himalayas. 

The best conveyance is a tonga 
with two ponies, which can be 
obtained locally : riding - horses 
cannot be hired ; rickshaws are 
unknown. Motors are not per- 
mitted to drive round the roads, 
and are restricted to the journey 
up and down — a very proper 
restriction, as driving and riding j 
arc the favourite means of getting j 
about. j 

i 

Pratapgad (D.B.) is a pictur- I 
e^ue hill fort crowning a pre- ! 
cipitous rock remarkable as the 
stronghold of Sivaji and as the I 
scene of one of the most remarkable * 
events in Indian history — the | 
founding of the Mahratta empire. ; 
A charming drive down the Fitz- : 
gerald ghat on the road to Mahad | 
ofaboutqm.leadsto the footof the - 
hill, whence a steep path ascends I 
to the gates of the fortress. ! 
Chairs are available at the D.B. j 
Sivaji, having in 1656 provoked j 
hostilities with Bijapur whose 1 
army he could not meet in the [ 
open, determined to overcome 
its General, Afzal Khan, by 
stratagem, and pretending to be 
in a state of great alarm at the 
approach of the Bijapur army to > 

2H 


besiege Pratapgad, offered to 
make his submission to Afzal 
Khan at a personal interview, on 
condition that the two comman- 
ders should meet unarmed, in the 
midst, between the two armies, 
with only one armed attendant. 
They accordingly approached 
from either side attired in white 
robes, apparently muslin ; but 
Sivaji wore defensive mail under 
his robe and turban, and carried 
concealed in one hand a cruel 
weapon called a Wdghnakh, ‘*the 
tiger's claws," consisting of four 
sharp steel claws attached by 
rings to his fingers. In the very 
act of embracing the Khan in an 
attitude of humility, Sivaji drove 
these claws into him and tore out 
his vitals, and despatched him 
with a hidden dagger. His head 
was struck off and buried under 
the old tower in the fort. Mean- 
while the Mahratta army, which 
had been concealed in ambush in 
the jungle, rushed out upon the 
Bijapur forces and cut them to 
pieces. 

From Wathar station the rail- 
way hne proceeds to 

78 m. Satara Road station. 
From here it is a 10 m. drive by 
tonga or carriage to Satara {2320 
ft. high ; public motor-cars are 
always available ; D.B. ; popula- 
tion 20,944), situated in a hollow 
between two ranges of hills, which 
rise above it on the E. and W. and 
partly overlap it on the S. The 
hill on the W. is the termination 
of a spur from the Mahabaleshwar 
Hills. From this hill to the city 
v/ater is conveyed 4 m. in pipes ' 
and there are also two fine tanks. 
The city has many historic recol- 
lections, and the station is one of 
the most salubrious and pleasant 
in the Deccan. The Cantonment 
is about ij m. from N. to S., and 
nearly the same from E. to W. 
In the S. end is the Residency, 
inhabited by Sir Bartle Frere in 



India 


ROUTE 27. TOONA TQ GOA : ^ATARA 


482 

1849, originally built about 1820. 
Outside the N. gate of the old 
Residency were the British Unes, 
the Indian lines and Sadr bazar 
lying N. of them. 

The ruling family of Satara was 
descended from Sahu, the grand> 
son of Sivaji, who was brought 
up at the Mughal court. Direct 
descendants died out in 1848 with 
Raja Shahaji, and the State then 
lapsed to the British Government. 

The New Palace, built by Appa 
Sahib (Raja Shahaji) near the 
centre of the city, adjoins the 
Old Palace. On the fa9ade are a 
number of mythological pictures, 
much defaced by the weather. On 
the N. side of the court is a vast 
hall — one of the largest in India. 
The buildings surrounding the 
front and main courts are occupied 
by the offices of the Executive and 
Judicial officers respectively. The 
roof is supported by sixty-four 
teak pillars, with four more in 
front. About 200 yds. beyond 
this is a pretty garden and villa 
belonging to the sons of Rajaram 
(never ruled), who was adopted by 
the late Rani. His surviving son 
is in possession of the crown jewels 
of the Satara family and of Jai 
Bhawani, the famous sword of 
Sivaji, and his other arms. The 
sword is 3 ft. 9 in. long in the blade 
and the handle is 8 in. long, but so 
small that an European can hardly 
get his hand into it. Like most 
of the famous blades in India, it 
is of European make, and has the 
stamp of Genoa. The Waghnakh, 
or ** tiger’s claws,” described on 
p. 481, has rings which pass 
over the first and fourth fingers, 
but are too small for an European 
hand. The shield is of rhinoceros 
hide, and has four stars or bosses 
of diamonds. The gold casket 
for holding Sivaji’s seal is orna- 
mented with diamonds, rubies, 
pearls, and emeralds, and there 
is an inkstand and penholder of 
gold similarly begemmed. The 
quilted coat which Sivaji is said to 
have worn when he murdered Afzal 


Khan may also be seen. It is not 
fined with chain armour, as is 
popularly imagined, but is only a 
cloak of thick quilted silk, which is 
inconsistent with the appearance 
of mushn. It is lined with red silk, 
is richly embroidered with gold, 
and is very heavy. The dagger is 
ver\ handsome, and is 18 in. long. 
The diamonds, emeralds, and 
rubies in the handle are very 
fine. 

The Fort rises finely on the S. 
side of the town, and may now be 
nearly reached by a bridle-path 
winding up from the Cantonment. 
The gate of the fort is on the K. 
side, is of stone, and is very 
strongly built, with buttresses 
40 ft. high. The interior of the 
fort is now nearly desolate. 
There are a bungalow and P.W.D. 
storehouse, with one small temple 
and the remains of the Raja’s pal- 
ace, subsequently used as a mess- 
house. The fort is said to have 
been built by a Raja of Panhala 
who reigned in 1192.^ By him, 
too, were erected the forts of 
Wairatgad and Panda vgad, near 
Wai, and Chandan and Wandan, 
near Satara. Long before the 
time of the ’Adil Shahi dynasty at 
Bijapur the Fort of Satara was 
used as a State prison, and Sivaji, 
who captured it in 1673, after a 
siege of several months, unwjfc- 
tingly furnished for his descenu- 
ants a prison in which they were 
for years confined by the Peshwas. 
In 1698, at the suggestion of 
Ramchandra Pant, Satara was 
made the capital of the Mahratta 
Government. Next year Aurang- 
zeb, with a great army, arrived 
before the city and pitched his 
tents on the N. side. His son. 
Prince Azim Shah, was on the W. 
side, at a village since called 
Shahpur ; Shirzi Khan invested 
the S., and Tarbiyat Khan 
occupied the E., quarter. Chains 
of posts between the different 
camps effectually secured the 
blockade. The fort was defended 

* Gyani Duff", j, 260. 



ROUTE 27. SATARA ROAD MAHULI 


by Pryagji Prabhu, hawaldar, who 
had been reared in the service of 
Sivaji. As the Mughals advanced 
he withdrew into the fort, and 
rolled down huge stones from the 
rock above, which did great 
execution. The blockade, how- 
ever, was complete — all communi- 
cations were cut off, provisions 
were exhausted, and the besieged 
must have been compelled to 
surrender had not Parshuram 
Trimbak, who had thrown himself 
into the Fort of Parah, purchased 
the connivance of ’Azim Shah, 
and conveyed stores to the 
besieged. The grand attack was 
directed against the N.E. angle, 
which is one of the strongest 
points, the rock being 42 ft. high, 
with a bastion on the top of 25 
ft. of masonry. Tarbiyat Khan 
undertook to mine this angle, and 
at the end of four and a half 
months had completed two mines 
The storming party, confident of 
success, was formed under the 
brow of the hill. The Emperor 
moved out in grand procession 
to view the attack, and the garri- 
son, and among them Pryagji, 
attracted by the splendour of the 
retinue, crowded to the rampart. 
The first mine burst several 
fissures in the rock, caused a 
great part of the masonry to fall 
inwards and crush many of the 
garrison to death ; but the second 
and larger mine burst outwards 
with a terrible explosion, and 
destroyed upwards of 2000 of the 
besiegers. Pryagji was buried by 
the first explosion close to a temple 
to Bhavani, but was dug out aUve. 
This was regarded by the Mah- 
rattas as a happy omen, and, 
animated by it, the garrison would 
have made a prolonged and 
desperate defence, but provisions 
fell short, and ’Azim Shah would 
no longer connive at their intro- 
duction. Proposals of surrender 
were therefore made through him, 
and the honour of the capture, 
which he so ill-merited, was not 
only assigned to him, but the very 


483 

[ name of the place, in compliment 
I to him, vas changed by the 
■ Emperor to 'Azimgarh. 

In 1705 the fort was retaken 
, by the Mahrattas, through the 
artifice of a Brahman named 
Anaji Pant. He ingratiated him- 
self with the Mughals under the 
j character of a mendicant devotee, 
' amusing them with stories and 
j songs, and. being allowed to reside 
! in the fort, introduced a body of 
I ^ la walls, and put every man of 
the garrison to the sword. Satara 
surrendered to the English in 1818, 
and Pratap Singh, eldest son of 
Shahu II., w’as installed as Raja. 
He held the principality twenty- 
one years, and, being found guilty 
of conspiring to massacre the 
Europeans in the neighbourhood 
and to establish the Mahratta 
dynasty, was sent prisoner to 
Benares in 1839, being succeeded 
'^y his brother, Appa Sahib (Sha- 
liaji) on whose death without issue, 
in 1S4S, the territory was annexed. 

Mahuli. — This pretty place, at 
the confluence of the Krishna and 
I ^ena ( i 'ena | Rivers, isabout 3 m. E. 
of Satara, and thoroughly deserves 
a visit. It is considered a place 
of great sanctity, and the dead 
from Satara and the surrounding 
villages are brought there for 
cremation. Descending the river, 
Kshetya JSIahiih is the name of the 
village on the opposite (left) bank, 
built in 1825, and dedicated to 
Radha Shankar. 

' On the same side of the river is 
the temple of Bholeswar Mahadev, 
built m 1742. The next temple 
IS on the same bank, dedicated 
to Rameswar, and was built 
in 1700 A.D. Looking from the 
opposite bank, one is struck with 
the very fine flight of steps lead- 
ing up to it from the river-bed. 
Close to the junction of the rivers, 
on the W. bank of the Krishna and 
the N. of the Vena, is the Temple 
of Sangameswar Mahadev, built in 
1679. Below it and at the junc- 
tion of the rivers is a triangular 



India 


ROUTE 27. POONA TO GOA : KOLHAPUR 


484 

plot of ground, with the tombs of a 
Gosain named Banshapuri and 
his disciples. That of tiie Gosain 
is an octagonal building of grey 
basalt, with open sides surmounted 
by a low dome. The largest of 
the temples is on the S. side of 
the Vena, at its confluence with 
the Krishna. It is sacred to 
Visheswar Mahadev, and was built 
in 1735 A.D. 

160 m. Miraj junction station 
(R., D.B.). 

A branch line, constructed by 
the Kolhapur State, runs W. to 

29 m. Kolhapur station {popu- 
lation 48,122), the capital of the 
Native State, with a total area of 
about 3217 sq. m. and a revenue 
of 64 lakhs. It is celebrated on 
account of the antiquity of its 
temples, and is now also distin- 
guished for its fine modem build- 
ings. The Maharaja Sir Sahu 
Chhatrapati Maharaj. G.C.S.I., 
G.C.V.O., G.C.I.E., LL.D., etc. 
(salute 21 guns, personal) traces 
his descent from the Mahratta 
Chief Sivaji. 

His New Palace, between the 
Residency and the city, was built 
at a cost of Rs. 800,000, and is a 
very prominent object in the land- 
scape. 

The Albert Edward Hospital was 
built in commemoration of King 
Edward's visit to India, and con- 
tains a portrait of him. 

Opposite is the Town Hall, 
situated in the Public Gardens. 
The High School, a handsome pile 
of buildings, is near the Old Palace 
in the centre of the town, and 
fronting it is the Native General 
Library. The Residents House is 
a handsome building. Close by 
is All Saints* Church, served by 
the S.P.G. clergy, whose Mission 
House is 300 yds. ofl, ^ m. S.W. 
of the Resident’s House. The 
Ladies’ Association of the S.P.G. 
has one school in the town and 
another in the camp. 

A Nakkar^Hihana, or music 


gallery, forms the entrance to the 
Palace Square. To the right on 
entering is the Rajwada, or Old 
Palace, with a stone gateway in 
the centre and w'ooden pillars. 
On the second storey is a Darbar- 
room, with portraits of Aka Bai, 
mother of the late Chief of Kagal, 
and of Ahalya Bai, adoptive 
mother of the late Raja, Raja 
Ram. There is also a picture 
of the mausoleum at Florence 
erected over the spot where Raja 
Ram's body was burned ; he died 
there returning from a visit to 
England. In the third storey is 
an Armoury, in which are many 
curious swords, one of which may 
have belonged to Aurangzeb, for 
it has in Per^n the name 
I 'Alamgir and the date 1012 a.h. 

There is also a Persian sword 
I given by Sir John Malcolm to the 
I Raja of his time. 

Adjoining the Treasury, in the 
S. face of the square, are other 
Government Offices, and behind 
them the shrine of Amba Bai, the 
tutelary deity of Kolhapur. The 
old great bell of the temple was 
inscribed : “ Ave Maria Gratiae 

Plena Dominus Tecum,” and must 
have been obtained from the 
Portuguese about the year 1739- 

N. of the town is a sacred spot, 
— the Brahmapuri Hill — where 
the Brahmans undergo cremation. 
About 100 yds. N. of this, close 
to the Panchganga River, is what 
is called the Rant's Garden, where 
the bodies of the ruling family are 
burned. 

From this spot is seen a bridge 
over the river, with five arches, 
finished in 1878 at a cost of 
/ 1 4, 000. Beyond Rani’s Garden 
is a massive stone gateway, 20 ft. 
high, which leads to the Cenotaphs 
of Raja Sambaji, just opposite 
the door to that of Sivaji and 
more to the left that of Tara-Bai. 

Kolhapur was one of the few 
places in the Bombay Presidency 
which took part in the disastrous 
rebellion of 1857. The mutineers, 
consisting of the 27th Regiment 



ROUTE 27. PANHALA — GOKAK BELGAUM 


485 


Indian Infantry, broke open the 
magazines, stole arms, and carried 
off public treasure to the amount 
of Rs.45,000. 


Hill Forts of Panhala and Pawan- 
garh. — Before leaving Kolhapur 
the traveller should pay a visit to 
Panhala, which lies 12 m. to the 
N.W. of the capital. There is an 
excellent road all the way right 
into the fort. The last 5 m. are 
up a steep ascent. ^ 


The fortress of Panhala, 2992 ft 
above sea-level, is one of the most 
interesting in the W. of India. 
It stands up boldly at the top of 
a rocky height, and was the strong- 
hold of a Raja m 1192 who reigned 
over the territory from the Mal^adeo 
Hills, N. of Satara, to the River 
Hiranyakeshi. It was taken by 
the Kings of Bijapur, who restored 
it in 1549 ; was captured in 1659 
by Sivaji, who made some of his 
most successful expeditions from 
it ; and surrendered to the Mii- 
ghals in 1690 ; and in 1844 was 
stormed and taken by the English. 
At the Char Darwaza, or quad- 
ruple gate, is a temple of Maruti , 
passing on. there is a Muham- 
madan tomb of granite on the left, 
converted into a school, and a 
little farther on, a temple of 
Sambaji on the same side of the 
road. The Sivaji Tower (1600 
A^.D.) is a conspicuous building of 
two Storey'S, facing E. and standing 
at the brink of a precipice. About 
J m, S.W. of the tower are the 
stone granaries which enabled 
Sivaji to stand a siege of five 
months. They are 30 ft. high, 
57 ft. broad, and 130 ft. long. At 
the W. side of the fort is the Tt)i 
Oarwaza, a triple gate handsomely 
sculptured. To the right, at 
about 40 yds. distance, is the 
place where the English breached 
and stormed the fort in 1844. 

Returning to Miraj junction, 
the line continues to 


212 m Gokak Road station (R.) 
I tongas available). 3J m. fpom 
here are the falls of the Ghata- 
] )rabha River, known as the Gokak 
! Falls. In the rainy season they 
I are very fine, but at other times of 
; the year the volume of water is in- 
I significant. The height of the 
j fails is 176 ft., and the pool below 
; IS very deep. Near the falls, on 
I ooth banks, are groups of old 
: temples. The Gokak cotton-mills 
' ^tand over the falls. The mills of 
' the Gokak Power Company arc 
worked by turbines supplied with 
water from the falls. They are 
on the right bank of the river, 
which is crossed at this point by a 
suspension bridge. There are the 
remains of many dolmens S.E. of 
the village of Konur, i m. from the 
falls. The Gokak Canal, an im- 
portant irrigation work, starts 
from here. 

245 m. Belgauni station (R., 

D. B ), a civil and military Canton- 
ment (population 42,623), is called 
by the natives Shahpur Belgaum, 
from the neighbouring town of 
Shahpur, which lies to the S. It 
is situated in a plain about 2500 ft. 
above the sea, with low hills in the 
distance. The fort stands to the 

E. of the town, which contains 
nothing of especial interest, and 
to the E, of the Cantonment. It 
is built of stone, is oval in shape, 
and has earthen ramparts and a 
ditch. It was taken by Brigadier- 
General, afterwards Sir, T. Munro 
on the 10 til of April 1818. 

At 120 yds. distance is the ruined 
Nakkar Khana, or music gallery, 
and on the left is the fort Church, 
containing memorial tablets to 
C. J. Manson, C.S., who was mur- 
dered by a band of rebels in the 
night of the 29th May 1858, and 
to Lieutenant W. P. Shakespeare, 
A. P. Campbell, and Ensign W. 
Caldwell, who all fell in the insur- 
rection of Kolhapur and Sawant- 
wadi. 

Beyond the Nakkar Khana to 
the E. is a neat, plain mosque, and 



India 


ROUTE 27. POONA TO GOA : BEJLGAUM 


486 

farther S. a Jam Temple, built of 
laterite. There is a low wall at 
the entrance, along which are 
carved figures of musicians. The 
facade has four pillars and two 
pilasters, all of a very comphcated 
character. The inscription in the 
old Kanara language, beautifully 
cut on a slab of black porphyry, 
which once was here and is now 
in the Museum of the Bombay- 
Abiatic Society, states that Mah- 
karjuna, whose descent for three 
generations is given, built the 
temple. 

The second Jain Temple ii> within 
the Commissariat Store Yard, and 
lb very much finer than that out- 
side. The roof is a most compli- 
cated piece of carving, rising in 
tiers, With eaves about 2 ft brua-!, 
which rest on bar-hke corbels from 
the pillars. The principal en- 
trance faces the N.W., and has 
one elephant remaining at the 
side, much mutilated , there is a 
quadruple pendant in the centre 
The niches are shell-shaped . There 
are four portals, 7 ft. sq. each, and 
each with four black basalt pillars. 
There is no image. Dr Burges- 
says : “ The pillars of the temple 
are square and massive, but 
reheved by having all the prin- 
cipal facets, the triangles on the 
base and neck carved with floral 
ornamentations. The door lead- 
ing from the mandapam to the 
temple has been carved with 
uncommon care. On the centre 
of the lintel is a Tirtiiankar, and 
above the cornice are four squat 
human figures. On the neat 
colonnettes of the jambs are five 
bands with human groups, in 
some of which the figures are little 
more than an inch high, yet in 
high relief ; inside this is a band 
of rampant sinhas (Uons), with a 
sort of high frill round their necks. 
Outside the colonnettes is a band 
of chakwas, or sacred geese, 
another of sinhas, and then one 
of human figures, mostly on 
bended knees.’' 

To the S.E. ol this temple is the 


mosque above - mentioned, called 
the Masjid - i - Safa. Over the 
entrance a Persian inscription 
records its being built m 1519 a.d. 
The mosque was built by Azad 
Khan, a famous Bijapur captain. 
Governor of Belgaum during the 
first half of the i6th century. 

St Mary*s Church stands m the 
Lantonnient N.W. of the towm. 
It was consecrated in i8t>9. There 
lb a handsome ^Icmorial Cross in 
the compound to twenty- three 
sergeants of H.M.G 04tii, who died 
during the Persian and Indian 
campaigns, 1856-8. Shooting 
passes can be had for Rs.25 from 
the Conservator of Forests, S.D., 
Belgaum, for the jungles 111 the 
S. of Belgaum District and in 
the neighbouring District of N. 
Kanara. 

At Sutgati, 14 m. from Belgaum, 
there are two Indian hg-trecs ol 
\^ery great size. The first is near 
the D.B. The stem forms a wall 
of timber extending 40 ft., and 
rises to a great height ; the 
branches spread out 100 ft. round 
the trunk. The other tree is 
about I m. from the bungalow, 
and though not remarkable fur 
height, covers a larger surface ol 
ground. 

278 m. Londa junction station 
{K. ). Line to Hubli, and thence 
E. to Bezwada, at the head of the 
delta of the Krishna River, and 
S.E. to Bangalore (see p. 505). 

293 ni. Castle Eock station (K.)* 
Fiere, at the Irontier of the 
Portuguese territory of Goa, the 
S. Mahratta line is joined by the 
West of India Portuguese Railway, 
which in 51 m. runs dowui the 
Braganza Ghat to IVIormugao, the 
seaport of Goa. In the first 10 m 
the line passes through a dozen 
tunnels, ranging from 150 ft. to 
838 ft. m length, which had 
to be cut almost entirely out ol 
the solid rock. Apart from its 
commercial importance, the line 



ROUTE 27 . MORMUGAo NEW AND OLD GOA 487 


possesses much interest for lovers 
of the picturesque, as it runs 
through magnificent scenery. 

308 m. Dudh Sagsir station, or 
the " sea of milk,” where there is 
a very fine waterfall. 

362 m. Vasco da Qama. 

364 m. The terminus of the 
railway is on the quay at the Port 
of Mormugao, which, as well as the 
line, is the property of the West of 
India Portuguese Railway Com- 
pany. Arrangements have been 
made that the trade there shall 
be as free as in British India. 

TheB.I.S.N. Company's and the 
Shepherd Company's vessels run to 
and from Bombay in twenty-six 
hours. 

In approaching Goa from Bom- 
bay by sea the steamer enters a 
spacious harbour formed by two 
estuaries, with the Ilha de Goa in 
between them, and embraced by 
two rocky promontories. At the 
extremity of the S. arm Salsete is 
the landing - place and quay of 
Mormugao, where a steamer of 
4000 tons can be berthed. Here, 
at the foot of a sandy cliff, is the 
Terminus of the railway. To 
reach New and Old Goa from it a 
small steamer crosses the estuary 
of Mormugao, rounds the Cabo, 
the W. point of the island, enters 
the estuary of Aguada, ascends 
the Mandovi, one of the tw'o rivers 
falling into it, and passes, near its 
mouth, the fine Fortress and 
Church of Reis Magos, on the S. 
promontory of Bardes. On the 
right is the island of Goa, and upon 
it, at about 4 m. from Mormugao, 
stands 

New Goa, * otherwise Panjim, a 
town of no pretence. It contains 
9588 inhabitants, and more than 
half the Indian population are 
Christian descendants of Hindus 
converted by the Jesuits and other 
religious orders. 


A row of handsome buildings 
lines the quay, including the Old 
Fort, now the residence of the 
Governor- General, who removed 
hither from Old Goa about 1760, 
and in 1843 made this the seat 
of government and capital of the 
Portuguese territory in India. 
Here also is the Palace of the 
Archbishop, who is Primate of 
the Roman Cathohc Church in 
India. It contains some life-sized 
portraits of the Archbishops. 

At a short distance to the W. of 
the residence of the Governor- 
General are the Barracks, which 
hold the standing army of 740 
men. In front of them is a statue 
of Affonso d 'Albuquerque the 
founder of Old Goa, brought from 
there. 

The ” Goa Boys,’* so well known 
in Bombay and in other parts of 
India as servants, come from Goa. 

A good road (conveyances avail- 
able) leads from New to Old Goa 
about 5 m. higher up the valley, 
at first crossing a causeway thrown 
over the swamp to Ribandar 
village. From here cocoanut 
plantations and dwelling - houses 
line the way, which commands a 
fine view N. across the river to the 
hilly, wooded country beyond, 
and includes a conspicuous round 
hill, crowned by a Church and 
conventual buildings, upon the 
river-island of Divar. Fn route 
are passed the later Archiepis- 
copal Palace and the Fountain 
of Banguenim, which used to 
furnish water to Old Goa. 

Old Goa (Goa Velha, ” Senhora 
i de codo o Onente,” Camoens, 2, 

I 51) owes its origin to Affonso 
; d 'Albuquerque, who at the head 
1 of twenty ships and 1200 troops 
carried by storm a small coast 
town of the Bijapur State in 
; 1510 A. D. On this site he founded 
I the Christian city. It rose 
' rapidly into prosperity and im- 
portance, and by the middle of 
, the 1 6th century became the 
: wealthiest city in all India (Goa 



India 


488 ROUTE 27. POONA TO GOA : OLD GOA 


dourada), the capital and seat of j 
Government of the then vast j 
Portuguese territory, with a popu- 
lation of 200,000 — ilha illustns- 
sima de Goa, Camoens. More- 
over, it was the first Christian 
colony in the Indies and the scene 
of the labours of St Francis 
Xavier in 1542-52. But decay 
followed rapidly, first owing to 
the attacks of the Dutch, whose 
fleets blockaded its harbour, and 
next because of its site prov- 
ing pestilential, and it became 
deserted by its inhabitants. I It is 
now literally a city of ruins, with a 
population of 155 inhabitants, and 
is so hidden from view by the foli- 
age of the jungle which has occu- 
pied it that the stranger ap- 
proaches it unawares, and drives 
into the midst unconscious that he 
is traversing streets of ruined, 
empty dwelhngs, occupied by 
cocoanut and other tall trees in- 
stead of by human beings. 

In the midst of all this ruin Goa 
remains a city of magnificent 
churches, four or five ranking as 
first class and in .perfect preserva- 
tion, though the style of architec- 
ture betrays the degraded taste 
of the Jesuits. 

The road from Panjim leads 
past the Arsenal on the left and 
the hill of the Church of the 
Rosary on the right into a large 
central square, named the Pelou- 
rinho from the stocks in it, and 
surrounded by churches and con- 
vents. The most important of 
these and the hohest, because it 
contains the body of St Francis 
Xavier, is the Bom (the Good) 
JesuS, on the right (S.) side, 
erected m 1594, Its handsome 
fa9ade runs on into that of another 
great building with lofty halls 
and lengthy corridors, all empty, 
the Convent of the Jesuits, which, 

i Goa in its palmy state is a-’niirably de- 
scribed by Captain Marryat in his Phantom 
Ship; in its present ■■.rate by Ciiaham 
Sandberg, Murray s Maeazing, November 
1890 Jf. N. Fcnseca's Skgtck 0/ the City 
of Goa IS full of interesting information. 


though not finished until 1590, 
thirty-eight years after the death 
of St Francis, had the merit of 
rearing and sending forth over the 
i w^orld an admirable and devoted 
j band of missionaries, the children 
of that saintly man W'ho w^orked 
so hard for the salvation of the 
heathen in India, China, Japan, 
Paraguay, and N. America. The 
order was suppressed here in 
1759, the other monastic orders 
in 1835, w^hen their property was 
confiscated to the State. The 
endowmients of the churches, how’- 
ever, have not been forfeited, and 
the Archbishop and the secular 
clergy of Goa still receive ailow'- 
ances from Government. 

The Cliurch of Bom Jesus may 
be entered by a side door from 
the Jesuits’ College, passing the 
Sacristy, a spacious hall, with 
wardrobes filled wuth rich pric.stl>' 
robes. Near it hangs a portrait 
of St Francis Xavier at the age 
of 44 — a dark face of sweet 
expression. 

The Tomb and Shrine of St 
Francis Xavier (1696) occupy a 
side chapel, richly adorned ; the 
w^'aUs are lined with pictures illus- 
trating some of the acts of his 
life. The monument is a stately 
structure, consisting of three tiers 
of sarcophagi of costly jasper 
and marble, and was the gift 
of a Grand Duke of Tuscany. 
The upper tier is ornamented 
with panels curiously wrought in 
coloured marbles so as to represent 
scenes in the life of the saint ; 
the whole is surmounted by the 
silver coffin containing the body, 
and adorned with reliefs also in 
silver, and with figures of angels 
in the same* metal supporting a 
cross. The coffin, w'eighmg 600 
marks of silver, is unlocked by 
three keys, in the keeping of the 
Viceroy, the Archbishop, and 
another, and has been frequently 
opened, disclosing to public view 
the body, which was long in won- 
derful preservation, but has now 
shrunk to a mummy. The body 



ROUTE 27. 


OLD GOA 


of the saint was translated here 
from the Sanchilo's isiand where 
it was originally buned. 

In the body of the church is a 
statue of the saint of solid silver, 
the gift of Donna Maria, wife of 
Pedro II. and Queen of Portugal. 

250 yds. distant, on the opposite 
side (X.) of the square, stands the 
Cathedral of St Catherine,^ built* 
in 1562-1623, the church next in 
importance to the Bom Jesus, and 
known as the Se Priina9iaL It is 
250 ft. long, 180 ft. wide, with 
fa9ade 116 ft. high, and has a 
whitewashed inside, with a high 
altar at the W. end It alone of 
all the churches retains a staff of 
priests — twenty - eight canons — 
who perform the service through- 
out the year. On looking from the 
terraced roof of the cathedral one 
cannot but think of the solemn 
and terrible sights that have been 
seen in the square below, when 
the great bell of this church tolled 
to announce the celebration of an 
auto-da-f<^. 

N.\V. of the cathedral is the 
Archbishop’s Palace, a magnificent 
residence, still occupied occasion- 
ally. 

W. of the cathedral is the once 
gorgeous Church of San Francisco 
d ’Assisi, the oldest here, having 
been adapted from a mosque. It 
was, however, rebuilt 1521, except 
the porch, which is original, and 
is in fair repair. 

In front of the cathedral stood 
the Palace of the Ijuiuisition, with 
its dungeons and prisons, estab- 
lished in 1560 and suppressed in 
1814, now an overgrown heap of 
ruins an acre in extent. 

S. of the Inquisition, at the 
X.E. corner of the square, were 
the buildings of the Misericord ia, 
enclosing the Church of Xossa 
Senhora de Serra, built by Albu- 
querque in fulfilment of a vow at 
sea, and in which he was originally 
buried. From these the Rua 

‘ '3oa wma r«ta,p{ureii wit M Catherine's 
1 )ui . 


480 

I Direita led to the river iront and 
I the Viceroy’s Palace. The Arch 
I of the Viceroys, which stiU bears 
j the deer crest of Vasco da Gama, 

1 stands over the prmcipal landing- 
i place known as the Ribeira dos 
I Vicereys, which extended W. to 
j the Quai of the GaUeys (Ribeira 
dos Gales) and E. to the Cus- 
toms House (Alfandanga) and the 
Great Bazar. The Palace is a 
rum. E. of the Palace and the 
bazar is the Church of Si Cajeian, 

I perhaps the best preserved, built 
; 1665, and surmounted by a dome 
i and by two low towers ; the fa9adc 
i IS of red laterite, whitewashed 
I The convent is now the Museum , 
j where some curiosities of the olden 
I time are preserved : it contains 
[ some life-sized portraits of the 
1 Viceroys and Governors, and there 
I the Governor-General stops on his 
i periodical visits to old Goa. Be- 
i yond lay the convent of the Domi- 
! nicans, with that of the Carmehtes 
; on a hall, and the famous mission- 
i ary College of Saint Paul, or Santa 
I Fe. which is about m. E. from the 
! Bom Jesus. The autos-da-fe used 
I to take place in the Campo San 
j Lazaro, near this. At the W. end 
I of the town, near the Arsenal, was 
I the famous Royal Hospital, the 
'first established by Europeans in 
the East 

The following facts concerning 
the Portuguese possessions in 
India will no doubt prove of 
j interest. The total population is 
[ under 550,000, of which the Goa 
' territory contains 486,752. This 
territory has a coast- line of about 
65 m , and includes the small 
island of Angediva, near Carwar. 
It is divided into two tracts, known 
as the Old and New Conquests 
(Velhas e Novas Conquistas), and 
j these are subdivided into three 
r and seven District charges, at the 
I head of each of which is an Admin- 
j istrator and a Municipal Council. 
I Daman (p. 162) is divided into 
: two such charges, while Diu, an 
I island oli the S.E. coast of Kathia- 
I war, constitutes one only ; these 



ROUTE 28. HOTGI JUNCTION TO BIJAPUR 


India 


490 


two are under separate Governors 
subordinate to the Governor-Gen- 
eral, who is also -Governor of Goa, 
as the Governor-General of India 
was once Governor of Bengal. 
There is a High G?urt {Tribunal de 
Relacao) of second instance at 
Goa, consisting of five judges, 
which has jurisdiction over Macao [ 
and Timor as well as over the f 
Portuguese possessions in India, ! 
and a subordinate judge in each 
District. The European military 
force consists of 163 men ; the 
Indian force amounts to 2276. 
There are engineering and health 
Departments. Panjim has a Ly- 
ceum, a normal school, and a 
medical school, and some 105 
primary schools exist in the Goa 
country. The annual revenue of 
the Portuguese possessions in I 
India IS about 1,061,734 escudos \ 
(4 escudos 50 cents, at par=;^i), j 
of which customs yield about ; 
307,400 escudos {35 cents of an 
escudos — 1 rupee) ; this source of 
income is pledged for payment 
of interest on the railway. 

The following details regarding 
the conqueror and founder of Goa 
will be found interesting : Affonso 
d 'Albuquerque was born in 1453, 
and was therefore fifty years old 
when he visited Cochin and Quiloil | 
on his first journey to India in 
1503. In 1506 he occupied Soco- 
tra on behalf of the Portuguese 
Crown, and in November 1509 he 
became Governor of the Eastern 
possessions of that Crown. Pan- 
J im was taken and Goa su rren- 
dered early in the follovdng year, ' 
and the latter was stormed and ^ 
recovered from the Bijapur troops 1 
on 25 th November i< Uowing, | 
During the next two years the 
Governor was occupied with the 
affairs of Malacca ; in 1513 he 
attempted to capture Aden, but , 
failed; and in 1514 he caused a ! 
fort to be erected at Calicut after 
the Zamorin had been poisoned. ; 
In February 1515 he proceeded to | 
Ormuz and obtained possession of I 
the fort there, and died on his 


way back from that place to Goa 
on i8th December 1515. His 
body was finally transferred to 
Lisbon, and now rests there m 
the Church. of Nossa Senhora da 
Graca 


ROUTE 28. 

HOTGI JUNCTION TO BIJAPUK, 
Gadag, Huhli, Dharwar, and 
Londa, with Excursion to Caves 
and Temples of Bad ami. 

Hotgi junction station (R ) 

9 m. E. of Sholapur, on the hue 
from Bombay to Madras {see 
Route 26). Between the first and 
second stations from Hotgi the 
Bhima River is crossed, flowing in 
a deep rocky bed. From Hincli' 
nal, the station before Bijapur, the 
domes and minarets of the city 
are plainly seen to the S. 

58 m. BIJAPUR 1 station * 
(originally Vijayapura, City of 
Victory ”) (R., D.B. ; population 
27,615). The railway station is 
E. of the city and close to the 
Gol Gumbaz, the great tomh 
of Muhammad ’Adil Shah. 

Yusaf Khan, the first King of 
Bijapur on the decay of the 
Bahmani dynasty, was a son of 
Amurath II., of Anatoha, and a 
Turk of pure blood, whose mother 
was forced to fly with him from 
Constantinople while he was still 
an infant. After a varied career 
he was purchased for the body- 

^ An admirable guide by Mr H. Cous*;!!^? 
C. I.E., giving details of all the building'' 
and a valuable historical sketch of the ’Adu 
Shahi dynasty, can be bought at the princi- 
pal booksellers in Bombay and Poona. 







ROUTE 28. BIJAPUR — TORWEH OR NAURASPUR 49I 


guard at Bidar (p. 505), and raised ] 
himself to such pre-eminence that ; 
in 1489 he was enabled to proclaim ] 
his independence and establish | 
himself as the founder of the ’Adil j 
Shahi Kings of Bijapur. Tht- ' 
folio mng is the order of their ; 
succession - 


Yusaf Khan, 

’Adil Shah 1489 1 

Ismail 

M 1510 1 

Mallu 

5 ) 1534- 

Ibrahim I. 

1534 ! 

Ali I. 

1557 j 

Ibrahim II. 

,, 1580 [ 

Muhammad 

1627 I 

'AH II. 

1656 

Sikandar 

,, 1672 to 1686 


ill which year the citv was taken | 
by Atirangzeb. The great archi- 
tectural outburst of the place 
followed on the capture and spoil 1 
of Vijayanagar (p. 516) after the | 
Battle of Tahkota in 1565. The ! 
kingdom extended to the West I 
Sea, and Goa was a portion of it j 
The Kaladgi Histrict was re- ! 
named Bijapur in 1SS3, when | 
Government decided to re-occupy ! 
the old capital as administra- ‘ 
tive headquarters of the District, j 
Great difficulty was experienced I 
m clearing ground for roads and | 
houses from the large areas of | 
prickl}^ pear that had to be j 
removed, but this was gradually , 
done, and the station is now well ' 
planted with trees. Those who ! 
object to the utihtarian uses to j 
which a number of tlie buildings ' 
at Bijapur have been put, must ! 
also remember that by its action | 
Government has saved these and j 
the other buildings from the ! 
complete destruction which was j 
threatening them. ! 


, Tor w eh, or Naiiraspur, about > 
1610 A.D. was a great suburb — a j 
rival city, to the W. of Bijapur ; | 
but when Aurangzeb took the ! 
latter the former was “ quite j 
depopulated, its ruined Palaces ] 
only remaining, with a thick wall j 
^surrounding it, whose stately 1 
gateways were falling to decay.'' 


This suburb, then, whose walls 
extended 3 in. from the W. gate 
of the fort, and probably other 
suburbs which have now utterly 
perished, must have been included 
in the 30 in. circuit which tradition 
ascribes to Bijapur. What is 
called the city now is the fort, of 
which Grant Dufi says it was 
6 m. in circumference. Within 
the circuit of the fort is the 
citadel, with walls extending 
1650 ft. from N. to S. and 1900 ft. 
from W. to K. An examination 
of the buildings will give proof of 
the former riches and magnificence 
of this old capital. Two days will 
not be too much to devote to the 
principal buildings alone. 


The Gates of the fort or city 
are : — 

The Fateh Gate (i),’ in the 
centre of the S. wall of tlie city, by 
which Aurangzeb is said to have 
entered. 

The Shahapur Gate (2), on the 
X.W. The gate itself is furnished 
with long iron spikes on the out- 
side, to protect it from being 
battered in by the elephants of 
an enemy. This was a common 
device throughout India. S. of 
it, on the W. of the city, is the 

Zohrapur - Jorapur Gate {3) ; 
and 600 ft. to the S. of that is the 

jNIakka Gate (4), with represen- 
tations on either side of lions 
trampling on an elephant. This 
gate is closed and converted 
into a school. A less imposing 
one, a few hundred yds. farther 
X., serves its purpose. Almost 
exactly opposite to it, on the E. 
bide oi the city, is the 

'Alipur Gate (5), or Fligh Gate, 
wrongly called in maps and else- 
where the Allahpur Gate. X of 
it IS the 

Padshahpur Gate (6). near the 
railway station. 

In the centre of the X. wall is 
the Bahmani Gate (7). 

J The numbers refer to the corresponding 
numberi. on the plan of Bijapur. 



ROUTE 28. HOTGI JUNCTION TO BIJAPUR 


India 


4^2 

On the E. side of the city, dose 
to the railway station, is the 
Mausoleum of Muhammad ' Adil 
Shahy seventh King, a magnificent 
structure, generally called the Gol 
Guinhaz, or Round Dome '' (8). 
Mr Fergusson, in his Hist, of 
Ind. Arch. (2, 273), says of this 
building : " The tomb of Muham- 
mad was in design as complete a 
contrast to that" of Ibrahim II. 
(see p. 497), " as can well be 
imagined, and is as remarkable for 
simple grandeur and constructive 
boldness as that of Ibrahim was 
for excessive richness and con- 
tempt of constructive properties. 
It IS constructed on the same 
principle as that employed in the 
design of the dome of the great 
mosque, but on so much larger a 
scale as to convert into a wonder 
of constructive skill what, in that 
instance, was only an elegant 
architectural design." It is built 
on a platform 600 ft. square and 
2 ft. high. In front is a great 
gateway, 94 ft. by 88 ft., with a 
Kakkar Khana (music gallery), 
now a museum of Bijapur anti- 
quities. The tomb js a square 
building, with sides measuring 196 
ft. (exterior), and at each corner is 
a tower, seven storeys high. In 
the centre is the great dome, 124 ft. 
in diameter, while that of St 
Peter's is 139 ft., and that of St 
Paul's 108 ft. Over the entrance 
are three inscriptions — " Sultan 
Muhammad, inhabitant of Para- 
dise " ; " Muhammad, whose end 
was commendable " ; " Muham- 
mad became a particle of heaven 
(lit. House of Salvation), 1067." 
The date, thus three times re- 
peated, is 1659 A.D. The surface 
of the building for the most part 
is covered with plaster. Each 
facade has a wide, lofty arch in 
its centre, pierced with small 
windows and a blind one on either 
side, and above it is a cornice of 
grey basalt and a row' of small 
arches supporting a second hue of 
plain work, surmounted by a 
balustrade 6 ft. high. The corner 


towers are entered from winding 
staircases in the thickness of the 
w'alls of the main building, and 
terminate in cupolas. Each 
storey has seven small arched 
window’s opening into the court 
below. From the eighth store}' 
there is an entrance to a broad 
gallery inside the dome, w’hich is so 
wude that a carriage might pas^ 
round it Here there is a most 
remarkable echo ; a soft w’hisper 
at one point of the gallery can be 
heard most distinctly at the 
opposite point, and, as Mr Cousens 
says, " one pair of feet is enough 
to awaken the echoes of the tread 
of a regiment." The great hall. 
135 ft. square, over w’hich the 
dome IS raised, is the largest domed 
space in the world. The internal 
area of the tomb is 18,225 sq. ft , 
while that of the Pantheon at 
Rome IS only 15,833. " At the 

height of 57 ft. from the floor- 
line," says Mr Fergusson (Hist, 
of Ind. Arch.y 2, 274), “ the 

hall begins to contract by a 
series of pendentives as in- 
genious as they are beautiful, 
to a circular opening 97 ft. in 
diameter. On the platform of 
these pendentives, at a height 
of 109 ft. 6 in., the dome is 
erected, 124 ft. 5 in. in diameter, 
thus leaving a gallery more than 
1 2 ft. wide all round the 
interior. Internally the dome 
IS 178 ft. above the floor, and 
externally 198 ft. from the outside 
platform ; its thickness at the 
springing is about 10 ft., and a.t 
the crown 9 ft." ^ From the 
gallery outside there is a flne view- 
over Bijapur. On the E. 

^ “ The moi,t ingenious and novel part of 
the construction is the mode in which its 
lateral and outward thrust is counteracted! 
1 hk was accomplished by forming the pen- 
dentives so that they not only cut off thy 
angles, but that, as shown in the plan, their 
arches intersect oae another and forni a 
very considerable mass of masonry perfectly- 
stable in itself ; and, by its weight acting 
inwards, counteracting any thrust that can 
possibly be brought to bear upon it by the 
pres::>ure of the dome.” — Fergusson, Inti 
Arch , 2, 274 



iiUllMlIt: 




494 


ROUTE 28. HOTGI JUNCTION TO BIJAPUR 


India 


'Alipur ; on the W. are seen the 
Ibrahim Rauza, the Upari Burj, 
the Sherza Burj, or Lion Bastion, 
and to the N.W. the unfinished 
tomb of/Ali 'Adil Shah II,, and 
about I m. towards the N. the 
mins of the villages of the masons 
and painters employed on the Gol 
Gurabaz ; and on the S W. is the 
dome of the Jami Masjid. There 
is a small annexe to the mausoleum 
on the lately roofed over, built 
by Sultan Muhammad as a tomb, 
it is supposed, for his mother, 
Zohra Sahiba, from whom one of 
the suburbs was called Zohrapur, 
now called Jorapur. It was never 
finished or occupied 

Below the dome is the cenotaph 
of Sultan Muhammad in the 
centre. On the E. side are the 
graves of his youngest wife and of 
the son of 'Ali 'Adil Shah II. ; 
on the W. are those of his favourite 
Hindu mistress and dancing-girl 
Rambha, his daughter, and hi.s 
eldest wife, mentioned by Bernier. 

On the edge of the platform W. 
is the mosque attached to the 
mausoleum, a building of no mean 
size and of considerable beauty of 
design, but quite eclipsed by the 
size of the Gol Gumbaz. 

The museum of Bijapur anti- 
quities in the Nakkar Khana, 
referred to above, should be 
visited, though the collections 
are still in an incomplete condition. 
They include* some of the famous 
Bijapur carpets. 

The Jami Masjid (9), nearly J m. 
S.W. of the Gol Gumbaz, is entered 
by a gateway on the E. side. 
The surrounding wall was never 
completed on the E. The arcades 
on the N. and S- sides are 31 ft. 
broad. In the centre of the 
quadrangle is the hauz or tank for 
ablutions, now dry. Mr Fergus- 
son says : V Even as it is, it is one 
of the finest mosques in India.” 

It was commenced by 'Ali *Adil 
Shah I. (1557-79), and, though 
continued by his successors, was 
never completely finished. The 


mosque proper has a facade of 
nine bays, and is five bays in 
depth. Each of the squares into 
which it is divided has a domed 
roof, beautiful, but so flat as to 
be concealed externally. The 
centre, a space 70 ft. square, 
corresponding to twelve of these 
squares, is roofed over by the 
great dome, which is 57 ft. in 
diameter. It is supported on 
pendentives in the same manner 
as the Gol Gumbaz. The pave- 
ment below the dome is of chunam, 
divided by black lines into numer- 
ous squares called musallahs, or 
compartments for persons to pray 
on imitating the musallah, or 
prayer-carpet, which the faithful 
carry with them to the mosques. 
These were made by order of 
Aurangzeb when he carried away 
the velvet carpets, the large golden 
chain, and other valuables belong- 
ing to the mosque. 

The mihrab, which marks the 
place on the W. to which 
the people turn in prayer, is 
gilded and ornamented with much 
Arabic writing. There is also a 
Persian quatrain. The date is 
1636 A.D. 


The Mihtari Mahal (10) is the 
napie given to the entrance gate- 
way to the Mihtari Mosque, a 
building of minor importance. 
It stan& between the Jami Masjid 
and the citadel, on the S. of the 
road. It is a small but elegant 
structure, three storeys high, with 
minarets at the comers and 
ornamental car\dng in soft stone 
about its bdlconied and project- 
ing windows. Mr Fergusson says 
(2, 278) of this structure : “ One 
of the most remarkable edifices is 
a little gateway, known as the 
Mihtari Mahal. It is in a mixed 
Hindu and Muhammadan style, 
every part and every detail 
covered with ornament, but 
always equally appropriate and 
elegant. Of its class it is perhaps 
‘the best example in the countr5% 



ROUTE 28. 

though this class may not be the 
highest ” 

The Palace of the Asar-i~Sharif I 
{i i)/‘ illustrious relics/' which are ' 
hairs of the Prophet's beard, is 
a large heavy-looking building of 
brick and lime, standing outside 
the moat of the inner citadel and 
the centre of its E. rampart. The 
£. side is entirely open from the 
ground to the ceiling, which is 
supported by four massive teak 
pillars, 60 ft. high. This forms a 
deep portico 36 ft, broad, and 
loofc upon a tank 250 ft. square 
The ceiling of the veranda or 
portico is panelled in wood and 
has been very handsomely painted. 
The whole of the \V. side is occu- 
pied by rooms in two storeys. A 
thght of stairs ascends to a hall 
81 ft. long and 27 ft. broad, where 
some of the fine old carpets and 
brocades of the Palace are shown 
under glass. Most of the former 
have now been transferred to the 
Museum. Opening right from this 
hall is an upper veranda or ante- 
chamber which looks dowm into 
the portico (already described) 
below. Its ceilings and walls 
have been gilded ; the doors are 
inlaid with ivory, and in the palmy 
days of Bijapur the effect must 
have been very striking. The 
Asdr-i-Sharif formerly communi- 
cated on its W. side with the 
citadel by means of a bridge, of 
which nothing now remains but 
the piers. Originally built as a 
court of justice by Muhammad 
Shah about 1646, it succeeded to 
the honour of holding the precious 
relics of the Prophet after a 
similar building within the citadel 
had been burned down. 

The Arkilla or Citadel. — The 
only citadel gateway that remains 
Is at the extreme S., facing E. ; 
here the walls are full of ancient 
pillars and sculptured stones, 
taken from Jain temples which 
probably stood on this spot 
when the Muhammadans stormed ) 


bijapur 495 

the citadel. Other stones were 
utilised in the constnirfiou of 
the two “ old mosques ” w'lthin 
the citadel. 

The Old Mosque (12), just N.W. 
of the gate, is a converted Jain 
temple. The central mandapam, 
or hall, two storeys high, serves 
as the porch. The inner doorway, 
with its perforated screens, is 
Muhammadan work. The mosque 
proper is made up of Hindu or 
Jain pillars of various patterns 
and heights. At the N. side, near 
the centre row, is a w^onderfully 
handsome and elaborately-carved 
black pillar, and to the N.E. of 
it an ancient Kanarese inscription. 
On several of the pillars around 
are inscriptions, some in Sanskrit 
and some in Kanarese. One bears 
the date 1320 a.d. 

The Anand Mahal (i 3) , or ‘ ' Palace 
of Delight,” where the ladies of 
the seraglio lived, is in the centre 
of the citadel. It was built by 
Ibrahim II. in 1589, and intended 
partly for his own use, but the 
fa9ade was never finished. It 
contains a very fine hall, and 
is now the Assistant-Collector's 
residence. The Station Club is 
also located lure 


The Gagan Mahal (14), or (sky) 
” Heavenly Palace,” supposed to 
have been built by 'AH 'Adil Shah 
I., is on the W. of the citadel close 
to the moat, and faces N. It has 
three magnificent arches. The 
span of the central one is 61 ft., 
and that of each of the side arches 
18 ft. The height of all three is 
the same — about 50 ft. It w^as 
used as a darbar hall, and on the 
roof was a gallery, from which the 
ladies could see what occurred on 
the open space in front. It is said 
that here the Emperor Aurangzeb 
received the submission of the 
King and the nobles on the fall 
of Bijapur. 



ROUTB 28. HOTGI JUNCTION TO BIJAPUR 


India 


4q6 

An old gateway of the Palace 
to the S.E of the Gagan Mahal 
has been converted into the 
Station Church (15), In plan it 
is a square ; the roof is supported 
by four pillars, and it is decorated 
with exquisite relief patterns in 
fiat plaster work. The beautifully 
wrought-iron screen was found in 
the Chini Mahal. 

About 150 yds. to the N.E of 
th^ Gagan Mahal is another old 
mosque (16), built with the stones 
of a Jain temple. It has ten rows 
of pillars seven deep 


E. of this Is the Adalat Mahal, 
now the Collector's residence, with 
a small mosque on the N. side, and 
an extremely pretty pavilion or 
pleasure house E. of it and in 
front of the Civil Surgeon's resi- 
dence, on a comer of the citadel 
waU. A little tq the N. of this is 
Yakut DabulVs Tomb and Mosque. 
The tomb is square, with stone 
lattice - work screens. It was 
Yakut Dabuli who decorated the 
mihrab of the Jami Masjid. 


On the extreme W. of the 
citadel is the Sat ~ Manztli (17), 
or ** Seven Storeys," Rambha’s 
pleasure Palace, from the top of 
which the whole city could be 
overlooked. Of this only five 
storeys now remain- A peculiar- 
ity of the building is the number 
of water-pipes and cisterns round 
about it- It formed the N.E. 
corner of a vast structure wrongly 
called the Granary (18), at the S. 
end of which is a large building, 
which was the public Palace of the 
Kings, where their public audi- 
ences were held. 

This Palace is called the Chini 
Mahal (19), from the quantity of 
broken china found there, and 
possesses a fine hall 128 ft. long. 
It is now used as the Collector's 
office and the Judge's Courts. 

l*n front of the Sat-Manzili (17), 
in the centre of the road, stands a 


beautifully ornamented little pavi- 
lion known as Jal Mandir, (20). 
signifying that jets of water played 
in it. From this the moat of 
the citadel is crossed by a cause- 
way 140 ft. long, but the average 
breadth of the moat may be taken 
as 150 ft. Opposite the end of the 
causeway on the outside is the 
Malika Jahan or Jhanjiri Mosque, 
one of the most effective buildings 
in all Bijapur. 


N.E. of the gateway and the Old 
Mosque is the Makka Masjid (21), 
a miniature mosque of beautiful 
proportions and great simplicity 
of design. The massive minarets 
at the corners of the high walls 
which surround it in all prot^- 
bility belonged to an earlier 
building. The faqade of the 
mosque proper has five bays of 
arches about 8 ft. high, is two 
bays deep, and is surmounted by 
a dome. 

Immediately to the W. is a huge 
walled space, the H^thikhana, as 
it is thought to have been an ele- 
phant stable, and adjoining it S. is 
a tower which was probably used 
for the storage of grain. Close by 
on the E. wall of the citadel is the 
picturesquely situated high-stand- 
ing Chinch Diddi Mosque. 

The unfinished Tomb of "Ali 
'Adil Shah II- (22) lies outside the 
citadel to the N It is a noble 
ruin, a square with seven large 
Gothic-looking arches on each 
side, constructed on a terrace 
15 ft. high and 215 ft. square. 
Had not the death of the Sultan 
put a stop to its progress and 
prevented its completion in con- 
formity With the original design, 
it would have surpassed every 
other building at Bijapur both 
in magnificence and size. The 
cenotaph is in the centre enclo- 
sure, which is 78 ft. square, and 
if completed would have been 
crowned by a dome. 



ROUTE 28. BIJAPUR 


Close to this tomb on the S.W. 
IS the pretty Bukhara I^Iasjid, for 
a time used as the Fost Office (23), 
and just N. of this is the beautiful 
mosque and tomb of Sandal Khan. 
To the W. again, half-way to the 
Haidar Burj, is the Sikandar 
Rauza, the plain grave of the last 
ruler of Bijapur, who was com- 
pelled to surrender his kingdom 
to the ilughal Emperor. 

To the W. of the city, and near 
the Makka Gate, are two domed 
tombs close together and very 
much alike, known as the Jor 
Gumbaz and to Europeans as the 
“Two Sisters “ (24). The octagonal 
one contains the remains of Khan 
Muhammad, assassinated at the 
instigation of Sultan Muhammad 
for his treacherous dealings with 
Aurangzeb, and of his son Khawas 
Khan, Wazir to Sikandar, The 
dome IS nearly complete, and 
springs from a band of lozenge- 
shaped leaves. The space within 
forms a beautiful room. The 
square building is the mausoleum 
of Abdul Razzak, the reUgious 
tutor of Khawas Khan. It is a 
large building, now much decayed. 
Near it S. is the Tomb, with its 
unfinished brick dome, of Kishway 
Khan, whose father, Asad Khan, 
IS repeatedly mentioned by the 
Portuguese. He founded the fort 
of Dharur m the time of 'Ali 'Add 
Shah I., and was taken and put 
to death by one of the Nizam 
Shahi Kings. 

The old execution tree, an 
Adamsonia or “ Gorak Imh,'' is 
passed on the way from the 
citadel to the “ Two Sisters,” in 
the compound of the Judge's new 
bungalow. 

! 

The Andu Masjid (25), 160S, 

stands on the E. side of the road, 
which runs S. from the citadel, 
ft is a two-storeyed building, the 
lower part forming a hall, and the 
upper part the mosque proper and 
Its small court. The facade has 
three bays ; it is surmounted by 


497 

a fiuted dome and four small 
minarets, and the masonry and 
workmanship are finer than those 
of any other building in Bijapur. 
A road running W. from here and 
S. of the “Iwo Sisters" leads to 
the tomb of the Begam Sahiba, 
a Wife of the Emperor Aurangzeb, 
who died of plague, and to the 
Nau Bagh. Mother road to the 
from opposite the house of the 
District Superintendent of Police, 
300 yds. S. of the Andu Mosque, 
leads to the Jami Mas] id of 
Ibrahim I., and, according to 
tradition, the tomb of 'Ali I. The 
latter is a simple building with a 
corridor all round it. In front of 
it, on a high platform, is a fine 
tombstone of dark green stone, 
both of which are richly and effec- 
tively carved. 

700 ft. N, of the Jami Masjid is 
Khawas Khan's MahaL Nawab 
Mustafa Khan’s Mosque, 400 yds. 
N. of this, and 500 yds. E. of the 
citadel, is a lofty building with a 
fa9ade of three arches and a cen- 
tral dome supported on penden- 
tives. Behind the mosque W. are 
the mins of the Khan’s Palace. 
jMustafa Khan Ardistam was a 
distinguished nobleman at the 
court of 'All ' Adil Shah I., and was 
murdered in 1381 a.d. by Kish war 
Khan, who usurped the regency 
in the time of Ibrahim 'Adil 
Shah II. 

Outside the W. wall of the city, 
400 yds. from the Makka Gate, is 

The Ibrahim Rauza (also called 
Roza) (26), a group of buildings 
which includes the tombs of 
Ibrahim II. 'Adil Shah, his Queen 
Taj Sultana, and four other mem- 
bers of his family. It is said to 
have been erected by a Persian 
architect. It is enclosed by a 
strong wail with a lofty gateway. 
The courtyard within was once 
a garden ; in the centre of it is 
raised an oblong platform, upon 
which stands the tomb, and to the 
W. of it a mosque, with a fountain 
and reservoir between them. The 


21 



490 ROUTE 28. HOTGI junction TO BIJAPUR India 


five arches which form the E. 
£a9ade of the Mosque are very 
graceful ; above them, under the 
rich comice, hang heavy chains 
cut out of stone. On each of the 
four sides of the Tomb is a colon- 
nade of seven arches, forming a 
veranda 15 ft. broad round the 
whole edifice; The pavement of 
this colonnade is slightly elevated, 
and its ceiling is exquisitely car^^ed 
with verses of the Koran, enclosed 
in compartments and interspersed 
with wreaths of dowers. The 
letters were originally gilded, and 
the ground is still a most brilliant 
azure. In some places the gilding 
also still remains. The border of 
every compartment is different 
from that of the one adjoining. 
The windows are formed of lattice- 
work of Arabic sentences, cut out 
of stone slabs, the space between 
each letter admitting the light. 
This work IS admirably executed, 
and there is nothing to surpass it 
in all India. Above the double 
arcade outside the building is a 
magnificent cornice with a minaret 
four storeys high at each comer 
and eight smaller ones between 
them. From an inner cornice, 
with four minarets on each sidei 
rises the dome. The plan of the 
building resembles that of the 
tombs at Golconda. The prin- 
cipal apartment in the tomb is 
40 ft. square, with a stone-slab 
roof, perfectly flat in the centre, 
and supported only by a cove 
projecting 10 ft. from the w^alls on 
every side. ^ How the roof is 
supported is a mystery which can 
only be understood by those who 
are familiar with the use the 
Indians make of masses of con- 
crete, and with exceedingly good 
morfar, which seems capable of 
infinite applications. Above this 
apartment is another in the dome 
as ornamental as the one below 
its only object is to 
obtein externally the height re- 
quired for architectural effect, and 
access to its interior can only be 
obtained by a dark, narrow stair- 


case in the thickness of the wall.” ' 
Over the N. door is an inscription 
in Persian extolling the building 
in very exaggerated terms. The 
j last line is a chronogram, which 
gives the date 1036 a.h. = i626 
A.D. Over the S. door is an- 
other inscription in praise of the 
monarch, with the date 1633. 
Over the same door is inscribed — 

{Trayzslaiion.} 

i he work of beautifying this Mausoleum 
was conjpleted b\ Malik Sandal. 2 
Taj-i-Sultan issued orders for the construc- 
tion of this Ro?a. 

At the beauty of vvhich Paradise stood 
amazed. 

He expended over lakhs of huns, 

And 900 more. 

The hun being Rs.3^, the total ex- 
pense was about /30,ooo. When 
Aurangzeb besieged Bijapur in 
16S6 he took up his quarters in 
the Ibraliim Rauza, which received 
some damage from the Bijapur 
guns. These injuries were par- 
tially repaired by the Raja of 
Satara, and the restoration was 
completed by the EngUsh. 

Guns and Bastions.— The Burj-i- 
Sherza, or “Lion Bastion" (27), 
so called from being ornamented 
by two lions’ heads in stone, is 
300 yds. N. of the Zohrapur Gate. 
In the W. wall on the right-hand 
side on ascending the steps of the 
bastion is an inscription stating 
that it was built in five months, 
and giving the date 1671. On the 
top of this bastion is a huge gun, 
called the Malik-i-Maidan. " Lord 
of the Battle Plain." At the sides 
of the muzzle the representation 
of the mouth of a monster swallow- 
ing an elephant is vrrought in 

1 From Fergusson's 0/ Ind. 

2, 273. Xbe author a'so says that 
Ibrahim commenced his tomb "on so 
imall a plan, n6 ft. sq., that it was only by 
ornament that he could render it worthy 
him&elf, his favourite wife, and other members 
of his family. ’’ 

^ The tomb of this personage is W. of the 
incomplete tomb of ’AJi 'Adil Shah II. See 
above. 



ROUTE 2 $. BJJAPVR 


499 


1‘eiief, It was cast at Ahmad- , 
nagar in a bell metal which takes i 
a very high polish. It is 14- ft 
long, the circumference is about 
13 ft. 6 in , and the diameter of 
the bore is 2 ft. 4 in. Just above 
the touch-hole is the following 
inscription— 

'] he \iorJv of Muhammad riin Runii. 

At the muzzle ib tlie following— 

1 ht ver\ant of ilie faimiy of tlie Propnei of 
(iod, Ahu I Ghazi ?s i-'ani Shah, 956 a h.( ^ 
1551 A.n ). 

At the muzzle is also — 

In the 30th year of the eA.aIted rei^^n 
too7 A H , Shah Alaiiigir, conqueror oi iiiii- 
aeli. King:, Defender of the Faith, 
Conquered Bijapur, and for the date of h:s 
tiiuniph, 

He fulfilled what justice required, and an- 
nexed the territory of the Shahs, 

Success showed itself, and he took the 
Maltk'i'Maidan. 

About 150 yds. E of the Slierza 
JBurj, and near the heavy Idgali, 

15 a strange building, called tlte 
Upari Burj, or "Upper Bastion/' 
also called the Haidar Bur] (2S), 
after a General of ’Ah I. and 
Ibrahim II. It is a tower 61 ft. 
high, oval in plan, with an out- 
side staircase. On the way up 
will be noticed a Persian inscrip- 
tion recording the building of 
the tower in 15S3. 

On the top are two guns made 
of longitudinal bars held together 
vath iron bands. The 
called the Lamcharri, " far flier,” 

16 30 ft. S in. long, and has a 
diameter of 2 ft. 5 in. at the 
muzzle and 3 ft. at the breech ; 
the bore is 12 m. in diameter. 
The other gun is 19 ft. 10 in. long, 
with I ft. diameter at the muzzle 
and I ft. 6 in. diameter at breech 

On the Lauda Kasa'o bastion, W. 
of the Fateh Gate and near the 
road from the Andu Masjid leading 
Uirough the S. wall, is also a fine 
gun measuring 21 ft. 7 in. long, 
with a diameter at the breech of 


4 ft. 4 in , and at the muzzle of 
4 ft. 5 in., which must weigh 
nearly 50 tons. 

There are several Tanks 111 
Bijapur. The principal one ib 
the Taj Bauri, named after Taj 
Sultana (29), roo yds. inside the 
Makka Gate. The E. wing of the 
fayade oi the tank is partly ruined 
and partly used as a Municipal 
store - house. The wing E 

occupied by the municipal offices 
Two flights of steps lead dowm to 
the water beneath an arch of 34 ft, 
span and about the same height, 
flanked by two octagonal towers,. 
The tank at the water’s edge is 
231 ft. square. The water comes 
partly from springs and partly 
from drainage, and is 30 ft. deep 
m the dry weather. 

The Chand Bauri— named after 
the famous Chand Bibi, the central 
figure of Meadows Taylor’s “ A 
Xoble Queen ” — m the N.W. 
corner of the city, was built in 
1579 A.D., on the model of the Taj 
Bauri, and also has a fine arch 
over the steps leading down to it. 

i-J m. to the S.W. of the 
Shahapur suburb, situated to the 
N.W. of the city, is the tomb and 
Palace of Afzal Khan (p. 481). 
Adjoining the latter is a mosque 
of two storeys, and on a platform 
to the S.W. are eleven rows of 
tombs of w’omen, wffiich have 
given rise to the tale that they 
were the waves of Afzal Khan 
put to death by him. It will 
be remembered that the rise 
both of Sivaji and his father 
Shahji was intimatel}’ connected 
with the Bijapur kingdom, and it 
was only the contact of the Delhi 
Emperors with that w'hich brought 
the Mahrattas into direct conflict 
with the Mughal power. 

Waterworks. — Bijapur W'as sup- 
plied wath abundant w'ater by 
underground ducts. One source 
of supply was a spring beyond 



500 


India 


ROUTE 28. HOTGI JUNCTION TO BIJAPUR : BADAMI 


the suburb of Torweli, 5 m. W. i 
of the citadel ; another was the : 
Begam Tank, 3m. to the S. j 
Along the line of the water supply i 
occur towers supposed to be for 1 
the purpose of relieving the pres- , 
sure in the pipes. The people 
evidently appreciated the ad\'an- 
tage oi having plenty of cool 
water about them, and traces of 
innumerable baths and cisterns 
are found in every direction. 
The water from the reser\^oirs, 
for instance, in the ruined Palace 
of Mustafa Khan, ran into a tank, 
from which it brimmed over into 
narrow stone channels, which 
passed in circuitous courses 
through the gardens, running over 
uneven surfaces to give it a 
sparkhng and nppling effect. 

Not long ago waterworks were 
constructed at Bhutnal, about 
4I m. N.W., and are worth a 
visit. 

The jail, the way to which 
passes between lines of mausolea, 
big and small, is located in an old 
musafarkhana or caravanserai of 
remarkable size and proportions, 
and is well worth a \'isit. Clo.se to 
it, the Amin Dargah, of consider- 
able importance, has a collection 
of old pictures. 

From Bijapur the line continues 
to 

113 m. Bagalkot, S. of the Krishna 
River. Some 25 m. E. from this 
on the river was fought the famous 
Battle of Tahkota on 23rd January 
1565, v'hich caused the downfall of 
the Vijayanagar kingdom (p. 516). 
The small town of Talikota lies 
30 m. N. of the field of battle. 

I2y m. Badami station. A 
District Bungalow close to the 
station and a smaller Inspection 
Bungalow in the town are generally 
available for tourists, on previous 
application to the Collector. The 
fort of Badami is to the N.E. of 
the town, 3 m. E. from the railway 
station, and on the heights above 


are some picturesque temples, 
from w'hich there is a fine view. 
To the S. is another rocky, fort- 
crowned hill, in the face of vrhich 
are four cave temples. The two 
hills (about 400 ft. high) approach 
so close to each other as to leave 
only a gorge, into which the town 
extends. E. of this is a fine tank. 
Badami was once the capital of the 
Chalukyas. 



Cave at Badami, from a plan by Dr Burgess. 


Three of the Cave Temples are 
Brahman works, and date from 
550 AD to 580 A.D. ; the fourth 
IS Jain, and probably dates from 

650 A.D. 

Dr Burgess writes of them : 
" They stand as to arrangement 
of parts between the Buddlust 
viharas and the later Brahmanical 
examples at Ellora. Elephanta. 
and Kanhen. The front wall of 
the Buddhist viliara, with its 
small windows and doors, admitted 
too little light ; and so here, while 
retaining the veranda in front, and 
further protecting the cave from 
rain and sun bv projecting eaves, 
the front of the Sala, or ‘ hall,’ 
was made quite open, except the 
spaces between the walls and the 
first pillars from each end. In the 
sculptures — at least of the second 
and third caves — Vishnu occupies 
the most prominent place. In 
style they vary much in details, 
but can scarcely differ much in 
age ; and as the third contains an 
inscription of Mangalesvara, dated 
Saka 500 — 578 A.D., we cannot be 




KOUTE 28. BADAMl 


far wrong m attributing them all 
to the 6 A century. The import- 
ance of this date can scarcely be 
overestimated, as it is the 'first 
of the kind yet discovered in a 
Brahmanical cave." In the \^er- 
anda of the First Cave, excavated 
about 50 ft. up in the face of the 
rock, and consecrated to Siva, are 
four pillars and two pilasters. 
The two pillars to the S. have been 
broken by lightning, and are now 
supported by wooden blocks. 
The pillars are slightly carved in i 
relief to about half-way from the 
top. The whole rests on a stylo- 
bate, along the front of which are 
Ganas (dwarf attendants of Siva) 
in all sorts of attitudes On the 
left of the veranda is a dwarpal 
with a Nandi over him. Opposite j 
this dwarpal is a figure of Siva, , 
5 ft. high, with eighteen arms, j 
dancing the tandava ^ Between | 
it and the cave is a chapel, and 
beyond an antechamber leading 
to the hall. In it, on the left, is 
Vishnu, or Harihara, with four 
hands, holding the usual symbols, 
and on the right the Arddhana- 
riswar, or combined male and 
female figure, attended by a 
Nandi bull and the skeleton Bring! . 

A figure of Maheshasuri, or Durga, 
destroying the bufialo - demon 
Maheshasiir is on the back wall, 
on the right w^all Ganpati, and on 
the left Skanda. Between the 
antechamber and the hall arc 
two pillars only. The hall has 
eight columns of the Elephanta 
type, and measures 42 ft. by 
24^ ft. The ceiling and that of 
the antechamber are divided into 
compartments by carved beams 
In the centre compartment of the 
former is a relief of the Great 
Snake’s head. At the back of 
the hall is a small chapel with a 
lingam. 

The Second Cave Temple»is rather 
higher up the cliff, and has a fine 
view. At the ends of the platform 
in front of it are two dwarpals 
with a female attendant. Four 

^ See descriptions on pp. 23-24. 


501 

; square columns, finely carved, 
j separate the platform from the 
I veranda, on the left of which is 
1 the Vahara Avatar, or Vishnu in 
the form of a boar, and on the 
right the Dwarf Avatar of Vishnu, 
dilated to an immense size, putting 
I one foot on the earth and lifting 
the other over the heavens. On 
the ceiling in front of this is 
Vishnu with four arms, riding on 
I Garuda, and in the central square 
j of the ceiling is a lotus with sixteen 
fishes round it. On the top of the 
wall in a frieze are the figures of 
Vishnu as Krishna. The entrance 
to the inner chamber, 33 ft. by 
23I ft., is like that of the first 
cave ; the roof of the chamber is 
supported by eight pillars ; and 
the corbels are lions, human 
figures, vampires, elephants, etc. 
The adytum has only a square 
Chavaranga, or altar. 

A sloping ascent and more 
flights of steps lead up to a plat- 
form, and a few steps beyond to a 
i doorway ; on the right of it is an 
j inscription in old Kanarese. At 
* the top of yet another flight of 
steps is the platform in front of 
The Thxrd Cave, below a scarp 
of 100 ft- of perpendicular rock. 
This cave, says Dr Burgess, is 
" by far the finest of the series, 
and, in some respects, one of 
the most interesting Brahmanical 
works in India." The facade is 
; 70 ft. from N to S , and has six 
I square pillars and two pilasters 
I i2i ft. high Eleven steps lead 
up to the cave, and on the stylo- 
bate Ganas are represented in 
relief. The brackets of the pillars 
represent male and female figures, 
Arddhanariswar, Siva, and Par- 
vati, and on the columns them- 
selves are carv^ed elaborate fes- 
toons, and below medallions with 
groups of figures. Traces of paint- 
ing are visible on the under side 
of the eaves and the roof of the 
veranda. At the W. end of the 
veranda is a statue of Narsingh, 
the fourth incarnation of Vishnu, 
a very spirited figure, ii ft. high. 



502 ROUTE 28 . HOTGI JUNCTION TO BIJAPUR : PATTADAKAL India 


On the S. wall is Harihara, of the I 
«5ame height' and beyond the ' 
veranda at the side of the first is , 
the Dwarf or Vamana Avatar. 

At the E. end is Narayan, seated 
under Sheshnag. On the outer ■ 
side of this is Vishnu recUning on ; 
a great snake, and on the inner wall 
is the Varaha, or Boar, incarna- 
tion ; to the right is an inscription 
in Kanarese. Between the veran- 
da passage and the hall are four 
pillars. The hall measures 65 ft. 
by 37 ft. Eight pillars, four to 
the front and two to the sides, 
form a space in front of the shrine ; 
and on each side is a recess 
separated off by three pillars 
The ceilings are divided into 
compartments throughout, with 
carved panels. 

The Fourth, or Jain Cave, lies \V 
of the other three. The platform 
beyond the wall overlooks the lake 
or tank, and commands a fine 
view. A broad overhanging eave 
has been cut out of the rock in 
front of this cave. The fagadc 
has four carved pillars and two 
pilasters. On the left of the 
veranda, 31 ft. by 6^ ft., is the 
Jain divinity Para snath, with 
bands round his thighs and cobras 
coming out below his feet. On 
the right of the veranda is a 
Gautama Swami attended by 
snakes. The hall behind is 25 ft. 1 
by 6 ft. ; in the shrine is a seated i 
statue of Mahavira. 

At Pattadakal, 10 m. N.E. of 
Badami, on the left bank oi 
the Malprabh River, accessibh 
only by cart or pony, are several 
temples, both Brahmanical and 
Jain, dating from the 7th or 8th , 
century. They “ are very pure 
examples of the Dravidian style i 
of architecture ; they are all ' 
square pyramids divided into , 
distinct storeys, and each store>' 
ornamented with cells alternately , 
oblong and square. Their style of 
ornamentation is also very much , 
coarser than that of the Chalukyan 
and differs very much in 


character. The domical termina- 
tion of the spires is also different, 
and much less graceful, and the 
overhanging cornices of double 
curvature are much more promin- 
ent and important " (Burgess). 
Besides these, the village possesses 
a group of temples, not remarkable 
for their size or architectural 
beauty, but interesting because 
they exhibit the two principal 
of Indian architecture, m 



absolute juxtaposition (see Archi- 
tecture of Dharwar and Mysore, 
pp. 63, 64). The Temple of 

Papnaih is of the N. style, and is 
probably rather older than that of 
Vifupaksha, which dates from the 
early part of the 8th century. 
The Temple of Papnath is 90 ft. 
long, including the porch, and 
40 ft, broad. There are sixteen 
pillars m the hall and four in the 
inner chamber, exclusive of those 
in the porches. ^ 

At Aiholi, 8 m. to the N.E- 
of Pattadakal, there is a very 
numerous collection of archaic 
temples, .well worth a careful visit. 
The Durga Temple has some very 
remarkable carving ; and here, 
tod, are many dolmens. 

^ Aiholi can best be reached from 
Katgen station, at a distanc* of 



ROUTE 28. GADAG LAKKANDI 


503 


about 12 m. from the railway ; 
for 8 m. there is a good tonga road. 

170 m. from Hotgi is Gadag 
junction station (R., D.B.). 

From Gadag the railway runs E. 
to Guntakal junction and W, to 
Hubli junction (for Bangalore and 
Mysore), Dharwar, and Londa 
junction. 

Gadag (anciently Kratuka) is a 
town of 30,429 inhabitants. The 
town is rapidly rising in import- 
ance as a railway junction and 
centre of cotton trade. There are 
a spinning and weaving mill and 
numerous cotton gins, besides 
presses. The cotton market with 
its numerous spacious godowns on 
both sides of a broad road lined 
with beautiful trees, and the 
Maconachie Market lately con- 
structed in the centre of the town 
at a cost of Rs.6000. are con- 
sidered to be the best designs in 
the whole of the Presidency. In 
its N.W. corner is a Vishnavite 
Temple. The entrance is under a 
high gateway or gopurara, with 
four storeys, and 50 ft. high. The 
door is handsomely carved with 
sixteen rows of figures in relief 
on either side. The Someswara 
Temple, now a school, is richly 
decorated throughout. 

In the fort is a fine Temple 
dedicated to Trimbakeswar or, 
as sometimes said, to Trikuteswar, 
the “ Lord of the Three Peaks.'' 
The outside is one mass of mqst 
elaborate carving. Two rows of 
figures run along the entire front 
and back ; those of the lower row 
are 2 ft. 9 in. high, including their 
canopy, and are 156 in number. 
In the upper row are 104 figures, 1 3 
in. high, 52 in the front, and the 
same m the back. Between the 
four pillars on the E. is a colossal 
bull. Immediately behind the 
main portion of the temple, to the 
right of the enclosure, is a Temple 
to Saraswaii. The porch is the 
finest part of it ; it contains eigh- 
teen pillars, some of them exquis- 
itely carved, and six pilasters. 


The three first of the two centre 
rows of pillars deserve particular 
notice for their elegance of design 
and exquisite carving.^ There are 
numerous inscriptions at the 
temples, one of which has the 
date Shaka 790 = 868 a.d. 


j Lakkandi (anciently Lokkikandi) 
j is about 8 m. S.E. of Gadag, and 
about half that distance from 
Harlapur station. The place is 
full of ancient temples. 

The fa9ade of the Kashi Vishwa- 
nath Temple has been supported 
by four pillars, of which that 
to the N. has gone. The door- 
ways are elaborately carved, and 
though the roof is ruined, the 
temple is by far the handsomest 
m Lakkandi, and well worth 
seeing ; but, being built of coarse 
granite, the carving is not so 
clear and sharply defined as in 
the case of other famous temples. 

To the W., on the opposite side 
of the road, is a Temple to Kandes- 
war, or “ Siva, Lord of the Bull 
Nandi." There is a Kanarese 
inscription on the ledge of the W. 
division of the roof, between the 
four pillars. It stands on the N. 
side of a tank, which it overlooks. 

The Temple of Isuiara, the roof 
of which has fallen in, is very old ; 
the exterior is handsomely carved, 
and is said to be the work of 
Jakanacharya, the great sculptor 
(P- 531)- 

A narrow path, thickly shaded 
for about 100 yds., leads from it 

1 Colonel M. Taylor says : It is im- 

possible to describe the exquisite finish of 
the pillars of the interior of this temple, 
which are of black hornblende, or to cstj- 
mate how they were completed in their 
present condition, unless they were turned 
in a lathe ; yet there can be little doubt that 
taey we^-e set up originally as rough masses 
of rock, and afterwards carved into their 
present forms. The carving on some of the 
pillars and of the lintels and architraves of 
the doors is quite beyond description. No 
chased work in silver or gold could possibly 
be fin-r, and the patterns to this day are 
copied by goldsmiths, who take casts and 
moulds from them, but i<.il in representing 
the sharpness and finish of the original.'' 



504 


ROUTE 2S. HOTGI JUNCTION TO BIT A PUR : DHARWAR India 


to a Baoli, or well, the sides of ! 
which are faced with stone. There 
are flights of steps to the water on 
three sides, and on either side of 
the first step is an elephant, so 
well carved that the natives may 
be beheved when they say that 
it is the work of Jakanacharya. 

About 200 yds. from this, on the 
W. side of the tower, is a T emple to 
Manikeswar, a name of Krishna, 
so called because every day he 
gave to Radha a ruby, which is 
called a manik. A very pretty 
small tank adjoins the temple. 

It is faced with stone, and has 
several buttresses projecting into 
the water, said to be carved by 
Jakanacharya. On either side of 
the entrance into the temple are 
four pillars of black basalt. This 
temple is surrounded by beautiful 
trees of great size. 

From Gadag the line turns \V. to 

206 m. HubU junction station 
(R.) (line S.E. to Harihar and 
Bangalore, Route 31). Popula- 
tion 61,440. Important junction, 
and the chief centre of the cotton 
trade in the Southern Mahratta 
country. Contains the workshops 
for the metre-gauge rolling stock 
of the M. and S.M. Railway system. 
Has a spinning and weaving mill 
and numerous cotton gins and 
presses. 

219 m. Dharwar station (R., 
D.B.). This is a very important 
centre, being the old headquarters 
of the Southern Mahratta Railway. 
Dharwar is a large open town on 
the watershed, but 20 m inland 
from the edge of the ghats, with 
a population of 30,289. Head- 
quarters of the District of Dharwar, 
residence of the Collector, District 
Judge, and other officers. The 
S.M. Railway headquarters were 
removed to Madras in 1908 on 
amalgamation with the Madras 
Railway ; but the Chief Engineer 
of the metre-gauge line. District 


Traffic Manager, and other officers, 
still reside at Dharwar. The largest 
building, so conspicuous from the 
train, holds the railway offices. 
The District Jail is noticeable 
as being now largely given over for 
a juvenile jail on the Borstal 
system, the first of its kind in W. 
India. 

On the N. is the Fort, which was 
taken from the Mahrattas b> 
Hyder 'Ali in 1778, and stood a 
siege in 1789 from a British force 
co-operating with the Mahratta 
army under Parshuram Bhao. It 
next belonged to Tipu ; and one 
of his ablest Generals, Badr-uT 
zaman, with 7000 regulars and 
3000 irregulars, having thrown 
himself into it, defended it with 
great spirit. After a protracted 
siege of twenty-nine weeks the 
brave Badr-ul-zaman surrendered 
on condition of being allowed to 
march out with all the honours of 
war. The allies took possession 
of the fort on 4th April, and 
the Mahrattas attacked Badr-ul- 
zaman as he was marching away, 
wounded him, made him prisoner, 
and dispersed the forces. Little 
remains of the fort, which is 
occupied by the Civil Hospital 
and a number of bungalows and 
smaller houses. 

The Eytglish Church is ^ m- W. 
of the D.B., and was built in 
1886. There is a Resident Chap- 
lain on the Bombay establish- 
ment, who also has charge of 
Hubli, Gadag, Bijapur and Castle 
Rock. There is also a Roman 
Catholic Church, built in 1845. 
The last detachment of regular 
troops was removed in 1884, and 
the site of the old Cantonment is 
occupied by police lines. 

The Karnatdk (Carnatic) Col- 
lege, one of the local colleges affili- 
ated to the Bombay University, 
was opened at Dharwar in the 
summer of 1917. At present, part 
of the Training College buildings is 
lent for its use,' but a site has been 
selected for the future buildings on 
the hills to the S.W. of the town 



ROUTE 29. WADI JUNCTION TO BEZWADA : BIDAR 


5^5 


Bebideb tins college there are the 
Training Colleges for Teachers of 
both sexes, and a High School. 

Sixty yds. from the D.B. is an 
obelisk to the memory of Mr St 
John Thackeray, Principal Col- 
lector and Pohtical Agent, 
Southern Mahratta Doab, killed in 
the insurrection at Kittur, 23rd 
October 1824 ; of J. C. 
Munro, Sub -Collector, who died of 
wounds received at the reduction 
of that place. Mr Thackeray was 
an uncle of the novelist. 

Nargiind, headquarters of the 
Petha of that name, is not easily 
accessible, but its compact hill- 
fort rising straight out of the plain 
is a conspicuous object on clear 
days from Dharwar and from the 
Gadag-Hotgi Railway. It was 
one of the strongest forts in the 
Karnatak. During the mutin\' 
the Chief of Nargund, Bhaskarrao 
Appasaheb alias Baba Saheb — 
rose and in the last week of May j 
1858 murdered Col. Manson, Poll- j 
tical Agent of the Southern Mali- | 
ratta country, by night at a village 
N. of Nargund and had his head 
affixed to the gate of the town 
The fort was afterwards stormed 
by British troops, the Chief taken 
and executed, and his State an- 
nexed. The head of Col. Manson 
was buried in Nargund, but was 
afterwards exhumed and buried in 
Bombay cemetery', a cenotaph 
only remaining in the town ’of 
Nargund. After ceasing to be of 
military value Nargund Fort be- 
came a favourite haunt of pan- 
thers 

The line continues W. to 

278 m. from Poona, Londa 
junction (p. 486). 


ROUTE 29. 

WADI JUNCTION to HYDERABAD, 
Secunderabad, Warangal, and 
Bezwada, with expedition to 
Bidar. 

H H the Nizam’s State Railway 

376 m. from Bombay, Wadi 
I junction station (R.) (seep. 476). 

I o m . Cbittapur station . — Exten- 
sive silk manufactures. About 
I m. to the S, is Nagai, a deserted 
town, with ruined temples dating 
from 1050 A.D. In one of them 
is a life-size bull cut out of a solid 
block of basalt. 

24 m. Seram station. — A richly- 
carved temple, of 1200 ad. 

44 m. Tandur station (R.). — 
Small and large game. 

57 m. Dharur station for Bidar, 
40 m. distant. ^ — Railway bunga- 
low, which can be occupied by 
permission from Hyderabad. 

Bidar, Vidarba. This capital, 
first of the later Bahmani Kings 
and then of the separate Barid 
dynasty, which maintained itself 
tor only fifty years, is well deserv- 
ing of a visit on account of the 
extremely picturesque wails and 
defences which still surround it, 
the fine, though partially ruined. 
College of Khwaja Mahmud 
I Gawan,^ resembling those of 
Samarkand and Bukhara, and 
the tombs of the Bahmani and 
Barid King§, including that of 
' Humayan the Cruel, known as the 
, Khuni Sultan. Arrangements for 
; the journey must be made from 
Hyderabad, and it will be desir- 

! 1 The date is 1471 a.d. This Minister, 

j who long upheld the dynasty was unjustly 
! put to death by Muhammad ^hah U 



506 route 29. WADI JUNCTION 

able to obtain an introduction to 
the local State officials. Though 
Bidar is the headquarters of the 
fourth Suba of the State, the 
Subadar usually resides in Hydera- 
bad., Bidar Btdri work, so named 
from it, of silver inlaid on iron, 
was once famous, but is now 
inferior to that of Lucknow. 

100 m. langampalli station. 
Soon after this the line is very 
picturesque, dotted with numerous 
granite peaks and isolated rocks. 
This stone belt extends to Bhon- 
gir, 28 m. E. of Hyderabad. 

1 15 m. HYDERABAD station ^ 
ij m. from the nearest city gate. 
— The capital of H.H. the Nizam's 
territory (lat. 17“^ 22' N., long. 
yS'’ 30' E.). The city (population, 
with suburbs, 500,623) stands on 
the S. bank of the Musi River, with 
Golconda to W., and the Residency 
and its bazars and the Canton- 
ments of the British troops and 
the Contingent to the N. 

The State of which Hyderabad 
is the capital covers 82,000 sq. m., 
with a population of 11,141,142, 
and is by far the largest in India 
The present ruler is Hon. Lieu- 
tenant General His Highness Asaf 
Jah Muzaffar-ul-Mulk, Nizam-ul- 
Mulk, Nizam-ud-Daula, Nawab Sir 
Mir U sman Ali Khan Bahadur, 
Fateh Jang, G C.S.I ^ 

There have been ten ^ Nizams 
since the dynasty was founded in 
1740 A D. by Asaf Jah Nizam-ul- 
Mulk (Subadar or Viceroy of the 
Deccan from 1713 onwards), four 
in the 17th century, all sons of 
the first Nizam, and five in the 
19th ; the present ruler suc- 
ceeded in 1911 The sons of Asaf 
Jah played a very prominent part 
in matters connected with the 
growth of the power of the East 
India Company in S. India. The 

I The principal Nizanis ha\e tjeen Nasir 
Jang, Salabat Jang, Nizam Ali (d. 1803). 
Sikandar Jah (d. 1829), and Nasir-ud-daula 
(d. i 337)' Aiafjah was the son uf the first 
Ghazi-ud-din {p 264), Subadar of Berar, and 
th« real conqueror of Bijapur : he died at the 
age of 104. and is buried at Rauza (p. loa). 


TO BEZWADA : HYDERABAD India 

City is famed for its warlike 
and varied population. Formerly 
the inhabitants always carried 
weapons. The practice is now 
confined to the old Arab mercen- 
aries, who may be seen disporting 
themselves in the streets with a 
perfect armoury of weapons stuck 
in their waistcloths. 

The place maintains a consider- 
able manufacture of textile fabrics, 
carpets, velvets for horse-trap- 
pings, and a material composed 
of cotton and silk. Red earthen- 
ware is also extensively' made here. 

To the N. of the railw'ay station 
are the beautiful Public Gardeyis, 
covering an extensive area, and 
surrounded by a high wall castel- 
lated with two lofty gateways 
In addition to rare plants and 
well-laid-out beds of flowers, the 
Gardens contain a large lake, a 
menagerie, lawn - tennis courts, a 
bandstand, and an iron pavilion. 
In the N. corner a Town Hall 
has b-en planned, which will 
commemorate the anniversary 
of the fortieth birthday of His 
Highness the Nizam. 

Outside the gardens to the N. 
is a picturesque Black Rock — ^the 
^aubat Pahar or “ Band Rock " — 
so called from the fact that in 
olden times all official communica- 
tions of the Mughal Emperors 
with Nizams were proclaimed from 
this rock to the sound of music. 
N of the gardens is the Saifabad 
Cantonment of the Nizam's regular 
troops, and S. are the lines of the 
Imperial Service Troops. S.E. 
lies the Fateh Maidan, a plain 
which is the Nizam's polo-ground. 

The Residency stands about 
I J m. S.W. of the railway station, 
and N.E. of the city, in a suburb 
called Chadarghat, and is sur- 
rounded by a bazar containing 
12,000 inhabitants. The grounds 
are extensive and full of grand 
old trees, and are enclosed by a 
wall, which was strengthened by 
Colonel Davidson after the attack 






508 route 29. WADI JUNCTION 

upon the Residency on the morn- 
ing of 17th July 1857. That 
attack was made by a band of 
Rohillas and others, and was 
repulsed by the troops at the 
Residency under Major Briggs, 
Military Secretary, The bastions 
commanding the approaches were 
erected then. 

On the site of the Residency 
there was formerly a villa belong- 
ing to a favourite of Nizam ’Ah, 
and in it Sir John Kennaway, who 
was appointed Resident in 1788, 
was received. The present Resi- 
dency was built 1803-8. The N. 
front, with the Grand Entrance, 
looks away from the Musi River 
and the city. Among the trees 
are four enormous specimens of 
the Ficus indica, the trunk of one 
measuring 30 ft. round. There is 
also a very gigantic tamarind -tree. 
The park contains an obelisk 
raised to the memory of Lieuten- 
ant William John Darby, who was 
killed in 1815 within the city of 
Hyderabad, while gallantly lead- 
ing the Grenadiers in a charge 
against some rebels. 

Within the Residency limits is 
the Pestonji Kothi, a large building 
erected on a high stone basement 
by the famous Parsi bankers, 
Pestonji & Co., who farmed the 
revenues of Berar rfrom 1839-45. 
Close to the Kothi is the St 
George’s Church, adjoining which 
is the old burial-ground, now 
abandoned. The most remarkable 
tomb in it is that of William 
Palmer, who was styled “ King ” 
Palmer, and was the head of the 
banking firm bearing his name. 
Farther N, on the same side of 
the road is the Roman Catholic 
Chapel, a two-storeyed building 
standing on the summit of a hill 
and commanding an extensive 
view. Near the chapel is one of 
the old French gun - foundries 
erected by M. Raymond. 

The City is in shape a trapezoid. 
The total area is 2 sq. m, ; it 
is modem, and has but few re- 
markable buildings, but the bazars 


TO BEZWADA: HYDERABAD Uuha 

are extremely picturesque and 
thronged with natives from all 
parts of India. On the N.W. side 
are five Gateways — viz., on the 
extreme E. the Chadarghat Gate ; 
next, to the W., the Delhi or 
Afzalganj Gate ; next, in the 
same direction, are the Champa, 
the Char Mahal, and the Old 
Bridge Gates in succession In 
the S.W. side there is, first, the 
Dudhni Gate, then the Fateh, 
which is exactly in the centre, and 
then the 'Aliabad, in the S.W. 
corner. In the S. side are the 
Gaulipura and the Ghazibanda ; 
and on the E. side are the Mir 
Jumla, the Y’akutpura, and the 
Dabirpura Gates. 

The Musi River, on the N. 
side, 13 crossed by four Bridges 
Farthest to the E. is the Oliphant 
Bridge, which was erected in 1831 
by Colonel Oliphant, of the Madras 
Engineers. The next bridge to 
the W. is the Afzalganj Bridge, 
and then comes the Old and the 
Musallam Bridge. N. of the 
second bridge are the Residency 
School and the City Hospital. The 
Afzalganj Masjid (Mosque), which 
adjoins the hospital to the N., is 
a fine building with four loftj" 
minarets. On the other side of 
the road is a par da hospital for 
women, the foundation-stone ot 
which was laid by H.M. Queen 
Mary then Princess of Wales on 
9th February 1906. The establish- 
ment can be inspected by ladies 
only. The Musaliam Bridge, built 
in 1898 A.D. 'by the late Nawab 
Laik-ud-daula, and the Old Bridge 
were the only ones which withstood 
the terrible flood of 1908. This 
flood caused the loss of over 3000 
lives and the destruction of 24,000 
houses. 

Inside the Afzalganj Gate is a 
broad street, which runs right 
through the city. A few hundred 
yards on the left is the Palace oj 
the late Sir Salar Jang, G.C.S.I., 
whose able administration of the 
State from 1853 to 1883 is a 
matter of history The great 



ROUTE 29. 


HYDERABAD 


drawing-room contains a number 
of portraits of former Residents 
and other distinguished person- 
ages. Close to it is the Chini 
Khana, about 14 ft. square and 
12 ft. high, covered with china 
cemented to the walls. A little 
beyond the Palace, to the N. of it, 
is the 'Ashur Khana, which is well 
worth a visit. The original part 
of the building, which consists of 
a hall, was built by Muhammad 
Kuli Kutb Shah in 1597. The 
walls are adorned with Persian 
enamels, which arc extremely rich 
in colour and compare favourably 
with the best work at Multan and 
Lahore. Farther along the cen- 
tral street is a rectangular build- 
ing with four minarets, hence 
called the Chav Mxnav, 1S6 ft. high 
and 1 00 ft. wide on each side, 
built in 1591 ; it occupies the cen- 
tral position in the city where the 
four main roads meet. Just be- 
fore reaching it the road passes 
under an arch called the Machhi 
haman, or “ Arch of the Fish,” 
the fish being a badge of high rank 
lliere are four arches 50 ft. high 
across the streets, one to each 
quarter of the compass. A Uttle 
to the E. of the Char Minar is the 
^lecca (Makka) Jilaspd, the princi- 
pal mosque in the city ; the gate- 
way was completed by Aurangzeb 
in 1692. It IS a grand but sombre 
building, with four minars and five 
arches in front, occupying one side 
of the paved quadrangle 360 ft 
square — date, 1614 a.d. In the 
quadrangle are the graves of all 
the Nizams since the first. Close 
to the Char Minar, and to the 
left of the main road, a narrow ' 
lane leads to the Jami Masjid, \ 
erected in 1598 a.d. by Sultan | 
Muhammad Kuh. The mosque is i 
without architectural pretensions, | 
but is the oldest in Hyderabad. 

The Nizam’s Chaumahala Palace : 
hes to the S. of the Char Minar, , 
m. from the Residency ; from ; 
the Chauk a fine gateway leads ' 
to a large quadrangle. At the ' 


50^ 

S.W . corner of this a nariow road 
leads into a second quadrangle, in 
which are generally a great number 
of horsemen, etc. ; a passage from 
the S.W. corner of this leads into 
a third quadrangle, where many 
attendants are also generally to 
be found. The buildings on each 
side are liandsome, and resemble 
the Shah’s Palace at Teheran, but 
are finer. 

During the Aiuharram H H.’s 
troops, to the number of 30,000, 
pass in procession in front of the 
palace, and the spectacle is alto- 
gether a very magnificent one. 
The procession takes place on the 
5th of Muharram : it is called the 
Langar and is said to be in honour 
of Muhammad Kuli Shah, the 
sovereign who built the Char 
Alinar and the Mecca Masjid. 
Various stories are told about 
this procession It is said that 
Langar (a chain) means the chain 
wnth which an elephant is confined, 
and that ^Muhammad Kuh Shah 
w’as run away with by an elephant, 
which suddenly became furious 
and rushed about for three days, 
keeping the king without food 
and in peril of his life. On the 
third day it became tractable, 
and the Langar was fastened on 
it. In a side street 200 yds. 
beyond the Palace is the house in 
which the w^ell-known Minister 
Chandu Lai died. It is a low but 
highly-ornamented Hindu house. 

Near the W. wall of the city is 
the vast palace of the Barahdari, 
vrhich w^as built by the Shams-ul- 
umara. It covers a large space, 

IS handsomely furnished, and 
contains a gigantic suit of armour 
and sw^ord belonging to Tegh 
Jang, the founder of the family, 
whose stature is said to have been 
6 ft. 6 in. 

The Jahannuma, also built by 
the Shams-ul-umara, in a suburb 
of the same name outside the 
Aliabad Gate, is reached by a 
causew^ay built across rice-fields. 
Adjoining it is a very long 
approach, consisting of neatly- 



510 ROUTE 29 . WADI JUNCTION 

built houses, forming two narrow 
ellipses. 

To the S! of the city, standing 
on a hill, is the F alaknuma Palace 
of His Highness the Nizam, which 
is considered the finest in India. 
It was built as a private residence 
by the late Minister, Sir Vikar-ul- 
umara, but was afterwards pur- 
chased by the Nizam for the sum 
of 35 lakhs. The approach to the 
Palace is by a beautifully-con- 
structed hill road, at the end of 
which is a fine gateway. The 
Palace stands on a terrace, the 
front part of which is artistically 
laid out in flower beds in the 
Enghsh style. The fa^de is 
Grecian, the cornice resting on a 
double row qf Corinthian columns. 
The handsome vestibule, the walls 
of which are beautifully painted, 
is fitted with marble seats sur- 
rounding a marble fountain. The 
vestibule leads into the waiting- 
room, adjoining which are the 
Library and Council Chamber. 
The staircase to the upper floor 
IS of marble, with beautifully- 
carved balustrades, supporting at 
intervals marble figures with 
candelabra. On the walls are oil 
paintings of His Highness the 
Nizam and the past Residents 
and other notable personages of 
the State. The Reception-room 
is decorated and furnished in 
Louis XIV. style. The Ballroom, 
the Dining-room, the Smoking- 
room, and bedrooms are all artis- 
tically furnished. From the upper 
floor a fine view can be obtained 
of the city, the iVlir "Alam Tank, 
and the surrounding country. 
Since it came into the possession 
of His Highness the Palace has 
been provided with electric instal- 
lation, and a wing has been built, 
unfortunately in a style out of 
harmony with the original design, 
as a Museum of Indian Industries. 
Passes to visit the Falaknuma 
Palace are not obtainable through 
the Residency at Hyderabad. 

2 m. W. of the city Palace is the 
Mir *Alam Tank, a lake 8 m. 


TO bezwada : HYDERABAD India 

round. The embankment is 
formed of twenty-one arches, side 
by side, presenting their convex 
surfaces to the pressure of the 
water. It is 1120 yds. long, and 
was built by French engineers at 
a cost of ;£8o,ooo. It was com- 
menced by Mtr *Alam, the great 
Minister of the Nizam, who led 
his master's forces during the war 
with Tipu Sultan in i799» 
prize - money which fell to his 
share after the fall of Seringa- 
patam being used for the con- 
struction- The embankment was, 
however, completed in 1811 by 
his son - in - law, Munir - ul - Mu Ik 
(1809-32), the father of Sir Salar 
Jang I, The Mir ’Alam Lake is 
now used as a reservoir for supply- 
ing a large portion of the city with 
water. Filter-beds have been con- 
structed in proximity to the em- 
bankment, from which water is 
led by gravitation. A number of 
steam-launches are maintained on 
the lake, and water - parties arc 
given to distinguished visitors. 
At the extreme W. end of the lake, 
which has picturesque coves and 
windings, is a wooded hill about 
80 ft. high, surmounted by a 
building which is the Dargah, or 
shrine, of Mir Mahmud. This is 
a beautiful structure and well 
placed, looking down on the waters 
of the lake that ripple at the foot 
of the clifl on which it stands It 
is small but symmetrical, and was 
once covered with blue tiles. 

Excursions from Hyderabad. 

(l) The Tomh of M. Eaymond. 
This lies in Sarav * Nagar (Cypress 
Town), 3 m. from the Oliphant 
Bridge to the S.E. of the city, and 
stands on very high ground. The 
tomb consists of an obelisk of grey 
stone, 25 ft. high, with simply the 
letters on each side, placed 

on a spacious platform. At the 
end of the platform is an edifice 

^ Some call it Sarur Nagar (Pleasure 
Town). 


ROUTE 29. GOLCONDA 


like a Grecian temple. Xo date 
is recorded ; but the gallant 
Frenchman in whose honour this 
fine structure has been erected 
died in March 1798. At fhe time 
of his death he had 15,000 well- 
disciplined troops at his command, 
and possessed more power than 
the British Resident 


(2) GOLCONDA. The Fort and 
Tombs he 5 m. W. of the city, 
lat. 17° 22' N. : long. 78° 26' 30'' 
E. Golconda was the capital of 
the Kutb Shahi kingdom,^ the 
third great Muhammadan d3masty 
of the Deccan, which lasted from 
1507 to 16S7, till overthrown by 
the Emperor Aurangzeb. For 
permission to visit the fort applica- 
tion must be made in writing at 
least two da\’s before the proposed 
visit to the Second Assistant Resi- 
dent at Hyderabad. Unless at 
least two days* notice is given, no 
pass will be issued on any account. 
The Fort is surrounded by a 
strongly-built crenellated stone 
wall or curtain, a little over 3 m. in 
circumference, with eight\’’-seven 
bastions at the angles, on which 
there are still some of the old Kutb 
Shahi guns. The walls and bas- 
tions are built of solid blocks of 
granite, many of which weigh con- 
siderably over a ton. The moat 
which surrounds the outer wall is 
filled up in many places. The fort 
originally had eight gates, but of 
these two only are now in use — 
namely, the Banjara and Fateh (by 
it Prince Muazzam entered, lead- 
ing his troops) the Mecca and 
Jamali. It was besieged b^^ Aur- 
angzeb, while Viceroy of the 
Deccan, in treacherous concert 
with the Minister Mir Jumla, and 
was taken by him, as Emperor, 
after a desperate defence of eight 
nionths by the last King, Abul 

^ This kingdom included all the country 
from Golconda in the west to the east sea- 
coast from Orissa to the Krishna. For a 
^tailed account of it, see Major Haig’s 
f^istortc Landmarks o/ths Dtccan. 


511 

j Hasan, Abdur Razzak Khan Lari 
being the hero of the siege When 
; the first of the Kizams took posses- 
I sion of the place he added a new 
wall to the fortifications on the 
E., so as to include a small hill 
formerly situated outside the 
fort. The large sheet of water in 
front of this portion of the fort 
is st\*led the Langar Talao. 

The Banjara Gate is a massive 
structure of granite, some 50 ft. 
high, with platforms and cham- 
bers on either side for the guards, 
and a pair of high teakwood gates 
studded with iron wrought into 
various fanciful devices and huge 
sharp-pointed iron spikes, which 
were intended to prevent elephants 
from battering them in. The road 
from here passes straight through 
the fort to the gate on the 
N.W. side. A short distance from 
the gate is a large stone cistern 
said to have been built by Ibrahim 
Kutb Shah, which is connected 
with a tank some distance off b^^ a 
line of underground pipes. The 
old buildings inside the Fort are 
more or less in a ruined condition 
and it is difficult to identify many 
of them. The Nau Mahal is com- 
parativel\’ a modern structure 
built b\’ the earh^ kings of the 
Asafya djmasty. It is surrounded 
b^” a high wall and stands in the 
midst of a pleasant garden of 
orange and other fruit trees. 

Beyond the Nau ^lahal there is 
a lofty granite structure, said to 
have been used as a Nakkar Khana 
(Music Gallery), which forms the 
entrance to the first line of the 
Bala Hissar or citadel fortification. 
A little to the right of this is the 
Jami Masjid, a small building, 
the roof of which is supported on 
five row^s of arches about 12 ft. 
high. An Arabic inscription over 
the gatew'a}^ states that it was 
erected by Ibrahim Kutb Shah in 
1569. The Bala Hissar is on the 
summit of the hill enclosed by 
several tiers of fortifications. 
Passing through the gatew^ay on 
the left side are the remains of the 



512 


India 


ROUTE 29. WADI JUNCTION TO BEZWADA 


Sila-Kliciua (Arms House) and the j 
Zenana palaces. The ascent to j 
the summit is accomplished by a i 
series of roughly paved steps. 
Half-way up is a large well from 
which the garrison used to get its 
water-supply. A short distance 
from here are the ruins of the 
Ambar Khana, or King's Stores. 

A slab of black basalt, which has 
fallen from its position over the 
entrance, contains a Persian inscrip- 
tion to the efiect that the Ambar 
Khana was built during the reign 
of Abdullah Kutb Shah. The N. 
portion of the ground enclosed by 
the wall has very few rums upon 
it, although it was at one time most 
thickly populated ; indeed, the 
ground inside the walls is said to 
have been so valuable that it used 
to sell for one ashrafi (Rs 20) per 
yard. The E. and S. portions 
are strewn with the ruins of 
palaces, mosques, and the dwell- 
ing-houses of the nobles and 
retainers of the Kutb Shahi 
Kings. Inside the Fateh Gate are 
two buildings constructed by the 
French as arsenals. Farther on 
are the Kiladar’s (Commandant’s) | 
House and the Mubariz-ud-daula | 
Palace, and to the S. of these two 
large enclosures with underground 
galleries, which probably served as 
magazines. In front of the cita- 
del, which rises finely some 350 ft, 
above the rest of the fort, is a 
triumphal arch. The paved path 
leads up through various gate- 
ways, and under many picturesque 
half-ruined defences, to the summit 
of the citadel, on which are the re- 
mains of a lofty palace, the two- 
storeyed Barahdari, affording a 
splendid view of all the country 
round ; on the roof is a stone 
throne. The upper storey has a 
spacious hall with side rooms and 
a large courtyard in front. 

The Kings’ Tombs. About 600 
yds. to the N.W. of the fort stand 
on the plain the tombs of the Kutb 
Shahi Kings, who reigned for 180 


I years in Golconda. They arc 
! reached from the fort and citadel 
: by turning N. from the entrance 
to the latter and passing a fine 
stone tknk to the N.W. comer 
I of the former. The tombs were 
much neglected until they were 
repaired at the instance of the late 
Sir Salar Jang, when the gardens 
which had formerly existed around 
some of them were also re- 
planted and the whole enclosed 
by a substantial stone wall : 

I pleasant walks \\ ith fine shade 
' and fruit trees to each tomb 
were laid out. The tombs stand- 
ing within the garden enclosures 
are those of : 

(1) Sultan Kuli Kutb Shah, 

1512-43- 

(2) Jamshaid Kutb Shah, i 543 ” 

50 - 

(3) Ibrahim Kutb Shah, 1550- 

80. 

(4) Princess Hay at Bakhsh Be- 

gam, daughter of (3), 

-1617. 

(5) Muhammad Kuh Kutb Shall 

1580-1612. 

(6) Muhammad Kutb Shah, 

1612-26. 

Beside these the gardens enclose a 
large number of minor tombs and 
mosques. The tombs of the last 
two kings of the dynasty {1507- 
1687) are situated outside the 
enclosure Muhammad KuU Kutb 
Shah, who died in 1020 a.h,=: 1612 
A.D., was the king who founded the 
city of Hyderabad, and erected 
many public edifices and Palaces, 
and his is the finest of the tombs, 
being 168 ft. high from the base- 
ment to the summit of the dome. 
Beyond this is the tomb of Ibrahim 
Kuli Kutb Shah, the fourth King, 
who died in 988 a.h. = i58o a.d. 
To the S, of it is the tomb of Sultan 
Muhammad Amin, King Ibrahim’s 
youngest son, who died in 1004 
A.H. = 1595 a.d. A short distance 
from here in a N. direction is the 
tomb of Kulsum Begam, and close 
to it is that of the first of the Kutb 
Shahi Kings, Sultan Kuli Kutb, 



ROUTE 29. 


GOLCONT>\ 


513 


who' died in 950 A.H. — 1543 
Between the walled enclosure and 
the fort walls is the tomb of the 
sixth Kin^, Abdulla Kutb Shah, 
who died in 1083 a.h. = i672 a.d., 
after a reign of forty-eight years. 
This is one of the finest tombs 
here, being enriched with very 
fine carvings and minarets at eacli 
corner of the platform. 

The last of the Kutb Shahi 
Kmgs, Abul Hasan, who was sent 
off by his imperial captor to end 
his days in the fortress of Daulata- 
bad, and died there in 1701, is the 
only one not interred here 

The following quotation irorii a 
description of the tombs written 
by Captain Burton gives an ad- 
mirable idea of their architectural 
and other details. “ The prevail- 
ing stj’le of the Golconda tomb is a 
dome standing upon an oblong or 
square, both of grey granite , the 
shape of the cupola is various, 
from the orange or rather the onion 
strangulata at the base, which is 
invariably arabesqued to the seg- 
ment of a circle either straight 
with or bulging beyond the square ; 
the finials are of silver, not of gold 
as in the modern city (Hyderabad) 
The parallelogram, single-storeyed 
m the smaller and doubled in the 
longer mausolea, is either plain 
above or capped with floriated 
crenelles like spear-heads. Many 
bear balustraded balconies of the 
most complicated patterns. The I 
lower portion is invariably an 
arcade of pointed arches resting 
upon a raised quadrangular terrace 
of cut stone, which is ascended by 
four flights of steps. The prevail- 
ing colour is wKite, in some cases 
picked out with green. Each 
large tomb has its mosque or ■ 
musalla (chapel), usually a hall or 
a hall-porch opening eastward, 
with a mihrah to the west, and 
flanked by minarets on either side. 
These towers are also of one gen- , 
eral type : the cap is a bulb and i 
neck, somewhat like the mosque 
dome in miniature ; the body is a j 
'^haft, either circular or polygonal, : 


with a floriated gallery, single or 
double ; whilst the foot is a pillar 
of larger dimensions than that 
above. The minarets are either 
I engaged or unattached, and the 
I general effect is top-heaviness, 
j Many also are toy articles evidently 
I never meant for use. 

! ‘ ' The interiors of the sepulchres 

! are arbitrarily laid out with in- 
teresting arches in infinite variet\' ; 
i and not a few of them deserve photo- 
i graphing. Flights of stairs lead 
I up to the unbalconied galleries 
above, and down to the graves 
I contained in the arches and 
alcoved basements. In the midst 
lies the occupant under a tomb of 
j black marble or greenstone, the 
fine produce of the Krishna River 
i quarries The shape is oblong and 
i stepped with six or eight slabs 
' diminishing above. The top is 
I either homb^ or flat, in winch case 
I it is ornamented with a mimic 
I mihrah (prayer arch), and the sides 
' bear mortuary and devotional in- 
' scriptions in Naskh and Nasta 
j 'alik characters. From the four 
comers of the slab resting upon 
. the base spring feet not unlike 
; the claws of an old-fashioned sugar 
pot ; and one or more of the steps 
. bear lines of the horns which dis- 
tinguish the altars of classical 
Greece and Rome." ^ 

The return to Hyderabad may 
be made by the N. road, passing 
at I m. to the N.W. the Barahdari 
and Masjid of Bhagmati (after 
whom Hyderabad was first called 
Bhagnagar), a favourite mistress 
of the Kutb Shahi King, Muham- 
mad Kuli. On all sides rise 
masses of granite, gneiss, and 
low lulls, taking from weather 
wear the most iantastic shapes, 
and sometimes appearing like 
subsidiary forts erected by the 
hand of man. The popular legend 


1 For a full description of these tombs ^ee 
Historic Landmarks o/ the Deccan, by 
Haig, and Historical and Descriptive 
Sketch 0/ H H. the Nizam's Dominions^ 
by Sayid Husain llilgrami. 



514 ROUTE 29. WADI JUNCTION TO 

as regards the pecuharity of their 
position and appearance is that 
the Creator after finishing the 
construction of the world threw 
away the surplus material here. 

The diamonds of Golconda, 
which have become proverbial, 
were cut and polished here, but 
came principally from PitrtiaL on 
the S.E. frontier of the Nizam's 
territory, and Kollur, in the 
Krishna District. 


I2I m. Secunderabad junction, ^ 
5|- m. N. of the Hyderabad Resi- 
dency, is the British military 
Cantonment, and one of the 
largest in India, covering 19 sq m. 
It is the headquarters of the 9th 
Army Division. It stands 1830 ft. 
above sea-level. Two main roads 
lead from Hyderabad to Secun- 
derabad. The old road runs along 
the bend of the Husain Sugar, 
2 m. N. of the railway station, a 
fine lake about ii m. in circum- 
ference, constructed by Ibrahim 
Kutb Shah (i6th century) at a 
cost of 2^ lakhs. The principal 
feeder is a channel 36 m, long, 
which runs from the Musi River 
above Hyderabad. The lake 
forms the main water supply of 
Hyderabad, Chadarghat, and Resi- 
dency limits. The water is 
pumped into filter - beds, from 
which it IS distributed by means 
of iron pipes. The scenery on 
both sides of the bend is highly 
picturesque, and on a clear evening 
just before sunset a magnificent 
view may be obtained of Golconda 
and the far country in the W, At 
the Secunderabad end of the lake 
is a Boat Club, where pleasure- 
boats, both rowing and sailing, 
may be obtained. A regatta is 
held annually by the Club. 

On the S. bank of the tank 
stands a large and extensive 
modern building surrounded by 
high walls, and known as the 
Saifabad Palace, Built originally 
as a suburban residence of the 
Nizam, it is now used for certain 


BEZWADA : --iECUNDEKABAD lu'lvt 

public offices, the chief of w'hich are 
the financial and the pubhc works 
and raihvays. The Palace opens 
on the Saifabad Road by an elabor- 
ate and imposing iron gateway. 

The other road, running along 
the W. bank of the Husain 
Sagar Lake, is of somewhat latti 
construction. It passes through 
the new" and growing suburb of 
Khairatabad,and leaving the Bidar 
Road just past the unfinished resi- 
dence of the Naw^ab Fakhr-ul-mulk 
on a hill to the left, skirts the E. 
bank of the lake, rising to a height 
of over 20 ft. above the water. 
Some fine private residences dot 
the road on both sides. About a 
mile from Khairatabad the road 
crosses^ the Hyderabad Wadi line 
of raihvay just above the Husain 
Sagar junction. Here new 
station called Begampet has been 
constructed lor the convenience 
of military officers stationed 
at Bolarum, Trimalgiri, and Be- 
gampet. Passing over two Warren 
girder bridges, the road descends 
nearly to the level of the lake, 
rising again as it approaches 
Secunderabad. The Begampet 
lines, w"here an Indian Infantry 
regiment is stationed, lie to the 
left, and on the right a huge block 
of buildings, surrounded by a wall, 
marks the palace of the former 
Minister, Sir Vikar - ul - umara 
Here the road joins the Secun- 
derabad parade road. 

The Parade-ground at Secun- 
derabad is of immense extent, and 
admits of a large brigade manoeuv- 
ring upon it. On the N. side are 
many officers’ houses, the railway 
station, which is handsomely built 
of granite, and the Church, which 
is large enough to hold an European 
regiment. On the S. side of the 
parade-ground is the cemetery, in 
which a vast number of officers 
are buried. S. of the Parade- 
ground is the large two-storeyed 
building of the United Service Club, 
with its Bachelors' Quarters, 
Ladies’ Rooms, and Library. 
Close to the Club is the Mud 



ROUTE 2g, TRIMALGIRI — WARANGAL DORNAKAL 


515 


Fori, in which the staff offices 
are situated. 


At Trimalgiii, 3 m. N.E nf 
Secunderabad, is an entrenched 
camp, which would serve as a 
place of refuge. The Mtlitavy 
Prison, which stands due \V. of 
the S.W. bastion of the entrench- 
ment, is popularly called Windsor 
Castle, from its high tower and 
castellated look. The European 
Hospital is due S. of the S E. 
bastion. 


Bolarum, (> m. N. of Secundera- 
bad, and now incorporated with 
It, was the principal Cantonment 
of the Hyderabad Contingent 
Force. Under the arrangement 
made in igo2 with the Nizam 
(p. 113) this now ranks as part of 
the general Indian Army. There 
is also a Residency at Bolarum 
From Secunderabad a line runs 
up the Godavari VaUe\' to Aur- 
angabad and Manmar (Route 6). 


149 in. Bhangir (K.). 


202 m. Kazipet (K.). Kazipetis 
the station at which the head- 
quarters of the Suba are situated, 
and where a visitor proposing to 
spend the night must stay by the 
courtesy of permission obtained 
at Hyderabad- About 4 m from 
this station is Hanamconda, which 
contains a remarkably fine temple 
The Hanamconda Temple (c. 1163) 
has been ruined by an earth- 
quake, but is still well worthy 
of a visit as a fine specimen of 
the Chalukyan style of S. Indiit 
In front of the triapsidal temple 
was a splendid Hall of Columns , 
both of these are placed on high 
basements, and both contain 
numbers of elaborately -decorated 
pillars of very hard dark stone, 
with pierced screens between those 


! in the outer rows. It is dedicated 
I to Rudra, God of Thunder. (Sec 
i Fergusson’s Indian Architecture, 

\ I, 43^-) 

i A good road continues lor about 
i 10 m. more past the State Jail 
' (well worth a visit for its carpet- 
I weaving) to Warangal, the famous 
I fortress capital. The whole visit 
from Kazipet to Hanamconda, 
j and thence on to Warangal, can 
I easily be done on a bicycle or by 
; tonga, in one short day, with a 
; visit to the jail throwm m : pru- 
; \ isions must be taken. 


20S m. Warangal station. About 
‘ -1 m. from the station, visible 
thence onh^ as a long hne 
‘ of earthworks, stands the noted 
Hindu fort city of Warangal. It 
was the ancient capital of the 
! Kakatiya, or Ganpati, dynasty, 

; which w as attacked by Malik 
j Kafur m 1309 and captured by 
I Muhammad Tughlak in 1323, 

I after which the kingdom dis- 
, appeared. The most interesting 
j of the objects inside the fort are 
I the four gateways called Kirthi 
! Stambhas, which were apparently 
I openings to a square, and which 
I reproduce ivooden forms in every 
I detail, the side struts being speci- 
; ally remarkable. There is also a 
; small half-ruined temple wuth some 
I capital figures of bulls in front of 
i it. The fine hall and other build- 
I ings belong to the Muhamma- 
I dan period. A line will probablv 
’ be constructed N. from here to 
j join the G.I.P. Raihvay at Chanda 
} (p. 1 14). The present line now 
turns sharply S.E. to 


261 m Dornakal junction 
station (R.). Branch to Yellanda, 

' 14 m. Here are the Singareni 
I coal-mines of the Deccan Mining 
I Company, ^pn \vhich 8000 coolies 
j arc employed, wnth rich beds of 
i iron ore. 



ROUTE 30. G\DAG JUNCTION TO GUNTAKAL : HAMPI 


Iftdia 


51C 


328 .m. Kondapalli btation. 

Ruins of a once celebrated iortress, 
built in 1360 A.D. It was taken 
by the Emperor Aurangzeb in 
1687, and by the British, under 
General Caillaud, in 1766. 

338 m. Bezwada, or Ivrisjma, 
station (R., D.B ) (sec p. 458). 


ROUTE 30- 

GADAG JUNCTION to HOSPET (for 
Hampi and Vijayanagar), Beliary, 
and Guntakal Junction, and 
from Guntakal Junction to 

(a) Kumool {vtd Drona- 
chellam) Nandyal, Guntur, 
and Bezwada ; and 
(&) Dharmavaram and 
Bangalore. 

Gadag junction station (R., 
D.B.) (p. 503). 

53 m. Hospet station (R., D.B ). 
From this point Hampi (9. m.) and 
Vijayanagar can most conveni- 
ently be visited. The station- 
master will arrange for a country 
cart — the only local means of 
conveyance. 

Excursion to Vijayanagar 
(City of Victory) and Hampi. ^ 

Hampi is the site of the ancient 
capital of the Vijayanagar Kings, 
who dominated S. India from 
1336 to 1565 A.D., the date of the 
Battle of Talikota ; even after 
1565 they continued to rule, 
though nominally Vijayanagar 
continued to be the capital till at . 
least 1570 A.D. The ruins cover f 


9 sq. m., including Kamalapur on 
the S. and Ajiagitndt, the latter 
seat of the dynasty, N. of the 
'tungabhadra. Mr R. Sewell’s 
A Forgotten Empire deals fully 
with them. 

The Kamalapur D.B. is 7 m. 

! N.E. from Hospet ; it is an old 
temple converted into a rough 
I D.B. The Hospet - Kamalapur 
road might be better maintained 
There is a good road from KamaU- 
J pur to Hampi, which winds round 
the rocky hills between which 
I the old city was built. The site 
I IS watered by a channel from 
I the river. The distance between 
I Kamalapur and Hampi has been 
I described as '' virtually a vast 
I open-air museum of Hindu monu- 
' nients in the Dra vidian style of 
I architecture.” Outside the inner 
I fort, or citadel, there arc a iiuinbei 
I of important structures in rums. 

! within the citadel remains ol 
Palaces, pavilions, temples, and 
! many other structures still exist 
in great profusion. 

' Hampi was founded on the fall 
of the Hoysala Ballala dynasty 
iP' 525), about 1336 A.D., by two 
brothers, Bukka and Hanhara, 
who had been driven out of 
Warangal. Their descendants 
nourished here till the Battle of 
Talikota (1565), and afterwards at 
Penugonda, Vellore, Chandragin, 
and Chingleput (as some writers 
say) for ^another century, until 
hnally overwhelmed by the ad- 
vancing Muhammadan powers of 
Bijapur and Golconda. During 
the two and a quarter centuries 
that the Vijayanagar Rajas held 
the city of Hampi they^ extended 
it and beautified it with Palaces 
and temples 

The traveller Caesar Frederick, 
who saw ” Bezenagar ” soon after 
its fall, describes it as being 24 m. 
j round, enclosing several hills. 

I The ordinary dwelhngs were irean 
buildings with earthen walls, but 
the three Palaces and the pagodas 
were all built of fine marble. 

The rout of the Hindu forces at 



AKAG'trNUI 








ROUTE 30. 

i'alikota was so complete, and the 
dismay caused by the death ot 
the old King Rama Raja was 
so great, that no attempt ’was 
made to defend the city, which 
was completely gutted by the 
Muhammadan conquerors Colonel 
Briggs states that for two cen- 
turies afterwards the head of the 
Hindu Prince used to be annuall\ 
exhibited at Ahmadnagar 

The main portion of the city 
was enclosed by walls forming a 
semicircle on the S. bank of the 
river ; in the middle of this was 
the inner walled citadel and Palace 
and on the N. bank of the river 
was another large fortified area 
by the suburbs of Anagundi ; 
further outer lines of fortifications 
enclosed the city on the S. side. 

Proceeding N. for ^ m. from the 
D.B., the first remarkable building 
IS the King’s or Ladies’ Bath, 
forming a portion of the King’s 
Palace. It is a rectangular struc- 
ture, With a hatiz, or reservoir, in 
the centre, 50 ft. square and 6 ft. 
deep, in which fountains played , 
but there is no water now, and the 
whole has been a good deal injured. 
N,\V, of the entrance are remains 
of the granite aqueduct which was 
earned from near the throne to 
the bath. The corridor of the 
bath, supported by twenty pillars, 
has an arched ceihng, richly carved 
with flowers. On either side is 
a projecting gallery ornamented 
With carving. Slightly to the W. 
of the bath and aqueduct is a 
fine tank, and N. of these is the 
structure called the Arena, or the 
Sinhasan, the King’s Throne. It 
consists of a succession of granite 
platforms 31 ft. high, the outer 
walls of 'which are caiw^ed in relief 
with representations of elephants, 
dancing-girls, hunting-scenes from 
the Ramayana, and camels, well 
executed. W. of the throne is an 
underground labynnth, used prob- 
ably as a cool retreat in the 
summer, and N. of the former aat 
a remarkable stone trough and 
the ruins of a fine [bazar. jThe 


VI J A YANAGAR H AIMPI 5 T 7 

I stones forming the trough measure 
, about II ft. by 6 ft., and the 
supports are 5 ft. 8 in. high. N, 
of this again is the temple of 
; Ramachandra-swami, with pillars 
; handsomely carved in rehef with 
, figures. The quadrangle inside 
measurement is no ft from N to 
S. and 200 ft, from E. to W. The 
temple has a vestibule carried on 
twelve pillars. The adytum is 
I supported by black pillars most 
! elaborately carved. On the plinth 
of the left gateway is a very long 
inscription in Old Kanarese. The 
stones of which this temple is 
1 built average 7 ft. 7 in. long and 
2 ft. 6 in. deep. 

To the E. of this group of build- 
i ings in the SAV. corner of the 
, citadel, and across the road lead- 
ing through the citadel to the N., 
are the rums of three temples, one 
situated on the top of a small hill ; 

I while at a distance of I- m. to the 
; N E of it are situated the Zenana, 

! the Elephant Stables, and the 
j Riding School The first is an 
enclosure of walls 40 ft high, with 
' the building called the Zenana 
Palace in the X.W, corner, and 
; the pavilion, figured m Fergus- 
I son’s Indian ArcJuiechr/e (i, 417), 

I and commonly called the Council 
I Room, towards the S.E, corner 
' At various corners of the walls are 
i similar small pavilions , in the N. 

I wall IS a large tower, and in the W 
wall is a fine gateway closed over 
by projecting stones. The pa- 
vilions are too heavy to be really 
effective, but are picturesque in 
their present state of ruin ; the 
painted decoration of the upper 
, rooms of the mam pavilion is 
, .still visible. To the E. of the 
enclosure is a smaller stnhasan, 
or throne, and the fine range 
of Klephant Stables divided into 
eleven domed compartments, 
some of which were elaborately 
decorated inside. Along the 
! front of the building is a broad 
drip - stone carried by brackets. 

I The so-called Riding School or 
1 Concert Hall stands at right angles 



Tffdia 


51 S ROUTE 30, GADAG JUNCTION TO GUNTAKAL : H XMPT 


to the stables on the N, side of 5 
the Zenana ; the purpose which I 
this building really served 11? uncer- | 
tain. To the S.E. of the Zenana 1 
is another temple, and between i 
it and the three temples above i 
mentioned is an interesting rock ' 
excavation, one of the chambers ; 
of which has a drip -stone carved | 
on it. ' 

Returning W., and passing out- j 
side the citadel on the N.W. side, | 
where the gateway figured in ] 
Fergusson’s Indian Afch'itecture 
stands, and crossing the remains 
of a fine bazar, the next group of 
buildings of interest is reached on 
the S. side of the hill which 
dominates the village of Hampi. 
The first of these, on the left of 
the road, is a gigantic image of 
the Narsingh Avatar, carved out 
of a single block of granite, in an 
enclosure of ponderous granite 
blocks. The figure is that of a 
colossal lion - headed man with 
enormous projecting circular eyes j 
and a huge mouth ; it is seated, j 
and has its legs and arms broken j 
A spirited carving of the Shesh j 
Nag forms the canopy of the idol j 
The monolithic uprights at the ! 
door are 18 ft. 8 in. high out of | 
the ground. Just outside the i 
gate is an upright stone with j 
a Kanarese inscription* on both j 
sides. A few yards N. of this I 
enclosure is a small temple con- j 
taining a huge Lingam and Yoni, I 
the largest representation of these 
objects of worship existing. 

N.E. is a vast temple to Krishna- 
swami, enclosed by a granite 
wall. The breadth of the chief 
court is 200 ft. from N. to S., and 
the length 320 ft. from E. to W. 
At the gopuram which forms the 
entrance is a stone 8 ft. high, 
with a Kanarese inscription on 
both sides. There is also on the 
columns of the gopuram an in- 
scription in Nagri and Kanarese. 
The carving of the various por- 
tions of the temple is noticeable, 
and the whole enclosure is ex- 
tremely. picturesque. N. of this 


temple, about 50 yds. off the road, 
ih a temple with a huge Ganesh 
10 ft. high ; and a few yards 
farther another, vastly solid, built 
of granite, dedicated to Ganesh, 
in which the idol is 18 ft. high. 
The size of the enormous granite 
slabs which form the roof is 
remarkable. After passing thi? 
temple the precincts of what is 
now called Hampi are entered, 
and Langtty monkeys may be seen 
in considerable numbers. A road- 
way, at a moderate incline, has 
been substituted for the old steps, 
so that it is now possible to drive 
I into Hampi. After passing on the 
; left a square building, which may 
I have been a math, and some gigan- 
I tic trees, the portal of the great 
j temple of Hampi, which is sacred 
I to Siva, under the name of Pampa- 
i pati Swami, is reached. The gop- 
1 Liram at the N. entrance is truly 
I :5igantic, and taken in all its dimen- 
sions is (being over 165 ft. high) 
perhaps one of the largest in India. 
The length of the first quadrangle 
trom E. to W. is 208 ft , and its 
breadth from N, to S. 134 ft. The 
second quadrangle is smaller, and 
has arcades all round built ol 
granite. Europeans must not 
enter the second inner quadrangle, 
unless permitted to do so by the 
temple authorities. But there 
IS no need to do so, as the 
temple differs in nothing from the 
ordinary type which ran be vi sited 
anywhere. 

At the E. end of the grassy 
* avenue in front of the temple is 
another large temple, pictur- 
esquely Situated on a ridge, and 
approached by a long flight of 
I steps with pavilions The road 
I turns N. from here and leads to 
j the river, which makes a sudden 
1 bend at this point, and after pass- 
I ing a temple of Ramaswami 
I (Ramchandra) with a stone lamp- 
stand in front of it, and the ruins 
of the old bridge, reaches at a 
distance of f m. the temple of 
[ Witthoba, or Vijaya Vitalaswami, 

' also figured in Fergusson (i, 403). 



ROUTE 30. HAM PI BELLARV 5IC) 


In front of this is a stone-weighing j 
frame, and at the S. end of it is ; 
a stone rath (car) 26 ft. high. | 
There are three temples in the j 
enclosure, which has four Dra- i 
vidian gopurams. The second j 
temple, on the left of the entrance, j 
is much the largest and finest ; 
The ceiling was formed ol slabs of j 
granite 35 ft. long, but all the 
slabs have been thrown down 
except two in the centre There , 
are fourteen columns, which sup- ^ 
ported the roof. Most of them | 
are carved into representations of ' 
horsemen mounted on yah lions. , 
One represents the Narsingh ! 
Avatar. In some cases the yah ■ 
IS supported by elephants. Within j 
IS a court 100 ft. long from E. to I 
W. and 62 ft broad from N". to S. ! 
On the S. side are numerous ' 
Kanarese inscription::!. S. of the j 
temple is a large dharrnsala with i 
sixty -two pilkirb, on which are \ 
curious reliefs of female monkeys | 
and dwarfs. On the right of the | 
entrance is a platform with tliirty | 
nine shorter pillars. These are 1 
also carved with curious re pro sen- ! 
tations of monkeys, their heads j 
crowned with two small figures I 
of gods. The third temple is j 
some 20 yds. N. of the car I 

An hour or so may well be spent 1 
in the solitude of these beautiful I 
ruins. Any one who may wish to 1 
ascend the hills above Anagundi, j 
on the left bank of the river, for i 
the sake of a general view over 1 
Vijayanagar, can cross the Tunga- ; 
bhadra in a circular basket- J 
boat, such as were used on the 
Tigris and Euphrates 2500 years j 
ago, and are still so used. The . 
Matanga Temple affords a fine j 
general vie\v of the ruins. The 1 
ruins at Hampi have been officially j 
surveyed, and a full account of 1 
them is contained in the Report ! 
of the Archieological Department 1 
of the Southern Circle, Madras, - 
for 1012-r:;. j 


93 m Bellary station (R , D.B ). 
—A municipal town and large 
military station, headquarters of 
district of same name (population 
34,956) A spur from the Sandur 
range runs along the S. side of the 
Cantonment, and extends E. to 
Budihal, S m. distant, where it 
abruptly terminates. A high 
point in this range opposite the 
fort IS called the Copper yioxtn- 
tain, the height beipg 1600 ft 
above the plain and 2800 ft, above 
the sea. Excavations are still to 
be seen in it ; these are said to 
be the remains of mines worked 
by order of Hyder 'Ali, but aban- 
doned in consequence of the 
expense exceeding the profit. 
Besides copper, hematitic iron 
ore 13 found" in large quantities, 
some possessing magnetic proper- 
ties. 

The Jrort, built on a bare granite 
rock of -semi-elliptical form, rises 
abruptly from the plain to the 
height of 450 ft. The rock is 
defended by two distinct lines ol 
works, constituting the lower and 
upper forts, both built of granite. 
In the upper one stands the 
citadel, which is reputed to be 
of great antiquity. Several tanks 
or cisterns have been hollowed out 
in the rock, to hold rain - water. 
The lower fort was built for Tipu 
Sultan in 1792 by a staff of French 
engineers, tradition adding that 
after the new citadel had been 
completed Tipu Sultan hanged 
them at the gate, as he found that 
his fort was commanded by 
another rock. The place came 
into the possession of the British 
in 1800 Besides the ruins at 
Hampi, there is much to be seen 
in the Bellary District — viz., the 
Temple of Bhimeswara at Nila- 
gunda, 8 v^ S W. of Harpanahalli 
(excellent road for 7 m.) ; the 
ruined Harpanahalli Fort ; the 
Kalleswara Temple at Bagali, 
4 m N. of Harpanahalli ; a pre- 
historic mound at Budi-Canive, 
representing the remains either 
of those slain in battle or of great 



52o ROUTE 30 . GADAG JUNCTION TO GUNTAKAL : KURXnOL India 


bacrificial holocausts ; the Kappa- ^ 
gallu, known as Peacock Hill " ; i 
the lull fortress of Ragadrug | 
with its Jain antiquities (rock-cut : 
bas-relief sculptures) and three ' 
cells ; a very fine well at Tam- I 
barahalli ; and other objects for , 
which the Bel I ary District Gazet- ■ 
teer should be consulted. j 

123 m. Guntakal junction station j 
(see p. 477). 

(a) Guntakal to Bezwada. 

17 m. from Guntakal Tuggali 
station. Pattikonda (D.B.) (popu- 
lation 5328) is the headquarters 
of a Tahsiidar, and is 7 m. to the 
N. of Tuggali, connected by road. 
Sir Thomas Munro, Governor of 
Madras, died here on the 6th June 
1827 of cholera, when on tour 
in the District. To his memory 
Government constructed a fine 
cut-stone well with a mandapam, 
or porch, and planted a grove of | 
tamarind-trees around it. A new 1 
town called Munro’s Square was 
built on this occasion, with a i 
rampart wall all round. The wall ; 
and gates are still in a state , 
of fair preservation. The Taluk 
office contains an interesting 
bas - relief of Munro (which is 
rapidly crumbling) and a very 
mediocre replica of the same. 

43 m. from Guntakal Dron- 
achellam or Dhone (D.B.) (popu- 
lation 3985) is headquarters of 
a Deputy-Collector and a Tahsii- 
dar. 

Peapalli (population 3675} is 
situated 15 m. from Dhone, on 
the Gooty road, and ii m from 
Gooty (a railw^ay station on the 
Madras- Raichur line). It has a 
D.B. It is a Deputy-Tahsildar’b 
headquarters, It is situated at 
the foot of a granite hill, and is 
the most elevated town in the 
District, being 1750 ft. above 
the sea-level ; considered to be , 
the sanatorium of the District. 


Branch Line from Dhone. 

A branch line is taken from 
Dhone northwards as far as 
Kurnool, which is the headquar- 
ters of the District. 

13 m. from Dhone Veldurti 
(D.B.) (population 3446). 5 m. 

to the W. of Veldurti there is a 
village called Ramallakota (popu- 
lation 1744), w'here there are 
indications of alluvial washings 
and rock-working for diamonds. 

33 m. from Dhone Kumool 
(D.B) (population 25,837). The* 
' headquarters of the District, and a 
municipal towm, situated at the 
1 unction of the Hindri and the 
Tungabhadra. The temperature 
j is high in April, May, and June. 

I The old fort Avas dismantled in 
1862. The fort wall along the 
River Tungabhadra and some of 
the bastions are still intact. There 
are two gates leading to the River 
Tungabhadra . The town still con- 
tains the Palace of the Nawabs, 
Avhicli IS almost in ruins. There 
are several mosques and a fine 
mausoleum of Abdul Wahab, the 
first Nawab to whom the place was 
j given in jagir by the Emperor 
Aurangzeb. These Pathan Na- 
i wabs and those of Cuddapah took 
a prominent part in the i8th ceii- 
! tury ; they were first absorbed by 
I the Xizam, and afterwards by 
I Hyder 'Ali. In 1S38 information 
reached Government that the last 
Xawab Ghulam Rasul Khan w'as 
engaged in treasonable military 
preparations on an extensive scale. 
The town and fort were then cap- 
tured after a short fight, and the 
Xawab escaped to Zorahpur, which 
lies on the S, bank of the Hindri. 
The name is derived from Zorah, 
a sister of Abdul Wahab, the first 
Bijapur Subadar. The Nawab 
was deposed in 1839. An anient 
IS constructed across Tungabhadra 
at Sunkesula, a village 17 m. from 
Kurnool, whence the Kumoo]- 



ROUTE 30 . MALKAPURAM XAXDYAI — GUNTUR 52T 


Cuddapah Canal traverses the j 
District vid Xandyal. There are i 
bungalows at convenient stages | 
along the canal, and boats can 
be obtained between July and ! 
December on application to the j 
Executive Engineer at Kumool j 
The Government Fisheries Depart- | 
ment has opened a fish - breeding 
farm at Sunkesula. 


Guntakal-Bezwada line {contd.). 

51 m. from Guntakal IVIalka- 
purara (population 1924) 7 m { 

to the S. of this there is a village j 
called Alliabad, a hamlet of Muni- ! 
maduga, where there are diamond | 
mines for which a mining licence 1 
has been granted. j 

66 m, from Guntakal Betam- [ 
cherla (population 3956). Barytes j 
and steatite are found in the neigh- j 
bouring villages of Muddavaram, ' 
Ambapuram, and Balapalapalli. ' 
There is a rock fortress which is t 
m ruins. Prospecting ior dia- | 
nionds goes on in the neigh- j 
bourhood i 

81 m. from Guntakal Panyam , 
(D.B.) (population 3698) contains i 
a tank round which small-game 
shooting is fairly plentiful. A tbad I 
connects it with Banganapalle, | 
which is the chief town of the I 
Native State. There are diamond | 
mines near Banganapalle, for I 
which a mining lease has been ' 
granted by the Nawab. 1 

91m. from Guntakal is the rnum- ' 
cipal town of Nandyal (population , 
16,230). There is a R.H. close , 
to the railway station, which is ' 
sometimes available on previous 
application to the Superintendent, 
Agricultural Department, Bellar\-. 
The Government Agricultural Farm 
is close by. There is also a ' 
canal bungalow. There are two 
big tanks separated bv a road lead- , 
iTig to the canal bungalow. The ■ 
place takes its name from Nandi, 


the bull of Siva, to whom a temple 
IS dedicated. There are three 
cotton presses and two ginning 
factones. There are several 
mission buildings. 

Before reaching Nandyal the line 
passes through the Yerramalai 
Hills, and, after passing it, through 
the Nallamalai Hills, by many 
picturesque curves. 

100 m. from Guntakal Gazula- 
palli (population S40). There 
IS a forest R.H. Big-game 
shooting can be obtained in the 
Xallamalais on licence granted by 
application to the District Forest 
Officer, South Kurnool. Maha- 
nandi, a place of pilgrimage with 
a temple and a perennial spring, 
5 m. distant, deserves a visit, 

133 m from Guntakal Gidda- 
lore (population 3737)- P.W.D, 
R H. and forest R.H. It is the 
headquarters of the Tahsildar 
and an S.P.G. missionary. 

154 m. from Guntakal, Cumhum 
(population 6344). This contains 
a beautiful tank, which was con- 
structed by damming by a bund 
37 ft. high a gorge between two 
hills by ^"a^adarajaInrna, wife of 
Krishna Devarayadu. a King of 
Vijayanagar. It irrigates 6000 
acres- There is a P.W.D. R.H. on 
the tank bund. 

259 m. from Guntakal is Guntur 
station (K. ; D.B ) It was im- 
portant in the i8th century as a 
capital of the 4 N. Circars (Sirkars) 
held in jagir by Basalat Jang, 
brother of Nizam 'Ah, after the 
others were ceded to the E.I. Co. 
Many old French tombs in the 
cemetery. It is now an important 
American Mission centre ; also an 
important cotton mart and centre 
of the tobacco trade : there are 
several cotton presses The Am- 
ravati Buddhist remains are 22 m. 
by road from Guntur. The rail- 
wjv crosses the Krishna bv a long 



522 ROUTE 30. GADAG JUNCTION TO GUNTAKAL ; ANANTAPUPv India 


badge (p. 45S), just below the 
irrigation dnm, before entering 

279 m. Bezwada (R.) D.B, 

(6) Guntakal to Bangalore. 

42 m. Anantapur, headquarters 
of a District formed in 1882. There 
are interesting antiquities at 
Penukonda (“Big Hill“), the resi- 
dence of the Vijayanagar Princes 
as early as 1354. The King and 
his court fled there after the 
disastrous Battle of Talikota, 
1565 The remains of the citadel 
of the fort are on the top of the 
hill, 3000 ft. high. The build- 
ings worth seeing have been 
described m the Report of the 
Archeological Department, South- 
ern Circle, Madras, for 1912- 13, 
already mentioned. In the 
compound of the Sub-Collector’s 
office is a hne lofty stamhha 
or stone pillar, some 40 ft. 
high and of elegant proportions 
At Anantapur town there are 
buildings erected by Sir Thomas 
Munro soon after 1800, when the 
Ceded Districts were handed over 
to the E.I. Company, and Munro 
was appointed their first Principal 
Collector. There are his bungalow 
(now occupied by the Assistant 
Collector), court- room, and a few 
old wells. An inscription states 
that the house was once the 
residence of Sir Thomas Munro. 
The^^ court - room is still known 
as “ Munro Hall,” and has an 
engraved portrait of Munro. Near 
Kalyandrug town, 36 m. W.S.W. 
of Anantapur and 22 m. from 
Rayadrug railway station, there are 
innumerable prehistoric remains, 
cairns, and ruined cell-tombs 

63 m. from Guntakal is Dharma- 
varam junction (R.). Branch of 
the S. Indian Railway to Pakala 
(142 m.). 3^ m. from the Mula- 

calacheruvu station (65 m ) is ' 
the picturesque Sompalle Temple, 
with a stone car and beautiful 
monolithic flagstaff 50 ft. high 


112 m. Hindupur (K.). The 
temple here is the special object 
of pilgrimages. 

At Lepakshi, 9 m. E. of Hindu- 
pur, is a large temple to Virab- 
hadra (a form of Siva), ,with a 
colossal stone bull about 15 ft. 
high and 27 ft. in length standing 
near it. The temple is in the 
Vijayanagar style of architecture, 
and has an inscription ascribing 
to its building the date 1538 a.d. 


15 1 m from Guntakal is Dod- 
bellapur. 12 m. to the E. of this 
station rises 


Kaudidrug, a strong hill fort 
4851 ft. above sea-level It \vas 
thought impregnable by Tipu 
Sultan, being inaccessible except 
irom the W.. and there strongly 
fortified It was taken, however, 
by General Meadows on the 19th 
October 1791, with the loss of 
only thirty killed and wounded, 
chiefly by the tremendous masses 
of granite rolled down the rock 
on the heads of the assailants. 
The rock called Tipu’s Drop, 
projecting from the fortress, has 
a precipice of 1000 ft. clear below 
it. 

Nandi is a railway station for 
visitors to the Nandidrug Hills. 
From the station to the foot of the 
Hill the distance is about 2^ m : 
Irom a vnllage there, named” Sul- 
tanpet, to the top there is a flight 
of about 1175 steps : chairs can 
be obtained for the ascent : there 
is also a bridle-path. In the 
hottest months of the year the 
summit is cooler than Bangalore, 
and the climate is very nearly 
equal to that of Coonoor in the 
Nilgins, so it is becoming a resort 
m the hot season for both Euro- 
peans and Indians. There are six 
tarnished bungalows on the hilh 
The Superintendent, Government 
' wardens, Lai Bagh, Bangalore, will, 

.ipphcation arrange for accom- 



ROUTE 31 - TTUr.LI JUXCTfOX TO BANGALORE* GRR'^OPPA 523 


modation and food. There are 
sheds for motors at the foot ot 
the hill. 

174 m. from Guntakal is 
Bangalore junction (p. 527). 


ROUTE 31- i 

HUBLI JUNCTION to EARIHAE 
BIRUB (for Shimoga and the 
Gersoppa Falls), Banavar (for j 
expedition to the temples at ! 
Hallabid and Belur, also to the j 
Hill of Indrabetta, near Sravana i 
Belgola), Arsikere Tumkur, and 
Bangalore. 

Hubli junction station (R ) ! 
(P- on the Madras and 1 

Southern Mahratta Railway. I 

81 m. from Hubli junction is | 
Haribar station (R.), on the ‘ 
right bank of the Tungabhadra. ; 
In 1868 a very fine bridge was | 
constructed oyer the river. An | 
inscription on copper has been 
found here of the 7th century, | 
and there are several of the 12th. | 
The fine temple was erected in 
1223. In 1268 additions were 
made by Soma, the founder of 
Somnathpur in the Mysore Dis- 
trict (p. 530). I 

124 m. Holalkero. From here [ 
the interesting fortified Hill of 


Chitaldrug (D.B ), lying 26 m. to 
the N R., may be visited. From 
Hosdurga, 20 m S, of Holalkere, 
may be visited the great Man- 
kanve Lake, formed by a dam, 
T200 ft. long and 140 ft. high, 
across the Hagari Valley, and 
covering 35 sq. m. There is a 
penstock %\’ith a fall of 60 ft. by 
the dam. This work too was 
inaugurated by Sir K. Seshadri 
lyar fp. 532). “ 


160 m. Birur junction, branch 
line to (38 m.) Shimoga (D.B.), 
the headquarters of the N.W. 
l')istrict of the Mysore State. 
Just before Shimoga is reached 
the Bhadra River is crossed not 
very far from its sources. 

This IS now the most convenient 
starting-point for the Gersoppa, as 
they are usually called, or Jog 
Falla of the Saravati, distant 
65 ni , the stages, each with a 
R.H., being A^-anur (15 m ), 
Anantpur (15 m.), Sagar (15 m,), 
Talgappc (10 m.), Gersoppa Falls 
fio m ). A jatka mail-cart now 
runs daily to Sagar (special, Rs.8) ; 
il application is made beforehand 
to the Amildar, Sagar, he will be 
sure to lend courteous assistance 
to obtain a bullock tonga and 
arrange for relays of bullocks on 
to the falls. The charge per 
pair of bullocks or buffaloes is 
an. 3 per mile There is now, 
also a private motor service. 
Supphes must be taken with one 
for the journey. The road is 
pretty and interesting, and passes 
through much fine bamboo and 
tree forest. The journey will 
occupy two full days, as the 
bullocks cannot go more than 4 m. 
an hour on an all-round average 
Some miles above the falls the road 
to the jMysore bungalow on the left 
bank turns down to the Saravati, 
which is here an extremely beauti- 
ful, broad, deep stream flowing be- 
tween high finely- wooded banks, 
while the main Honavar road con- 
tinue- diroctlv on to rhe Bombav 



524 ROUTE 31- HUBLI JUNCTION 

bungalow at Kodkani, on the right 
bank close to the Raja Fall. 

There are in all four falls, which 
have been called the Raja, the 
Roarer, the Rocket, and the 
Dame Blanche. In the first of 
these the water in considerable 
volume leaps sheer down a height 
of 829 ft., measured by line, and 
falls into a pool 132 ft deep. 
The spectator can look right down 
into this abyss. Viewed from 
below and at some distance thi^ 
fall contrasts with magical effect 
with the next, the Roarer, in 
which the water rushes with less 
abruptness, foaming down a tor- 
tuous channel into a cavern or 
cup, which turns it into the rift 
of the Raja below. The name 
given to the third fall, at a little 
distance to the S., the Rocket, is 
very appropriate. It continually 
shoots out in jets of foam, which 
burst hke fire-rockets into showers 
of glittering drops. The Dame 
Blanche, nearest the S, end of the 
cliff, is exquisitely beautiful, and 
streams in a succession of lace-like 
cascades over the sloping surfaces 
of the rock wall underneath it. 
The finest view is no doubt that 
from the Mysore side (though that 
from the front of the R.H. 
on the N. bank is very beautiful 
also), as from it the black chasm 
into which the Raja and Roarer 
leap and pour is fully seen, as well 
as the curving face of the cliff 
down which the Rocket and Dame 
Blanche shoot and stream. A 
particularly fine view is that from 
Lady Curzon’s seat and Watkin’s 
platform to the W. of the Mysore 
bungalow ; and no one should 
fail to make the expedition to the 
foot of the falls, steep though the 
paths are for returning. A splen- 
did surge of spray constantly rises 
from the pool into the chasm and 
the recess of the falls, and in the 
afternoon is touched with rainbow 
glories. The whole of the deep 
recess into which the waters are 
hurled is covered with fine trees 
and dense undergrowth (full of 


TO BANGALORE * GERSOPPA India 

leeches ij, and the river disappears 
to the W. between the dark walls 
of the gorge through which it 
hurries to the sea. In its full 
glory there are few more wonderful 
effects of nature to be seen any- 
where in the world ; but it must 
be remembered that in the dry 
season the amount of water in the 
falls becomes very small, and that 
m the rains the whole of the 
recess and the falls, or at least the 
chasm of the Raja, may be 
, shrouded for hours, and perhaps 
[ even days, in thick impenetrable 
^ mist. The best time for a visit 
i IS probably early in the cold 
weather, as soon as the rains have 
ceased. The following account of 
the journey to the falls from 
Honavar is from the journal of an 
accomplished writer who visited 
the place in 1S88. The trip from 
this side involves a journey by 
steamer to Karwar, a journey by 
sea-boat of 50 m. to Honavar 
(the steamers will, however, some- 
times stop off this Port), and a 
journey up the river for i8 m to 
20 m. in a small boat ; and for 
the ordinary traveller the route 
by Shimoga is now much the 
i more convenient one to take. 

! Arrangements had been made 
i for our passage to the Gersoppa 
’ Falls. We went on the same 
. night 18 in. in boats up the 
! moonht river, grounded on a 
I sandbank, and were pulled ofi 
only to find the rowers had landed 
; to drinkr success to our future 
j progress, to which this indulgence 
by no means conduced. Arrived 
at Gersoppa, we slept in the D.B., 
awoke to the crowing of the jungle 
, cock, and went on 20 m. by road 
to Kodkam. Here is another 
D.B,, whence you look down into 
. a boiling chaos of waters. The 
road from Gersoppa to Kodkani 
IS one long bower of evergreen 
I trees, and at mid-day you scarcely 
see the sun These jungles abound 
I with tigers, bears, bison, and game 
of all kinds, large and small." 

The Queen of Gersoppa, called 



ROUTE 31. EA^ 

by the Portuguese the Rainha da 
Pim^nta, or Pepper Queen, was a 
great dignitary in the 17th cen- 
tury. Her subjects were chiefly 
Jains, by whom the nearest village 
to the falls is at present almost 
entirely inhabited. Among the 
rums of the city arc two ordinary 
Jain temples. 

178 m. Banavar station. 

The renowned ruins of Hallabid 
he 18 m. S.W. from this point by 
road, past Jamgal fi2 m.). 10 m 

beyond in the same direction is 
Belur. A pleasant round may be 
continued from Belur to Hasan 
{22 m.), Chennarayapatnam (18 
m.), for Sravana Belgola (8 m ), 
and from Chennarayapatnam to 
Arsikere on the railway (32 m.), 
the whole trip occupying four long 
days in favourable weather The 
Mysore State authorities will 
arrange for relays of bullocks (see 
P 5-3) on application being made 
beforehand. A railway between 
Hasan and Arsikere is under 
construction. 

At Jamgal there is a temple 
dedicated to Narsingh, and built 
entirely of balapam, or pot-stone. 

“ It is highly ornamented after 
the Hindu fashion, and on the 
outside every part of its walls is 
covered with small images in full 
relievo.'* 

Hallabid^ (R.H.), named from 
the Kanarese words hale, “ old," 
hidii, “ ruins," is a village on the 
site of Dorasamudra, the capital 
of the Hoysala Ballala Kings. It 
was founded early m the 12th 
century, but was rebuilt in the 
middle of the 13th by Vira Somes- 
wara, and some inscriptions repre- 
sent him to be the founder. 
Attacked by leprosy, he withdrew^ 
to the neighbouring Hill of Push- 
pagiri ("Mountain of Flow^ers"), 
where he was instructed to erect 
temples to Siva to obtain a cure 

^ See Fergus',on'N I/ui. Aft/i.t i, 442. 


AVAR— HALLABID 525 

; The Muhammadan (lenerai Kafur 
took the city in 1310, and plun- 
dered it of immense w^ealth. In 
1326 another army of Muham- 
madans carried off what remained 
and destroyed the city. The Raja 
then removed to Tonnur. 

There are two most remarkable 
temples remaining. The nor- 
thernmost of these, the Ketares- 
vara, is the smaller of the two, 
and was a miracle of art. Unfor- 
tunately a tree took root in the 
vimana, or tow^er, over the sanc- 
tuary, and, dislodging the stones, 
rendered much of the temple a 
heap of ruins The temple was 
star-shaped, with sixteen points, 
and had a porch that from base 
to top " was covered with sculp- 
tures of the very best Indian art, 
and these so arranged as not 
materially to interfere with the 
outlines of the building." It was 
wdien intact the finest specimen 
of Indian art in existence 

The second temple, the Hoysa- 
leswara (" Lord of the Hoysalas "), 
is much larger than the Ketares- 
vara It stands on a terrace, 

5 ft. 6 in. in height, paved with 
large slabs The temple itself is 
i6o ft. from N. to S. by 122 ft. 
from E. to W , and be;\'ond its 
walls there is a clear margin of 
platform all round of about 20 ft. 
The height from the terrace to the 
cornice is 25 ft. It is a double 
temple, one half being sacred to 
Siva, and the other to his wdfe. 
Each half has a pavilion in front 
containing the Basava'^ Kandi, or 
bull. The larger of the two is 
16 ft. long by 7 ft. broad and 10 ft. 
high, the animal being represented 
kneeling. 

Some of the pillars in the inner 
part of the temple are of black 
hornblende, and have a dazzling 
polish. Mr Fergusson says : 

" Some of these friezes are carved 

1 \vai> founder in the 12th eentury 

of the Lingayat Saivite sect in S. and W. 
India The members, who are vegetarians, 
admit the equality of women with men, 
allow widow ^ marriage, and disregard 
Brahman 'anctit\. 



^25 ROUTE HUBLI JUNCTION TO BANGALORE; BELUK India 


with a minute elaboration of 
detail which can only be repro- 
duced by photography, and may 
probably be considered as one of 
the most marvellous exhibitions 
of human labour to be found even 
in the patient East." He adds : 

" Here the artistic combination 
of horizontal with vertical lines, 
and the play of outline and of 
light and shade, far surpass any- 
thing in Gothic art. The effects 
are just what the mediaeval archi- 
tects were often aiming at, but 
which they never attained so 
perfectly as was done at Hallabid." 
In the friezes of sculptured animals 
which surround the building the 
succession is always the same, 
the elephants being the lowest, 
next above them the sharduhis 
(or conventional lions), then the 
horses, then the oxen, then birds. 
Mr Fergusson places Hallabid 
Temple and the Parthenon as the 
two extremes of architectural art, 
and says [Ind. Arch., i, 449) : 
“ It would be possible to arrange 
all the buildings of the world 
between these two extremes, as 
they tended towards the severe 
intellectual purity of the one, or 
the playful exuberant fancy of 
the other ; but perfection, if it 
existed, would be somewhere near 
the mean." A whole day may 
well be devoted to the leisurely 
study of the wonderful work on 
these temples, but admiration for 
them should not cause neglect of 
the group of extremely beautiful 
Jain Bastis at the farther end of 
the village. 

Belur (or Baillur) (R.H.) stands 
on the right bank of the Yagache 
(population 2630). In the 
Puranas and old inscriptions it 
is called Velapura, and is styled 
the S. Benares. Here is the 
famous temple of Chenna Kesava, 
erected and endowed by the 
Hoysala Kihg, Vishnu Vardhana, 
on exchanging the Jain faith for 
that of Vishnu in the beginning of 
the 12th century. The carving 


with which it IS decorated rivals 
m design and finish that of 
Hallabid, and is the work of the 
same artist, Jakanacharya. The 
image of Chenna Kesava is said 
to have been brought from the 
Baba Budan Hills, but that of his 
goddess was left behind, which 
obliges him to pay her a visit 
there at stated intervals. The 
Great Temple stands within a high 
wall which surrounds a court 
440 ft. by 360 ft. On the E. 
front are two fine gopurams. In 
this court are, besides th'e Great 
Temple, four or five smaller ones. 
" The Great Temple consists," 
says Mr Fergusson [Ind. Arch., 
I, 439), "of a very solid vimana, 
with an antarala, or porch ; and 
in front of this a porch, or maha- 
mantapam, of the usual star-hke 
form, measuring 90 ft. across. . . • 
The arrangements of the pillars 
have much of that pleasing sub- 
ordination and variety of spacing 
which is found in those of the 
Jams ; but we miss here the 
octagonal dome, which gives 
such poetry and meaning to 
the arrangements they adopted 
Instead of these we have onU 
an exaggerated compartment m 
the centre, which ffts nothing, 
and, though it does give dignitv 
to the centre, it does it so clumsily 
as to be almost offensive in an 
architectural sense." The win- 
dows to the porch are twenty- 
eight, and all different. Some are 
pierced with star-shaped conven- 
tional patterns, and with foliaged 
patterns between. Others are 
interspersed with mythological 
figures, as the Varaha Avatar. 
The base is very richly carved, 
and is supported on carved 
elephants. Mr Fergusson says 
{Ind. Arch., i, 440) ; " The 

amount of labour which each facet 
of this porch displays is such as 
never was bestowed on any 
surface of equal extent in any 
building in the world ; and though 
the design is not of the highest 
order of art, it is elegant and 



ROUTE 31. ARISKERE 

appropriate, and never offends 
against good taste. The sculp- 
tures of the base of the vimaua 
are as elaborate as those of the 
porch, in some places more so ; 
and the mode in which the 
undersides of the cornices have 
been elaborated and adorned 13 
such as is only to be found in 
temples of this class." The carv- 
ing at Belur is more graceful and 
finer than that at Hallabid, and 
many of the figures on the exterior 
are extremely beautiful. 

188 m. Arsitere station (R.)* 
There is a beautiful temple here, 
built by Ballala II. in the 12th 
century a.d. A railway from here 
to Hasan and thence to Mysore 
City is under construction. 1 

32 m. S from this place is the 
ancient town of Ckennarayapat- 
nam} The fort was built sub- 
sequently, and Hyder 'Ah added 
the wet nioat and traverse gate- 
ways, 

8 m. S.E again is Sravana 
Belgola. Bhadra Bahu, a Jain | 
sage who died here in the 4th ' 
century b.c., was a Sviiia kevaJa, | 
or immediate “ hearer," of the 1 
six disciples of Mahavira, founder 1 
of the Jain sect. The chief 
attendant of this worthy is said 
to have been the famous Emperor 
Chandragupta, or Sandracottus, 
who abdicated to hve the life of j 
a recluse with him These events 
are confirmed by inscriptions on , 
the rock of very great antiquity. ! 
The grandson of Chandragupta is I 
said to have visited the spot with j 
an army, and from his camp arose ! 
the town of Sravana Belgola, or 
Belgola of the Sravans = Jains 
Rear the town are two rock}'’ hills 
— indrabetta ajid C handy agin. On ; 
Indrabetta, reached by a steep, | 
narrow flight of steps going i 
straight up the steep slope of the ^ 
rock, is a colossal statue of Gomata ' 


—BELGOLA BANGALORE 327 

I RayaJ 70 ft. 3 in. It is nude, 
j and faces the N. The face has 
; the calm look usual in Buddhist 
I statues. The hair is curled m 
short spiral ringlets all over the 
head. From the knees downwards 
the legs are unnaturally short ; 

I the feet rest on a lotus. Ant-hills 
! rise on either side, with a creeping 
i plant springing from them which 
{ twines round the thighs and arms. 
These symbolise the deep abstrac- 
tion of the sage, which allows ants 
to build and the plants to climb 
around him unnoticed. Though 
I certainly 1000 years old, and 
J; probably 2000, the stone looks as 
j fresh as if newly quarried : its 
I preservation is due to its being 
I profusely anointed at intervals 
of 25 years. Within the enclosure 
are 72 small statues, of like 
appearance, in compartments. 
An inscription on the front of the 
colossus states that it was erected 
by Cham un da Raya, who is said 
to have lived 60. b.c. The most 
interesting inscriptions are cut m 
the face of the rock at Indrabetta 
in ancient characters i ft. long. 
On Chandragiri there are fifteen 
Jain temples, making clusters of 
the kind known as Bastis, and a 
number of stone lamp shafts — 
see 2, 74 of Fergusson’s Indian 
A rchitechire. 

24S m. Tumkur station {R.) 
(population 6039). Glass bangles, 
arms, and cutlery are produced 
here. 

291 m. BANGALORE City 
junction station (altitude 4000 ft , 
lat 12° 57', long. 77° 37' ; popu- 
lation 88,651), The railway runs 
on S.W. to Mysore, N. to Guntakai, 
and E. to Jalarpat for Madras. 
The Cantonment station lies 2 m. 
N.E. of the city station. The 
name is literally " the town of 
bengalu," a kind of bean. The 
Cantonment area assigned to the 
British Government when the 

' Aiiutlici name of Gotama Suaim. bee 
p Iwvii. 


* I'he temple was erected in lOoo. 



Ind’a 


528 ROUTE 31. HUBLI JUNCTION TO BANGALORE 


State of Mysore was restored to | 
its Indian Prince is 13 J sq. m ! 
This State, which is the third : 
largest in all India, comprises an | 
area of 29,474 sq. m., and contains j 
a population of 5,806,193. The ' 
present Chief is Col. H.H. Maha- j 
raja Sri Sir Krishnaraja Wadiyar j 
Bahadur, G.C.S.I. The ruling ! 
family was established as such ' 
early in the 15th century, was | 
ousted by Hyder 'Ah, and was ! 
restored in the person of the | 
grandson of the deposed Prince, j 
a child of five years of age, in | 
1799 A.D. The conduct of this j 
Chief, Krishna Raja Wadivar, % 
and the mismanagement of the } 
State, led to the assumption of I 
the administration by the British i 
Government in 1831, under treaty j 
stipulation of 1799. Various j 
applications of the Maharaja for ' 
the restoration of powers to him : 
were rejected ; but in 1866 it was | 
decided to recognise his adoption * 
as a son of Chama Rajendra, and 
that the State should be restored ' 
to this Chief should he prove fit. 1 
Maharaja Krishna Raja Wadiyar I 
died in 1868, and in 1881 the i 
rendition of the State to Maharaja ■ 
Chama Rajendra Wadiyar w^as j 
carried out. The late Maharaja j 
proved an excellent ruler, and ' 
died prematurely in 1894 During i 
the minority of her son, till August 1 
1902, Her Highness the Maharani 
Regent, C.I., carried on the ad- 
ministration with a Council of 
Regency, Sir K. Seshadri lyar i 
being Diwan. The late Diwan, 
Sir Krishna Murti, K.C.I.E., was 
descended from Diwan Purnaya, 
the famous Prime Minister of 
Mysore, a Mahratta Brahman who l 
served alike Hyder ’Ali, Tipu I 
Sultan, and the British Govern- ] 
nient. The present Diwan is 
Sir jM Visvesvaraya, K.C.I.E. 

The Cantonment (the largest 
in the S. of India — population 
100,834) and City of Bangalore 
(population 88,651) stretch from 
the Maharaja’s Palace on the N., 
6500 yds., to the Koramangala 


Tank on the S., and an equal 
distance from the Petfa on the 
W. to the Sappers’ Practice- 
ground on the E. Bangalore 
proper lies S. of the Dharmam- 
budhi and Sampangi Tanks, which 
lie in the X.W. and E. corner^ 
of the Petta, or towii. Beginning 
with the Cantonment, and taking 
the noticeable things in order from 
N.W. to S.E., the first building is 
the handsome Maharaja's Palace 
2 m. N. of the Palace is the Science 
Institute, founded by the munifi' 
cent liberality of the well-known 
Tata family of Parsi merchant 
Princes, wdiich bids fair to attain 
to a world-wude reputation. The 
gift to the Institute has been no 
less than lakhs. S E. of this 
856 yds, IS the railw^ay station, 
and 300 vds. S. of that again is 
Miller's Tank, wRich communi- 
cates by a small stream with the 
much larger Ulsoor Tank on the 
E. edge of the Cantonment. 
Along the N. side of the Canton- 
ment are the bazars and the 
pleasant suburbs of Cleveland 
Town, PicJiLii'ds Town, and Frasev 
Town (a modern extension) m w hich 
are some neat residences and 
Roman Catholic and Protestant 
Churches ; also a large tobacco 
factory. The Sappers' quarters 
are at the E, corner of the bazar 
adjoining the village and large 
tank of Ulsoor} 

S. of the Sapper lines are the 
British Infantry Barracks, ami 
then in order along the X side 
of the great Parade-ground, St 
Andrews’s Kirk, built 1864, the 
Mam Guard, the Y.M.C A., the 
BowTing Civil Hospital, and the 
l.ady Curzon Women’s Hospital. 
Directly S. of Ulsoor are the Artil- 
lery Barracks, and S. again of them 
the Cavalry Barracks, the old 
Cemetery, the Mounted Parade, 
the Artillery Practice-grounds, and 
the new- Army Y.M.C. A. buildings, 
the foundation-stone of which was 
laid by Lord Hardinge. 

^ Morrlb’s Guide to Fians[alore can be 
retonimended. 





ROUTE HUBLI JUNCTION' TO BANGALORE 


State of Mysore was restored to 
Jts Indian Pnnee is 135 sq m 
This State, which is the third 
largest in all India, comprises an 
area of 20.474 sq m , and contain> 
a population ot 5.806.193. The 
present Chief is Col H.IL Maha- 
raja Sri Sir Krishnaraja Wadivar 
Bahadur, (i,C S I The ruling 
family was established a^ such 
early in the 13th century, was 
ousted by Hyder ’Ah, and was 
restored in the person of the 
grandson of the deposed Prince, 
a child ot live vears of age, in 
1799 A.i) The conduct of this 
Chief, Krishna Raja W'arlivar, 
and the mismanagement of the 
State, led to the assumption ot 
the administration by the British 
Government in 1831, under trcat\ 
'stipulation of 1799. \6iriou-, 
a[)p!ications of the Maharaja tor 
the restoration of powers to him 
were rejected ; but in i860 it wa-^ 
decided ro recognise his adoption 
as a son of Chama I^ajendra, and 
that the State should be resloreel 
to this Chief should he prove fit. 
Maharaja Krishna Raja Wadivar 
died in 1S68, and m 1S81 the 
rendition of the State to Maharaja 
Chama Rajendra Wadivar was 
earned out. The late Maharaja 
proved an excellent ruler, and 
died prematurely m 1 894 . During 
the minority of her son, till August 
1902, Her Highness the Maharani 
Regent, C.I.. carried on the ad- 
ministration with a Council of 
Regency, Sir K. Seshadri lyar 
being Diwan. The late Diwan, 
Sir Krishna Murti, K C.LE.. was j 
descended from Diwan Purnaya, | 
the famous Prime Minister of ' 
Mysore, a Mahratta Brahman who 1 
served alike Hyder 'Ali, Tipu i 
Sultan, and the British Govern- 
ment. The present Diwan is 
Sir M Visvesvaraya, K.C I K. 

The Cantonment (the largest 
in the S of India — population 
100,834) and City of Bangalore 
(population 88,651) stretch from 
the Maharaja's Palace on the N., 
6500 yds., to the Koraniangala 


Tank on the S . and an equal 
distance from the Ptifa on ihc 
W U) the Sappers’ Practice- 
ground on the IT Bangalore 
proper lies S of the Dharmam- 
budhi and Sampangi Tanks, which 
he m the N.W. and E corner'^ 
of tlie Petia, or towrt. Beginning 
With the Cantonment, and taking 
the noticeable things in order from 
X.W’ to S-E., the first building u 
: the handsome Maharaja s Palace 
; 2 m X. of the Palace is the Science 
Institute, founded by the munili- 
cent liberality of the welTknov\ii 
Tata lamily of Parsi merchant 
^ Princes, which bids fair to attain 
to a world- wide reputation, iht 
gift to the Institute has been no 
les.v, than 30 lakhs S E. of thu 
I 850 yds. is the railway station, 
and 300 vds. S of that again is 
Millci's Tank, whicli communi- 
cates by a small stream with the 
much larger Ulsoor Tank on the 
IT edge of the Cantonment 
.Vlong the N. side of the Canton- 
ment arc the bazars and the 
pleasant suburbs of Cleveland 
' Tou'u, Pichardo To.vn, and 

Toujn (a modern extension) in wIulIi 

are some neat residences and 
Roman Catholic and Protestant 
; Churches ; also a large tobacco 
factory. The Sappers’ quarters 
are at the E. corner of the bazar 
adjoining the village and large 
i tank of Ulsoor} 

S. of the Sapper lines are the 
British Infantry Barracks, and 
then in order along the X side 
of the great Parade-ground. St 
Andrew’s Kirk, built 1864, the 
Mam Guard, the M C A , the 
}5owrmg Civil Hospital, and the 
l.ady Curzon Women’s Hospital. 

1 directly S. of Ulsoor are the Artil- 
lery Barracks, and S. again of them 
1 he Cavalry Barracks, the old 
C'emetery, the Mounted Parade, 
tile Artillery Practice-grounds, and 
the new Army Y.M.C.A. buildings, 
the foundation-stone of which was 
laid by Lord Hardinge. 

^ Morris’s Guide to Bangalore can be 
it‘-OuimendetL 








ROUTE 31. BANGALORE 


5^9 


N.W. of the Artillery Barracks j and in front of them a good statue 
IS Tiinitv Church, which contains of General Mark Cubbon.Commis- 


a half - length statue in white 
marble^ by MacDowell, R A., to 
General Clement Hill, who served 
through the Peninsular campaigns 
under his brother Lord Hill, and 
when commanding the ^lysore 
Division died on the 20th of 
January 1845 while on a pleasure 
trip to the Falls of Gersoppa. \V. 
of Trinity Church are the Wesleyan 
Chapel, the Pubhc Unices, which 
include the offices of the Collector 
and District Magistrate, the Re- 
sident’s Treasiirv, etc., the Mayo 
Hall, which contains the munici- 
pal office and iLe G\ mkhana, 
standing in the General Parade- 
ground, which is more than i m. 
long from E. to W. A little S. of 
Its centre are the St Joseph’s Col- 
lege and the Bank of Madras, 
and S.E. of that again the Roman 
Catholic Cathedral and All Saiyits' 
Church. 

S. of the \V. end of the Grand 
Parade-ground is the St Mark's 
Church, in which is a tablet to 
Lieut.-Col. Sir Walter Scott of 
Abbotsford, who died at sea in 
1847, aged forty-six. To the W. 
of this is the Cubhon Park, the 
fashionable afternoon resort. In 
this are the Museum, and the Sir 
Seshadri ^Memorial Halh wdiere 
the Mysore Government Pubhc 
Library is located. In the vesti- 
bule are a slab with twelve Persian j 
distiches, brought from Tipu’s | 
Palace in the fort, a figure of a ; 
Jam deity with very superb carv- | 
^ng round it. In the large room i 
adjoining there is a valuable col- ! 
lection of geological specimen^. [ 
Lpstairs are stuffed animals, j 
butterflies, and native ornaments ' 
and dresses, and a most remark- 
able collection of fishes. N.E. of j 
ihe Museum is the Memorial j 
statue of the Queen Empress, 
anveiled by King George, then , 
iVince of Wales, on 5th February 1 
^906, and W. IS a fine building j 
525 ft. long from N.E. to S.W., | 
'vhich icon tains the Public Offices, \ 


I sioner of Mysore. The Kesidency 
I is about \ m. N. of the Public 
I Offices . To the E . of it are the Post 
[ Office and the new Telegraph Office, 

' which rvere built recently. 

' The city of Bangalore proper 
has an area of only 9.76 sq. m. 
The Petta, as it is called, was until 
recent times surrounded by a deep 
I ditch and thorn hedge. There is 
an excellent market betrveen the 
Fort and Mysore Gates. The 
Brahman quarter is called Siddi 
Katte The streets are somewhat 
narrow and irregular, but scattered 
about there are well - built and 
; imposing mansions belonging to 
j rvealthy inhabitants. The grain- 
j market, Taragu-petta, and cotton 
] market, Arale-petta, present busy 
j scenes of traffic. 

I The port is due S. of the Petta 
i It is 2400 ft. from N, to S anti 
j 1800 ft. from E. to W , and could 
never have been a strong place 
against European troops It is of 
an oval shape, with one gatewav 
now" remaining — the Delhi Gate on 
the N. face opposite the Petta. 
The Delhi Gate is handsomelv 
built of cut granite. When Lord 
Cornw-allis, on the ^ist March 
1791, determined to storm the 
place, there w-ere five power- 
ful cavaliers (Wilks, Historical 
Sketches of the 5 . of India, 3, 
123), a faussebraye, ditch, and 
covered w-ay, but in no part was 
there a perfect flanking defence. 
The garrison, how^ever, consisted 
of 8000 men under Bahadur Khan, 
and there were besides 2000 
regular Infantry in the Petta and 
5000 irregular. In addition to 
all, Tipu himself, with an army 
far superior in numbers to that of 
Lord Cornwallis, was prepared to 
take advantage of any error on 
the part of the besiegers. The 
Petta had been previously taken 
by the British on the 7th of March, 
with a loss on their part of 
1 31 killed and wounded, and on 
the part of the Mysore garrison 



530 ROUTE 32 . (a) BANGALORE TO MYSORE ’ MALVALLI India 


of Upwards of 2000 men. The 
assault took place at eleven at 
night, and uatil the Kiladar fell 
a determined resistance was made. 
Tipu’s camp that night was at 
Jigni, 6 m. to the S.W., and at 
nightfall he moved up within 
m. of the fort ; but the spirits 
of the assailants overcame all 
difficulties, and the fort w^as 
captured, after a severe struggle, 
in a few hours. 

In the centre of the fort is 
the arsenal, and there are some 
remains of Ttptt’s Palace. There 
is a small temple near the Mysore 
Gate. The ramparts of the walls 
deserve a visit. Outside the N.W. 
corner of the tort is the hne Vic- 
toria Hospital, maintained by tbr 
State. To the W. is the JMinto 
Ophthalmic Hospital 


m, to the E. of the Petta and 
fort is the Lalbagh, a most beau- 
tiful garden, said to have been 
laid out in the time of Hyder "All. 
There is a fine collection of tropical 
and sub - tropical plants, and a 
large collection of wild animals in 
cages. 

In consequence of the preval- 
ence of plague in Bangalore 
several modern extensions, with 
pretty isolated houses, small and 
large, have been built by the 
Mysore Government encourage- 
ment to the S.W., S.E., and N.W. 
of the city — viz., Chamarajapet, 
Basavangadi, Sankarapuram, and 
Malaswaran, and are well worth 
a visit as constituting a new and 
enlightened departure in India. 


ROUTE 32. 

BANGALORE to 

[a) FaUs of the Cauvery, Ser- 
tngapatam, and Mysore, 
and 

[h) Bowringpet (for Kolar 
Gold Fields), Jalarpat 
Junction, Vellore, Arcot, 
Arkonam J unction, Con- 
jeeveram, and Chingleput. 

{a) The Falls of the Cauvery, Serin- 
gapatam, and Mysore. 

46 m. S.W. Maddur station 
(R.) was formerly an important 
place, but suffered heavily during 
the wars with Tipu Sultan. There 
are tw'O large \''aishnava temples 
here, sacred to Narasimha Swami 
and Vara da Raja, the “ Man- 
Lion and the ‘ ' Boon - giving 
King.'" A fine brick bridge with 
seven arches, built in 1850, spans 
the Shimsha, on the right bank of 
wffiich the town is built. 

By road 17 m. S. is Malvalli, 
(D.B), headquarters of the Taluk 
of the same name, and a munici- 
pal town. The Mysore-Bangalore 
and Maddur- Sivasamudram roads 
cross at this place. On the 27th 
of March 1799 General Harris 
defeated the army of Tipu Sultan 
here, with a loss to the enemy of 
1000 men. On this occasion the 
left wing of the British w’-as com* 
manded by Colonel Wellesley, 
afterw'ards Duke of Wellington. 

12 m. S.W. of Malvalli is the 
village of Sonmathpur, * famous for 
the temple of Prasanna Channa 
Kesava. It is on the new direct 
road from Mysore to Sivasa- 
mudram, and may be visited en 
route from the old capital to the 
falls, if arrangements can be 

^ ^566 KergUihon’^ (nd. Arch.., i, 4^7 



ROUTE 32. 


c;iVA<^AMUDRA’\f 


51T 


made for that journey. The 
temple is an elaborately - carv^ed 
building, attributed to Jakana- 
charya, the famous sculptor and 
architect of the Ballala Kings. 
Smaller than the temple at 
Hallabid, it is perhaps more 
pleasing, as the three pyramidal 
towers or vimanas over the triple 
shrine are completely finished. 
The central shrine is that of 
Prasanna Channa Kesava, that 
on the S. is sacred to Gopala, and 
that on the N. to Janardhana. 
Round the outer base are carved 
with much spirit incidents from 
the I^amavana, the Mahabharata, 
and the Bhagaua. The end of 
each scene is indicated by a closed 
door. Around lie seventy-four 
mutilated statues, which once 
stood on the basement. There is 
a fine inscription at the entrance, 
which declares that the building 
was completed in 1270 by Soma, 
a high officer of the Ballala State 
and a member of the royal family. 
The vestibule is in ruins, and the 
images are more or less damaged. 
There are also the ruins of a large 
Saiva temple, with inscriptions. 

From Malvalli the road leads 
S. 12^ m. to 

30 m. Sivasamudram. 3 m. N. 
of the Cauvery the road turns ofi 
to the E,, and conducts to the 
Cauvery Falls Electric Power 
Station, beyond the Gangan Chaki 
Fall. The Cauvery divides into 
two branches, embracing the 
Sivasamudram Island, about | m. 
above the point where the main 
road reaches it. This island is 
connected with the left shore by 
an extremely picturesque bridge, 
built like that of Seringapatam. 
upon simple uprights of stone, at 
the farther end of which is situated 
the little R.H., near a small 
temple. The bridge was restored 
a wealthy Indian a hundred 
years ago. On the up-stream 
^ide of the bridge has been con- 
'^tructed the curved regulator from 


which the channel leading to the 
penstock chamber takes off on 
i the left. From the right bank 
the main road turns to the S. 
point of the island, where a 
I similar bridge, known as the 
, Kollegal Bridge, makes connection 
with the right shore in the Coim- 
I batore J .Us trie t. At this point 
i also is a regulator, by which the 
Avhole water of the stream can, if 
I necessary, be diverted into the 
I Western channel. 

The river, it should be noted, 

' makes a sharp turn above the 
head of the island, and flows from 
S. to N. past it, turning sharp to 
the E. again at the junction below 
, the Falls. These are known as 
the Bar Chaki Fall, on the right 
' arm, and the Gangan Chaki, on 
i the left arm ; the former is if m. 

I from the R.H., and the latter 
2f m The beds of both channels 
' have fine trees on the banks and 
, some trees on the various rock}^ 
islands in the middle of them, 
j which above the actual Falls are 
j quite large. The sheer height of 
I the Falls is 320 ft., but hardly 
any one of the many shoots into 
which they are divided has a clear 
' leap of anything like this distance. 

They are spread over a consider- 
I able face of rock, and in the case 
j of the Gangan Chaki (Western 
branch) and its Falls, curve round 
! considerably to the left front. 

, Both Falls are exceedingly beau- 
! tiful when a large mass of water 
' is going over them, and it is 
j difficult to say which excels in 
j picturesqueness. The foot of the 
! Bar Chaki Fall can be reached by 
I a long flight of slippery stone 
; steps. The descent to the Gangan 
I Chaki is possible on the W. bank 
I only. On the E, bank, in front 
, of it, are some Muhammadan 
! shrines. A cloud of spray con- 
I stantly rises from the pools below' 

' them, and at a distance may be 
observed overhanging the head of 
the Falls. The ordinary monsoon 
I discharge is 18,000 cubic ft. per 
i second, but the discharge of a 



5^2 ROUTE 32 . fff) RANGALORE 

high flood has been known to be 
200,000 cubic ft. The power oi 
the Falls is being utilised, as 
already explained, on the left 
bank, in front of the Gangan 
Chaki. The steel pipes, or pen- 
stocks, carry the water down a 
vertical height of 400 -ft. to the six 
generators, which are now (1917) 
able to deliver no less than 13,213 
electric h.p. at the end of the 
receiving Une, 93 m. distant, in 
the Kolar Gold Fields {p. 536) 
The whole cost of the scheme has 
been less than :^35o,ooo ; it was 
initiated by Sir Seshadri lyar, 
and was designed by Col. de 
Lotbiniere, R.E., C I.E., and is 
one of the most remarkable of 
modern developments in India. 

74 m. French Rocks station, so 
called from being the place where 
the French soldiers in the ser\dce 
of Hyder 'Ah and Tipu Sultan 
were stationed. The name of the 
place is properly Hirode (popula- 
tion 1922). The fort, 2882 ft. 
above the sea, is 3 m. N. of the 
railway station. 

77 m. from Bangalore is 
SERINGAPATAM station, situated 
inside the fort, which is built 
at the W. end of an island 3 m. 
long in the Cauvery River, 
2412 ft. above sea-level (popula- 
tion, including the suburb of 
Ganjam, 7457)- The name is 
derived from a temple of Vishnu 
Sri Rangam, which is of great 
celebrity, and of much higher 
antiquity than the city. 

Seringapatam ^ has a bad repu- 
tation for fever, and the night 
should not be passed there. By 
permission of the Darbar the hot 
hours of the day can be spent at the 
Darya Daulat Summer Palace If 
the train service is not convenient 
for going on to Mysore, 9 m. dis- 
tant, a carriage can be ordered 

^ An excellent account of the place, price 
one rupee, has been published by the station- 
master, V. C. Subbaraya Moodeliar, and 
also by the Rev. E W, Thompson, Mysore. 


TO MYSORE : seringapatam India 

' from there. In 1133 Kamanu- 
, jachari, the Vaishuava reformer, 

[ took refuge in Mysore from the 
j persecution of the Chola Raja, and 
j converted from the Jain faith 
! Vishnu Vardhana, a famous Raja 
I of the Hoysala Ballala dynasty 
j The royal convert gave him the 
j province of Ashtagrama, including 
I Seringapatam, over which he 
! appointed officers called Prabhurs 
I and Hebbars. In 1454 the Heb- 
’ bar Timmana obtained from the 
I Raja of Vijayanagar the govern - 
I ment of Seringapatam, with leave 
I to build a fort there. His desceii- 
j dants governed till the Raja of 
’ \djavanagar appointed a viceroy 
j with the title of Sri-Ranga-Rayal. 
j The last of these viceroys was 
Tirumala Raja, who in 1610 sur- 
' rendered his power to Raja 
' Wadiyar, the rising ruler of 
j Mysore ; after which Seringapa- 
I tarn became the capital of the 
! Mysore Rajas, and of Hyder and 
' Tipu, till the fort was stormed 
1 twice — viz., in 1792 and 1799 — 

* by British armies. After the 4th 
! of May 1799 Mysore became the 
capital. 

I The Fort stands at the M^estern 
I extremity of the island, the nor- 
j them, the longest, face being just 
1 a mile in extent. The breach by 
, which it was stormed on 4th May 
' 1799 Ues only a short distance to 
, the S.W. of the railway station, 
j beyond a ruined mosque. Oppo- 
site it on the S. shore are two 
cannons buried in the ground, 

I which mark the spot from which 
the assaulting column advanced. 

1 From this point the route round 
I the W, end of the defences should 
be followed, as it affords fine 
I views of the defences and of the 
! river. Just across the railway 
line on the N. side is the dungeon 
' in which the captives from Polilore 
, (see p. 547), including General 
1 Baird, were imprisoned. S. of 
[ this is the Sri Rangam Temple, 

' and considerably to the E., across 
I the open space which was once 



ROUTE 32. SKRINGAPATAM 


the Parade-ground, is the Ganga- 
deswar Temple, with the fragrant 
storehouse of State Sandal-wood 
to the S. of it, occupying the site 
of Tipu Sultan’s Palace. To the 
N E. of this IS the Water Gate, 
outside of which is a very pictur- 
esque enclosed space between 
walls with many stone idols and 
reliefs of serpents under banyan- 
trees. On the right of this space 
is the spot where Tipu Sultan fell, 
and outside it upon the river 
bank is a bridge over the fort 
ditch and a fine ghat built in 
memory of the late Maharaja. 
S.E of this point, and facing the 
Gan jam Gate, is the Ala (High) 
Masjid, with two lofty minarets, 
built m a style very different from 
any known in N. India. Outside, 
to the X.E. of the Ganjam Gate, 
IS the Darya Daulat Palace, and 
of it, at a distance of nearly 
a m., is the Lalbagh, with the 
mausoleum of Hyder ’Ali and 
Tipu Sultan. 

The following brief account of 
the Sieges of Seringapatam will 
be found interesting. Lord Corn- 
wallis had appeared before the 
place on 13th May 1791, after the 
capture of Bangalore, but was 
compelled b^^ the weather and 
want of supplies to fall back from 
it. In February 1792 the attack 
was made from the N.W. side of 
the fort from French Rocks, 
where an army of ig,ooo European 
and 29.000 Indian troops with 
400 guns and a large force of 
Mahratta and Hyderabad Cavalry 
had been assembled under Lord 
Cornwallis. In a night attack on 
bth February the town and camj^ 
on the N. side of the fort were 
taken, and the British force 
ucarh' penetrated into the fort 
with the fugitives who took refuge 
in it Trenches were then opened 
‘i^inst the place, and, General 
Abercrombie having arrived with ■ 
'looo additional troops from Bom- | 
Tipu Sultan wisely decided ; 
to submit, and did .so on 23rd | 
•April at the cost of surrendering ' 


:.33 

a very considerable pail oi his 
territories. 

The second siege commenced on 
17th April and ended on the 4th 
of May 1799, t\Ren Seringapatam 
was stormed. The forces under 
General Harris arrived before 
Seringapatam on 5th April, and 
were joined by the Bombay troops 
under General Stuart on the 14th. 
Outside the fort on fhe N. and S. 
of the Cauvery a “ bound hedge ” 
enclosed a large space. That on 
the N. was i m. to i-|- m deep by 
3 m long along the river, and was 
defended by six redoubts. Here 
Tipu had placed the camp of his 
army, consisting of 5000 cavalry 
and 40,000 to 50,000 infantry. 
The regular siege commenced on 
the 17th, and bv the 27th the 
enemy had been driven out of the 
whole outer line of defence. By 
the 3rd May a practicable breach 
had been made in the walls, and 
this was attacked by a strong force 
of 4331 men (2494 British and 
1887 Indian) under General Baird 
at 1 o’clock noon on the 4th. 
For some reason the defenders 
were taken by surprise, and the 
troops, having surmounted the 
outer wall within 7 m. of the 
commencement of the assault, 
turned right and left along the 
deep inner ditch, which some 
ffnally managed to pass. Tipu 
Sultan, who had hurriedly pro- 
ceeded to the point of the breach, 
found that these troops were 
getting between him and the inner 
^.lelenccs of the Palace, and there- 
fore fell back along the N. wall, 
seeking to regain the Palace from 
that side. In front of the inner 
wicket gate there he was severely 
wounded and placed inside a 
palanquin, but meanwhile the 
wicket had been seized by the 
besiegers, and it had become 
impossible to enter it. As he lay 
disabled outside it an European 
soldier attempted to snatch off iiib 
jewelled sword - belt, and, being 
wounded by th«' Sultan, shot him 
through the head. His two sons, 



534 ROUTE 32 , (a) BANGALORE 

who had been hostages with Lord 
Comwailis, and his family then 
surrendered, and next day the 
eldest son, Fateh Haidar, who 
was commanding a force outside 
the fort, surrendered also. The 
reserv'e on the occasion of the 
assault was commanded by Colonel 
Wellesley, who became Comman- 
dant of the place and the troops 
left in it. The evening after the 
assault was ushered in by a storm 
of extraordinary violence. Tipu 
Sultan was buried next day in the 
Lalbagh Mausoleum with military 
honours 

The island is connected with the 
N. bank of the Cauvery by the 
Wellesley Bridge, and with the S. 
bank by the Periapatam Bridge, 
both carried on stone uprights as 
at Sivasamudram. Just beyond 
the latter is a fine canal, and 
following the left bank of this to the 
W, a visitor passes along the outer 
portion occupied by the defenders 
and taken from them by the 
British forces in the siege of 1799 
Close to the bridge was Wallace's 
Post, captured on 26th April and 
held at first with some difficult’. 
Half a mile from it are the guns 
opposite the breach, and beyond 
these again is MacDonald’s Post. 
Just S. of the canal is a very 
sacred Hindu temple at a Sangam 
or junction of rivers. The island 
was evacuated on account of its 
unhealthiness in 1811. On it in 
the following year died the Diwan 
Purnaya, the famous Prime Minis- 
ter, who served with equal loyalty 
Hyder ’Ali, Tipu Sultan, and the 
British. 


The Darya Dauiat Bagh, a Sum- 
mer Palace of Tipu Sultan just 
outside the E. side of the fort, 
is distinguished for its graceful 
proportions and the arabesque 
work in rich colours which covers 
it. The W wall is painted with a 
representation of the victory ol 
Hvder ’Ali over Colonel Baillie at 
Pohlore, near Conjeeveram (see 


TO MYSORE : SERiNGAPATAM India 

I p. 547). It had been defaced 
j prior to the siege of 1799, but tne 
I Duke of Wellington, then Colonel 
' Arthur Wellesley, who made this 
j garden his residence, had it 
' restored. It was afterwards 
' whitewashed and almost obliter- 
ated, but Lord Dalhousie. having 
I visited the spot during his tour in 
; Mysore, ordered it to be repainted 
; by an Indian artist who remem- 
bered the original. The perspec- 
j tive IS very bad and the general 
j effect grotesque, but the painter 
: has succeeded in caricatunng the 
expression and attitude of the 
I British soldiers, and the French- 
' men are very lifelike. 

I 

Che Lalbagh is a garden 2 m. 

; E. of the fort on the other side 
! of the Ganjam suburb, which 
intervenes between it and the 
' Darya Dauiat. It contains the 
i mausoleum of Hyder ’AH and 
Tipu Sultan, a square building 
surmounte^_l by a dome, with 
. ijiinarets at the angles, and sur- 
rounded by a corridor which is 
I supported by pillars of black 
! hornblende, a stone that is re- 
markable for its beautiful polish. 
The double doors, inlaid with 
; ivory, were given by Lord Dal- 
; housie. Each of the tombs is 
1 covered with a crimson pall. The 
I whole is kept up by the Mysore 
I State. The tablet on Tipu’s 
! tomb is in verse to this effect- — 

; ‘ ‘ The hght of Islam and the faith 
j left the world : Tipu became a 
! martyr for the faith of Muham- 
mad : The sword was lost and the 
son of Hyder fell a noble martyr.” 

! The inscription gives the date 
; 1213 A.H. = i799 A.D. In front of 
the Lalbagh is a simple memorial 
' to Colonel Baillie, who died in 
I 1782, a prisoner of Tipu Sultan, 
i On the way to the garden, on 
( rising ground near the road, are 
j interesting memorials of the 
] officers and men of the 12th and 
j 74th Regiments killed in action 
1 in 1799. 



ROUTE 32. MYSORE— COORG — MERCARA 


m. from Bangalore is 
MYSORE station ^ (D.B. on N. 
side of town), the old capital of 
the State (population 71,306), 
situated at the N.W. base of 
Chamundi Hill, an isolated peak 
rising to 34S9 ft. above the sea. 
The city is built in a valley 
formed by two ridges running N. 
and S. The streets are broad and 
regular, and there are many sub- 
stantial houses two or three 
storeys high, witli terraced roofs 
The town has a neat and thriving 
look, and the sanitation has been 
much attended to by the munici- 
pality. The Mary Holdsworth 
Hospital is a fine building. To 
the E. lies the Summer Palace ; 
to the W. are the Public Offices, 
the fine College, with a statue of 
Sir James D. Gordon, and a new 
quarter similar to those at Banga- 
lore. S. of the town is the fort, 

<1 quadrangular, moated enclosure 
'>1 some 450 yds. ; in front oi it 
lies the Curzon Park. The foun- 
dation - stone of the Chhama 
Rajendra Institute was laid by 
King George, then Prince of M ales, 
on 30th January 1906. 

The Maharaja s Palace in the 
fort faces due E., and is built in 
the ultra-Hindu style. The front 
IS supported by four fantastically- 
carved wooden pillars The Sajje 
or Dasahara Hall is an open gallery 
where the Maharaja shows him- 
self to the people, seated on 
his throne, on great occasions. 
The throne is very remarkable. 
According to one account, it was 
presented to the ambassadors of 
Chikka Deva Raja in 1699 by 
the Emperor Aurangzeb (Wilks, 
I, 106} for their Prince. The 
Palace legend at jMysore is that it 
was originally the throne of the 
Pandus, and was found buried at 
Penikonda by the founders of the 
Vijayanagar Empire, Hakka or 
Hanhara and Bukka, who were 
told where it was by an ascetic 
It is at all events certain that it 
was used by Chikka Deva and 
his successors up to the time of 


535 

Tipu Sultan, that it was found 
m a lumber-room when Seringa- 
patam was taken by the British, 
and that it was employed at the 
coronation of the Raja to whom 
they conceded the government. 
It was originally of fig -wood 
overlaid with ivory, but after the 
restoration of the Raja the ivory 
was plated with gold and silver 
carved with Hindu mythological 
figures. The Palace has under- 
gone a thorough renovation, in 
which wood - carving and stone- 
carving in local porphyr}^ form a 
prominent part, and is one of the 
finest Indian buildings in India. 

Chamundi, the hill which over- 
looks Mysore, is 2 m. S.E. of the 
fort. It is precipitous, and rises 
to 3489 ft. above sea - level ; a 
fine path m. long leads to the 
top, on which is a temple. Human 
sacrifices were offered here until 
the time of Hyder "Ali. Two- 
thirds of the way up is a colossal 
figure of Nandi, the sacred bull of 
Siva, r6 ft. high, hewn out of the 
solid rock— a well -ex ecu ted work 
of the date of 1659 a.d. Cha- 
mundi is a title of the goddess 
Kali (see p. 107). About 10 m. 
from Mysore is the Krishnaraja 
Sagar, a large reservoir formed by 
a dam across the Kaveri and con- 
structed to store water for irriga- 
tion purposes, and to maintain a 
continuous flow of water at Sivasa- 
mudram for generating electric 
power. 

102 m. Nanjangud, 12 m. to the 
S., possesses a temple 385 ft. long 
by 160 ft. broad, supported by 
147 columns. It is one of the 
most sacred in jNIysore, and enjoys 
a Government grant of Rs.20,197. 
There is a celebrated car-festival 
here in March, which lasts three 
days, and is resorted to by 
thousands. 

Coorg', of which the capital town, 
Mercara, lies 75 m. W. of Mysore, 

IS reached b\' a motor service in 



53^ ROUTE 32 [b) BANGALORE TO CHINGLEPUT, MADRAS : VELLORE India 


about 6 hours. At Huusur (27 m , 
R.H.) are the headquarters of the 
breeding establishment of the 
famous Mysore bullocks. Near 
Fraserpet the N. branch of the 
Cauvery is crossed. Mercara has 
an old fort, which underwent a 
tamous siege by the Raja of Coorg 
in 1791. The country, w^hich had 
been overrun by Hyder 'Ali in 
1773, was cruelly ravaged bv Tipu 
Sultan in 1782 and 1785, and was 
resumed in 1834 at the request of 
the people. A Commissioner now 
administers the country (of which 
the Resident of Mysore is Chief 
Commissioner), and has one As- 
sistant under him. As far as pos- 
sible the Administration is on the 
old Indian lines. The area under 
coffee in Coorg is 43,636 acres. 

{b) Bangalore City to Jalarpat 
Junction, Arkonam Junction, 
and Chingleput. 


44 from Bangalore city is 
Bowringpet junction for the Kolar 
Cold Fields Railway (10 m ), and 
lor the Kqlar District Railv/ay. 
I he Gold Field (population 48,633) 
begins 8 m. from Bowringpet, and 
extends for several miles, present- 
ing a very busy appearance with 
Its numerous t^ll chimneys, mills, 
shaft-heads, buildings, and bunga- 
lows of all kinds. There are eight 
Companies ' at work on the Field, 
employing over 25,000 people’ 
including goo Anglo-Indians and 
Europeans. Since mining on 
modern principles was begun on 
the Field in 1883, the mines have 
yielded gold to the value of 
£33,000.000 sterling, and have paid 
dividends amounting to over 
£13,600,000. In June 1902 they 
were furnished with 4000 h.p. for 
purposes by the Cauver\- 
^alls Power Works, and this power 
since been increased to 9300 




87 m. Jalarpat junction of 
Madras Railway (p. 559). 

139 m. from Bangalore is 
Katpadi station (R.). 

From here a branch of the S. 
Indian Railway runs (i) S. past 
Vellore (6 m.) to (loo m.) Villu- 
puram junction for Pondicherry 
(P- 575) ; and (2) N. to (20 m.) 
Chittoor, Pakala, Tirupati (64 m ), 
and Renigunta (71 m.) (p. 478). 
At Chittoor (population 15,108^ 
now the headquarters of the 
Chittoor District, Hyder 'Ali died 
in December 1782. 

Vellore, the headquarters of 
the N. Arcot District (population 
49,746), is 4 m. S. of the railway 
station, on the opposite bank of 
the Palar River, which is spanned 
by a fine brick bridge. Jhatkas 
always meet the train. 

The Fort of Vellore dates from 
the end of the nth centur^v It 
was occupied by Narsingh Raja of 
Vijayanagar about 1500 a.d., and 
was the capital of IMurtaza Ah. 

The remarkable temple here 
is sacred to Jalagandar Iswara, 

‘ ' the god that dwells in water 
— i e., Siva. There are two dwar- 
pals at the entrance of the gopu- 
ram of blue granite. The door is 
very handsome, of wood studded 
v/ith bosses of iron like lotus 
flowers. The entrance under the 
gopuram is lined with pilasters 
ornamented with circular medal- 
lions containing groups of figures ; 
the gopuram has seven storeys, and 
is 100 ft. high. On the left of the 
gopuram inside is a stone pavilion, 
called the Kalyan JMandapatu, 
exquisitely carved. On either 
side of the steps ascending to the 
mandapam are pillars, which are 
monoliths, carved to represent 
various animals and monsters, one 
above another, in a way which 
shows prodigious labour and great 
skill In the portico or ante- 
chamber is a wonderfully-carved 
ceiling, with a centre-piece repre- 



ROUTE 32. VELLORE — WALAjAH ROAD 


53 : 


sentmg a fruit, round which 
parrots are clustered in a circle, 
hanging by their claws with their 
heads down towards the fruit ; 
the several richly - carved pillars 
of the interior are all different from 
each other. Mr Fergusson says,^ 
“ The great cornice with its double 
flexures and its little trellis- work 
of supports is not only very 
elegant in form, but one of those 
marvels of patient industry such 
as are to be found hardly any- 
where else. . . . The tradi- 

tions of the place assign the 
erection of the Vellore porch to 
the year 1350, and, though this 
IS perhaps being too precise, it 
IS not far from the truth A 
corridor runs round the enclosure, 
supported by ninety-one pillars, 
all with carvings on them. There 
IS a plain mandapam at each 
corner of the enclosure, corre- 
sponding to the Kalyan manda- 
pam. The inner temple is a dark, 
low building opposite thegopuram; 
it is entered from the N. side. 

The Vellore Mutiny in 1806 
(p. cxlvi) was due partly to certain 
grievances of the native soldiers 
then stationed there, and parth' 
to the intrigues of the members 
of the family of Tipu Sultan, 
then confined in the fort. The 
garrison consisted of 380 British 
soldiers of the 69th Regiment and 
1500 sepoys. On the morning of 
loth July the latter, led by the 
Indian officers, shot down the 
British officers as they issued^ from 
their residences, and" penned the 
men of the 69th in their barracks, 
where 82 were killed and 91 
wounded. Headed, however, by 
some officers who forced their way 
to them, they held their own until 
Colonel Gillespie galloped up from 
Arcot with a squadron of the 
19th Dragoons and a troop of 
the 7th Indian Cavalry. The 
mutineers were then attacked, 
350 of them killed.- The 

‘ ind, A>xh.^ I, 396. 

- Twenty more weic furinaliy executed iti 
\.triuus v\a>s 


I numbers of the two regiments 
' which mutinied (the ist battalion 
' of the ist Indian Infantry and 
I 2nd battahon of the 23rd Indian 
i Infantry) were removed from the 
I Army list. Wazir Ali, the deposed 
! Xawab Wazir of Oudh, who caused 
! IMr Cherry to be murdered at 
Benares in 1799 (p. 03), died at 
* Vellore in 1817 after eighteen 
years’ captivity in that place 
i and Fort William. 

In the old cemetery to the right 
I of the entrance to the fort is 
: a walled - in ' enclosure with a 
j low sarcophagus inscribed to the 
memory of Lieutenants Popham 
' and Eley and 80 soldiers of the 
I 69th Regiment, who fell during 
' the mutiny of 1806. 

! J m. to the W. of the fort are 
j the Tombs ofTipii Sultan s Family 
\ in a well-kept enclosure. Right 
j of the entrance is the tomb of 
Padshah Begam, wife of Tipu 
' Sultan, who died in 1834 a d. 

, The second tomb on the right is 
' that of Aftab Khan, who was 
, second instructor to the ladies 
i Then comes a handsome tank, 

' with stone embankment and steps. 

I X ext are two plain tombs of female 
I attendants, and then a handsome 
I granite pavilion with a massive 
i roof supported by four pillars ; 
j inside is a black marble tomb to 
Mirza Raza, who married one of 
i Tipu Sultan’s daughters. At the 
' end of these is the largest building 
[ of ali — a domed mausoleum, 20 ft. 

' sq., to the memory of Bakhshi 
I Begam, the widow of Hyder ’Ali, 
j who died in 1806 a.d. Left of 
j this IS a mosque without any 
I inscription, and beyond it scores 
i of plain gravestones and other 
: tombs of members of Tipu Sultan’s 
family and retiniK. 


I 134 m. from Jalarpat junction is 
! Walajah Koad junction for Ranipet 
i (4 m.) and Arcot {5 m.). The 
Palar River flows between these 
I two, and is crossed by a stone 
, causeway. 



538 ROUTE 32 . f6) BANGALORE TO CHINGLEPUT, MADRAS : ARCOT India 


Near Arcot (Arkat) a small 
pagoda is reached and portions of 
the town wall, which was a mas- 
sive structure of red brick. It 
was blown up with gunpowder, 
but the foundations remain, and 
huge fragments are seen, solid as 
rocks. I m. farther S.E., along 
the bank of the Palar, is the Delhi 
Gate, which is the only one that 
remains so far uninjured that it 
is possible to form an idea of what 
the fortification was. Above the 
gate is Clive's Room. A road from 
here leads S. into the heart of the 
old town, and in J m. to the Taluk 
Ciitchevvy — a pretty building 
erected in 1874. After passing 
this building and turning E., the 
broad moat, which surrounded the 
citadel and is now dry with trees 
growing in it, is passed. Here are 
two small tanks, which once had 
fountains in the centre, and near 
this is the Makhara^ or Tomb of 
ST adatullah Khan. In the same 
enclosure is the Jami Masjxd. 
The tomb has a stone inserted 
over the door with an inscription, 
which says that the Nawab died 
in 1733 A.D. 

W. of the Jami Mas j id is the 
ruined Palace of the Nawabs of the 
Carnatic, on a mound overlooking 
the large lake called the Nawab 's 
Tank. The walls of the darbar- 
room are still standing. Opposite 
is the Kala Masjid, or Black 
Mosque, and near the Palace is the 
tomb of a JMuhammadan ascetic, 
with a rather handsome dome. 
To the W. is the mosque of Fakir 
Muhammad. Near it is a tomb, 
apparently unfinished, in which 
was laid the body of the Nizam 
Nasir Jang, murdered by the 
Nawab of Cuddapah on 5th 
December 1750, till its removal to 
Hyderabad. Just across the road 
is the tomb of Tipu Auliya, of 
brick whitewashed. In the W. 
wall is a stone with an in- 
scription, which says that Sa’ada- 
tullah Khan erected this tomb 
for Tipu, who was a man 
of God. It was from this 


saint that Tipu Sultan got his 
name. 

History. 

When Zulfakar Khan, Aurang- 
zeb's General, took Gmgee in 1698 
A.D., he made Daud Khan Gover- 
nor of Arcot, under which District 
Gmgee was included, and thus 
officer colonised the place with 
Muhammadans. Until 1712 the 
Muhammadan Governors resided 
at Gingee, when Sa’adatullah Khan, 
who first took the title of Nawab 
of the Carnatic, made Arcot his 
capital Arcot, however, is chiefly 
known to us for the glorious 
capture and defence of it by 
Captain Clive, who here laid the 
foundation of his fame. When the 
French and Chanda Sahib ^ be- 
sieged Trichinopoly in 175I1 Clive 
led an expedition against Arcot in 
order to divert a part of the enemy 
from the siege. Clive had with 
him only 200 British, with eight 
officers, six of whom had never 
before been in action, together 
with 300 sepoys and three field- 
pieces. With this small force he 
left Madras on the 26th of August, 
and arrived at Conjeeveram on 
the 29th. Here he learned that 
the garrison of Arcot amounted to 
1 100 men. On the 31st he arrived 
within 10 m of Arcot, and 
marched on through a tremendous 
storm of thunder, lightning, and 
ram. The enemy's spies reported 
the Sfing-froid with which the 
English advanced in these cir- 
j cumstances, and this made such 
, an impression on the garrison 
! that they abandoned the fort, 
j On the 4th of September Clive 
i marched out against the garrison, 

’ which had taken up a position at 
; Timen, a fort 6 m. S. of Arcot. 

I 1 Chanda Sahib \v as Minister of Po.st Afi, 
!.ephev\ and successor of Sa’adatullah Khan, 
t He set himself up against Muhammad ’Ali, 
; son and successor of Anwar-ud-Jin, who was 
1 made Kawab of the Carnatic by the Nisam, 
1 and uho was supported by the English, and 
' subsequently received the title 01 Walajah 
! from tile Emperor of Delhi. 



ROUTE 32 

The enemy retreated to the hills, j 
and the English returned to the I 
fort, but marched out again a 
second time on the 6th, and drove 1 
the enemy from a tank near ! 
Timeri, where they had ensconced 
themselves. After ten days the 
enemy, who by reinforcements , 
had grown to 3000 men, encamped , 
within 3 m of Arcot, where they 
were attacked at 2 a.m. on the 
14th of September by Clive, and ; 
utterly routed. Two 1 8-pounders 1 
despatched from Madras had now 
nearly reached Clive, who sent 
out all the men he had, except 
30 Europeans and 50 sepoys, ; 
to bring them in. During this j 
emergency the enemy attacked ' 
the fort, but were signally J 
repulsed. Chanda Sahib now sent | 
4000 men from Tnchinopoly under I 
his son Raja Sahib, who entered j 
the town of Arcot on the 23rd of , 
September On the 24th Clive , 
sallied from the citadel and fought ! 
a desperate battle with Raja 
Sahib’s force. On the 25th Mur- 
taza ’Ali brought 2000 men more 
from Vellore to join Raja Sahib. 
Chve’s situation now^ appeared 
desperate : “ The fort was more 
than I m. in circumference ” 
[Orme, book 3, p. 19S) ; the , 
walls were in many places ruinous ; ^ 
the rampart too narrow to admit 
the firing of artillery ; the parapet 1 
low' and slightly built ; several oi j 
the tow'ers were decayed, and 
none of them capable of receiving 
more than one piece of cannon , 
the ditch was in most places 
fordable, in others dry, and in 
some choked up ; there was 
between the foot of the w^alls and i 
the ditch a space about 10 ft. 
broad, intended for a faussebrayc, 
but tins had no parapet at the 
scarp of the ditch. The fort had | 
two gates, one to the N.W., the 1 
other to the E , both of which were 1 
large piles of masonry project- ; 
mg 40 ft. beyond the w^alls, and ; 
the passage from these gates w^as, 
instead of a drawbridge, a large 
causeway crossmg the ditch. The 1 


ARCOT (history) 539 

garrison had from their arrival 
employed themselves indefatigably 
to remove and repair as many of 
these inconveniences and defects 
as the smallness of their numbers 
could attend to. They had en- 
deavoured to burn dowm several 
of the nearest houses, but w'ithout 
buccess ; for these, having no 
woodw'ork in their construction 
excepting the beams which sup- 
ported the ceiling, resisted the 
flames. Of these houses the 
enemy’s infantry took possession, 
and began to fire upon the ram- 
parts, and wounded several of 
the garrison before night, wdien 
they retired. At midnight Ensign 
Glass was sent wdth ten men and 
some barrels of gunpowMer to 
blow up two oi the houses which 
most annoyed the fort. This 
party were let down by ropes over 
the walls, and, entering the houses 
W'ithout being discovered, made 
the explosion, but with so little 
'^kill that it did not produce the 
intended effect ; at their return 
the rope by which Ensign Glass 
w'as getting into the fort broke, 
and he was by the fall rendered 
incapable of further duty ; so 
that, at the beginning ©f the siege, 
the garrison was deprived of the 
services of four of the eight olficers 
w'ho set out on the expedition, 
and the troops fit for duty w^ere 
diminished to 120 Europeans and 
200 sepoys. These were besieged 
by 150 Europeans, 2000 sepoys, 
3000 cavalry, and 500 peons. 
Lord Macaulay writes of w'hat 
followed : During fifty days the 
siege w'ent on. During fifty days 
the young captain maintained the 
defence w'ith a firmness, vigilance, 
and abihty which would have done 
lionour to the oldest marshal in 
Europe. The breach, how'ever, 
increased day by day. The garri- 
son began to feel the pressure 
of hunger. Under such circum- 
stances any troops, so scantily 
provided with officers, might have 
been expected to show signs oi 
insubordination ; and the danger 



5 |.u ROUTE 32. (6) BANGALORE TO CHINGLEPUT, MADRAS Ijldia 


was peculiarly great in a force 
composed of men differing widely 
from each other in extraction, 
colour, language, manners, and 
rehgion. But the devotion of the 
little band to its chief surpassed 
anything that is related of the 
Tenth Legion of Caesar or the 
Old Guard of Napoleon. The 
sepoys came to Clive, not to 
complain of their scanty fare, 
but to propose that all the gram 
should be given to the Europeans, 
who required more nourishment 
than the natives of Asia. The 
thin gruel, they said, which was 
strained away from the rice, would 
suffice for themselves History 
contains no more touching instance 
of military fidelity, or of the in- 
fluence of a commanding mind."* 

It was now that the gallantry 
of Clive’s defence so impressed the 
Mahratta leader, Morari Rao, who 
was at the head of 6000 men, that 
he declared that he had tilLthen 
never beheved that Englishmen 
could fight, but, seeing their spirit, 
was determined to help them, and 
he put his troops in motion This 
alarmed Raja Sahib, and he de- 
termmed to storm Arcot beiore 
succour could arrive. He chose 
the great day of the Muharram, 
and Clive, who was exhausted 
with fatigue, was roused by the 
shouts of the enemy rushing to 
the attack, and was instantly at 
his post. The struggle lasted 
about an hour ; 400 of the assail- 
ants were killed, while the garri- 
son lost 4 Europeans killed and 
2 sepoys wounded At 2 a.m. 
next morning the enemy aban- 
doned their camp, into which the 
garrison marched and brought off 
four guns, four mortars, and a 
large quantity of ammunition. 
Thus ended on the 15th November 
this famous siege, and Clive, being 
reinforced by Captain Kilpatrick, 
marched out on the 19th and took 
the Fort of Timeri, and a few days 

^ As a matte: ot iaci the hi.stor) the 
siege contains no such incident at all; the 
j^anison had ample bupphe^ up to the end. 


after defeated a force of 300 
French, 2000 horse, and 2500 
sepoys, with four guns, and took 
Arni, with Raja Sahib’s treasure 
and .baggage. 

In 1758 M. Lally got possession 
of the Fort of Arcot by bribing 
the native commandant ; but in 
1760 it was recaptured from the 
French by Colonel Coote In 1780 
Hyder ’Ah, after his victory at 
Conjeeveram over Colonel Baillic, 
made himself master of Arcot, and 
strengthened the fortifications, 
but Tipu Sultan abandoned it 
in 1783. Subsequently (1803) it 
passed into the hands of the 
British from the Nawabs of the 
Carnatic. 

The line from Arcot to Madras 
was the first railway in the Presi- 
dency, and was opened in 1S56. 

177 m. from Jalarpat junction is 
Arkonam junction, 43 m. from 
Madras (p. 478). 

194 m. Conjeeveram [Kanchi- 
pttrani, the Golden City, the 
Benares of S. India) (population 
53,864), on the branch line between 
Chingleput and Arkonam, about 
50 m S W. of Madras, is one of the 
oldest towms of India, and one 
of its seven sacred places. The 
trains are very inconvenient. 
There is a two-roomed travellers 
bungalow at Conjeeveram : the 
furniture, however is insufficient 
and arrangements must be made 
for food. On the other hand, it is 
a very pleasant day’s trip in a 
motor from ^ladras to Conjeev- 
eram, thence to Chingleput, and 
back to Madras. Inscriptions re- 
cently deciphered show the town 
to have occupied a position of 
considerable influence before the 
Christian era. In the 5th century 
B c. Gautama is said to have con- 
verted the people of Kanchipuram 
and in the 3rd century b.c. Asoka 
IS said to have built many Bud- 
dhist topes in the neighbourhood, 
Liiough none now remain. In the 



ROUTE 32. CONJEEVERAM 


ibt century a.d. a powerful race of 
Kings ruled in the Southern Dec* 
can, building forts and Palaces in 
the basin of the Palar, and carrying 
on an extensive commerce both 
with West and East. The Pallava 
Kings were from the earliest 
historical times renowned for 
their learning and skill in war ; 
they bestowed liberal patronage 
on learning and architectural 
arts. As the capital city of the 
Pallavas, Conjee veram is famous 
in ancient Indian history. The 
tourist and antiquarian cannot 
fail to be struck by the number and 
beauty of its temples The larger 
Dravidian temples (of compara- 
tively recent date) are at the 
present time the most conspicuous 
objects ; but the special attractions 
are the Pallava temples, which arc 
among the oldest known examples 
ot S. Indian Hindu architecture 
The most important of the 
group of Pallava structure is the 
Pailasanatha Temple, one of the 
most remarkable architectural 
monuments, alike for the extent 
and beauty of its sculptures ; it 
stands in the fields some distance 
to the W. of the town For a S 
Indian temple its plan is somewhat 
pecuhar. It is comprised in a 
large and a small courtyard, with 
a central group of shrines placed 
towards the W. extremity of 
the large one. The central shrine 
is surmounted by a lofty pyra* 
midal tower. The entrance to 
the central vimana is from the 
E. and N. At each comer, and | 
on the N., S., and W. sides, is a j 
shrine. Each of these shnnes and ' 
the porch have a smaller tower, 
which rises up to and is grouped 
alongside the greater one. Near 
the base at each corner and face, 
between the projecting shrines, a 
large Nandi (sacred bull) is placed 
on the ground. 

On each side of the large court 
there is a continuous series of 
cells, each with a small tower and 
sikhara over it. This peculiarity 
of the group of cells ranged along 


.541 

I each side of the courtyard has 
j given rise to a belief that this 
I must originally have been a Jain 
I temple ; but in the great wealth 
of sculpture represented there is 
not a single figure which could 
be called Jain. These cells were 
originally occupied, not by devo- 
tees, but by hngas, each with a 
separate name and representing 
a different manifestation of Siva 
The inscriptions on the face of 
each are mostly in an early palaeo- 
graphical form of grantha char- 
acter. A notable peculiarity is 
the scrolled foliation attached to 
letters of these inscriptions. The 
latter give either the names of the 
different lingas or the titles of 
Kings who erected the building. 
The sikharas on these cells origin- 
ally stood with their summits 
appearing above the wall-head of 
the court, with elephants and 
M \ndis plac-ed alternately on the 
\vall-head between them. But 
at the present day the modern 
owners of the building have 
blocked up the spaces between 
these sikharas with masonry com-, 
posed of stone, brickwork, and 
mud, so that the outside of the 
court forms a continuous line of 
dead wall. The superincumbent 
weight of this additional masonry 
has caused large gaps and cracks 
in several parts of the walls on 
which it is placed. The cell 
towers show on the inside of the 
courtyard wail. On the N. and 
S. sides of this court the cells 
directly opposite the central 
vimanas are larger than the others, 
and have higher towers over them. 

In front of the large central 
shrine to the E. is the mahaman- 
dapam. It originally stood de- 
tached from the central shrine, 
but now it is found joined to the 
shrine by the ardhamandapam. 

Between these two mandapams 
IS a perforated stone window. 
The mahamandapam has massive 
piers, on one of which there is 
an inscription saying that King 
Vikramaditya made a grant to 



542 ROUTE 32 . (b) BANGALORE TO CHINGLEPUT, MADRAS India 


the temple. The piers in the 
ardhamandapam are different. 
Those in the latter are widely- 
spaced, slender columns, and are 
of a later structure, evidently 
built in the time of the later 
Vijayanagar Kings. 

A wall stands between the large 
and the small courts, and a small [ 
temple stands in a line with the | 
centre of this wall. On either side 
of this temple there are doors 
which serve as entrances from the 
one court to the other. Ranged 
along the E. face of the small 
court are eight small shrines, each 
with a tower over it. These 
shrines deserve careful study. 
They closely resemble in design 
the raths of Mamallapuram. The 
spaces between these are now 
filled with rubble work, blocking 
up the sculptured panels on the 
sides. 

To the E. of the temple stands 
the nandi mandapam. The base- 
ment only remains. There are 
four yali piers at each corner. 
It must have had a roof, but now 
.there are no traces of it. 

At the E. elevation of the temple 
there are eight small shrines 
standing in a row from N. to S. 
on each side of the E. entrance. 
Evidently the work is incomplete. 
Each of these shnnes is called a 
rath. That on the extreme left 
stands completely detached from 
the rest. It is in shape a square, 
and has carved figures of Siva and 
Parvati in a sitting posture on 
the back. On the exterior wall 
are the yalis, partly carv^ed, each 
yali supporting a pilaster with 
moulded caps over. On the back 
and sides are rough blocks and 
panels. Between these panel 
spaces and the comer yalis are 
small pilasters. 

The small platform in front has 
yali piers, whose capitals only are 
complete ; there are traces of 
carved floral ornaments on the 
cornices, and a series of small 
mouldings with carved projections 
at intervals ; the octagonal-domed 


sikhara has carved pedimental 
ornaments on each side. 

• The rath to the right of the last 
is more complete, as is evident 
from the fact that the yalis on the 
piers and the dwarpals on each 
side of the door panels on the 
exterior of the walls are all carved. 
Siva is seated under a tree with 
long, matted hair and a naga, or 
serpent, on his left. 

The doorway to the E. court has 
yalis at the corners, pilasters on 
the angles of the doors, and a 
cornice over it. Above the cor- 
nice is an upright portion of wall 
rising above the court walls on 
either side. In the centre of this 
is a panel with Siva and Parvati 
and attendants- 

Brahma and Vishnu are shown 
worshipping them. The other 
raths are more or less of the same 
type. The yalis of each of the 
! raths difler, some having tusks 
I and twisted trunks. The inscrip- 
I tions on the granite portion of 
: the raths — some in Pallava graniha 
I character — also deserve careful 
I study. The panel on the Northern 
j side of the last rath has a standing 
figure of Siva with matted hair, 
two hands, and a serpent over 
his shoulder. Over the panelled 
niche in which the figures stand is 
a floral pedimental ornament only 
partly car\"ed. The central por- 
tion shows representations of two 
yaks with a drooping floral orna- 
ment on each side — a thing very 
common on most of the niches in 
the temple. 

The sculpture on the back of 
the successive raths should be 
noticed. Behind the back of the 
rath on the extreme N. is Siva on 
I an elephant, with the death-noose 
I in his left, the trident in his lower 
: right hand, and a naga in the 
lower left, and his right foot 
uplifted on the elephant’s head. 
He is represented as stripping the 
elephant’s skin, which he waves 
aloft in his two upper hands. 

T^ere is a group of posed female 
figures on some of the small panels, 



ROUTE 32. 


CONJEEVERAM 


543 


and on the back of the sixth rath 
is a chariot drawn by two horses, 
with the hgure of Siva in a boon- 
conf erring attitude. 

In the large courtyard there 
are twenty-two pilasters placed 
at regular intervals on its N. 
exterior side. Each pilaster has a 
yah, with rider seated on reverse 
sides, at each alternate bay 

On the W. exterior side, m the 
entrance, is a gateway with a small 
tower. An elephant and |an- 
dharva are seated on the wall-head, 
and an upper central panel has 
Siva seated with his hand across 
liis knees. On this facade of the 
court wall there are five yah 
pilasters on either side of the 
central doorway. The S. exterior 
side is spaced by similar pilasters 
sikharas, elephants, and Xandi^ 
are exposed to view here. 

In the small court on the 
interior side of the small wall the 
sculptures are all figures of Siva 
in different postures The most 
noticeable sculpture is that on the 
large panel to the right. It has 
a group of twelve sages, evidently 
listening to the exhortations of 
Siva, who is seated under a 
banyan-tree in a panel opposite 
this one on the S. side wall of the 
central shrine m this court. On 
another large panel eleven seated 
sages are similarly listening to 
Siva, armed with different sym- 
bohcal weapons, and seeming to 
preach war. 

The next shrine of this temple 
to be observed is the small one in 
the centre of the wall dividing the 
lesser and larger courts. This is 
at present known as the Narad a I 
Linga Shrine. The lower bases ! 
have two courses of granite, over | 
them a freestone course ; gan- i 
dharvas are sculptured on this 
third course. They have their 
hands raised over their heads with 
the palms of their hands flattened 
against the moulding above, as if 
they were intended to be shown ■ 
as supporting the building. j 

In the exterior of the porch on j 


I the right side is a row of hansa, 
\ or sacred swans. The panel oppo- 
site the last on the inner side ol 
the porch has a large finely-carved 
figure of Siva, with matted hair 
and his right knee bent ; he has 
a richly-carved crown, and orna- 
ments on the neck, arm, and leg. 
Over his left shoulder is a garland 
I of (apparently) bones Another 
has alternate square and round 
ornaments, on each of which is 
a sculptured skull. The details 
of this panel are remarkably 
I striking in the arrangement and 
execution of the whole design. 

' even the smallest ornaments being 
I clearly and beautifully cut. 
j The exterior of this shrine is 
I again full of sculptures — all repre- 
! sentations of Siva. The features 
of all these figures have a marked 
form of countenance. The noses 
are pointed and flat, and give a 
curious expression to the face, and 
it is believed that they represent 
kuvumbars, common among some 
of the tribes in early times in this 
country. 

The mahamandapam , in the 
central portion^of the large court, 
has some strikingly archaic details. 
It has massive stone piers, with 
heavy square capitals and inscrip- 
tions on them of a later date. 
The piers are without bases. The 
capitals are of one design through- 
out — square with great projection. 
Several have circular lotus discs 
carved on the faces of the lowxr 
and upper square portions. These 
were evidently intended to sup- 
port some great overhead weight. 
The perforated window w^hich 
leads into the mahamandapam is 
much older than the building in 
which it now is, and is of black 
stone. The perforated work is a 
series of twisting boughs with 
openings between partly filled by 
cross-buds. Over the opening is 
a triple comice with horse-shoe- 
shaped panel ; in it is a figure of 
Siva with eight arms. On the 
circumference of the panel is a 
leaf ornament springing from 



544 ROUTE 32 . (b) BANGALORE TO CHINGLEPUT, MADRAS India 


yalis at the foot The sculptures 
at different elr rations of the 
mandapam are mostly figures of 
Parvati in difftrent postures. In 
the lower right panel of the S. 
elevation is the figure of Lakshmi 
seated on a lotus flower, holding 
lotus buds, conch, and Chakra. 
In the pier of the minor panels | 
on each side are chaxiris, ele* 
phants, gandharvas, and attend- 
ants. Some of the walls are quite 
plain, without ornaments of any 
kind. 

Adjoining is the vimana, with 
the principal shrine in the centre. 
Around the vimana, and in the 
recess formed by the projecting 
exterior shrines, are a series of 
Nandis placed on the ground and 
facing the different quarters. At 
each of the corners formed by the 
projecting shrines, and extending 
around the vimana, are senes of 
triple yalis and riders, intended to 
represent a support and guard to 
the temple. The figures sculp- 
tured on the exterior ground 
storey of the vimana are again 
representations of Siva, Brahma 
and Vishnu worshi|)ping him. and 
of Parvati. 

The general elevation of the 
superstructure is a small tower 
over each of the exterior shrines 
at the corners and facades. The 
sikharas over the shrines at the 
corners are square, and over those 
on the facades are semi - barrel 
shaped. Above those on the main 
tower is a storey with a senes 
of two weather-worn sculptured 
panels on each face of the central 
projection, and one at each comer. 
Over this is a double cornice with 
small sikharas ; the storeys above 
are successively stepped back, 
forming a shght platform between 
each. The tower is capped by 
an octagonal sikhara with small 
pediment on each front. ’ The 
whole tower is plastered over, and 
the plaster faithfully represents j 
the underlying stone work, but | 
the plaster work is much coarser I 
in execution. The stone carvings j 


j arc without exception bcautifull\ 
and minutely chiselled. 

’ The Vaikunta Perumal Temple 
is one of the eighteen important 
i \'ishnu temples of Conjeeveram 
where ^worship is still conducted. 

! It stands about three furlongs 
S.W. from the railway station, and 
almost due E. from the Kailasa- 
natha temple. The most impor- 
tant and interesting feature is the 
building of the vimana tower, 

I wh^h has tiers of three shrines 
j one over the other, with figures 
j of Vishnu in each shrine. The 
sculptures on the different sides 
of the vimana represent scenes 
irom the Puranas. 

There are two co^xred Piakaras 
of the shrine, and the courtyard 
has a covered veranda on the 
four sides. As usual, the shrine 
IS entered from the E. and through 
an ardhamandapam, with its eight 
yah piers and tour pilasters and 
sculptured panels. On the E. 
bide of the courtyard the niaha- 
mandapam is entirely roofed over 
the unfinished gopuram built by 
j the later Vijayanagar Kings. 

There are figures on the right 
and left side of the entrance 
gopuram, exhibiting the same 
j abundance of detail and sculpture 
seen in the Kailasanath temple. 
The design again has been well 
thought out and systematically 
expressed m stone to produce an 
architectural effect. 

S.W. from this temple, and 
at a httle distance, stands the 
Matangeswara Temple, right in 
the midst of fields. Its plan is 
simple — a small shrine with mas- 
sive walls and entrance through a 
pillared porch ; there is a simi- 
larity between this and the 
Kailasanath tower. 

The tower over the shrine is 
hollow. It is square and built 
in three storeys. The pillars at 
the porch are distinctly of the 
Pallava type. Each has a lion 
base, the tail of the lion being 
curved up the back of the pillar. 
Over the lion is an ornamental 



ROUTE 32. 

band WTtli polygonal-sided neck- 
ing, large projecting capital, and 
a square abacus over. 

The back of the porch has 
pilasters responding to detached 
piers with figured panels on each 
bide. The pilasters at the corners 
have yaks and riders. The N. 
and the E. walls have Saivite 
figures and sculptured panels 
between the pilasters. 

Oi the latter Dravidian tem- 
ples, the most important is that 
ol Svi Devaraja Swami at Little 
Conjeeveram, about 2 m from the 
lailway station. The street at 
the E. extremity of which this 
temple is situated is one of the 
features of the town. The tower 
and the outer high walls enclosing 
the temple appear quite modern. 
One of the most ancient at Con- 
jeeveram, the building has been 
renovated within the last four 
hundred years, and looks quite 
modern. The tower is about 
loo ft. high, and has seven storeys. 
It contains no figures or repre- 
sentations of Hindu deities. The 
original builders apparently in- 
tended to build it higher than it 
is. The tower at the E extremity 
of the temple, just opposite the 
one at the mam entrance, is higher 
than the latter, and evidently 
more ancient. Until a few cen- 
turies ago the E, tower was the 
Iront one, the idol of the temple 
faced E., and the town extended 
to the E. of the temple in the 
part now deserted. There are j 
f^-nks adjoining the towers. ; 
riiese are fine structures nearh^ 
squared, with sides sloping to the 
bottom in gradual rows of cut 
granite steps. The tank at the E. | 
tower is much the older. i 

Within the first courtyard are , 
tne singularly beautiful pavilions, [ 
with painted roofs resting on ; 
four tali, slender pillars. These 
3 -re situated in front of the flag- ■ 
staff and a monolith column of ' 
granite intended as a lighting- 
place. The remarkable Hall of 
Pillars, to the N. of the manda- 


CONJEEVERAM 545 

j pams, IS one oi tiie beauties of 
i S. India, and deserves careful 
j observation. It is a w’ork of con- 
j siderable merit : the execution 
; and finish of the sculptures are 
I iij^st attractive. The mandapam 
I has often felt the rude shock of* 
I wars, and hence the figures are 
slightly mutilated, apparently by 
j shot and sword. The sacrilege is 
I ascribed to Muhammadan inva- 
I ders, and to Hyder in particular. 

! The hall has ninety-six pillars, 

I carved at the base into horsemen 
; and hippognfis. The carvings on 
i the pillars are mainly illustrations 
I of the Avatars of Vishnu and 
I incidents mentioned in the Rama- 
1 yana and Mahahharaia . There 
j are a few lay - figures of great 
! interest. In the fourth pillar from 
: the W., at the N. extremity, facing 
! the tank, there is a figure of a 
Rajput warrior with a gun in his 
hand. At the top oi this piUar 
there is a grotesque figure of the 
god of death. Each of the corner 
stones on the roof of the hall is a 
monolith of great size. Not only 
i are parrots, snakes, etc., sculp- 
i ture(J on the top, but a chain is also 
' cut which originally hung down 
I nine feet. The story is told 
I that Hyder wanted to try the 
I strength of his sword and cut 
I them to pieces. The chains are 
. now connected together by iron 
i rings. 

I Into the second court non- 
Hindus are not permitted to 
enter. The vehicles, or vahanams, 
on which the idol is carried in 
procession on the occasion of the 
grand festival in May of every 
year are of great Meauty and 
colossal in appearance. This 
temple is also famous for its 
umbrellas. A pair of the largest 
and the best of these cost Rs 750. 
The jewels of this temple are not 
so valuable as those in Tirupati or 
Sri Rangam, but the workmanship 
is of a very superior order. At 
this temple there is a periodical 
recitation of the Vedas by the 
Aiyangar Brahmans of this place. 



India 


546 ROUTE 32. {h) BANGALORE TO CHlNGLEPUt, MADRAS 


On the occasion of a grand festival 
so many as 1000 congregate for 
its recitation. 

About 3 m. from this temple 
due N.W. is the famous Siva 
shrine of Ekanibaranath, in |he 
larger Conjeeveram. The route 
between the two towns is studded 
with a number of important tem- 
ples — a few dedicated to Vishnu 
and a large number to Siva. In 
and around Conjeeveram there 
are said to be a thousand temples 
and ten thousand lingams About 
I m. from the Vishnu Conjeeve- 
ram is the magnificently - carved 
wooden car, very high, with 
massive wooden wheels. In 
Hodgsonpet the cloth bazars have 
the silk - bordered clothes for 
which Conjeeveram has always 
been famous.. The chief street of 
Conjeeveram leads to Ekambares- 
wara Temple, which has a sixteen - 
pillar ynandapam in front of it. 
It is quite a modern structure. To 
the N. of this ynandapam is the 
main tower of the temple — a 
massive structure 188 ft. high, 
divided into ten storeys. It was 
built by Krishna Devaraja of 
Vijayanagar in 1509. From the 
topmost storey a grand view is 
obtainable of the whole town and 
its surroundings. No two towers 
of the temple are opposite 
each other, no two walls of the 
temple are parallel, and there is 
hardly a right angle in the place. 
All these create a picturesque 
effect seldom surpassed, though 
they lack considerably in dignity. 
Through the gateway a large 
open space is entered, to the left 
of which is the ‘ ‘ Hall of a Thou- 
sand Pillars ” (really 540) ; most 
of the columns are beautifully 
carved and support richly-decor- 
ated friezes. In the centre of the 
hall are a number of grotesque 
wooden figures, which are taken 
out on occasions of processions. 
Into the interior of the temple 
none but caste Hindus are allowed 
to enter. The whole building is 
being renovated, and the present 


builders have left not a vestige of 
the former building to show that 
it is an ancient institution. The 
modem structure has stately 
halls and imposing corridors, well 
ventilated. 

This temple has often felt the 
shock of war, and was sometimes 
used as barracks and hpspital. 
It served as a fort for some years 
during the Carnatic wars, and was 
attacked by Hyder. From this 
building Sir Hector Munro re- 
treated to Chingleput on hearing 
of Baillie’s defeat by Hyder a 
few miles to the N.W, To the 
S. of this temple, and on the 
outskirts of the town, is the 
Sarvatirtham Tank — the finest 
of all in Conjeeveram. It is the 
only tank in the town which 
has anything like decently clean 
water. Its four sides are studded 
with little pagodas. It*is greatly 
frequented by bathers and wor- 
shippers. 

About five furlongs from this 
tank is the temple dedicated to 
Kaynakshi, the “ Loving - eyed ” 
Parvati The consort of Siva is 
worshipped in Kasi under the 
name of the “ Broad -eyed,” in 
Madura as the ” Fish - eyed,' 
and at Conjeeveram by the name 
of Kaynaksin, This ancient tem- 
ple is believed to contain the 
samadhi of Sri Sankara. About 
2 m. from the borders of tlie town 
IS a famous Jain temple in the 
village on the bank of a river. Its 
florid architecture and the sculp- 
ture in the cloistered court which 
surrounds it are worth seeing. 

At the Conjeeveram temples, 
and at nearly all the temples m 
the Madras Presidency, the jewels 
of the gods will be shown if desired, 
and a dance of the temple dancing- 
girls can be seen.^ A present is, 
of course, expected in both in- 
stances — Rs.5 to Rs.15. 2 m. S. of 
Conjeeveram is a highly -decorated 
Jam temple of the Chola era. 

^ Known as Devadasis — that is, consecrated 
to the god. 



ROUTE 33. MADRAS — HISTORY 

In 1780, at Poliiore, N.W. 
of Conjeeveram, Colonel Baillie's 
force was cut to pieces by H^der 
'All, and Sir Hector IMunro, the 
victor of Buxar (p. 47), who had 


547 

failed to support him, threw his 
guns and baggage into the temple 
tank on his retreat to Chingleput. 


216 m. Chingleput (p. 572). 


ROUTE 33— madras CITY AND ENVIRONS. 


CONTtNTS. 


Agncuiture, College of 
Arsenal 

Hoard of Revenue Offices 
Cathedrals — 

Roman Catholic 
St George's 

San Thome Roman Catholic 
Central Railway Station , 
Chepauk Park and Buildings 
Churches — 

Armenian 

,, Cleat JMount 


['AOF 

556 

55” 

54V 


556 

550 

554 

549 


Institutions, Lducaiional, etc. — conid. 
Pachiappa ?> College and Hall 
Piesidency College 
School of Arts 
Teachers College . 

Veterinary Hospital 
Island 

Landing-place . 

Lighthouse 
Little Mount 
^larina Promenade . 

Marnialong Bridge 
Memorial Hall . 


St Andrew’s ..... 

555 

Mount Road 



St Mary’s ..... 

551 

Museum Ar.senal 


552 

St Alatthias , Vepery 

555 

,, Pantheon Road . 



San Thom^ ..... 

557 

Mylapore ..... 


550 

Connemara Public Library 

555 

Observatory^ .... 


556 

tort St George ..... 

550 

People’s Park .... 



General Hospital .... 

554 

Race-course, Guindy 


558 

George Town 

552 

Railway Stations — 



Government House .... 

549 

Central 


554 

Governor’s Country House, Guindy 

557 

Egmore (S. India R.) 


555 

Harbour Works .... 


Saidapet ..... 


556 

High Court Buildings 

5V2 

St Thomas’s Mount . 


558 

Horticultural Gardens 

556 

Senate House .... 


550 

Hospitals — 


Statues — 



Caste and Gosha .... 


Queen-Empress Victoria 


550 

General 

554 

King-Emperor Edw’ard VI J. 


549 

Maternity ..... 

555 

Lord Coinwallis 


551 

Ophthalmic ..... 

555 

Sir Thomas Munro 


549 

Institutions, Educational, etc. — 


Brigadiei -General Neill 


548 

Christian College .... 

551 

Hr Miller .... 


552 

Civil Engineering College 

549 

Sir Muthuswamy I) er . 


552 

Law' College 

552 

Triplicane 


550 

Medical College .... 

554 

Victoria Public Hall 


554 

Old College 

556 








• 




.552 

549 

555 

556 
556 
549 
552 
552 
556 


1032 m. Madras — Central Station. 

Madras. 4^ — Capital of the 
Madras Presidency of India. Lat. 
13"* 4', long. 80® 14' 54" E. 


History. 

Madras w'as the site of the 
earliest important Settlement of 
the original East India Company, 



ROUTE 33. MADRAS CITY AND ENVIRONS 


India 


54S 

to which Queen Elizabeth granted 
a charter, and was founded from 
the station of Armagaum {which 
lay N. of Pulicat, itself 25 m, N. 
of Madras), in 1639 by Francis 
Day, on territory given by the 
deputy of the Raja of Chandragiri, 
the last representative of the 
Vijayanagar Royal family, and 
confirmed by the Raja six years 
later by a grant inscribed on a 
plate of gold. Little could the 
Muhammadan Kings who drove 
out the dynasty of Vijayanagar 
in 1565 have supposed that within 
sixty-five years a scion of the 
exiled family would grant terri- 
tory to another conquering race 
destined to acquire supremacy 
over all India. A small Fort was 
at once erected in the settlement, 
which was known as Chennapat- 
nam, and a town named the Black 
Town, now George Town, arose 
X. of it. In 1683 the settlement' 
was made independent of that of 
Bantam (founded in 1602), and; 
Mr Aaron Baker was appointed 
its first President, and by 1 667 the 
population had grown to nearly 
30,000. The iMadras Municipal 
Corporation is the oldest Corpora- 
tion in India. It was constituted 
on 29th September 1688 under a 
charter issued under the orders of 
His Majesty James II. under the 
East India Company’s seal on 
30th December 1687. The charter 
constituted the “ Town of Fort 
St George and all the Territories 
thereunto belonging, not exceeding 
the distance of lo m. from Fort 
St George to be a Corporation by 
the name and title of the Mayor, 
Aldermen, and Burgesses of the 
Town of Fort St George and City 
of Madrassapatam." The consti- 
tution underwent alteration from 
time to time, and the last altera- 
tion was inade by the Madras 
Cijy Municipal Act, 1904. The 
principal Governors in the 17th 
^ centuries were Sir 

William Lahghome (1670 - 8), 
EUhu Yale (1687-gi), pitt (1730- 
^735). and Pigot, subsequently 


Lord Pigot (1755-63 and 1775), 
who was deposed by his Council 
; and died in durance ; and in 
the 19th century, Lord Clive, 
Lord William Bentinck, and Sir 
Thomas Munro. Warren Hast- 
I ings was a member of the Madras 
1 Council from 1769 to 1772. Its 
I subsequent history till the end of 
( the 19th century has for the most 
; part been part of that of the Fort 
I (p. 550) and the Presidency. The 
! Chamber of Commerce was con- 
, stituted in 1836- The Munici- 
j pal Corporation now consists of 
. thirty-six commissioners, of whom 
I twenty are elected under a Prcsi- 
■ dent appointed by Government, 

: being created in 1904, The popu- 
lation of the city, comprised 
518,660 bouls, made up of 415,910 
! Hindus, 59,169 Muhammadans, 

! and 41,812 Christians. The m- 
j come of the Municipal Corporation 
I IS about 28 lakhs per annum. 

1 About 620 vessels with a tonnage 
! of one million tons, enter the Port 
vearly ; the Port 'Trust has an in- 
come of ^100,000. The value of 
the exports was, before the War, 
millions of pounds, and of the 
imports 7 millions. A dozen 
mills employ 19,000 hands. The 
city has been one of the first in 
India to introduce electric trarn- 
ways. The present Governor is 
the Right Hon. John Baron 
Pentland of Lyth, P.C., G.C.I.E. 

The centre of Madras, for all the 
purposes of a visitor, is Mount 
Koad, on or near w'hich most of 
the principal hotels and shops 
are situated. Half-way between 
Government House, situated on 
the Cooum River, at the N.E. end 
of the road, and St George's 
Cathedral and the Horticultural 
Gardens lying at the S.W. end, 
the Madras Club, and in front of 
it a statue of Brigadier-General 
Xeill, C.B., Aide-de-Camp to the 
Queen, who ‘‘ fell gloriously at the 
relief of Lucknow, 25th September 
1857, aged 47 " (p. 393). Oppo- 
site Government House is a statue 






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ROUTE 3^. GOVERNMENT HOUSE. MADRAS 


5|0 


'>f King Edward VII , by Mr G. E 
Wade, presented to the city by 
Lod Krishnadas Balmukandas, 
and unveiled m 1903. 

It IS intended that the memorial 
oI th- late King-Emperor shall take 
the torm of a Sanatorium and 
Hospital for consumptive patients, 
but it is not decided yet where this 
building should be erected. 

Goremment House (admission 
usually granted when the Gover- 
nor is not in residence) has in the 
breakfa.st-room a picture of the 
installation of Nawab Ghulam 
Muhammad Ghaus Khan, under 
the Governorship of Lord Klphin- 
Ntone, with the date 1842, In 
the clra wing-room is a full-length 
[lortrait of Lady ^lunro. bv Sir 
rhomas Lawrence — one of his 
linest pictures. There arc also 
portraits of the Marchioness of 
Tweeddalo ; Tx>rd Clive : Sir Arthur 
M elle^ley, by Hoppner , General 
Meadows, bv Home ; and Lord 
Hobart, by Mr Watts The Ban- 
quetina Hall, in a detached build- 
mg, Is a noble room So ft long and 
''O ft broad, and very loftw The 
j>rmcipai entrance 13 on the X., 
and is approached by a brood and 
lofty flight of stone steps. The 
yas constructed during Lord 
Clive s government to com- ; 
memorate the tall oi Seringa- ■ 
patam. Round the walls are 
^drge pictures of the Oiieen- j 
hmpress Victoria ; George HI , | 
taken at the beginning of I 

reign . a full-length of Sir 1 honias 
Munro, by Shee ; Robert, Lord 
Hobart, i pqo - 8 ; Lord Harris , j 
Cord Mornington. afterwards Mar- j 
'juis Wellesley, seated on the 
^rrace ot the old Governm^ent 
House in the Fort, with two flags 
•'•n his left, the British surmounting , 
that of Tipu, and the steeple of 
Hd St Mary's Church ; Sir C. 

‘ revelyan ; General Sir Eyre 
oote ; Lord Cornwallis ; Lord , 
'vm. Bentinck ; Lord Xapier and , 
bttrick, K.T., in the robes of a 
peer • the Marquis of Tweeddale ; 1 


Sir M. lb Grant Dull : Lord 
Connemara, and others. In the 
lower hall is a portrait of Lord 
Elphmstone faLo Gorernor of 
Bombay), and in the antechamber 
pictures of Colonel Stringer Law- 
rence and Xawab Muhammad AU 
(p 53^)' detailed notice of the 
pictures has been published by the 
All h tar y Secretary to a former 
Governor. 

Between Government House 
and the fort is the Island em- 
braced by two branches of the 
Cooum, and forming a large parade 
and recreation ground The 
Gymkhana Club is a handsome 
structure in the S.W corner. On 
the road to the Fort stands a 
bronze equestrian Statue of Str T. 
Munro, by Chantrey, erected by 
public subscription in 1839 at a 
cost of /9000. The S. branch of 
the river is spanned bv Govern- 
ment House Bridge, the X. branch 
by Walajah Bridge 

To the E. of Government 
House, on the sea-front, are the 
Chepauk ParK and Buildings, Ol 
this park, once the property of 
the X^awabs of the Carnatic, Burke 
gave a most vivid description in 
his report to the House of Com- 
mon'^ 11] on the aflair.s of the East 
India Company. On the death 
of the last occupant of the musnad, 
the property escheated to the 
State. Government has since 
greatly improved the Palace, anef 
the whole building is now in the 
Moorish style. The entrance, by the 
Walajah Road, is through an orna- 
mental gateway with represen- 
tations in porcelain of the various 
incarnations of X'lshnu, executed 
by the Madras School of Art 
The building now occupied bv 
the Boa;! of Revenue Offices. 
Attached to it on the S. is the 
Civil Engineering College, and be- 
yond this the Public Works and 
Survey Oftlces, the Sanitary En- 
gineer's Office, and the Presidency 
College, originally organised ih 
1855, a fine large building in the 
ft.iliaa With tiu Students’ 



ROTTTE ^3. MADRAS CITY AND ENVIRONS 


India 


Hostel behind it E. of the last, 
on the sea -shore, is the interesting 
Marine Aquarium, originated by 
Lord Ampthill and carried out by 
Mr Edgar Thurston in 1908. It 
is the only one in India. W. of 
the last is the Caste and Gosha 
Hospital (opened in 18S6), hidden 
amongst trees, and beyond it are 
the nne ground and pavilion of the > 
Madras Cricket Club. N. of the ■ 
old Palace is the Senate House, 
designed, like many other build- , 
mgs in Madras, by Mr Chisholm, i 
It was begun in 1874 and com- j 
pleted in 1879, at a cost of 
Rs 289,000. Close to the S. en- 
trance, facing Chepauk Palace, is 
the Jubilee Statue of Queen- 
a replica of the Boehm 
statue at Windsor, presented to 
the city by Raja Gajapati Rao 
of Vizagapatam, and unveiled on 
20th June 1887. S.W, of the 
Chepauk Palace and S. of Gov- 
ernment House is Triphcane, a 
crowded district containing the 
Palace of the Prince of Arcot. 

The fashionable drive and pro- 
menade of the Marina, \vhich ■ 
Madras owes to the Right Hon. j 
Sir M. E. Grant Duff, passes the | 
statue on the E, It extends from , 
the Rapier Bridge, almost to the i 
Roman Catholic Cathedral of St 
Thome. From the end of the 
li-larma Road, Cathedral Road j 
runs nearly due W. about 2 m. to , 
St George’s Cathedral, the Marina | 
Road itself turning inland and ' 
running to the favourite European I 
suburb known as “the Adyar, ” 
the Adyar being the river, along 
which iie several large country- 
houses A great part of these 
roads is overhung by mighty ban- 
yan trees, forming a tunnel oi 
agreeable coolness even when th^ 
sun IS hot. 

The ‘Roman Catholic Cathedral 
at San Thome, founded by the 
Portuguese in 1504, has the repu- 
tation of standing over the earthly 
remains of St Thomas. His tomb 
Is pointed out in a sublrira neons 


recess covered by an altar. On 
the E. side of the Cathedral is a 
pretty Anglican church situated on 
the top of a sand-dune within a few 
yards of the sea. This tract and 
that stretching to the W. of it was 
once known as Mylapore fp 557)- 
To the S. of it, and i m. below the 
Cathedral of San Thome, the 
Adyar River finds its way into 
the sea. There is a picturesque 
temple in Mylapore. 

Fort St George, situated on the 
sea-front N. of the island, con- 
tains the European barracks, the 
Arsenal, St JMary's Church, the 
Military, and some Government 
Offices. The E, face of the Fort 
is separated from the sea only by 
a broad road and a sandy beach 
accumulated during the present 
century It is straight, but the 
W. face landward is in the form 
of a crescent, surrounded by a 
deep fosse, crossed by draw- 
bridges. The Fort defences are 
-.iipported by three detached 
batteries, one at the Manna, 
and one at each end of the sea- 
front of George Town. 

The original Fort was founded 
m 1639— in which year Mr Francis 
Day obtained the concession of 
Chennapatnam — was remodelled* 
by ]Mr Robins, once mathematical 
professor at Woolwich, and as- 
sumed its present shape after the 
siege by Daily, It had been 
unsuccessfully attacked by Daud 
Khan, General of Aurangzeb, m 
1702, and by the Mahrattas in 

1741; but in 1 746 La Bourdonnais 
held the town to ransom for 
£400,000, and received in the name 
of the French King the surrendered 
I keys, which were restored to the 
■ English by the Treaty of Aix- 
j la-Chapelle. On 14th December 
j 1758 the French again arrived 
! before the Fort,^ under th-e com- 
j mand of M, Dally, but retreated 
1 on 1 6th February 1759 upon the 
I arrival of a British fleet of six 

' 1 '1 Uc defence was conducted by Governor 

Pigot and Culouel Stringer Lawrence 



ROUTE 33 


FORT ST GEORGE — ST MARY’^^ CHUR'^H 


551 


men-of-war, leaving behind them 
fifty-two cannon and man}’ of 
their wounded This time they 
made their approach on the N. 
side, and their principal battery, 
called Lally’s, must have been near 
where the Christian College House 
now stands, as it was close to the 
beach, and about 5S0 yds. N. of 
the Fort. Another battery was at 
the Indian cemetery in George 
town, and a third about 400 yds. 
to the S.W. The fleet arrived 
not a day too soon, as the enemy 
had pushed their trenches right 
up to the X.E. corner of the Fort, 
and 500 of the 1700 British soldiers 
had been killed, captured, or 
wounded In April 1769, while 
the forces were far away, Hyder 
'Ah made his appearance with 
his cavalry, and dictated to the 
Governor the terms on which he 
would spare the defenceless terri- 
tory. Again, on loth August 
1780, and once more in January 
1792, the garrison were alarmed 
by the appearance of the ^Mysore 
cavalry. Here, in Writer's Build- 
ings, Clive twice snapped a pistol 
at his own head. From this Fort 
he marched to his first victories ; 
and from it went the army which, 
on 4th Way 1799, killed Tipu 
Sultan and captured Seringa- 
pa tarn. • 

hen the Fort is entered from the 
E- by the Sea Gate, the Secretariat 
buildings {a fine Council Chamber 
for the meeting of the enlarged 
Legislative Council of Fort St 
George was erected a few’ year> 
ago behind the Secretariat build- 
ings) will be encountered in the 
middle of the side, w’lth St Mary's 
Church to the S. and Cornw’alhs 
Square to the W. of them. In 
the square there w’as until lately 
a statue of Lord Coyyiwallis under 
a stone canopy, on the pedestal of 
which is sculptured the surrender 
of Tipu’s two sons in 1792. This 
statue is by Banks, and was 
erected in 1800 at the joint 
expense of the principal inhabi- 
tants of Madras. It has lately 


been removed to the reading- 
room of the Connemara Library, 
attached to the Museum in 
Pantheon Road. 


St Mary's Church,^ built 1678- 
16S0, was the first English church 
m India ; but was entirely rebuilt 
in 1 75Q Lord Pigot, Sir Thomas 
Munro, Lord Hobart, and other 
distinguished persons are buried 
here, and Lord Clive w’as married 
here. One piece of the Church 
plate W’as presented by Governor 
Yale, afterw’ards the great bene- 
factor of Yale College, U.S A. 

I The most remarkable monument 
is one reared by the E.I. Company’ 
{p. 5S2) to the famous missionary’ 
Schwartz, at one time the inter- 
mediary betw^een the British and 
Hyder 'Ali. He is represented 
dyfing on his bed surrounded bv a 
group of friends, with an angel 
appearing above. In the Church 
are hung the old colours of the 
Madras Fusilier^!,,- now’ the Royal 
Dublin Fusiliers, w’hich w’ere with 
the Regiment at Cawnpore and 
Lucknow’ This w’as the first 
European regiment of the E.I. 
Company, and Lord Clive, Sir 
John i\ialcolm, and Sir Barry 
Close served in it. On the X. 
side of the Church are a number 
of tombstones removed from the 
old cemetery’ of Madras near the 
site of the present High Court 

On the \V side of Charles 
Street, leading to the gate of San 
Thome (the S. gate of the Fort), 
are pointed out quarters w’hich, 
according to tradition, W’ere once 
occupied by’ Colonel Wellesley’ (the 
Duke of Wellington), The office 
of the Accountant-General, also 
in this quarter of the Fort, w’as 
formerly the Government House 

1 Fort St George, Madras, by Mr S E 
Penny, nnd the Vicissitudes of Fort St 
ueorge, by Mr D. Leighton, will be found 
10 cotuiini main interesting details regaiding 
this church. 

“ Col. (B 'Genl.') Neill, C.R., wrote a 
ino-st inrere'ting history of the Regiment in 



512 ROUTE 33 MADRAS 

The Arsenal forms a long 
parallelogram. In the Museum 
on the hrst floor are four cornets, 
or ilags, belonging to the ist and 
2nd Regiments of Madras Cavalry 
— old flags taken from the Dutch 
and French, sewn up in covers, to 
protect them from the squirrels ; 
a very curious brass mortar from 
Kurnool, shaped like a tiger 
sitting with legs planted almost 
straight out ; the colours taken 
at the capture of Sadras in 1780, 
and from the French at PuUcat 
in 1781 ; the Dutch colours taken 
at Amboyna in 1810 ; tiger- 
headed guns taken at Seringa- 
patam in 1792 ; the six keys of 
Pondicherry, taken in 1778 ; and 
a projectile, which, issuing from 
the cannon, opens out like a 
double-bladed sword. 

N. of the Fort, and at the S.E. 
corner of the city, are the old 
Lighthouse on the Esplanade, 
which has been superseded by a 
tower on the High Court, furnished 
with the latest improved light 
apparatus, and the New Buildings 
of the latter, forming a handsome 
pile, designed and erected in the 
Hindu-Saracenic style by Messrs 
J. Brassington and H. Irwin, 
C.I.E They cover an area of 
100,000 sq. ft., and were com- 
menced in 1888, and the Law 
Courts were formally opened in 
1S92 The arrangement of the 
interior is good, and the internal 
decoration of wood-carving and 
painted glass is well w’orthy of 
inspection. In the central vesti- 
bule is a fine statue of Sir Muthu- 
swamy Iyer, a former Indian 
Judge. The Lighthouse tower is 
160 ft high, and the light is visible 
20 m. ofi at sea. Opposite the 
High Court is the fine Y.M.C A. 
building of red sandstone, de- 
signed by Mr Hams, Government 
Architect, and presented by the 
Hon W Wanaraaker, former! v 
Postmaster-General of the United 
States. W. of the Law Courts is the 
modern Law College, a fine struc- 


ciTY AND ENVIRONS India 

turc in similar style, designed by 
Mr IrwTn, C.I.E. ; and N. of this, 
across the Esplanade, are the 
: Pachiappa College and Hall, 
i which owe their erection to 
Pachiappa Mudelliar, a wealthy 
j and benevolent Hindu gentleman, 

! who, dying a hundred years ago 
when education was almost un- 
I known in Madras, endowed various 
' religious and scholastic institu- 
' tions and private charities with 
' no less than a lakh of pagodas, 
i The former was opened in 1842. 
i W. of these, and occupying a long 
! frontage on the Esplanade, are 
j the Madras Christian College 
I Buildings, situated opposite the 
j High Court and to the E. of the 
I y M.C A. buildings They were 
! erected at a cost of /5o,ooo, and 
! form one of the finest Colleges in 
1 India : it was originally founded 
\ in 1837. Opposite it is a statue 
I of the Rev. Dr Miller, C.I.E , 
j Principal of the College, erected 
. by his pupils and admiiers. 

' Along the sea-front stretching 
' N. from the Esplanade are the 
I Post Office, the new Bank of 
I the ALadras Port and Customs 
I Offices, and various houses of busi- 
I ness. W. of these is the thickly - 
' inhabited Indian quarter once 
! known as Black Town, but now 
I as George Town in honour of the 
j visit of King George V. Armen- 
I ian Street in this, running parallel 
I to the sea-front, contains an old 
i Armenian church and a Roman 
; Cathohe cathedral, dating from 
. the beginning of the i8th century ; 

I farther to the W, of the Armenian 
I Street lie the Municipal Offices 
j and Popham’s Broadway. N. of 
the city are the Monegar Choultry, 
a Poorhouse for destitute Indians, 
and the Leper Asylum ; and at 
the N.W. corner in Wall Tax 
Street are some remains of the 
i old town walls. New waterworks 
j for the supply of filtered water to 
i the city have been carried out with 
marked advantage to the health 
of the town Works for under- 
gronnrl drainage for the Northern 



ROUTE 33. HARBOUR M \DRAS 


553 


part ol the cit\ hcive been executed 
and drainage works are m progre'> 
throughout the remainder of the 
city. The total cost of these 
works is estimated at Rs.184 lakhs. 

The Harbour. The founda- 
tion-stone of the harbour works 
was laid by King Ed\vard, then 
^ Vince of Wales, on 20th Decem- 
ber 1875, but in October 1S81 
the works completed up to 
that time were muen damaged 
by a cyclone. These violent 
storms have visited Madras from 
time to time. Such occiirr.d 
m October 1746, in 1782, 1S07, 
and rSii. On 2nd May 1S72, in 
another great storm, the Hotspur 
and eight European vessels and | 
twenty Indian vessels of alto- | 
gether 4133 tons were lost, 

hike the greater part of tlie 
East Coast of India, the coast at 
^ladras consists of a sandy beach 
shelving out gradually to a depth 
of 10 fathoms at a distance of a 
couple of miles from the shore 
The harbour, therefore, has had 
lo be an entirely artificial one. It 
13 200 acres in area and is formed 
of breakwaters extending out from 
f he shore 3000 ft apart, closed at 
their seaward end by a similar 
work which extends, however, to a 
distance of 1500 ft. North of the 
Northern of the two breakwaters, 
thus forming a shelter for the en- 
trance, 400 ft. wade and 35 ft. deep 
at low water, which has been 
formed near the Eastern or sea- ; 
ward end of the N, breakwater 
i he Western or shoreward side oi i 
ffie enclosed 200 acres has been 
furnished with a deep-water quay, 
and the whole of the enclosed area 
has been dredged to a depth of 
10 ft. A few' years ago the en- 
trance was in the Eastern side of 
the harbour and there were many 
Weeks in every year when the 
'Vater inside the enclosure was too 
^ough for the convenient working 
of cargo But nowadays there is 
unooth water inside the enclosure 
^11 the year round. There is a 
o->icre inner or subsidiarv harbour 


for the shelter of craft of looo tons 
and dow’nw''ards, and advantage of 
this has been taken by merchants 
to introduce a fleet of 60 or 80 
modern steel and wooden lighters 
of 40 tons to 100 tons each, as well 
as a number of steam tugs. This 
inner basin is quayed and craned 
all round for lighter work, as is 
also a further 2 -acre pond for the 
timber trade ot the port. Besides 
the quay along the West side of the 
harbour w^hich accommodates four 
, to six of the ordinary Suez Canal 
i class ol vessels, there are tliree 
other quays at which vessels can 
lie. The P. & O., City, B.I., and 
other liners call at the port regu- 
larly, embarking and landing 
passengers direct at the quays 
where trams come direct to ship’s 
side. Horses also, of which a con- 
siderable number are imported at 
Madras from Australia, walk 
.Mraight off shipboard into pad- 
docks. Bulk oil and kerosene are 
pumped ashore at three places, 
(.hrect from the oil-steamers, into 
million-gallon tanks. There are 
two 3 3 -ton and one 15-ton steam 
cranes and some 60 hydraulic 
cranes, besides a number of others. 
For the transit of goods through 
the port, bcHveen ship and rail or 
cart, a range of about 6 acres of 
! fine shedding is available, besides 
j about 5 acres of warehouse floor 
' space for exports, all of the best 

is conducted in a fine range of 
modern offices standing in the 
centre of the West quay. The 
trams of both raihvay administra- 
tions, one 5 ft. 6 in. gauge and the 
other of the metre-gauge, converg- 
ing on Madras, with a reticulation 
of some 4000 m., enter the 

harbour premises, where tiiey are 
handled by the Port Trust over 
their own mixed gauge lines, fn 
the ten years, 1904-1914, the 
value of the trade of the port 
doubled, rising from a value of 
about 8 millions to about 16 
millions sterling The Port Trust 



554 


ROUTE 33. MADRAS CITY AND ENVIRONS 


hidta 


levies about i6oth part of this, 
or ^100,000, on the trade, in 
return for various services ren- 
dered in the passage through, in- 
cluding the amortisement and in- 
terest on the debt involved in the 
construction of the artificial har- 
bour, the entire expenditure on 
which amounted to just about 2 
millions sterling, of which just one 
half has been borrowed money, 
to be paid oh completely in 1952. 

The principal exports are hides 
and skins, chrome and manganese 
ore, magnesite, ground nuts and 
other oil seeds, tea,- indigo, yam 
and mica. The principal imports 
are oils, coal, metals, food grains, 
machinery and timber. About 
620 vessels enter and leave the 
port yearly mth a register of just 
about if million tons. The port 
lies more or less in the track of 
cyclones, which affect it to a more 
or less trifling extent every two or 
three years, but severely at inter- 
vals of twenty or thirty years. 
Provided, however, their own gear 
is strong enough to hold them — the 
Port Trust's own moorings have 
never failed — modem steamers pa\ 
scant attention to these cyclones , 
though, needless to say, to protect 
the sides of such vessels from wind 
is a task, on the fiat course of 


Madras, beyond the power of any 
Port Authority, which at Madras 
has done all that is possible by 
securing them from waves. The 
rise and fall of tide is only about 
4 ft. The old iron screw pier, so 
long a feature of the port, has long 
since been removed. General 
cargo vessels nowadays pass 
through the port in just half the ■ 
time usual ten years ago. P. & 
O. and other passenger vessels 
usually pass in to the quays and 
out to sea again wathin three 01 
four hoiir^.. 

W. of the Fort, and between it 
and the People's Park, is a fine 
group of buildings, consisting of 
the Afemorial HaU, the Medical 
S? ‘‘'=5 tleneral Hospital, and 
the Madras Railway Station, 


while a little farther on. ai ross the 
Cochrane Canal, are the Jail, the 
Moore Maiket, and Victoria Public 
HaU, at the entrance to the Park. 

The Memorial Hall is a massive 
building of no great architectural 
beauty, erected by public sub- 
scription in commemoration of 
“ the goodness and forbearance 
of Almighty God in sparing 
this Presidency from the Sepoy 
Mutiny which devastated the 
sister Presidency of Bengal m 
the year 1857." It is available 
for public meetings of a religious, 
educational, charitable, and scien- 
tific character. The Bible Society 
occupies the basement, and the 
Tract and Book Society an adja- 
cent building somewhat in the 
same style of architecture. 


The General Hospital, opposite 
the Central Railway Station, is one 
of the largest and finest in India 
The records go back to 1S20 
Dr Mortimer published an accoimt 
of it m 1838. The hospital 
contains 500 beds, and is for 
both Europeans and Indians. The 
Medical College is accommodated 
m a large detached building to 
the E. side. The Central Railway 
Station IS one of the finest in 
India ; the clock tower is 136 it 
high. Opposite it and adjoining 
the Jail is the Choultry or R.H 
of Sir Ramaswami Mudeliar. The 
yioore Market, at the entrance to 
the People’s Park, well merits a 
visit in the morning. Alongside 
of it is the Victoria Public Hall, 
designed by Mr Chisholm, m 
keeping with the style of the 
station ; it was erected during 
1883-8 The principal hall in it 
measures no ft. by 40 ft., and 
takes m ^ladras the place of a 
theatre as well as of an ** assembly 
rof.m ” To the W of the Victoria 
Public Hall, in the People's Park, 
a motiern office building for the 
Corporation of Madras, called the 
Ripon Building,” after the 
Viceroy, Lord Ripon, the founder 



ROUTE 33 


555 


HOSPITALS MUSEUM MAPRNS 


of local self-government in India, 
has been under construction it 
was designed by Mr Harris, con- 
sulting architect to the Govern- 
ment. It IS a graceful building, 
with a clock tower higher than 
that of the Central Railway 
Station. In the centre of the 
Eastern portion of the park, and 
to the N of the Moore Market, 
the S Indian Athletic Associa- 
tion occupy a large piece of land 
where athletic sports and annual 
fairs are held. The Associa- 
tion have erected a building 
called the Moore Pavilion at the 
Northern end of their grounds. 
The People's Park originated with 
Sir Charles Trevelyan while 
Governor of Madras It embraces 
ii6 acres of land It luis eleven 
artificial lakes, an athletic ground, 
a line zoological collection, tennis- 
courts, and a bandstand. 

The Poonamallee Road, .skwting 
the S. of the quarter ot Vepery 
and leading to the quarter of 
Egmore, passes the School oi 
Arts and St Andrew’s Church 
The first quarter is largely occu- 
pied bv Anglo - Indians, whose 
Association, founded in i'^ 79 . 
the leading society of its class in 
India. The Church of St Matthias 
was givmn bv Admiral Boscawen in 
place oi one destro>'ed during the 
war between the French and 
English, and W of the Church is 
the Dove ton Protestant College, 
founded in 1S53 

In the Egmore quarter are the 
mam Station of the South Indian 
Railway, the Maternity and 
Ophthalmic Hospitals, and the 
'Museum, 

The School of Arts was estab- 
lished as a private institution by 
Dr Alexander Hunter in 1850. 
Besides drawing, painting, engrav- 
ing, and modelling, the crafts of 
cabinet-making and carpet- weav- 
ing. pottery and lacquer, metal 
and jewellers’ work, are taught 
to the 450 scholars. 

St Andrew’s Church was built in 


1818 - 20 at a cost of i 20,000, 
the architect being IMajor de 
Havilland. dhe Madras stucco, 
or chiinam, in the interior gives 
to the pillars all the whiteness and 
polish of the finest marble. The 
steeple rises to theheight of 166 ft., 
and, with the lighthouse tower of 
the High Court, is the principal 
landmark in IMadras ; the building 
IS remarkable for the complete 
substitution of masonry for tim- 
ber, which might be destroyed by 
white ants. 

From St Andrew’s Church, 
Pantheon Road leads S.W. to 
the Museum, which forms the 
centre of a fine group of buildings, 
including the Victoria Technical 
Institute, the Connemara Library, 
and the New Theatre, to which the 
Empress Victoria Memorial Hall, 
a graceful building, of which King 
George, then Prince ot Vales, 
laid the foundation-stone on 
26th January 1906, and which 
was opened in March 1909, 
been added The collection now 
m it was formed in 1846, and owes 
its present development to Dr 
Balfour In the various Depart- 
ments of Natural History, Botany. 

' Geology, and Industrial Arts are 
I many objects of great interest ; 

■ but the Department of Antiquities 
.Old Archaeology, winch contains 
'^onie very beautiful remains of 
the Buddhist tope at Ainaravati 
(p- 459) > excavated by Mr R. 
sWell, M.C.S , will probably be 
I found most interesting of all. 

' The sculptures originally dis- 
i covered at this site are now 
exhibited on the great staircase 
of the British Museum. Other 
objects of interest formerly in the 
Arsenal and now in the Museum 
— iron helmets captured at 
Manilla; a gun captured from 
Holkar m 1S03 ; the cage in 
which Captain Anstruther, R.A., 
was confined in China ; and some 
leathern petards.^ The Library 

1 One object of special interest is a victini- 
po-t surmounted by an elephant’s head, at 
which human sacntices \\cie made 



India 


558 ROUTE 33 MADRAS 

extent, and there are detached 
bungalows for the stah in the 
park. 

. he Race - course, close to 
Government House, is m. 
long. On it is an obelisk to 
Major Donald Mackey, who died 
in 1783. 

St Thomas’s Mount, or the Great 
Mount, 8 m. S.W. of Madras, lies 
S. of Guindy railway station ; 
the double hill is onl}^ 100 ft. 
to 200 ft. high. Pallavaram, a hill 
about 500 ft. high, with a long, 
low range extending from it 
(station I m, distant), rises 3 m. 
farther S. It is one of the most 
interesting places near Madras. 
It IS a military depot wuth an 
Euiopean battery of Artillery and 
a regiment of Indian Infantry. 
At the base of the Mount are the 
Cantonment and the building 
which used to be the headc^uarters 
of the iladras Artillery, The 
mess-rooms are among the finest 
in India The present name 
was given only when Europeans 
settled in the place, and till then 
neither the towm nor the hill had 
any special name. This is showm 
by the present Indian name, 
Faranght Malax [t.e., the “Hill of 
the Franks “), used to denote the 
hill and the town around its base. 
The name of St Thomas's Mount 
the first European settlers found 
to be the most appropriate, as 
the apostle St Thomas, according 
to the old and commonly believed 
tradition, was said to have been 
martyred on this hill in 68 a.d,, 
whilst kneeling on a stone which 
is now on the central altar of the 
Church. The stone has an inscrip- ; 
tion in Pahlavi (a dialect spoken 
in those days in the suburbs of 
Madras), which alludes to the 
apostolate and martyrdom of the 
apostle in India. The tradition 
IS that a Brahman transfixed the ' 
apostle with a lance, relics of ! 
which are kept in the Cathedral i 


CITY AND ENVIRONS 

I at M^-iapore. The Church in 
which this stone is kept was 
built on the summit of the hill 
by the Portuguese in 1547, so 
that it is one of the most ancient 
on the Coromandel coast. Over 
an archway is the date 1726, and 
wuthm are several slabs wdth 
epitaphs. The main gate and 
portico were built by one C. 
Zachanas in 1707 a.d. Behind 
the altar and above it is a remark- 
able cross, discovered by the 
Dutch in 1547, wdth a Nestorian 
inscription in Sassanian Pahlavi of 
about 800 A.D. The inscription 
begins to the right of the top of 
the arch. Dr Burnell translates 
it : “ Ever pure . . . is in 

favour with Him wdio bore the 
cross.” Besides the stone, the 
Church contains a picture ot the 
Virgin Mary, said to have been 
j painted by St Luke, and brought 
by St Thomas to this place. The 
hill is about 250-300 ft. above 
sea-level, and has a flight of 
132 steps, built by an Armenian, 
for the convenience of pilgrims, 
visitors, etc. 

In the 15th century the Nes- 
torian Church in India fell into 
dechne, until in most places it 
totally disappeared, as at St 
i Thomas's Mount, though the 
I declivities of the wooded hill 
i continued to be the resort of 
I Nestorian monks till the beginning 
of the 1 6th century, when the 
Portuguese built the above-men- 
tioned Church and occupied it and 
the hill up to the present day. 
The Church is dedicated to Our 
Lady of Expectation, and is under 
1 the care of the R.C. chaplain at 
St Thomas’s Mount. 

Next to the Church there is a 
Convent of Franciscan Missionary 
Nuns of Mary, w'ho are in charge 
of an Indian girls’ orphanage and 
industrial school. 

The English Church, a few hun- 
dred yards from the mess-house, 
IS a handsome building with a 



ROUTE 3 I MADRAb TO WEST r q AST— bH EVAROY HILLS 


559 


well- propurtioneci steeple. Ihere ! 
are monuments here to several i 
distinguished officers. | 

Falla varam, the next ijtation to I 
St Thomas’s Mount on the S.I. . 
Ivaihvay, is also a small Canton- : 
ment. 2 m. from the station is ' 
the site of old Pallavaram, where 
there are three rock-cut shrines 
ascribed to the 7th century a.d. ^ 
One of these is now in the posses- 
sion of Muhammadans, who have , 
placed in it the panja, or hand - 
symbol. 


ROUTE 34. 

I 

MADRAS to Salem, Erode, Poda- 
nur I for the Nilgiris), Olavakkot, j 
Shoranur (for Cochin), Calicut. 
Tellicherry, Cannanore, and I 
Mangalore, 552 m. by the S.W. 
Line of the Madras and S ! 
Mahratta Railway, and the S 
Indian Railway. 

Madras to (43 ni ) Arkonam 
junction (Route 26). 

Arkonam to (132 m.) Jalarpat 
junction (Route 32 (&)). From 
here the line is that of the S. 
Indian Railway. 1 

207 ni. Salem station (R ). Ihe ' 
lailway station is at Suraman- 
galam, 4 m. from the town, j 
Salem (population 59,153) iLe 1 
headquarters of the District of 1 
the same name. j 

The Shevaroy Hills Convey- j 
ances to the foot of the hills, and , 
a chair and coolies for the ascent, i 
can best be obtained by wuiting 
in advance to the station-master : 
at Suramangalam. There are 
also suppliers in Salem town. 
The journey to the foot of the 


hills is performed in a jhatka 
(covered pony-cart). The ascent 
(7 m.) has to be performed in a 
chair carried by coolies (bearers), 
ponies being no longer available. 
Coolies can also be hired for 
light packages ; heavy luggage 
can best be sent by cart (Rs.4) 
from Salem by the new ghat road. 
The ascent by this road (13 m.) can 
also be made by motor-car or 
motor-cycle. Cars and cycles, 
ho\vever, cannot be hired. The 
scenery along the whole length of 
the road is magnificent. The road 
surface is good and the gradient 
moderate. There are, however, a 
number oi hairpin corners, which 
are not easy for a car with a fong 
wdicel base. Bullock-co<7cAes can- 
not be got now. A bullock 
can be got, but it is not to be re- 
commended for the passenger’s 
own use, though good for luggage. 

Yercaud is a small town, the 
height of tvhicli varies from 
4000 ft (at the lake) to about 
4S00 ft above sea-level. Yercaud 
and the Shevaroy Hills have 
excellent roads ; the gradient is 
steep in places, but negotiable by 
motor-cars and motor-bicycles — 
many residents use one or the 
other form of conveyance. Bunga- 
low^s are frequently available for 
a moderate rent in the season 
(April to June). Most of them 
have picturesque gardens, the cli- 
mate of the hills being peculiarly 
good for gardening operations and 
horticulture Many imported 
trees and plants flourish. There 
are a Church, a Club, a Post and 
Telegraph Office, etc. Fair Lawns 
Hotel has very beautiful grounds. 
The summer climate varies from 
about 65° F. to about 78° F. In 
wdnter the thermometer goes down 
to 45° F. or lowxr. 

Yercaud and its surroundings, 
though they cannot vie with the 
Palms and the Xilgiris in grandeur 
of scenery, are unrivalled in S. India 
for picturesqueness : nowhere else 
can so many beautiful sights be 
seen with so little trouble by a fair 



MADRAS TO WEST COAST, COIMBATORE 


India 


560 ROUTE 34. 


walker. A few of the best view- j 
points are given below, with their 1 
approximate distances from Yer- | 
caud (Church gate) : — 1 

Miles I 

Lauies' Seat . .... I 

Prospect Point i 

EearsHiIl^ 4 ' 

Pagoda Point - i 

Kiliyur Falls (after rain) . . . 1 

Shevaroyan (5314 ft ) . . • ‘4 j 

Honey Rock . . - • • , 

Shengalvaray Precipices (2 m. of 
difficult walking) . . . * 14 

The Shevaroy Hills cover an 
area of about 100 sq. m., the eleva- 
tion ranging from about 35^0 ft. 
to about 5300 ft The district 
consists mainly of coffee estates, | 
broken up by picturesque villages 
and “ greens,’’ inhabited by hill 
folk (Malayalis) Only the high- 
est points (especially the SJieva- 
royan and the Green Hills), are 
cultivated and covered with short 
grass, varied by shola (ever- 
green lull-trees). The amount of 
rubber is small at present com- 
pared uith the area under culice. 
The hospitality of the planters of 
the Shevaroy Hills is proverbial. 

A visitor armed with an introduc- 
tion will find a visit to a coffee 
estate full of interest and in- 
struction. Botanists and ento- 
mologists will find a visit to the 
Shevaroy Hills a profitable invest- 
ment of time. j 

243 m. Erode junction station | 
(R. and D B.) Here a branch of I 
the S. Indian Railway runs to ! 
{88 m.) Trichinopoly junction 

On this branch at iq m. Unjalur i 
station is a very pretty village, j 
with fine trees and a long cocoa- ! 
nut avenue. Close to the station, i 
m an enclosure, several huge ! 
terra-cotta figures of horses and 
other animals can be seen from 
the train ; similar figures may be 
seen at many places in the Madras 
Presidency. 

40 m Karur station. This was 
the capital of the ancient kingdom 
of Chera. The fort was con- 


stantlv besieged both m ancient 
times and during the wars with 
Tipu Sultan. In 1801 it was 
abandoned as a military station. 
The ruins of the fort and old 
temple are both interesting. 

88 m. Trichinopoly junction 
(Route 35). 

302 m. Podanur junction station 

(R.). 

From here the line lor the 
Nilgiris turns iS., and passes to 

305 in. Coimbatore station, 
1480 ft. above sea-level (popula- 
i tion 60,193). D.B., ^ylth first 

! ( lass and second class accommoda- 
I tion. There is a large central jail 
I m. N.W. of the railway station 
.\ll Souls’ Church is J m. to the 
X.E., and the Club is near it. The 
Agricultural College and farm, 
the Forest College and Forest 
Museum are 2 m distant. The 
great sight of Coimbatore, 3 m. 
distant, is the Temple of Perur. A 
\dew of a pillar in it is given at p. 
399, vol. I of the Hist, of Indian 
Architecture . Mr Fergusson says : 
“ The date of the porch at Perur 
is ascertained within narrow limits 
by the figure of a Sepoy loading a 
musket being carved on the base 
of one of its pillars, and his cos- 
tume and the shape of his arm 
are exactly those we find in 
contemporary pictures of the 
wars of Aurangzeb or the early 
Mahrattas in the beginning of the 
1 8th century. (The inscriptions 
copied at Perur refer themselves 
to the 12th century and later.) 
The bracket shafts are attached 
to the piers, as m Tirumal Nayak’s 
buildings, and, though the general 
character of the architecture is 
the same, there is a coarseness in 
the details, and a marked inferi- 
ority in the figure sculpture, that 
betray the distance of date 
between these two examples.'' 
In front of the temple, which is a 
I small one, there is a Pwaja 



ROUTE 34. METTrPALA[Y\M — COON OCR- HTTLIKAL DRUG 


Stambha, or stone flag-staff, 35 ft. 
high. The central shrine of the 
temple is dedicated to Goshthis- 
vara The shrine of Sabhapati, 
a name of Siva, occupies only 
a subsidiary position There is 
a smaller temple to Patteswar 
They were both built in Tirumahs 
time. There is only one gopuram, 
With live storeys, about 55 ft. 
high In the corridor leading to 
the vimana there are eight ver\ 
richly-carved pillars on either side 
in the front row, and behind them 
eight smaller and plainer. From 
the ceiling hang several chains, 
perhaps an imitation of the chains 
with bells which hang from the 
Fwdja Stambha in front of the 
building. The pillais represent 
Siva dancing the Tandava ; Siva 
killing Gajasur, the elephant- 
headed demon, appropriate enough 
in a locality where wild elephants 
used to do such mischief ; Vira 
Bhadra slaying his foes ; and the 
Sinha, or lion of the S. Siva is 
represented as treading on the 
head of the elephant - demon, 
whose skin is seen 


3^7 m. Mettupalaiyam station — 
(R ) This is the terminus of the 
broad gauge railway, and from 
here the narrow gauge Nilgiri 
Railway runs to {17 m.) Coonoor, 
and has been extended to Oota- 
camund, 12 m. farther on. This 
railway is on the metre-gauge, and 
on the mountain gradient is fur- 
nished with a central rack rail, 
enabling it to ascend one m 
twelve The scenery is fine, 
though not so fine as on the 
Darjeeling Railway, and the jour- 
ney up, in the course of which 
the line ascends 4000 ft., occupies 
5 hrs. , the journev down occupy- 
ing 4 hrs. 

Coonoor is 6100 ft. above sea- 
level. The climate is about 6° 
warmer than that of Ootacamund, 
the mean annual temperature 
being 65°, and the raintall 55 in. 


I In Coonoor itself there is not 
! much to see, but there are pretty 
i walks round the place, which will 
I occupy the spare time of two days. 
; A Pasteur Institute for S. India 
' has been established here The 
' mildness of the climate has made 
I Coonoor a favourite resort for 
i persons of delicate health. 

' Sim's Park, a prettily-laid-out 
public garden, contains an excel- 
lent collection of plants. One 
shady dell is full of splendid tree- 
ferns and other ferns of large size, 
and IS overshadowed by large 
trees of scarlet rhododendron. 
Below the park is the Wellington 
Racc-coiivse A ride of 4 m as 
the crow flies, but of 7 m. following 
the windings of the path, brings 
the traveller opposite to the St 
C uthenne’ s Waterfall, which is 
bituated X.E of Coonoor. The 
road leads for 3 m. along the 
skirts of pretty woods, or sholas, 
as they are here called, and then, 
turning off into a valley, reaches 
(4 m.) a rocky bluff called Lady 
C anmng' s Seat. Below, to the S. 
and E., he extensive coffee planta- 
tions The path ^then descends 
considerably, and turns S.E. to a 
high bluff with a path all round 
it, overlooking the chasm into 
which the stream that makes the 
St Catherine’s Fall takes a leap 
of 250 ft. into a very deep ravine. 
On the other side — i.e., S.W. — - 
of Coonoor, at about the same 
distance therefrom, there is an- 
other waterfall near Kartairi, 
which lias been harnessed to 
supply electric power for the 
Government Cordite Factory at 
Aruvankadu, near Wellington— a 
huge enclosure with a high wall 
running round it for several miles. 

An Excursion may be made to 
the Hulikal Drug, or Tiger - rock 
Fort, which is on the summit of a 
hill that towers up to the left of 
the pass in ascending from Mettu- 
palaiyam. It requires a whole 
day from dawn to sunset, and is 
rather fatiguing. The road to it 



nOTTF :i| MADRAS TO WEST TOAST I OOl M AMUND i )U/OT 

turii^ on at the hrst zigzag on hut'. I is ^uiTouudcd by lofty Inlu-' 

the new shat about z m iron' ‘ >f those Dudabetta on the E is 

Coonoor A rough bridle - path iho highest, being S640 it. abo\e 

along the ridge leads to it The >ea-le\'el ; but there are also other 

peak IS about 6294 ft high, uind lofty hills as Elk Hill, Sogo tx 
conimriU'b in >. ]“cir weather a liigh. The Luke is about 2 lU 

splendid view ione from E. to W , but narrow 

From the PnW < H'Ae at Founoor It i> 7220 ft. above sea-level, ana 
it 1- about y m to the barraLk.- the road round it is one of the 

at Wellingtoii About 1 in, be lure pleasantest drives in the plac< 

reaciiing the b^iriMt^ks a \'cr\ ihe principal Lhii>ch, St Stepht/’ ^ 

prett\ lountain at a croi>b-ruad i'. i-. near the Club, the Post Ulhce, 

reac^ied. and tiie rodLl to the the Eibrary, and the yirin- 

barr.'cks turn^ oh »harpl\' to the cipal shops. The market is clo>' 

left. Tiie buildings, an un-^ightly to the E end of th(' lake, and tie 
inle nearb' t^oo It lung, but }ail is to its \\ on the X, .suh 

bell' ved to be atmuig tlu^ hnest in Thomas’.s^ Church is on the 0 

Jndiu, lie hali-way up a verv >teep -.ule of the lake, and close to 
lull, on which i-> tlie ( ommanfhmt’s it \V of the ^^lllowbund. The 
liuu^t, uitli a fu'etty -dikhn railway cru'.'.e-' the lake immedi- 
Xhe barracks were built in [-''Oo, atrl\' lo tile W <d the bund, 

and were added to in t?^75 The unci tlit ^tatlon lies N ot the 

water supply is brought Irom tin Juki, betwt'en Koad and 

kaiha Plantations, m uwav lladfu-ld ko.ul 
-V large piec'e ot ground < lose to 

the barracks is < ultuated by tlu“ dhe >tdiLind through 

soldiers, where both flews ers and ' a Inch Eos (*rnment House is ap- 
vegetable.s are serv succe’.sfully proached, w ere established in 
grotvn The mean annual range l>v public subscription, and ao 
of the thermometer is and l)e.autifullv laid out m brisu 

ot the baromet^T 24 ‘a Tlieramtall terraces one above anotlur at tlw 
i. about 70 in foot ot a hdl, which graduafle 

rises till it culminates in the peak 
Kntagiri, the oldest and third 01 l^odabetta, 1200 ft. above the 
largest hill station on the Xilgiri g irden^ and 80 jo ft. above the 
Hills, IS an ideal sanatorium, and sea The Superintendent’s hou'-e 
IS much liked as a rest-cure resort i is charmingly situated. 

It is rapidly expanding, and manv I The Cinchona Plantation-^ 
houses for Europeans have been i above the garden.s, are not much 
built during the last few years 1 m point of appearance, as the 
It is 6511 it above sea-lea’ el, has 1 tree is low (25 ft.), and has but 
some good scenery, and commands ' little foliage. The chief varictic"’ 
a wide landscape all round. It j cultivated are Cinchona Ojneinoh^ 
has a small club and a librarv } and C Succirubrci, with resultant 
attached to it. There is also a ’ hybrids. Formerly the system 
goh-lmks of mne holes. | pursued was that after the tree 

I had grown eight years it wa'. 
Ootacamund (lat. 11° 24', long. 1 barked, half of the bark bein.g 
7^° 440 - From Wellington to ; taken off in six months during 
Ootacamund is 9 m. The old road the rains, and the other half the 
is well planted with trees ; in next year. The tree then rested 
parts it skirts a precipice of some one year, so that each yield took 
hundred feet in height. (Consult three years. The Dutch system, 
the History of Sir F. Price for no^v followed, consists of shaving 
Ootacamund.) off the outer layers 0/ bark, never 

Ootacatnund (mttnd— village of completely stripping any portion 



OOTACAMUND 


8299<SjiawAm S.5. 




Sertlf 1 40 IKK) 

^2 

SeipTits m^ffn^hsh Feet 


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ROTTTE S4 OOTACAMUND MURKURTI PFAK 


of the tree. The bark is worked 
up into sulphate of quinine and 
cinchona febrifuge in the factor)’ 
at Xaduavattam. 

From the top of the ridge a most 
superb panorama is seen. To the 
S.Jl. is Elk Hill, behind which, 
and not visible, is the Lawrenct 
Asylum, 7330 ft. Farther to the 
S. of the lake is Chimia Dodabeita 
or Little Dodabetta, 7849 ft., and 
in the tar \V. Cairn Hill, 75 S3 it , 
Ootacamund itself and its lake, 
and St Stephen's Church Hill, 
7429 ft. Beyond, to the N. ot the 
lake, are still higher hills, as 
Snowdon, 8299 ft., and Club Hill, 
S030 It. The finest view, how* 
ever, is to the E. Here is Orangt 
\ alley, where oranges once used 
to grow. To the N. is the Moyar 
A'alle^ , ignobly termed the 
"-Mysore Ditch," but really pro- 
found and gloomy with forests 
and the shadows of overhanging 
hills. To the E. are seen diml\ 
the Gajalhatti Pass and X. Coim- 
batore mountains, covered witli 
dense forests abounding with 
game. 

The Lawrence Asylum, 5 m. from 
the Post Office at Ootacamund, is 
a handsome structure, with a 
tower over 70 ft. high, situated in 
a lovely valley. The dining-room 
IS large enough to accommodate 
300 boys. In it are good portraits 
of Sir Hope and Lady Grant 
Ihe boys learn, among other 
things, telegraphy, and competi. 
for appointments in the Gov- 
ernment Telegraph Department ; 
others are taught trades, and some 
are enlisted in regiments stationed 
in India. The return to Ootaca- 
mund may be made by another , 
road, past a fine piece of water, 1 
and through tea plantations. | 
In many of the compounds or | 
grounds at Ooty are beautiful | 
shrubs. Heliotrope has been j 
known to grow to 10 ft. in height | 
and 30 ft. in circumference, and . 
a verbena to 20 ft. in extent. i 
N,W. of the lake are the downs, 1 
with the golf-links. The downs, j 


I which consist oi grassy slopes 
j and dales, with woods {sholas) and 
; Streams interspersed, are the 
I scene of the well - known hunting 
I attractions of Ootacamund. They 
' are known as the Wenlock Downs 
j (after Lord Wenlock, formerlv 
, Governor of Madras), and cover 
' an area of 30 sq. m. Their 
I presence and the absence of 
! alpine foliage give Ootacamund a 
very different appearance from 
the X. hill stations of India. 

■ Recently trout fishing has been 
started in the more important 
streams and rivers on the plateau, 
and some good sport has been 
obtained. 

The Murkurti Peak (or Ta'igan- 
nam) is 16 m. due W. of Ootaca- 
mund, among the grand mountains 
of the Kundas, where the scenery 
is magnificent. m can be 

driven ; the remaining loil^ m, 
must be done on horse&ack. 
Refreshments must be taken. 
This peak is 8380 ft. high, while 
I Avalanche Hill is 8497 ft., and 

■ Kunda Peak 8304 ft. “ It is a 
spot held sacred by the Todas a^ 

I the residence of a personage whom 
i they believe to be the keeper of 
I the gates of heaven." The re- 
, ligion of this singular tribe has 
i not yet been definitely ascertained. 

' The road to the peak passes along 
the ridges of the Governor Shola 
I range of hills, crosses the Parsons 
' Valley and Krurmund streams, 

• and for some distance follows the 
j windings of the Murkurti stream, 
j which is the head of the Paikara 
River. From the head of the 
Paikara an easy ascent of m. 
leads to the summit of the peak ; 
and there, should the mist and 
clouds fortunately roll away, a 
grand scene will present itself to 
the view. Towards the S. the 
N termination of the Kunda 
range can be seen rising in abrupt 
escarpments and vertical preci- 
pices to an enormous height, 
excavated and furrowed by deep 
ravines, while tlie N. side of the 



5 ''>4 ROUTF 14 . MADRA=^ TO 

mountain is a terrific and per- 
fectly perpendicular precipice of 
at least 1500 ft The mountain 
here seems to have been cut 
sheer through the centre, leaving 
not the slightest shelf or ledge 
between the pinnacle and the 
level of the plains below. On the 
W. side the picturesque paddy 
flats of the Wynaad, which 
appear amidst dense jungle, and 
the plains of Malabar as far as 
the Arabian Sea are seen in vivid 
contrast to the blue mountain 
ranges of Ootacamund and the 
heights of Dodabetta that present 
themselves to the view on the E. 

Other sights on the Nilgiris are 
the Waterfalls at Kal ~ Haiti and 
the Paikara Falls at the N.W. 
corner of the plateau. There is 
also another much finer fall in 
the heart of the Kundas, formed 
by the Bhawani, 400 ft. or 500 ft 
high, and surrounded by scenery 
of the most savage grandeur ; but 
it is difficult of access. The 
Ranga Swami Peak and the 
fortress ot Chaki, Rangaswami 
Pillar, otherwise known as Huli- 
kal Drug or Pakasurakottai, may 
also be visited. The native vil- 
lages of the Todas (the aboriginal 
hill tribe) and other tribes may 
be seen in these expeditions. 

Stone circles, which the Todas 
call Phins, and which contain 
images, urns, relics, and some 
very prettily-wTought gold orna- 
ments, are found in many parts 
of the hills ; but the most con- 
venient locality for a visit from 
Ootacamund is the Hill of Karoni, 
3 m. to the S. The circles are 
built of rough unhewn stones 
some of them of large size, which 
must have been brought from a 
considerable distance. The his- 
tory of their construction is 
unknown. 

Sport on the Xilgiris is varied 
and interesting. Along the jungle- 
clad slopes of the plateau and 
in the extensive forests on the 
Wynaad plateau roam herds of 
elephant and bison, which occa- 


WKST COAST : OOTACAMUND India 

I sionally mount to the Kunda 
I plateau. Tigers, although not 
I plentiful compared to other parts 
j of India, are shot to the number 
; of twenty or thirty every year, 
i and those that have lived on the 
plateau for any length of time 
exhibit magnificent furry coats 

Panthers are numerous, and the 
black variety, so rare in most 
parts of India, is comparatively 
common. Owing to the exertions 
of the Kilgiri Game Association, 
which was founded in 1877, the 
[ game on the hills, at one time 
; in danger of extermination, has 
1 greatly increased, and is still 
increasing. It is not uncommon 
i in the wilder part of the Kundas 
! to see from one standpoint sixty 
I or seventy sambhur {the red deer 
1 of India) grazing on the grassy 
! slopes or nibbling the young 
I shoots of bamboo along the edge 
' of the sholas. 

\ The Nilgiri “ ibex," an unique 
j genus of the goat tribe whose 
habitat is confined to the Madras 
Presidency, is found along the 
precipitous sides of the plateau. 
Owing to the extreme wariness 
of the ibex and to the dangerous 
nature of the ground, the sport of 
ibex stalking is one of the finest 
in the world, calling for a steady 
nerve and the instinct of a sports- 
man. On the plateau, too, occurs 
in considerable numbers, although 
less common than formerly, the 
little barking deer or Munt-jac, 
locally known as the " jungle 
sheep." 

The chital, or spotted deer, the 
i most beautiful of all the deer 
I family, frequents the lower slopes 
1 of the plateau and the valleys of 
j the Moyar and the Bhavani 
j rivers, and here, too, are found 
I the nilghai and the four-horned 
! antelope. 

To complete the list of large 
game in the Nilgiris may be added 
the sloth bear, the hyena, and 
the wild boar, the last of which 
is a sad enemy to the potato 
crops of the peasantry. 



ROUTE 34. OOTACAMUND BRITISH COCHIN 5O5 


i’ui UiL* po'.'Tje&bOr oi a shot-gun 
there is also a considerable variety 
of sport From September to 
March snipe may be found all 
over the plateau, and although 
no Figs comparable with those 
obtained on tlie plains oi India 
are to be got, smaller bags are 
compensated for by the pleasure 
of being able to use spaniels and 
other English sporting dogs to 
]>ut up the birds before the gun 
The wood-cock, the sohiary. and 
the wood-snipe are all found 
during this time of the year, and 
by those who know their habits ! 
a good deal of sport can be ! 
obtained The only indigenous 
game bird of importance on the 
plateau is the “ jungle cock,'" 
whose cheerful crowing at sunrise 
and sunset adds so much pleasure 
to life in the forest They are 
carefully protected and encour- 
aged by the Game Association, 
which has also been at consider- 
able trouble to introduce other 
sporting birds. 

Below the plateau the peacock 
IS very common, and there ^re 
several varieties of quail, the 1 
common brOwn partridge, the | 
spur-fowl, and pigeons of various j 
kinds, two of which, the Nilgiri J 
wood - pigeon and the Imperial j 
pigeon, are also found on the j 
plateau itself. ! 

For the fisherman the Nilgiris i 
have also special attractions 
The iMoyar and the Bhavani and 
their tributaries are the home i 
of the mighty mahsir, and the , 
rivers are under strict coiiser- j 
va,ncy. On the plateau many | 
miles of beautiful hill streams ; 
have been stocked VMth trout, 1 
and sport equal to the best that 
English streams afford can be 
obtained with a very moderate 
expenditure of inonev and trouble. 
Last, but not least, comes Mr i 
Jorrock’s “ Sport of Kings. " 
Ootacamund is celebrated 
throughout the East for its hunt- 
mg. The Ooty Hunt has a his- 
toiy dating from 1847, unbroken 


except during the Mutiny, and 
boasts of a pack of from 50 to 
60 couple of foxhounds, parth' 
imported year by year from 
England, and parth* bred and 
reared on the hills together with 
cKcellent kennels and a large 
staff The hunting season lasts 
from April to the end of October 
lliere are no foxe^, but the hill 
jackal IS no mean substitute, and 
13 a very different-looking animal 
from his brother on the plains. 
A really good horse and stout 
nerve are required to see the 
finish of a run with the Ooty 
hounds. 

From Podanur (p. 5''io) the rail- 
way to the \V. coast runs through 
the gap in the ghats, 20 m. broad, 
known as the Pal Ghat gap, the 
only real break in the 600 m. of the 
I W. Ghats. All this portion of the 
line IS very picturesque ; it runs 
through dense forest, with fine 
views of the bare mountain-side 
close at hand 011 the N. The 
mountains on the S. side of the 
pass are only visible here and there 
in the distance. 

332 m. Olavakkot junction, from 
vvhich there is a short line {3 m ) 
to Pal Ghat (population 50,000) ; 
(D.B.), the second town of the Dis- 
trict. The fort, built by Hyder 
'Ah m 1766, was captured in 1784. 
and again in 1790. The glacis, 
moat and walls are in good preser- 
\'ation, and the situation is very 
iine. Golf-course. 

360 111 Shoranui' junction (K.), 
lor the Cochin State Railway, 
giving access to British Cochin. 
Across the Ponnam River is a 
D.B 

Britisn Cochin (D.B,, Club) is 
the earliest European settlement 
111 India. The Portuguese, under 
Cabral, landed here in 1500 and 
founded a factory. Vasco da 
Gama landed 1502, Fort built, 
1503. Eiigiish factory opened. 



India 


568 ROUTE 34. MADRAS TO 

388 m. Tirur (D.B.). Roads for 
Ponnani and Malappuram meet 
here. The famous INIalabar back- 
water system of communication 
comes in contact with the railway 
here, iMotor-boats ply, in con- 
nection with the trains, to Ponn- 
ani. At ^lalappuram (D B.) 
there is a detachment of British 
troops. The Special Reserve 
Police has its headquarters here. 

Tanur (D.B ), an important | 
fishing village. The Government | 
Fisheries Department has a fish- I 
curing and canning factory here, j 
A fine mosque. Visited by St 
Francis Xavier, 1546. 

404 m. Kadalundi. Station for ' 
Be3^pore, 8 m. S. of Calicut. A 1 
small port, for a long time the ' 
terminus of the S.W. hue of the 
Madras Railway". 

414 m. Calicut station ^ (popu- 
lation 78,417 ; good D B., also 
a hotel and club.) Anchorage 
2 m. from shore. Boats, Rs.2^ 
each. Golf-course. 

Buchanan (2, 474) sa\"s : 

“ The proper name of this place 
is Colicoda. When Cheruman 
Perumal had divided Malabar 
among his nobles, and had no 
principality" remaining to bestow 
on the ancestors of the Tamuri,^ 
he gave that chief his sword, with 
all the territory^ in which a cock 
crowing at a small temple here 
could be heard. This formed the 
original dominions of the Tamuri, 
and was called Colicudu, or the 
Cock - cro\\mg.'' The town is 
spread over an area of 13 sq. m , 
being 6 m. in length and averaging 
2 m. in width. To the S is the 
Mappilla “ quarter, with a number 
of mosques. These formerly tur- 
bulent people are descended from 
Arab settlers on the coast. To the 

1 Ihi-, a variant of Zamuii, a corruptiun 
of S vmi'tin, sea - lurd. which has teen 
anglicised as Zamorin. 

- Cummunly called Moplahs. 


WEST COAST : CALICU r 

X. at West Hill railway station, 
j m from Calicut railway station, 
there are barracks for a small de- 
tachment of British troops kept 
there. To the centre is the Eur- 
asian quarter, with a R.C. Church 
and a large tank, and an Enghsh 
Church, the Collector’s Cutcherry 
and the Judge’s Court, and near 
this are the remains of the old 
palace and a new palace. The old 
burial-ground, is close to the pier. 
Here is interred Henry Valentine 
Conolly, Collector and Magistrate 
of TIalabar, who was murdered by 
Moplahs in September 1855. The 
oldest inscription that can now be 
read is to Richard Harrison, who 
died on 14th April 1717 Facing 
the sea are houses of the European 
residents, and the Custom House, 
and also the Club. The Collector’s 
house is at East Hill, near the 
barracks of West Hill. There is 
a large and interesting temple m 
Talli, the Brahman quarter. There 
is a great appearance of cleanliness 
, and comfort in the houses even of 
the very poor in Calicut, and the 
whole place is rendered very pic- 
’ turesque by the fine trees and 
( groves of cocoanut palms m 
' which it is embowered. The 
: French have still a loge at Calicut. 

] Cotton cloth, originally imported 
I from this town, derives from it its 
I name of calico. The Basel Mission 
I lias a large textile factory m 
, Calicut, as well as a college and 
j a hospital. 

At Calicut, on nth May 1498, 
arrived Vasco da Gama, after a 
i voyage of ten months and two 
days from Lisbon, of -which the 
j “Os Lusiades ’ ’ of Camoens contain 
\ so interesting an account. It 
I then contained many noble build- 
! ings, especially a Brahman temple 
! The native Raja,^ the Tamurin, 

^ was called Zamorin by Euro- 
I pean writers. In 1509 the Mare- 
I chal of Portugal, Don Fernando 

1 C:iltciU aiui the We^t Coa-'t 

were undei the iint3- of Vijajanagar 

(p. 



ROUTE 34. t 

Coutmilo, made an attack on 
Calicut with 3000 men, but was 
himself slam and his forces 
repulsed with great loss. In 
1510 Albuquerque landed, burnt 
the town, and plundered the 
palace, but was eventually obliged 
to sail away with great loss. In 
1513 the Raja concluded a peace 
with the Portuguese, and per- 
mitted them to build a fortified 
factory. In 1616 an English 
factory was established at Calicut. 
In 1695 Captain Kidd the pirate 
ravaged the port In 1766 Hyder 
CA.li invaded the country, and the 
Raja, finding that his offers of 
submission would be in vam, 
barricaded himself in his palace, 
and, setting fire to it, perished in 
the flames. Hyder 'Ali was soon 
called off to the war in Arcot, and 
the territory of the Raja of Calicut 
revolted, but was reconquered in 
1773 by Mysore. In 1782 the 
victors were expelled by the 
English, and in 1789 Tipu Sultan 
overran the country, and laid it 
waste with fire and sword. Many 
women were hanged with their 
infants round their necks ; others 
were trampled under the feet of 
elephants. The cocoanut and 
sandal trees were cut down, and 
the plantations of pepper were 
torn up by the roots The town 
was almost entirely demolished, 
and tJie niatenals earned b m. to 
the S E., to build a fort and town 
called F avnikhahud , “ Fortunate 
City.” q'he next year Tipu 
Sultan’s general was totally de- 
featecl and taken prisoner watli 
900 of his men bv the British, who 
captured the so-called ” Fortunate 
City”; and in 1792 the wRole 
territory w’as ceded to the English 
Government. Since that time 
the country has gradually recov- 
ered itself, and the trade of the 
city IS no'v about 200 lakh^,. The 
Zamorin now enjoys a political 
pension and has vast private 
estates, but no territorial juri.s- 
diction. It is said that two pillaib 
of the old palace in wdiich da Ganni 


alicut — 'MAH r 569 

I v\ as received stiii remaiii. it is re- 
. lated that the Portuguese leader 
, knelt dow'n on his way to ^ some 
Hindu idols, taking them for dis- 
I torted images of Cathohe saints, 

! ” Perhaps they may be devils,” 
said one of the sailors “No 
matter,” said another, ” I kneel 
before them and worship the true 
, God.” 

i 451 m. Make (population about 
^ 10,000 ; named after M. Mahe de 
Labourdonnais when he captured 
! it in I "25^ — originally called May- 
I yan) is a dependent territory ol 
i 2^ sq. m., belonging to the French 
I — their only possession on the 
coast, under a Chef de Service 
subordinate to Pondicherry. 

^ It is finely situated on high 
; ground overlooking the river, the 
entrance of wRich is closed by 
f rocks None but small craft can 
I pass the bar in safety, and that 
1 only in fair w^eather ; but the 
j river is navigable for boats to a 
considerable distance inland. On 
a high hill some w^ay off is 
i seen the Mission House of the 
I Basel missionaries at Chombala. 

; From this hill there is a beautiful 
view’ of the w’ooded mountains of 
I Wynaad. The French settlement 
: at Mahe dates from 1725. It wras 
j taken by the English under Major 
, Hector ]\Iunro in 1761. The 
] Peace of Paris, in 1763, gave it 
back to the French, but it w’as 
retaken by the English in 1779. 
and in 1793 the British estab- 
lishment at Tellicherry moved 
to Mahe ; but, the place being re- 
stored to the French in 1S17, the 
English officials returned to Tel- 
licherry. Mahe, in common with 
the other French settlements in 
India, possesses all the institution^ 
of a republic — manhood suffrage, 
vote by ballot, municipal and local 
'councils, representation at the 
Const' it Gentral, wdiich sits at 
Pondicherry, and in the Chambers 
lii France by a senator and a 
deputy, who in practice are always 
residents in France. The Admin- 



570 


ROUTE 34. ‘MADRAS TO WEST COAST: WYNAAD 


India 


istraieur is appointed from home, i 
He represents the central, and the 
Mairff the local. Government 
seep. 577). Excellent fishing. j 

457 ni. Tellicherry (D.B. good , 
population 29,258). Anchorage, 

m. from shore. Boat hire, R.i 
per boat The town lies in a most 
picturesque situation, backed by 
wooded hills, interspersed with 
valleys and watered by a fine 
river. There is a reef of rock.^ 
which forms a natural breakwater, i 
within which is sufficient depth of | 
water for a ship of 600 tons to 
ride at anchor. The value of the 
trade is about 100 lakhs per annum 
In 1781 H.M. ship Superb, of j 
seventy-four guns, was lost here. I 
The fort is built on a rising ! 
ground close to the sea, and is I 
about 40 ft. above its level. The j 
whole of the N.W. side of the 
citadel is occupied by an old ' 
lofty budding. The town ('on- 
tains good examples of the better : 
native houses. The main bazar 
street is one of the most fascinat- 
ing m Malabar, and the coast 
scenery is delightful : good 

bathing 

The Cardamoms and Coffee of 
the Wynaad are mostly exported 
from Tellicherry ; the first are j 
reckoned the best in the 
world The seed npf^ns m Sep- 
tember ; excellent sandal- wood is 
also exported. The Wynaad is a 
plateau about 3000 It, above sea- 
level in the E. of the iMalabar Dis- 
trict containing many tea and 
coffee estates. Coffee predomi- 
nated till the end of the 19th cen- i 
tury, but there is now 'far more tea. ' 
The area under tea is now 12,000 
a.cres and i.s steadily increasing ; 
Some gold - mining was done 1 
twenty to thirty years ago in I 
the Devala tract, attached to ! 
the Nilgiris District, but the : 
industry is now dead. The 
t.ngfisli factoiy* at TeUiclierr'' ^ 
which was established chiefly for i 
the purcha.se of pepper and carda- 
mons, was first opened in 1683 


under orders from the Presidency 
of Surat. It was the first regular 
English factory on the Malabar 
coast. In 1 708 the East India 
Compan}' obtained from the Chen- 
kal Raja a grant of the fort. In 
17S2 Hyder ’All attacked the 
place, but was compelled by the 
vigorous sally of the garrison under 
Major Abington to raise the siege. 

469 m. Cannanore has 28,957 
inhabitants, and is a municipality 
and military station (D.B. good, 
and good hotel ; also a Club, golf- 
course, and good sea-bathingl 
Anchorage 2 m. from shore. Boat 
hire, R.I each passenger - boat. 
The Cantonment is on a jutting 
portion of land, which forms the 
N.MC side of the bay. Near the 
end of this is a promontory, on 
which stands the fort built by 
the Portuguese This, since its 
acquisition by the English, has 
been improved and strengthened. 
The clifis are from 30 ft. to 50 ft. 
high here, with piles of rocky 
boulders at their feet. The bung- 
alows of the officials are most 
of them built on the edge of these 
cliffs, and enjoy a cool sea-breeze. 
Fartlier inland, and in the centre 
of the Cantonment, are the Church, 
magazine, and English burial- 
ground, contiguous to one another. 
The Portuguese Church, once the 
Portuguese factory, is close to the 
i^ea. The old Alappilla town, v.fitli 
some picturesque mosques, the 
Raja's palace and old business 
house, he round the Bay to the S. 
of the Fort. The climate of Can- 
namore is mild, equable, and re- 
markably healthy. It has been 
used as a military sanatorium 
during the Wai. The Portuguese 
had a fort here as early as 1505- 
They were expelled by the Dutch, 
who subsequently sold the place 
to a Mappilla lamily, the head of 
which IS called the 'Ali Raja (sea- 
lord), or Bibi, if a woman. His 
territory consisted of the town and 
a little of the adjacent country on 
the S., and he also claimed sover- 



ROUTE U. CANNANORE — MANGALORE ^71 


cigiity over the Laccadive iislauds. 

I Jiese iblands were sequestrated for 
mismanagement, and were admin- 
istcied tor over thirty years by the i 
Collector ot Malabar. Eventually 
m i9n they were ftnalh ceded, | 
and the Raja was given a pension. 
In 1768 ’All Raja, the then ruling 
Oiie^ readily submitted to Hyder j 
Ah, and joined him on his invad- ' 
ing Malabar. In the war with 
Iipu Sultan, in 1784, Cannanore 
was occupied by the English ; but , 
on the conclusion of peace next ' 
vear it was restored to the Bibi. , 
She again dallied with Tipu Sultan, i 
and Cannanore was finally stormed 
and captured by General Aber- 
cromby m 1790. 

552 m. Mangalore, the head- [ 
quarters of the S. Kanara ihstrict 
'popn^atiou 48,412). 12'' 52' N , 

74 5^^ E. The place is separated ; 
trom the sea by a backwater j 
iormed by the junction of two j 
streams. In the rams these rivers, | 
which flow round two sides of a j 
peninsula on which the town ' 
of Mangalore stands, bring down ; 
a large quantity of water, and : 
they are then navigable tor ' 

boats oi some burthen to a con- | 
siderable distance inland. In i 

the dry season there is but little 1 
current in either, except that ! 
caused by the influence of the ! 
tide, which flows to about 9 m. , 
or 10 m from their moul^i. The j 
banks of these rivers are high and I 
steep, and are, where the soil ' 
permits, planted with cocoanut- 1 
trees or laid out in gardens and j 
nce-fields. At the back ot the j 
present landing - place the great , 
bazar commences, and stretches 1 
Ah on the edge of the backwater j 
about 4 m. The building of the 
railway bridge appears to have 
had the effect of making the 
opening, which used to change its 
position, permanent in its present ‘ 
locality ; and, in consequence, ] 
extensive dredging and other ] 
>cheme^, of improvement are now i 
under consideiation. From the j 


hill on which the old lighthouse 
stands a remarkable view of the 
coast and the ghats can be had. 
rile trade of the port lias an 
annual value of 65 lakhs. 

In ancient times IMangalore was 
.L place ot very great commerce. 
Ibn Batata, in the middle of the 
14 th century, speaks of 4000 
^luhammadan merchants as resi- 
dent there. Forbes speaks of it, 
in 1772, db the principal seaport 
in the dominions of Hyder 'Ah, 
and well situated tor commerce. 
Both Hyder ’Ali's and Tipu 
Sultan’s ships of war were built 
at Mangalore of the fine teak 
produced on the slopes ot the 
ghats. 

Mangalore was most gallantly 
defended by Colonel Campbell, of 
the 42nd, from 6th May 17S2 to 
30th January 17S3, with a garrison 
of 1850 men, of whom 412 were 
-British soldiers, against Tipu 
Sultan’s whole army (see Wilks, 
2, 466-86), but in the end had 
to surrender. 

The Szc'iss Missiofi at Man- 
galore is worth}’ of a visit. Vari- 
ous industries and trades are 
taught — printing, book - binding, 
carpentry, tile manufacture, etc. 
There are two colleges affiliated 
to the ^ladras University — the 
Government College and the 
Jesuit College of Si Aloyshis. 

A modern traveller says : “We 
saw an exhibition of the products 
of this district. The description 
of Marco Polo will answer equally 
at the present day. He says : 

‘ There is in this kingdom a great 
quantity of pepper, and ginger, 
and cinnamon, a,nd of nuts of 
India. They alscj manufacture 
very delicate and beautiful buck- 
rams. They aNo bring hither 
cloths of silk and gold, also gold 
and silver, cloves and spikenard, 
and other fine spices for which 
There is a demand liere.’ ’’ Coffee 
1- now tile ciiwf export from the 
place, file value being 48 lakhs . 
annually. 

I here is an obelisk m the Burial- 



572 


ROUTE 35. MADRAS TO TUTICORIN : CHIN OLE PUT 


India 


grouyid to the memory of Briga- 
dier-General Carnac, who died 
here, aged eighty -four, in r8o6 
He was second in command to 
Clive at the Battle of Plassey. 

There are three places con- 
taining interesting Jain buildings, 
VIZ., Munbidn, Karkal, and Yenur. 
At IMunbidri are remarkable Jam 
carvings ; at Karkal and Yenur 
are colossal images, the third — 
there are only three in the world — 
being in the Mysore State. ISIud- 
bidri is 22 m. by a good road, 
Karkal is 18 m. further, and Y'enur 
16 m., but in a different direction, 
and not easily accessible. Karkal 
can be reached vtd Munbidn in 
about 5 hrs. by pony transit, if 
arrangements are made before- 
hand. 


ROUTE 35. 

MADRAS by South Indian Rail- 
way to ChiugTeput, Porto Novo, 
Chidambaram , Kumbako nam , 

Tanjore, Trichinopoly, Dindigal, 
Madura, Tinuevelly, Quilon, and 
Tuticorin, for Colombo, with 
excursions to Gingee, Kodai- 
kanal, Kuttaiam, Cape Com- 
orin, and Trivandrum, and by 
rail to Pondicherry, Negapatam, 
and Ramesvaram. 

Madras to Tuticorin, 443 m., in 
hrs. Fares — Rs. 28, Rs.14, 

R.q.5 

Madras. Egmore slation (p. 
555 ) 


34 m from Madras is Chingleput 
junction station fR.). At a D.f}. 
about J m. to the N.W.. sleeping 
' accommodation is available A 
I line of 39 m. runs to ArkoiMin 
junction station fR.). on the 
Madras Railway (Route 32 (6))- 
Chingleput can easily be visited 
' by motor from Madras (sec 
' p. 540). If time allows of 
; a halt at Chingleput the tour 
i can be extended by visiting Ma- 
’ mallapuram, Tirukazhikundram, 
j Sadras, Madurantakam, and other 
places of interest in the neighbour- 
! hood. I m. from Chingleput are 
i the Pallava Caves of Vallam, with 
archaic inscriptions. 

, Chingleput ib said to mean ‘‘ the 
I brick hamlet * ' — possibly because 
I it was more substantially built 
than the grass-hut villages in the 
1 neighbourhood. It is the resid- 
I ence of the District Judge and of 
the Sub- Collector 

1 The Fort is of Vijayanagar 
I origin, and was built in the i6th 
j century, after the Battle of 
, Talikota in 1565, when the power 
I of the Vijayanagar kingdom was 
I broken by the Muhammadan 
f Kings of the Deccan. A slab 
j imbedded upside down in one of 
I the ramparts evidently relates 
I some deed of Xarasimha, who 
I was the founder of the second 
i Vijayanagar dynasty. Tradition 
' states that the Fort was built by 
i Timma Raja, an offshoot of the 
I royal house, after their flight to 
j Chandragiri. The grant of land 
j to the English on which Fort St 
George is built was made by one 
! of the Naiks of Chingleput, and 
! was one of the last important acts 
[ of the Hindu Vijayanagar Princes. 

1 The Fort is a typical Hindu 
1 structure, built after the model 
I of Gingee, “ the modern Troy.” 
! The walls are formed of roughly- 
' dressed stone, hewn for the pur- 
j pose by families of workmen. 

I who affixed their marks to the 
stones. It IS nearly a paralielo- 
i gram, 400 yds by 320 yds., and 
had an entrance in the shape of a 



ROUTE 35 . 

Greek fret, with a mandapani at 
the first turn, and at the next 
a temple dedicated to the monkey- 
god Anjaneya, who was a devotee 
to Kothan'daramaswami (Rama 
with a bow), and to whom a 
temple was erected within the 
fort This temple was removed 
m i«ii3 with the permission oi 
the E.I. Company, and erected 
m the town where it stands at 
present. The Fort defences con- 
sist of broad ditches 60 ft. wide, 
with an outer and inner rampart 
18 ft. high. At the S. end the 
corners were strengthened by 
bastions To this day cannon- 
balls of rounded granite are dug 
out of the ground, and were 
evidently propelled with the am 
of 9 -inch mortar guns. The 
barrels of the blunderbuss 01 
musket with which the Naik’-. 
troops were armed form now the 
bars of the windows in the building 
used at first as a District jail in 
1802, and afterw'ards as a dormi- 
tory of the reformatory school 
located in 1S87 ivithin the Fort. 

When the sovereignty of the 
Vijayanagar house over the Car- 
natic was terminated, about the 
year 1639, by the ^Muhammadan 
king of Golconda, the Chingleput 
\ )istrict was shortly afterwards 
taken possession of by Mir Jumla, 
the General of the King of Gol- 
conda, and, on the fall of Golconda 
in 1687, it passed with the rest of 
the Carnatic into the hands of the 
iMughal Kmperors, The French 
acquired possession of the Chingle- 
put fort in 1751, and it was taken 
by Clive in 1752, He created a 
battery 200 3’ds on the S. 
iide, and made a breach in the 
outer and inner ramparts. In 
two places the gun-shots are still 
visible. During the struggle for 
supremacy in the Carnatic between 
the French and English the latter 
found the Fort valuable as a base 
tor keeping stores, as a place of 
confinement for French prisoners, 
and for harassing the rear of 
Tally’s army, \vhich was investing 


CTT INGLE PUT 573 

^ladras m 1758-9. In June 1758 
it was temporarily evacuated after 
the reduction of Fort St David by 
the French, as the troops were 
, required for Madras, but on the 
, arrival of fresh troops from 
England Chingleput was reoccu- 
pied the same year. 

Chingleput was handed over to 
the English as a in 1760 by 

Muhammad ’Ali, Kawab of Arcot, 
for services rendered, and the 
' grant was confirmed by the 
Mughal Emperor in 1763. 

During the wars with Hyder 
, Chingleput was once taken and 
twice unsuccesstully besieged. On 
, the latter occasion it was relieved 
; by Sir Eyre Coote in January 
1781. Since then the fort has 
remained undisturbed in the hands 
' of tile English It is now partially 
m rums and undisturbed. The 
ro>'al apartments, the granary, 
the barracks and armoury, have 
all been razed to the ground, but 
two old buildings still exist. 

The Raja Mahal is also known 
as They Mahal (Ther=car), for 
the building is in the shape of a 
festival car attached to temples. 
Timma Raja built this “ Ther 
Mahal exactly in the form of 
the Conjeeveram car, and cele- 
brated within the Chingleput 
Eort, on a smaller scale than that 
of Conjeeveram, the Brahma 
Ootlisavam (festival) of Varada 
Raja Swami, one of the presiding 
deities of the Vishnu temple, then 
situated within the Fort of 
Chingleput. On the seventh day 
the car (the Ther Mahal) in the 
Fort was ornamented on the 
outside with flags and bunting in 
the same way as the Conjeeveram 
car was decked, and, after the 
deck'-- all 

the the idol 

was ■■ ■ ■ = 'rt temple 

and placed on a seat on the second 
floor of the Ther Mahal building. 
It is the best architectural relic of 
the Vijayanagar line of Kings, and 
onginall}'' consisted of five storeys 
built in wedding-cake form ; one 



574 


ROTJTK ^5. MADRAS TO TUTICORIN ; GINGRE 


India 


of the hve was subsequently pulled 
down. The unusual height of the 
structure was due to the tact that 
the Ranis of the Palace desired to 
worship daily at 12 o’clock facing, 
with its towers in sight, the 
temple of Conjceveram, the re- 
ligious metropolis of the S., ana 
thus avoid the personal discomfort 
to themselves of attendance at 
its shrine, especially on festival 
days. The time of the puja was 
announced to the Ranis by beating 
of drums from the tops of towers 
erected at intervals of 4 m. on 
the road from Conjeeveram. It 
was in the Ther Mahal that permis- 
sion was given in 1639, by the 
Chiettam of Chingleput, to thr 
mes'^enger ul Air Francis Day to 
erect Fort St George. This quaint, 
solid structure is composed of a 
.senes of arcades of Moorish arches, 
surrounding a small inner dome- 
shaped room without a single 
piece of wood in its entire con- 
•struction. The roof of the dome- 
shaped room m the first storey is 
decorated with plaster work, and 
was evidently used as a nianda- 
dam for the habitation of the house- 
hold deities. The staircases were 
straight, were all located inside, 
and ran parallel to and above 
each other from one storey to 
another. The steps arc extremely 
narrow, but they furnished sufti- 
cient foothold for the small feet 
of the Ranis On a bright day 
the building dazzles the eye when 
the rays of the sun scintillate upon 
its lime-washed walls, once mis- 
taken by an archaeologist for 
marble. 

Another old building is the lower 
storey of the quarters, where the 
Deputy Superintendent of the 
Reformatory School (the model 
school of India) resides. The 
bungalow represents in stone the 
three periods which make up 
Indian history — the Hindu period, 
the Muhammadan period, and the 
English. The lower storey was 
first a Hindu temple, for the use 
of the Prime Minister of the Raja. 


i When the Fort was taken by the 
1 Muhammadans it was partly con 
verted into a mosque, and the 
Muhammadan arch and the Hindu 
I pillar exist side by side. The 
! English period is represented by 
! the upper storey, from the veranda 
of which a picturesque view is 
I obtained, with the lake in front 
j and the hills forming a back- 
I ground. 

There are still frequent visitors 
1 to the Fort, but the object is more 
! or less to see the Reformatory 
1 School. It is within easy reach 
, of Madras by train or motor-car, 
j and occasionally an amateur artist 
; motors up to paint the beautiful 
I colours in the waters of the tank — 

I tlie Fort stands on the margin of a 
I beautiful irrigation reservoir, or 
j tank. There are numerous pic- 
j turesque hills in the neighbour- 
hood 

I This tov/n is the centre of the 
i Tamil Missions of the Free Church 
I of Scotland. 

I 75 m. Tindivanam station (R., 

! D.B.). 

I (i) 16 m. jN'.W. of this station, 

I and 30 m. S W. of Chingleput, is 
i Wandiwash (Vandivasu), where 
I Colonel Eyre Coote signally de- 
i feated Count Lally on 30th 
I November 1759, and practically 
j broke the French power in S. 

1 India. 

j (2) 18 m. \Y. of the Tindiva- 

I nam station by road is Gingee 
j [Chenji), the most famous fort 
I in the Carnatic. Ihe interest of 
j the place is exclusively histori- 
cal. The fortress comprises three 
I strongly-fortified hills connected 
1 by walls of circum valla tion. 

I The highest and most important 
I hill, called Rajagiri, is about 500 ft. 
i or 600 ft. high, and consists of a 
ridge terminating in an over- 
hanging bluff, facing the S., and 
falling with a precipitous sweep to 
the plain on the N. On the 
summit of this bluff stands the 
citadel. On the S.W., where the 
crest of the ridge meets the base 



ROUTE 35 . GINGER — PONDICHERRY 575 


of the bluff, a narrow and steep ra- 
vine probably gave a ditficult mean^, 
of access to the top. across which 
the Hindu engineer built three 
walls, each about 20 ft. or 25 ft 
high, rising one behind the other 
On the N. side the Fort is defended 
by a narrow chasm, artificially 
prolonged and deepened, a wooden 
bridge over it being the only 
means of ingress into the citadel 
through a narrow' stone gatervay 
facing the bridge 

Several ruins of fine buildings 
are situated inside the Fort Of 
these the most remarkable are the 
two pagodas and the Kaliyana 
Mahal, the latter consisting of a 
square court surrounded by rooms 
for the ladies of the Governor’s 
household. In the middle is a 
square tower of eight storey s, w'itli 
a pyramidical roof. 

Other objects of interest are- — 
the great gun on the top of Faja- 
giri, which has the figures 75^0 
stamped on it ; the Raja’s bath- 
ing-stone, a large smooth slab ol 
granite; and the Pyisoners’ Well, 
a very singular boulder about 1 3 
fr. to 20 ft. high, w'ith a natural 
hollow passing through it, poised 
on a rock near the Chakrakulam, 
and surmounted by a low, circular, 
brick wall. 

Gingee was a stronghold of the 
Vijayanagar power, overthrowm 
by the allied Muhammadan Kings 
of the Deccan in 1565 at Talikota 
In 1677 the Fort fell to Sivaji 
by stratagem, and remained in 
Mahratta hands for twenty-one 
years. In 1690 the armies of 
the Delhi Emperor, under Zul- 
fikar Khan, were despatched 
against Gingee wdth a \iew to the 
final extirpation of the Mahratta 
power : the Fort ultimately fell 
m 1698, and became the head- 
quarters of the standing army in 
Arcot. In 1750 the French, under 
M. Bussy, captured it by a daring 
night surprise, and held it with an 
efficient garrison for eleven years, 
defeating one attack by the 
f^nglish in 1752. 


98 m. Villupuram junction 
station (R., D.B.). 

Branch N.W. to \'ellore, Xiru- 
pati, and Renigunta (p. 478), and 
F. to Pondicherry. Adjoining the 
raihvay station there are loco- 
motive workshops. 


24 m. from Villupuram (122 m. 
from Madras) is Pondicherry (Pudu- 
chen) station ★ (46,738 inhabi- 
tants) , long. 77° 9I^ lat. 11° 99'), 
capital of the French establish- 
ments in India, which have an 
extent of 115 sq. m , and a popu- 
lation of 282,386. The means of 
locomotion here is a pousse-pousse. 
w'hich IS like a bath -chair, pushed 
by one or two m^n. The town, 
loiinded 1674 Francois yiartin, 
IS divided by a canal into White ^ 
and Black Towms— the White 
Towm next the sea. The (lover n- 
went House, a handsome building, 
is situated at the N. side ol the 
Place within 300 yds. ot the sea. 
Die Cathedral, built 1855. called 
Notre Dame des Anges, has two 
loftv square towers. The Pier is 
332 metres long In front of the 
entrance to it, ranged in a semi- 
circle, are eight pillars, 38 ft. high, 
of a greyish-blue stone, brought 
from Gingee (see above), w’hich is 
40 m. distant, said to have been 
given to M. Dupleix by the 
Governor of that place. On the 
third pillar on the left side, looking 
toNvards the sea, is an astronomical 
plan by some savants wRo \vere 
charged with fixing the longitude 
of Pondicherry. 50 yds. W. of 
the pier is the Statue of Dupleix 
(Governor 1741-54), on a pedestal 
formed of old fragments of temples 
i brought from Gingee. At the S. 
i end of the promenade is the Hotel 
de Ville, a neat building, and E. of 
' this, on the beach, is a battery of 
i eight small guns. There is also a 
j Lighthouse, w'hich shows a light 
I 80^ It above the sea. The town 
1 ^ 

I 1 I-Ci \ il!e hlriJiulie. 



576 ROUTE 35. MADRAS TO TUTICORIN : PONDICHERRY India 

of Pondicherry is lit by electricity, town surrendered, as the garrison 
The territory of Pondicherry was reduced to 1100 men of the 
comprises 8 communes and 141 line ht for duty, and these 
villages. enfeebled by famine and fatigue. 

In 1672 Pondicherry, then a and with but two days’ provisions, 
small village, was purchased by In 1763 Pondicherry was restored 
the French from the King of to the French. On 9th August 
Bijapur, seventy-one years after 177S Sir Hector Munro, with an 
the first arrival of French ships ! army ot 10,500 men, of whom 
in India. In 1693 the Dutch to(»k i were Europeans, again laid 

Pondicherry, but restored it in j siege to it. On the loth Sir E 
1697 tbe Peace of Ryswick, | \'ernon, with four ships, fought an 
Under Dupleix it increased won- | indecisive battle in the roads with 
derfully. On the 26th of August | live French ships under M. Tron- 
1748 Admiral Boscawen laid siege j jolh\ wlio some days after sailed 
to it with an army of 6000 men, ! off at night, and left the town to 
but was compelled to raise the ; its fate. Pondicherry, after an 
Siege on the 6th of October, with j obstinate defence, vras surrendered 
the loss of 1065 Europeans. The [in the middle of October by 
Frencn garrison consisted of 1800 | ]\[ Bellecombe, the Governor, and 
Europeans an (4 2000 sepoys. On ; shortly after the lortnicaticns wen' 
the 29th of April 1758 M. Lally i destroyed In 17S3 it was re- 
landed at Pondicherry and com- 7 transferred to the French, and on 
menced a war, which ended 1 the 23rd of August 1793 retaken 
ruinously for the French In the ' b}" the British. The Treaty ot 

beginning of July 1760 Colonel i Amiens, 1802, restored it to its 

Coote, with 2000 Europeans and j original masters, whereupon Bona - 
6000 Indians, began to blockade ! parte sent thither General de Caen, 
Pondicherry. On the 9th of with seven other generals, 1400 

September the British army, j regulars, a bodyguard of eighty 

having received reinforcements, i Jiorse, and £100,000 in specie, with 
carried the bound - hedge and I a view, doubtless, to extensive 
two of the four redoubts which j operations in India. His inten- 
def ended it. On the 27th Xovem- tions, however, whatever they may 
ber M. Lally, finding the garrison have been, were defeated by the 

hard pressed by famine, expelled reoccupation of Pondicherry by 

all the Indian inhabitants from the the British in 1803. The place 
town — 1400 in number. These, was then attached to S. Arcot, 
being driven back by the British, and yielded a yearly revenue of 
attempted to re - enter the fort, Rs.45,000. When restored to the 

but were hred on by the French, French in 1817 the population 

and some of them killed. For was only 25,000. 
eight days these persons in despair | The French colony in India is 
wandered between the Unes of the composed of the five estabUsh- 
two hostile armies, subsisting on ments of Pondicherry and Karikal 
the food which they had about on the Coromandel coast, Chander- 
them and the roots of grass. At nagore in Bengal, Yanaon on the 
last, finding Lally inexorable, the Orissa coast, and Mahe on the 
British su tiered them to pass. ’Malabar coast, besides some small 
The hopes of deliverance in the settlements known by the name 
minds of the French were dispelled of loges, of which the principal 
by the arrival of fresh British are at Surat, Patna, Kasimbazar, 
men -of -war from Ceylon and Dacca, Balasore, Masuiipatam, 
Madras, raising the blockading and Calicut. 

fleet again to eleven sail of the The population of the French 
line. On i6th December 1760 the possessions in India, according to 



ROUTE 35. 


PONDICHERRY 


the last general census of 1915, is 
distributed as follows : — 


Area. l-’cr'^on'. 

Pondicherry 113 sq m. 160,487 

Karikal 43 37,867 

Ciiandernagore 3 ,, 27,644 

Yanaon — 

Mahe 26 ,, 10,819 


At the head of the Administration 
there is a Governor, residing at 
Pondicherry, assisted by a Privy 
Council, in which, under the 
Presidency' of the Chief of the 
colony, seats are assigned to the 
Cxeneral Secretary of the Goyern- 
ment, the Procureur General, the 
Chief of the Judicial Service, and 
two Civil members, named ever\' 
two y'ears by decree of the Presi- 
dent of the Republic . Administra- 
tors represent the Governor in the 
smaller possessions The popu- 
lation includes about 1000 French 
and 2000 persons of mixed descent, 
by treaty engagement no French 
troops are maintained m the 
colonies, and no military works 
are erected in them. There is a 
High Court of Appeal, a handsome 
square building, at Pondicherry ; 
and there are courts of first 
instance at Pondicherry, Kari- 
kal, and Chandernagore, and a 
Justice of the Peace at each of 
the live establishments. The De- 
partments of native medical aid 
and public instruction are paid 
almost entirely' from the local 
budget, which amounts to 17 
lakhs of rupees. At Pondicherry 
there is a Colonial College, which 
had in 1915 483 pupils. The five 
establishments have, besides, 163 
Government schools, attended by 
9185 pupils, and 99 free schools, 
•ittended by 5772 pupils. 

Pondicherry possesses five mius 
for cotton spinning and mechani- 
cal weaving, with 71,233 spindles 
and 1622 weaving - frames. The 
five mills employ 6190 workers 
mside the factories and 1189 
Workers outside. There is also 


577 

; an iron foundry', employing 633 
' workers The port of Pondicherry' 

I was visited during 1915 by’ 263 
steamers, 399,131 tons, and by 45 
sailing vessels of 2S76 tons. The 
; imports in 1915 valued 6,187,391 
; francs, and the exports 21,135,197 
I francs. 

i The colony^ enjoys all the politi- 
i cal advantages of the metropoh.':.. 
j and is represented in the Senate 
! and the Chamber of Deputies. 

! It comprises in detail — 

' (i) A consetl general, consisting 

ot twenty'-eight members, 
i responsible for the local 

I budget and every' fiscal 

j tax credited to this 

[ budget. 

I 

; (2) A conseil local for each 

I establishment, respon- 

! sible for attending to its 

; various requirements. 

' (3) Seventeen municipal coun- 

I cilb, representing the in- 

! terests of the communes. 

! These 17 communes of 

i the 5 establishments are 

i distributed as follows : 

I Pondicherry% 8 com- 

i munes ; Karikal, 6 ; 

; Chandernagore, i ; Yan- 

i aon, I ; Mahe, i. 

! 

All these councils are consti- 
tuted bv two groups of separate 
electors : («) Europeans, descen- 

dants of Europeans, and similar 
persons ; (6) the French natives. 

Each group has the right, in prin- 
ciple, to half the seats of the 
j elected body. At the places 
j where the first group is not repre- 
sented by a minimum of twenty' 
i electors the whole number of seats 
' is transferred to the second group : 

I but the case .generally occurs only 
I among the municipal councils of 
j the rural communes. The repre- 
I sentative Deputy is elected by 
! the whole electoral body of the 
two groups together; the repre- 
sentative Senator is elected by the 
members of the elected councils 


20 



India 


57.S ROUTE 35. MADRAS TO TUTICORIN : TRANOUFBAR 


together. The number of electors 
is distributed as loUows : — 


Fust Group 
ist list. 

Pondicherry 496 

Karikal 77 

Chandernagore 26 

Yanaon — 

Mahe 4 


Second (iroup 
2nd list. 

37,920 

10,888 

3.T44 

x,099 

P773 


I 


For Chandernagore and Mahe, 
see pp. 97 and 569 


Karikal (lat. 10° 55^, long. 

79° 52') lies on a branch of the 
Cauvery 12 m N. of Yegapatam, 
and is reached by a line of rail- 
way from Peralam junction on 
the line from Mayaveram to Tiru- 
valur (p. 580), It contains 6 
communes and no villages. 


Tranquehar, 6 m. N. of Karikal, ' 
was a Danish settlement from i6it) 
to 1845, w’^hen it was acquired | 
by the British Government with | 
Serampore. Owing to the railway I 
advantages which its rival Nega- I 
patam possesses, it is now a | 
decaying place. The old fortress, ! 
known as the Danshorg (“ Dan’s j 
Castle”) was founded by O VO Gedde ^ 
on behalf of the Danish E I. Com- ! 
pany in 1620. It has now been 1 
converted into a travellers’ bunga- 
low. A wooden tablet bearing a 
curious monogram of Christian V. 
of Denmark, dated 1677, which 
was formerly fixed in one of 
the rooms in the Dansborg, has 
been removed to the Government 
Museum at Madras. The first 
Protestant mission in India was 
founded at Tranquebar in 1706. 
There are several very old Churches 
in Tranquebar, and some inter- 
esting relics of earlier Christianity 
survive. The old town gateway 
is a quaint structure well worth 
inspecting. 

125 m. Cuddalore Ne'w Towm 
station. Population 56,574 The 
bungalow' knowm as the “ Garden- 
house,” built in 1732-3, is the 
only Collector’s residence in the 


Presidency which is ofticially 
recognised as entitled to fly the 
Union Jack. 

127 m. Cuddalore Old Town 
station (R.). 

From the former station Fort 
St David can most conveniently 
be visited ; it is also nearest to 
the public offices in the civil 
station and the D.B. At the 
Old Town station are the resi- 
dences of a considerable number 
of Europeans, also the jail and 
Church, which is interesting on 
account of the old tombs in and 
about it A small Church has 
recently been built in the New 
Towm, 

Fort St David, ^ m. from New 
Town, is interesting on account of 
its history. From 1690, when it 
was purchased by the East India 
Company, it remained in the 
hands of the British until 1758, 
Clive being Governor in 1756, 
when it w'as besieged and taken, 
after many unsuccessful attempts, 
by the French, only to fall back 
into British hands at the Peace of 
1783. All that now remains of 
the fort are the ditch, the founda- 
tions of the ramparts, and some 
masses of the fallen walls. 

144 m. Porto Novo station. The 
town stands on the N. bank of 
the River Yellar, close to the sea, 
and is called by the Indians 
Mahmud Bandar and Farangi' 
pettai. The Portuguese settled 
liere during the latter part of the 
1 6th century, being the first 
Europeans who landed on the 
Coromandel coast In 167S the 
Dutch abandoned their factory at 
Porto Novo and Devanampatnam 
and went to Pulicat. 

^he chief historical recollection 
which attaches to Porto Novo is 
that, within 3 m. of it to the N., 

1 Bernadotte, aftcruardt. Marshal of 
France and King of Sweden, was captured 
in a sortie from the Fort during the siege 
of 17S3. 



ROUTE 35. PORTC NOVO CHIDAMBARAM 


57 ^ 


close to the seashore, was fought 
one of the most important Indian 
battles of the last century. Sir 
Eyre Coote ^ had arrived at Porto 
Xovo on the igth of June 17S1, 
after having been repulsed the 
day before in an attack on the 
fortified pagoda of Chidambaram, 
which he conducted in person. 
Hyder ’All was encouraged by the 
success of his troops on that 
occasion to hazard a battle, and 
he took up and fortified an advan- 
tageous position on the only road 
by which the British could ad- 
vance to Cuddalore. The British 
force cons>isted of 2000 Europeans 
and 6000 sepoys, and Hyder 'All’s 
lorces of 40,000 Indian'^. Of the 
victory won by the former, 'Sir J 
Malcolm speaks in the following 
terms : '' If a moment was to be 
named when the existence of the 
British power depended upon its 
native troops, we should fix upon 
the Battle of Porto Xovo. Driven 
to the seashore, attacked by an 
enemy exulting in recent success, 
confident in his numbers, and 
strong in the terror of Ins name, 
every circumstance combined that 
could dishearten the small body 
of men on whom the fate of 
the war depended. Xot a heart 
shrank from the trial. Of the 
European battalions it is, of 
course, superfluous to speak, but 
all the native battalions appear 
from every account of the action 
to have been entitled to equal 
praise on this memorable occasion, 
and it IS difficult to say whether 
they were most distinguished when 
suffering with a patient courage 
under a heavy cannonade, vrhen 
receiving and repulsing the shock 
of the flower of HyderT cavalry, 
or when attacking in their turn 

^ Sir Kyre Coott- I'lr-.t dwtDi^ui'iUtd hiHi- 
^elf at Plasscy ; won the great \ictory of 
Wandiwash on 30th Novcinbe 1759 i 
Eondicaeiry in December ijod . uas made 
K.C. L'. in 1771 : vva^ Commander-In-Chief 
in Bengal, 1779 : was sent to Aladras to 
check Hyder ’Ali in November 17S0 ; and 
died, worn out by the campaign, on aSiti 
April 1783. 


the troops of that monarch, who, 
baffled m all his efforts, retreated 
from this field of anticipated 
conquest with the loss of his most 
celebrated commander and thou- 
sands of his bravest soldiers." 

13 1 m. Chidambarani station 
(D.B. i-I m. from station; popu- 
lation 21,327) Once the capital 
of the Chola kingdom. 

The Temples at Chidambaram 
are the oldest in the S. of India, 
and portions of them are gems 
of Dravidian art. The principal 
temple is sacred to Siva, and is 
affirmed to have been erected, or 
at least embellished, by Hiranya 
Varna Chakravarti, the " golden- 
coloured Emperor," who is said 
to have been a leper, and to 
have originally borne the name 
of Swetavarma, the " white-col- 
oured," on account of his leprosy, 
and to have come S. on a pilgrim- 
age. He miraculously recovered 
at Chidambaram after taking a 
bath in the tank in the centre of 
the temple, and thereupon rebuilt 
or enlarged the temples. He is 
said to have brought 3000 Brah- 
mans from the X^. According to 
tradition, Vira Choia Raja (927-77 
A.D.) saw the Sabhapati — 

Siva — dancing on the seashore 
with his wife, Parvati, and erected 
the Kanak Sabha, or golden shrine, 
in memory of the god, who is here 
called Natesa or Naieswar, " God 
of Dancing." The whole area is 
surrounded by two high walls, 
which contain thirty-t^m acres. 
The outer wall of all is 1800 ft. 
long from Xi. to S. and 1480 ft. 
from E. to AV. Nearly m the 
centre of this vast space is a fine 
tank, 315 ft. by 180 ft. At the 
four points of the compass are 
four vast gopurams, those on the 
N. and S. being about 160 ft high. 

XTear the tank is tiie Hall of 
1000 Pillars, which is 340 ft. long 
and 190 ft broad. Mr Fergusson 
[Hisi. of Ind. Arch., 1, 377) makes 
the number of piUars in the hall 
984. This IS One of the very rare 



ROUTE 35. MADRAS TO TUTICORIN : MAYAVERAM 


India 


580 

instances in S. India where the 
so - called Hall of 1000 Pillars 
is almost furnished with that 
number. 

The Teyyiple of Parvaii, known 
as Sivagamiamman, the wife of 
Siva, is principally remarkable for 
its porch, which is of singular 
elegance. The roof is supported 
by bracketing shafts tied with 
transverse purlins till a space of 
only 9 ft. is left to be spanned. 
The outer enclosure in which this 
temple stands is very elaborate, 
with two storeys of pillars. 

Adjoining this Temple of Par- 
vati is one to Siibvahynanya, the 
enclosure of which is 250 ft. by 
305 ft. The images of a peacock 
and two elephants stand before 
it, then a portico with four pillars 
m front, with an inner court. Mr 
Fergusson assigns the end of the 
17th or beginning of the i8th 
century as the date of this temple. 
There is another small one to 
Subrahmanya, and one to Ganesh 
in the corner of the great enclosure. 
There are also several small }nu}i- 
dapams in other parts of the great 
enclosure, and one to the S. of the 
court of Parvati’s Temple. 

The principal temple to Siva is 
about 30 yds S of the lank. In 
the S.W^. corner of this enclosure 
is a temple to Parvati, and in the 
centre of the S, side an idol of 
Nateswar. In the centre of all is 
the sanctuary, which consists of 
two parts. In this is the most 
sacred image of the dancing Siva, 
which is that of a naked giant with 
four arms, his right leg planted 
on the ground and his left lifted 
sideways. The roof of this build- 
ing IS covered with plates of gilt 
copper. There is also a tiny 
shnne, of which Mr Fergusson 
says : “ The oldest thing now 

existing here is a little shnne in 
the inmost enclosure. A porch 
of fifty-six pillars about 8 ft. high, 
and most delicately carved, resting 
on a stylobate, ornamented with 
dancing figures, more graceful and 
more elegantly executed than any 


others of their class, so far as I 
know, in S. India. At the sides 
are wheels and horses, the whole 
being intended to represent a car. 

. . , Whitewash and modern 

alterations have sadly disfigured 
this gem, but enough remains to 
show how exquisite, and conse- 
quently how ancient, it was.” 
This pagoda was surrendered to 
the British in 1 760 without a shot ; 
but in 1781 Hyder ’Ali garrisoned 
it with 3000 men, and Sir Eyre 
Coote was repulsed from it with 
the loss of one gun, 

174 m. from Madras is Maya- 
veram station. The towm, 3 m. 
distant (27,121 inhabitants), is a 
place of pilgrimage in November. 
The Siva Pagoda has one large 
gopuram and one small one. To 
the W. of the Great Gopuram is a 
Teppa Knlam Tank. 

From Mayaveram a line runs S. 
to (24 m.) Tiruvalur, on the line 
from Tan j ore to Negapatam (p. 
585) {54 m.), Mutupet and Pattu- 
kottai (71 m.), and Arantangi 
(93 ni.). 

The richly-endowed Temple 01 
Sn Tyagarajasw^amiat Tiruvalur 
has a fine tank and car. It con- 
trasts curiously with that at 
Tanjore in the principles on which 
it was designed, and serves to 
exemphfy the mode in which, 
unfortunately, most Dravidian 
temples were aggregated. Mr 
Fergusson writes of it {Ind. Arch., 

I. 367) 

The nucleus here was a small 
village temple. It is a double 
shrine, dedicated to Valmikeswara, 
or Siva, and his consort, stand- 
ing in a cloistered court which 
measures igi ft. by 156 ft. over 
all, and has one gopuram in front. 

. . . There is nothing to 

distinguish it from the ordinary 
temples found in every village. 
It, however, at some subsequent 
period became sacred or rich, and 



ROUTE 35. TIRUVALUR KUMBAKOXAM 


A second or outer court was added, 
measuring 470 ft. each way, with 
'two gopurams, higher than the 
original one, and containing within 
its walls numberless little shrines 
and porches. Additions were 
again made at some subsequent 
date, the whole being enclosed 
in a court 957 ft. by 726 ft., this 
time with five gopurams . . and 


581 

available, it would have been 
completed to the typical extent. 

The general effect of such a 
design as this may be gathered 
from the woodcut bird’s-eye view. 
As an artistic design, nothing can 
be worse. The gatev/ays irregu- 
larly spaced in a great blank wall 
lose half their dignity from their 
positions ; and the bathos of 



several important shrines. When 
the last addition was made, it was 
intended to endow the temple with 
one of those great halls which 
were considered indispensable in 
temples of the first class. Gencr- | 
ally they had, or were intended j 
to have, 1000 columns ; this one I 
has only 807, and almost one-half | 
of these mere posts, not fitted to j 
carry a roof of any sort. There j 
can, however, be very little doubt j 
that, had time and money been * 


their decreasing in size (see p 5 82) 
and elaboration as they approach 
the sanctuary is a mistake which 
nothing can redeem.” (See also 
p. civ of the In trod.) 

194 m. Kumbakcnam station 
(R., D.B.), in the Tanjore Dis- 
trict (population 64,647). The 
pagodas stand near the centre 
of the town, and about i m. 
from the station. The most in- 
teresting temples at Kumbakonam 


rr 



532 


ROUTE 35. madras to TUTICORlN : TAXJORE 


India 


3-re tile Sa-rango-pani, jBanapuris- 
vara, i^amasvami, Nagesvara^ and 
the Kumbhesvara. The largest 
pagoda IS dedicated to Vishnu, 
and the Great Gopuram here has 
eleven storeysl The total height 
IS it. A street arched over 
and 330 ft long and 15 ft. broad, 
with shops on either side. leads to 
the Siva Pagoda, or Temple of 
ivumbeshwara. 

To the E. side of the road from 
the station to the temples is the 
Mahamokam Tank—a. fine tank 
into which it is said the Ganges 
nows once in twelve years, the 
last occasion having been 6th 
march 1909. On these occasions 
so vast a concourse of people enter 
the water to bathe that the sur- 
face rises some inches The tank 
has sixteen small but picturesque 
pagodas studding its banks. The 
principal one is on the N. side of 
the tank- 

The Goveynmeyit College at Kum- 
bakonam was formerly one of the 
leading educational institutions in 
India, and procured for the town 
the distinction of being called the 
Cambridge of Southern India. 


Tanjore junction station 
(K., D.B-)- [Branch 48 m. E tc 
hiegapatam, see p. 385] Lat. 10^ 
47 , long 79° [O'. Population 
00,341. The delta of the Cauverv 
^ver, near the head of w^hich 
-lanjore stands, is considered the 
garden of Southern India It 

population, and 
IS highly irngated. 

thJ^rh^f°^°? countri- was under 
tiuring the whole of 
peir supremacv. Venkaji, the 
broper of Sivaji, the Great 
Mahratta, reduced Tanjore nm- 
independent, and 
established a JIahratta dynastv 

tirs'Gilf The British 

pllce bv th with the 

a -toratioA-^o^f 

In 1758 it was attacked by tiie 
^ bee Fcr^ubiOti’.-, Ind Arch., i. ,c-. 


French under Laily, who extorted 
large suras from the reigning 
jMahratta Raja. Colonel Joseph 
Smith captured the fort in 1773, 
and again in 1776 it was occupied 
by the English. 

Raja Sarabhoji, by a treaty in 
1779, ceded the dependent terri- 
tory to the British, retaining only 
the capital and a small tract o± 
j country around, which also at last 
lapsed to the Government in 1855, 
on the death of the then ruler. 
Raja Sivaji, without legitimate 
male issue. '' For ages Tanjore 
has been one of the chief political, 

I literary, and religious centres of 
I the South Its monuments of 
I Hindu art and early civilisation 
are of first importance," 

The Little Fori contains the 
Great Temple, which, with the 
Palace of the Raja in the Great 
Fort and Schwartz ‘s Church, are 
the sights of Tanjore, The two 
For is of Tanjore, which are much 
dismantled, are so connected that 
they may be almost regarded as 
one. On a rampart there is a 
huge cannon called Raja Gopal. 

. 24 ft. in length, 10 ft. in its outer 
circumference, and 2 ft. in its 
bore, which has only once been 
fired. 

The Great Pagoda. — The en- 
trance is under a gopuram 90 ft. 
high. Then follow a passage 170 
ft. long, and a second gopuram 
of smaller dimensions. There is 
a long inscription in Tamil charac- 
ters of the 4th century on either 
side of the passage through the 
second gopuram. From this the 
outer enclosure of the temple is 
entered. It is 415 ft. by 800 ft , 
and is surrounded by cloister 
chapels, each containing a large 
lingam. Visitors may walk every- 
where in the enclosure, but cannot 
enter the Great Temple or the 
halls of approach to it. though 
the sanctity of the temple was 
destroyed by its occupation on 
one occasion bv the French. On 
the right is the Yapiasala, a place 
where sacrifices are otfered, and 



ROUTE 35 

the Sabhapati Kovil, or Shrine of 
Siva, as the presiding god of an 
assembly. There are two Bah- 
pi rams, or altars, close to the E 
wall, one inside and one outside ; 
and at about 40 ft. from the E. 
wall IS a gigantic Xandi (bull) in 
black granite, a monolith 12 it 
10 in. high and 16 ft. long, sculp- 
tured out of a solid block of rock, 
said to have been brought a dis- 
tance of 400 m. It is daily 
anointed with oil, which makes it 
shine like the finest bronze. \V. ol 
this again is the Kodi Mar am, 
or Great Temple, the most beau- 
tiful and effective of all Dra vidian 
temples A portico supported by 
three rows of pillars leads to two 
halls 75 ft. by 70 ft. each ; beyond 
these is the adytum, 56 it by 
54 ft., over which rises the \'ast 
tower of the vunana, 200 ft high, 
including the great monolithic 
dome-shaped top and the Sikva, 
or spiked ornament. X E of the 
Great Tower is the Chandikasan 
Kovil, or shrine of the god who 
reports to the chief god the arrival 
of worshippers. \V. of this, at the 
N.W. corner of the outer enclo- 
sure, is the SiibrahKiauya Kovil, 
Shrine of Kartikkeya, the son of 
Siva and deity of war, who is called 
Subrahmanya (from sii, good, I 
brahman, a Brahman) because he 
IS so good to Brahmans and their 
especial protector. Mr Fergusson 
says of this wonderful shrine that 
it “is as exquisite a piece of 
decorative architecture as is to 
be found in the S. oi India, and 
though small, almost divides our 
admiration with the temple itself 
(Ind. Aich , I. 365). It consists 
of a tower 55 ft. high, raised on 
a base 45 ft. sq., adorned with 
pillars and pilasters, which orna- 
ment IS continued along a corridor 
50 ft. long, communicating with a 
second building 50 ft. sq. to the E. 
Dr Burnell considers tlie Subrah- 
manya Temple to be not older 
than the commencement of the 
ibth century. Its beautiful carv- 
ing seems to be m imitation of 


TANjoRE 5S3 

I wood. ‘‘ Against one of its outer 
walls is placed a water - spout. 
I The water which flows from it is 
! poured over the idols inside, and 
■ IS drunk by worshippers as a 
meritorious and purifying act.” 

The base of the grand temple — 
' i.e., the I'lniLUia and halls leading 
' to it — is covered with inscriptions 
in the old Tamil of the nth cen- 
tury, which Dr Burnell deciphered. 

' The pyramidal tower over the 
' vim a nil has evidently often been 
' repaired in its upper part, where 
' the images of gods and demons 
, with v'hich it is covered are now 
; only of cement. This tower is 
; only 3S ft. lower than the Kutb 
! Minar at Delhi. Many pictur- 
' esque views of it are obtained 
: across the moat and walls of the 
! fort, and it is well worth while 
' making the w'hole circuit of these. 

I Dr Burnell says m his pamphlet, 

I The Great Temple of Tanjoic : 
“ This temple is really the most 
remarkable of ail the temples in 
the extreme S. of India ; is one 
of the oldest ; and as it has been 
preserved with little alteration, it 
not, perhaps, the largest, it is the 
best specimen of the style oi 
architecture peculiar to India S. 
of Madras. 

“ This style arose under the 
Chola for Tanjore) Kings in the 
nth century a.d , when nearly 
all the great temples to Siva in S. 
India \vere built, and it continued 
m use in the 12th and 13th cen- 
turies, during which the great 
temples to Vishnu wau'o erected. 
Fp to the beginning of the i6th 
century these temples remained 
almost unchanged, but at that 
time all S. India became subject 
to the Kings of Vijayanagar, and 
one oi these, named Krishnarava 
(15U9-30), rebuilt or added to 
most of the great temples of the 
S. Tlie chief feature of the 
.irchitecture ol this later period 
IS the construction of the enor- 
mous g o p u r a m s w^ h i c h are 
so conspicuous at Conjeeveram, 
Chidambaram, and Sri Rangam. 



584 ROUTE 35. MADRAS 

All these were built by Knsh- 
naraya ; they do not form part 
of the original st\’le, but were 
intended as fortifications to pro- 
tect the shrines from foreign 
invaders, and certain plunder and 
desecration, as the Hindus first 
discovered on the Muhammadan 
invasion of 1310 A d." 

The Palace of the Princess ot 
Tanj ore. —This building is in the 
Great Fort, lying E. oi the Little , 
Fort The Palace is a vast build- 
ing of masonry, and stands on 
the left of the street, which runs 
Xorthward through the fort ; it ; 
was built about 1550 a d. After ' 
passing through two quadrangles ' 
a third is entered, on the S side 
of which is a building like a ' 
gopuram, 190 ft. high with eight j 
storeys. It was once an armoury, i 
Mr Fergusson writes {Ind. Arch., 

I, 416) of this tower: "As you 
approach Tanj ore, you see two 
great vimanas not unlike each 
other in dimensions or outline, 
and at a distance can hardly dis- 
tinguish which belongs to the great 
temple. On closer inspection, 
howe\'er, that of the Palace turns 
out to be made up of dumpy 
pilasters and fat balusters, and 
ill-designed mouldings of Italian 
architecture, mixed up with a 
few details of 3 Indian art ! a 
more curious and tasteless lunible 
can hardly be found in Calcutta 
or Luckno^v." On the E. of the 
quadrangle is the Telugu Darbav- 
Yoom of the Xayakkar Kings. On 
the sides of a platform of black 
granite are sculptured in alto- 
relievo Surs and Asurs fighting. 
On this platform stands a white 
marble statue, by FlaxinanJ of 
Sarabhoji, the pupil of Schwartz, 
and the last Raja but one. He 
IS standing w'lth the palms of his 
hands joined as if in prayer, and 
he wears the curious triangular 
pointed cap used by the Tanj ore 

I 'ihe 'J Gazetteer uf 190; ijiate-. ili.it 

this marble statue uai b\, Cliatitiei aud not 
by Flax man 


TO TUTicoRiN : TANjoRE India 

Princes in the last half-century of 
their rule. On the wall are a 
picture of Lord Pigot and numer- 
ous pictures of the Rajas, and a 
fine bust of Nelson, presented to 
the Raja by the Hon. Anne 
Seymour Darner, whose w’ork it 
is. On the opposite side of the 
quadrangle is the Library, in 
which is a remarkable collection ot 
18,000 Sanskrit MSS,, of which 
8000 are written on palm leaves. 
This library is unique in India, 
and dates from the end of the 
1 6th or beginning of the 17th 
century. In the Mahratta Darhar, 
which IS in another quadrangle, is 
a large picture of Sivaji, the last 
Raja, with his chief secretary and 
his Diwan. 

E. again lies Schwartz s Church, 
close to the Sivaganga Tank. 
Over the gate is the date 1777' 
and over the facade of the church 
is 1779 A.D. In the centre, 
opposite the communion - tabic, 
IS a very fine group of figures in 
' w'hite marble, by Flaxman, repre- 
senting the death of Schwartz 
The aged missionary is extended 
on his bed, and on his left stands 
the Raja Sharfoji, his pupil, with 
two attendants, while on his right 
is the missionary Kohlmer, and 
near the bottom of the bed are 
four boys. The inscription con- 
I tains a summary of his career. 

! The small house N.W. of the 
! church, and close to it, is said to 
have been Schw^artz s habitation. 

' Next to the Sivaganga Tank is 
, the People's Park. On a high 
; bastion not far from this is a 
' monster gun called the Kaja 
! Gopala. 24^ ft. long, and with a 
J bore of nh ft. Other buildings of 
I interest to the visitor at Tanjore 
I are the Sangita Mahal, a miniature 
I of the surviving Court of Tirumala 
i Nayak’s Palace in Madura ; the 
I Arsenal or Armoury ; and the 
! Clock-tower, so called on account 
i of a curious device for marking 
; the time, wLich was once fixed in 
i it, but has now been removed, as 
j it was found to be unsafe. 



ROUTE 35. TANJOKE— NEG.APATAM TRICHINOPOLY 585 


llie Tanjore District was the 
scene of the earliest labours of 
Protestant missionaries in India 
In 1706 the German missionaries 
Zie.i^enbalg and Pliitscliau estab- 
lished a Lutheran mission in the 
Danish settlement of Tranquebar, 
under the patronage of Kini; 
hrederick IV. of Denmark ; and 
m 1 84 1 their establishments were 
taken over by the Leipzig Evan- 
gelical Lutheran Mission, which 
subsequently extended its opera- 
tions into the District The mis- 
sion at Tanjore was founded in 
177^ by the Rev. C. F. Schwartz, 
of the Tranquebar ^Mission, who 
some time previously had trans- 
ferred his services to the Society 
for Promoting Christian Know- 
ledge. The mission establishments 
at Tanjore were taken over in 
1826 by the Society for the Pro 
pagation of the Gospel, which sub- 
sequently founded new stations 
m several parts of the District, 

Ppman Catholic missions in 
lanjore date from the first half 
of the 17 th centurv. Their 
churches and chapels are scat- 
tered over the whole District, but 
their principal seats are Nega- 
patam, Velanganni (on the coast, 
d m. S. of Negapatam), Tanjore, 
Vallain, and Kumbakonam. The 
St Joseph's College, founded by 
French Jesuits at Xegapatam in 
1846, was removed to Trichino- 
poiy in 18S3. 

Tanjore is famous for its silk, 
carpets, jewellery repous'.e work, 
copper ware, and models in pith. 
The repousse work, and the copper 
work inlaid with brass and silver 
swdmt (or god) figures, are among 
the best in all India. 

Negapatam (R. ; population 
60,168), 48 m. E. from Tanjore 
and 14 m. E. of Tiruvalur junction 
(P- 580), is a flourishing port doing 
a brisk trade (exports, ^773, 556 ; 
imports, 436, 463) with the Straits 
Settlements and Coast Ports, and 
contains the large workshops of 
the S.I. Railway. It was one of 


. the earliest settlements of the 
I Portuguese, was taken by the 
Dutch in 1660 and by the IBritish 
in 1781. The Dutch Church and 
the old graves in the cemeter\’ are 
interesting. Steamers belonging 
to the B.I.S X. Company run once 
, j v/eek to Colombo nd Pamban. 

' Ramesvaram is now more con- 
' veniently reached by railway from 
I Madura, as Colombo itself will 
, probably be shortly (see p. 594). 
j The line runs on from Negapatam 
I to 

I 53 m Nagore. 

I 2 48 m. Trichinopoly junction 

j station (R.) ^ (branch W. to 
{ Erode, p. 560) (D.B. ; population 
I of the city, 123,512). The name is 
j properly Tirusirapalli, or the “City 
of the Three - headed Demon.*’ 
St John’s Church, in which Bishop 
Reginald Heber is buried, is close 
i to the station ; the grave in the 
; chancel is marked by a fine brass. 
The bath in which he accidentally 
met with his death in 1826 is 
near the house and court of the 
Judge of Trichinopoly. Xear the 
same spot is a monument erected 
in memory of H G. D. Harding, 

; I.C.S , District and Sessions Judge, 

I who was murdered by a fanatic, 

I as he descended from his carriage 
! to enter the Court on 22nd Feb- 
{ ruary 1916. The two historic 
' masses of granite, the Golden Rock 
and the Fakir’s Rock, are in the 
t plain to the S. Close to the former 
is the Central JaiL Xear it the 
French were defeated in two en- 
gagements in the second siege, 

' which followed at once on the first. 

' and the demand of the Mysore 
: General that the town should be 
! made over to him. 

3 m. S.W. of Trichinopoly is the 
fortified pagoda which was occu- 
pied by the French in 1753, and 
recaptured by the British under 
i Colonel Stringer Lawrence. 

251 m Trichinopoly Fort station 
i on the Erode Branch. The Fort 



5S6 ROUTE 35. MADRAS TO 

has been dismantled, but this part 
of the town is still known as the 
fort.” 

It will be remembered that it 
was to relieve the Siege of Trichin- 
opoly — in which the English can- 
didate for the Nawabshxp of Arcot, 
Muhammad "Ali, was beleaguered 
by Chanda Sahib — that Clive 
seized tile Fort of Arcot in 1751 
(see p 538). 

In November 1753 the French 
made a night attack on the Fort, 
and succeeded in entering the 
outer line of fortifications at 
Dalton’s Battery at the N.W 
angle. Here there was a pit 
30 ft. deep, into which many of 
the assailants fell. Their screams 
alarmed the garrison, who repelled 
them, and made 360 of the French 
prisoners. This portion of the 
old Fort is all that has been left 
standing. The moat that sur- 
rounded it has been filled in and | 
planted as a boulevard. I 

On the N. side of the town, with 
a temple on it, is the Rock. At ( 
the foot of the W. side is a hand- I 
some Teppa Kiilavn tank with 
stone steps and a niandapain, or 
pavilion, in the centre. At the 
S.E. corner of this tank are a 
square corner-house, and adjoining 
it a house with a porch. In one 
of these Chve lived, but it is not 
certain in which. The house used 
as a hostel by the Jesuit Mission 
bears a medallion with an inscrip^ 
tion stating that Robert (after- 
wards Lord] Chve occupied it, 
^rca 1752. The most striking 
buildings on this side of the town 
Jobepli's College and the 
b.P.G. College, both first-grade 
nistitutions. The former is situ- ! 
ated in the N.W. corner of the I 
tort, near the Main Guard Gate, i 
ft was founded by the Jesuit 1 
Mission in 1844 at Negapatam. i 
and was transferred to Trichm- : 
opoly in 1883, when Father Sewell ' 
who embraced the R.C. faith after ^ 
fus retirement from the annv in ' 
r«77 with the rank of Major." be- 
came the Manager of the College, l 


TUTicoRiN : TRiCHiNOPOl.Y India 

- It flourished under liis manage- 
[ ment, and he was largely instru- 
! mental in the development of 
! Trichinopoly as an educational 
centre. He died in Madras m 
j 1915. aged 78, and was buried m 
; the College Chapel. The S"P.G. 
College was the development of 
various schools founded in the i8th 
century by the Rev. C.F. Schwartz 
of the S.P.C K. It is situated E. 
j of the ^fain Guard Gate, and just 
I opposite the Teppa Kulam. In 
; 1762 Schwartz visited Trichin- 
j opoly and founded the first English 
j Church in 1765-6. This is called 
i Christ Church and stands opposite 
I to the Caldwell Hostel on the way 
j to Sri Ran gam. Schw^artz re- 
I mained for many years in Trich- 
j inopoly and died in Tanjore in 
1798, aged 72, The ascent of the 
Rock is by a covered passage 
which leads up to the top from the 
S. ; and on the sides of the passage 
are stone elephants and pillars 
about iS ft. high, which bear the 
stamp of Jain architecture. The 
pillars have carved capitals repre- 
senting the lion of the S. and 
v^anous figures of men and women 
The frieze above is ornamented 
wfith carvings of animals. Flights 
of very steep steps, 290 in number, 
j coloured white wfith red stripes, 

I lead through this passage to the 
' vestibule of a Saiva temple on the 
I left, whence on certain days the 
I images of the gods — viz., of Siva, 
f Parvati, Ganesh, and Subrah- 
' many a or Skanda — are carried in 
J procession. In front of the temple 
I is a huge Nandi bull covered with 
t silver plates, which must be very 
valuable. The temple ajid the 
original Fort were built by a 
Madura Prince m 1660-70. The 
cave temples, cut into the rock on 
the left side of the steps, are worth 
visiting. The pillars m these 
temples bear archaic inscriptions 
in Pallava characters. The steps 
of the ascent were the scene of a 
terrible disa^iter in 18.^) A \ast 
(. n'jwd ha<i assembled to worship 
Gauesh, here called Pilliar, or 



KOUTE rRICHINOPOLY — SRI RAN GAM 


tile “ Sou.'" A panic arose, and 
in the crush which ensued 500 
people were killed. From the 
temple the stairs turn E. and lead 
out on to the surface of the Rock, 
up which a rough approach has 
been cut to the mandopam, or 
pavilion, crowning the top, from 
which there is one of the finest 
panoramic views to be seen in 
the plains of India. On all sides 
the eye traverses the plain for 
20 111. or 30 m. The height of the 
Rock IS only 236 ft , but the plain 
is so flat that this height is suffi- 
cient to dominate a vast expanse 
of country. On the S. the most 
conspicuous object is the Golden 
Rock, about 100 ft. high. Carry- 
ing the eye to the S.E. of this rock, 
n patch of low, rocky ground is 
seen about 40 ft. high. This is 
French Rocks, about 2 m, from the 
fort. Within the town, distant 
only a few hundred yards, is the 
NawaFs Palace, which has been ! 
restored by Government, and is 1 
used for courts and public offices, i 
To the N. of the Fort Rock is the | 
broad shallow bed of the Cauvery, I 
in which, except in the rams, there ■ 
IS but a narrow streak of w^ater. | 
Beyond is the Island of Sn Ran- j 
gam, which the French occupied 
for several ^^ears, taking up their 
quarters in the two great temples, 
that of Sri Rangam to the W., and 
that of Jambukeswar to the E ; 
Owing to dense groves the temples . 
are not very distinctly seen, j 
Beyond to the N. in the far dis- ■ 
tance rises a long line of hills. ITo , 
the N W. is the Tale Malai range, 1 
the greatest height of which is j 
1800 ft. ; while due N. of the Fort ; 
Rock are the Kale IMalai Hills, ' 
which attain 4000 ft. ; and E. of ’ 
these are the Pachal Malais 
(Green Hills) , which in some parts i 
rise to 2300 ft. Turning to the W. j 
the old Chola capital of Uratyttr 
is seen, where there was once a 
('antonment. 

The most important local In- i 
diistries are weaving and tobacco | 
and cigar making The cigars are ' 


well known, though the so-called 
Trichmopoly cheroots come for 
the most part from Dindigal. The 
silver and gold manufactures are 
famous, the local gold and silver 
smiths being very successful in 
their filigree Avork. 


About 2 m. N. from the Rock, 
on an island, 17 m. long and i|: m. 
broad, formed by a bifurcation of 
the River Cauvery, is the town of 
Sri Rangam {24,799 inhabitants). 
A bridge of thirty- two arches joins 
the mainland to the island on 
the S. 


The Great Temple of Sri Rangam 
IS about I m. N.W. of the bridge. 
The entrance is on the S. side 
of the temple, b}" a grand gate- 
way, 48 ft. high, which appears to 
have been built as the base of a 
great gopuram. The sides of the 
passage are lined with pilasters 
and ornamented. The passage is 
about 100 ft. long, and the inner 
height, exclusive of the roof, is 
43 ft Vast monoliths have been 
used as uprights in the construc- 
tion, some of them over 40 ft. 
high. The stones on the roof, 
laid horizontally, are also huge. 
The stone on the inside of the 
arch is 29 ft. 7 in. long, 4 ft. 

3 in. broad, and about 8 ft. 
thick. From the terrace at the 
top of the gateway is seen the 
vast outer wall which encloses the 
gardens as well as the buildings 
of this the largest temple in India. 
The outer enclosure, 2475 It. 
by 2SS0 ft., contains a bazar. 
Within this is a second wall 20 ft. 
high, enclosing the dwellings of 
the Brahmans in the service of 
the temple. The general design 
IS marred by the fact that the 
buildings dimmish in size and 
importance from the exterior to 
the innermost enclosure ; and 
IMr Fergusson say& . " If its prin- 
ciple of design could be reversed, it 
would be one of the finest temples 



jSS ROUTE 35. MADRAS TO TUTICORIN : ANIKUTS India 


in the S of India.” ^ This view 
has been criticised by an authority 
who considers the arrangements 
entirely fitting, as the innermost 
shrine should naturally be the 
smallest in size. There are 
two great gopurams on the E. 
side, two smaller on the \V., and 
three of a medium height on the 
S. Beyond the incomplete gopu- 
ram the road passes under a small 
mandapam, and then through a 
gopuram about 60 ft. high. The 
decoration of the gopurams is all 
painted, and the ceiling of this 
one represents the Varaha, or 
Boar Incarnation, of Vishnu, as 
well as other Avataras with mul- 
titudes of human beings ador- 
ing them. A second mandapam 
is then passed, and a second 
and third gopuram. Hard by is 
another enclosing wall, which sur- 
rounds the more sacred part, or 
real temple, beyond which is the 
vimana, or adytum, which none 
but Hindus are allowed to enter. 
At a third 'mandapam the jewels 
of the temple may be examined. 

In the court round the central 
enclosure is the so-called Hall oj 
1000 Pillars. The actual number 
is about 940. (Mr Fergusson 
counted g6o, but the number is 
now much reduced.) They are 
granite monoliths 18 ft. high, 
with pediments, slightly carved 
to the height of 3 ft., and they all 
have the plantain bracket at the 
top. The pillars of the front row 
looking N. represent men on 
rearing horses spearing tigers, the 
horses" feet being supported by 
the shields of men on foot beside 
them. The carved horses spring 
out from the pillars, all being 
carved from one block. The great 
gopuram on the N. is 152 ft. high. 
In the floor of the passage under 
this gopuram is a stone with a 
Kanarese inscription. IMr Fer- 
gusson is of opinion that the 
buildings were under construction 


^ See I, 368 of his 
an illustration and a 
temples will be found 


I mi. Arck , where 
description of the 


from the loth century to 1600 

A.D.^ 

Temple of Jambukeswar. — In 
the S. of India temples are often 
found in pairs If there is one 
dedicated to Vishnu, there will be 
one dedicated to Siva. So here, 
at about i| m. E. of the Great 
Temple of Sri Rangam, is a 
smaller one sacred to Jambukes- 
war, or Siva, ivovcijamhuka, “ rose- 
apple,” and iswar, “ lord/" or 
Lord of India, Jambu being a 
division of the world = ” India 

The Jambukeswar Temple has 
three courts, and is very much 
smaller than Sn Rangam ; it has 
been lately restored by Ramasami 
Chettiar. The plan, however, of 
the building is more artistic, and 
the main corridor and proportions 
are fine. On the right of the 
entrance is an upright stone 4 ft. 
high, with a long Tamil inscrip- 
tion. The first gopuram is also 
the gateway of entrance. The 
ceiling is painted with flowers of 
the lotus Within the inner court 
is a remarkable Teppa Kulam, or 
tank, of spring water, with a 
pavilion in the centre. Round 
the S , the E , and the N. sides, 
run a corridor of tw^o storeys sup- 
ported by pillars. Beyond this is 
a second gopuram, and a third 
which forms part of the wall 
enclosing the adytum. Thence a 
broad corridor leads to the vimana. 
On the whole, this is a very fine 
temple, and well worth a visit. It 
is,^ no doubt, older than that of Sri 
Rangam — probably about 1600 
A.D. 


The Anikuts, or dams. — xVbout 
9 m. to the W. of Trichinopoly 
the Cauvery separates into two 
branches, which enclose the island, 
the N. branch being called the 
Coleroon or Kolidun, and the S. 
the Cauvery. A dam was con- 
structed across the Coleroon in 
18 ^6 to ]irevent the river deserting 

^ Ind Atch.. I, 373. 



ROUTE 35. DINDIGAL- 

the S. arm, from which a number 
of branches irrigate Tanjore, the 
chief one being called the Vennar, 
which falls into the sea 20 m. S, 
of the spot where the Coleroon 
disembogues. The dam or Anikut, 
which was designed by Sir Arthur 
Cotton, R.E., consists of three 
parts, being broken by two islands. 
It is a brick wall 7 ft. high and 
6 ft. thick, capped with stone, and 
is based on tw’o rows of wells 
sunk 9 ft. below the river's bed. 
It is defended by an apron of cut 
stone from 21 ft. to 40 ft. broad, 
and has twenty-four sluices, which 
help to scour the bed. It controls 
the irrigation of about 600,000 
acres About 9 m. E of Trichi- 
nopoly is the Grand Anikut, an 
ancient work, and below that is the 
Lower Anikut, also built in 1836. 

One of the most interesting 
irrigation features of the District 
IS the Koramhu system. Above 
the Anikuts {i e., W of them) 
irrigation channels take off hush 
with the river. Thev get a supply 
when the river is full. But when 
the river goes down Korambus are 
built— ?.e., temporary dams of 
brushwood, piles, earth, etc.— to 
catch up some water and divert 
it into the channels. If a fresh 
comes they are swept away and 
have to be put up again. Tluey 
do not go across the river, nor do 
they follow a straight line ; they 
are accommodated to the needs of 
the moment— he., to catchup any 
water that may be catchable 

306 m. Dindigal station (R ), a 
municipal town {25,052 inhabi- 
tants) m the Madura Collectorate. 

It has a considerable tobacco 
manufacture. There are several 
tanneries, and a large cotton 
ginning and pressing factory under 
European management. The great 
rock on which the fort is built forms 
a conspicuous object; its summit 
is 1223 ft. above sea-level, 280 ft. 
above the plain. Its inaccessible 
sides were strongly fortified under 
the first Nayakkan Kings of 


-KODAIKANAL MADURA 5S9 

i Aladura, and for a long time it was 
: the W. key of the Province of 
, IMadura. Dmdigal was taken by 
I the British from Tipu Sultan in 
i 1781, restored to him in 1783, and 
i finally ceded in 1792. Dindigal 
i enjoys a mild and salubrious 
climate. A motor - car service 
connects it with Palni, 36 m. to 
the W. — a great place of pil- 
grimage, 

319m. Ammayanayakkanur sta- 
tion, or Kodaikanal Road.^ The 
distance to Kodaikanal (popula- 
tion 2906) IS 50 m. by road. A 
motor service runs in the season. 
This station, which enjoys a 
growing popularity, is 7209 ft. 
above sea-level, and its climate is 
more even than that of Ootaca- 
mund. The scenery round it is 
not very picturesque, but there 
are places where the views of the 
low country and the Animalei 
Hills to the W. are beautiful past 
description. Game (both big and 
small) is obtainable on the hills, 
but IS not easy to get. Nutmeg, 
cinnamon, and pepper- vine grow 
wild. Orange - trees, hme - trees, 
citron, and sago are cultivated. 
The observatory, moved from 
Madras in 1889, stands 7700 ft. 
above sea-level. 

Ammayanayakkanur is also the 
station for the Travancore hills, 
and for the Periyar lake, 80 m. 

344 m. Madura station (R., 

D. B.; population 134,130), 
upon the Vatgat River, the capital 
of the Pandya Kings, one of whom 
sacked Anuradhapura c. 155 a.d. 

(p 681). A Jesuit mission settled 
here in 1606. From Madura may 
be visited caverns and rock-cut 
Jama figures at Anaimalei and 
Alagarmalai, headquarters of the 
Districts of Madura and Ramnad. 

The Great Temple ^ (about J m. 

E. of the railway station) forms 
a parallelogram about 847 ft, 

1 See Fer^u^ >011 • /^i.l Atil‘ i. -^91, 







PLAN OF THE MADURA TEMPLE. 

Key to the Plan. 

A Shrine of God Sundareswar. 

AA Pudu mandapam (Tirumala’s Choultry). 
B Shrine of Goddess Minakshi-devi. 

C Small shrine of Ganeja. 

D Small shrine of Subrahmanya. 

E Vedi or Altar. 

F Nandi Pavilion. 

G Javandhvara mandapam. 

H Navagraha or nine planets, 

I Large Ganeia. 

J j Shrines of Nate-ivar, 

K Poet’s College. 

L Tank of Golden Lilies. 

M Mudali Pillai mandapam. 

O Ashta .S'akti hall. 

P i6 pillar mandapam. 

Q Thousand pillar mandapam. 

R Viravasantaraya mandapam. 

S Katyana Sundara mandapam. 

T Ser\aikaran mandapam. 

U Lingam. 

W Chitra mandapam. 

Y Ellamvatta-siddha. 

Z Madura Nayaka temple. 

I-IV Four outer Gopurams. 

V Tiruvachi Gopuram. 

\''I, Vm, IX Three Gopurams of the 
second Prakara. 

X. XI, Gates to the Minakshl prakdrdm, 

VII, Gate between the temples, 

XII, Ashta-6'akti mandapam. 



59 - 


India 


ROUTE 35. MADRAS TO TUTICORIN 


by 729 ft., surrounded by nine 
gopurams, of which the largest is 
152 ft. high. All the most beau- 
tiful portions of the temple as it 
now stands were built by Tiru- 
mala Nayak, who succeeded in 
1623, and reigned gloriously 
thirty-six years. It consists of 
two parts — on the S. a temple to 
Minakshi, “ the fish - eyed god- 
dess,’^ the consort of Siva ; and 
on the N. one to Siva, here called 
Sundareswar, the legend being 
that the god under this form 
married the daughter of the local 
Pandya Chief, an event celebrated 
by the annual car festival. Owing 
to the facilities accorded for visit- 
ing all the outer courts and 
corridors up to the doors of the 
t^o adyta, this temple is perhaps 
the most interesting to visit of 
all the Hindu shrines of India, and 
gives one the most complete idea 
of Hindu ritual. It should be 
visited at night as well as in the 
daytime, the dark corridors with 
a lamp gleaming here and there 
being pecuUarly wicked then. 
The entrance is only by the gate 
of Minakshi 's Temple, through a 
painted corridor about 30 ft. long, 
which is called the Hall of the 
Eight Saktis, from eight statues of 
that goddess which form the sup- 
ports of the roof on either side ; 
in it various dealers ply their 
trade. On the right of the gate 
at the end of the hall is an image 
of Subrahmanya, or Kartikkeya, 
the Hindu JNIars. On the left is 
an image of Ganesh. This gate- 
way leads to a second stone corri- 
dor, with rows of pillars on either 
side, called the Minakshi Nayaka 
Mandapam, built by Minakshi 
Nayak, Diwan of the predecessor 
of Tirumala, where the elephants 
are kept. Some of the pillars 
have for capitals the curved plan- 
tain-flower bracket, but much of 
the detail is hidden by the stall 
shops. At the end of the second 
corridor, 166 ft. long, is a large 
door of brass, which has stands to 
hold many lamps that are Ughted 


I at night. A third dark corridor, 
under a small gopuram, ends in 
1 one broader, with more light, 

I which has three figures on either 
1 side, carved with spirit, and leads 
! to a quadrangle with a Teppa 
\ Kulam. This tank is called 

I Swarnapnshpakarmi, or Potta- 

niarai, Tank of the Golden 

Lilies.” All round it runs an 

arcade. On the N. and E. sides 
the walls of this are painted with 
the representations of the most 
I famous pagodas in India ; from 
the S. side a very good view is 
obtained of the different towers 
of the gopurams. On the N.W. 
side is the belfry, with an Ameri- 
can bell of fine tone. The corridor 
in front of the entrance to the 
I temple is adorned with twelve very 
spirited figures, which form pillars 
on either side, six of them being 
the Yali, a name given to a strange 
monster which is the conventional 
lion of the S., sometimes repre- 
sented with a long snout or pro- 
boscis. Between every two of 
them is a figure of one of the five 
Pandu brothers (see p. Ixxii of the 
Introduction). First on the right 
is Yudhishthir, and opposite to 
him on the left is Arjan with his 
famous bow. Then comes Saha- 
deva on the right, and Nakula on 
the left. Then follows Bhima on 
the right with his club, and 
i opposite to him, on the left, is 
j tile .shrine of the goddess and the 
j figure of a Dwarapalagam. From 
j here a gopuram leads from the 
I Minakshi Temple into that of 
Sundareswar, surrounded by a 
fine corridor. On the S. side of 
it is a Nandi hall, and eight steps 
lead into the Anivati Mitvar, the 
Temple of the Saivite Saints, in 
which are a very large number of 
statues of Hindu saints and gods. 
The jewel - house adjoining is 
opened for a fee of Rs.15. N.E. 
of the groups of statues are the 
chambers where the Vahanas, or 
j vehicles, of Minakshi and Sun- 
i dareswar are kept. There are two 
I golden palkis, or litters, plated 



ROUTE ^ 5 . TIRUMALA NAYA: 

With gold, and two with rods to i 
support canopies. There are also ! 
vehicles plated with silver, such as | 
a Banisa, or goose, a Nandi, or 1 
bull. ! 

In the N.E. corner is the most 
striking feature of the temple— 
the Sahasrasihambha Mandapam, 
or Hall of 1000 Pillars. There are 
in fact 997, but many are hid 
from view, as the intervals between 
them have been bricked un to 
form granaries to the temple. 

There is a small shrine dedicated 
to the god Sabhapati, which occu- 
pies the space of fifteen columns, 
so the real number is only 985 » 
but it IS not their number but their 
marvellous elaboration that makes 
it the wonder of the place, and 
renders it in some respects more 
remarkable than the choultry (see 
below) about which so much has 
been said and written ” (Fergus- 
iion,Ind. Arch., i, 392)- This hall, 
whose sculptures surpass those of 
any other hall of its class, was 
built c. 1560 A.D. by Arianaya- 
kam IMudali, Minister of the 
Founder of the dynasty of the 
Nayakkans. He is represented on , 
the left of the entrance sitting 1 
gracefully on a rearing horse. In j 
the row behind him are some : 
spirited figures of men and woxnen, 
or male and female deities dancing. 

Opposite the great gopuram is 
the Pudhu ^ Mandapam, or New 
Gallery, known as Tirumala s 
Choultry, and built by him for the 
presiding deity of the place, Sun- 
dareswar, who paid him a visit of 
ten days annually. This, had it 
been finished, would have sm- 
passed in magnificence all the 
other buildings of this monarch , 
and as the date of its construction 
is known (1623-45), it forms a 
fixed point in the chronology of 
the style. The hall is 333 ft. long 
and 105 ft. broad, and has four- 
rows of pillars supporting a flat 

1 Also called the VasaiUa Mandapam, as 
the god’s \ isit to it was in the spnng. 


K’S choultry AND PALACE 593 

roof, and on either side of the 
centre corridor five pillars repre- 
sent ten of the Nayakkan dynasty. 
Tirumala is distinguished by hav- 
ing a canopy over him and two 
figures at his back ; the figure on 
the left is his wife, the Princess 
of Tan j ore. On the left of the 
doorway is a singular group, repre- 
senting one of the Nayaks shooting 
a wild boar and sows, according 
i to the legend, which says that Siva 
i commiserated the litter of Uttle 
' pigs, took them up in his arms, 
and, assuming the shape of the 
: sow, suckled them. A portly 
I figure, either that of Siva or the 
I Nayak, is seen holding up the 
! dozen little pigs. The hall is 
said to have cost a million sterling. 

j The Great Raya Gopuram is on 
! the E. side of 'the hall ; had it 
[ been cornpleted in accordance 
i with its foundations, it would have 
I been by far the loftiest gopuram 
in all S. India. 

m. from the temple to the S.E. 
is the Palace of Tirumala Nayak. 
The building, which looks modern, 
and has pillars of rough granite 
cased with beautiful chunam 
or cement supporting scalloped 
arches, has been restored, and is 
now utilised for public offices. 
The mam entrance — a granite 
portico built in honour of Lord 
Napier and Ettrick, who first 
! ordered the restoration— is on the 
! E. side of the building At each 
corner of the E. face of the Palace 
j IS a low tower. The Napier Gate- 
I way gives access to a quadrangle 
‘ 252 ft. by 15 1 ft. On the E., N., 

' and S. sides of this quadrangle is 
a corridor, the roof supported by 
arches resting on granite pillars. 
On the \V. and opposite the main 
entrance stands the “ Swarga 
^ Vilas,” or Celestial Pavilion, for- 
i merly the throne-room of the 
j Palace, now used as the Judge’s 
! Court, It is an arcaded octagon, 
covered by a dome 6o ft. in 
1 diameter and 70 ft. high. To the 


2F 



594 ROUTE 35. MADRAS TO TUTICORIN ! KAMESWARAM India 


N. of this is the splendid hall, 1 
the two corresponding with the ; 
Diwan-i-Khas and Diwan-i-'Am , 
of Muhammadan Palaces. The , 
hall IS 140 ft. long by 70 ft. wide, 
and its height to the centre of the 
roof IS 70 ft. ; but, what is more ; 
important than its dimensions, it 
possesses all the structural pro- , 
priety and character of a Gothic 
building (see Fergusson’s Ind. - 
Arch., I, 41 2-414). Fine as the j 
hall is, the illustration in Fer- [ 
gusson’s Ind. Arch., taken from | 
Daniell’s drawing, utterly exag- 1 
gerates the proportions and beauty ' 
of it. This old Palace now forms 
one of the finest public buildings 1 
in India. 

The English Church, designed by • 
Mr Chisholm, C.E., and built at ' 
the expense of Mr Fischer, a j 
former well - known resident at ; 
Madura, stands in an open space ■ 
in the middle of the town S.W. ' 
of the Great Temple. ' 

On the N. side of the i^iver 
Vaigai, N. of the city, and about ! 
I m. from the bridge (recently 
completed), is a curious building ! 
called the Tamkam, built by 
Tirumala for exhibiting fights ' 
between wild beasts and gladia- ! 
tors. It is now the Collector's j 
residence. X. again is the Civil I 
Station. 3 m E. of the station is : 
the rine X'andu'ur Teppa Kulani \ 
(or sacred tank, literally meaning ' 
the raft tank, with reference to the : 
raft on which the god is taken from | 
the great temple every year), j 
enclosed by a granite parapet 1 
(1000 ft. sq.), and with a pretty I 
temple in the middle. On the way ! 
is passed a garden with a very j 
tine specimen of the Ficus indicci. \ 
The main stem has been much ; 
mutilated, but is still 70 ft. ’ 
in circumference. The ground ! 
shaded by this tree has a diameter , 
of 180 ft. in every direction. ! 

Ramnad District. The branch ' 
railway from Madura to (67 m.) : 
Ramnad and (90 m.) Mandapam ! 
is connected with Pamban, on 
the island of Ramesvaram,. but I 


by a railway embankment and 
bridge across the Pamban channel. 
The line runs on from Pamban 
to (105 m ) Rameswaram, and 
II m. farther to Dhanuskodi. 
From here a steamer connects 
this route with Talai Manaar, 25 
m. distant, from wFich Colombo 
is 207 m. (p. 684). This route 
from India to Ceylon, with its 
short sea - passage, is no doubt 
destined to supersede that via 
Tuticorm. 

The Temple of Kameswaram, 
about 7 m. distant from Pamban. 
is one of the most venerated Hindu 
shrines m India, having been 
founded, according to tradition, 
by Rama himself, and therefore 
being associated with Rama's 
journey to Ceylon in search of 
Sita, and the Ramayana (p. Ixxii, 
Intioduction). For centuries it 
has been the object of pilgrimages 
from all parts of India. It is to 
their control of the passage from 
the mainland that the Chiefs of 
Ramnad owe their hereditary title 
of Setupati, " Lord of the Cause- 
way.” At Dhanuskodi works are 
in progress to connect the island 
of Ceylon, knowm . as the Indo- 
Ceylon railway connection. 

The island is to a great extent 
covered with habid [Acacta arahica) 
trees and by quaint umbrella-trees 
It is inhabited principally by 
Brahmans, supported by the 
profits derived from the temples 
and by gifts made by pilgrims 
for punficating ceremonies. The 
Brahmans who live in Rames- 
waram depend largely upon the 
income the}’ derive from the 
pilgrims, to •whom they act as 
guides and priests. 

The great Temple stands on 
rising ground above a iresh-water 
lake, about 3 m. in circumference, 
in the N. part of the island. 
It is built in a quadrangular enclo- 
sure 657 ft. broad by about looo ft. 
long, and is entered by a gateway 
100 ft. high. With its majestic 
towers, its vast colonnades, and 



595 


ROUTE 35. RAMESWARAM TEMPLE 


Its walls encrusted with carved 
work and statuary, it is a grand 
example of the Dravidian style. 
The best and oldest portion is 
built of a dark, hard hmestone, 
to which there is nothing similar 
in the rest of the building. Local 
tradition asserts that this part was 
erected by the Vara Raja Sek- 
karar, of Kandy, with stone cut 
and polished in Ceylon, and that 
its cost was defrayed by the sea- 
port dues of all the coast towns 
during the year it was building. 
The massiveness of the workman- 
ship (slabs 40 ft. long being used 
in the doorways and ceilings), and 
the w'onderful pillared halls which 
surround the inner shrine are 
noticeable. The temple consists 
of three pniLanuus. Excepting 
the ymilashanam, or the innermost 
shrine, the other portions of the 
first and second prakarams are in 
the course of renovation. The 
old limestone is replaced by black 
granite, and, unlike the old 
structure, ample provision is made 
for free light and air. It may take 
several years before the w^ork is 
completed. The corridors of the 
outer or third prakavam will 
remain untouched ; and therefore 
when the work of renovation of 
the inner pfakayams is completed, 
the temple will exhibit the old 
and the modern style of architec- 
ture side by side, and in contrast. 

Mr Fergusson says:’ “If it 
were proposed to select one temple 
which should exhibit ail the 
beauties of the Dravidian style 
in their greatest perfection, and 
at the same time exemplify all its 
characteristic defects of design, 
the choice would almost inevitably 
fall upon that of Ramesvaram. 
In no other temple has the same 
amount of patient industry been 
exhibited as here ; and in none, I 
unfortunately, has that labour 
been so thrown away for ivant of 
a design appropriate to its display. 

• . . While the temple at Tan j ore 
produces an ehect greater than 

* Ind. Arch.^ I, 380. 


IS due to its mass or detail, this 
one, with double its dimensions 
and ten times its elaboration, pro- 
duces no effect external^, and 
internally can only be seen in 
detail, so that the parts hardly in 
any instance aid one another in 
producing the effect aimed at.” 
It remains to be seen to what 
extent the defects of design will 
be remedied by the w'ork of 
renovation now in progress. 

“ The glory of this temple 
resides in its corridors. These 
extend to nearly 4000 ft. in length. 
The breadth varies from 1 7 ft. 
to 21 ft. of free floor space, and 
their height is apparently about 
30 ft. from the floor to the centre 
of the tool. Each pillar or pier 
is compound, 12 it. m height, 
standing on a platform 5 ft. from 
the floor, and richer and more 
elaborate in design than those of 
the Parvati porch at Chidam- 
baram (p. 579), and are certainly 
more modern in date.” But, 
unfortunately, several parts of 
these splendid corridors have been 
blocked up to locate the vahanams, 
or vehicles, the temple offices, the 
records, and for such other pur- 
poses. The glory is thus partly 
lost. The painting on the ceilings 
and the colonnades are either 
fading a\vay or have faded alto- 
gether. It IS understood that the 
present trustee of the temple has 
in view the restoration of the 
corridors to their full and ancient 
glory. 

As the corridors run for the most 
part round open spaces, and have 
light admitted to them through 
the back walls, they have none of 
the mysterious half-light of those 
of Madura, and wall perhaps strike 
some visitors as less impressive. 

The temple, its ceremonies, and 
its attendant Brahmans are main- 
tained from the revenue of 
seventy-tw^o villages, yielding an 
annual income of about £7000, 
granted for the most part by 
former Rajas of the Ramnad 
zaminddri. and by others, and 



liuua 


596 ROUTE 35 MADRAS TO TUTICORIN : MANlVAClII 


from the offerings of pilgrims and 
devotees, and from other income 
amounting to Rs.3000. The lin- 
gam, which is supposed to have 
been placed here by Rama, is dail^’ 
washed with Ganges water, which 
is afterwards sold, being bought 
by pilgrims ; a stock of it is 
always kept ready. 

The management of this his- 
toric and ancient institution has 1 
a chequered history. Xn 1S82 the ' 
hereditary trustee of the Devas- ' 
tanam was dismissed from office 
by the District Judge of Madura, ^ 
and since then there have been ' 
temporary trustees or managers. 
Since 1910 a scheme of manage- 
ment has been sanctioned b\’ the 
Court. Under the scheme the 
whole property, movable and 
immovable, belonging to the 
Devastanam and the entire execu- 
tive authority are vested in a 
trustee, who is aided by a com- 
mittee of three members in 
matters such as the budget, etc. 
The term of office of the trustee, 
and of two out of the three mem- 
bers of the committee, is limited 
to five years. But they are 
eligible for reappointment. The 
third member of the committee 
is hereditary. The first trustee 
under the scheme is a retired 
Government official. Similar 
schemes of management have 
been or are in course of 
being introduced regarding other 
religious institutions of this Presi- 
dency. It is a unique feature of 
this Devastanam that not one 
of its employees has any vested 
or miYasi right. The powers of 
appointment and removal, except- 
ing that of the treasurer, and the 
control of the entire temple 
establishment, vest in the trustee 
in full, and in him alone. 


401 m. from JMadras is Koilpatti 
station, on the S. Indian Railway. 
The beautiful rock-cut Jain figures 
at Kalugumalai are 13 m. from ' 
Koilpatti, and are worth visiting. 


425 m. Maniyaclii junction (line 
to Tinnevelly and Quilon — see 
P 507). 

443 m. Tuticorin station 
{Tuttukudi} ^ {Railway R. and 
D B ), terminus of S. Indian Rail- 
way. Lat. S° 48', long. 78° II^ 
A municipal and commercial town, 
exporting quantities of cotton, 
coffee, chillies, tea, cattle ; value 
in 1915-16 of exports, £3,690,672, 
and of imports, £1,181,453 (popula- 
tion 40.1 85). The anchorage is 6 m. 
to 7 m irom the shore. Passen- 
gers are conveyed to and from the 
steamers of the B I.S.N. Company 
in their steam launch. Fare, Rs.5, 
an. 6 p. 6, with food, for Europeans ; 
Rs.3, an. o p. 6, without food, for 
Indians. The daily service to and 
from Colombo, 185 m. m connec- 
tion with the S.l. Express from 
Madras, has been temporarily sus- 
pended on account of the War : 
steamers now ply twice a week 
each way. This sea-route will not 
be superseded by that viii Madura, 
Karnes varam, and Manaar (see pp. 
594 and 684) cvithout a struggle, 
if at all. There is an enormous 
passenger traffic o± coolies by the 
present route. 

The place was famous for its 
pearl fishery, which extended from 
Cape Comorin to the Pamban 
Channel- This was accurately 
described by Marco Polo, who 
noted that the fishermen paid 
Brahmans to charm away the 
sharks. C£esar Frederick, who 
visited India 1563-81, recorded 
that the fishing began in March or 
April, and lasted fifty days. It 
is never m the same spot during 
two consecutive years ; but when 
the season approaches good divers 
are sent to examine where the 
greatest number of oysters are to 
be found, and when they have 
settled that point a village is 
built of stone opposite to it.’" 
The fishers and divers are mostly 
native Christians. Owing to the 
deepening of the Pamban Channel, 



ROUTE 35. TUTICORIX— TINNEVELLY QUILON 597 


these banks no longer pro. luce the 
pearl oysters in such remunerative 
quantities, but shank shells are 
still found and exported to Bengal. 
The fisheries are carried on at 
intervals under Government super- 
vision. 

The S.P.G. have a mission-house 
here. A site, near the seashore, 
for a D.B. at Tuticorin, has been 
selected. 

Tuticorin was originally a Portu- 
guese settlement, founded about 
1540. In 1658 it was captured by 
the Dutch, and in 1782 by the 
British. It was restored to the 
Dutch in 1785, and again taken 
by the British in 1795. During 
the Poligar War of iSoi it was 
held for a short time by the Poli- 
gar of Panchalamkurichi, and 
was ceded to the Dutch in iSiS. 
It was finally handed over to 
the Enghsh m 1825 

The old Dutch cemetery, con- 
taining several tombstones on 
which are carved armorial bearings 
and raised inscriptions, is worthy 
of a visit- 

20 m S of Tuticorin, on the sea, 
lies the village (with D.B.) of 
Tricheiidur (motor service from 
Palamcotta : a railway under con- 
struction has been stopped), which 
contains a large and important 
temple dedicated to Subrahmanya, 
the god ot war, and second son of 
Siva The temple contains some 
excellent sculpture and several 
inscriptions. There is also a cave 
with rock-cut sculptures (on the 
list of monuments preserved). 


19 m. from Mamyachi is Tinne- 
velly (Tirunelveh) (population 
44 »So 5), on the left bank of the 
Tambrapurni River, and i-V m. 
from It. It is 3] m. from “Pal- 
amcotta (population 44,909). A 
bridge of eleven arches of 60 ft. 
span each, erected by Sulochenam 
Mudeliar, connects the two places. 

Tinnevelly is the most Christian 
District in India. The S P.G. and 
the C M.S., established 1820, have 


important stations at the head- 
quarters and at Palamcotta, as 
have also the Jesuits. It was 
here that St Francis Xavier {1506- 
1552) began his preachmg in India. 
This district lias a long list of D.Bs 
and R Hs. 

The Temple at Tinnevelly, 
though, as Mr Fergusson says 
(Ind, Arch., i, 392), “ neither 
among the largest nor the most 
splendid of S. India, has the 
advantage of having been built on 
one plan and at one time, without 
subsequent alteration or change.” 
It is, like the temple at Madura, 
divided into two parts, of which 
the S. half is dedicated to Parvati, 
the consort of Siva, and the N. 
to Siva himself. There are three 
gateways, or gopurams, to either 
lialf, those on the E. being the 
principal, and having porches 
outside them. In front on enter- 
ing is an internal porch of large 
dimensions, on the right of Avhich 
IS a Teppa Kidani, and on the left 
a thousand-pillared hall, which 
runs nearly the whole breadth of 
the enclosure, and is 63 ft. broad. 
There are a hundred rows of pillars 
ten deep. The temple is deserving 
of a visit, and can easily be 
reached, as Tinnevelly is but little 
out of the way of a traveller going 
to Tuticorin. 

Palamcotta (D.B furnished), 3^ 
m. E. of Tinnevelly, is a municipal 
town, with a population of 44,909, 
of whom 342-1 are Christians. 
The old fort has been demolished. 

Between the bridge over the 
Tambrapurni and the fort stands 
the Church of the C.M.S., the spire 
of which is no ft. high. The 
C.M.S. have several schools here. 

The railway turns N.W. 
from Tinnevelly, and runs past 
(50 m.) Shencottah, and through 
a dip in the ghats to Ihinalur 
(79 m ), and so to 

107 m Quilon — the Koilum of 
Marco Polo — on the W. coast of 



India 


ROUTE MADRAS TO TUTICORIK * CAPE COMORIN 


the Travancore State, the ancient 
Kerala, which has an area of 
7600 sq. m. and a population of 
3,500,000. Trivandrum, ^ (popu- 
lation 63,000; D.B.), the capital 
of the State, lying 44 m. by road 
(public motor ser\dce) S'E. ot 
Oiiilon, is the headquarters of the 
Resident No less than 20 per 
cent, of the population of the 
State is Christian, 238,000 being 
members of the old Syrian Church. 
The present Chief of the State is 
'H.H. Maharaja Sir Rama Varma, 
G C.S.I. The ancient custom of 
descent through the female line 
still prevails, both in the royal 
family and in the State generally. 
The fort at Trivandrum (Tiru- 
vananantapuram) contains, be- 
sides the fine Palace of the Maha- 
raja, an old temple of Vishnu, 
known as the Padmanabha. The 
palace may generally be visited 
on application to the Private 
Secretary to the Maharaja There 
is an observatory at the capital, 
and a good museum and a fine 
pubhc garden. The attack in 
1789 by Tipu Sultan, on the Tra- 
vancore lines from the island of 
Vypeen, N. of British Cochin, to 
the foot of the ghats, led to the 
great Mysore War of 17S9-92. 

The new Quilon-Trivandrum 
railway is approaching completion. 

3S m. N.W. of Tinnevelly is 
Kuttalam (D.B.), resorted to by 
European residents and even more 
by Indians of position, from 
Madras and other distant places. 
It IS not very elevated, but the 
S.W. winds pass over it through a 
chasm in the W. ghats, and bring 
with them coolness and moisture 
so that the temperature of this 
favoured spot is from 10° to 15° 
lower than that of the plains 
beyond, and it is particularly 
enjoyable in June, July, and 
August. Close to the bungalows 
there are three falls in the channel 
of the Chittar River, the lowest 
cataract having a plunge of 200 ft., 
but being broken midway. The 


average temperature of the water 
is from 72^ to 75° F., and invalids 
derive great benefit from bathing 
in it. The bathing-place is under 
a fine shelving rock, which afiords 
the most delightful shower-bath 
possible The scenery is strik- 
ingly picturesque, being a happy 
mixture of bold rockb and umbra- 
geous woods. 

There is also a D.B. at Nanna- 
garam, close to Kuttalam. 

From Palamcotta to Papa- 
nasham [papa, “ sin,” nasham, 
” eftacing ”) is 29 m. Here, near 
a pagoda, the Tambrapumi River 
takes its last fall from the hills to 
the level country. The height is 
only So ft., but the body of water 
is greater than at Kuttalam. 

From Palamcotta to Cape 
Comorin is a distance of about 
50 m. along a fair unmetalled road. 
If arrangements are made before- 
hand, the journey can easily be 
done in less than 15 iirs. ; the 
night being spent m the bullock- 
coach, which is the only means of 
conveyance procurable. 

From Palamcotta there is now 
a motor-service to Nagarcoil, 8 m. 
from Cape Comorin. The Travan- 
core State has a gnest-house at 
Cape Comorin 

Cape Comorin (lat, 4', long. 
77° 35 O — Koiiapia aKpov 

of Ptolemy and “ Comori ” of 
Marco Polo — is named from the 
temple of Kumari (the Virgin, an 
attribute of Durga) built at the 
Southernmost point of the Indian 
peninsula. The temple and vil- 
lage, standing on rocks, and the 
long sandy promontory, backed 
by groves of palms, are very pic- 
turesque ; and there are consider- 
able remains of fortifications a 
few miles N. of the temple. There 
is a D B. (second class). 



599 


ROUTE 3(5. M \PR 


ROUTE 36. 

MADRAS U) MAMALLAPURAM. or 

the Seven Pagodas, by canal, 

or rail and road. 

A highly interesting expedition 
from Aladras is to Mamallapuram 
(Mahabalipuram), D.B. [the city oj 
gnat Hall — sec note, p. 002), or 
the Seven Pagodas, one of the most 
remarkable places in India. ^ 

It IS about 35 m. S., six of which 
can best be done in a carnage to 
Guindy Bridge, where the Buck- 
ingham Canal is reached. (Tlie 
canal i.s shallow near ^ladras, and 
a boat is continually grounding). 
A boat must be engaged betore- 
Iiand tliro'reh on<' of the hotels or 
agents : the cost is about Rs.7. 
II more than one person is going, 
another boat must be engaged for 
the servants. The boatmen tow 
the boat, and the journey is 
done m from ic to 14 hrs. 
Another route is by Jhatka (fare, 
Jl^s.2|) or bv motor-car, on a good 
road," from Chingleput through 
Tirukalikunram to the canal, 
which is continuous, with a back- 
water, and should be crossed by 
boat, the water being waist-deep. 
There is a furnished two-roomed 
D.B at Mamallapuram ' no ser- 
vants except the watciiman, and 
supplies are dilficiilt to get There 
is excellent sea-bathing near the 
shore-temple, but care must be 
taken not to venture too far out 
Arrangements for crossing the 
canal and backwater may possibly 
bo made by the D.B. watchmen, 

1 A full de^ciiption of the excavation'^ and 
car\ings at MarualLipuram he found 

in the Cai'i’ re.*tij>ies of Indicia Mi 
Fergus^on and Dr Burgess, and in the 
collection of papeis puMished by Captain M. 
W. (..arr in 1^69 See also Fercu^son'^ 
Ind A r, 171 


TO ^lA.MALLAPURAM 

ji li(* Is addn --('tl in .ulxaip'e, but 
it IS not Jh'' liuty to make Arrange- 
ments 

The popular name of the Seven 
Pagodas is iNlavalavaram. or Maha- 
balipuram (a Sanskritised form of 
MAMALLAPUR-AM), which was bc- 
heved to connect the town with 
! the demon Mahabali, overpowered 
: by god Vishnu m his vamana- 
avatar a, or dwart-mcarnation ; but 
I the derivation ot the na.me from 
' the demon Bali is now given up. 

, It has been suggested that the 
' village owes its existence to the 
Banas, who claim their descent 
from the demon ^klahabali, or 
, jMahabah - chakravartm). There 
is, however, no evidence to show 
that the Banas extended their 
dominions so far. But in ancient 
Chola inscriptions found at the 
Seven Pagodas the name of the 
place IS Alamallapuram , tins is 
L'vidently a corruption oi Maham- 
allapuram, meaning the “ city or 
town of Mahamalla,'’ winch occurs 
as a surname oi th(‘ Palkua King 
Xarasimhavarman I. in a muti- 
lated record at Badami in the 
Bombay' Presidency, which he 
claims to have captured. The 
earliest inscriptions on the Raths 
at the Seven Pagodas, in the 
opinion ot Professor Hultzsch, are 
biriidas of a King named Xara- 
simha. It is thus not unlikely 
that Mahamailapuram. or Mavala- 
varam, was the original name of 
the village, and that it was founded 
and named after lumself by the 
Pallava King Xarasimhavarman, 
the contemporary and opponent 
of the Chalukya Puiakesin II. 

(A.D 609-42}. 

3 m. X. of Balipitham, the land- 
ing-place for the modern village of 
Mamallapuram, is Saluvan Kup- 
pan, with two cave temples. One 
of these is usually tilled with dritt- 
sand. The other is quamtlj’ 
carved with nine lions’ heads 
round the cells, and has two ele- 
phants' heads under miniature 
cells to the right of it. Running 
S from Bolipitham and between 



6oO ROUTE 36. MADRAS 

the canal and the sea, distant 
nearly m., is a low granite 
ridge rising about 120 it. above 
the plain in its lughest part. 
Upon this ridge are various ex- 
cavations and carvings ; on the 
E. face of it is a famous relief of 
the so-called Penance of Arjan, 
and 700 yds. beyond the S. ex- 
tremity of it are the five mono- 
lithic temples called the Raihs, all 
works, it IS believed, of the Palla- 
vas (p. 541), and dating from the 
7th century a.d. The modern 
village lies E. of the great relief, 
and the old temple lies beyond 
it again on the seashore. The 
traveller can proceed in his boat to 
opposite the Raths, or by foot 
from Balipitham along the top of 
the ridge, or below its Eastern side, 
as he may feel disposed. Every 
one will probably prefer to visit 
the Raths first, as they are ab- 
solutely unique in the whole of 
India. 

These numerous monolithic 
monuments known as the Raths 
may be assigned with consider- 
able certainty to the Pallavas. 
The Dharmaraja Rath, the Ganesa 
Temple, the Dharmaraja -mandapa ! 
and the Ramanuja-mandapa bear ; 
inscriptions which prove beyond 
doubt that they were all excavated ! 
by Paliava Kings. The Ganesa 
Temple and the Dharmaraja- | 
mandapa are called Aiyantakama \ 
Pallavesvara-griha. The same 
name is engraved on the outside 
of the third storey of the Dharma- 
raja Rath. Perhaps the last was 
completed by Atyantakama, who 
might have constructed the re- 
maining Raths as well as the 
Ganesa Temple and the Dhar- 
maraja-mandapa. The Saluvan- 
guppam Cave, situated about m. 
A. of IVlamallapuram, was exca- 
vated by Atiranachanda-Pallava, 
and was accordingly called Atiran- 

achanda-Paliavesvara-gnha. The 
identity of Atyantakama and 
Atiranachanda with any of the 
lyags known from the copper- 
plate grants remains to be estab- 


TO MAMALlfAPURAM India 

{ hshed by future researches. The 
} Chola insicnptions in the Shore 
I Temple at the Seven Pagodas 
I mention three shrines at Mamal- 
[ lapuram — viz., Kshatnyasimha- 
' Pallava-Isvara, Rajasimha - Pal- 
j lava-Isvara and Pallikondaruliya- 
I devar, which were apparently 
I situated in the temple called Jal- 
, asayana — 2.^., the Shore Temple. 
' Kshatriyasimha - Paliava - Isvara 
I was in all probability the ancient 
name of the principal shrine in 
I the Shore Temple. Kajasiraha- 
i Pallava-Isvara might be the name 
' of the smaller shrine in the same 
I temple, while Paihkondaruliva 
I probably denotes the shnne con- 
nected with the larger temple, 
where a large mutilated statue 01 
1 the god Vishnu is lying. It i^ 
j probable that the Paliava King 
I Rajasimha built the smaller ot 
1 the two slirines which go by the 
! name of the Shore Temple. It G 
j also possible that Kshatriyasimha 
I was another name of the same 
King. In this case the whole ol 
the Shore Temple must have been 
built by the Paliava King Kaja- 
simha, who constructed the KaiU- 
sanatha Temple at Kanchipuram 
about the beginning ol the Stli 
century a.d. Besides these there 
are a pretty large number of caves 
I at the Seven Pagodas which bear 
no inscriptions, but which may 
also be assigned to the Paliava 
period. 

The most Northerly of the Raths 
is called after Draupadi, the wife 
of the five Pandavas (see p. Ixxii. 
Introduction). It is the smallest 
of all, measuring only ii ft. sq , 
and has a pointed roof, like that ol 
a thatched hut, rising 18 ft. from 
the ground, and once crowned by 
a stone finial. The image of a 
goddess carved inside the shrine 
IS popularly explained as Drau- 
padi, but more probably repre- 
sents Durga. At her feet are two 
kneeling figures, one of which is 
shown in the act of making an 
offering of his hair. W. of this 
Rath are an elephant and a lion 



ROUTE 36. TEMPLE 

carved out of single blocks of 
stone, and E. of it is a Xaudi^ bull. 
These animals are the vehicles 
{udhanas) of the thunder - god 
Indra, the goddess Durga, and 
Siva, and were presumably in- 
tended to be placed in front of the 
respective shnnes. The second 
Rath, popularly named after 
Arjan, was probably in reality a 
temple dedicated to Indra whose , 
effigy is shown in a niche in the 
back wall. Like the fourth named j 
after Dharmaraja (or Yudhishthir) 
it IS a copy of a terraced Buddhist 
Vihara. The so-called Dharmaraja , 
is in reality a Siva temple built 
by the Pallava king Narasimha- 
varman who reigned in the first 
half of the 7th century. The | 
first, which is three-store3^ed, 
measures ri ft. s<i. and is 20 It i 
high ; the cell in the interior ! 
is only partly excavated. The | 
second measures nearly 27 ft. by 
29 It., and IS 35 ft. high ; it has 
four storeys, three with simulated , 
cells round them, and the fourth , 
of a dome-shape, reminding one ol | 
the crowning cupola of the Great 1 
Temple at Tanjore. In each i 
round window decorating the cells 
is a head as of a monk looking 
out of it. The basement storey 
has round it columns of the Ele- | 
phanta type (p. 22}, with lions at i 
their base ; the excavation of the ! 
other two storej^s has been com- | 
menced only. Between these two j 
Raths is that of Bhima, and j 
of this, and outside the line of the j 
other four, the Rath of Sahadeva 
and Nakula. The former is the I 
largest of all, measuring 48 ft. by ; 
25 ft., and rising 26 ft. from the 1 
ground. Onl^^ part of the hall has | 
been excavated, the pillars having i 
cushion capitals and lion bases 
(see above). The carved roof of 
the upper storey closely simulates 
the wooden form of a free struc- 
ture of the kind. The fifth Rath is 
smaller again, 18 ft. by ii ft. by 
16 ft. high ; it has an apsidal end 
on the S. side, and is intended to 
n-pres* nt a Chaitva (p. cu Introd ). ; 


; — c.wES — FIGURES 6or 

At the N. end is a porch with two 
pillars in front of a cell, beyond 
which excavation of the Chaitya 
never proceeded. Simulated cells 
are represented on the terraces 
of this Rath also. Each of these 
works is carved out of a smgle 
mass of stone, and probabl^^ these 
masses once formed a detached 
continuous outcrop of the rock^' 
ridge, 

ftoceeding N. from the Raths 
to the Southern extremity of the 
ridge, there will be found on the 
isolated rocks near the E. corner 
a representation of a penance of 
Arjan, and on the W. side the 
Varahaswami Temple, used for 
Hindu worship and not accessible. 
Between these, rather farther to 
the N,, is the Yamapuri or Mahi- 
shamardini tiiumiapdfn, a cave 
33 ft. long and 15 ft. deep, with 
representations of the combat 
between Durga, wife of Siva, and 
the buffalo-headed demon, and of 
t'hshnu reclining on the Shesh 
Snake ; at the back of the cave 
are three cells. Fartlier N. again, 
beyond various incomplete exca- 
vations and the Ramanui^’a nno/- 
iUipdiu, a cave 18 ft, by 10 it., 
with two pillars resting on lions’ 
heads, are the excavations known 
localh'’ as the throne or couch of 
the Dharmaraja, and the bath or 
vat of Draupadi, nearly opposite 
the fine gatewa}' of the Vishnu 
Temple, known as the Ra^’ula 
Gopuram, which was begun about 
the 12th century, on the E. side of 
the ridge above the great bas- 
rehef, but was left only begun. 
To the N. of the gopuram is a 
very graceful monolithic temple, 
called after Ganesha, measuring 
19 ft. by II ft., and rising 28 ft. 
from the rock. It has three 
storey's, the two lower with simu- 
lated cells, and the carved roof of 
the topmost carr^ring a row of 
finials , the pillars of the base are 
of very slender and wooden form. 
N.W. of this, and facing W., is a 
cave, I9i ft. by ft., with bold 
represeiilcition.'i 01 llie X'araha, or 



India 


6o ? 


ROUTE ^6. MADRAS TO MAMALLAPURAM : SADR AS 


Boar mcarnation^ of (i) Vishnu ; 
(2) elephants pouring water over 
Lakshmi ; (3) Durga ; (4) Maha- 
bah and the Dwarf (Vamana) 
incarnation. Farther N. again is 
one cave on the W. side and 
another on the £. side known as 
the Isvara r.icudapam, containing 
three shrines with statues of the 
Hindu Triad ; there is a large 
stone bowl in front of the cave, 
and at the back of it a relief of 
elephants, and a monkey and a 
peacock. Just beyond the N. 
end of the ridge, and near the 
hamlet of Pillaiyan Kovil, is a 
life-like sculpture of three mon- 
keys in the round. 

Turning S. again from this 
point, below the E. face of the 
ridge the great bas-rehef 90 ft. 
long and 30 ft. high will be found 
at the back of the village temple, 
also probably dating Irom the 
7th century. The N. half of 
the rehef is occupied below by 
two life-size full-grown elephants 
and four small ones, and above 
by a crowd of figures hurrying to 
the centre. In the rift between 
this and the Southern face is a 

^ The representation of the * ’araJia in- 
carnation is fairly well done, but unliiushed. 
Toe central figure is the four-armed Vishnii 
with a huge boar’s head who lifts up the 
Earth Goildess and places his right leg on 
the head of a snake-hooded figure issuing 
from the waves The latter is the giant 
Hiranyaksha, Golden eye.” who had 
Carried off the eaith into the infinite abyss. 
Vishnu wdth the head of a boar, ‘‘pursued 
and ■slew nlm and saved the Earth.” 
The representation of the' ramana-ava- 
ia-ra., or ^Iwarf - incarnation, is very 
“Spirited. \ ishnu, dilated to an immense 
size, places one foot on the earth, and lifts 
another to the sky. The god has eight arms, 
w'lth which he holds a sword, a quoit, a 
shield, a bow, and a lotus, and with one 
he points. The other two are indistinct. 
Worshippers or attendants are at his feet 
and other figures appear in the skies. One 
to the W. has the head of a dog. The 
legend is tnat when Bah became Ruler over 
the whole earth Vishnu approached him in 
the shape of a dwarf, and asked for so much : 
space as he could cover in thi ee steps Bali ' 
granted this modest request, whereupon 1 
Vishnu dilated to immense propoj tions and 

and with a third thrust Bali down to Helk 


i statue of the Nag Raja, over- 
I shadowed by a seven-hooded ser- 
pent, and of his wufe below him, 
with other serpent-cro-wmed figures 
and animals. On the Southern 
face IS Siva with an .ascetic, from 
whom the relief is named the 
Penance of Arjan, on his left, and 
a large number of dwarfs, liying 
figures, human beings, and ani- 
mals, including lions, monkeys, 
hares, deer, and birds, round him. 
The relief is very picturesque and 
interesting, and is unique in all 
India. S. of this is a large unfin- 
ished cave known as the uiandit- 
pani of the Pancha Pandavas. 
with two row‘s of pillars and 
models of cells on the fa9ade ; 
and farther again and not lar 
above the S.F.. corner of the ridge 
is the Krishna inandapctm, of later 
date than any of the other ex- 
cavations, supported by twelve 
column^ in four rows, and con- 
taining at the back a sculptured 
relief of Krishna holding up the 
mountain of Hobardhan (p. 225)* 
The central figure of a cow being 
milked is very natural. 

A path leads from the bas-reliet 
past a fine tank to the seashore 
temple, dating from the 8th cen- 
tury, and being one of the oldest 
Dravidian temples extant. It is 
in the form of a five-storeyed 
vihara about 50 ft, high and 60 
ft. at the base {Ind. Arch., i, 362). 
Inside the temple is a fallen lin- 
gam, and inside a vestibule on 
the W. of it is a recumbent figure 
of Vishnu, II ft. long; 75 ft. 
distant in the sea are the remains 
of a dipa sianihha, or lamp pillar. 
S. of the temple are two rocks 
with recesses surrounded bv lions’ 
heads excavated on their W. side. 
In front of these is a stone lion, 
and at the back an elephant's 
head and a horse. 


Sadras (D.B. fairly good), an old 
Dqtch settlement, lies on the canal 
3 m. S. of Mamallapuram, but 
hardh' merits a visit. The place. 



ROUTE 36 TIRUKALTKUN'.^AM 


like Mas ulipa tarn, was once tamo us 
for its printed cottons. It may be 
reached by canal boat from 
Guindy Bridge near ^ladras, or 
by motor from Chingleput The 
ruined Dutch fort and the old 
Dutch cemetery are the principal 
objects of interest. 

At Tirukaliktmrain the road 
from Chingleput branches, the N 
branch going to the Seven Pago- 
das, the S. one to Sadras. On the 
latter are two very fine temples — 
one on the hill and one in the 


603 

village— ~a spacious and beautiful 
tank with steps all round, and a 
rock-cut temple, on whose pillars 
are many Dutch signatures. The 
temple in the village i> full of 
ancient inscriptions. Tirukah- 
kunram, “ the sacred hill of the 
kites," or Pakshitirtham, " the 
sacred place oi the birds," is a 
place of pilgrimage, and hundreds 
ot pilgrims flock almost every day 
to see two sacred kites sumptu- 
ously fed on the top of the hill, 
from the hands of a priest, at 
the temple's expense. 



BURMA 


INTRODUCTION 


(The portion of the Handbook relating to Burma was originally written 
by the late Sir E. S. Symes, K. C.I.E,) 

General Description.— The Province of Burma lies to the E. of the 
Bay of Bengal, and covers a range of country stretching from the 
loth to about the 28th parallel of latitude. It is bounded on the 
N. and N.E, by China ; on the N.W. by 'Bengal, Assam, and the 
feudatory State of Manipur ; and on the \V. and S.W, by the sea. 
To the S.E, lies the kingdom of Siam. The extreme length of the 
Province is approximately 1200 m., and its extreme width between 
the 92nd and the loist parallels of longitude at about 20° North 
latitude is 575 m. The total area, including the Shan States, is 
about 262,000 sq. m., and the population, according to the census 
of 1911, was 12,115,217. It is formed of three separate tracts — 
Arakan, the Irrawaddy Valley, and Tenasserim—and is watered by 
five great streams — viz., the Irrawaddy^ the Clirndwin^ the Sittang^ the 
Sahveen^ and the Myit7igl\ The first two rivers have their sources 
in the Northern chain of mountains in the interior, one head-stream 
of the Irrawaddy coming from Tibet, where are also the sources of 
the Salween ; the Sittang rises in the hills S.E. of Mandalay, and 
the Myitnge drains the Shan States to the E. of that city. The 
Irrawaddy and the Salween are great rivers which, in the lower 
part of their course, overflow the flat country below their banks 
during the rainy season, and, higher up, find their way through 
magnificent defiles. The Irrawaddy is navigable for over 900 m., 
but the Salween is practically useless as a means of communication, 
owing to the frequent obstacles in its channel. 

The Northern portion of the Province is in the main an upland 
territory containing much rolling country intersected by occasional 
hill ranges, and with a few isolated tracts of alluvial plain. The 
country throughout the Delta is flat and uninteresting. Towards 

604 



ntroduction 


605 

Prome the valley of the Irrawaddy contracts, and the monotony of 
the plain is diversified by a wooded range of hills, which cling to 
the Western bank nearly all the way to the neighbourhood of 
Thayetmyo, where was the old frontier between Upper and Lower 
Burma. The Salween Valley contains occasional harmonies offorest, 
crag, and mountain stream. On the other hand, the scenery in 
Tavoy and Mergui, and among the myriad islets which fringe the 
Tenasserim coast, is almost English in its verdure and repose. The 
forests of Burma abound in fine trees. Among these teak holds a 
conspicuous place. Almost every description of timber known in 
India is produced in the forests, from which also an abundant supply 
IS obtained of the varnish used by the Burmese in ’the manufacture 
of lacquered ware. Sticklac of an excellent quality is obtained in 
the woods, and rubber has of late years been extensively planted. 
A marked feature in all the forests, and indeed all over Burma, is 
tile beautiful flowering trees. Although there is plenty of large 
game in the country, it is not easy to get at, owing to the dense 
forests and the difliculty of obtaining experienced shikaris and 
baggage - animals ; but good bags of snipe are made all over the 
country from August to December, and partridge, hare, jungle fowl, 
and duck shooting is to be had without difficulty in many parts of 
the Province, 

Burma is rich in minerals. Gold in small quantities is won 
by dredging in the upper reaches of the Irrawaddy River. The 
Bawdwin mines in the Northern Shan States contain one of the 
ricjiest silver-zinc-lead ore bodies known. Wolfram is found over a 
wade area : the Tavoy District is one of the largest wolfram-producing 
areas in the world. Tin is equally widespread. Seams of coal 
occur in various parts, but the quality is poor and no mines are now 
being worked. Mogok supplies the world with rubies ; fine sapphires 
and numerous other precious stones of the less valuable kinds are 
found there, and in the Shan States. Petroleum is obtained in 
large quantities in the Minbu, Magwe, Myingyan, and Pakokku 
Districts of Upper Burma, and in smaller quantities in the Arakan 
Division and elsewhere. Jade and amber are extracted in consider- 
able quantities in the Northern part of the Myitkyina District. In 
Low'er Burma ag-riculture is the main employment of the people. 
Chillies, sesamum, tobacco, and sugar-cane are grown, and orchards 
are found near every village ; but rice covers nine-tenths of the total 
area under cultivation. Over much of the area the soil is very fertile, 
and bears annual crops without any addition to its fertility in the 
shape of manure. In Upper Burma there is much greater variety of 
crops. Rice is the most important crop from the standpoint of area, 
but it occupies less than two-fifths of the total area under crop ; 



6o6 BURMA India 

sesamuin, millets, beans, maize, giound-nut, cotton, tobacco, clniiies 
and wheat are the chief crops after rice. 

The commercial prosperity of the Province has more than kept 
pace with its rapidly increasing population. The chief articles 
exported are rice, timber, beans, cotton, lead, cutch, hides, petroleum, 
candles, rubber, and rubies. The chief imports are machinery, piece- 
goods, silk, cotton, wool, and provisions, especially preserved milk, 
liquors, tobacco, iron, salt, and sugar. 

The main commercial industries are those connected with the rice, 
oil, and timber trade. The indigenous manufactures of the country 
produce little beyond what is required for home consumption. Silk, 
lacquered ware, gold and silver work, wood and ivory carving, are 
among the most justly admired of Burmese handicrafts. The best 
silks are woven at Mandalay, and the silk industry has received a 
salutary impetus from the Saunders' Weaving Institute, which was 
recently established by Government at Amarapura. The principal 
lacquer workers are at Xyaungu, near Pagan ; gold and silver work 
is carried on at Rangoon, Moulmein, Thayetmyo, Mandalay, and to a 
greater or less extent in all the larger towns ; the best w'ood carvers 
are in Rangoon, Tharrawaddy, and Mandalay, and t|^e best ivory 
carvers in Rangoon and Moulmein. The characteristics of Burmese 
art are vigour and novelty in design, but there is no lack of delicacy 
and finish in execution so far as lacquer work and silver and ivory- 
carving are concerned. 

Should Burma be visited after a tour in India, the traveller cannot 
fail to be struck with the great difference in the people and t]|e 
scenery of the two countries. The merry, indolent, brightly-clothed 
Burmese have no counterpart in Hindustan, and the richness of the 
soil and exuberance of the vegetation, together with the sleekness and 
vigour of the cattle, will be at once remarked. The life of the Burmese 
is free from the deadening effects of caste and seclusion of the women 
— twm customs which stereotype the existence of so large a part of the 
inhabitants of India. 

The Burmese as a race are of short stature and thick-set. The 
men wear long hair on their heads, but have little or none on their 
faces : flat in feature, they show unmistakably their near relationship 
to the Chinese. The \vomen are well treated and attractive-looking ; 
they go to market, keep shops, and take their full share in social and 
domestic affairs. Men and women alike are well clad, and delight 
in gay colours and silk attire. 

In religion the Burmese are Buddhists, 86 per cent, of the popula- 
tion professing that religion. But the great majority of Burmans 
everywhere, and practically all village Burmans, retain the primi- 
tive reverence for the the spirits of the forests, mountains, 



INTRODUCTION 


607 

etc. This, Sir George Scott observes, ” is the heritage of an im- 
memorial past ; it is the core of the popular faith.’' The Burman 
has learnt certain formulas ; he is scrupulous in giving alms to the 
monks, and he worships on set days at the pagoda: “but he 
governs his life and actions by a consideration of what the spirits of 
the air, the forest, the stream, the villag’-e, or the house may do if they 
are not propitiated.’’ To these who have their appropriate 

bhrines, he makes otferings to a\ert misfortune, and of them he seeks 
favour for any undertaking, such as building a house or a boat, or 
making a journey. Each family has a tutelary deity or mif of its 
own, to which a thank-offering is made at the birth of a child or the 
solemnisation of a marriage. Every Burman is supposed to spend a 
certain part of his life as a novice, wearing the yellow robe, in the 
pdngyi (monastery). This is now frequently only a ceremonial 

observance for a single week ; but some stay longer, and some remain 
to become pongyis or monks. The monks are the schoolmasters of 
the country, and perform this duty in return for the support they 
receive from the people. The shaven head and yellow robe 
of the monk are a common sight in all Burmese villages and 
towns. ^ 

History.— The earliest European connection with Burma was in 
^519, when the Portuguese concluded a treaty with the King of Pegu 
and established factories at Martaban and Syriam. Before 1600 the 
Butch settled on the island of Negrais, at the mouth of the Bassein 
Kiver, and soon after the English East India Company had factories 
at Syriam, Prome, Ava, and perhaps Bbamo. About the middle of 
the 17th century all European merchants were expelled from the 
country, owing to a dispute between the Burmese Governor of Pegu 
and the Dutch. The Dutch never returned. In 1688 the Burmese 
Governor of Syriam wrote to the English Governor of Madras invit- 
ing British merchants to settle in Pegu, and in 1698 a commercial 
Resident was sent to Syriam, and a factory was built there, and 
others at Negrais and Bassein. The French also had a settlement 
at Syriam. Meanwhile the Burmese dynasty of Ava was destroyed 
by the rebellion of the Taking kingdom of Pegu, and the Takings 
held sway in Burma till the middle of the i8th century, \\hen 
Akung-paya, kno\vn as Alompra, whose dynasty till recently reigned 
in Upper Burma, succeeded in uniting his countrymen and crushing 
the Takings. In 1755 Alompra founded Rangoon to celebrate his 
conquest of the Takings, and destroyed Syriam. After Alompra’s 
success he found that the French merchants had been supplying 
warlike stores to the Takings, and he put all Frenchmen to death. . 
The English, who had generally supported the Burmese, were 
granted the island of Negrais and a factory at Bassein. In 1759, 



6o8 


BURMA 


India 


however, they were suspected of assisting rebels, so their factories 
were destroyed, and lo Englishmen and lOO natives of India were 
murdered. In the following year Alompra died while laying siege 
to Ayuthia, the capital of Siam, and the English obtained permission 
from his successor, Naungdawgyi, to re-establish the Bassein factory. 
Sinbyuyin, who succeeded Naungdawgyi, took Manipur and Siam, 
and defeated two inroads from China. He died in 1776, and was 
succeeded by Bodawpaya, who conquered Arakan in 1784. This 
brought Burma into collision with the British in Chittagong. The 
Arakanese outlaws took refuge over the border, and harassed the 
Burmese rulers by inroads from British territory. This gave rise 
to friction, and m order to assist in the adjustment of matters in 
dispute, an envoy was sent to Burma in 1795 by the Governor- 
General of India. In 1819 Bodawpaya died, and was succeeded by 
Bagyidaw. Matters had not improved on the border, and in 1824 
the Burmese invaded Manipur and Assam, and Maha Bandula, the 
great Burmese General, started with an army from Ava to take 
command in Arakan and invade Bengal. 

The British Government formally declared war against Burma on 
5th March 1824. The Burmese were driven out of A»sam, Cachar, 
and Manipur ; and Rangoon, Mergui, Tavoy, and Martaban were 
occupied by British troops. These, however, suffered much from 
sickness as soon as the rains began. All movements by land became 
impracticable, and by December the force occupying Rangoon had 
been reduced by sickness and otherwise to about 1300 Europeans 
and 2500 Indians fit for duty. The Burmese, under Maha Bandula, 
made a determined effort to drive the invaders into the sea ; but 
their attack, in which 60,000 men are said to have taken part, was 
repulsed with great slaughter, and the Burmese army dwindled away, 
a portion of it retiring to Danubyu, which Maha Bandula fortified 
with some skill for a further effort. The British troops, having 
been reinforced, marched up the Irrawaddy Valley, and on 2nd April 
1825 took Danubyu. Maha Bandula was killed in the cannonade, 
and with him all serious resistance came to an end. Prome was 
occupied, and the troops went into Cantonments for the rains. In 
September 1825 the Burmese endeavoured to treat, but, as they 
would not agree to the terms offered, hostilities recommenced ; and 
in December the British advanced, and, after several actions with 
the Burmese troops, reached Yandabo, i6th February 1826. Here 
the envoys of the King signed a Treaty ceding to the British Assam, 
Arakan, and the coast of Tenasserim, and agreeing to pay a million 
sterling towards the cost of the war. In November 1826 a com- 
mercial Treaty was signed at Ava, and in 1830 the first British 
Resident was appointed under the Treaty to the Burmese capital. 



INTRODUCTION 


609 

In 1837 Bagyidaw was deposed by his brother Tharrawaddy, who 
m 1846 was succeeded by his son Pagan Min. 

In 1852, owing to a succession of outrages committed on British 
subjects by the Burmese Governor of Rangoon, for w’hich all repara- 
tion was refused, the British again declared w'ar against the King of 
Burma ; and towards the close of the same year Lord Dalhousie 
proclaimed that the w'hole of the Province of Pegu, as far N. as the 
parallel of latitude 6 m. N. of the fort at Myede, was annexed to the 
British Empire. Almost immediately after this Pagan xMin was 
deposed by his brother Mindon Min, who ruled his curtailed kingdom 
with wisdom and success. 

The pacification of Pegu and its reduction to order occupied about 
ten years of constant w^ork. In 1862 the British possessions in Burma 
- -namely, the Provinces of Arakan. Pegu, Martaban, and Tenasserim 
— Avere amalgamated and formed into the Province of British 
Burma, under the administration of a Chief- Commissioner, Lieu- 
tenant-Colonel (afterwards Sir Arthur) Phayre being appointed to 
that office. 

In October 1878 King Mindon died, and w^as succeeded by his son. 
King Thibaw, fifth in descent from Alompra. Early in 1879 the 
execution of a number of the royal family excited much horror in 
Lower Burma, and relations became much strained owung to the 
indignation of Englishmen at the barbarities of the Burmese Court, 
and the resentment of the King and his Ministers at the attitude of 
the British Resident. In October 1879, owing to the unsatisfactory 
position of the British Resident in Mandalay, the Government 
of India withdrew^ their representative from the Burmese Court. 
Meanw^hile, under the lax rule of Thibaw the condition of Upper 
Burma had been g-radually drifting from bad to w’orse. The Central 
Government lost control of many of the outlying districts, and the 
elements of disorder on the British frontier were a standing menace 
to the peace of Lower Burma. The King, in contravention of Treaty 
obligations, created monopolies to the detriment of the trade of both 
Kngland and Burma, and, wTile the Indian Government w^as un- 
represented at Mandalay, representatives of France and Italy were 
welcomed, and two separate embassies w^ere sent to Europe for the 
purpose of contracting alliances with sundry Continental pow-ers. 
Matters w^ere brought to a crisis in 18851 when the Burmese Court 
imposed a fine of Rs. 2, 300, 000 upon the Bombay-Burma Trading 
Corporation, and refused the proposal of the Indian Government to 
submit the matter to arbitration. In view of the long series of 
unsatisfactory episodes in the British relations with Burma during 
Phibaw’s reign, the Government of India decided once for all to 
adjust the relations between the twx) countries. An ultimatum w^as 



6io 


BURMA 


India 


sent to King Thibaw, requiring him to suspend action against the 
Corporation : to receive at Mandalay an envoy from the Viceroy, who 
should be treated with the respect due to the Government which he 
represented ; and to regulate the external relations of the country 
in accordance with the advice of the Government of India. This 
ultimatum was despatched on 22nd October 1885. On 9th November 
a reply was received in Rangoon amounting to an unconditional 
refusal of the terms laid down. On 7th November King Thibaw 
issued a proclamation calling on his subjects to drive the British 
heretics into the sea. On 14th November 1885 the British expedi- 
tion crossed the frontier, and advanced to Mandalay without 
encountering any serious resistance. On 28th the British occupied 
Mandalay, and next day the King and his evil genius, the Queen 
Supaya Lat, were sent down to Rangoon and afterwards to Indja. 
He died at Ratnagiri, S. of Bombay, on 15th December 1916. 
Upper Burma was formally annexed on ist January 1886, and the 
work of restoring the country to order and introducing settled govern- 
ment commenced. For some years the country was disturbed by the 
lawless spirits who had been multiplying under the late regime^ but by 
the close of 1889 all the larger bands of marauders had been broken 
up, and since 1890 Upper Burma has enjoyed greater freedom from 
crimes of violence than the Province formerly known as British 
Burma. In the time of Burmese rule China claimed a certain shadowy 
suzerainty over the Burmese empire. In July 1886 a Convention was 
signed at Peking, whereby China recognised British rule in Burma, 
and agreed to the demarcation of the frontier and the encouragement 
of international trade. By a further Treaty, signed on the ist March 
1894, the frontier was defined, and new arrangements made for the 
encouragement of trade and the linking of the telegraph systems of 
Burma and China. A breach of the Treaty by the Chinese in 1895 led 
to the conclusion of a supplementary agreement on the 4th February 
1897, which defined the boundary afresh and made further provision 
for opening China to trade. For some years after the annexation of 
Upper Burma there was some uncertainty with regard to the boundary 
between Siam and a portion of certain of the Shan States. The 
Siamese claimed as part of the Province of Chengmai so much of 
Karenni, and of some other small States as lay to the east of the 
Salween. In order to investigate these claims the territory was 
visited by Mr Ney Elias in 1890. The Siamese refused to take part 
in that exploration, but in 1892-3 a Joint Commission of English 
and Siamese officers demarcated the frontier along the line selected by 
Mr Ney Elias. In 1897 the Province was constituted a Lieutenant- 
Governorship under Sir Frederick Fryer. The present Lieutenant- 
Governor is the Hon. Sir Reginald Henry Craddock, K.C.S.I The 



^ INTRODUCTION 6ll 

Army in Burma is now under the command of a Major-General, and 
forms the Burma Division. 

The census of 1911 showed that the population had increased 
during the past decade by 15 per cent. The trade of the Province 
has greatly developed under British rule. The standard of living 
among the agricultural classes has improved. 

Climate, etc.— The climate of the Province for some distance 
trom the coast consists of a wet season, from 15th May to isth 
November, and a dry season for the rest of the year. Farther inland 
the rain becomes less ; but, as Burma must at present be reached from 
the sea, the best time for visiting the Province is from November until 
February. During the wet season the rainfall at Rangoon is heavy 
—amounting to upwards of 90 in., and after February the heat is 
considerable till the first refreshing showers fall in May. 

Means of Access.— The quickest route to Burma is" by Brindisi 
to Bombay, rail to Calcutta or Madras, and thence steamer tc 
Rangoon. A favourite route is by the Bibby line, which despatches 
steamers to Rangoon from Liverpool and London every fortnight, 
i he steamers are large and well found in every respect, and perform 
the journey from Liverpool to Rangoon in about 30-32 days 
(see p. clxxv). They call at Marseilles and Colombo, and if the 
traveller proceeds to Alarseilles by train he can complete the 
journey to Rangoon in seventeen days. Messrs Henderson also run 
steamers from Liverpool (15 Vincent Street) to Rangoon. Rangoon 
can also be reached from Calcutta, Madras, or Colombo, by the 
steamers of the British India Steam Navigation Co. The voyages 
from Calcutta and Madras occupy three and four days ; that from 
Colombo takes six to seven days. The steamers from Calcutta to 
Rangoon start thrice a week ; those from Madras (90 hours’ sea 
voyage) once a week, and from Colombo once a fortnight. (These 
arrangements, of pre-War time, have been upset by the War.) 

General Hints. — Burma has hitherto been little visited by tourists, 
and travelling arrangements, except on the railway and by a few main 
lines of steamer communication, are primitive. Letters of introduction 
will be useful. Except at a few places (Rangoon, Moulmein, and 
Mandalay) there are no hotels, and the traveller, when he quits line 
of railway or Irrawaddy steamer, must get leave from the Deputy 
Commissioner of the district to put up at Government bungalows, and 
must take bedding and a few cooking utensils with him. He will do 
well also to provide himself with some books about Burma. A list of 
them will be found in the Introduction, at p. xxxi. Free use is made 
of the works there mentioned, and especially of Shway Yoe, in the 
following pages. 

Pagodas and Monasteries. — The pagodas and monasteries form 



6i2 


BXJKMA 


India 


the chief objects of interest throughout Burma, and as they are 
mostly built on very similar plans a general description of these two 
classes of religious buildings will be useful. The following description 
is taken in the main from Shway Yoe. The Pagodas^ while differing 
in various minor details, consist almost invariably of a masonry terrace, 
a high plinth, a bell-shaped body, and a ti or “ umbrella ’’ spire, a 
construction formed of concentric rings of beaten iron lessening to a 
rod with a small vane on the top. From the rings hang little bells 
with fiat elongated clappers, which are caught by the wind and main- 
tain day and night a melodious ringing. They are usually built upon 
elevated platforms, and are erected over relics of Gautama Buddha. 
In almost all the larger pagodas there are arched wings on eijch face, 
serving, as it were, as antechapels, and each containing a figure of 
Gautama, while the surrounding platform is frequently studded with 
minor temples, image houses, altars for the deposit of offerings, large 
bells, flag-posts, images of strange monsters, and other curious objectb. 
These pagodas are to be found in every village in Burma, capping the 
hills frequently in out-of-the-way places, and contributing everywhere 
to the picturesqueness of the country. There is a special reason for 
this multiplication of fanes. No work is so highly regarded as the 
building of a pagoda. The builder is looked upon as a saint on 
earth, and when he dies he attains the holy rest, , It avails little to 
repair a previous dedication, unless it be one of the great world 
shrines at Rangoon, Pegu, Prome, or Mandalay. According to 
custom and tradition, in order to prevent the admixture of karma^ or 
merit, shrines built by royalties must not be repaired by commoners, 
and among commoners themselves the previous consent of the 
original founders, or their descendants, is always necessary to 
repair an old religious building. Hence old pagodas are seldom 
repaired, but new ones are constantly springing up. Outside most 
villages in Burma, however small, there stands also a monastery 
or pongyi kyaung^ where the monks pass their tranquil lives and 
supply a simple education to the children of the village. Ordin- 
arily the monastery is built of teak, but in many places brick build- 
ings are now being erected. The shape is always oblong, and the 
inhabited portion is raised on posts or pillars some 8 ft, or lo ft. above 
the ground. They are never more than one storey high, for it would 
be an indignity to a holy monk to have any one over his head. .A. 
flight of steps leads up to the veranda, which extends all along the 
N. and S. sides and frequently all round the building. The steps are 
usually adorned with carvings or plaster figures of nats or ogres. 
From the raised floor rises the building with tier upon tier of dark 
massive roofs capped at intervals with tapering spires or pyatthats. 
The buildings are in many cases ornamented with the most elaborate 



INTRODUCTION 


613 

caning. The interior accommodation is ven* simple. It consists, in 
the main, of a great central hall divided into two portions, one level 
with the veranda where the scholars are taught, and the other a 
raised dais 2 ft. or so above the level of the building. Seated upon 
this the priests are accustomed to receive visitors, and at the back, 
against the wall, are arranged images of Gautama interspersed with 
manuscript chests, small shrines, fans, and other religious implements, 
and miscellaneous gifts of the pious, heaped together ordinarily in 
very careless fashion. There are occasionally dormitories for the 
monks, but, as a rule, they sleep in the central hall, where the mats 
which form their beds may be seen rolled up round the pillows 
against the wall. In many monasteries there is a special room for the 
palm-leaf scribes, often detached irom the main building, as are the 
cook-room and the bathing-houses. In one corner is usually a ihein^ 
a budding for the performance of various rites and ceremonies, and 
more particularly for the examination and ordination of priests. The 
traveller will find it perfectly easy to visit and closely inspect as many 
pagodas and monasteries as he pleases. The pagodas are open to 
all, and at the monasteries he may be generally certain of a friendly 
welcome from the priests, provided he can speak Burmese or is 
accompanied by any one acquainted with that language. The priests 
are tieated with great respect by the people of the country, and are 
invariably addressed as paya^ or lord ; and any one who visits a 
monastery should therefore bear in mind that the monks are accus- 
tomed to be treated with deference. 

Pw^s . — The traveller should make a point before leaving Burma 
of seeing something of the P'lve, the national amusement of the 
people. Pwes are of four kinds — the Zat pwe^ which consists of 
acting, singing, dancing, and clowning ; the Vokthe p’zue, in which a 
similar performance is gone through by marionettes : the Vezn pwe^ 
a kind of ballet, with music and song, performed by a considerable 
company of young men or maidens, as the case may be ; and the 
Anyein pTjut\ in which the number of actors is very limited : it is also 
accompanied with song and music, lasting from about 9 P.M. to about 
2 A.M. Vein pwes are usually performed only on special occasions — 
in honour of some high official, or at a great pagoda feast ; but Zat 
pwes, Yokthe pwes, and Anyein pwes are of constant occurrence on 
nearly all moonlight nights in every large town, and the traveller 
should have no difficulty in seeing all forms of entertainment, either 
m Rangoon or Mandalay. The performances take place in the open 
air, last all night, and usually for several nights in succession, and 
are free and open to all, the actors being paid by the giver of the 
entertainment. The majority of the audience stay the whole night — 
say from 8 p.m. till sunrise ; but an hour or two of the performance 



BURMA 


India 


614 

will probably satisfy the British traveller. A full description of the 
different kinds of pwe is given by Shway Voe in chapter 29 of 
The Bunnan, 

The Irrawaddy Flotilla Company deserves special notice as one 
of the most successful steamer enterprises of modern days. The 
various vessels of the Company’s fleet were nearly 300 in number, 
representing a tonnage of 92,000 tons , and regular services by 
express and cargo - boats were maintained between Rangoon and 
Mandalay, Bassein, and Henzada, between Mandalay and Katha 
and Bhamo, up the Chindwin, and for a short way up the Salween 
River. For sailings to Mandalay and Bhamo, see Index under these 
places. 





CantfmnLetit oviilm^d tn. 




RANGOON 


^>15 


RANGOON. 


Arrival. — It may Ix' taken for i 
granted that the traveller, either 1 
from England or from India, will 1 
land at Rangoon, and it v’lll there- 
fore be convenient hr&t to describe 
the principal objects of interest in ' 
that citv. and then to mention a 
few of the principal tours which 
can be made thence to other parts 
of the Province. 

RANGOON * flat. 16° 46^ long. 
06^ ii') lb the capital of the , 
Province and the seat of the Local i 
Government. It is situated on 
the Rangoon River, which is con- , 
nected bv waterwav with the ; 
Irrawaddy In 1852 it was a 
mere fishing village. In 1911 it j 
was a city of over 293,000 inhabi- | 
tants, having a trade larger than 1 
that of any Indian port save only , 
Calcutta and Bombay The value j 
of the private sea.-borne trade is j 
now /3 9, 000, 000 Forty years ' 

ago it was under 43,000.000 The i 
trade is divided into 415,000,000 j 
of imports and £24,000,000 of j 
exports. The imports are princi- 1 
pally cotton goods, metals, pro- | 
visions, silk, machinery, and | 
sugar ; the exports, rice (two- [ 
thirds of the whole), wood, raw 1 
cotton, oils, and hides. The num- j 
ber of steamers entering and j 
clearing from tlie port is about | 
1390, with a tonnage of 2,630,000 1 
tons ; and the receipts of the Port j 
Trust amount to £244,200 yearly 
The number of sailing-vessels is 
125, with a tonnage of 1 1,000 tons. 
During the same period the popu- 
lation has increased from about 

90.000 to 293,000 souls, of whom 

97.000 are Burmese, 108,000 Hin- 
dus, 54,000 ^Muhammadans, 23.000 ■ 
Christians, and 7000 Chinese. | 
An electric tramway runs E. and 1 
W. through the town and business | 
quarters, and to the Shwe Dagon | 
Pagoda. The municipality covers ' 
an area of about 31 sq. m., and I 
has an income of 40 J lakh? of ! 
rupees. 


Rangoon city consists of the 
municipality, the Cantonment, and 
the port, ft is lit with electricity. 
Its water supply is obtained from 
a large reserv^oir lake constructed 
at Hlawga, about 17 m. beyond 
the town. The drainage system 
consists of gravitating sewers, 
which receive the sewage from 
house connections and carry it to 
ejectors. These discharge their 
contents automatically into a 
mam sewer, through which all 
the night soil and sullage water 
are forced into an outfall near the 
mouth of the river The system 
has been working with most suc- 
cessful results. 

The principal objects of interest 
in and around Rangoon may be 
classihed as follows : — 

I The pagodas and monas- 
teries. 

2. The bazars and native 

shops. 

3. The rice, timber, and oil 

works. 

4. The public buildings. 

5. The Cantonments, parks, and 

lakes 

6. The remains at Synam 

(i) Pagodas and Monasteries. 
— There are numerous pagodas in 
and about Rangoon. The Shwe 
Dagon and the Side deserve special 
mention. The great Shwe Bagon 
Pagoda is the most venerable, the 
lines t, and the most universally 
visited of all places of worship in 
Indo -China. Its peculiar sanctity 
is due to the fact that it is the 
onlv pagoda known to Buddhists 
which is credited with containing 
actual relics, not only of Gautama, 
but of the three Buddhas who 
preceded him in this world. 
Hence it attracts countless pil- 
grims, not only from all parts of 
Burma, but also from Cambodia, 
Siam, Korea, and Ceylon. It is 
.situated about 2 m. from the 
Strand, and may be reached either 
by electric tramway (much used 



6i6 


BURMA 


India 


both l*v Europeans and ’ndn.ii--), 
or by ta-a or ticca gharry. The | 
stately pile stands upon a mound, 
partly natural and partly artificial, i 
which has been cut into tvv'o | 
rectangular terraces one above ! 
the other, each side, as in the j 
case of all pagodas, facing one of ! 
the cardinal points of the compass. | 
The upper terrace, which has been 
carefully levelled and paved and : 
repaved by the pious, rises i66 ft. ; 
from the level of the ground, and 
is 900 ft. long by 685 ft. wide. 
The ascent was by four flights of 
brick steps, one opposite the centre 
of each face — but the Western face 
has been closed by the fortifica- 
tions built by the British con- 
queror to dominate the town and 
secure the pagoda, where there 
was so much desperate fighting 
in the Burmese Wars. The S. 
ascent is that most frequently 
used. At the foot are two gigantic 
leogryphs, built of brick and 
covered with plaster. The effect 
IS rather spoilt by an external 
porch which was added. From 
them up to the platform the 
long stairs are covered by a rising 
series of handsomely-carved teak 
roofs, supported on huge wood 
and masonry pillars. The heavy 
cross-beams and the panelling are 
in many places embellished with 
frescoes representing scenes in the 
life of Gautama and his disciples, 
and with hideously curious repre- 
sentations of the tortures of the 
wicked. The steps themselves are 
exceedingly primitive and dilapi- 
dated, consisting in some parts of 
broad stone flags, and in others 
of simple sun-dried bricks, worn 
by the feet of myriads of wor- 
shippers. On either side are 
beggars and numerous stalls, at 
which gold-leaf, flowers, and other 
offerings may be bought, and on 
the E. side, just a little above the 
bottom of the flight of steps, there 
is a small bazar in which marion- 
ettes, gongs, drums, etc., may be 
obtained. The stairs debouch on 
.. broad, open, flagged space, which 


runs all round the pagoda, and is 
left free for worshippers. In the 
centre of this springs, from an 
octagonal plinth, the pagoda 
itself (see Fergusson’s Eastern 
Architectiire, 2, 342-7). It has a 
circumference of 1355 ft , and 
rises to a height of about 370 ft., 
or a little higher than St Paul’s 
Cathedral. It is profusely gilt 
from base to summit, and is sur- 
mounted by the usual gilt iron- 
work ti or “ umbrella," on each of 
w'hose many rings hang multitudes 
of gold and silver jewelled bells. 
This ti was presented by Mindon 
Mm, the late King of Burma, and 
was placed on the summit at a cost 
of about £^0,000 It was con- 
structed by voluntary labour, and 
subscriptions in money and jewels, 
with which the vane and upper- 
most band are richly studded, 
flowed in from all parts of Burma 
The pagoda has recently been 
encircled by several rings of elec- 
tric incandescent lamps, which are 
lit every night and make it almost 
as conspicuous a landmark by 
night as it has always been by day. 
Some years ago the whole pagoda 
was re gilt, and the ti was then 
lowered to the platform, and re- 
placed, renovated and with many 
costly jewels added. At the cor- 
ners of the basement are somewhat 
Assyrian-hke figures of Manok- 
thiha — creatures with two bodies 
and one head, half Hon, half man, 
with huge ears and ruffled crest — 
and all round about are figures of 
lions displaying an ample show of 
teeth between their grinning lips. 
The tale is that a certain Indian 
Princess became the wife of a 
lion ; subsequently this lion was 
slain by his own son. Soon after 
the Prince was seized with a severe 
ailment, which could be cured 
only by dedicating to a pagoda 
the figure of a lion Since then, 
it is said, the placing of the figures 
of lions at the entrances of pagodas 
has been in vogue. In realitv 
these hons are the dwarpalas, or 
guardians of the entrance to the 



RANGOON 


617 


pagodas, and were probably relics 
ot tlie pre - Buddhist cults ol 
India 

The four chapels at the foot of 
the pagoda are adorned by colossal 
figures of the sitting Buddha, and 
m the farthest recess, in a niche 
of its own, is a still more goodly 
figure, the thick gilding darkened 
m many places by the fumes of 
thousands of burning tapers and 
candles. Hundreds of Gautamas, 
large and small, sitting, standing, 
and reclining, white and black, of 
alabaster, sun-dried clay, or wood, 
surround and are propped up on 
the larger images. High stone 
altars for the offering of rice and 
flowers stand before the lion"' 
interspersed with niche altars fur 
burnt offerings On the outer 
edge of the platform are a host of 
small pagodas, each with its ti ; 
tazaimgs, image-houses overflow- 
ing with the gifts of generations 
of pilgrims ; figures of Buddha 
in single low stone chapels ; tall 
posts (called tagundaing) , flaunting 
from which are long cylindrical 
streamers of bamboo framework, 
pasted over with paper or cloth, 
depicting scenes from the sacred 
history, and often inscribed with I 
pious invocations from the offerer, 
or surmounted by the sacred hintha 
(Brahminy goose), the emblem of j 
the Talaings, or the kalaweik, the j 
crane of the Burmese. Inter- - 
spersed among these are multi- 
tudes of bells of all sizes The j 
bells are hung on stout cross- j 
beams, and beside them he deers’ 
antlers and wooden stakes with I 
which the worshipper strikes them , 
as he passes, and so calls the , 
attention of nats and men to his ' 
acts of piety. The alternative j 
strokes must be struck on the i 
ground, so as to invoke the testi- ' 
mony of the god of the earth In 
the N.E. comer, covered b_v a 
gaily-decorated wooden shed, hangs 
a bell of enormous size, inside I 
which half - a - dozen men can , 
stand. It was presented by King | 
Tharrawaddv in 1840, and is said 


j to weigh 42 1 tons, and to be the 
! third largest bell in the world. It 
; bears a long inscription recounting 
i the merits gained by the monarch 
j who presented it. The bell has a 
S curious history. After the Second 
' JSurmese ^^"ar the British made an 
attempt to carry it off to Calcutta 
as a trophy, but by some mishap 
it was sunk to the bottom of the 
river. The European engineers 
failed to raise it. The Burmans 
after some years begged that the 
sacred bell might be restored to 
them if thev could recover it. 
The petition was granted with a 
sneer ; but they set to work, got 
it out, by lashing bamboos to it 
and causing it to float from its 
sunk position, and carried it in 
triumph to the place where it now 
hangs It would be impossible to 
describe in an)" detail the myriad 
objects of interest which are 
gathered on the pagoda platform ; 
but the traveller should not fail to 
examine the magnificent carving at 
the head of the Eastern ascent, nor 
that on the canopy of the colossal 
recumbent figure of Gautama on 
the Western face of the platform. 
The carving and inlaid glass work 
on all four of the chapels attached 
to the pagoda itself deserve notice, 
the carving over the Eastern 
chapel being particularly curious ; 
it has been supposed to represent 
a scene from the life of the*Buddha, 
or from one of the Jatakas, got 
up in a modem style, illustrative 
of the capture of the pagoda by 
the British. The British soldiers, 
with their rifles, and their olficers. 
each holding a telescope to his eye, 
are clearly recognisable on the 
highest tier, while on a lower tier 
the defeated Burmese show little 
bign of despondency. In the N.E. 
comer of the platform will be 
found the graves of certain officers 
killed in the Second Burmese War. 
To the W. of the platform is the 
( ^nvernm ent Arsenal At the base 
of the pagoda hill are many mon- 
astencs embowered in groves of 
palmvra palms and shadv trees. 



BURMA 


India 


6iS 


and to the S. is a small convent of I 
nuns, not far from the Rest-house ! 
built by the King of Siam for ! 
pilgrims from his dominions. 

The platform is never deserted. i 
Even long after midnight the voice , 
of the worshipper may be heard in 
the night air chanting his pious 
aspirations, while on feast-days 
the laughing, joyous crowd of men , 
and maidens in their gay national 
dress makes the platform ol the | 
Shwe Dagon one of the finest : 
sights in the world. The visitor ^ 
should, if possible, take an inter- 
preter with him, and should pro- , 
vide himself with a few rupees 
He can then, if he pleases, have I 
his fortune told by one of the 1 
numerous sayas, who are always | 
to be found on the platform ; or 
he can buy for a rupee or two one 
of the quaint triangular gongs used | 
by the religious mendicants to | 
attract the attention of the pious, ; 
or supply himself with gold-leaf, 1 
prayer flags, flowers, or specimens 1 
of the curious marionetes and 
other toys which are oflered for 
sale on the steps and on the plat- 
form. 

Buddhists fix the date of the j 
erection of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda 
at 588 B c. ; but state that the site 
was sacred for cycles before, since 
the relics of the three preced- : 
ing Buddhas were found interred ! 
when the two Talaing brothers, 1 
Taphussa and Bhallika, came 
with their precious eight hairs of ■ 
Gautama to the sacred hill. The i 
original pagoda is said to have ! 
been only 27 ft. high, and to have 
attained its present height by 
being repeatedly cased with an 
outer covering of bricks several ^ 
feet in thickness. The shrine has ^ 
remained unaltered in size and 
shape since 1564, and probably ’ 
will never be altered again. At ! 
ail times and at all distances it | 
appears imposing and sublime, j 
like the religion whose followers I 
have built it. It looks best, per- 
haps, on a bright moonlight night, 
and the traveller is advised, if 


practicable, to pay a visit to the 
platform bv night as well as 
by (]av The above description 
comes mainly from Shway ’Voe. 

A useful little local guide can be 
purchased in Rangoon Another 
guide-book to the pagoda has been 
prepared by Dr Baker, the Secre- 
tary to the Y.jNI.C A. 

The Sule Pagoda, close to the 
Strand, is w^ell worth a visit, and 
the traveller will be much inter- 
ested if he ascends the platform 
and examines the many curious 
shrines and figures with which it 
i.s adorned. Among others will 
be found a representation of the 
Stile Nat, the spirit after whom the 
pagoda is named, and the legend- 
ary guardian of the hill upon 
which the Shwe Dagon Pagoda 
is erected Behind the Nga- 
datkyi Pagoda, near the Royal 
Lakes, at Tamwe, on an eminence, 
has been built an enormous reclin- 
ing figure of Buddha called the 
Shwe Tha Lyaung, which monthly 
attracts thousands of people, 
including many Europeans. The 
cavity of each ear could easily 
accommodate two or three per- 
sons. 

The Rangoon Monasteries are 
very numerous. They are none of 
them of any special interest, and 
the traveller will probably be 
satisfied by paying a brief visit 
to two or three of them. Some of 
the most picturesque are at Kem- 
mendine, near the railway station, 
and a visit to them may be com- 
bined with an inspection of the 
images of Gautama in process of 
manufacture hard by, and of the 
shops of the kalaga makers, which 
are also at Kemmendine. The 
kalaga is a kind of blanket, usually 
red, covered with strange figures 
in applique work. Kalagas can 
sometimes be purchased ready- 
made, but must usually be ordered 
beforehand. They make quaint 
and handsome portieres or hang- 
; ings There are other large mon- 
asteries in Bahan. Wingaba, God- 
win Road, and at Pazundanng. 



RANGOON 


6l0 


(2) The Bazars and Indian 
Shops. — The bazars are a great 
institution throughout Burma 
Ihey are large markets, usually 
the property of the municipality, 
in which much of the retail trade 
of the country is carried on. 
They are also the great centres 
of gossip among the Burmese. A 
visit should be made to the 
municipal bazars on the Strand 
Road and at Kemmendme, and 
to the Surah bazar in China 
Street. At the bazar in Strand 
Road specimens of the silks and 
lacquer work for which Burma is I 
famous can be purchased. Apart | 
from the bazars, the Indian shops | 
are not of special interest. A ! 
feature of Rangoon that needs i 
mention are the Indian night stalls j 
along the footpaths principally of ' 
the bazar quarter, where a great ; 
variety of eatables and merchan- | 
dise are sold The best shops for j 
the traveller who wishes to buy j 
without waiting while Burmese j 
craftsmen make to his order are | 
Hirst, in Phayre Street, for ' 
Burmese curios; Khaimchand Tej- 
mal, in Phayre Street, for Bur- 
mese, Chinese, and Japanese curios, j 
and for oriental silks, etc. ; Goona- j 
mal Parasram. in Merchant Street, 
for Burmese and Indian goods. ^ 
In the above shops he will find , 
fair specimens of oriental art at 
reasonable prices ; but it he : 
desires the best, or wishes to see i 
the articles in process of manu- 
facture and to buy rather more ; 
cheaply, he should go to Godwin ! 
Road for silver or woodwork i 
carving. He will find several - 
shops on the E. side of the road. : 
For silver work Maung'Shwe Yon , 
and Mating Po Thet are about the j 
best. But these men maintain 
little or no stock of articles for 
sale. The traveller must order 
what he wants and wait till he i 
gets it. The usual charge for ' 
embossed silver bowls is double i 
the weight of the bowl in rupees ; 
but for the finest work prices are ' 
higher. 


(3) The Rice. Timber, and Oil 
Works.— It will be worth while to 
visit one of the great rice • mills. 
Those of Messrs Steel Bros., 
at K'anaungto, and of Messrs 
Bulloch Bros., at Pazundaung, are 
two of the largest, and permission 
to visit them can generally be 
obtained. There are over 130 
nce-mills in Burma, and nearly 
roo saw-mills, employing 43.000 
hands. The Bombay - Burma 
Trading Corporation’s timber-yard 
at Alon, the Government timber 
depot at Alon, and the Bombay - 
l^urma Trading Corporation's saw- 
mill and tirnber depot at Dalla 
should also be visited. Elephants 
are employed there to stack the 
timber, and it is interesting to 
observe the intelligence with 
which they perform the task. 
The oil works of the Burma Oil 
Co., Ltd., at Dunneedaw and 
Syriam, are also worth seeing. 

(4) The Public Buildings — Ran- 
goon can boast of many fine public 
buildings. The Post Office, the 
Currency Buildings, and the Sailors’ 
Home are on the Strand ; the 
Telegraph Office at the comer of 
Dalhousie and Phayre Streets ; 
and the new Court Houses on Barr 
Street facing Fytche Square gar- 
den. To the E. of the business 
quarter is a fine pile of buildings 
lor the accommodation of the Secre- 
tariat and other pubKc offices. 
In front of it will be noticed the 
‘Services Memorial” — drinking 

+ountain erected by members of 
the various Civil Services of the 
Pro\dnce in memory of their 
(.omrades who were killed or died 
during the Third Burmese War. 
I'he names of the officers com- 
memorated are inscribed on the 
-hields surrounding the fountain, 
i'he very handsome Roman Catho- 
lic Cathedral is at the corner of 
Montgomery Street and Sparks 
Street, close to the Secretariat 
Buildings. To the X.W. of the 
Cantonment is Government House 
a handsome three - :>toreyed 



BURMA 


India 


r>2o 


building, erected at a cost of 6 j 
lakhs of rupees. The Eangoon i 
College and the General Hospital, ' 
situated on either side of Commis- 
sioner’s Road, are spacious build- 
ings, and near to them is the 
Anglican Cathedral. Travellers 
interested m the progress of educa- 
tion in the E. would do well to pay 
a visit to the College, and also to 
St John’s ( 5 .P.G.), on Mission 
Road and St John’s Road ; St 
Paul’s (Roman Catholic), near the 
new public buildings ; and the 
Baptist Institutions at Alon, The 
Bernard Free Library, m the com- 
pound of the Rangoon College, 
contains an interesting collection 
of ancient Pali, Burmese, Talaing, 
and Sanskrit palm-leaf manu- 
scripts, The Government Print- 
ing-Press is situated to the E. of 
the Secretariat. In the N.E, 
corner of the Parade Ground the 
Jubilee Hall, which serves as a 
theatre, was erected to commem- 
orate the Jubilee of her late 
Gracious Majesty Queen Victoria. 
The hall is used for public meeting-^ 
and for recreation purposes. A 
statue has been erected at the 
entrance to Dalhousie Park as a 
memorial of King Edward. Lastly 
among public buildings may be 
mentioned the Railway Station on 
King George Avenue, the Dufferin 
Hospital in Mission Road, and the 
Jail on Commissioner’s Road, one 
of the largest in the British 
Empire, having accommodation 
for over 3000 prisoners. Many 
different industries are conducted 
by the prisoners, and in the jail 
salesroom specimens of their 
handicraft may be purchased, 
including excellent carvings and 
furniture. The construction of a 
Provincial Museum is soon to be 
undertaken on a convement and 
central site. . The Phayre Museum 
was close to the Bernard Library, 
but has been removed to make 
room for the new General Hospital, 
and housed in a room of the 
Secretariat offices pending the 
construction of a special building ; 


admission to it is obtained by 
special permission of the Com- 
missioner ol Pegu. 

(5) The Cantonments, Parks, 
Gardens, Zoo, and Lakes. — These 
ifford pretty rides and drives and 
An excellent service of taxi-cabs 
places the whole of them within 
easy reach of the traveller He 
should take one dnve in Canton- 
ments, say along Godwin Road, 
past the Parade Ground and Race- 
t ourse, then to the left past the 
Pegu Club, to the Promo Road 
then along Prome l^oad to Halpm 
Road (the " f^adies’ Mile ”), along 
Halpm Road to the Gymkhana, 
thence past Government House 
along Alon Road to the Great 
Pagoda, and thence through the 
Cantonment gardens and back by 
Voylc Road to the town. 

Another drive which should 
on no account be omitted starts 
from the railwav station, passing 
Northward through the Victoria 
Memorial Park, opened by King 
George V,, then Prince ol Wales 
on 13th January 1906. On the 
way are enclosures for wild 
beasts, which form a great 
attraction to the Burmese. 
Thence the drive circles round 
the Royal Lakes, the banks of 
which are planted with flowering 
shrubs. There is a favourite 
promenade with a bandstand on 
a spot of land jutting out from the 
N. The view of the Shwe Dagon 
Pagoda across the water is very 
striking, the effect being par- 
ticularly fine when the sun is 
setting behind that. The Boat 
Club (private) is just opposite 
on the S. shore. The drive con- 
tinues to the Cantonments or more 
directly back to the town ; but 
those who are prepared to go farther 
afield can obtain a very pretty 
drive by going along the Prome 
Road to the Victoria Lake, skirting 
the lake and returning by the 
Kokine Road. By this road 
(total distance about 15 m.) they 
will pass through miles of pine- 



ROUTE I. MANDALAY 


621 


apple gardens, among ^^hlch vari- 
ous picturesque and shady rides 
can be had. A v'ery in teres ting 
drive, only rendered possible oi 
lecent years by the advent of the 
taxi-cab, is out on the Prome 
lioad to the 13th mile, thence to 
the W. along the Mmgaladon 
Ivoad, past the very pretty Min 
galadon Golf-course and Club 
House to the Rangoon Insein Road 
at Insein, by which the traveliei 
returns to the city : total distance 
about 28 m. 

There are several public squares 
and gardens, and a picturesque 
park, Dalhousie Park, surrounds 
the Royal Lake. Band perform- 
ances are given at these places on 
every day of the week excepting 
Sunday. 

(6) Syriani. — The traveller who 
has an afternoon to spare may 
well pay a visit to S\nam. It 
can be reached from Rangoon by 
ferry. Synam vns formerly a 
place of some importance, and 
IS of special interest as being the 
site of the earliest European 
settlements of any importance 
in Burma. The town is said 
to have been estabhshed in 787 
A.D., but little is known of its 
history up to the i6th century, 
when it was presented by the 
Ivmg of Arakan to Philip de Brito, 
who, with his Portuguese, had 
assisted the King in the conquest 
of Pegu. In 1613 Synam was 
besieged and captured by the 
King of Ava, all the Portuguese 
being either slain or sent to Upper 
Burma, where a lew of their 
descendants exist to this day. 
From 1631 to 1677 the Dutch 
maintained a factory at Synam. 
The English also had a factory, 
which was re-estabhshed in 1698, 
and destroyed by the Burmese in 
1743. Nothing now remains of 
these once flourishing depots 
except the substantial rums of 
an old Church, some tombs, and 
the foundations of a few masonry 
houses. The Church was built by 


Monseigneur Nerini, the second 
vicar-apostolic of Ava and Pegu, 
in the early part of the i8th cen- 
tury. In 1756 the bishop was 
murdered by Alompra. From 
that year until 1760 the mission 
remained deserted, and was then 
removed to Rangoon. The ruined 
Church is now buried m the jungle 
about J m. from the landing-stage, 
and, being a “protected monu- 
ment " is looked after by Govern- 
ment. If the traveller is accom- 
panied by an interpreter, he will 
have no difficulty in finding some 
one in the \ illage to show him the 
way to the ruins. Six m. from 
Synam is the Kyaikkauk Pagoda 
standing on a hill, which affords a 
line view. This is a prominent 
landmark as one approaches Ran- 
goon from the sea. Twenty years 
ago, a mere village of about 1000 
inhabitants, Syriam was selected 
by the Burma Oil Company as the 
site of their great oil refineries, and 
IS now a flourishing town with a 
population of over 10,000 inhabi- 
tants, and at the present its archae- 
ological interest is rivalled by its 
industrial importance. 


ROUTE I. 

To Mandalay, Bhamo, and the first 
defile, returning to Rangoon vzu 
Prome. 

The arrangements for this tour 
will depend entirely upon the 
amount of time which the traveller 
is prepared to devote to it. If he 
has only a few days at his disposal 
he will not be able to do more 
than proceed to Mandalay by rail, 
spend two or three days there, 
and return by the same route to 



THE PALACE, MANDALAY. 



Rpinoduced, fuj hn'I peiviR.non of the .'^erretfii y nfSfat< fur lndit>. f 0>ii fhr AnnunJ Hrport 
for 100--3 of the Art hrrotogvxd Survey if India. 





o oi 


l-Zerawun Figiues of the royal aiieestorN ^\ert- kept here. 

) The King held his moruing Irvee it i^ an open passage between two rooms, in the 
t Wetitern of whioli, L), the king was seated with luu attendants. 

The Glass Palace. The Western half is on^ large room. The Water-least Throne 
^stands at the VTest side of the mum 
Nursery. 

Daily attendance room for Queens, 

King and Queen's spt-cial livmg-iourii. 

Kind of drawing-room where the couit met to witiies-, theatrical displays in the 
theatre on the south side The stage is ihav cleared away. 

Originally the Queen’s room. Tlu’oaw’s eldest child was born liere, but Supaya Lat 
never regularly inliabited it 
Tabindaing House. 

Seindon Huu.se, resjunjceot D<j\vager Queen. 

Northern Palace \ 

Western ,, | Houses made to infeiioi Queens in King Mindon’s time, 

r in Thirtaiv's to Princesses. 

Soutlierii ,, j 


The road running down the centre East and We^t was called the ISamOk Road, 
and led to a courtyaid called SaniGk, in the centre uf which stood the Lily Throne 
The houses on the North and South of this courtyard were inliabited by inferior 
Queens in King Mimlon’s time and by Princesses in King Thibaw’s 
Q- King’s private Tiea.'-iiry. 

g " Quarters ol personal Bod,\gnaitl. 

T. An evening sitting-room. 

U Privy Council Chambei. 

V. (Observatory Tower. Fa%’oiinte resort ot Supaya Lat ; here she watched the British 
truups enter Mamlalay. 

W New house built for, but never iiseil by, the white elephant. 

X Cut up into \anuus small rooms tor tea-making, kitchen, photography. 

Y. Byedaik, or Treasury Othce, where Atwm Wans, or Privy Coniicillors, sat. 

X House for Pwes The open space east of Z wa-j used for races and various sports on 
horseback. 

a Clock Tower, where gong and drum sounded the watches 

h. Also a high tower m which a tooth ot Gautama Buddha w^as enshrined* 

c King Mmdon’s Tomb 

d. Hluttaw, or Supreme Council Hall (demolished), and Lion Throne removed to 
Calcutta Museum. 

Richly decorated Monastery, on the site of which King Thibaw spent the period cf 
his priesthood. 

f- Golden ''pire over Great Audience* Hall 

g The S.mth Garden Palace, a kind of picnic house for Tlubavg In the front veranda 
he w.is taken prisoner by Cid. Sladeu ni Novemue*r IS" .. 

1. Lion Throne, under spue in Gieat Audience Hall. 

2 Goose Thiotie, in .Ancestral Hall 

3 Elepliant Throne, m the ByLilaik 

4. Bee Throne, iu the Gla.s.s Palaci 

5. Conch Tlirone, in the Morning Le\ee Hal). 

^ Deer Thione, m the South Hall. 

T. Peacock Throne, in the North Hall 
8. Lily Throne, in Ladie^’ Hall. 





626 


BURMA 


India 


the District but none of great 
archaeological interest. Shans 
With pack caravans, visit Myittha, 
about 12 m S. of Kyaukse, and 
considerable trade still comes 
through from the Shan States de- 
spite the construction of the rail- 
way. The tram now crosses a 
stream running to Ava, and, pass- 
ing through Amarapura, reaches 
Mandalay (386 m.) at about 3 
o’clock. 

The express tram leaving Ran- 
goon at II 30 reaches (47 m.) 
Pegu at i.iS, Toungoo at 1.31, 
and klandalay at 7.20 


386 m. Mandalay ^ station flat. 
21° 59' > iong. 96'^ 8' ; altitude 950 
ft., D.B.). Several days can be 
spent very pleasantly at Man- 
dalay. There is only one hotel, 
situated in 22nd Street, and it is 
not fit for European guests. Visi- 
tors can, however, always be ac- 
commodated m the D.B. or in 
Other Government buildings. The 
city and Cantonment together con- 
tain 138,299 inhabitants, mostlv 
Burmese : the city was from i860 
up till 1885 the capital of the Bur- 
mese kingdom and the residence of 
the King. Its growth has been 
more rapid even than that of 
Rangoon, but it was in great part 
due to temporary causes. The 
city proper was in Burmese times 
within the walled enclosure, which 
is now used as a Cantonment and 
railed Fori Dtifferi}i 

A traveller bent on studying 
the capital ^ should commence 
by ascending Mandalay Hill — an 
isolated mound rising abruptly 
near the X.E. corner of the fort, 
firom this point of vantage he can 
see spread out like a great map 
the town of 138,299 inhabitants. 


the fort with the Palace m the 
centre, the temples and monu- 
ments worthy of a royal city, and 
i the system of irrigation built bi- 
‘ King Mindon, with its great arti- 
ficial lake and numerous canals 
; At the summit of the hill was 
formerly a wooden temple con- 
; taining a huge standing figure 
I pointing with his finger at the 
i Palace beneath. This temple and 
! the figure were destroyed after 
I 1885 b}^ fire. The new temple 
I built lately has a covered way to 
; it with an incongruous roof of cor- 
' ruga ted iron. A new building ha^ 
just been erected on the Southern 
I spur of the lull to contain the 
• Buddha relics lately sent over from 
India, This will form a new 
attraction for all Buddhists to 
visit IMandalay. 

Fort Dufferin next claims atten- 
tion. This great square, built to 
guard the inner city and Palace, 
with sides m. long, is enclosed 
by walls of red brick 26 ft. lugh, 
machicolated at the top to serve 
1 the purpose of loopholes. They 
are backed by a mound of earth, 

, so that defenders can look over 
1 them. On each of the four sides 
i stand, at equal distances, thirteen 
j peculiar and elegant watch-towers 
I of Burman design, built of teak 
: and freely ornamented ivitli gold. 

I One on the N. side, enclosed and 
enlarged, forms the nucleus of 
Govenunent House, the residence 
of the Lieutenant-Governor when 
at Mandalay. Outside the walls, 

! and surrounding the fort, is a 
I broad Moat full of water, 75 yards 
' wide. It is crossed by five wooden 
bridges, one in the middle of each 
! side, and an extra one on the 
I W. face which was formerly re- 
1 served for funeral processions. It 
j abounds with fish, and at certain 


Mandalay, by Taw Sein Ko, Sud 

vntendent, .Atcbzeological Survey, Burn 
contains a scheme for three days’ sight-seei 
at M^dalayand Amarapura: Suberintt 
dent. Government Printing, Rangoon, ans 


seasons of the year large patches 
of the surface of the W'ater used to 
be covered with the broad circular 
leaves and beautiful pink and 
white flowers of the lotus plants 
which have their re,ots at the 










ROUTE I. 

bottom, but the lotus has lately 
been removed as it was supposed 
to shelter the malaria mosquito. 
On this moat in the King*s time 
were several state barges, gilt from 
stem to stern, some of them pro- 
pelled by as many a'l sixty rowers 

There are twelve gates through 
the fort wall, three on each side, 
equally spaced. In front of each 
gate stand a masonry curtain and 
a massive teak post bearing the 
name and sign of the gate, which 
latter is guarded by the stone 
image of a guardian nat placed 
in a brick shrine. The old Bur- 
mese custom of burying alive 
human victims at the gates of a 
new city was not, as is sometimes 
stated, followed here. By King 
Mmdon’s order jars of oil were 
buried instead, and images oi 
guardian spirits were set up in 
shrines. 

Exactly in the centre of the 
fort stands the ro3’'al Palace or 
Kandaw, brought here in the main 
from Amarapura. A plan show- 
ing the disposition ol the Palace 
buildings at the time of the 
annexation will be found in Mr 
Oertel's Notes on a Tonv lyi Unrma 
(Government Press, Rangoon, 
1S93) The plan given here is 
reproduced by permission irom 
the Archaeological Survey Report 
for 1902-3. The Palace w^as for- 
merly a square fortified enclosure, 
defended by an outer palisade ol 
teak posts 20 ft. high and an inner 
brick wall, with an open esplanade 
of about 60 ft. width betw^een 
them. This w^alled square w'as 
cut up into numerous courts sur- 
rounded by high walls, and in the 
very centre, to make it as secure 
as possible, was an inner enclosure 
containing the Palace. To the K 
and S. of the inner Palace enclosure 
are jtw^o walled-in gardens, con- 
taining royal pavilions, and laid , 
out with canals, artificial lakes, j 
and grottoes. The outer stockade, j 
except in a few’ places, and all j 
the brick wails have now’ been re- 1 
moved, as also many of the minor j 


MANDALAY 627 

structures ; the chief Palace build- 
' mgs are, however, still standing. 

Four strongly -guarded gates led 
I through the outer defences. The 
! large gates w’ere only opened for 
the King ; all other people had to 
squeeze through the red postern 
at the side, which obliged them 
to bow’ lowiy as they drew near 
the royal precincts. Entering the 
; Eastern gate, which is still stand- 
I ing, one crossed a wide enclosure, 

1 which contained a number of 
i subsidiary buildings — such as the 
; armoury, printing - press, mint, 

! quarters for servants and guard, 
the royal monastery, King Min- 
don's mausoleum, and the offices 
of a few of the highest officials. 
Beyond this was another spacious 
j court m front of the Palace, at the 
j Northern end of wKich races and 
, sports used to take place before 
j the King. In the centre of this 
court stands the great Hall of 
Audience,^ with the lion throne, 
projecting out boldly from the 
face of the Palace, with W’hich it 
is connected at the back. The 
private part of the Palace is 
I behind this, on an elevated oblong 
I platform in an inner enclosure, 

; which was entered through tw’o 
j jealously-guarded gates on each 
I side of the Hall of Audience. At 
, the Western end of the Palace 
[ platform is a private Audience 
Hall, with the hly throne, where 
I ladies were received, and between 
the two Halls of Audience are 
numerous wooden pavilions, for- 
merly occupied by the various 
Queens and Princesses. Over the 
lion throne rises the high seven- 
I storeyed gilded spire or shwepya- 
'■ that, the external emblem of 
royalty. It has been taken 
down and restored at great 
expense. 

In the S. garden there was once 
a small pavilion, on the veranda of 
w’hich King Thibaw surrendered 
himself to General Sir H. Prender- 

i The hall is 250 ft. across from wing to 
wing, but only 45 ft. defp. .S. W. of it at the 
back was the stable ui the White Elephant 



628 


BURMA 


India 


gast and Colonel Sladen on 29th j 
November 1885. At the S.E, 
corner of the Palace platform is 
the lofty wooden tower from which 
the King used to view the city, i 
The richly-carved Pongyi Kyaung ' 
to the E. of the Palace, where 
King Thibaw passed the period of 
priesthood, is worthy of notice 
Hard by is King Mindon’s mauso- 
leum, a brick and plaster struc- 
ture, consisting of a square cham- 
ber surmounted by a seven- 
storeyed spire. Mindon IVIin was 
buried here in 1878. The Palace 
buildings were for a time used for 
barracks and offices, but they 
were found unhealthy, and the 
troops were removed to the new 
barracks outside. The great Hall | 
of Audience was used by the I 
military as a Church. The Lily 
Throne Hall and surrounding 
buildings for some years afforded 
accommodation to the Upper 1 
Burma Club ; but this was dis- 1 
continued in the viceroyalty of ! 
Lord Curzon, who feared the risk j 
from fire to this absolutely unique i 
example of the old Burmese Palace ! 
built according to the traditional , 
pattern. The necessity of protec- 
tion is all the greater as experience 
in Ava shows that Burmese build- 
ings perish in fifty to sixty years 
when at all neglected. 

Pagodas and Monasteries. — The 
whole neighbourhood of Man- 
dalay, Amarapura, and Ava is | 
rich with splendid fanes. Some 1 
of the finest, including the Atu- 
ma-shi, or “ incomparable monas- 
tery, have been burnt down wnthin 
the past few years ; but the 

730 pagodas ” S.E, of the 
Mandalay Hill remain, and should 
be visited, as also the Queen’s 
Golden Monastery in A. Road and 
the Arakan Pagoda. 

Facing the E. gate of the Palace i 
is the Taik Taw Monastery of the 
Buddhist Archbishop, decorated 
with wonderful dragons. N. of it, 
at the S.E. corner of Mandalay 


Hill, is the Kuthodaw or 730 
Pagodas — a remarkable work. 
King Thibaw ’s father, anxious 
that the holy books of Buddhism 
should be recorded in an enduring 
form, called together the most 
learned of the priests to transcribe 
the purest version of the scrip- 
tures ; this he caused to be 
engraved on 729 large stones of 
the same pattern. These stones 
were set up in an enclosed square, 
and over each was erected a small 
domed building to preserve it 
irom the weather. The enclosure 
is about ^ m. square, surrounded 
by a high wall with ornamental 
gates ; in the centre stands a 
temple of the usual form S. of 
this stood the Atu-ma-shi. W. of 
this on the road to Mandalay Hill 
IS the Kyauk Taw Gyi Pagoda, 
built over a huge monolithic image 
of Buddha. 

The Glass Monastery, so called 
from the profusion of inlaid glass 
work with which the interior and 
exterior are decorated, was close 
by. The Glass Monastery has 
been burnt down, but close to the 
remains of the Atu-ma-shi Kyaung, 
which was situated near the 
Kuthodaw Pagoda, there is the 
Shwenandaw Kyaung, which is 
worth seeing. It is so called 
because the materials for the 
building were obtained by dis- 
manthng the apartment occupied 
by King Mindon jVIin just before 
his death. The Queen’s Golden 
Monastery, built by Supaya Eat, 
in A Road across the railway 
to Mandalay shore, is the hand- 
somest building of the kind in 
Burma. It is built of teak in the 
ordinary form, but is profusely 
decorated with elaborate carving, 
and is heavily gilded within and 
without. The traveller should ask 
permission from one of the yellow- 
robed fraternity, of whom he will 
be sure to find some in the court- 
yard, to inspect the interior of 
this monastery. On the road to 
it the gilded Eindawya Pagoda 



ROUTE I. MANDALAY 


629 

is pabsed ; and not far from this ( precincts of the pagoda is a large 
was the picturesque structure 1 tank tenanted by sacred turtle, 
known as the Serpent Pagoda, 1 who wax huge on the rice and 
which was burnt down To the ' cakes thrown to them by multi- 
S.E. of the city is Maha Mum. tudes of pilgrims. Probably not 
or “ Arakan Pagoda," rendered i even at the Shwe Dagon Pagoda 
especially sacred by the great is more enthusiastic devotion 
sitting#image of Gautama there j shown than here. The relics oi 
preserved, and on this account ' Buddha discovered at Peshawar 


regarded by Upper Burmant* 
as not inferior in sanctity tf> 
the Shwe Dagon itself. The huge 
brass image, 12 ft. in height, was 
brought over the hills from Akyab 
in 1 784. The image was originally 
set up, so says Shway Yoe, quoting 
the ancient legend, during the 
lifetime of the Great Master. The 
utmost skill and most persistent 
energy had failed in fitting the 
parts together, till the Buddha, 
perceiving from afar what was 
going on, and ever full of pity, 
came himself to the spot, and 
embracing the image seven times, 
so joined together the fragments 
that the most sceptical eye cannot 
detect the points of junction. So 
like was the image, and so sublime 
the efiulgence which shone around 
during the manifestation, that the 
reverently-gazing crowd could not 
determine which was the model 
and which was the ^Master. The 
resemblance has no doubt faded 
away with the wickedness of 
later times, for, unlike most Bur- 
mese images, the features of thi^ 
image are somewhat lacking in the 
customary refinement and dignit\' 
of pose. The shnne in which it 
stands is one of the most splendid 
in the country The image itself 1=^ 
covered by a great seven-roofed 
pyathat with goodly pillars, the 
ceiling gorgeous with mosaics 
Long colonnades, supported on 252 
massive pillars, all richly gilt and 
carved with frescoed roof and 
sides, lead up to it. All day long 
circles of constantly-renewed wor- 
shippers chant aloud the praises oi 
the Buddha, and the air is thick 
with the fume of candles and the 
odours from thousands of smoul- 
dering incense-sticks. Within the 


I are now in the Treasure-house of 
this pagoda. It has been decided 
I that the golden casket containing 
1 the relics should be enshrined in a 
j temple which has been erected on 
I the S E. spur of the Mandalav 
i Hill. 

t The great Zegyo bazar lies near 
, the centre of the city. Grain and 
i vegetable vendors, silversmiths, 

I toy, umbrella, and lacquer makers, 

' silk merchants, and numerous 
I other traders occupy streets of 
' stalls. Burmese ladies in the 
usual tight - fitting petticoat of 
1 gay silk and white jacket, attended 
I by a maid, may be seen making 
I their daily household purchases ; 

! groups of girls, with flowers in 
i their hair and huge cigars in their 
: mouths, price the silks of which 
I all Burmans are so fond. Many 
' strangers to the city, come on 
' business or pleasure, wander about 
deeply interested in the display 
I on the stalls. Nowhere else can 
! be seen gathered together so many 
i widely - separated tribes — Chins 
! from the western mountains, 

I Shans from the E., Kachins from 
the N., Chinese from the little- 
, known inland borders, Sikhs, 
Gurkhas, Madrassis, and other 
Indians, and the scene is as lively 
as it is uncommon. The bazar 
deserves several visits, and is, 

' indeed, the best place m Burma 
for purchasing silks. Curious old 
specimens of silver work may also 
sometimes be picked up there X. 
of the bazar is the Diamond 
Jubilee Clock Tower, and the 
principal shops of Mandalay are 
m Street N^o. 22 on this side. 

After exploring Mandalay pro- 



BURMA 


India 


630 


per, short excursions may be made ] 
to Yankiiitaung, to Amarapura, to ! 
Sagaing and Ava, and to Mingun. | 

The hills called Yanlrintamig are 
about 5 m. due E. from Mandalay, 
and may be vij^ited by motor. 
There are a number of pagodas 
and monasteries, and a deep 
fissure in the ground containing 
an image of Gautama. 

Amarapura, the Immortal city, 
founded m 1783, the capital till 
i860, with an interval of 1822- 
1^37. lies 6^ m. S. of Mandalay, 
and can be reached by rail or by 
motor. It is fully described in 
Yule's Mission to Ava and Mr 
Scott O^Connox's Mandalay . Only 
ruins now remain, but they are well 
worth a visit. Near the tower of 
the Palace there was a monster 
gun. which has now been removed 
to the Palace at Alandalav ; the 
principal sights are the Shinbm- 
kugyi and Patodawgyi pagodas, 
within the precincts of which there 
is now a collection of Burmese 
inscriptions collected from vanous 
parts of the country by King 
Bodawpa^'a about a century ago, 
and a colossal image of Buddha on 
the shore of the S. lake.^ The 
station-master will provide a local 
guide. Near the station is a fine 
Chinese Temple. There also may 
be seen the new Government silk- 
weaving works, where “ Mandalay 
silks," of colours suitable for Euro- 
pean purchase, as well as for Bur- 
man, may now be bought 

Sagaing and Ava (7 m. S.E. of 
Amarapura, the capital of Burma 
from 1S22 to 1S37) can also be 
visited by rail or river from 
Mandalay. Little trace now re- 
mains of the city itself, but on 
both sides of the river are hundreds 
of pagodas of every variety and 
degree of decoration. I’here are 
the Nagayon paya, the whole 
building wrought' into the form 

cijntains many details of 


of a dragon ; the huge round- 
domed Kaunghmudaix', built in 
1636, and with " glistening white 
pinnacles or flashing gold spires 
on the Sagaing Hills, and on the 
Amarapura side, great massive 
temples frowning over the river 
with all the stem solidiA^* of a 
knightly hold, each with its legend 
— ^some tale of bloodshed ox piety, 
some event in Burmese lustory, 
or birth story of the Buddha.’’ 

Sagaing is now the headquarters 
of the Commissioner of the Division 
and of the Deputy-Commissioner 
of the Sagaing District The 
traveller who wishes to explore 
the pagodas of Sagaing and Ava 
should endeavour to obtain an 
introduction to one of these 
officers. There is a D B. at 
Sagaing. 

The last of the excursions near 
Mandalay deserving special men- 
tion is that to Mingun, about 
9 m. above Mandalay. The up 
steamers of the Irrawaddy Flotilla 
Company call there, but the down 
steamers do not, unless by special 
arrangement. Mingun is pic- 
turesquely situated, and is inter- 
esting for its great unfinished 
pagoda and for its huge bell. The 
groundwork of the great mis- 
shapen Mingun Pagoda covers a 
square of 450 ft., and its height 
is 155 ft., about one- third of the 
(devation intended , but Bodaw- 
paya, who attempted to break the 
Buddhist record of putting up the 
most gigantic monument, did not 
complete it, because a prophecy ran 
that its completion would portend 
disaster to his dynasty. In 1838 
an earthquake rent the gigantic 
cube, the largest mass of brickwork 
j 1 n the world, with fantastic fissures 
I from top to bottom, and cast down 
j great masses of masonry, tons m 
I weight. Overlooking the river, in 
! front of the Eastern face of the 
J temple, stood two gigantic leo- 
; gryphs in brick. These figures 
[ were originally 95 ft. high, and 
1 each of the white marble eyeballs 
1 intended for the monsters mea- 



ROUTE I. MANDALAY 


sured 13 ft. in circumference. The 
leogryphs are now in ruins. N of 
the temple, on a low circular ter- 
race, stands the largest bell in 
Burma — the largest in the world, 
probably, after the one at Moscow. 
Its original supports were de- 
stroyed by the earthquake of 1S38, 
and it rested on the ground till 1 
1896, when it was again raised, and I 
slung on an iron beam resting on . 
two iron pillars, so that it swings 1 
free. An ornamental shed has I 
been erected over it. The dimen- i 
sions of the bell are as follows : — | 

External diameter at the lip . lo ft* 3 in. j 
Internal diameter at the lip . lo ft I 

Internal diameter above the lip 4 ft. 3 in [ 

Exterior height . . . i r ft 6 in j 

Interior height . . . . 12 ft. | 

Interior diameter at top . . 8 ft. 6 in. j 

j 

The thickness of the metal varies ! 
from 6 in. to 12 in , and the 1 
actual weight is, roughly, 87 tons 
There are other curious pagodas 
in the neighbourhood. 

The new railway line from Man- 
dalay to Lashio (180 m.) makes 
it possible to visit Maymyo and 
the Gokteik Viaduct. Maymyo is 
now also connected with IMandaiay 
by a motor road, only a 2-hr3. | 
journey and most people travel ; 
this way. Maymyo (42 m.) (D.B.), 1 
which is 3300 ft. above the sea, is j 
the hill station of Burma. It lies ■ 
in a trough between low, wooded 
hills, pretty, but withou^ wide ' 
views. There are a large English 
society, many excellent houses and 
gardens, a good club with polo- 
ground, a golf-course and excellent - 
rides in the jungle. The hot 
weather temperature is fully 20^ , 
below that at Mandalay. At Gok- ; 
teik {23 m.) is a wonderful steel 
trestle bridge, 320 ft. high and 2260 
ft. long, built on a natural bridge oi 
rock 500 ft. high, witli a great ■ 
cavern under it. The bridge was 
prepared in America, and was pul ; 
up on the spot by American | 
workmen. There is a Rest-house , 
belonging to the railway near the 


b3i 

station with beautiful views, and 
the manager of the refreshment- 
room at Maymyo railway station 
arranges, at a day’s notice, to 
send up provisions and a cook. 

, The scenery on the way and at 
! Gokteik is hne. It is worth while 
descending the 900 ft. by a good 
path to the cavern through which 
the river flows under the two 
bridges, i e., the so-called natural 
bridge and the viaduct built on it. 

The traveller who has time to 
proceed farther N. may either 
take one of the Irrawaddy Flotilla 
steamers, which leave Mandalay 
every Sunday and Wednesday for 
( 3 hamo, or he may take the tram. 
In the latter case he will be able 
to reach ]>Iyitk3dna, 724 m. from 
Rangoon, passing through Sagaing 
(393 Shwebo (446 m.), Naba 
junction (392 m ), for Katha 
(14 m.), and Mogaung {688 m.), 
the probable point of junction of 
the projected railway from Assam 
to Burma. The railway journey 
trom IMandaiay to Myitkynna by 
rail now takes just over 24 hours, 
meals being obtainable at Shwebo 
afid Xabi. Xo steamers plv be- 
tween Myitkyina and Bhamo, ex- 
cept Government launches, which 
do not run on fixed dates, and 
are not available for ordinary 
travellers. 

About 2 hrs. before reaching 
Myitkyina by rail, Mogaung is 
passed. This is the startmg-pomt 
of the bridle-iiatli to the jade 
mines, 80 m. to the X.W. 

.Myitkyina is on the right bank 
of the Irrawaddy, which in the 
dry months here runs clear as 
crystal and contains many sport- 
ing lisli. i'o the E. liigh mountam 
ranges divide the District from 
China, the nearest point on the 
frontier being about 30 m. from 
Myitkyina as the crow flies. A 
fairly good bridle track connects 
Waihgmaw on the left bank of the 
Irrawaddy with Tengvueh 

diany types of hill peoples may 
be seen in the bazar at Alvitkyma. 
The bulk of the population consists 



BURMA 


India 


632 


of Kachias, whose homes are in 
the hills ; the plains are as yet 
sparsely populated, but are gradu- 
ally attracting settlers. The ch- 
mate at Myitkyina from the middle 
of November till the end of Feb- 
ruary is delightful, and English 
flowers, fruit, and vegetables 
thrive. The P.W.D. Inspection 
Bungalow is available for the use of 
travellers when not required b\ 
officials, but visitors must make 
their own arrangements for food 
The town itself presents no special 
features of interest 

The steamer route to Bhamo 
and back (2^ days up and 1 days 
down) is recommended- The 
steamers are well fitted, and the 
scenery is fine. Passing Singu 
on the nght and Shemmaga and 
Kyaukmyaung on the left, the 
steamer passes through the third 
defile to Thabeikkyin and Kyan- 
hnyat. Tigyaing, on the left 
bank, is prettily situated on a 
hill. Katha is next passed on 
the left- It is the headquarters 
of the District of that name, and 
a daily steamer to and from 
Bhamo (70 m.) may be joined “br 
left there by the railway. The 
pagodas of Shwegu next come 
into sight on the right, and on 
Royal Island in the river, and the 
steamer then passes through the 
second defile to Bhamo. 

The defiles of the river as Bhamo 
is approached are very fine. The 
wide stream narrows to 1000 yds., 
and flows for 30 m. through 
a cham of hills covered with 
splendid foliage. The successive 
reaches of the river resemble 
lakes, being apparently shut in 
all round. Beyond the first hills 
IS a plain, and then another defile 
through a second chain of hills, 
which is even finer than the last. 
The river narrows to 200 or 300 
yds., and rushes through the gap 
with great velocity. This defile 
extends for 5 m., and in one place 
a rock rises straight out of the 
water to a height of nearly 400 ft. 


There is not much to be seen at 
Bhamo (population 9762 — Bur- 
mans, Shans, Chinamen, Kachins, 
Indians, and every sort of inter- 
mixture), but the place is ol 
interest as being the highest 
I station on the Irraw'addy held by 
British troops and the starting- 
point of the main trade route into 
China, the nearest point on the 
Chinese frontier being only some 
30 m. distant. The Theinda\vgyi 
Pagoda resembles those of Siam 
in shape, and a Chinese Joss- 
house will be interesting to those 
who have not seen the farther 
East. ^Antiquarians will also find 
interest in the fact that just 
j outside Bhamo is the site of the 
I old city of Sabenago, of which 
bits of the old w’alls still remain. 
Sabenago is probably the place 
referred to in Fra Mauro^s map 
as the place where “ goods are 
transferred from river to river 
and so pass on to Cathay.*' Several 
trade routes -from Yunnan con- 
verge on Bhamo In 1915—16 the 
value of the trade, passing through 
■ Bhamo and registered, amounted 
to 153 lakhs — imports 96 lakhs, 
exports 57 lakhs. The Bhamo 
District is largely inhabited by 
Kachins, wild hillmen, who in 
Burmese times were practically 
independent, and were a constant 
source of terror to the caravans 
I passing between Bhamo and 
China. The Kachins have long 
been reduced to order. 

Proposals have often been 
mooted for the construction of a 
t railway 124 m. long from Bhamo 
! to Tengyiieh or Momein. There 
j are at present no signs that the 
1 Government of India are willing 
j to undertake the burden of so 
e‘xpensive, though 'politically im- 
1 portant, a project. 

I In order to visit the Ruby Mines 
\ it would be necessary to break the 
I journey between Mandalay and 
i Bhamo at Thabeikkyin. in the 
i Ruby Mines District. A good road 
I connects Thabeikkyin with Mogok 
! (60 m }, and the journey is well 



ROUTE I 

worth undertaking There is a i 
daily motor service running ! 
through in 7 hrs. The road j 
passes through fine mountain 1 
scenery, and the journey can be . 
broken at D.Bs. at intervals of ' 
12 m. Fifty m. from Thabeikkym i 
the road crosses a pass 5000 ft. ' 
high and descends into the Mogok 
Valley, in which the mines are ! 
situated, which forms a cup in the | 
hills about 10 m long by 2 m. i 
broad. The mines are worked 
parti V by the Ruby ]\Iines Com- 
pany, with the assistance of the 
most modern methods and 
machinery, and partly by a large 
number of native licensees, who 
work hand mines by primitive 
methods. In the ' Company’s 
mines the system followed is one 
of open workings. Some thirty 
Europeans and Anglo-Indians, and 
a very large number of Burmese , 
and Shan-Chinese are employed | 
on the works in the various pro- j 
cesses of mining, washing, and j 
sorting. The Company’s mines | 
are lighted and their machinery | 
run by electricity. By arrange- I 
ment with the Indian Government 
the Company secured a lease 
for 28 years in payment of a j 
minimum rent of Rs. 200, 000, and . 
a royalty of 30 per cent, of the I 
net profits. The annual out-turn j 
of rubies varies from 266,000 to | 
325,000 carats. The Company ! 
has recently extended its workings ' 
to Luda and Katlie 7 m. from | 
Mogok on the road from Thabeik- . 
kyin. Besides rubies, sapphires I 
topazes, amethysts and several ; 
other stones, both uncut and j 
polished, are to be had. : 

About 50 m. above Thabeikkyin i 
Tagaung is reached on the bank 1 
of the Irrawaddy, one of the oldest I 
and most important capitals of , 
Burma, sometimes spoken of^ as j 
old Pagan. As Tagaung ceased | 
to have any importance some hun- j 
dreds of years ago, there are no i 
ruins to be found, though the j 
mounds in the marshes near it | 
will probably in the future yield 


bham< ' 633 

important results to the anti- 
quarian. 

Within easy access from Mogok, 
Thabeikk5fin, or Tagaung (D.B. at 
f'ach, with caretakers and food) 
there is good big-game shooting — 
leopards, tigers, elephants, saing, 
bison, and samhhav ; but the 
country is difficult and, during the 
rains, malarious. 

Having returned to Mandalay, 
the traveller should proceed by 
Flotilla steamer to Prome (express 
steamer twice a -week — three days), 
stopping en route at Nyaungu for 
Pagan, and at Yenangyaung for a 
visit to the oil-wells. After pass- 
ing Sagaing, the headquarters of 
the Sagaing Division, the steamer 
calls at Myingyan and Pakokku, 
both large towns and headquarters 
of British districts. The former 
is the terminus of the branch 
railway from Thazi junction, and 
IS an important trading centre, 
especially in cotton. The latter 
IS che base for the Chindwin River 
and the Chin Hills. Both are 
thriving and growing towns-# 

Nyaungu is situatdS about 
120 m. below Mandalay, on the 
Eastern bank of the river, and is 
interesting both as being the 
principal place for the manufac- 
ture of the celebrated Burmese 
lacquer work,^ and as being the 
nearest halting - place to Pagan, 
the capital of Burma from the 
2nd to the 13th century. There 
IS a small Government Circuit 
House at Nyaungu, and a large 
one at Pagan, near the principal 
pagodas. Permission to occupy 
these should be obtained from the 
Deputy-Commissioner at Mying- 
van. Messing is arranged for at 
the Pagan Circuit House, which 
IS 5 m. from the steamer landing- 
place at Nyaungu, and can be 
reached by bullock-cart or country" 

1 A fiiU of the process of manu- 

! icture wiU he found in chapter 27 of The 
in. h' S V ay Voe 



^34 


BURMA 


India 


boat. The traveller who wishes 
to make anything like a detailed 
examination of the extensive and 
very interesting remains in the 
immediate neighbourhood should 
arrange to remain at least two 
days in each. A pretty full 
description of the pagodas at 
Pagan will be found in Yule’s 
Mission to Ava, in Bird’s Wander- 
ings in Btiyyna, in Scott O’Connor’s 
Mandalay and other Cities of 
Burma, and in the publications 
of the Burma Archaeological De- 
partment. A very brief account 
(taken chiefly from Yule) of some 
of the principal monuments is 
all that can be given here. 


The Pagan ruins ^ extend over 
a space about 20 m. in length along 
the river, and averaging about 
5 m. in breadth. The brick ram- 
part and fragments of an ancient 
gateway, showing almost obliter- 
ated traces of a highly architec- 
tural character, are the only re- 
mains which are not of a religious 
description. It is said that in 
the days of the glories of Pagan 
there were nearly 13.000 pagodas 
and monasteries. The remains of 
oyer 5000 can still be traced. All 
kinds and forms are to be found 
among them ; the bell - shaped 
pyramid of brickwork in all its 
varieties ; the same raised over a 
square or octagonal cell containing 
an image of Buddha ; the bluff 
knob-like dome of the Cevlon 
dagobas ; the fantastic B up ava, 
or Pumpkin Pagoda, and many 
variations on these types. But 
the predominant form is that of 
the cruciform, vaulted temple. 
One hundred and thirty -six of 
these pagodas are under the cus- 
tody of Government daymans and 
the more important— N , Kaukka- 
than ; K , Gawnag<')n ; S , Kathaba ; 
W., Gautama — are kept in 
repair by the Public Works 


i A museum of remains discovered at P 
rtf established in the prec 

of the Ananda i^agoda. 


Department. The three principal 
temples are the Ananda, the 
Thatbyinnyu, and the Gawdaw- 
palin, all close together near the 
S. side of the city and nearly 5 
m distant from Xyaungu. The 
Ananda, as will be seen from the 
annexed plan, is a square of nearly 
200 ft. on each side, with project- 
ing portions on each face, so that 
it measures 280 ft. across each 
way. It is seven storeys in 
height ; six of these are square 
and flat, each diminishing in 
extent, so as to give the whole a 
pyramidal form ; the seventh, 
which is, or simulates, the cell of 
the temple, takes the form of a 
Hindu or Jain temple, the whole 
in this instance rising to the height 
of 183 ft. Internally the building 
is extremely solid, being inter- 
sected only by two narrow con- 
centric corridors ; but in rear 
of each projecting transept is a 
niche, artificially lighted from 
above, in which stands a statue 
of Buddha more than 30 ft. m 
height. These four great statues 
represent the four Buddhas who 
have appeared in the present 
world period — viz. : E., Kauka- 
than : W., Kathaba ; N., Gau- 

tama ; and S., Ganugun. They 
are all richly gilt. The Ananda 
was built in the iith century, in 
the reign of Kyanzittha The 
name is perhaps derived from 
Ananda, the favourite pupil of 
Buddha, or more probably from 
nanda, meaning “ admirable,” 
the prefixed “ A ” being only an 
intrusion (see Fergusson’s Ind 
Arch., 2, 360). 

Next in importance is the 
Thatbyinnyu (the Omniscient), 
erected about the year 1100 by 
the grandson of Kyanzittha, and 
third is the Gawdawpalin (Throne 
of the Ancestral H?i 11 ) built in 1200. 
These tavo temples are of very 
similar form, but the Thatbyinnyu 
is considerably larger. The height 
of the Thatbyinnyu is 201 ft , that 
of the Gawdawpalin 180 ft. They 



ROUTE I. 


PAGAN 


dliier from the Ananda in having j 
each only one porch instead ol ! 
four, and consequently only one ; 
great statue in its cell instead of ! 
four standing back to back. A ; 
plan of the Thatb3dnnyu is given j 
below. I 

Another important temple I 
within the city walls is known as j 
the Maha Bodhi, and was erected [ 
about 1200 by King Nandaung- j 
mya. It is different in style from 1 


b35 

a huge reclining image of the 
Buddha ; the Nagayon, in which 
the “ Nagas guarding the figure 
indicate the influence of snake 
worship on the Buddhism of the 
period ; the Xanpaya, where the 
captive Talaing King Manuha 
was in Xawrata’s reign allowed 
to hold a subordinate court, and 
which contains representations of 
Brahma with the triple head ; 
the Mingalazedi, noted for its 



Plan of the Ananda Temple (from Yule). Scale loo ft, to i in. 


the other temples. The basement 
is a quadrangular block of no 
great height, supporting a tall 
spire, strongly resembling the 
original temple of Buddh Gaya 
(p. 51). Both base and spire 
are covered with niches, bearing 
seated Gautamas and interspersed 
with ornamental panels and 
mouldings. 

Among other temples the more 
interesting are a monastery m the 
Ananda containing frescoes ; the 
Manuha Pagoda, which contains 


glazed tiles depicting scenes^n the 
previous existence of Gautama. 
For further details a guide to Pagan, 
which has been prepared by 
the Archaeological Department, 
should be consulted. 'JTie ex- 
cavations round the Pet leik 
paya have brought to light a 
series, of Buddhist terra - cotta 
reliefs. There is a local museum 
of these and other remains at 
the Ananda. Between Pagan and 
Xyaungu, on the road which 
follows the river, is the fine Shwe- 


BURMA 


India 


636 

zi-gon Pagoda, near which many 
workers in lacquer reside : the 
surroundings are extremely pic- 
turesque. m. N. of Nyaungu 
by a bad road is the Kyaukku 
Temple. This is built in three 
terraces , the hall in the centre 
of it contains a statue of Buddha, 
which, hke the decoration of the 
temple, is of Indian type. Pagan 
fell m 1284 A.D. The Emperor of 
China sent a vast army to avenge 


view of the sacred city obtained 
I from the steamer is particularly 
! fine. 

I Continuing his course down 
stream past Salemyo, the traveller 
I will shortly reach Yenangyaung, 

I on the E. bank, and here a^ain, 

1 if time allows and the necessary 
arrangements have been made, a 
halt is desirable. The oil-wells 
i are situated about 3 m. from the 
I river-bank, and well deserve a 



the murder of an ambassador. 
The Burmese King pulled down 
1000 flagodas, 10,000 smaller ones, 
and 4000 square temples to build 
additional fortifications from Palm 
on the X. to Ywatha on the S., 
but a prophecy found under one 
of the desecrated shrines robbed 
him of his courage, and he fled to 
Dala on the S., and Pagan was 
sacked by Kubla Khan’s warriors, 
and never recovered it^ pristine 
splendour and magnificence. 

The Irrawaddy just below Pagan 
widens out like a gigantic lake to 
over 2 m. in breadth, and the 


, visit. Oil ' winning by primitive 
I Burmese methods is still practised, 

I but in recent years several Com- 
i panies, the largest being the 
[ Burma Oil Company, have ac- 
i quired sites on the field, and by 
' adopting the American system 
; of wells, drilled to a depth of 
‘ over 3150 ft., have obtained an 
enormously increased production. 
The output of oil in 1915 was 
198,809,315 gallons, and the 
royalty collected by Government 
' in tne same year, Rs. 2, 485, 100. 

! Air i^aseoe's report on the oil-fields 
' of Burma (The Geological Survey of 



ROUTE I. PAGAN — PROME 


India, Vol. XL., Part i , published 
by Kegan Paul, Trench, Triibner 
& Co.) contains full details. There 
is a P.W.D. Bungalow at Thit- 
tabwe near the steamer landing- 
place, and a District Bungalow at 
Venangyaung. 

The principal places of call 
below Yenangyaung are Magwe 
and Minbu, both headquarters of 
British districts, and the former 
headquarters of the Division of 
that name. At Minbu there are 
interesting mud volcanoes, situ- 
ated about 2 m. from the river - 
bank. 

At Minhla there was an old 
Burmese fort, the scene of a 
brief fight in the last Burmese 
war. Soon after crossing 
IQ° 29^ Y parallel of latitude {the | 
old frontier formerly indicated ! 
by masonry pillars and inscrip- , 
tions, specimens of which may be t 
seen in the office of the Deputy- | 
Commissioner, Thayetmyo) the ; 
cotton -mills of Allanmyo may be | 
seen on the left, recently erected 1 
to cope with a growing industr;^' | 
On the right, almost opposite, j 
another mill will be noticed, and , 
a little S. of it the old British ; 
fort, now part of the large camp | 
for Turkish prisoners of war which ; 
was established in the Thayetmyo | 
Cantonment in 1915. ■ ; 

f 

Thayetmyo (D B.), like Toungoo, j 
IS an old frontier station. The : 
troops now consist of one com- ; 
pany of British Infantry and 
some garrison companies of Indian 
troops guarding the camp. I 

There is an excellent 9-hole golf- i 
course in Cantonments, which is 1 
one of the two courses mentioned 
in Nisbet’s Golf Year-Book, (\isi- 
tors as. 8 per diem ; Sunday play 
without caddies. Apply to Hon- 
orary Secretary.) | 

As the Prome-Thayetmyo feriy’ i 
steamer is always in Thayetmyo 
throughout Sundays, passengers 
by the dowm mail steamer arriving 


637 

in Thayetmyo about noon on that 
I day can tranship to the ferry 
I steamer, which leaves for Prome 
I at I p.M. on Monday, thus getting 
I twenty-four hours in perhaps the 
’ pretbest station in Burma. The 
, park-like land S. of the fort is a 
! portion of the old Cantonments. 

I There is also accommodation at 
the D.B., with fair cooking, and 
conveyances can be procured at 
reasonable rates from the local 
job-master 

j From Thayetm^'o the scenery is 
I pleasing, and Preme (161 m. by 
i railway from Rangoon) is reached 
I in 4 hrs. The traveller has 
I here the option of leaving the 
! steamer and taking the rail to 
I Rangoon (9 hrs ), arriving in 
^ time for early breakfast next 
morning. 

From Prome to Rangoon the 
river journey takes three days. 


Prome town (population 27,375), 
the headquarters of the district 
of the same name, is situated 
on the E. bank of the Irrawaddy 
River (161 m. by railwav from 
Rangoon). The town is well 
laid out with streets, the old 
town having been entirely de- 
stroved by fire in 1862. The 
Strand Road extends from one end 
of the town to the other, and from 
it well laid -out streets run E., in- 
tersected at right angles by others. 
Close to the centre of the town 
are the Court Houses, the Anglican 
Church, the School, the Hospital, 
the Jail, the iNIarket, the Jubilee 
Clock Tower, and the Post and 
Telegraph Offices. The Municipal 
Waterw’orks, opened in 1885, 
supply the town with w^ater from 
the river Most of the residences 
of officials are on the hill just to 
the S. of the town, which is acces- 
sible by a good metalled road, and 
affords a fine view of the town and 
neighbourhood. 

It is a very ancient city, and 
is mentioned as the capital of a 
great Kingdom before the Christian 



BURMA 


India 


63S 

era. The original capital was Tha- 
yekhettaya, 5 m. or 6 m. inland, but 
tliih was destroyed by the Talaings 
in the 8th century, and after its 
destruction the esdsting town of 
Prome was founded. It was one 
of the chief centres round which 
the early people of the country 
struggled for the mastery of 
Burma. In the war of 1852 it 
was captured and occupied by the 
British, out of whose hands it 
has not passed since. The prin- 
cipal industries are the manufac- 
ture of silk cloth, gilt boxes, and 
lacquer-work. The chief objects 
of archaeological interest are two 
pagodas — Shwesandaw in Prome 
town and Shwenattaung 16 m . 
from it. 


The Shwesandaw Pagoda is on 

a hill I m. from the left bank of 
the Irrawaddy, and covers an area 
of 11,025 sq. ft., rising from a 
nearly square platform to a height 
of 180 ft. It is surrounded by 
83 small gilded temples. These 
unite at their bases and form a 
wall round the pagoda, leaving a 
narrow passage between it and 
them. There are four approaches 
to the platform on which the 
pagoda stands. The N. and W 
are covered in with ornamented 
roofs, supported on massive teak 
posts, some partly gilded and 
partly painted vermilion. The 
platform on the top of the hill is 
being repaved with slabs of 
Italian marble, and round its 
outer edge are carved wooden 
houses, facing inwards, inter- 
spersed with small pagodas, in 
which are figures of Gautama 
standing, sitting, or Iving. Be- 
tween these and the main pagoda 
are many Tagundaing posts witii 
streamers, and the largest collection 
of bells in Burma, some of them of 
^eat antiquity. The pagoda has 
two gigantic lions of conventional 
form at the N, entrance. In 1753 
A.D. this pagoda was regilt b^' 
King Tharra- 
waddy had it repaired and regilt. 


and surmounted with a new ti, or 
crown of iron, gilt and studded 
with jewels; in 1842 the carved 
roofs over the N. and W. ap- 
proaches were put up by the 
Governor. In 1858 the pagoda 
was again put in repair at a cost of 
Rs.76,800, raised by public sub- 
scription, and subsequently it was 
regilt at a cost of Ks. 25,000. In 
1916, two new tis, with the usual 
costlv ornamentations valued at 
about a lakh of rupees, were sub- 
stituted for the old Burmese and 
Talaing tis, the frameworks of 
which are now to be seen in a build- 
ing on the platform. Through the 
efforts of a local rehgious associa- 
tion the pagoda is now lit by elec- 
tricity. The annual festival, when 
the pagoda is visited by thousands 
of pious Buddhists, is held in 
November. 

The Shwenattaung Pagoda. — 

This pagoda, 16 m. S. of Prome, 
vichl}^ gilt and glittering in the 
sun, stands out conspicuously on 
the first hill of a low range, over- 
hanging the Shwenattaung plain, 
and has in a line behind it several 
other pagodas, all of which may 
be visited by the traveller, if not 
already tired with buildings of 
the kind. The Shwenattaung is 
said to have been built during the 
reign of the .founder of Prome by 
his Queen. It was repaired and 
raised by Thihathu, King of 
Prome, and again in the i6th 
century by Tabinshweti, King of 
Toungoo, who had conquered 
Prome. Its eight-day festival in 
March is attended by thousands. 
The pagoda can ordinarily be 
reached from Prome by motor. 
There is no accommodation for 
travellers at Shwenattaung and 
the vicinity. 

The mail train leaves Prome at 
9.30 o’clock at night, and reaches 
Rangoon at about 6 o’clock on 
the following morning. The Irra- 
waddy Flotilla Company provide 
a daily service from Prome to 
Thayetmyo and from Prome to 



ROUTK 2 RANGOOX TO MOI'I.MEIN 


^39 


Henzada, and a tri-weekly service 
from Prome to Rangoon and from 
Prome to Mandalay, stopping at 
the river-side stations. 

The only accommodation for 
travellers at Prome is a smal] 
travellers’ bungalow, at whicli 
meals can be obtained. 


ROUTE 2 . 

From RANGOON to MOULMEIN, with 
possible extension to Tavoy ana 
MerguL 

Moulmein (population 57,582), 
justly described in The Silken 
East (V. C. Scott O’Connor) 
as the most beautiful town in 
Burma, should on no account be 
missed. It is comfortably reached 
from Rangoon by railway to 
Martaban (ii hrs ), and thenct 
by ferry steamer hr.) hor 
the steamer service the B.I.S.N. 
Co.’s Agents, Bullock Bros., Ran- 
goon, or T. Cook & Sons, should 
be consulted. 

As a British settlement Moul- 
mein dates from the year 1827 
when it was selected by General 
Sir Archibald Campbell as the 
capital of the newly - acquired 
Tenasserim Province. It is the 
headquarters of the Tenasserim 
Division and of the Amherst 
District, ranks next to Rangoon 
for its trade in teak and rice, and, 
with its flourishing rubber planta- 
tions to the S., bids fair to be an 
important centre of the rubber 
industry. The District promises 
to be the centre of a tin and wol- 


I fram industry. A grass from 
wiuch oil is extracted is largely 
I grown in the neighbourhood of 
! rile town 

I The visitor entering the Salween 
I from the Gulf of Martaban finds 
I the banks covered with the most 
j varied of evergreen fohage, in 
marked contrast to the low-lving 
muddy flats that line the mouth 
of the Irrawaddy. 

Right and left, parallel with the 
river, are low ranges of hills dotted 
with pagodas, while to the N. and 
; N W. beyond the town the precipi- 
I tons mountain Zwegabin Daung, 

< known locally as the Duke of 
i York’s Xose, and the Zingyaik 
, range stand in bold relief against 
i the sky. Moulmein is 38 m. from 
j the sea, and takes the form of an 
I inverted “ L,” four -fifths of the 
I town, or the portion representing 
I the perpendicular, lying along the 
j left bank of the Salween, flanked 
, on the E. by a low, irregular, 
i pagoda - crowned ridge, and the 
j short horizontal line representing 
! the Daingwunkwin quarter on the 
I N. stretching along the left bank 
j of the Gyaing River to its junction 
i with the Salween. 

I The view from the Kyaikthan- 
I Ian Pagoda at the N. end of the 
I ridge is unsurpassed in all Burma, 

* and 1^5 thus described in The Silken 

: East ‘ — 

! 

, “ From the S.W. angle there 

1 is unfolded a picture of a wide 
I river making its last progress 
j in loops and curves to the sea. 

. hmthusiastic people say it is as 
j fine as the harbour of Sydney. 

I At some distance from the river 
: a long, low line of hills runs down 
I on the E., and another, the nucleus 
I of Bilugyun, runs along the W., 
a rampart for the retreating sun. 
The river enfolds in its course 
several large, low - lying islands, 
and at one point at Mupun it 
makes a beautiful curve, ending m 
a headland where rice and timber 
mills send their smoke into the 
air, and ships at the harvest 



BURMA 


TiHlia 


rqo 


season wait for their cargoes to | 
the distant world. ! 

“ Looking more directly to the | 
W., there is the river again in a ; 
straight bar of gold under the long j 
town of Moulmeui. More ships he j 
here, and they look to me as il they 
had dropped without explanation j 
from the great world outside into 
this landlocked anchorage under | 
the swooning palms. For as 1 look 
the conviction is borne in upon 
me of a drowsy land of extra- 
ordinary beauty, but not of a 
modern cit^^ and the ships that 
he here for a season seem to me to 
form no part of it. Looking a 
little more towards the N , my 
eyes are greeted by the Zmgyaik 
Hills, whose loftiest peak, 3000 ft 
in height, dominates the whole 
panorama. Between these lulls 
and Bilugyun the right branch of 
the Salween makes its way to the 
sea. In times gone by — m the 
days of the castle of Murrnulan, 
when Portugue'^e artillerymen 
manned the guns of Martaban, 
and hungry adventurers from the 
W. swept in their galleons up the 
gulf — ^and down even to more 
recent times, this was the main 
channel of the river.” 

And to complete the picture 
from the description of another 
writer : — 

“ E., at the foot of the ridge, 
is the large and regularly laid- 
out Daingwunkwin quarter on 
the edge of a rice plain, from 
which beyond the Attaran River 
rise isolated fantastically-shaped 
ridges of hmestone, in part bare, 
and elsewhere with jagged peaks 
partly concealed by stunted tree- 
growth, and in the extreme dis- 
tance the faint blue outline of the 
lofty forest-covered Dawna range 
on the Siamese frontier. 

” To the N. is the Zwegabin 
range of jagged limestone peaks. 
13 m. long, while to the S. rise 
the dark Taungwaing Hills, their 
sombre colour relieved by the 
glistening white pagodas with 
which they are dotted, 'while wind- 


ing through the plain E. and S.E. 
like silver bands are the Gyaing 
and Attaran. 

I “ This magnificent panorama 
I can only be seen in perfection up 
; to the middle of January : there- 
j after heat-haze partly obscures the 
I view to the X. and E.” 

The two pagodas worth visit 
ing are the Kyaikthanlan at the 
N. end of the ridge and the Uzina 
in the centre. 

The Kyaikthanlan, 152 ft. high 
and 37> ft. in circumference, was 
founded many centuries ago on 
the site of a former pagoda 
destroyed by the Siamese in one 
of their periodical invasions : 
hence the name in the iSIon lan- 
guage, still spoken in the neigh- 
bourhood of Moulmoin, Kymk 
Sem Lmn, the pagoda* which the 
Shans destroyed. Visitors should 
notice the big bell with quaint 
English inscription — ” This bell 
is made by Koonalenga. the priest, 
and weighs 600 viss. No bod\' 
design to destroy this Bell : 
Moulmem, March 30th, 1855 He 
who destroyed to this Bell, they 
must be in the great Heell, and 
unable to coming out.” On the 
platform of the Luzina Pagoda are 
some remarkably well-carved, life- 
size figures representing the four 
objects the sight of which deter- 
mined Gautama to become a 
hermit— a decrepit old man lean- 
ing on a staff, a man suffering from 
a loathsome disease, a putrid 
corpse, and a recluse in yellow 
garments, with features expressive 
of resignation and absence of 
worldly care. 

Moulmein is noted for ivory 
carving, and a visit should be paid 
to the shop of Maung Ni Hla, the 
principal craftsman in Nyaung- 
binzeik Road, Daingwunkwin. 

The jail saleroom occasionally 
has good specimens of w'ood- 
carving, and is w'orth a visit ; 
My Po Wet’s showroom of locally- 
carved furniture should be seen, 
while the Kaladan bazar is worth a 
prolonged visit, for all sorts of 



ROUTE 2. RANGOON TO MOCLMEIN 


641 


curios can be obtained by expert® in 
collecting. Chinese and Siamese 
silks are purchasable at reason- 
able prices. The Mumcipal Secre- 
tary mil furnish visitors with a list 
of the principal ivory carvers, 
silversmiths, etc. A visit should 
also be paid to one of the timber 
mills to see the elephants working 

The following excursions should 
not be omitted : — 

(i) By steamer (5 hours ; Irra- 
waddy Flotilla Company and 
Burma Steam Launch Company 
maintain daily service) to Pagat, 
thence 2 m. inland to the Kawgun 
caves. In one there is a subter- 
ranean lake, and a Burman canoe 
takes the traveller right through 
the heart of the hill, a weird 
passage of some 600 yds., in pitchy 
darkness. 

Another cave is thus descnbed 
in The Silken East: “Masses of 
rock running parallel to the cliff’s 
face make the outer wall of the 
first chamber. Ten thousand 
images of the Buddha he with- 
in the first sweep of the eye, 
from yellow -robed figures which 
line the footpath to terra - cotta 
plaques fixed high on the jutting 
face of the cliS ; from golden 
colossi twice the height of Goliath 
to miniature figures fit for a 
pen-wiper. A great stalagmite 
rising up from the floor to near 
the brow of the overhanging cliff 
is completely covered with small 
images of the Buddha enthroned, 
and its summit is crowned by a 
small pagoda.” If the traveller 
returning to Pagat will, before 
sunset, take his stand on the nver 
bank | m. N. of the village, he 
will see one of the most extra- 
ordinary sights in the world : 
precisely at sundown the bats issue 
in myriads from a narrow cleft in 
the clifi overhangmg the river 
and take their flight S. towards 
the sea. To quote once more 
from the same book : — 

“ Yet one more sensation remains 
to complete the bizarre suggestions 
of the day. For as I near the 


gateways of Pagat I am startled 
by the sound of a great flight of 
birds, a sound as of grey geese on 
the wing, but of such volume as 
can proceed only from a great 
host. These are the bats of the 
Pagat caves. 

' ‘ For more than twenty minutes 
they sweep out in a long swift line 
that grows tortuous as it recedes, 
and as far as I can see into the 
ruddy twilight the line extends. 
Swiftly as each creature in it is 
flying, it looks in the distance like 
a smoke spiral waiting for a wmd 
to blow it away. They go every 
evening, say my boatmen, to 
drink the salt water of the sea ; 
and they cross in their flight the 
crests of the Zingyaik Hills.” 

(2) From Pagat to Pa-an (8 m.) 
and on to Shwegun (35 m.) by the 
same daily service of steamers 
noted above. The scenery is fully 
equal to that on the upper defiles 
of the Irrawaddy. There are 
furnished Government bungalows 
at Pagat, Pa-an, and ^ Shwegun ; 
but the visitor must take his food, 
bedding, and servants, unless he 
omits Pagat and Pa-an and sleeps 
on board the steamer at Shwegun. 

(3) Moulmein to Kawhnat mon- 
asteries (8 m.). There is a service 
of steam launches several times 
a day to Kado, and thence it is a 
shady walk of J m. through Kado 
and Kawhnat villages to the mon- 
astery, where are to be seen per- 
haps the finest specimens of ihein 
architecture in the whole of Burma, 
as well as a magnificent collection 
of ivory carvings. A brief descrip- 
tive guide-book to these buildings 
has been prepared, and copies can 
be borrowed from the Deputy 
Commissioner of Amherst or the 
headman of Kado. 

(4) Moulmein to the Hpay6n 
(commonly called The Farm) 
caves — distance, 9 m. 

The best way of doing the trip 
IS to take a hackney carriage or 
motor-car to the Kyaungbinzeik 
ferry on the Attaran (4 m.), and 
thence by bullock-cart ; or, if a 



BURMA 


India 


642 

full day’s notice is given to Lamb’s < 
Liveiy^" Stables, arrangements can 1 
be made to send a hackney carriage 
to be in waiting on the right (E.) 
bank of the ferry. The caves are 
situated m isolated hills of lime- 
stone, which rise picturesquely and 
abruptly out of the surrounding 
alluvial plain. They were e\'i- 
dently excavated by the sea. 
The first consists of an entrance 
hall running parallel with the 
face of the rock, a long chamber 
running into the rock at the S. 
end, and a subsidiary entrance 
and hall at the N. end. Along 
these halls run brick plat- 
forms coveretl with images of 
Gautama and his worshippers. 
The second cave, which is best 
worth visiting, is m. to the S., 
and access is gained by a steep 
path for some 30 yds. to a small 
opening in the chfl lace. To 
properly explore the enormous 
cavernous recesses, with their 
stupendous stalactites and stalag- 
mites, it is necessary to come 
provided with a supply of blue 
light illuminant, which can be 
obtained at any of the numerous 
chemists in Aloulmein \'"isitors 
would also do "*vell to carry 
umbrellas, as bats swarm. 

(5) Moulmein to the jMoulmein 
Rubber Plantation Company’s 
estate at Kwanhla (38 m.) — 
Manager Major Bradley, to whom 
notice of a visit may be given by 
wire The journey can be made 
in 2 hrs. by motor hired on good 
notice from jMr Mitchell, Moulmein 
Ice Factory, Maingay Street. 

In the Kvranhla and the adja- 
cent Kyonkadat estate (Amherst 
Plantation Company) trees can be 
seen m all stages of growth up to 
13 years. The soil is declared by 
Straits experts to be equal to the 
best Straits. The Kwanhla estate 
is said by experts to be one of the 
best-managed estates in Burma. 
Thousands of acres of similar land 
await development in the neigh- 
bourhood 

(6) Moulmein-Kyain Seikgyi — 


a whole day by steam launch (daily 
service by the Irrawaddy Flotilla 
and Burma Steam Launch Com- 
panies). The trip can be con- 
tinued to Amherst, a most attrac- 
tive seaside resort (the Deputy 
Commissioner should be asked for 
accommodation m the bungalow). 

At Kyain Seikgyi and Nat- 
chaung there are furnished 
Government bungalows, but food, 
bedding, and servants must *be 
taken 

From Moulmein the traveller 
may, if he pleases, extend his 
journey to Tavoy (wolfram-raining) 
and Mergui (pearl-fisheries), to 
winch places the B.I.S.K. Com- 
pany ran a weekly steamer before 
the War. Unless, however, he is 
proceeding to the Straits, he will 
probably find that his journey will 
occupy more time than he can 
devote to it. Railways are pro- 
jected to Ye and Tavoy in one 
direction and to Myawaddy on 
the Siamese frontier m another. 

I Tavoy, the headquarters ot the 
District of that name, is a town 
of 25,074 inhabitants, on the 
Tavoy River, about 30 m. from 
its mouth. It is laid out in 
straight streets, and the houses 
are for the most part built of 
i timber. To the E. and W., ranges 
I of hills run nearly due N. and S., 

I and the surrounding land is under 
I rice cultivation. Tavoy contains 
I court-houses, a custom-house, a 
! Chinese hotel, and the usual 
1 public of&ccs, besides numerous 
! pagodas and monasteries of no 
I special interest. Its trade, except 
I in minerals, is of little import- 
ance, and is carried on chiefly 
with ports in Burma and the 
Straits Settlements. 

Valuable minerals — viz , wolf- 
ram and tm — have in late years 
been discovered (the former in 
large quantities), and prospecting 
operations are being earned on 
vigorously. Some S201 tons of 
I wolfram ore and 143 tons of tin 
i ore have been extracted between 



ROUTE 2. RANGOON TO MOULMEIN : MF.RGUI 


^43 


1913 and 1916, and it seem^s 
probable that the District will 
have an important future as a 
mining centre. Burma impor- 
tant contributions to the European 
War have consisted of wolfram 
from Tavoy for the speeding-up 01 
munitions, and of earth-oil from 
Vcnangyaung for supplying the 
(Irand Fleet m the North Sea with 
oil-luel. 

The trip from Tavoy to Mergui 
IS interesting, inasmuch as it 
passes through the Margui Archi- 
pelago — a large group of islands 
which, commencing in the N. 
with Tavoy island, stretches 
southwards beyond the limits oi 
British territory in Burma. They 
have been described as “ a cluster 
oi Islands and islets with bay-, 
and coves, he^id lands and high- 
lands, capes and promontories, 
high bluffs and low shores, rocks 
and sands, fountain streams and 
cascades, mountain, plain, and 
precipice, unsurpassed for their 
wild, fantastic, and picturesque 
beauty.’' They are but sparsely 
inhabited, and are the resort of a 
peculiar race, the Salons, who 
rarely leave them to visit the 
mainland. The principal pro- 
ducts are edible birds' nests and 
heches de mer. The islands are 
infested by snakes and wild 
animals. Mergui itself, the chiel 
town of the district of that name, 
stands on an island in the prin- 
cipal mouth of the Tenasserini 
River, which falls into the Bay 
of Bengal about 2 m- N. of the 
town. It has a population of 
14,976, consisting of many races 
It has acquired additional import- 
ance from the discovery of valu- 
able pearl - beds in its vicinit^c 
Aiming for tin and wolfram is 
carried on tlixoughout the district, 
while the rubber plantations are 
attracting considerable interest 
and capital. The traveller who 
can spare the time should inspect 
the pearl-divmg and the mining 
operations. The town itself con- 


tains iittie of special interest. The 
liarbour is formed by Pataw Island 
]ymg between the town and the 
sea. The D B. in Mergui town has 
accommodation for four travellers. 
There are no hotels 

A fortnightly steamer runs be- 
tween Mergui and Victoria Point, 
and a bi-wcekly launch between 
Paiaw and Tenasserin Travelling 
by country-post is practicable 
throughout the year. 

From Letpadan (84 m. from 
Prome, 77 m. from Rangoon) a 
branch line runs to Henzada 
ferr^' (32 m. distant) and (83 m. 
farther) to Bassein (Route 4). 
>) m. S. of Letpadan on the main 
line IS Tharrawaddy, which is the 
headquarters of the Tharrawaddy 
District (2851sq.m.; population 
433 . 3 - 0 ]- It lies between the 
range of hills known as the Pegu 
Yoma on the E,, the Irrawaddy 
River on the W., the Prome 
District on the N., and the In«ein 
District on the S. Its centre is 
traversed by 70 m of the Rangoon - 
Prome Railway. Also the Myit- 
maka River, farther Southward, 

I known as the Hlaing, or Rangoon 
! River, traverses the District, which 
j is mainly agricultural. It contains 
extensive forests, on its Eastern 
! side ; teak and otlier timber are 
1 extracted by Government agency. 

The history of the Tharrawaddy 
District presents no features of 
special interest. It was separated 
from the Henzada District in 
1878, until which year Henzada 
and Tharrawaddy had formed a 
single Distnct. At Myodwin, 8 m. 

, from Gyobmgauk railway station, 
there are the remains of a fort 
built three centuries ago by a 
Prince named Thauomingaung, or 
Thunmyoyin {i.e., lord of three 
towns), to whom at that time 
Paungdc, Tharrawaddy and 
Toungoo owed allegiance. The 
District formed part of the Talaing 
Kingdom of Pegu and became Bur- 
mese when Alaungpaya conquered 
Pegu in 1753 In the first half of 
the igth century it was part of a 



BURMA : AKVAB 


India 


644 


fief of the prince who, by deposing 
his brother from the Burmese 
throne, became King of Burma as 
the Tharrawaddy Min, or the 
Shwebo Min, and reigned from 
1837 to 1S46. The District has 
long held an unenviable reputation 
on account of the criminality of its 
inhabitants. The towns of Thonze, 
Letpadan and Gyobingauk are 
administered by Municipal Com- 
mittees, and Minhla, Zigon, and 
Nattalin by Town Committees. 
The District comprises two sub- 
divisions, with three townships in 
each. 

There are Inspection Bungalows 
at all township headquarters and 
principal' railway towns : but, 
where v^er he stays, the traveller 
must be prepared to make his own 
arrangements for food. 


ROUTE 3. 

RANGOON TO KYAUKPYU and 
AKYAB. 

The traveller who desires to see 
something of the Arakan Division, 
or who is proceeding from Ran^ 
goon to Calcutta, and has a week 
to spare, may proceed by B.I.S.N. 
Company's steamer (weekly) to 
Kyaiikp3ru and Akyah, calling (ex- 
cept in the monsoons) at the mouth 
of the beautiful Sandoway River. 

Kyaukpyu is the headquarters of 
the District of that name. It was 
^rmerly a British Cantonment, 
but the troops have been with- 
drawn, and it is now a place of 
httle interest or importance. It 


IS situated in the N. of Ramri 
1 Island, and the town lies close to 
; the seashore, upon a sandy plain, 

■ bounded on the S.W. by a low 
range of sandstone hills, which 
breaks the severity of the mon- 
soon. The whole tract is lined 
- with mangrove jungles, and the 
' place is very unhealthy. It is 
considered to be more feverish 
than before. The town contains 
the usual public buildings, but 
nothing of special interest. 

Akyah is a place of more import- 
ance, and is the headquarters of 
the Arakan Division and the third 
, seaport of Burma. iViginally a 
, .vfagh fishing- village, Akyab dates 
' its prosperity from the time when 
it was chosen as the chief station of 
the Arakan Province at the close 
of the First Burmese War (1826). 
It has now a population of 37,893- 
It contains the usual public build 
ings and several large rice-mills, 
A pleasant excursion may be made 
i to Myohaung, the ancient capital of 
I Arakan, 50 m. up the Kaladan and 
' Lemro Rivers, where the remains 
of the old town are still to be 
; seen. For a description of them 
i reference may be made to the 
‘ reports of the late Dr Forch- 
i hammer, which were issued by 
the Burma Government Press in 
! 1891. The ruins of the ancient 
I fort, with traces of the massive 
I city wall and the platform on 
[ which the old Palace stood and 
, the Andaw, Shitthauiig, and Duk- 
, hanthein pagodas, with their dark 
' passages, images, and inscriptions, 
and the Pi taka t Taik, or ancient 
, depository of the Buddhist scrip- 
I tures, are among the most inter- 
I esting sights of the place. 

; The antiquarian will thus find 
; that Myohaung is full of interest, 
i as also, if he has time to visit 
j it. the Mahamuni Pagoda, some 
, 2 2 i m . farther N . Arakan Flotilla 
I launches ply regularly to Kyauk- 
, taw, which is only 5 m. by a good 
j road from Mahamuni : from there 
' a good road, fit for bic3"cles, runs 



ROUTE 4. RANGOON TO BASSEIN 


645 


to IMyoilduug, \sitii smail D.Bs. 
at convenient points (no servants 
or supplies at them). From Myo- 
Iiaung launches ply to Ak3'ab at 
regular intervals. A trip may 
also be made by river steamer 
to Paletwa, the headquarters oi 
the Arakan hill tracts District, 
which IS inhabited b\^ Chaungthas, 
Shandus, Kwemis, Chins, Mros, 
and other strange hill tribes. 
There is a comfortable Circuit 
Bungalow capable of accommoda- 
ting two travellers and containing 
furniture, crockery, lamps, etc. 
Meals cannot be obtained ; and 
there are no hotels. 

Wild goat (such as goral and 
serow) and an occasional gaur and 
elephant can be shot on a plateau 
or hill named Kyaukpandaung 
4500 ft. high, situated about 26 
m. from Paletwa. Rhinoceros, the 
double-homed variety, and ele- 
phant are fairly numerous along 
the Ru and Lemro streams. The 
hills are steep and are covered 
i-rith bamboo jungle, sparsely inter- 
spersed with trees. Fair Mahsir 
hshmg IS also obtainable on the 
Demro. Wild pig, jungle fowl, 
pheasant and partridge abourui 
everywhere. 


ROUTE 4. 

From RANGOON to BASSEIN and 
hack. 

Bassein can now be reached by 
railway from Rangoon (see Route 
I, end), but the trip can be made 
with ease and comfort in one of 
the steamers of the Irrawadd\' 
Flotilla Company, which l ave foi 
Bas.sein three times a- week, and 
may be of interest to tliose who 


' wish to see something of the lower 
; reaches of the Irrawaddy, and of 
I the mode of hfe of the thriving 
I people of the delta. It may be 
i extended to Heuzada (steamer 
! twice a - week) and other river 
stations, according to the time 
which the traveller has at Ins 
disposal. All necessary informa- 
tion about times of starting, places 
of call, etc., will be readily obtain- 
able at the office of the Irrawaddy 
Flotilla Company on the Strand 
^ Road, Rangoon. There are no 
I hotels in Bassein, but travellers can 
I be accommodated in the Circuit 
, House 

- Henzada town has a large D.B. 

I for travellers, in addition to a Cir- 
i cuit House, and a P.W.D. Bunga- 
j low. Permission to occupy them 
must be obtained from the Deputy 
‘ Commissioner and the Executive 
I Engineer, Embankment Division, 

; Henzada, respectively. All are 
fully furnished The District is 
I also i\'ell equipped with bungalows, 

1 which would prove useful to hun- 
! ters of big game, which abounds 
I 15 m. to the W. of the Henzada to 
i Kyangin Railway. As shooting 
J grounds are almost all situated 
: within reserved forests, permission 
to shoot and a hcence must be 
obtained from the Deputy Con- 
, servator of Forests. There are no 
I antiquities worth seeing, and the 
‘ District roads are bad. There are 
j daily steamers to Prome and 
j trains t^vlce daily to Rangoon, 

I Henzada being tlie half-way house 
' on the rail between Rangoon and 
j Bassein 

; Bassein, the diief town of the 
i Bassein District, and headquarter.'> 
i of the Irrawaddy Division m 
I Lower Burma, is situated on both 
' banks of the Rgawun River, the 
I extreme Western mouth of tiic 
f Irrawaddy (population 37,081). 

, It is a place of call for ocean- 
i going steamers, being one of the 
' principal ports of Burma. There 
j is a dailv railway service to 
j Rangoon tici Henzada. 

I The tovn IS said to den\e its 



BURMA 


India 


646 

name from the word Pathi/' 
the Burmese term for Muham- 
madans, as there were so many 
of them. To this source legend j 
ascribes the building of the Shwe- | 
moktaw Pagoda, in the centre j 
of the town, said to be one of i 
the most ancient and venerable ! 
m Lower Burma. A Muhamma- 
dan Princess named < >n - ma- 
dan - di had, according to the 
legend, three lovers (presumably j 
Buddhists), and she told each of 
them to put up a pagoda One 
put up the Shwemoktaw, the 
second put up the Tagaung 1 
Pagoda, at the Southern edge ot 
Bassem town, and the third put I 
up the Thayaunggyaung Pagoda. I 
The word “ Bas-em ” corrupted j 
form of Kusim, the Cosmin of the ; 
Portuguese and other early Euro- ‘ 
])ean writers. j 

Bassem loomed large in the 
Second Burmese War oi 1S52, and ! 
lor many years there was a British , 
Fort there, which included the site 
occupied by the Shwemoktaw ; 
Pagoda , but all traces oi lorti- 1 
hcation disappeared long ago. i 
Besides the usual public buildings j 
and schools, missionary and lay, 
the Koman Catholics have a ; 
mission here, and the American ; 
Baptist Mission has three branches i 
— for the Burmese, for the Sgaii i 
Karens, and for the Pwo Karens, j 
There is also an Anglican Church j 
and a clergyman of the Additional ! 
Clergy Society. There are several 1 
rice-mills on either side of the | 
river, a d a large export trade . 
in nee is carried on, chiefly to 1 
Europe. 

The principal local industries | 
are umbrellas and pottery. The ; 
former are light sunshades, i 
coloured with pretty designs, | 
and famed throughout Burma, j 
The latter includes flower - pots | 
and ornamental article^. | 

The J.)istrict is especially noted 
for its lisherievS, the largest being i 
the beautiful Inye Lake, situated | 
in the Kyonpyaw subdivision It | 
IS formed in the shape ot a horse- j 


shoe, with a large island in the 
centie, about m. long and i m 
broad. Diamond Island, which is 
also included in the Distnct, is a 
i. harming little islet lying w^ell 
out at sea opposite the mouth of 
the Ngawun River, over 70 m 
from Bassem. It is in wirelesr, 
communication with Calcutta 
and Port Blair, and is the place 
of call iur tsteamers requiring 
pilots to come up the Ba^^cin 
Kiver. it is noted tor its large 
turtles, which lay thousands of 
eggs on the shore of the island 
These eggs are exported in enor- 
mous numbers to Rangoon and 
other parts of the Province. The 
Irrawaddy Flotilla Company s 
iateamers ply to all important 
villages in the District. 


ROUTE 5 

up the CHINDWIN to KINUAT. 

Physical Description. — ihe 
Upper Chindwm is the Korth- 
ernmost district of the Sa- 
gaing Divibion in Upper Burma. 
Though its headquarters (at pre- 
?ent at Kindat, but about to 
be removed to ^lawlaik, 10 ni. 
low'er down the Chindwm River 
anil on tlie opposite (W.) bank) lie 
nearly tw^o degrees S. of Myit- 
kyina, it is the only 1 hstrict in 
Burma whose administered terri- 
tory stretches N. of latitude 25° 
45'. Beyond that parallel it 
has no boundaries. The last 
administered village is Hmanbin, 
about 24 m. below the falls of 
the Chindwm, and under the 
conlro] of the Kanti Saw^bwa 
The ‘unadministered tracts 



ROUTE 5. UP THE CHINDWIN TO KINDAT 


O47 


Within the boundaries of the 
Province and the sphere of influ- 
ence (more or less) of the Deputy 
Commissioner may be enumerated 
as follows : — 

(1) The Taro Valley, to the N. 
of the falls. This lies along the 
Chindwin, and is separated at 
its N. end from the better- 
known and larger Hukong Valley 
(really a vast plain) by a range 
of hills through which the river 
flows in narrow defiles. The 
valley is held by petty Kachin 
Chiefs with numerous Naga sub- 
jects. 

(2) The tract between the upper 
part of the Kanti State and the j 
administrative boundary of the j 
Naga Hills (a District of Bengal | 
and Assam which hes some 70 
odd m \V. of Kanti itself). This 
is inhabited by wild Naga tribes, 
of which very little is known, and 
has never been explored — at 
least from the side of Burma. 

(3) S of the above the Saramati 

range and the country round its 
base, including the valley of the 
Nantaleik, This also is occupied 
by head - hunting Nagas, The ^ 
Nantaleik Valiev was partly ex- j 
plored by Mr Porter, Deputy j 
Commissioner in 1893; and in , 
lull Mr Street, Assistant Com- j 
missioner, led a column along the : 
same route, rounding the base 
of Saramati, and returning to 
the Cliindwin, where it crosses j 
latitude 26°. ‘ 

(4) The tributaries of ^ the ; 
Chindwdn to the E. and S of 
Kanti, towards the Kachin coun- | 
try to the N. of Myitkyina District, | 
contain a few small and scattered j 
Kachin and Naga villages, which j 
regard the Kanti Sawbwa more or , 
less as their over - lord, though | 
they pay no tribute to him. 1 

(3) S. of the Nantaleik Valley | 
up to 10,000 ft. is a mountainous ; 
region, sometimes called the Somra j 
Tract, of which a part close to 
the border of Manipur is thickly 
populated by a Naga tribe named | 
bv the Manipuris “ Tuu^^khuls, ' i 


and by tne Burmese “ Uzumbok,’’ 
or “ Crested Chins/* from their 
method of dressing their hair. 
Between them and the Chindwin 
the hills have of late years been 
occupied by Kukis (Chins) from 
Manipur, who have compelled the 
Tangkhuls to pay them tribute. 

Minerals , — Coal exists in large 
quantities, but this has been 
j found so far in locahties where it 
i would not at present pay to work 
! it. A portion of the carboniferous 
I tract between the Yu and Myittha 
Rivers was explored by Dr Neot- 
ling, who declared the coal to be 
of good quality, comparing favour- 
ably with the best Indian kinds. 
Dr Neotling has estimated that in 
this area alone, to which all the 
coal in the District is by no means 
confined, more than 100 million 
tons of workable coal could be 
obtained above the level of the 
Chindwin. Mineral oil occurs in 
several places, most plentifully 
within the coal - bearing tracts 
Gold-dust is found in the Chindwin 
and other streams which flow into 
it from the E., but appears to be 
most plentiful in the Uyu River 
and its tributaries — m fact, some 
of the inland villages in the 
^faingkaing township have had a 
gold currency from time immemo- 
rial. Rubies and sapphires have 
also been discovered on or near 
the Uyu. None of the above 
minerals, however, have as yet 
been systematically worked. Jade 
is found in the Nantaleik River 
near Taman tin, and on the 
Namsam, which forms the boun- 
dary between the Upper Chindwm 
and ^Myitkyina Districts in the 
extreme N.E No stone, however, 
has been quarried in the mines on 
the Nantaleik since the annexa- 
tion Pottery clay is fairly com- 
mon, but little use is made of it. 
Salt springs are found at Yebawmi 
on the Uyu, and boiling is carried 
on there to a small extent. Strong 
indications that petroleum is 
located in the area to the E ol 



BURMA 


India 


(34S 


Kindat some in ui^tant in an 
that Centre, have led to the exploit- 
ing of this area bv the Indo-Burm 
Petroleum Companv, who ha\c 
sunk many wlIP and are actively 
engaged in prosecuting their -earcii 
for the miner. il oil Indications 
also of the presence of petroleum 
in the lull tiacts on the K ot Kva- 
bin tov. n,-,hip in the !Mmgin sub- 
division h.'ive led to the area beine 
licensed to another ('onpMnv. 

Communications. — The mam 
highwav of the I hstrict is 
the Chmdwin Kiver, which runs 
through it for some 430 m . and 
\arie,s m width below* Honialin 
irom a furlong to a mile or more 
Ihe maximum rise and fall at 
stations where a record is kept is 
shown below*. Ihe ordinary rise 
IS a few' feet less : — 

Kindat f,j (t i in (: / .51 
Horncilin, \j ft, 

Kalewn .I'fr 1 in ird i 

I f*aiher \ ear-^. 


I Ldlied from the anvil-shaped rock 
I near mid-stream at its lower end : 

I the current supplies the hammer 
! The channel up to Homalin i- 
I buoyed and cleared of sna^s 
yearly by the Assistant Ki\er 
I Conserv'ator, with three Govern- 
, mont launches. The falls have 
bemi approached by launch, but 
navigation in the defile below 
‘ them IS <ii[ficult, if not dangerous 
t*\cept in favourable circum- 
j stances. 

I 

! Other Rivers — Xavigation on 
1 the Pyu Ls uncertain and difficult, 
j but launclics can go some miit's 
( [leyond the border of the District, 
I 135 m from its mouth at the 
j height of the rams 
I Gangaw, 169 m, up the Myittlia, 

I can also be reached when the 
! river i.s m lluod The Vu River 
is impassable for launches and 
dangerous for boats during the 
monsoon. 


iJU'ticultieh ot ndvifration bf.?in 
m January or February. an<l are 
not over tili iluy The river lia.s 
to be buoyed afresh cacti year, 

and three Government lauriclu^s 
are constantly employed on this 
dut\ and in tiie work of removin*^ 
snags from Homalin dow*nwards 
betw-een the end of October and 
the early part of June Tlie 
chaiineLs varv incesbaiulv, neres- 
^‘.Rating frequent removal ot th^ 
oiioys. and m the dry season 
"'tearners are constantly runmn'^ 
aground Difficulties ' do not 
nccessarity increase Xorthieards • 
they may be greater N. of Kmdat 

h"f ‘t another; 

but on the whole the tendency 
s for the channel to grow shallower 
up stream 

numerous whirlpools 

tT w ^ are the 

below Kalewa, a 
-Masein. when* , 
the RI.M steamer Ragan was 1 

i another m the 1 

ejghbourhood of Heinsun, below* * 
Kanti— Anvil Whirlpool,- .so * 


Roads . — The only roads main- 
tained by tlie Public Works 
Department for use throughout 
the year arc from Sitthaung (a 
hamlet on the Chindwm) to Tamil 
ml; from Kalewa to Kale- 
myo (27J m.), and from Pyintha, 
the port of Kalemvo on the 
M \ ittha. through Kalcmyo to- 
wards Fort White in the Chm 
Halls (oj m. within the District). 
The Sitthaung-Tamu Road is the 
mad route into Manipur. It i*^ 
crossed by streams, w'hich are 
impassable w*]ien in flood. None of 
these roads can be used by carts. 

The Public Works Department 
also maintain fair-weather roads 
from Homalin to Maingkaing 
m ), with a branch to Thetke- 
daung (4 m.) ; Kaungngo (on the 
above road 4 m Horn Maingkaing) 
to Paungbyin (62 J m.) , Paung- 
byin to Kindat (65 m.) ; P3’'intha 
towards Falam (19J m within the 
I>istrict), With a brunch from 
Natchaimg to My ittha at Indm. 
The nominal roads from Homalin 
to Tamanthi (62 m.) and fr . 



KOUT'. 5. L'P THE 

Leiksaw, on the Paungb3nn- 
Kaungngo Road, to Naungpuaung, 
near the ^laingkaing - Homalin 
Koad (20 m ), arc not at present 
maintained. 

Sfeayner Services . — The Irra- 
waddy Flotilla Company runs a 
service of steamers as far N. as 
Homalin. In the rains a steamer 
from Paivokku leaves Monywa for 
Kindat on Friday. Kindat for 
Homalin on Tuesday, and Kindat 
for Monywa on Friday m each 
week. In the dry season it 
remains at Kindat during Tuesdays 
and part of Wednesday, and then 
^turns to Monywa, the Kindat- 
Honialin run being served by a 
small steamer, without first-class 
accommodation. which leaves 
fOndat every Wednesday and gets 
pack there on the Monday follow- 
ing. All these steamers have a 
bazar on board. Owing to Wa^' 
requirements the steamer service j 
has been dislocated and the Irra- 
waddy Flotilla Company run one , 
steamer a week only. At present 1 
^is steamer leaves Monywa on j 
Friday morning, arriving at Kin- 1 
^at on Sunday, and leaves for 
Monywa on Tuesday morning in ; 
each week. What the arrange- | 
ments will be in the rams it is not I 
possible to say. At present the 1 
Company runs no steamer N. ol j 
Kindat, and communication with I 
Homalin and other riverine sta- | 
bons between Kindat and Homahn | 
IS maintained bv two small Gov- ^ 


CHINDWIN TO KINDAT 649 

ernmeiit launches, one of which 
only has accommodation for Euro- 
pean passengers 

Accommodation . — There are no 
D.Bs. m the District and no 
hotels. Kindat has a Circuit 
House and an Inspection Bungalow 
. of the Public Works Department. 

[ There are Inspection Bungalows 
I also at Homalin, at Sitthaung, 

! Pyinbon, Kyaukzedi, and Tamu! 

I on the Sitthaung-Tamu Road ; at 
I Kalewa. Natk>dgon, and Pyintha ; 

I and at Mingin. Paungbyin and 
j ail township headquarters oh the 
[ river have a Circuit Room in the 
I court-house. 

i Pagodas.^WiQ principal pagoda 
j IS the Xan-u-shwe-bdntha, near the 
Post Office. Kindat. It is said to 
have been erected by Alaungpaya 
! ^i753"6o) after the conquest of 
: Manipur. 

On the other side of the river, 
picturesquely situated among the 
hills, is the Paungdaw-u Pagoda, 
said to be the work of his son 
Sinbyuym (1763-75), who also 
marched against Manipur. 

bceyiery — The scenery up the 
Chmdwin River is very remarkable, 
and is enhanced during the open 
season by the picturesque costumes 
of the various tribesmen who visit 
the plains in search of work and 
trade. Large numbers \dsitthe river- 
ine villages during the open season 
and their \^arious tribal costumes 
attract immediate attention. 



CEYLON 


“The traveller who can choose his own time for visiting Ceylon 
and make sure of fine weather in Colombo, as well as for travelling 
in the interior, should choose February to May inclusive, when 
Nuwara Eliya also is climatically quite delightful, while often enjoy- 
able in August, September, December, and January.” — Fergusson. 

The scenery of Ceylon is magnificent, and its climate attracts an 
increasing number of visitors. It is \er\ easy to reach Ceylon by 
steamer from an European port to Colombo. X’isitors, not only from 
the East generally, but also from England, spend months in Nuwara 
Eliya, where amongst many othei attractions there is an 1 8-bole 
golf-course, which is said to be the best m the East.” 

The area of the Island is 25,332 sq. in., and the total population 
(including coolies, but exxluding the military and shipping), as 
enumerated at the last census of loth March 1911, vvas 4,106,350, 
and consisted of 7625 European?, 26,857 Burghers, 2,714,616 
Sinhalese, 1,059,354 Tamils (including coolies), 266,434 Moors, 
13,089 Malays, and 17,540 others. 

The exports from Ceylon during the calendar year 1916 were : — 
Tea, 199,000,000 lb. (green), 4,000,000 lb. ; coffee (plantation), 30 
cvvts. ; cardamoms, 3900 cwts. ; cinnamon (quills), 19,859 cwts. ; 
chips, 24,899 cwts. , plumbago, 668,216 cwts. ; cocoa, 73,245 cwts. ; 
cocoa-nut oil, 323,017 cwts. The total quantity of Ceylon rubber 
exported during the same period was 54,509,267 lbs., valued at 
Rs. 103,51 1,925, as compared with 48,803,816 lbs. in the corresponding 
period, 1915- 

Tho value - omitting specie and the value of coal for the use of 
steamers) of the exports during 1916 was Rs. 297, 505,905 ; that of 
the imports Rs.21 1,500,753. The public debt amounts to ^7,001,000 : 
it has been incurred for the construction of harbour works, railways, 
irrigation projects, water-works, drainage and other public works. 
The old kings constructed irrigation works by which a great part of 
Ceylon was made cultivable. The revenue is in round figures 
sixty-six millions of rupees. The shipping of Colombo amounts to 
6,200,000 tons, and the Harbour dues to Rs. 1,680,000. 


The Currecey of the Island is on 
a decimal basis, and the rupee is 
divided, not into annas as in India, 
but into cents. The currency 
consists of copper (r cent and i 
cent pieces), nickel (5 cent piece), 
silver (rupee, 50 cent, 25 cent, and 
10 cent pieces), Ceylon Govern- 
ment currency notes of Rs.iooo, 
Rs.ioo, Rs 50, Rs.io, and Rs.5. 
The sovereign is now legal tender, 
£i-~Rs. 15 The rupee is there- 
fore equal to is. 4d., from which 
rate it varies only fractionally. 


I according to the exchange opera- 
; tions of the Banks. 

! 

I History. — In the accounts of 

; the ruins and some of the buildings 
; in Ce>'ion, name.? of the early kings 
I and historical events so often 
occur that a list ^ of the former and 
some mention of the latter may be 
useful. 

j The Mahawaiisa (— Mahavamsa) 

IS the chief national Chronicle, 
1 f 

1 Appendix A, after R.)iUe kj, 

page 093. 




Lcmdjjn Jolni Murray 




HISTORY BUDDHISM IN CEYLON 




written in Pali in the 5th century 
A D. by jMahanama, a priest of the 
royal line. This has been trans- 
lated and utilised by Tumour (of 
the Ceylon Civil Service, 1837), 
Wickremasmghe and Wijesinha 
( = Vijisinhe) . The Dipavamsa, an 
older Chronicle, is the history oi 
the Island. The Suluwansa is the 
Chronicle of a race of inferior 
power. The dates may be ac- 
cepted as provisional, liable to cor- 
rection as more inscriptions are 
deciphered. 

Wijaya (543 or 4S3 b.c.), is said 
to have come over from India on a 
raiding expedition and established 
himsell in Ceylon. Though the 
Mahawansa describes a visit of 
tiautama Buddha to Cc>loii, there 
IS no historical evidence for it. 
During the reign of I^ewanampia 
Tissa (307-267 b"c.), jMahinda, son 
of Asoka, King (272-231 b.c.I of 
Alagadha in India, was sent over 
to introduce Buddhism into Ceylon 
The Tamils ( = damilos m the 
Mahawansa), the Cholyans and 
Pandyans of S. India, constantly 
raided the island. Elala vas a 
Cholyan king (205-161 b.c.) , his 
tomb is at Anuradhapura. An- 
other Tamil invasion was in 104 
B.c. ; another in the middle of the 
Oth centurv. Sena il crossed to 
India to help a prince oi Pandy 
The Indians looted Anuradhapura 
and carried Mahinda V. (1001 ad.) 
captive. Wijaya Bahu (1063 
A D ) recovered Polonnariiwa fioin 
the Tamils. This was the seat oi 
Parakrama Bahu I . the king 
(1164 or 1153 AD.) tor 33 vear:3 
Idle Portuguese and other huro- 
] leans appeared on the scene from 
the i6th century, and trom 1502 
the native kings ruled from 
Kandy. “ Ceylon has been con- 
tinuously. but not entirely, ruled 
by European races since I 5 ^ 7 > 
when the Portuguese settled on 
the W. and S. coasts. Tlic 
Dutch dispossessed the Portu- 
guese in 1656, but gave way ui 
turn to the British, who have held 
the Maritime Provinces since 179b, 


I and the whole Island, including 
the interior and Kandyan King- 
j dom, which neither the Portuguese 
nor the Dutch ever occupied, 
1 since 1815.” — White. 

' Capitals — iiiL capital ot Ceylon 
has changed trom time to time, 
and various dates have been as- 
signed to the moves. Earlier than 
' Anuradhapura, the capital was 
I Magama (Tissamaharama), in the 
; extreme S.E. of the island. Anur- 
adliapura, founded about 500 or 
437 B c., became the settled capital 
from about 267 b c. to 729 a.d. ; 
according to other statements, 
from 300 B.c. to the middle of the 
gth century. Within the above 
period Sigiriya was the capital lor 
1 8 years from 477 a.d., during the 
reign oi Kasyapa I Polonnaruwa, 
as a capital, has been dated from 
78 1 to 1 2 88 A.D. ; also, variously 
' to 1013 A.D , and, with breaks, up 
to 1314 A.D, Yapahuwa was the 
! capital, for lebb than 20 years in the 
' 13th century, c. 1277. The capital 
was at Kandy, from 1592 to 179S. 

Buddliisiti in Ceylon. — The 

' census has shown the Buddhists 
to be more numerous in Ceylon 
than the followers of all other re- 
ligions. The whole subject ol 
Lhidrlhi-.m in Ceylon (belonging to 
'vhat is called the SouPiern School) 
lias been exhaustively treated m 
Bishop Copleston ’s.work Buddhism, 
Primitive and Present, in Magadha 
and Ceylon, second edition 190S, 
iroiii which a few facts have, with 
permission, been taken. 

When Mahinda, said to be a son 
of Asoka, King of Magadha, c 272- 
-31 B.C., the most powerful patron 
ot Buddhism, introduced that 
religion into Ceylon about 230 b.c., 
he met the reigning king Tissa at 
the place now known as Mihintale 
(Mahindatale). He brought with 
him pn memory, for none of the 
books were yet wTitten) the col- 
lection of Buddhist “ Canonical 
Books,” known by the name of the 



CEYLON 


652 


Three Pitak^'s, and tiie Commen- 
taries upon them all in Pali. He 
translated them into Sinhalese (a 
language which was closely allied 
to Pali), and the 3^ are believed to 
have been preserved in Ceylon by 
oral tradition, till they Avere com- 
mitted to writing about 80 b c. 
(at Aluwihara, a spot on the 
road between Kandy and Anurad- 
hapura, which is well Avorth a AUbit 
It is extremely' picturesque) . From 
Mahinda's time onAvards, Pudd- 
liism raa^' be said to have been tin, 
national rehgion. and Avas ofiicialK 
patronised ; shrines Avere built, 
wiharas constructed as dwelhngs 
for the monks, and man^’ in- 
scriptions are still to be seen m 
which such donations are recorded. 
A v'ery fine specimen oi such an 
inscription, on the living rock, in 
Asoka characters, is to be seen 
close to the high road from Kurun- 
egala to Puttalam, about 18 m 
from the latter. It is in one line, 
OA^er 100 ft long. The frequent 
inA'asions, hoAvcA’^er, of Tamils from 
Southern India, and the usurpa- 
tion of the throne by Tamil dynas- 
ties, repeatedly' led to the expulsion 
oi the monks and the destruction 
of their buildings. About 400 a.d. 
Buddhaghosha, the chief com- 
mentator, is said to have come 
from Magadha to inquire int< > 
these Commentaries. He trans- 
lated into Pali Avhat he found and 


composed more. His Avorks havt 
left their impress on the Ceyloi 
school of Buddhism, and ha\'e beer 
considered as absolute authontioi 
on the interpretation of the sacrec 
text. During the succeeding cen 
tunes the rehgion underweni 
many vicissitudes ; but the vie 
tones of King Parakrama Bahu I, 
“.P4-II97 or 1153-1186, “estab- 
iisued him in undisputed power 
which he used for the reformatior 
and promotion of Buddhism ant 
for the erection of innumerabU 
buildings for its service.” Thu 
period oi pruspentv Avas followec 
again by troublous times, anc 
Buddhism had little vitaiiH' ivher 


the British occupied Ceylon in 
1796 : it became “ more and more 
the religion of the less civilised and 
less prosperous.” In the period 
1875-1900 there was a remarkable 
revival, due mainly to external 
influence, and this movement has 
still considerable force. 

Names of Places. — The names of 
places in Ceylon have a formidable 
appearance, and a bewildering 
sound, for visitors ; but a shght 
acquaintance with the language 
removes much of their terrors. 
Many of them end in -ptira, or in 
the Tamil districts -puram, Avhich 
means ” toAvn ” (Sanskrit, pura), 
or in -nuwara, “ city ” (Sanskrit, 
nagara) ; many in (Sanskrit, 

grama) “ village,” ; others in -gala 
(Sanskrit, giri), ” rock ” or “ hill ; ” 
kanda is a “ mountain.” Others, 
again, are formed with -lava, 
Sanskrit, tar a) “ crossing ” or 
” ford ; ” iota (Sanskrit, tfrtha), 
” landing-place ” or ” port.” lo 
these -turei corresponds in Tamil 
Districts. Others are named after 
the artificial lakes, or ” tanks,” 
which are such an interesting 
feature of Ceylon scenery, and 
Avhich are called in Sinhalese tale 
(Pall, taldka), or wewa (Sanskrit, 
vdpi), and in Tamil kulam ; while 
smaller ponds give the termination 
-Vila, (Tamil, -i'l/ei). Other common 
endings are - demy a, ” field,” 

- pitiya* “ ground,” - waita, 
“garden.” The earlier part of the 
name is very frequently the name 
of a tree ; just as m England we 
have AshdoAvn and Beech Hill. The 
Avord drama, a ” pleasure-garden 
or ” park,” explains Tissarama, 

” King Tissa’s Park ” and Thup- 
arama, the park of the oldest 
” stupa ” or ” dagoba ” in the 
Island. The visitor may thus re- 
cognise in Nuwara Eliya the 
plain ” in the territory of “ the 
city ” (Kandy) : in Anuradhapura 
the “ City ” of the nobleman 
Anuradha ; Kurunegala is the 
elephant ” rock ” ; Hambantota, 
the ” port ” of the Malay boats, 



ADMINISTRATION TRAVELLING 


called “ hambans '' or sampans/’ 
Even Kahatagasdigiliwewa be- 
comes intelligible as the lake ” 
ol the kahata-tree branch, and 
Urugasmanhandiya as the " i unc- 
tion of roads by the uru-tree/’ 

Administration. — ‘ ‘ Ceylon be- 
longs to the class of what are 
known as Crown Colonies. ... It 
is administered direct from the 
Crown by the Secretary of State 
for the Colonies, with whom, at 
the Colomal Office in Downing 
Street, the Governor communi- 
cates on all matters of State. 
Locally the executive and admin- 
istrative power is in the hands 
of the Governor, who is assisted 
by an Executive Council of seven 
official members. 

“ The Executive Council con- 
sists of the Officer commanding 
the troops, the Colomal Secretary, 
the Attorney-General, the Con- 
troller of Revenue, the Treasurer, 
and tw^o additional officers nomi- 
nated by the Governor. 

“ The Legislative Council con- 
sists of the Governor, the above 
seven Executive Councillors, four 
other office - holders, and six 
nominated and four elected un- 
official members. Of the elected 
members, two represent the 
Europeans — one elected by the 
urban residents, and one by 
residents in the country Districts 
and small towns. One member 
is for the Burgher class, and 
one for the educated Ceylonese 
other than Burghers or Europeans. 
Of the nominated unofficial mem- 
bers two represent the low-country : 
Sinhalese, two the Tamils, one the 
Kandyans, and one the Muham- 
madan commumty. 

“ For purposes of general ad- 
ministration the Island is divided 
into nine Provinces, presided over 
by Government Agents.” — White. 

The Governor is appointed for a 
term of six years, at a salary of 
Rs. 105,000 (including Rs.22,500 
entertainment allowance) 
annum, wnth residences in Col- 


ombo, Kandy, and Nuwara Eliya. 
The late Governor, Sir John 
Anderso , G.C.M.G.. K.C.B., ap- 
pointed in April 1916, -died in 
ivla rch 1918. Sir William Mannin g 
h 's succeeded him 

Travelling ^ in Ceylon is, for the 
most part, comparatively easy. 
The Railway has always been a 
Government system, and is one 
of the principal sources of revenue 
in the Island. The first section 
was opened in 1865 ; there are 
now 706 m. open, including the 
branches. The hnes are con- 
I structed on a broad gauge {5 ft. 
6 in.) with exception of the Kelani 
Valley Railw^ay and the Nuw’ara 
Eliya section (2 ft. 6 in. gauge). 
On the main lines the chief trains 
are provided with refreshment 
cars and good sleeping accommo- 
dation (Rs.5, above ist class 
fare) . The Roads are in most 
places excellent, and the Rest- 
houses are far more comfortable 
places of abode than the corre- 
sponding institutions in India. In 
the larger towns, such as Eadulla, 
Ratnapura, Matara, and at some 
of the stations on the great north 
road, they are, in all but name, 
hotels ; but the traveller is not 
allowed to remain in them more 
than three days without permis- 
sion, which, how^ever, is easily 
procured. On all the principal 
roads they are usually provided 
with bed- and table-linen, baths, 
tea and dinner services, etc. This 
is not, however, the case at those 
on the less - frequented roads, 
wffiere the Rest-houses often fur- 
nish only shelter. The Coaches 
are not very comfortable or well 
horsed, but are still in some places 
the only vehicles available. Seats 
should be engaged as long before- 
hand as possible. Carriages for 
long journeys can be hired in the 
larger towns. The rate for two 
horses is generally R.i per mile, 
the* hirer paying all tolls On 

1 The Pocket Time and Pate i abUs 
(10 c.). published by the Ceylon Government 
Raihvay, i" a most useful compilation. 



CEYLON 


^54 


the more important routes, how- 
ever, motor- bus services are re- 
placing the old horse-coaches. In 
remote places the BuUock cart or 
the Hackery (a light cart with a 
trotting bull) is the only con- 
veyance possible. Bicycles (’with 
sifong brakes) are most useful. 
The Motor-car, however, is now 
commonly used everywhere in the 
Island, and affords the most per- 
fect means of touring the Island. 
Cost may be calculated roughly 
at R.i, 25 c. per mile. Cars may 
be hired at Colombo or Kandy. 
Motorists are warned to be careful 
of the sharp elbows and S turns 
on the roads. The gradients in 
some places are severe. Messrs 
H. W. Cave Sc Co. publish a Motor 
Map of the Island, price Rs 2 , ( 50 c, ) 
A coasting steamer makes a circuit 
of the island twice weekly, once 
North and once South. 

A hst of books on Ceylon will 
be found, under the heading 
“Ceylon,” under “Books” in 
the Introduction, at page xxxii.^ 
Good maps may be procured at 
the Surveyor-Generars office. 

Travellers generally enter Cey- 
lon by the PORT OF COLOMBO 
Population 211,274 in 1911. Bat 
55' N., long. 79“ 50' E, The 
flashing light is visible 18 m. at 
sea. It is situated on shore, 
near the S. end of the harbour, on 
the top of the Clock Tower. 

The Landing Jetty and Custom 
House he at the S. end of the har- 
bour, and receive the protection 
of four magnihcent breakwaters, 
of which the S.AV. Breakwater was 
first constructed. This structure, 
the first stone of which was laid by 
King Edward VII., then Prince 
of Wales, on the 8th December 
1875, was completed in 1885, 
at a cost of ^705,207. It is 
4212 ft. long, and is formed of 
concrete blocks of from 18 tons 
' to 33 tons each, and capped by a 
sohd concrete mass, the top of 

1 Fergu'i.'ion’sCo'^ow Handbook and Direc- 
tory contains all the usual detailed infor- 
mation in such works. 


which stands 12 ft. above low- 
water level. It terminates in a 
circular head, 62 ft. in diameter, 
on which stands the Pilot Station 
and a small lighthouse showing a 
red light . 

The N.E. Breakwater, which is a 
rubble embankment 1100 It. long, 
tipped from a staging, was com- 
menced in 1896 and completed m 
1902 at a cost of ;^93,665. 

The N.W. Breakv-ater is an 
island work 2657 ft. in length, and 
runmng between the S.W. and N.E. 
Breakwaters, leaving a S. entrance 
of 800 ft. and a N. entrance of 
700 ft. 

This breakwater is of similar 
construction to the S.W. Break- 
water, and carries two small light- 
houses, one at each head, N. and S. 
It was commenced in 1898 and 
completed in 1907 at a cost of 
^437.992. ^ ^ 

An arm running at an angle to 
the S.W. Breakwater was com- 
menced in 1907 and completed in 
1912 at a cost of ^^304,935. 

This breakwater is also similar 
in construction to the S.W. Break- 
water, and is 1800 ft. long, termin- 
ated by a circular head, on which 
stands a small lighthouse. 

The area protected by these 
breakwaters is 640 acres, or i sq. m., 
three-fourths of which have water 
more than 27 ft. deep, and afiord 
shelter, during the S.W. monsoon, 
for forty - seven ^cean - going 
steamers, drawing from 27 ft. to 
33 ft. of water, and forty-one 
during the N.E. monsoon, drawing 
from 27 ft. to 33 ft. of water. 

A Graving - dock, capable of 
taking vessels up to 700 ft. long, 75 
ft. broad and 30 ft. draught, and a 
Patent Slip for smaller vessels have 
been constructed. 

A Coaling Depot, 18 acres in ex- 
tent, with eighteen jetties, each 200 
ft. long, and a barge-repairing 
basin, have also been constructed. 

The shore accommodation for 
ships’ cargo has been much im- 
proved and added to by the con- 
struction of four large warehouses, 









COLOMBO 


655 


built on a reclamation on the S.E. 
margin of the harbour, with a qua\ 
frontage of 3795 ft. 

A canal connecting the harbour 
with lake is also under construction 
and nearing completion. 

The charge for conveying each 
person between the Passenger 
Jetty and any vessel witliin the 
inner harbour is 35 cents, or (jd , 
55 cents, or yd., from d 
A.M. to 7 P.M., and 7 P.M to 6 A M. 
respectively ; and 55 cents, or 
Qd., and 75 cents, or is., from 
6 A.M. to 7 P.M., and 7 pm 

to 6 A.m. respectu'^ely, between th. 
Passenger Jett\' and the outer 
harbour. 

The Grand Oriental Hotel stand 
near to and overlooking the Pas- 
senger Jetty, and close by the 
Bristol Hotel, “ Queen’s House,” 
the Barracks, and some remains oJ 
the old Dutch Fort. 

The traveller who intends to 
stop a day or two may prefer to 
drive on, a little more than a mite, 
to the Galle Face Hotel. He will 
pass by the Government Offices, 
looking out on the Gordon G-ardens 
and, proceeding between Queen’s 
House (the Governor’s residence) 
on his right, and the new General 
Post Office on the left, he will, after 
passing the Clock Tower Igood view 
of the city from the top, see p. 65; ; 
and the Barracks, consisting oi 
several blocks, built en echelon, at 
a great cost to the Colony, find 
himself on the fine open space 
called the Galle Face, intersected 
by the direct road to Galle. 

Nearly in the centre of the Galle 
Face Esplanade is a small fort, 
and a little farther to the south is 
the Colombo Club, a fine oval 
building overlooking the sea 
About the middle of the Pro- 
menade, near the sea, is a stone 
like a milestone, with an in- 
scription in which Sir Henry 
Ward, who made it. recommends 
the walk to the care of his suc- 
cessors for the use of ladies and 
children. 

The City of Colombo extends 


j from the KeUni River on the X. 
I to the fourth mile on the Galle 
I Road on the S., and has a breadth 
I of 3J m. from the sea to the E. 
outskirts. 

Drives. — Colombo and its neigh- 
bourhood afford scope for a multi- 
tude of charming and picturesque 
drives. Two especially may be 
mentioned, one of which might be 
taken in the morning and the other 
in the evening of the same day. 
The first is recommended to those 
who have not yet seen anything 
of the Fast, and to whom the 
native town of Colombo will afford 
a pleasing introduction to the 
distinguishing characteristics of 
Oriental life and scenery ; but. 
excepting the latter part of it, 
which is pretty, there is little in 
this drive to interest one already 
familiar with India. 

(i) Commence at the Galle Face 
Hotel, and take the road along the 
sea past the Barracks, until the 
statue of Sir E. Barnes is reached. 
He was Governor between 1824 
and 1831. Then turn to the right 
into the Pettah, or Native Town, 
past an old Dutch belfry, beyond 
which are the Town Hall and 
Public Market-place. Here two 
street? diverge — the one to the 
left, Sea Street, where d^vell the 
dealers in rice and cotton, and 
where are tw’O Htndu Temples, 
quaint and picturesque, but of no 
great size or importance ; the 
other, Wolfendahl Street, to the 
right, conducts to Wclfeudahi 
Ghurcla, a massive cruciform build- 
ing on high ground, built by the 
Dutch in 1749, on the site of 
an old Portuguese church called 
Aqua de Lupo, and commanding a 
fine view of the cit}^ and harbour. 
Here are monuments and hatch- 
ments recording the decease of 
Dutch officials. It is the most 
interesting as well as the most 
complete of the few remaining 
relics of the Dutch occupation. 
Thence the drive may be continued 
in a N.E. direction to the R.C. 



CEYLON 


656 

Cathedral of Santa Lucia, adjoining 
which is a college for Roman 
Catholic boys and a convent with 
school and orphanage attached. 
Then N. and a little W. the 
Anglican Cathedral of St Thomas 
is reached. It stands in a park, 
given by Dr Chapman, the first 
Bishop. About i m. to the 
N. is St Jaynes's Roynayi Catholic 
Church. The drive through 
the suburb of Mutwal is ex- 
tremely picturesque. It is chiefly 
inhabited by fishermen, who 
are mostly Roman Cathohcs, as 
the numerous large and imposing 
R.C. churches testify. In Mutwal 
are the new Graving-dock, and a 
reservoir in connection with the 
town w'ater supply. On reaching 
the Kelani River at the end of the 
long street of Mutwal, turn to the 
right, and, crossing a tongue of 
land till the river is again reached, 
follow its bank to the Victoria 
Bridge, which carries the great 
load to Kandy, and supersedes a 
most picturesque Bridge of Bo^ts, 
long one of the most attractive 
spots in Colombo to an artist. 
This part of the drive shows to 
perfection the way in which the 
tiny houses and small churches are 
so nestled under the shelter of the 
trees as to be altogether invisible 
from above. Turning to the right 
at the bridge, follow the dusty and 
ever-crowded ” St Joseph ” or 
“ Grand Pass ” Road till Skinner’s 
Road is reached. Turn left along 
it under a fine avenue of Madras 
thorn, till the Railway Station at 
Maradana is reached, and thence 
follow^ the side of the fresh-water 
lake, across which good views may 
be obtained, till Galle Face is once 
more reached. 

(2) The second drive commences 
by crossing the bridge from Galle 
Face, almost immediately behind 
the hotel, to Slave Island, and 
then driving along the edge of 
a beautiful fresh - water lake 
past the pretty residence of the 
General commanding the troops 
in Ceylon to the Victoria Park 


The traveller should not omit to 
notice a picturesque httle Bud- 
dhist temple on the other side of the 
lake nearly opposite the General's 
house. The Park occupies the 
site of the old Cinnamon Gardens, 
and is well laid out with orna- 
mental grounds, in the midst of 
which a Museum was built in 1877. 
It is exclusively devoted to the 
exliibition of Ceylon products, 
antiquities, and natural history, 
and is on that account of the very 
greatest interest to the visitor. 
The famous tortoise, said to have 
been over two hundred years old 
at his death, is preserved here. 
On the basement are some inter- 
esting stone fragments, and par- 
: ticularly a colossal hon, brought 
from Polonnaruwa, on which the 
King sat to administer justice, one 
of the unique windows from the 
ruins of Yapahuwa (p. 678), the cast 
of a colossal portrait statue of 
King Parakrama Bahu, a.d. ii 53» 
and some fine bronze statues 
from Anuradhapura. The copies of 
the frescoes at Sigiriya (p. 680) on 
the walls of the staircase should 
be noticed. The entrance-hall is 
handsome, and to the right of it 
is a library, to which the pubhc 
have access from 6.30 to 10 A.M., 
and from 3 to 5 p.m. In front of 
the Museum is a statue of the Rt. 
Hon. Sir W. Gregory, Governor 
from 1872 to 1877. 

(3) A tram-car (ist-class seats in 
front) may be taken at the Bristol 
Hotel to Borella and back. The 
interest of this drive is the bright 
picture it gives of the life of the 
people, the town, and its charac- 
teristic features. 

(4) If time and opportunity 
permit, the traveller should mount 
to the summit of the Great Reser- 
voir at Maligakande, part of the 
fine engineering work which fur- 
nishes Colombo with an abundant 
supply of good water carried in 
pipes from Labugama, about 25 m. 
distant (see p. 669). A city of 
over 200,000 people lies at the 
spectator’s feet, but, except for a 



ROUTE I. COLOMBO TO KANDY 


65; 


luw towers aud domes, it is invis- 
ible. the whole being concealed by 
the mass of vegetation which 
overshadows it. Another good 
view of Colombo is to be had from 
the Clock Tower. The attendant 
expects a small fee (see p 655). 

Excursions. — One of the plea- 
santest in the neighbourhood of 
Colombo is that to a Buddhist 
temple at the village of Kelani, 

2 m. up the river of the same name. 
Pass through the hot and dusty 
Pettah, or Native Town, for about 
4 m., as far as the river, which is 
crossed by the massive iron Vic- 
toria Bridge (see p 656). After 
crossing the bridge the road passes 
through coconut groves and 
among the houses of the dense 
population for another 2 m., when 
the temple itself is reached. The 

ahawanso refers to it as contem- 
porary with Buddha. The original 
dagoba was built at a very early 
period, but the one that is now 
standing was constructed between 
the years 1240-67 a.d., and rebuilt 
about 1301 A.D. It stands on the 
nver-bank, and is handsomely, 
though gaudily, decorated. Ac- 
cording to the Colombo Guide, it 
stands on the site of a slmne 
erected by Prince Yatalatissa, 1 
306 B.c. A great festival takes i 
place here at the full moon of May, j 
and lasts four days. ; 

None of the exclusiveness which [ 
distinguishes Hindu and Muham- | 
madan shrines is to be found in the i 
Buddhist temples, to every part of j 
which a stranger is freely wel- j 
corned by the yellow-robed monks. 1 
This, however, does not apply to i 
the dewalas, which are, stnctly j 
speaking, Hindu shrines. 


Trips to Kaduwella (see p. 668) 

! and to Kotta, where there is a 
College of the Church Missionary 
Societ}^ prettily situated, may also 
be taken. 

Also 23 m. N. to Negombo and 
i 50 m. to Chilaw, going by railway, 

I by the line which branches off 
j from Ragama (see Route 6). 

Excursions round the island 
* niav be made by the boats of the 
Ceylon S.S. Co., which sail alter- 
nate Wednesdays S. and alternate 
Fridays N., and make the circuit 
m about eight days. 


ROUTE I. 

COLOMBO TO KANDY 

(Ey rail 75 m.) Opened jS&7 

The line on leaving Colombo 
passes first through portions of the 
Cinnamon Gardens, and then 
crosses the River Kelani by a very 
fine girder bridge. To those who 
have never before visited the 
tropics this journey will be full of 
interest. They will see for the 
first time vast stretches of paddy 
land of the most vivid green, the 
unfamiliar but soon recognised 
forms of the cashew, the bread- 
fruit, the jack, the frangipani, and 
the various forms of palm — coco- 
nut, areca, kitool, and above all 
the talipot, a specimen of the. 
gigantic white flower of which is 
generally visible at some point on 
the journey. 

From h m. Maradana Junction 


The Kelani Valley Rahway, 
opened in igo2, was the first line 
constructed on a narrow gauge 
in Ceylon. 

A favourite excursion by tram 
is to Mount I»avinia, 7 m. from 
Colombo (see p. 672). 


a branch line runs to AvisawelU 
and A'atiyantota {p, 669). 

At 9 m. Ragama station. Here 
the Boer mercenaries taken 
prisoners during the war were 
interned. The buildings are now 


2T 



CEYLON 


65s 

used as a camp for the coolie 
immigrants. There is a branch 
line from here to Negombo (see 
p. 676). 

At 10 J m. Mahara there is a 
convict establishment. The con- 
victs quarry the stone for the 
breakwater. The stone is con- 
veyed in vast quantities by rail 
direct from the quarry to the 
harbour. 

Heneratgoda Station ^ m. irom 
the station is a Government 
Botanic and Experiment Garden, 
opened in 1876 for the cultivation 
of the first Para rubber plants in- 
troduced into Ceylon. The ori- 
ginal trees, as well as the second 
and third generation, may be seen 
here. One of the original trees 
known as Heneratgoda N. 2, is ot 
great dimensions for its age, and 
has become famous for its prolific 
yield of rubber, yielding 375 lbs. 
dry rubber during the years 1909- 
1912, while in no way affecting its 
vitality. Here may be seen Gam- 
bier [Uncaria gambier), also a 
caoutchouc - yielding shrub of 
Malaya, which thrives and pro- 
duces seed here, though not at 
Peradeniya ; also species of rubber 
producing lianas {Landolphia) ; 
the valuable drug ipecacuanha, 
which thrives in the moist tropical 
heat here to an extent not known 
at higher elevations. A female 
specimen of the Double Coco- 
nut *’ (Coco-de-mer), planted in 
1884, flowered and set fruit here in 
1915 for the first time in Ceylon, 
being fertilised from pollen sent 
from a male tree at Peradeniya. 
The fruit is still unripe (1917). A 
portion of the original jungle of 
the low country of Ceylon, which 
has been preserved in the Garden, 
is a source of interest, especially 
to botanists. 

34 m. Ambepussa station (R.H.). 
The fine here enters the lower hills, 
and is considered to pass through 
some of the most unhealthy 


country in the island. The mor- 
! tahty was terrible when the ori- 
‘ ginal cart-road was made froni 
i Colombo to Kandy ; but in 
i constructing the railway this was 
I to some degree avoided by taking 
I the labourers back to Colombo 
I every night. 

45 m. Polgalxawela Junction 

! station (R H. new and commo- 
! dious), 241 ft. above sea-level, 
i 2 m. from here are a large Bud- 
I dhist monastery and temple, re- 
cently erected at Denagomuwa. 
This is the junction for the direct 
hne to Kurunegala, Anuradhapura, 
Jaffna, and Kankesanturai (257 m. 
from Colombo) in the extreme N. 
of the island {Route 8). 

I . The work of linking Ceylon with 
I India by a railway to Manaar, 
j a ferry service thence to the island 
of Rameswaram, and a railway 
again from Rameswaram to the 
Indian mainland, is in progress, 
and will be completed in a year 
or two (p. 594)' 

j Coach to Kegalia, 8 m. 

I 8 m. S. of Polgahawela is Keg- 
I alia (R.H. ★), a small town in a 
! most lovely situation, and encom- 
! passed by the most delightful 
I scenery. It is the headquarters of 
\ the Assistant Government Agent 
j of the Sabaragamuwa Province. 

52 m. Rambukkana station 
' (R.H.). Here the ascent of the 
I “ Incline ” commences at an eleva- 

■ tion of 31 3 ft., and continues 12 m. 

! with a gradient of i in 45 to an 
, elevation of 1698 ft. The vegeta- 
I tion is here of great richness and 
. beauty. 

■ 65 m, Kadugannawa station is 
' at the top of the pass. On the 
i way up three telegraph stations 
j are passed, and the beautiful 
j scenery and increasing coolness of 
j the air make the journey most 
j enjoyable. Two new tunnels (one 
I of them a very long one) have been 
1 constructed to secure immunity 



ROUTE I. COLOMBO TO KANDY! PITRADENIYA 


659 


irom rock tails, which, during the 
monsoons, have hitherto inter- 
rupted through-communication for 
prolonged periods. Near the top 
of the incUne the road made by 
Sir Edward Barnes is seen on the 
right, winding up the hill. The 
two roads reach the summit of the 
i>ass at the same spot, and there 
a column (a model of the Duke of 
York’s Column in London) has 
been erected to the memory of 
Captain Dawson, the engineer of 
the first road. Just over the 
station is the Hill of Belungala 
(the Watcher’s Rock), 2543 ft. 
above sea-level, from which, in the 
troubled days of old, a watch was 
kept to report an enemy advancing 
irom the plains. 

71 m. Peradeni^a Junction 
station. This place is 136 ft. 
lower than the top of the pass. 
The main line continues S., whilst 
the breincli line to Kandj^ and 
Matale strikes N. Half a mile 
from the junction is New Pera- 
deniya station, where, if the 
visitor is pressed for time, he 
should arrange to have a carnage 
waiting for fim, drive round the 
Botanic Gardens, and on to 
Kandy. 

New Peradeniya Station. The 

Royal Botanic Gardens, Pera- 
deniya, are some of the finest in the 
East. It is m from New Pera- 
deniya Station and sh 
Kandy. Approaching the Gar- 
dens, on the right is a row of the 
beautiful tree {Amherstia nobilis) 
the most beautiful of flowering 
trees. Opposite, on the left ap- 
proach, there was for upwards of 
seventy years a striking l^dmark 
m a row of Rambong rubber trees 
[Ficus elastica), which, dying from 
old age, were replaced by a row of 
young plants of the same species in 
1914. The entrance gate pillars 
are draped by the beautiful yellow- 
flowered creeper Bignonia unguis, 
and on either side is a specimen of 
the stately African oil palm. On 


j entering, the visitor is confronted 
I with a large oval group of palms, 
i containing numerous and interest- 
j ing species. To the right is the 
! Spice Collection, including very 
1 fine nutmeg trees over seventy years 
i old, also cloves, cinnamon, allspice, 

; vanilla, cardamom, ginger, etc. 
I Along the centre of the Gardens is 
: the straight ]Main Central Drive, 
i bordered on either side by a sloping 
I bank of mixed tropical fohage and 
[ flowering shrubs, etc., and shaded 
I by tall trees in the background. 
I Branching off to the left at right 
' angles is the IMonument drive, lead- 
’ ing to Gardener Monument, and 
j passing through a young avenue ol 
j the interesting “ Double Coconut ” 
i palm (Coco-de-mer). Opposite to 
j this, on the right, is the short but 
shady Liana drive, along which are 
; to be seen fine specimens of tropi- 
; cal climbers, including the climbing 
rattan palm [Calayniis) and the 
curious chain-hke stems of Bau- 
hima an gum a. Reaching a grav- 
elled circle here Avith a water tank 
in the centre containmg interesting 
water plants, the visitor should 
stop to visit the Floriculture sec- 
tion, Orchid House, Octagon Con- 
servatory, Fernery, the pergola ol 
t the curious flowered Avistolochia 
\ (Fly- catchers), and other floAvenng 
. chmbers. 

j Returning to the carriage drive 
! and continuing, a collection of 
J tropical fruit trees is passed on the 
I left, also close to the drive a row of 
young Talipots — the IMajestic palm, 
j of Avhich an avenue may be seen in 
the Southern portion of the Gar- 
dens. On turning the loop of the 
drive, note on the left some verv 
large specimens of the Quango, 

\ or Rain-tree, of tropical South 
America. These were introduced 
about 1850, and are the parents of 
I most of the trees so largely planted 
, for shade along the road-side 
I throughout the Island. Next to 
^ these, close to the drive, is a row of 
j the Cannon-ball tree, also of S. 

! America, bearing along the stem a 
1 profusion of curiously shaped 



66o 


CEYLON 


flowers in March and April, 
iollowed by large brown remark- 
able fruits resembling cannon- 
balls. Behind are the Nurseries, 
also a row ot the striking 
buttressed tree known as Java 
Almond {Canavhiin Comnmne). 
Further on, on the leftj is a straight 
avenue of Palmyrah palm, which 
is indigenous to the dry region 
ot Northern Ceylon and Southern 
Inrlia. The Palmyrah palm takes 
tirst place after the Coconut for 
usefulness to the peasants in the 
dry regions of Northern Ceylon. 

The drive now passes through an 
av'enue of Koyal Palms [Oreodoxa 
regia) Further on, on the left, is a 
mixed avenue of the fine flowering 
tree Brownea grandiceps and the 
equally beautiful Cassia muUijuga. 
Continuing, the drive skirts the 
Arboretum and follows the river- 
bank, Striking glimpses may be 
obtained across the river of Ganga- 
roowa hill and valley, where the 
Government Experiment Station 
is situated. The Great Circle is a 
fine stretch of circular lawn with a 


round group ol palms in the centre. 
It was here that the first Jlubber 
Exhibition ever held took place, 
VIZ., m 1906. Extending to the 
North is a straight avenue of the 
cabbage palm {Oreodoxa oleracea) , 
Pound the circle are many fine 
trees, including several planted by 
Poyaities, including one each bv 
Eing Edward and King George. 
Fhe Mam Central Drive being 
again reached, it should be fol- 
J(->wed for a short distance where 
two roads diverge ofi on the right. 
These lead to the Head Offices of 
the Department of Agriculture and 
its library, herbarium, museum 
and laboratories. 

The museum is open to the 
public and contains an interesting 
collection of botanical exhibits as 
well as of agricultural products 
insects, etc. Returning to tiie 
Mam Central Drive, the Great 
Pawn remarkable for its wide 
extent and undulating contour, is 
passed on Uie right, the Fernery 


and Floriculture section on the left. 
Turning to the right, the Monu- 
ment Road, already referred to, 
may be taken. Following the lawn 
and turning to the right again, 
a row of the fine foLiaged and 
hoovering tree (Jacaranda nnmo- 
scefolia) is passed on the hillside 
on to the left. Reaching the river 
drive by the short loop to the left, 
a good view of the river and the 
bamboos fringing its banks is ob- 
tained. The small lake now' 

I reached contains interesting water 
I iflants, including the Egyptian 
l^apyrus and the Giant Water-lily 
{Victoria regia). The carnage 
i drive now enters the new' Pai- 
I metum, planted in 1916. Here 
also is a short but very striking 
avenue of the Talipot palm, tlic 
giant ot the^alm tribe. Behind 
IS the Students’ Garden, and 
lurther on a collection of bamboos 
and screwpmes [Pa^idayii). Here 
a glimpse may be obtained oi the 
three-spanned iron and concrete 
bridge which displaced in 1906 the 
famous one-spanned Satinw'ood 
Bridge. (A model of the latter is 
m the South Kensington Zsluseum.) 
Returning by the drive to the 
Main Entrance this very brief tour 
of the Gardens is completed. 

To summarise, it may be stated 
that to an ordinary visitor the 
chief features oi the Gardens are 
the enormous clumps of Giant 
bamboo, extensive and well-kept 
lawns surrounded by magnificent 
".pecimens of trees, avenues ol 
palms (Talipot, PalmyraH, Royal 
palm and Cabbage palm) and the 
specimens of Ficus elastica with its 
enormous buttressed roots mean- 
tiering o^er the surface. 

Crossing the river by the ferry 
to the Experiment Station at Gan- 
garoowa, one may see areas ot 
tea, coiiee, cacao, rubber, coconuts, 
rice and vanilla under experimen- 
tal culture, and smaller plots of 
various plants of economic im- 
portance in the tropics. 

The various tapping and manu- 
nai experiments with Para rubber 



COLOMBO TO KANDY 


66i 


are of considerable importance to 
the rubber industry of the Colony, 
while in the tea plots the advan- 
tages of growing small leguminous 
shrubs between the tea has been 
clearly demonstrated. The old 
cacao is under manurial experi- 
ment, while areas of younger 
plants are rapidly coming into 
bearing. Areas of coconuts are 
being treated with different 
methods of cultivation and various 
varieties of rice are being tried 
experimentally. 

On this Experiment Station are 
the remains of an old Portuguese 
Fort, which are being maintained 
in good condition. 

Near the gates of the Gardens 
and lo mins, walk from New Pera- 
deniya Station, is a comfortable 
Kest-house. 

A tea-estate and factory oppo- 
site the railway station may be 
visited by arrangement. 

75 m. KANDY station ♦ (Junc- 
tion for Matale, p. 679). The 
capital of the former kingdom of 
Kandy, 1602 ft. above sea-level; 
population 30,000. 

History. — The first authentic 
mention of Kandy as a city 
IS in the Sagama inscription 
of the 14U1 century. In 1542, 
according to the ^lahavansa 
Chronicle, it became the seat 
of Vira Vikrama, king of the 
up-countrv, but it rvas not until 
the close of the i6th century 
that it was adopted as the capital 
of the island by Vi mala Dharma 
Suriya I. after the destruction of 
Kotte and the defeat of Raja Sinha 
I. of Sitawaka in i593* During 
the wars wdth the Portuguese and 
Dutch, Kandy was so often burned 
that scarcely any of the ancient 
buildings, except the temples and 
the royal residence, were remaining 
when the English took it in 1815. 
The Palace, a wing of which is still 
occupied by the Goveniment 
Agent of the Province, consisted of 
a number of buildings scattered 


over the area behind the Temple 
of the Tooth and along Malabar 
Street, so called from the dwellings 
of the “ Malabar ” or Tamil rela- 
tives of the later kings. The im- 
provement of the city was under- 
taken subsequent to 1803 by the 
last king, Sri Vikrama Raja Sinha, 
by w^hom the Octagon, the main 
Portico of the Palace (noiv leading 
to the Maligawa Temple), and the 
lake, were either completed or com- 
menced. The Temple, m which 
the sacred tooth is deposited, well 
deseiw^es a visit. 

Description. — The scenery up to 
Kandy is magnificent. Kandy is 
picturesquely situated on the 
banks of a small artificial lake, 
overhung on all sides by hills. A 
load called Lady Horton’s Walk 
wands round one of those hills, and 
on the E. side, wdnch is almost 
precipitous, looks down on the 
I valley of Dumbara, through which 
the Maha^veli-ganga rolls over a 
channel of rocks, “ presenting a 
scene that in majestic beauty can 
scarcely be surpassed.’' In a park 
at the foot of this acclivity is the 
Pavilion of the Governor. Ser- 
j pents are numerous here, especi- 
I ally the cobra and carawilla. The 
j large black scorpion, as big as a 
1 crayfish, is also found here. 

i The Maligawa Temple or 
! “ Temple of the Tooth,” though 
not grand or imposing, is one of 
the most picturesque buildings in 
Ceylon. It stands with its back 
against a wooded hill ; at its feei 
lies the long moat or tank, ahve 
; wath tortoises, and crossed by a 
small bridge, flanked by two 
carved stone elephants. Above, 
an enclosing battlemented wall 
looks over a flat expanse of the 
I greenest grass dotted over with 
1 trees. 

In the centre of the courtyard, 
and occupying the greater "part 
! of it, IS the sacred building. On a 
v^tus flow’er of pure gold h'dden 
under seven concentric bell-sliaped 



662 


CEYLON 


metal shrines, increasing in rich- 
ness as tile} dimmish m size, and 
containing jewels of much beauty, 
now reposes the sacred relic. 

The " sacred tooth was 
brought to Ceylon in the reign of 
Sri Meghavanna, 304-332 a.d. 
(according to Geiger, 352-379 a.d.), 
in charge of a Princess of Kalinga, 
who concealed it in the folds of her 
hair. It was taken by the Tan- 
dyans about 1283 a.d., and again 
carried to India, but was recovered 
by Parakrama Bahu 111 . Later 
on the relic was at Kotte, but in 
1 560 was discovered by the Portu- 
guese at Jahna, taken to Goa by 
Don Constantine de Braganza, and 
burned by the Archbishop in the 
presence of the Viceroy and his 
court. The Buddhists deny the 
authenticity of the rehc so de- 
stro^^ed, and assert that the real 
tooth was hidden and is the one 
now at Kandy. This is a piece of 
discoloured ivory, 2 in. long and 
less than i in. in diameter, re- 
sembling the tooth of a crocodile 
rather than that of a man. There 
is some evidence to show that 
Kandy, as well as Kotte, boasted 
f)f a tooth relic in the early i6th 
'cnlury 'riiore are many other 
jewels and ornaments of interest 
m the shrine, the brazen doors of 
which merit observation. The 
eaves of the projecting roof, the 
massive supporting pillars, corbels, 
and ceilings are profusely decor- 
ated in bright colours with painted 
figures, grotesque monsters, and 
floral patterns. The octagon 
tower contains a fine Oriental 
hbrary. 

The Kaciiclieri, the District 
Court, and the Supreme Court 
form three sides of a triangle. 
The Supreme Court is the audience 
hall of the kings ; the carving of 
the wooden pillars is notable. If 
the Court is sitting, the English 
visitor will be struck by the system 
of interpreting evidence. 

Near the Kachcheri is the 
Museum of the Kandyan Art 


1 School, where articles in silver 
and brass are for sale. 

I No one should leave Kandy 
I without seeing the Peradeniya 
Gardens (see p. 659). 

I An interesting excursion may be 
I made to three Buddhist temples 
j situated near each other at a little 
: distance from Kandy — Gadala- 
d^aiya, Gallengolla, and Lanka- 
! rilaka Each is curious in a 
I different way One is a modern 
temple, very well kept up, and 
situated most romantically among 
[ huge boulders of rock ; the second 
i is very ancient, but in the last 
i stage of neglect, decay, and dilapi- 
: dation ; the third, Lankatilaka , is 
I remarkable alike for its situation 
I on the top of a rock and for the 
I character of its architecture, which 
I i', very unlike that of any other 
I temple in Ceylon. Motor-cars 
j can proceed within m. of Lanka - 
I tilaka, but the latter portion of 
the road is rough, and only fit for 
i traffic in dry weather. 

I There are many other pleasant 
; drives and ndes to be taken in the 
' neighbourhood of Kandy. 

‘ With a motor many dehghtfiil 
1 and more extensive excursions can 
} be made. The extensive planta- 
i tions of cacao on the banks of the 
' Mahaweli-ganga, a few miles below 
' Kandy, deserve a visit. 


(i) To Kunmegala, vit/ the 
{16 m.) Galagedera (R.H.) Pass and 
Weuda (R.H.), where there is 
good snipe-shooting in season. 


j (2) To (15 m.) Teldeniya^ 

! (R.H.). 6 m. from here is the 

I Medamaha Nuwara Peak, on 
I which is an old Sinhalese Fort 
1 and City of Refuge. The road 
i leads on 


i {3) To Madugoda (R.H.), thence 
j by a minor road to Weragantota 
■ (R.H.), in the Central Province. 

1 The Mahaweli-ganga is crossed 



ROUTE 2 . COLOMBO TO NUWARA ELIYA 


by a ferry (not fit for motors) 
to Alutnuwara (see p. 666), in the 
I'va Province. The traveller is 
now in the Bintenna country. 
The straight course due north 
taken by the river is remarkable. 
Burrows' Visitors' Guide to 
Kandy and Nuwara Eliya, also 
Or Willis’s guide-book, may be 
consulted mth advantage. 


ROUTE 2. 

COLOMBO TO NUWAEA ELIYA, 
BANDARAWELLA, BADULLA, 
and BATTICALOA. 

(Rail to Nuwara Eliya; carriage to Badulla ; 
or, alternatively, rail to Bandaiawella ; 
coach to Badulla and on to Batticaloa 
— total distance 274 m.) 

This route so far as Peradeniya 
junction is the same as Route i 
(There is a sleeping-car on the 
night mails between &lombo and 
Nanu-oya ) 

The line then continues to 78 
m. Gampola {i573 ft.) (R.H.). ; 
From here a road strikes off to ; 
Nuwara Eliya (see p. 664). | 

8 ^ m. Nawalapitiya (1913 
whence a road leads to (22 m.) 
Talawakelle (see below). 

From that point the stations are 
on a constantly rising level to 

108 m, Hatton station, 4141 ft. 
above the sea. 

At Hatton roads from Navala- j 
pitiya Dickoya (including Mas- j 
keliya and Bogowantalawa) and j 
Talawakelle meet, i 

The drive to Talawakelle I 
(3932 ft.) (12 m.) (seep. 664) is very i 


663 

pleasant. The traveller gets good 
views of the very pretty Devon 
Falls and the magmficent St Clair 
['alls A motor-car may be hired 
at the Talawakelle Engineering 
Works. Passengers are also con- 
veyed by motor-lorry which leaves 
Talawakelle for Diyagama (17 m.) 
both morning and evening. 

From Hatton the ascent of 
Adam’s Peak (7420 ft.), the most 
celebrated, though not the highest, 
mountain in Ceylon, is most easily 
made.i* It is an expedition of 
much interest, and the wonderful 
shadow cast by the peak at sun- 
nse is a sight which will repay the 
trouble and fatigue. Camoens 
refers to the peak in his Lusiads. 
The manager of the ‘ Adam’s 
Peak Hotel at Hatton makes 
all arrangements for the visitor. 
•A moonlight night is generally 
chosen. It is a very beautiful 
drive of 12 m. to Maskehya 
(4200 ft.) and 14 m. to Laxapana.^ 
From here it is 8 m. to the 
top, the first five fairly easy 
going, and the last three rough, 
and possibly likely to be trying to 
, any persons easily made giddy, 
though the worst places are pro- 
tected, and chains of very old 
date facilitate the scramble to the 
actual summit. Stout boots and 
warm clothing are needed for the 
trip, and blankets should be taken 
up from the hotel— also means of 
maldng tea on the summit, which 
is only 150 ft. sq., and where a 
few Buddhist monks live. Under 
a wooden canopy is the sacred 
object of the pilgrimage— an im- 
pression of the foot of Buddha on 
the natural rock. It is about 
ft. long and 2J ft broad, and 
varies from 3 m. to 5 in. in 
depth- 

Hatton is also the point from 
which the great tea-districts of 
Dikoya and Dimouia may be most 
conveniently visited. These val- 
leys, formerly celebrated for their 
production of coffee, are now 
entireh' devoted to tea cultiva- 



CEYLON : XUWARA ELIYA 


664 


tioil. About the year 1870 the 
coffee plantations were attacked 
by a new fungus, Hemileia vasta- 
tyix, which choked the breathing 
pores of the leaves and gradually 
exhausted the energies of the 
plant. It was at first little re- 
garded, but in ten years' time it 
had well-nigh destroyed the pro- 
duction of coffee, and reduced the 
planting community to a state of 
ruin. The revenue of the island 
fell from over Rs. 17,000,000 in 
1877 to Rs. 12,161,570 in 1882, and 
large numbers of the wealthiest 
proprietors lost their estates, or 
remained on them merely as 
managers for their creditors. 
With indomitable energy the 
planting community set itself to 
work to remedy the disaster, and 
by the substitution of tea lor 
colfee they may be said to have 
thoroughly succeeded in doing 
so — though, of course, not with- 
out great individual loss and 
suffenng. In 1875 only 282 lb. 
of tea were exported from Ceylon, 
The export of 1915 amounted 
215,000,000 lb., while the 
revenue of the colony now treble.- 
the amount received in 1877. 

The valley of Maskeliya, a more 
newly-planted District, is separ- 
ated by a ridge from that of 
Dikoya, to which it is parallel. 
The Dimbula valley is traversed 
by a road from Nawalapitiya to 
Nuwara Eliya, into which a branch 
road from Hatton leads. 

On leaving Hatton the train 
passes through the longest tunnel 
on the railway. Just after the 
H4th mile the very fine St Claiy 
Falls are seen on the left (see 
p. 663). ^ 

n6 m. Talawakell© station 
IR.H.).^ 

The Horton Plains (see p. 665) 
may be reached by this route, by 
coach to Diyagama (17 m.) 

thence on foot or horseback 
(6 m.). 


From Talawakelle the fine again 
rises steadily to . 

128 m. Nanuoya station^ {5291 
ft.). This is the junction for the 
narrow-gauge railway, which rises 
I 1000 ft. in its last 6f m., to 
! Nuwara Eliya (135 m.) and 

; Ragala. For persons who prefer 
! to drive to Nuwara Eliya, from 
I Nanuoya there is (4^ m ) a good 
' road, with an ascent of 1000 ft. 
; A carriage or car can be ob- 
^ tained from the Grand Motor 
I Works, Hill Club, or Messrs Taylor 
i d: Co. 

4I m. the town of Nuwara Eliya, 4^ 
the sanatorium of Ceylon, is 
6199 ft. above the sea-level. The 
I summer residence of the Governor, 
i the Club, and Hotels are to the 
I N.W. of the lake. Much of the 
i ground about Nuwara Eliya is 
i open and moor-like, and is thickly 
' dotted with bushes of crimson 
[ rhododendron. The eucalyptus 
I and the wattle have been largely 
! planted about Nuwara Eliya, and 
j give the landscape a peculiar 
I character, which has also a some- 
! what Italian air imparted to it 
j by the numerous keena trees 
' {Calophyllum tomentosum), which, 

J though not a conifer, has a great 
I general resemblance in its habit 
I of growth to a stone-pine. Nu- 
i wara Eliya possesses a beautiful 
I park and one of the finest golf- 
I courses in the East. It is also the 
j headquarters of the Ceylon Fishing 
Club. The streams in and around 
Nuwara Eliya are well stocked with 
rainbow trout, which afford good 
sport in the open season (May- 
October), In the beautiful cUmate 
j of this station expeditions of 
j all sorts may be enjoyed.- The 
j finest are • — 

i (i) Round the Moon Plains, 

I 5 m. (2) To the top of Ramboda 

1 ^ Travellers are recommended to have 

warm wraps with them, as the temperature 
I here is very much lower than that of the 
plains, or even of Kandy. 

: “ Burrows’ Visitors' Guide to K^ndv and 

Hiuxoara Eliya is a useful handi'ook 



ROUTE 2. COLOMBO TO ETAMPITIYA : HAKGALA 66' 


Pass and back, 3m. (3) Round 

the Lake, 6 m. To Hakgala (see 
below), 6 m. PidunUalagala, the 
highest mountain in Ceylon (8280 
ft.), may be easil}^ ascended from 
Nuwara EHya. There is a bridle- 
path to the top, whence the view 
is extensive, but not specially 
striking. 

(4) A longer excursion is that to 
the Horton Plains, 18 m. from 
Nuwara Eliya (see also under 
Talawakelle, p. 664), via Blackpool 
and the Elk Plains. The easier 
route is by train to Pattipota, 
where there is a R.H., and thence 
by foot or on horseback : distance 
6 m. 

This excursion will take at least 
two days, one to go and one 
to return, and must be made 
on horseback. A bndle-path 
through wild and beautiful scenery 
terminates at a large R.H.,j{< in 
the neighbourhood of which are 
tremendous precipices, which 
descend to the great plain of the 
Kalu Ganga. At the “ World's 
End,” I m. easy w^alk from the 
R.H., along a charming jungle path, 
there is a very striking view. The 
mountains, Totapala anrt Kiri^al- 
potta (the highest peaks in the 1 
island after Pidunitalagala), may | 
be ascended from here. The path j 
to the summit of the latter (about 
2 hrs. from R.H.) is somewhat 
difficult ; a guide should be taken . 
The view is magnificent. 

(5) A drive out to Kandapolla 

(6^ m.) is very agreeable on a fine j 
day. ; 

(6) The Botanic Gardens at j 
Hakgala, 6 m. (see below on ; 
road to Badulla). 

From Nuwara Ehya the travel- 
ler may return to (35 m.) Gampola 
(p. 663) by the Ramboda Pass. 
The pass is negotiated by a series 
of zigzags on a very severe 
gradient, wdth dangerous corners. 

A number of very pretty water- ' 
falls are seen at (15 m.) Ramboda , 
(R.H.). 

Just before entering Gampola 
the Mahaweii-ganga is crossed by 


a fine suspension bridge, erected 
in 1S59. 

The drive from Nuwara Eli^^a to 
Badulla is extremely picturesque, 
but IS seldom taken since the 
railway has been opened to the 
latter place. 

On leaving Nuwara Eliya the 
road rises slightly after quitting 
the lake, and then commences a 
continuous and for the most part 
very steep descent of several 
thousand feet. At 6 m. from 
Nuwara Eliya we reach the 
Botanic Gardens at Hakgala (which 
derives its name from the resem- 
blance the bare rock above 
has to a human jaw), a visit 
to which ought on no account 
to be omitted by any one making 
a stay, however short, at Nuwara 
Ehya. The visitor is equally 
repaid by the beauty of the views 
from the gardens, and by the 
beauty of the gardens themselves, 
in which all the flowers and plants 
of temperate climates flourish 
freely, combined with much beau- 
tiful natural vegetation. Behind 
the Hakgala gardens rises the 
precipitous wall of bare rock 
which forms the face of the 
Hakgala mountain, whilst in 
front the ground sinks abruptly 
to valleys and low hills far below, 
and backed in the distance by the 
mountains of Uva. A distant 
view of the camp where the Boer 
prisoners were confined is to be 
had from the gardens. The road 
continues to descend very rapidly 
to (13 m.) Wtlso7is Bungalow and 
to Welimada (R.H.), a picturesque 
\dllage,*from which a public road 
branches off to the right to Ban- 
darawella (10 m.). 

26 m. Etampitiya, where we are 
again on the same level as Wilson's 
Bungalow. The traveller cannot 
fail to be struck by the extent of 
terrace-cultivation "in the valleys 
traversed, the steepest hillsides 
being fashioned into an endless 
senes of narrow terraces, carefully 
irrigated, on which abundant 



666 


CEYLON : BADULLA 


crops of paddy are grown. From 
Etampitiya the road again falls 
continuously, until, after passing 
Dikwella, where it is joined by 
the road frorn Bandarawella, it 
reaches {37 m.) Badulla (see 

below) . 

The main railwa>' from Nanuoya 
continues to 

138 m. Pattipola station. A 
bridle-path (6 m.) leads to the 
Horton Plains (see p. 665), 
Shortly after the train reaches 
the summit level (6219 ft.). It 
then enters a tunnel, and emerg- 
ing, a most magnificent view of 
the Uva country is disclosed with 
dramatic suddenness to the left. 

^aputale station (4853 
ft) (R,H.) (.see p. 671). 

156 m. Diyatalawa station (4367 
seen 

the Boer Camp, where about 5000 
prisoners were confined during 
the war. It has been used as a 
military training camp and sana- 
tonum for the sailors ot the Easi 
India Station. 

i6r m. Bandarawella station 
(f>.f it.) (R.H.^j, the terminus 
Ot the main railway. 

About 10 rn. from Bandarawella 
are the headquarters of the Erre- 
bodde Hunt Club, where the jackal 
IS hunted from October to Janu- 
a-rj Pa^culars may be obtained , 
at the Hill Club in Nuwara Eliya. ; 

9 m, out of Bandarawella, on ' 
the way to Badulla. a road [ 
breaks off to the right to (10 m.) I 
ma, where there is a R H. most i 
beautifully situated. This mav I 
be made the object of an e.xcursion i 
trom Bandarawella, or the travel- 
ler may continue by this road 
to (IS m.) Passara (see below) 
through very fine scenery. j 

takes the traveller on 
to 18 m. BADULLA (R.H,*) the ' 
capital of the Province of^'Uva I 

and most attractive towns in I 


! Ceylon. It is situated on a slight 
I eminence, entirely surrounded by 
. green paddy-fields, and in the 
; immediate vicinity of a fine river, 
j while on all sides the background 
I is formed by mountains ot very 
I beautiful outline, 
j Fine avenues of Inga saman and 
! other trees adorn the town, which, 

' besides the usual Government 
buildings — Kachcheri, Govern- 
ment Agent's residence, etc. — 
contains a handsome market and 
a fine hospital. There is also an 
exceedingly pretty race - course 
surrounding a small lake. It is 
in the centre of a very flourishing 
group of tea-estates. The church 
and old churchyard merit a visit. 
The fine Duuhinde Waterfall is only 
3^- m, away, but is rather diffi- 
cult of access. 

Of the ancient city few traces 
remain. Not a vestige is to be 
seen of the palace of the Mags, 
and scarcely any indication of any 
buildings of considerable anti- 
quity. There are, however, two 
large and wealthy Buddhist tem- 
ples. the Mutiyangane Vihara and 
the Kataragame Dewale, which, 
though the present edifices are of 
no very great age, are picturesque 
and worth a visit. They occupy 
ancient sites, and the dagoba at 
the Mutiyangane Vihara is un- 
doubtedly of very early origin. 

A very interesting excursion 
may be made from Badulla to 
Aiutnuwara, 25 m. N,, on the 
Mahaweli - ganga, where there is 
an ancient dagoba in the midst 
of fine scenery. Alutnuwara may 
also be reached from Kandy, and 
one of the views on that route at 
the head of the sudden descent to 
the great eastern plain is among 
the finest in Ceylon (p. 663), 

Leaving Badulla, the road, 
which passes chiefly through fine 
tea-estates, rises rapidly to 

27 m. Passara (R.H,). From 
here the traveller may return to 
Bandarawella by a short road by 



ROUTE 2. COLOMBO TO BATTICALOA 


667 


Ella through beautiful scenery 
(see p 666). 

Proceeding, the road continues 
through some of the finest scenery 
in Ceylon to 

36 m. Luuugala (R.H. ^). Here 
the road descends. Nothing can 
exceed the beauty of the drive 
between this place and 

48 m. BibUe (R.H.), a good 
starting-point for excursions into 
the wild and beautiful country to 
the E. and S. (see p. 690). There 
are some springs of warm water 
near here. We are now in the 
Vedda country, and either here 
or at the next following Rest- 
Houses, 

47 J m. from Badulla iron bridge 
Ekiriyankumbara (R.H.) or 

57 m. Kalodai (R.H.) the travel- 
ler IS likely to meet with some 
of these singular specimens of 
humanity. They are a remnant 
of .the aboriginal inhabitants oi 
Ceylon, and are divided into two 
classes — the Rock and the Village 
Veddas. The Rock Veddas are 
absolute savages, who remain con- 
cealed in the forests, and are 
rarely seen by an European eye-— 
indeed few now exist. The Vil- 
lage Veddas, though often indulg- 
ing their migratory instincts, live 
in collections of mud and bark 
huts, in the vicinity of which they 
carry on some rude cultivation. 

67 m. Maha Oya (R.H.). Small 
hospital and dispensary. A very 
pretty R.H. on the borders of a 
tank, with excellent shooting in 
season. Here, at some distance 
off in the jungle, is a spring of 
hot water. 

80 m. Tumpalancholai (R.H.). 

83 m. a road to left leads to 
Rugaxn Tank, about ij m,, re- 
stored by Sir H. Ward, and now 
irrigating a large tract of country . 
Ih’om Bibile to Kumburuwella the 


traveller passes thi'ough what is 
known as the Bintenna country, 
where good shooting may be had 
in season. 

93f m. Chengaladi (R.H.). We 
have now entered a country almost 
; wholly inhabited by Tamils and 
' “ Mohrs,” as the Sinhalese 
i Muhammadans are called. The 
! familiar dagoba is no longer seen 
I in the villages, and its place is 
! taken by the Hindu pagoda or 
I the mosque. From Rugam on- 
I wards the country is highly culti- 
i vated and populous. 

[ At Chengaladi the road from 
Badulla joins the North Coast 
; road ; distance to Trincomalee, 

' about 74 m. (eight ferries to 
be crossed). Mutur (small Rest 
House, \ m. off the North Coast 
road), on the S. of Koddiyar Bay, 
about 57 m. from Chengaladi, is 
I famous as the scene of the capture 
of Robert Knox, the author of 
All Historical Relation of the Island 
Cevlon, by Robert Knox, a captive 
there near twenty years (1660- 
1679), published in 1681. 

From Chengaladi the road turns 
sharply to S.E. to 

103^ m. Batticaloa (R.H. %), the 
j capital of the Eastern Province. 

1 Batticaloa is situated on an island 
I in a remarkable salt-water lake, 

1 which extends for over 30 m. in 
length by from 5 m. to 2 m. in 
breadth, and is separated from 
the sea by a broad sandy belt now 
rich with coconut groves, and 
swarming with Tamil and Moorish 
villages from one end to the other, 
j The approach to the town by a 
causeway across the lake is pictur- 
I esque. The walls of the small old 
1 Dutch fort, now containing the 
I Kachcheri, are well preserved, 
j Batticaloa is famous as the abode 
! of that sin^lar natural curiosity 
I the “ singing - fish.” On calm 
j nights, especially about the time 
; of the full moon, musical sounds 
; are to be heard proceeding from 



668 


CEYLON: KADUWELL\ 


the bottom of the lagoon. They | 
resemble those which are produced i 
by rubbing the rim of a glass j 
vessel with a wet finger. The I 
writer has never heard more than j 
two distinct musical notes, one ' 
much higher than the other, but 
credible vdtnesses, such as Sir E. 
Tennent, assert that they have 
heard a multitude of sounds, 

“ each clear and distinct in itself, 
the sweetest treble minghng wath 
the lowest bass/’ The natives 
attribute the production of the ! 
sound to the shell-fish Cerithium 
palustre. This may be doubtful, 
but it is unquestionable that the 
sounds come from the bottom of 
the lagoon, and may be distinctly 
heard rising to the surface on all 
sides of a boat floating on the lake. 

If a pole be inserted in the water 
and its upper end applied to the 
ear, much louder and stronger 
sounds are heard than without 
such aid. 

The edible oyster is good and 
plentiful here. 

The Tamils call Batticaloa 
" Tamarind Island," from the 
graceful tamarind tree which is 
frequently seen. 

A steamer N. or S. about the 
Island leaves Batticaloa on ad- 
vertised dates. During the N.E. 
monsoon the steamer calls at 
Kalkudah {R.H.), 2o|- m. N. of 
Batticaloa, instead of at Batticaloa. 

From Batticaloa there is a good 
road for some 68 m. to Anigam 
Bay, thence by track to Palutu- 
pane (p. 676), through the Yala 
Game Sanctuary. 


ROUTE 3- 

COLOMBO TO EATNAPURA and 
BANDARAWELLA. 

^Rail to Avisaweila, and on to Rainapura, 
b> bpt*cial con\ c> a*ice to Haputaie (p. 671) ; 
and rail to liandarawella, or, aliet natively, 
by special conveyance the \’ihole way 
As the drive is a beautiful one*, the road 
to Avisaw'ella is described in place of the 
railway.) 

For convenience of arrangement this route 
' has been described from Colombo to 
Bandarawclla. The long ascent, how- 
ever, takes time, and the traveller who 
has not much leisure is recommended to 
go to Bandarawella by railway (Route 2), 
and to return to Colombo by this roiite- 

No excursion could show more 
of the characteristic features of 
Sinhalese scenery and Sinhalese 
life than this. It is oiie strongly 
recommended to those having 
time to perform it. The journey 
to Bandarawella will occupy about 
j three days — one day by train. 
Those who have less time to spare 
are strongly recommended to go 
as far as Ratnapura, returning to 
Colombo by the alternative route 
(No. 4} mentioned on p. 671. 
To Ratnapura and back by alter- 
native route will occupy more than 
a day. At Maradana junction 
the narrow - gauge Kelani Valley 
Railway begins. 

Leaving Colombo by special con- 
veyance through the narrow and 
crowded streets of the " Pettah," 
a very pretty road along the S. 
bank of the Kelani River may 
be followed, or a more direct but 
less picturesque road across the 
plain to 

to m Eaduwella, a R.H. charm- 
ingly situated on a bluff of red 
rocks above the river at a point 
where it makes a sharp turn. The 
R.H. veranda all but overhangs 
the river, and commands a de- 
lightful view, enlivened by the 
constant passage of leaf- thatched 



ROUTE 3. COLOMBO TO BANDARAWELLA : RAIN'APURA 669 


bargcij and sailing-boats, and by 
the picturesque groups all day 
crossing the river at the ferry 
close by. A short distance oft is 
an ancient Buddlnst temple of 
some size. The road continues 
near the river, through a rapid 
succession of villages and groves, 
to 

21 m. Hanwella (R.H.), a large 
village with a R.H,, commanding 
a beautiful view up and down the 
river. [9 m. S. of Hanwella is the 
tank of Labugama, which supplies 
Colombo with water. It is pic- 
turesquely situated among wooded 
hills, and well repays a visit.] 
The road now leaves the river and 
passes through <oiiiitr\' >11 which 
rubbei alternates with coconut, 
and becomes more and more pro- 
minent, whilst here and there are 
patches of tea to Puwakpittya and 

30 m. Avisawella station j 
(R.H. ^), surrounded by country , 
of very great natural beauty, j 
The railway from Colombo bran- j 
ches here, one section leading to | 
Vatiyantota (K.H.), and the other j 
to Ratnapura (R.H.), the present ! 
terminus. A further extension ol j 
this Une is under construction from j 
Ratnapura to the planting dis- | 
tricts of Pelmaduila and^ Opan- 
aike. A road leading N- from j 
Avisawella crosses the Sitawaka 
and Kelani Rivers by fine iron 
bridges both commanding lovel} 
views, and passes, by Ruwanwella 
(where there is an old Dutch fort 
converted into a very charming 
K.H.), through a lovely wooded 
and undulating country to Kegalla 
(p. 658), 

A branch line of the railway was 
opened to Ratnapuia Irom A visa- i 
wella in April 1912, to be ex- i 
tended to Kahawatta, 4 m. irom | 
Pelmaduila, on the road to j 
Rakwana, the centre of a fine 
rubber-growing District. | 

44 m. PusseUa (R.H ), the road | 
crosses the Kuruwiti River near the j 


village of Eknehgoda — in which is 
situated the picturesque walawa 
of Eknehgoda Dissawe, a great 
Sinhalese chief and landholder — 
and reaches 

56 m. Ratnapura (R.H. a 
considerable town, the capital of 
the province of Sabaragamuwa, 
with a rainfall of fuUy 150 in. 
Ratnapura is situated in the midst 
of the most exquisite scenery, and 
the views from the summit of the 
fort, the bridge, and the circular 
road are especially recommended. 
A ride of a few miles up the bridle- 
path leading from the bridge to 
Gill male will amply repay the 
trouble, reveahng as it does the 
magnificent mountain- wall which 
rises all but perpendicularly to the 
N. to the height of many thousand 
feet It is from Ratnapura that the 
finest views of Adam's Peak are to 
be obtained. There is a specially 
good one within a few minutes’ walk 
of the R.H. Ratnapura waina 
— jewel) IS the headquarters of 
the gemming industry, and the 
whole country is dotted with pits 
from which gems have been re- 
moved. Sapphires, topazes, and 
cat 's-eyes are those most commonly 
found. The modus operandi is 
simple. A pit ib dug, and when the 
illayi, a peculiar gravel in which the 
gems are usually found, is reached, 
all that is dug up is carefully washed 
and sifted, and the good stones set 
I aside. Genuine stones are certain 
to be found in large quantities, 
but stones of any marketable value 
are more rare, the greater part 
having only a faint shade of colour, 
and being disfigured by flaws. 
Plumbago also is mined for. 

A mile or two W. from Ratna- 
pura is the Maha Saman Dewale, 
one of the richest Buddhist tem- 
ples in Ceylon, and possessed ol 
considerable estates. Some inter- 
esting relics are preserved there, 
but the building itself, though 
picturesque, has no architectural 
interest. In the outer court, built 
into the wall, stands one of the 



RAKWANA 


670 CEYLON : 

very few monuments ol the Portu- 
guese domination remaining in 
Ceylon — a slab representing the 
full'leng^ figure of a Portuguese 
knight in armour killing and 
tramphng upon a prostrate Sin- 
halese. 

Ascent of Adam’s Peak (23 m ) 
(see also Route 2). 

5 m. from I^tnapura is Malwala, 
on the river Kalu Ganga. 

2 m. farther up the river is 
Gilimale, a large village (horses as 
a rule cannot proceed farther). 

5 m. Palabaddala, .4200 ft., 
halting-station of pilgrims. Here 
the path becomes very steep and 
rugged. 

8 m. HeramiUpana, 4400 ft.^^^c 
halting-station at the base of the ! 
peak, 

3 m. farther is the summit of the 
mountain (7420 ft.), where is a 
small permanent room built for 
the accommodation of the resident 
monks. 

Leaving Ratnapura by the 
bridge, and not forgetting to 
notice the beautiful views obtain- 
able from it, the road passes 
through paddy-fields fertihsed bv 
the Batugedam irrigation worki 
and after a drive of 12 m. reaches 

69 m. PelmaduUa (R H.), 
whence a road to the S. leads to 
Rakwana, the chief village of a 
rising tea-district. The views on 
tills road are some of the most 
beautiful in Ceylon. 

From Rakwana an interesting 
trip may be made Southwards to 
Hambantota in the Southern pro- 
vince. It is a riding road only, 
though practicable for bullock- 
carts in most places. As far as 
Maduanwela the scenery is very 
pretty. At Maduanivela is a very 
interesting specimen, the only 
one known to the writer of this 
description, of the ancient walawas 


of the Kandyan Chiefs, it con- 
sists of several small courts built 
on a sort of Pompeiian plan, the 
smali.rooms looking into the court, 
which, as at Pompeii, is in every 
case furnished with an impluvium. 
There is a small private chapel 
(Buddhist), and the massive outer 
door, made of one huge piece of 
wood, is marked by bullets and 
other traces of resistance to assail 
ants in older times. Within is 
displayed the silver staff shaped 
like a crozier, the badge of office 
of one of the ancestors of the 
family, who was chief Adigar or 
Prime Minister of the King of 
Kandy. Afterwards the track 
leads chiefly through thick forest 
and jungle, attractive to the 
sportsman as being a great resort 
for elephants and deer. After 
passing the irrigation works on 
the Walawe River, the main road 
between Galle and Hambantota 
is joined at Ambalantota (see 
P- 675)^ 

The woods about PelmaduUa, 
at the proper season, are bright 
with the splendid blooms of the 
Dendrohhim Maccarthii. 

85 m. Balangoda (R.H.). No- 
thing can exceed the beauty and 
variety of the scenery along the 
whole road from Ratnapura to 
this place. It is entirely free from 
that monotony which sometimes 
renders the most luxuriant tropical 
scenery oppressive and wearisome. 

97 m. Belihuloya. There is a 
good R.H, here, romantically situ- 
ated on the edge of a rushing 
mountain stream. From this spot 
an ascent can be made to the Hor- 
1 ton Plains (see Route 2). The road 
leads into coffee- and tea-estates, 
whence the whole of the wood has 
been cleared, and the bare hillsides 
now lack all trace of their original 
beauty. But the crops are fine, 
and coffee has not in this part of 
Ceylon been so wholly extermin- 
ated as elsewhere by leaf disease. 
Ever since leaving PelmaduUa the 



RDUT.C 4. COLOMBO TO RATNAPURA 


671 


load, tiiougli vaned by occasional 
descents, has been rising, and by 
the time it has reached 


105 m. Halduiiiinulla (R H.) it | 
has gained a very considerable ' 
elevation, from which a truly mag- 
nificent view is obtained over all 
that part of the island lying 
between Haldummulla and the sea 
to the S. With few exceptions, 
the eye seems to range over an un- 
broken extent of forest, the rivers, 
villages, and tracts of cultivation 
being for the most part concealed 
by the trees surrounding them. 

From Haldummulla the travel- 
ler may proceed to Koslande 
(R.H.), thence, passing the very 
fine Dlyaluma Water! all en route, 
to Wellawaya (R.H ) . Tellula, some 
10 m. to the S., is the nearest point 
possible for shooting headquarters 

A very steep road of about 
8 m. ascends to the top of the 
pass at Haputale (R.H.), on the 
railway line, at an elevation orf 
4765 ft. The view hence is even 
grander than that from Haldum- 
mulla, but from partaking of a 
greater extent of the nature of a 
bird^s-eye view, it is less pictur- 
esque. By road or rail the travel- 
ler proceeds to 


120 m. Bandarawella (R.H. 3^) 
(p. 666 ), which is said to enjoy the 
best and most equable climate in 
Ceylon, It has a hotel, and there 
are a number of private bungalows 
to let. A railway is now under 
construction from Bandarawella 
to Badulla (R.H.), passing jn 
route Ella (R.H.) with a very fine 
view. Between Haputale and 
Bandarawella on the railway Hes 
Biyatalawa, where some 4000 
Boer prisoners were located in the 
Boer war. It is now used as n 
sanatorium for the East Indies 
Naval Squadron and for the troops 
in Ceylon. 


ROUTE 4. 

COLOMBO TO RATNAPURA via 
Panadura and Nambapane. 

(Rail and road.) 

This is an alternative route to 
Ratnapura, but somewhat longer. 
It passes through very pretty 
country, and those who go no 
farther than Ratnapura are 
strongly recommended to go by 
one and return by the other of 
these routes. 

The traveller proceeds as far as 
Panadura by the Southern Rail- 
way from Colombo (see Route 5), 
and thence proceeds by coach or 
private conveyance. 

A few miles after quitting Pana- 
dura he crosses the Bolgoda lake 
by a bridge, and at 

10 m. reaches Horana. The 
R.H. here is built among the 
remains of an ancient Buddhist 
monastery, and on the opposite 
side of the road is the large and 
handsome Buddhist temple. It 
contains a bronze candlestick 
worthy of notice. It is about 
8 ft. high, and of remarkably fine 
workmanship, 

28 m. Nambapane (R.H.), 
prettily situated. The road here 
approaches the Kalu Ganga River, 
along the bank of which it passes 
as far as the Kuruwiti River, which 
it crosses. The road now keeps 
at a greater distance from the 
river, though it follows its general 
course till it reaches 

42 m. Ratnapura (R.H.^) (see 
p. 669). Shortly before arriving 
at Ratnapura the Maha Sanvtn 
Bewale is passed (see p. "669). 
The whole road is extremely 



CEYLON : MOUNT LAVIMA 


672 


beauufal, and cannot fail, if the j 
day be fine, to give pleasure to | 
those passing along it. Fine . 
views of Adam s Peak and the 1 
other principal points of the | 
Central jMountains are to be ob- j 
tained on this route j 


ROUTE 5. 

COLOMBO TO GALLE, MATARA, 
Hambantota, and Tissamaharama. 

(Rail to Matara ; thence special conveyance. 

Beyond Kirinde ride.) 

dhe journey is worth making, 
at all events ' so far as Galle or 
Matara, for the sake of the coast | 
scenery. As far as IMatara it can , 
be performed by rail, but it is j 
unnecessary to say that much is | 
lost by adopting this mode of [ 
travelling. The first six stations 
— namely, the Pettah, the Fort, 
Slave Island (the drive from Galle 
Face Hotel to this station is about 
i m.), Kollupitiya, Bambalapitya, | 
and Wellawatta, are all in the [ 
suburbs of Colombo I 

! 

At 7 m. Mount Laviuia station i 
is the Grand Hotel, which was 
built by Sir E. Barnes, when ! 
Governor, as his Marine Villa. It i 
stands on a rocky eminence close 
to the station. It is a very ' 
favourite place to stay at, and ! 
has first - rate accommodation, I 
The Colombo Fort station is the 
most convenient starting-place for 
a run by train out to Mount 
Lavinia. 

171^ m. Moratuwa station is a 
very flourishing place. It is justly 
celebrated for its wood-carving. 


21 m. Panadura starion (R.H.), 
a flourishing village prettily situ- 
ated on a narrow inlet of the sea 
(see Route 4). 

26 m. Kalutara station (R.H ★) 
IS approached by a fine iron bridge 
over the Kahi Ganga. It is over 
1200 ft. long, being composed of 
twelve spans of 100 ft. each. 
Kalutara is a large place, with a 
great air of cheerfulness and 
comfort. The R.H. is a good 
starting-point for the excursions 
which may be made over excellent 
roads into the very pretty country 
to the E, of the town. There is 
an interesting Buddhist temple on 
the N. side of the river. Snipe 
and whistling teal are plentiful 
from Novxmber to February The 
hog-deer {Cervus porcinus), not 
found anywhere else in Ceylon, is 
said to have been introduced into 
the Kalutara District by the Dutch 
from its home in the Ganges Delta. 

The Mangosteen grows well in 
Kalutara. Its fruit, at once pleas- 
ing to the eye and delicious to the 
palate, is recommended ip the 
attention of the traveller. The 
neighbourhood is now most cele- 
brated as the locality where Para 
Rubber is most successfully grown 
in Ceylon. 

Plumbago, or graphite, is largely 
mined for in the Kalutara District. 

41 m. Eentota station (R.H. very 
good) was at one time the railway 
terminus, and from thence the 
journey to Galle had to be made 
by road. The drive is charming, 
always near and generally within 
bight of the sea, and passing under 
an uninterrupted grove of coco- 
nut and other trees. The district 
is extremely populous, and the 
traveller is rarely, if ever, out of 
sight of a house or two, while 
\illages of greater or less size are 
of constant occurrence. Bentota 
IS celebrated for its edible oysters. 

54 m. Amfialangoda station 
serves a large and rapidly increas- 



ROUTE 5 COLOMBO TO GALLE 673 


ing village The R.H. (very good) 
is close to the sea, and has a good 
bathing - place among the rocks 
below it. 

61 m. Hikkaduwa station. 

65 m. Dodanduwa station. 
There is a fine Buddhist temple 
here in a somewhat unusual posi- 
tion, approached by a long, narrow, 
and steep flight of stone stairs. 

72 m. GALLE station ^ was the 
principal port of call for vessels 
between Aden and the far East, 
before the completion of the break - 
water at Colombo. The harbour 
at Galle is very small and not very 
safe in rough weather. The en- 
trance is so narrow as to be hardly 
visible until very near. The Light- 
house is about 60 ft. high. To the j 
E. there is a hill 2170 ft. high called 
the Haycock, and in the distance 
to the E.N.E, Adam’s Peak, 
7420 ft. high, is often seen. The 
Haycock is known in Sinhalese as 
“ Hinidum Kanda.” It is about 

m. from the Rest House at 
Hiniduma. There is a winding 
path by which the summit of the 
hill can be approached The 
landing-place at Galle is on the N. 
side of the harbour. The deep 
water comes close into the shore. 
All Saints* Church is about a 
furlong from the landing-place. 

It is a handsome stone building of 
pointed, architecture, and can seat 
500 persons. The ramparts of the 
old fort form a charming promen- 
ade towards the sea. The popu- 
lation of the town, according to 
the last census, is 40,000. The 
harbour is entered yearly by some 
164 steamers, with a tonnage of 
359,495 tons. 

The place is hardly mentioned 
in the native chronicles before 
1267. Ibn Batuta, in the middle 
of the 14th century, calls it a small 
town. It was not till the Portu- 
guese occupation that it rose to 
importance. When the Dutch 
succeeded the Portuguese they 


! greatly strengthened the fortifica- 
i tions. which had been vigorously 
I defended against their Admiral, 

I Kosten. The magnificent old 
I Dptch fort, which encloses the 
older part of the town, is in almost 
perfect preservation. In the mar- 
riage treaty of the Infanta of 
Portugal with Charles II. of Eng- 
land it was agreed that if the 
Portuguese recovered Ceylon they 
were to hand over Galle to the 
English, but they never did 
recover it. 

The name of Galle is from the 
Sinhalese galla, a rock ; but the 
Portuguese and Dutch settlers 
derived it * from the Latin gallus, 
a cock, and carved an image of a 
j cock on the front of the old Gov- 
; ernment House, now occupied by 
[ an European firm, \vhich dated 
j from 1687. The present Govern- 
ment House is the Residency," 
which is about J m. frOm the 
fort. I'he oldest Presbyterian 
church and cemetery in Galle 
bear the date 1796 The en- 
virons of Galle are charming, 
and a number of pleasant and 
interesting excursions may be 
made among them The scenery 
is always delightful, and there 
are many old and curious Budd- 
hist monasteries to be explored. 
Buddhism is here §een in its best 
aspect. The monks are far more 
austere ^and more intelligent than 
in the Kandyan provinces, and the 
religion seems to exercise a greater 
influence over the lives of the 
people, 

Akmeemana is about 5^ m. from 
the fort. It is known as " Gaba- 
dagama " (granary) of the Galle 
Four Gravets. Paddy growing is 
very systematically carried on. 

At one time there was a sitting 
Magistrate here ; he is said to 
have held Court at the old R.H. 
premises. There is at present a 
Gansabhawa. The head works of 
the Galle water supply are about 2|- 
m . from the Gansabhawa. They are 
known as “ Hiyare Waterworks." 



CEVLON ; MATARA 


674 

Wackwella is about 5 m. from 
the fort. There is a fair R H. 
oQ the banks of the Ginganga. 
Tourists frequent this place for 
angling and snipe shooting. 

The Pettah is a busy centre of 
native traders about J m. from 
the fort. There is an orphanage 
for girls known as “ Buona Vista '' 
in Unawatuna, in Talpe Pattu 

There is a fine Catholic cathe- 
dral on Mount Calvary Hill at 
Kaluwella, known as St Mary's. 

91 m. Weligama station (R.H.), 
a populous and thriving village, 
beautifully situated on the lovely 
little bay of the same name. Half 
a mile before entering the village, 
on the right hand side of the high 
road from Galle, is a remarkable 
rock-cut colossal statue of a Sin- 
halese king m perfect preservation. 
The statue is popularly styled that 
of the Leper King,” but the 
legends attached to it are obscure 
and contradictory. 

The road continues along the 
sea,-shore, through an almost 
uninterrupted grove of coconut 
trees, wluch overshadow a con- 
stant succession of picturesque 
fishing villages. The whole Dis- 
trict is densely populated, and the 
drive one of the most charming 
character. The journey is worth 
making for the sake of the coast 
scenery, especially in the vicinity 
of Tangalla As far as Matara it 
can be performed by rail. The 
best way to see the country is to 
travel by motor along the coast 
road. 

loi m. Hatara station, the 
railway terminus, the birthplace 
of Sir Henry Lawrence, 1806, a 
large and flourishing town of 
about 17,000 inhabitants. The 
Nilwala Ganga is here crossed by a 
fine bridge. Matara itself is a 
particularly pretty and pleasing 
town, and is the residence of many 
of the oldest and richest Sinhalese 


lowland families. In the fort 
there is a R.H. and a handsome 
clock tower. 

At Matara there is a Buddhist 
hermitage called Chula Lauka. 
It is an islet connected with the 
mainland by a causeway, and 
founded as a Buddhist seminary 
by a Siamese Prince Priest. 

A motor -bus is available lor 
travellers along the coast to Ham- 
ban to ta ; a horse coach to Hak- 
raana inland ; and a motor-bus to 
the hill-country in the Deniyaya 
planting District 

104 m. Dondra, a fishing village 
situated on the southernmost 
point of Ceylon There was here 
a stately temple, destroyed by the 
Portuguese, of which few frag- 
ments now remain. There is, 
however, in the modem vihara a 
fine gateway elaborately sculp- 
tured, and about ^ m. to the 
N. is a stone cell in perfect pre- 
servation. On the point itself, 
about I m. to the S. of the road, 
is a magnificent lighthouse, erected 
at great cost in 1889.* 

The villages, though still fre- 
quent, now become fewer in 
number. 

1 14 m. Dikwella (R.H. good). 
About I m, inland is the Wewru- 
kannala temple, a shrine greatly 
revered, where a remarkable num- 
ber of statues and tableaux have 
recently been placed. The temple 
is very interesting as showing the 
modem tendency of popular Bud- 
dhist religious art. 

122 m. Tangalla, a pretty town 
with a remarkably good R.H. 
close to the sea. Tangalla is a 
great place for catching turtles. 

N. of Tangalla are the extensive 
irrigation works of the Kirama 
valley and the large tank of 
Udukiriwiia, a few miles to the 
S. of which IS situated one of 
the oldest and most remarkable 
Buddhist monasteries in Ceylon . 
— Mulgirigala, an isolated rock 



ROUTE 5. COLOMBO TO 

rising abruptly from the plain, 
anti honeycombed with caves 
and temples. 

130 m. Raima (R.H. good) 
About a mile before reaching it 
we see on the S. a picturesque 
Buddhist temple on the summit of 
a high, wooded rock. 

The population now becomes 
far more sparse, and the country 
is covered with scrub Jungle. - 

140 m. Amhalantota (R,H. good), 
a small village on the banks of the 
Walawe Biver, a noble stream here 
shrouded in dense forest, and 
crossed by a long iron bridge. 

10 m. N. of Ambalantota are the 
headworks of the Walawe Irriga- 
tion Scheme. A massive stone 
dam, constructed by Government, 
diverts part of the stream into a 
system ot canals and channels, 
which convey water for agricul- 
tural purposes for many miles on 
the W. bank 01 the river. 

The road now passes through a 
desolate country to 

148 m. Hambantota {R.H ), the 
chief place of an Assistant Agency, 
a small town on a small, open bay. 
Here are the headquarters of the 
District, the Assistant Agent's 
residence, the Kachcheri, Court- 
house, etc. Here, too, is one of 
the two chief salt manufactories 
in Ceylon. A great part of the 
population are Malays. In the 
immediate vicinity of the town are 
sand-hills (which long threatened 
to overwhelm the town, and have, 
in fact, buried several streets), the 
old post-ofhce, and some other 
buildings. Their onward progress 
is now^ checked by the growth of 
a peculiar grass, and by planta- 
tions of the palmyra palm. 

About 20 m. N.E. of Hamban- 
tota is Tissamaharama, one of the 
oldest of the abandoned royal cities 
of Ceylon. Except as a place of 
pilgrimage, the site had been 
wholly abandoned till the re- 


K^RI^'D^ : tissamaharama 675 

s,toration of three tanks by the 
! Ceylon Government. From these 
mnks nearly six thousand acres 
are now cultivated in paddy, and 
i both population and the area 
I under cultivation are annually 
increasing. The ruins are of great 
I antiquity and interest. One of 
' the oldest and largest of the 
I dagobas, over 150 ft. high, whicli 
i was in a very ruinous condition, 

1 has been entirely restored by the 
unassisted labour of the Buddhist 
population. There are several 
other very large dagobas, mostly 
in ruins, and some smaller ones 
in fair condition. The remains of 
( large buildings are numerous, and 
! the ruins of what is styled the 
I King’s palace, but is more prob- 
! ably the lower storey of a many- 
j storeyed monastery like the Bruzen 
j Palace at Anuradhapura (p. 681), 
i are worthy of notice. They con- 
' sist of rows of huge monoUthic 
I columns, much larger than any at 
! Anuradhapura or Polonnaruwa. 
j Ruins are everywhere scattered 
j through the dense forest, and 
j excavations here would probably 
! be better repaid than at any other 
i spot in Ceylon. 

There are two ways of reaching 
Tissamaharama from Hamban- 
tota — 

(1) The easiest route is that 
by the high-road to Badulla. On 
leaving Hambantota the great 
lewayas, or natural salt - pans, 
whence great amounts of salt, a 
Government monopoly, are annu- 
ally taken, are passed. When the 
salt has formed in them they 
present the appearance of frozen 
lakes covered with snow of 
dazzhng whiteness, 

15 m. Wirawila (R.H.). The 
high-road is here left, and about 
5 m. of metalled road conduct the 
traveller to the R.H. above the 
tank. 

(2) A more interesting, but 
from Bundala (12 m.) onwards a 
difficult, route is along the coast 
21 ra. to Kirinde, a small port of 



CEYLON : NTGOMBO 


676 

picturesque appearance. There is 
a road thence to Tissamaharama, 
about 8 m. in length, which passes 
many remains of antiquity. 

6 m beyond Kirinde, along the 
coast, is Palutupane, an excellent 
centre for shooting excursions, as 
elephants, wild buffaloes, bears, 
leopards, deer, and peacocks 
abound in the wild and unpeopled 
forests and plains around it. 
There are also antiquarian remains 
of considerable interest scattered 
through the jungle. 

From Palutupane there is a 
track, good for horses and gener- 
ally passable for a rough bullock- 
cart, to Batticaloa (130 m.) {see 
p. bby). The forest scenery on the 
Yala Rivey is very beautiful, and 
the - whole route presents great 
attractions to the sportsman. 


ROUTE 6. 

COLOMBO TO TRINCOMALEE by 

Negombo, Puttalam and Anurad- 

hapura. 

(Railway to Chilaw ; motor-coach service 
from Chiiaw to Puttalam : thence by 
special conveyance.) 

The railway to Chilaw having 
been opened, the former coach and 
steamboat services from Colombo 
have been discontinued. 

13 m. Jaela (R.H.). 

23 m. Negombo (R.H. ^), a 
thriving town (population 20,000), 
picturesquely and singularly situ- 
ated among lagoons and canals — a 
true Dutch settlement. There is 
a picturesque Dutch gateway, 
which “ improvers " have, hap- 
pily, as yet failed to remove, and 
a banyan tree of magnificent 


dimensions. The brass work of 
Negombo is celebrated ; also its 
prawns. The w’hole District be- 
tween Colombo and Negombo is 
densely inhabited. The innumer- 
able villages are scattered through 
coconut groves, cinnamon gar- 
dens, and groves of jack - fruit. 
The artist and the photographer 
can find at every corner of the 
countless roads and lanes an in- 
exhaustible variety of vignettes 
of striking beauty. Leaving 
Negombo, the road crosses the 
Maha Oya by a fine bridge, 
about 400 ft. in length, and pro- 
ceeds through luxuriant coconut 
groves and tobacco plantations to 

36 m. Maravila (R.H. ^), 
m. from Nattamliya station : a 
village rapidly increasing in size 
and importance. Near it is an 
enormous and very costly Roman 
Catholic church. One of the 
most striking features on this 
route is the number and size of 
the Roman Catholic churches, 
erected for the most part by the 
people of the fishing villages along 
the coast, who almost all profess 
that religion. 

41 m. Tinnipitiyawewa tank, 
one of the most successful irriga- 
tion restorations of the Ceylon 
Government, is passed (right). 

48 m. Chilaw (R.H. good), 
another large town with a Dis- 
trict Court. It IS the present 
terminus of the railw^ay. Here 
again is another huge Roman 
Catholic church. A large Hindu 
temple at Muniseram, in the 
neighbourhood, is worth a visit. 
There is a road from Chikw 
to Kurunegala (p. 678) passing 
Dandagamuwa, where there is a 
picturesque temple. 4 m. beyond 
Chilaw the great river Deduru 
Oya is passed by an iron bridge. 
A good road, through a sandy 
and umnteresting country, which, 
however, is being rapidly covered 




[Jss^i^e^^aA 


illl 





ROUTE 6. COLOMBO TO TRINCOMALEE : PUTTALAM 


with thriving coconut planta- 
tions, leads to 


59 m. Battahi Oya (R.H. fair), 
another large river, crossed by an 
iron bridge, and then continues its 
way through country of a similar 
character to 


So m. Puttalam (R.H. good), a 
considerable place, the headquar- 
ters of an Assistant Government 
Agent. What gives Puttalam its 
importance is the existence of the 
largest salt-pans in Ceylon. The 
island is mainly supplied with salt 
from this place or Hambantota | 
The process of manufacture and 
the salt - pans are well worth 
seeing if the visit to Puttalam is 
made at the right season, i.e., 
from June to September. Salt is 
a Government monopoly. It is 
manufactured here and at Ham- 
bantota, and thence retailed 
throughout the island. On the 
tongue of land which hes between 
Puttalam Lake and the sea is 
St Anna's Roman Cathohc Church. 
On the Saints' festival, about 
29th July, enormous crowds go 
thither on pilgrimage — all sorts 
and conditions of people — Bud- 
dhists, Muhammadans, Hindus, as 
well as Roman Cathohcs and other 
Christian sects ; a regular town of 
palm huts is formed for their 
accommodation. 

A canal connects Puttalam with 
Negombo and Colombo. It is 
much used for the transport of salt 
and copra. 

Another road leads from Putta- 
lam along the coast to Manaar ; 
it runs through very wild country , 
and is not much used, being tor the 
greater part of the distance a 
natural track through the jungle. 

The road after leaving Putta- 
lam strikes inland, and proceeds 
through a thinly populated jungle 
district. There are no Rest 
Houses this side of Anuradhapura 
nor any villages where supplies can 


677 

be obtained. The road, however, 
is good and often used by motors. 


At 103 m. Kala Oya, there is an 
unfurnished Circuit Bungalow of 
the P.W.D. The Kala Oya River 
is here crossed by a bridge 55 ft. 
above the ordinary level of the 
stream, which was, nevertheless, 
carried away by a flood m 1885. 


127 m. Anuradhapura (Hotel! 
{see p- 681). Here the railway is 
joined (see Routes 7 and 8). The 
road from Anuradhapura to Trin- 
comalee passes through 


135 m. Mihintale (R.H.) (see 
p. 684). After leaving Mihintale 
the road (constructed t8S6) passes 
through a thinly inhabited coun- 
try, the villages, vuth their tanks 
and cultivation, being sparsely 
scattered through the forest. 


160 m. Horowapotane (R.H.). 
A large tank and \’illage. 


177 m. Pankulam (R.H.). A 
few miles beyond Pankulam, on 
the right of the road, and half a 
mile from it, are the remarkable 
hot springs of Chimpiddi (Kan- 
hiya). They are nine in number, 
but, though of different tempera- 
tures, nse close together in one 
ancient stone basin. They are 
considered equally sacred by 
Buddhists, Hindus, and Muham- 
madans, and the rains of a dagoba , 
a temple of Vishnu, and a mosque 
stand together in the immediate 
vicinity. 


192 m. Triucomalee (see p. 688). 



678 


CEYLON: KLTRUNLGALA 


ROUTE 7. 

COLOMBO TO KANKESANTUKAI 

via Polgahawela, Kurunegala, 

Anuradhapura, and Jaffna. 

(Rail, 256^ ni. , opened iqo4'5.) 

The road from Colombo to Anu- 
radhapura (i6im.),z;h? Kegalleand 
Kandy, is preferable to the shorter 
road (129 m.) from Colombo via 
Kurunegala to Anuradhapura. 

The route from Colombo to 

45 m. Polgahawela junction 
(R.H.) is described in Route i. 

58^- m. Kurunegala (R.H.), the 
chief town of the North-Western 
Province, is situated at the back 
of a chain of rocks, which from 
their fancied resemblance to ani- 
mal forms bear such names as 
Etagala, or Elephant Rock, Ibha- 
gala, or Tortoise Rock, Audagala, or 
Eel Rock, etc. Kurunegala town 
itself is situated at the foot of 
Etagala — an enormous black 
boulder over 1000 ft. in height, 
resembling the head and shoulders 
of an elephant. From the top of 
this rock a noble view is obtained 
At its foot is an artificial lake. 12 
m. N.E. of Kurunegala is the Ridi 
(or silver) Vihare, a very ancient 
Buddhist monastery, most pictur- 
esquely situated at a considerable 
elevation. It contains a large and 
rare collection of ancient ola (palm- 
•leaf) volumes of the Buddhist 
ScripturCvS. Some of the door.s ol 
the temple are carved and inlaid 
in ivory. 

I'Vom Kurunegala there are good 


roads S.W. to Negorabo and X.W. 
to Puttalam (see Route 6). The 
road from Kurunegala to Negom- 
bo, passing through Narammala 
(R.H.) Dambadeniya, Giriulla and 
Wehhinda is very pleasing from its 
varying character and constant 
suceession of voodlands. paddy- 
nelds and coconut groves. At 
Dambadeniya, 19 m. from Kurune- 
gala, is a large and famous temple, 
close to which is a high, apparently 
inaccessible isolated rock, on which, 
according to tradition, prisoners 
were confined. The steps cut in 
the rock are, according to tradi- 
tion, the work of a prisoner who 
attempted to escape. 

13 m. from Kurunegala, on the 
road to Puttalam is Wariyapola 
(R.H.) 3 m. beyond this the road 

branches off to Anuradhapura, and 
10 m. beyond to Balalle (R.H.) 
and 4 m. off a cross-road to Anur- 
adhapura is Yapahuwa ( = the ex- 
cellent mountain), one of the most 
picturesque and curious of the 
remains of antiquity in Ceylon. 
It was at one time the abode of 
the sacred tooth in a Dalada 
awa (tooth-temple) ; hence the 
tooth-relic was carried off to India, 
and recovered by Parakrama Bahu 
III. in 1288 A.D. The ruins, pos- 
sibly of a royal palace, standing at 
the head of a great flight of steps, 
are quite unique ; the decorative 
sculptures of animals and human 
figures are particularly fine. Its 
tracened windows, one of which is 
in the jMuseum at Colombo, are 
especially curious. Yapahuwa is 
also accessible by the railway, as 
it is only 3 m. from the Maho rail- 
way station on the Northern line. 


14 m. from Balalle and g8:| m. 
from (Colombo is Galgomu wa (R.H.) . 
Near here 102 elephants were 
• driven into a kraal, but only 45 of 
these were finally noosed, in 1902. 
The kraal held in rqio near the 
same place was not so successful. 



Route 8. kakdy to dambool : matale 


92 J m. Ambanpola. 

126J m. Anuradliapura station 
(Hotel) (see Route 8). The coun- 
try onwards to Kankesanturai is 
described in Route 8. 

142^ m. Madawachchiya station 
(R.H.).^ See p. 684. The R.H. 
is 2| m. from the station. 

157J m. Vavuniya-vilanktilam 
station (R.H.) ^ (see p. 685). 

185J m. Mankulam station 

(R.H.). 

222 m. Pallai station (R.H.). 
245^ m. Jaffna (R.H.) (see 

p. 686). 

256^ m. Kankesanturai station 
(R.H.). ★ 


ROUTE 8. 

KANDY TO JAFFNA by Anuradba- 
pura. 

(To Matale by rail ; thence by road far ■ 
Anuradhapura, where the main railway i 
line from Colombo to Jaffna ii> joined . or I 
by private conveyance all the way ^roin | 
Kandy to Anuradhapura.) 

The railway, which crosses the . 
Mahaweli-ganga by a fine bridge 1 
on leaving Kandv, takes us to ; 

i 

16 m. Matale terminus station j 
(R.H. good), a large and flourish- 1 
ing village beautifully situated ; I 
a great cattle centre, it has one of 
the largest bazars in the province ; 
Tea and cacao plantations, to- | 
gether with coconut and other 1 
palm - trees, and paddy-fields,^ ! 
mixed with indigenous scrub and* 1 


patches of jungle, form a pleasing 
panorama. The ground is well 
broken and beautifully varied 
with -wood and cultivation. About 
a couple of miles out of Matale, 
only a few hundred yards from 
the roadside, is the Vemarkabfe 
Buddhist temple of Alu Vthare, 
which it is well worth stopping 
for a few minutes to visit. Huge 
masses of granite rock have, at 
some remote period, fallen from 
the mountains overhanging the 
valley. In the fissures of these 
boulders, at a considerable height 
above the road, the monastery 
has been constructed. It is diffi- 
cult to imagine a site more pic- 
turesque or more theatrical. 

30 m. Nalande. The R.H. 4c 
is prettily situated under fine 
trees. A steep descent leads to a 
bridge, a path from which, of 
about I m. to the E., conducts the 
traveller to the ruins of a Hindu 
temple beautifully situated. The 
road for the first 5 m. after leaving 
Nalande is very pleasing, passing 
through fine open woods, among 
the trees of which peeps of bare, 
rocky mountains and a rushing 
stream are obtained. Nalande 
was at one time the residence, not 
the capital, of Parakrama the Great, 
who built a fortress there. At 
Naula a road to the W. leads to 
Elahera, the headworks of an an- 
cient irrigation system of colossal 
vlimensions. 

45 m. Dambool (DambuUa) 
*(R.H. 4 c). a convenient half-way 
house by the road between Kandv 
and Anuradhapura : a sort of mail- 
coach runs from Matale to Dam- 
bool : it is a large village imme- 
diately under the huge black rock 
in wluch IS situated the Cave 
Temple that makes this place 
famous, but which presents no 
great attraction to those who 
have seen the cave temples of 
India. At the same time Sir 
Emerson Tennent says of it : 
From its antiquity, its magni- 



68o 


CEYLON : SIGIRIYA 


tude, and the richness of its I 
decoration, it is by far the most 
renowned in Ceylon." There is a 
fine view from the top of the rock. 
The temple has large landed > 
^lossessions in the neighbourhood. 
There are five temples m all : they 
display a mixture of Hmduism and 
Buddhism : one has a recumbent 
statue of Buddha, 47 ft. long (see 
jVlitton, pp. 42-45). 


10 m. or 12 m. from Dambool is 
Sigiriya (R.H.), which is well worth 
a visit. The R.H. keeper at 
* Dambool will afiord all informa- 
tion and make the necessary | 
arrangements- It is best to go 
overnight to Sigiriya and ascend the 
rock early in the morning, return- 
ing the same morning or that j 
afternoon to Dambool. Sigiriya is a | 
rock fortress to which the parricide 
Iving Kasyapa retired (to avoid Ins 
brother Moggallana's vengeance) 
in the 5th century, after obtaining 
the throne of Ceylon by the murder 
of his father, Dhatu Sena, Here 
he built his palace and reigned iS 
years from 477, or 51 1 a.d. This 
extraordinary" natural stronghold 
is situated in the heart of the great 
central forest, above which it rises 
abruptly, like the Bass Rock, out 
of the sea. There are but few 
traces of the hand of man remain- 
ing upon the rock, except some 
galleries on the N.W. side and 
some frescoes high up in a cavitv 
near its summit — ^accessible by the 
aid of some iron ladders and steps 
cut in the rock. Copies may be 
seen in the Museum at Colombo 
(see p. 656). The Palace, the site 
of which is just traceable on the 
N.W. side, and the rock itself, are 
supposed to have been surrounded 
by a fosse ; a tank still exists on 
S \\ . side. The Lion Staircase 
House, the granite throne, the 
Audience Hall, and the dagoba (| 
m. from the rock, but close to 
road) should also be seen, 
^ve's Ruined Cities of Ceylon, 
Burrows’ Buried Cities of Ceylon, 


Mitton’s The Lost Cities of Cevlon, 
chap, xi., and BelTs Admimsiva^ 
Hon Reports should be studied. 

3 m. after leaving Dambool the 
M'trisgom Oya is crossed by a very 
high bridge. Immediately after 
passing it the road divides. The 
road straight on leads N.E. to 
Trincomalee (see Route 9) ; 4 m. 
along this road, on the right, just 
opposite to a Public Works bar- 
racks, or " lines," is the turn off to 
Sigiri\"a ; the branch turning to the 
left, N., is that for Anuradhapura 
and Jaffna, and passes over an 
undulating park-hke country, and 
I past many newly-restored irriga- 
tion works to 

58 m. Kekerawa (R.H. ^). 

From Kekerawa an expedition 
should be made, 8 m. by good 
carnage-road, to the Great Tank 
of Kalawewa, ^ This magnificent 
sheet of water, with an area of 
•ibout 7 sq. m., was originally 
lormed by Kng Dhatu Sena about 
460 A.D., who built a bund 6 m. 
long, 60 ft. high, and 20 ft. broad 
on the top. This bund retains the 
waters of two rivers, and forms a 
lake which even now, when the 
spill only reaches a height of 25 ft,, 
has a contour of nearly 40 m. A 
great canal from one of the sluices 
of this tank cames water to Anur- 
adhapura, a distance of 52 m., and 
supplies over 100 village tanks 
in its course. A few miles of the 
canal at the end nearest Anur- 
adhapura were restored by Sir 
William Gregory more than 40 years 
ago, but the tnnk itself and the 
remainder of the canal remained 
in ruin, as they had been for many 
centuries, till 1884, when the 
Ceylon Government decided to 
restore them. The work was 
completed at the end of 1887. 
The bungalow of the engineer in 
charge commands a fine view over 
the lake. The ancient spill, 260 ft. 
^ long, 200 ft. wide, and 40 ft. high, 
is still in perfect preservation. 



ROUTE 8. KANDY TO ANURADHAPURA 


the tank having been destroyed, 
not by any failure of the spill, but 
by an enormous breach on one 
side of it — now covered by the 
new spill wall, a fine structure 
nearly looo ft. in length, which 
reflects much credit on its designer 
and builder, IVIr W. Wrightson, of 
the Ceylon Public W.orks Depart- 
ment. 2 m. W. of Kalawewa is 
the Aukuna Vihara, an ancient 
^monastery in a wild and secluded 
situation, where is an enormous 
rock - cut standing statue of 
Buddha, 40 ft. high. The statue 
stands almost entirely free of the ; 
rock from which it is carved, and ; 
the right arm is raised and free 
from the body of the statue. At | 
the foot of the bund are ruins of 
the very ancient city of Vijtapura, 
sometimes, but doubtiuliy, identi- 
fied with Wijito*. 

The road from Kekerawa passes | 
for the most part through mono- j 
tonous and uninteresting forest to I 

70 m. Tirapane (R.H.). 4 m. ■ 

farther, at Galkulama, there is a i 
division in the road. The branch ! 
leading due N. is the direct road | 
to JaSna through Mihintale ; that 1 
to the N.W. proceeds in nearly a ! 
straight hne to ' 

84 m. Anuradhapura (Hotel ^ 
good %) (127 m. from Colombo , 
by rail). ‘‘ The buned city | 
of Ceylon,” famous throughout 
the East for its ancient and | 
extremely interesting ruins— -the 
relics of a civilisation that existed 
more than 2000 years ago, when | 
the city was the capital of a ; 
succession of ancient kings ; the 1 
city walls, the exact boundaries, j 
and the royal residences have still ' 
to be discovered. The city is said 
to have measured 25b sq. m., j 
i6 m. in each direction : rather, it : 
comprised two cities, one within j 
the other. A carriage to visit the | 
ruins could be arranged by the ■ 
manager of the hotel. Services of 
licensed guides to take tourists | 
round the ruins could also be ar- 


681 

ranged on timely apph cation to 
the same manager. Fees due to 
! Guides — whole day, Rs.3 ; six 
hours, Rs.2. a bicycle is most 
useful. The traveller who con- 
templates a thorough examination 
j of the ruins will obtain all necessary 
I information and assistance at the 
j Kachcheri. For such an examina- 
■ tion the companionship of Cave’s 
Ruined Cities of Ceylon, Burrows’ 

: Buned Cities of Ceylon, Still’s 
* Guide to the Ancient Capital of 
Ceylon, Mitton’s host Cities of Cev- 
Jon, chaps, iii— ix, and Bell’s 
Archceological Reports will be 
useful, though the ordinary travel- 
ler will perhaps find the chapter 
on Ceylon in Fer^sson’s Eastern 
Architecture sufficient for him. A 
certain number of the rums lie 
within m. distance of the hotel, 
the so-called Brazen Palace and 
the Bo-Tree being close to it on 
the E. side, and the Thuparama 
and Ruanwelli dagobas on the 
N.E. The larger Jetawanarama 
and Abhayagiriya dagobas he 
respectively 2 m. and i m. N. 
and N.E. of the hotel. The ac- 
companying map shows the gen- 
eral disposition of the ruins ; they 
cannot be thoroughly seen in less 
than two days’ time li a visit to 
Mihintale is included. The city of 
Anuradhapura was founded by 
King Pandukabhaya 43 7B c., and 
called after the name of the Con- 
stellation Anuradha. It became 
the capital of Ceylon in the 4th 
century b.c., and attained its 
highest magnificence about the 
commencement of the Christian 
era. It sufiered much during the 
earUer Tamil invasions, and was 
finally deserted as a royal residence 
in the 9th century. A small 
village has always remained on 
the site, but it is only since the 
constitution of the North Central 
Province, in 1872, by Sir \V. 
Gregory, that any revival has 
taken place in this much-neglected 
lustnct Since that date hun- 
dreds of village tanks have been 
restored ; famine and the dieadfui 



I. EYLON 


o8> 


disease called parangt (produced , 
by the use of bad water and food) j 
have been driven away, and the j 
population, now 5600, of the 
town of Anuradhapura, is yearly 
becoming more prosperous and 
healthy. The railway which has 
been made is expected to revivify 
this moribund part of the island. 
Steps are being taken to encourage 
the growth of cotton, tobacco, and 
rubber. 

The main objects of interest at 
Anuradhapura may be divided 
into Dagobas, Monastic Buildings, 
and Pokitnas or Tanks (see 
Fergusson’s Eastern Architecture, 

I, 228~2j j, and Mitton's Lost Cities 
of Ceylon, chaps, iii— ixh 

The Moonstones of Ceylon have 
been described as unique : they 
are not the “ milky-blue ” jevrels 
of Ceylon, but are semicircular 
granite stones, placed at the foot 
of a flight of entrance steps, and 
\yonderfully carved in concentric 
rings, containing processions of 
animals and floral scrolls of artistic 
design. Fine specimens are to be 
seen at Anuradhapura and Polon- 
nuwara. 

The eight Sacred Places held by 
the Buddhist Community at Anur- 
adhapura are — The Bo-Tree, 
Brazen Palace, Abhayagiriya, Jet- 
awanarama. Tanka rama, ?\firiswe- 
tiya, Ruanwelh, Thuparama dago- 
bas — the archaeological authorities 
not being responsible for their 
preser\^ation. 


I. Dagohas. — A dagoba is a 
bell-shaped construction erected 
over some reUc of Buddha or a 
disciple {see p ci). It is always 
solid, and is surmounted by " a 
cubical structure called the ti 
w^ch again is surmounted by a 
lofty spire. The number of dago- 
bas in Anuradhapura is countless 
and they vary in size from the 
enormous masses of the four great 


dagobas to tiny objects barely 2 it. 
or 3 ft. in diameter. The four 
chief dagobas are — 

I. The Ruanwelli Dagoba was a 
real dagoba, i e,, relic storehouse, 
commenced by King Dutthaga- 
I mini, completed about 90 b.c. Its 
' diameter is 252 ft., but it does not 
( retain its original altitude, having 
! been much injured by the Tamils in 
different invasions. It is now only 
180 ft. in height. The lower part^ 
of the structure and the platform ' 
on which it stands were cleared 
about the year 1873, and the 
' various fragments of the so-called 
four “ chapels ” facing the cardinal 
j points were put together and 
restored. This dagoba is being 
! restored by the Buddhists. In 
I 1910 and 1911 a large portion 
of the restoration work of this 
dagoba collapsed during the rainy 
season, but the restoration work 
is continued as vigorously as ever. 

2 The Abhayagiriya (Mount of 
Safety), the largest dagoba of 
all, was begun by King Maha- 
sena, 273-292 D , or 302 -x.d. Its 
diameter is 327 ft., and its 
height when perfect was about 270 
ft. It has now lost a great part 
of the pinnacle, and its present 
height is only about 260 ft. It 
stands on a grand paved platform, 
eight acres in extent, raised some 
feet above the surrounding en- 
closure. The enormous mass of 
, bricks in this structure baffles 
j conception. Sir Emerson Ten- 
j nent calculates that they are 
, sufficient to construct a town of 
the size of Ipswich or Coventry, or 
to build a wall 10 ft. high from 
( London to Edinburgh. The ti on 
; the summit having shown symp- 
toms of falling, it and what 
' remaii\ed of the stump of the 
; spire above it have been put into 
a^ thoroughly safe condition bv the 
Ceylon Government but the lower 
part remains untouched. It was 
erected in the ist century b.c. 
The summit can now be easily 
reached, and commands a magni- 
ffcent view. 



ROUTE 8. KANDY TO AXURADHAPURA 


3, The Jetawanarama, built in 
the 4th century a.d,, was of about 
the same dimensions as the 
Abhayaginya. It has been sug- 
gested, with some probability, that 
the names of these two dagobas 
have been transposed, possibly 
from the 12th century The Bud- 
dhist Ataraasthhraa Committee 
allowed a Buddhist monk to make 
“ improvements " on the dagoba ; 
after he had felled all the trees and 
done more harm than good, the 
Archaeological Commissioners took 
over the ruin in 1910, to save it. 
Supposing that Jetawanarama is 
the ancient Abhayagiriya, its 
foundation is dated 88 b.c., and its 
enlargement 1 13-125 a.d. 

4. The Minswetiya was built b\ 
King Dutthagamini in the 2nd 
century b.c., and rebuilt in the 
reign of Kas^^apa V. It is sur- 
rounded by monastery ruins on 
three sides. Though smaller than 
the Jetawanarama, it is remarkable 
for the unusually line sculpture of 
its chapels."' or shrines, of the 
Dhyani Buddhas. It has been 
partly restored at the expense of 
the late King of Siam. 

Among the minor dagobas, the 
Thuparama and Lankarama (both 
described by Mitton), the latter 
surrounded by three and the 
first by four circles of carved 
columns, are among the most 
remarkable and most elegant. 
These columns are a special feature 
of Ceylon dagobas. 

The ruined Dalada Maligawa 
or Temple of the Tooth, should 
not be overlooked. The tooth- 
relic, about 2 inches in length, 
and hke a man's httle finger in 
thickness and shape, is said to 
have been brought to Ceylon by a 
Brahman princess, to have been 
removed for safety when Tamil 
raids occurred, and to have had 
many wanderings until it reached 
Kandy. 

II. The remains of Monastic 
Buildings are to be found in every 
direction in the shape of raised 


68s 

' stone platforms, foundations, and 
j stone pillars. The walls them- 
I selves between the pillars, being 
I of brick, have disappeared. One 
I of the most remarkable of these 
' remains consists of 1600 stone 
I pillars about 12 ft. high and only 
a few feet distant from each other, 
arranged in forty parallel rows. 
These formed the lowest storey of 
the famous nine-store ved Brazen 
Palace/’ or monastery, erected by 
King Dutthagamam 161 b.c., ur 
loi B.C., nine storeys high (reduced 
to seven) as described in the Maha- 
wansa. It may have been the 
nucleus of the Mahavihara, or 
Chief Monastery of the town ; the 
upper storeys were no doubt of 
wood. The clusters of pillars and 
of platforms of pavilions in every 
direction for 10 m. are innumer- 
able. Among the most remark- 
able is one called the Queen’s 
Palace, the semicircular door-step 
of which is carved with a double 
procession of animals and studies 
of flowers. 

III. The Pokunas are bathing- 
tdnk:3, or t^ks for the supply of 
drinking water. They differ from 
irrigation tanks, in being wholly 
constructed of masonrv or of 
cement. These, too, are countless, 
in number, and are to be found 
everywhere through the jungle. 
The finest is the double (Kuttan) 
tank in the outer circular road, 
into which elaborately - carved 
staircases descend. 

But there is one object of inter- 
est in Anuradhapura which does 
not come under these heads, the 
sacred Pipal or Bo-Tree {Ficus 
rehgiosa ) — originally brought from 
Buddh Gaya fpp. 51, 83) — ^and 
though only a fragment now re- 
mains, probably the oldest histori- 
cal tree existing . It was originally 
brought by the sister of Mahinda, 
the Princess Sanghamitta, as a 
branch of the bo-tree under which 
Buddha sat art Buddh Gaya, and 
planted about 240 b c. (also dated 
2SS B.C.). From that time to this 



CEYLON 


6S4 


it has been watched over by an un- 
interrupted succession of guar- 
dians. It stands on a small ter- 
raced mound, and is surrounded 
by a number of descendants. The 
adjacent buildings are all modern, 
but the entrance to the enclosure 
possesses a fine semicircular door- 
step or “ moonstone.” 

Some fine bronze statue^ found 
at Anuradhapura in 190S are now 
in the Colombo Museum. 

Another object of interest not 
to be omitted is the Kock Temple 
at Isurumuniya, carved in the 
sohd rock, with a large seated 
Buddha inside and sculptures in 
low relief on the terraces. 

The large tanks of Nuwara- 
wewa, Tissawewa, and Basawa- 
kulam, the two latter of which are 
filled from Kalawewa, have re- 
stored to the neighbourhood of 
Anuradhapura some of its former 
fertility. 

Other objects of interest at 
Anuradhapura and in the neigh- 
bourhood are — the English Church, 
the Peacock Palace, a#vihara W. of 
Ruanwelli, a mahapali or alms 
Hall, the Selchaitiya dagoba, rock- 
dweUings (galge, etc ) , the so-called 
Elephant Stables (with the guard- 
stone), the King’s Palace, the 
Kuttam ( = twin) Pokuna, the Pan- 
kuliya monastery, Vijayarama, 
Yantragalas {square stones with 
holes), Elala’s tomb, Vessagiriya 
monastery (a town in itself), groups 
of buildings on the Arripu Road, 
the Kiribat dagoba, the Mullegalla 
and Puliyankulam monasteries 

8 m. E. of Anuradhapura is 
Mihintale (R.H.) a centre of Bud- 
dhist pilgnmage. (A motor-coach 
from Anuradhapura to Trmcom- 
alee passes Mihintale, or a convey- 
ance can be obtained at the Hotel) . 
It is a rocky hill crowned ^\^.th a 
large dagoba, and literally covered 
with the remains of temples and 
hermitages. Ancient and pictur- 
esque stairs of many hundred steps 


lead to the summit, whence there is 
a very fine view over the forest 
plain, from which the great dago- 
bas of Anuradhapura stand up like 
the pyramids or natural hills The 
centre of attraction at Mihintale is 
; MaMnda's Bed, the undoubted cell 
I occupied by Mahinda (son ol the 
great King Asoka) the apostle of 
Buddhism in Ceylon, in the reign 
of King Dewanampia Tissa, and 
containing the stone couch on 
which he lay. Beside it is the 
Ambasthala dagoba, erected on the 
traditional spot where King Dew- 
anampia Tissa met the missionary 
Mahinda. On the summit is the 
Mahaseya dagoba An idea pre- 
vails that it is difficult of access. 
This is not so. The view, in itself 
fine, is rendered more so by the 
position from which it is obtained 
between the rocks which overhang 
the “ bed.” 

Mihintale has various objects to 
be visited, such as the Alms Hall, 
the Half-way House, the open-air 
Lion Bath, the stone boats, Giri- 
i bandha dagoba, Naga pokuna. 
j Ambasthala dagoba (where the 
I bones of INIahinda, said to have 
died 259 B.C., are said to he), the 
Mahaseya dagoba, Et vehera 
Kunda, Kaludiya Palace, and the 
Elephant Calf Hill 

On leaving Anuradhapura, tra- 
vellers for the North can either 
go direct by rail to Jafina and 
Kankesanturai or by road as 
below. The road is uninteresting 
all the way to Elephant Pass. The 
stages are as follows : — 

95 m. from Kandy (by direct 
road through ^lihintale) Mada- 
wachchiya (R.H.) (see p. 679). * 

From here a road leads N.W. to 
(47 m.) Manaar (R.H.), passing 
the Giant's Tank and the magnifi- 
cent masonry dam which diverts 
the Aruvi Aru to fill it. From 
Madawaclichiya a railway, 65 m. 
long, runs to Talai Manaar, at 
I the N.W. point of that island. 



KOUTE 8. K\NDy TO CHAV \K \CnCHKia 


68*5 


forming the Ceylon connection 
of the through route with India, 
via Rameswaram and Pamban 
(p. 594). Passengers are con- 
veyed from Talai Manaar to 
(25 m.) Dhanuskodi by a steamer 
of the S.I. Railway. Manaar is a 
dreary spot, commanded by an 
old Dutch fort, and only remark- 
able for the number of the African 
Baobabs, which grow freely there, 
having probably been imported 
by Arabs in the IXRddle Ages. 

Due S. of Manaar, and half 
way between it and Puttalam, is 

ayichchukaddi , the scene of the 
camp for the last Pearl Fishery 
in 1905, when the enormous num- 
ber of 50 millions of oysters was 
fished, and the Government netted 
the sum of Rs. 2, 626, 175 — a record. 
The “ Banks lie mostly in the 
Gulf of Manaar at a depth of 
about 7 fathoms. The Pearl 
Banks of Ceylon have excited the 
cupidity of the nations of all ages 
from the Phoenicians onwards. 
There is a large literature on the 
subject. The enquirer is referred 
to the modern monograph on the 
subject by Mr James Hornell, the 
marine biologist, who has dis- 
covered the true causation of the 
Orient pearl in the body of the 
oyster. The Pearl Banks were 
leased by the Government to a 
London Company for 20 years at 
a rental of Rs. 3 10, 000 per annum, 
but in the year 1912 the Company 
went into liquidation and the 
Government resumed possession. 

Ill m . Vavuniya - vilankulam 
(R.H. %), a small town on the 
edge of a newly-restored tank, 

120 m. Irampaikkulam (R.H., 
now a P.W.D. Bungalow). 

126 m. Puliyankulam (R.H.), 
The road branches off here to 
Mullaittiyu. on N.E. coast. 

MuUaittivu is the headquarters 
of the District. 


132 m. Kanakarayankuiam (R.H. , 
nowj an Irrigation Bungalow) 
to Mankulam (R.H.). 

139 m. Mankulam (R.H., good). 
From here there is a good me tailed 
road to MuUaittivu, on N.E. coast. 

142 m. Panikkankulam (P.W.D. 

Bungalow). 

154 m. Iranamadu (Halting 
Bungalow). 

The scrub gets lower and 
smaller, and the soil poorer and 
sandier, as the tedious straight 
road is followed to 

166 m. Elephant Pass, so named 
because here the herds of elephants 
were in the habit of coming from 
the mainland through the shallow 
water to the peninsula ol Jaffna, 
which is now entered by a long 
causeway crossing the arm of the 
sea which all but divides the 
district of Jahna from the re- 
mainder of Ceylon. 

The R.H. is the old Dutch fort 
at the edge of the water — quaint 
and picturesque. 

174 m. Pallai (R.H., good). 
The railway line from here to 
Jaffna was opened in 1902. The 
region now attained is totally 
different from that between Anur- 
adhapura and Elephant Pass. The 
peninsula of Jaffna is the home of 
a busy, noisy, and closely-packed 
population. Every cultivable acre 
is cultivated, and the garden- 
culture is of beautiful neatness. 
Great quantities of tobacco of a 
very coarse description are grown, 
most of which is exported to 
S. India. The fine road passes 
through a succession of large 
villages as it proceeds. 

187 m. Chavakachchen (R.H. 
good), a large village surrounded 
by groves of the palmyra palm, 
which in this province takes the 
place occupied by the coconut 
palm in the South. 



686 


CEYLON : 

201 m. Jaffna or Jafinapatam | 
(R.H.), a large and flourishing : 
town of 40,000 inhabitants, see of I 
a Roman Catholic bishop, and j 
seat of the Government Agent of j 
the Northern Province. , 

The old Dutch Fort, of consider- , 
able size, is in perfect preserva- 
tion, and is a good specimen of a : 
17th-century fortification. Within j 
it are the K'lng's House {the Gov- | 
ernor’s residence when he visits t 
Jaffna), an old Dutch Church j 
containing cunous tombstones, ! 
the residences of certain officials, I 
and the prison. On the esplanade ' 
between the fort and the city , 
stands a graceful Clock Tower, 
built in 1882. The Dutch ex- 
pelled the Portuguese from Jaffna, 
their last station in Ceylon, in 
1633, The following interesting 
excursions may be made from j 
Jaffna — j 

r. To the Mission Stations j 
at Uodooville, Batticotta, and 1 
Kopay, where thousands of chil- 1 
dren are educated. American i 
jVIission Hospitals at Inuvil and ’ 
Manippay. ; 

2. To Puttoor, where is a very j 
remarkable well of great depth, ' 
which is apparently inexhaustible, j 
and ebbs and flows slightly daily | 

3. To Point Pedro, the Xorthern [ 

port of Jaffna. ! 

There are some interesting | 
Hindu temples at Jaffna and in I 
its vicinity. I 

Jaffna is celebrated for its I 
mangoes, esteemed by some as 
superior to the far-famecL Bombay 
variety. Grapes are also grown. 
Turtles are caught, and b'che-de- 
mer or trepang, a species of sea 
slug, is fished for, and exported 
to China, where it is considered 
a great delicacy. Chunks (the 
shells of a mollusc) are also fished 
for and exported to India, where 
they are highly esteemed. In the 
little Island of Delft, W. of the 
Jaffna Peninsula, ponies used to 
be bred. 

The Jaffna Peninsula roads are 
the best in the island. R.Hs. 


\ 

JAFFNA 

are sufficiently furnished ; visitors 
should write to R.H. keepers. 

Kankesanturai (R.H. ♦) (ii m. 
from Jaffna). The terminus of 
the Northern Railway and a port 
of call for the round-the-island 
steamers (see Route 7). A very 
pretty seaside village ; sea-bath- 
ing. By coast road to Kayts, a 
picturesque port. 


ROUTE 9. 

KANDY TO TBINCOMALEE (with 
excursion to Polonnaruwa). 

Since the construction of the Northern Rail- 
way through Anuradhapura and the 
practical abandonment of Trincomalee, 
no horse or bullock coach runs on this 
road. The traveller must make his own 
arrangements for transport toPoIonnaruwa. 
To Trincomalee a motor (Rs.20 per seat 
ist class, and Rs. 10 per seat and class) 
runs (65 m ) from Anuradhapura. 

As far as Damhool this route is 
the same as Route 8. 

On crossing the bridge over the 
Mtrtsgoni Oya, instead of turning 
left to Anuradhapura and Jaffna 
(Route 8), the road proceeds 
straight on, and passing right the 
road to Siginva (p. 680), continues 
chiefly through dense but poor 
forest, varied by one or two 
villages in the midst of small 
clearings, to 

60 m. (from Kandy) Haharane 
(R.H.). The village, though 
I small, is increasing since the 
restoration of its tank. There is 
a picturesque Buddhist Temple of 
considerable antiquity, in which 
are paintings of better design and 
1 execution than are usually found 
; in such places. From the lofty 
I rock by the tank a singular view 
is obtained over the great sea of 
forest to the N. and E., out of 
which rises with startling abrupt- 
ness the rock pillar of Sigiriya 
(see Route 8). 



ROUTE 9. KAXDY TO TRINCOMALEE : POK^NNARUWA 


From Habarane an extremely 
interesting excursion may be made 
to Poloimaruwa ^ (27 m.), one of 
the ancient and deserted capitals 
of Ceylon. In the Mahawansa it 
is called Pulatthi, or Pulastipura : 
its real name is Topare from the 
adjacent Topawewa. The road 
from Habarane to Polonnarnwa is 
passable for motor-cars- After 
passing for about 15 m. through 
wood so dense that it is seldom the 
eye can penetrate more than a few 
yards on either side of the path, 
Minneri is reached. This magniti- 
cent tank, built by King Maha 
Sena in 275 a.d., %vas restored some 
years ago by the Ceylon Govern- 
ment The reservoir is upwards of 
20 m. in circumference, and no point 
in its margin commands a view of 
its entire expanse. The scenery 
ol this lake is enchanting, and no- 
thing can exceed the beauty both 
in form and colour of the mountain 
ranges to the S. Half-way be- 
tween Minneri and Polonnaruwa is 
the small lake of GiriteUa, also a 
tank restored recently, and highly 
picturesque. On the bund is a 
roomy and comfortable R.H. 
overlooking the lake (charge Rs 6 
or Rs.y a day ; rooms should be 
engaged beforehand). The view i- 
very similar to that from Minneri, 
and is of great beauty. 

Polonnaruwa first became a 
royal residence in 368 a.d., when 
the lake of Topawewa was formed, 
but it did not take rank as the 
capital till the middle of the 
8th century. The principal ruins, 
however, are of a later date, being 
chiefly of the time of Paraxrania 
Bahu, 1164-1197 A D., or 1153- 
1186 A.D., the epic hero and prin- 
cipal name at Polonnaruwa : the 
Mahawansa is full of his prowess. 

It is now wholly deserted, and the 
masses of rum, which are strewed 
for miles around, have to be sought 
in the dense jungle. It seems to 
have been abandoned about the 

1 See Cave, Burrows, and Fergusson’s 
I ndian and Eastern Arc hitfcture, i. 244*9' 
Mitton, chaps, xii-xviii. 


687 

end of the 13th century. The 
ancient sites are all in the care of 
the Government, The following 
are the principal objects of in- 
terest : — 

About I m S. of the R.H. is the 
colossal rock-cut flgure, 1 1 ft. 6 ins. 
m height, formerly held to be a 
btatue of Parakrama Bahu I. 
Later, it has been regarded as, 
unmistakably, a rock-hewm por- 
trait of a revered religious teacher 
from the Indian Continent. A 
cast of it IS to be seen in the Col- 
ombo Museum. To the \V. he the 
ruins of wLat appears to have been 
a strong tower, the probably 
wooden interior ol which is wholly 
gone ; and a little farther in the 
same direction are the royal 
pavihons and bathing-tank, orna- 
mented by much elegant sculpture. 

About I m. to the N. is a 
remarkable group of buildings — 
the popularly named Dalada MaJi- 
gawa, or tooth-shrine, officially 
called Siva Devale, No. i, it is 
really a Hmdu temple of about 
1200 A.D., a fine granite building 
having much elegant ornament 
of quasi-Hindu design, where the 
tooth may have received tempor- 
ary shelter ; the Thuparama, a 
large, massive brick temple, of the 
12th century, Hmdu in design — 
containing images of Buddha — the 
front and Eastern roof have fallen, 
while the mner chamber preserves 
its vault and a tower ; the Wata 
Dage ( = circular rehc - house), a 
curious circular edifice, 58 ft. in 
diameter, on a raised mound, with 
lour carved staircases and a low 
stone terrace with an ornamental 
parapet, once 14 ft. high, of unique 
design ; and the Ata (or Hata) 
Dage ( = house of eight relics), a 
large ruined temple. In the same 
vicinity are the Satmahal Prasada, 
a tower of seven storeys of dimin- 
ishing size ; the Nissanka-lata» 
manda-paya, called the Floral 
Altar, and sometimes, perhaps 



688 


Ceylon: tfincomalee 


wrongly, regarded as a Buddhist 
post and rail enclosure (see 
p. cii) ; and a little farther to 
the E. the Vishnu Dewale, a very I 
Hindu ornamental structure of 
design, in good preservation. 

I m. farther N. is the Rankot | 
Dagoha, called also the Ruanwelle- i 
saye, the Place of Golden Dust, i 
built in the 12th century. It is 1 
200 ft. in height, with a diameter 
of 180 ft. The spire is very per- ; 
feet, even the statues surrounding ' 
the drum being clearly discernible 
Near it, but to the N., is the 
Jetawanarama, a mass of rums, 
of which the principal ruin is 
called Buddha-sima-praBada 5 the 
“ House of the Elder,'* a temple | 
170 ft. long, 70 ft. wide, and 70 ft. ' 
high, at the end of which is a 1 
statue of Buddha once nearly 45 ! 
ft. high, now headless. The Kiri ' 
(= milk-white) dagoba about 100 
ft. high, the chunam coating ot ' 
winch is still very perfect, adjoins ' 
this building - 

Another i m. of jungle has to be i 
traversed to reach the Gal (= i 
Kalugal, or the Black-rock) Vihara, ' 
a spot where are a rock-cut figure i 
of Buddha sitting, a colossal ’ 
statue, 23 ft. high, of Ananda, | 
Buddha's favourite disciple, in a [ 
pose of deep sorrow, and a reclin- 1 
figure of the unconscious , 
Buddha, 46 ft. long, cut out of 1 
the sohd rock. ! 

I m. farther N. again is the ! 
Demala Maha Seya, containing an 1 
upright Buddha, once dver 40 ft. 
high ; a very large building, ! 
highly ornamented, of which ‘ 
the roof and upper part of ! 
the walls have fallen m. The ' 
debris was partially cleared away , 
in 1886, when many interesting ’ 
frescoes were found bn the walls, | 
but these have since to a great ■ 
extent perished from exposure. | 

The dagobas of Polonnaruwa 1 
will not compare with those of i 
Anuradhapura, but the buildings ^ 
of the temples and other struc- I 

tures are in far better preservation. ! 


A huge red lotus grows in great 
profusion in the lake, probably the 
descendant of those cultivated for 
use in the temples and palaces of 
the city. 

Besides the objects mentioned, 
the visitor should also see the 
Lotus Bath (4 m. from the R.H., 
the Potgul Vehera (= Library 
Dagoba), Audience Hall, Council 
Chamber Citadel (probably the 
Royal Palace), Elephant Pavilion, 
Kumara Pokuna, the massive Gal- 
pota or Stone Book, the Pabula 
Vehera, Siva Devale, No. 2, Una- 
gala Vehera, some smaller temples. 

Varied sport can be obtained 
from Polonnaruwa under the Gov- 
ernment Regulations : there is a 
close season for certain animals. 

76 m. Alutoya (R.H.), in the 
midst of the thick forest ; not a 
bad station for sportsmen. The 
country is flat, and the jungle 
of such uniform character as to 
become very monotonous. Mon- 
keys aro certain to be seen crossing 
the road in large troops during 
this portion of the journey. 

88|^ m. Kantalai (R.H.), on the 
bund of the great tank of Kantalai, 
restored by Sir W. Gregory in 

1875. 

100 m. Tampalakazn. Minor 
road on right leads to paddy-fields 
irrigated by Kantalai. 

109 m road to Batticaloa ; eight 
ferries to be crossed. 

1 10^ m. Metalled road to Auur- 
adhapura. 

1 13 m. Trincoinalee (R.H.) 
(65 m. from Anuradhapura, from 
which place a comfortable mail 
motor coach is run daily by the 
Railway Department). It is a 
town with a magnificent natural 
harbour, on the N.E. coast of the 
island. It is built on the N. side 
of the bay, on the neck of a, bold 
peninsula, separating the inner 
from the outer harbour. The 
former is about 4 sq. m. in extent. 



ROUTE lO, SPORTING TOURS 


68 .. 


With very deep water. ^Phe place 
is well laid out, but the houses are 
poor. Population 9000. 

The town was one ol the earhest 
settlements of the Tamil race in 
Ceylon. They built a great temple 
on the spot where Fort Frederick 
now stands. The building was 
destroyed by the Portuguese when 
they took the place in 1622, and 
the materials were employed to 
build the fort ; but the site is still 
held in great veneration, and 
every week a Brahman priest, in 
the presence of a large crowd, 
throws offerings into the sea from 
a ledge near the summit of a huge 
precipice of black rock — a most 
picturesque scene. A monument 
on the summit of the rocky 
eminence bears an inscription in 
Dutch commemorating the death 
of a young Dutch lady, who. in 
1687, being disappointed in a 
love affair, committed suicide at 
the spot. Since the expulsion of 
the Portuguese, European nations 
have held the place in the iollowing 
order : Dutch, 1639 a.d ; French, 
1673 A.D. ; Dutch, 1674 A.D. : 
French, 1782 a.d. : Dutch, 17S3 
A.D. ; English, 1795. It was 
taken by the British fleet after a 
siege of three weeks, and was 
formally ceded to Great Britain 
at the Peace of Amiens in 1802, 

About 6 m. out of the town, at 
a place called Kanhiya, there are 
some hot springs (see p. 677) « 

Trincomalee, for many years 
the headquarters of the East 
India Squadron, has been en- 
tirely abandoned by the IVliUtary 
and almost entirely by the 
Navy. 

The entrance to the Bay is 
marked out by a fine Lighthouse 
at Foul Point, and another fight 
is placed further in on Round 
Island. The Mahawehganga, the 
largest river in the Island, taking 
its rise near Adam's Peak, dis- 
embogues here. 

Good shooting is to be had in 
season in the neighbourhood of 
Trincomalee, which is a port of 


call for the round - the - island 
steamers. 

In Tampalakani Bay, a few miles 
to the S.E. of Trincomalee, the 
! window-pane oyster {Placuna pla- 
centa) is found — so called from the 
use to which the Chinese some- 
I times put the flat translucent 
I shells. The Placuna pearls, value- 
less as gems, are used by the 
wealthy classes in India to make 
j lime to chew with “ betel." 


ROUTE 10. 

Sporting Tours. 

The attention of sportsmen is called to the 
work of the Game Preservation Society 
(headquarters Nuvara Ehya) whose main 
object is to enforce “the close seasons.’ 
The open season for game (including pea- 
fowl) is from ist November to 31st May. 
Visitors who profit by the work of the 
Society are invited to contribute to its 
funds, the meagreness of which restricts its 
operations 

Such tours as the following, of 
course, require some degree of 
preparation. Though there are 
R. Hs. on the routes indicated, 
they are but few. The}* con- 
tain probably no furniture save 
a table and a bench or two, and 
are quite destitute of supplies. 
The traveller or sportsman will 
have to carry his owm food, cook- 
ing utensils, bedding, and tent ; 
and this will necessitate the em- 
ployment of numerous porters, 
whose pace must regulate his own, 
though, if on horseback, he can get 
over the ground more rapidly than 



CEYLON : YALA 


690 • 

they do. If expense is not an 
object, it would be well to get 
temporary shelters of bamboo 
and leaf thatch put up at those 
places, where there is no R. H. , for 
the tent is but an indifferent 
protection against either fierce sun 
or heavy rain, and health may 
seriously suffer in consequence. 

In the Southern Province all 
R.Hs. are well furnished and 
provided with beds and bed 
linen, crockery, cooking utensils, ■ 
etc. Supplies, except fowl, eggs, ’ 
rice, etc., are not usually found i 
except in the principal R.Hs. 
Soda - water is usually available. 
Other Government buildings — 
e.g.. Public Works Department 
Bungalows— usually contain only 
a table and two chairs. The 
stages are generally long, and for 
the sportsman particularly it is 
advisable to bring a tent, food, 
cooking utensils, etc. Bullock- 
carts can be hired at reasonable 
rates where there are roads 

I. The Yala Sanctuary. Of 
course it is not supposed to be 
likely that any sportsman would 
make the whole of this tour, but 
it indicates a line of country any 
part of which would make a good 
centre for sport. The animals to 
be found are elephants, ^ bears, 
leopards, deer, and in some places 
wild ‘ buffaloes ; wild peacocks 
abound in the forests, and the 
tanks and marshes are full of 
wild fowl ; they also swarm with 
crocodiles. 

Starting from Badulla (R.H. 5 [j), 
by carriage the road to Bibile 
(R.H.) is described in Route 2. 

Here wheel conveyance must be 
abandoned, and the distance must 
be counted not by miles but in 
hours, the hour being calculated 
on the ordinary pace of a loaded 
porter. 

1 A licence to shoot an elephant costs 
for residents Rs. loo and for non-residents 
Rs.300, a buffalo Rs. 20 for residents and 
Rs.75 for non-residents, and a general game 
licence Rs.5 and Rs.45 for non-residents 
per annum. 


6 hrs. Nilgala. A small village 
with a little patch of paddy culti- 
vation, situated most pictur- 
esquely on a river at the entrance 
to *a wild and narrow pass. 

4 hrs. Tambagalla (R.H.). A 
small village, in the vicinity of 
which irrigation works have been 
constructed in modern times. 

3 hrs. Sledagama (R.H.). In 
a very pretty jungle country 
abounding with elephants. 

5 hrs, Nakkala (R.H-). There 
is a picturesque Buddhist temple 
on the side of a mountain in the 
neighbourhood. 

3 hrs. Buttala good). 

An oasis of cultivation in the 
jungle, due to the restoration 
of its ancient irrigation works. 
Everywhere through the forests 
the ruins of ancient systems of 
irrigatiofi and other vestiges of 
civilisation are to be found. 
Excellent snipe-shooting during 
October to January. 

4 hrs. Galge. A mass of bare 
rocks rising from the jungle. 
There is no R.H. here, and 
though some shelter may be 
obtained in caves, tents or a 
temporary house would be needed. 

3 hrs. Kataragama (R.H.). A 
famous place of Hindu pilgrimage, 
to which worshippers were wont to 
^ resort from all parts of India, as, 
indeed, they occasionally still do. 

I The pilgrimage was found to pro- 
I duce such mischievous effects in 
the spread of disease that the 
Ceylon Government has lor many 
years endeavoured to check it, and 
it is now reduced to comparatively 
small numbers. Still, at the time 
(the dates vary) of the annual 
pilgrimage, the temple and 
its vicinity form a picturesque 
I and interesting sight. The temple 



ROUTE lO. SPORTING TOURS : THE SANCTUARY 


itself is but an insignificant 
building, and a single gilt-metal 
tile forms the only relic of the 
golden roof for which it was once 
celebrated. 

6 hrs. Palatupane (sec p. bjO). 
Ill the Southern Province. 

4 hrs. Yala Ri^er (no accommo- 
dation). Here begins the district 
in which wild buffaloes are still 
found. On ^he further bank of 
the Yala River a large tract of 
country has been ‘ proclaimed 
by Government, and is known as 
the “ Yala Sanctuary,” in which 
no shooting or hunting of any sort 
is allowed. The Sanctuary lies 
between the rivers Yala and 
Kumbukkan, the other limits 
being the sea. on one side and 
the boundary of the Province on 
the other. The area is computed 
at 150 sq. miles. Good forest 
scenery on river. 

3 hrs. Uda Potana. No R.H. 
About 2 hrs from Uda Potana 
the ford crossing the Kumbukkan 
Aar, the boundary between the 
Southern and Eastern Provinces 
is reached, and about ^ hr. farther 
is Kumuna {P.W. Bungalow), 
near a small village. 

6 hrs. Okanda (P.W. Bungalow), 
at the foot of a bare rock rising 
out of the sea of jungle. Peacocks 
are to be found in great abundance 
in the neighbourhood of Okanda. 

3 hrs. Panawa (P.W. Bungalow). 

6 hrs. Lahugalawewa. A re- 
stored tank, the haunt of many 
wild-fowl. There is a P.W. 
Bungalow at the tank. Its 
accommodation is limited. Many 
elephants in the neighbourhood. 

From this point an excursion of 
some days may be made through 
the wild country on the border of 
Uva and the Eastern Province. 


6qi 

I There are luinlly any villages, and 
1 the only accommodation, not 
I specially provided for, would have 
j to be found in the meagre hospi- 
i taiity of some secluded Buddhist 
j monastery of which a few are 
j scattered through the forests. It 
I is useless to indicate any particular 
! route, as that would certainly be 
! made to depend upon the reports 
j received as to the haunts of wild 
animals at the time. 

It may, however, be assumed 
that a return to compara- 
tive civilisation Avili be made 
at Irrakamam, a restored tank, 
where there is an Irrigation 
Bungalow. In its vicinity are 
j the scanty ruins of what was once 
an enormous dagoba, and a good 
road leads hence to Kalmtiiiai 
(R.H. -^f) on the coast, and thence 
to (25 m.) Batticaloa (see Route 2). 
The sportsman, however, will 
probably prefer to proceed through 
the jungles to Chadaiyantalawa 
and Ambarai tanks, both of which 
are swarming with crocodiles ; and 
from the latter to 

; 6 hrs. the river Namal Aar, the 

I boundary of the Eastern Province, 
j on crossing which the traveller 
I finds himself again in Uva. 

5 hrs. riding along a good track 
i will bring him back to Nilgala, 

‘ from whence he may either return 
j to Badulla the way he came pr 
I by 6^ hrs. Medagama (R.H.) and 
i 4 hrs. Alupota, in a lovely 
; position, rejoining the main road 
i to Badulla at (2 hrs.) Passara 
j (R.H.). (See Route 2.) 

The foregoing tour, under the 
title of “ The Park Country and 
the Batticaloa Tanks,” is more 
fully described in Sir Samuel 
I Baker's Rifle and Hound in 
j Ceylon. 

I 

I 2. 'Hie Horton Plains (see Route 
! 2). Here deer are hunted on foot 
' and knifed ; there is also excellent 



CEYLON 


692 


trout fishing in season. Full par- [ 
Uculars may be obtained at The , 
Hill Club, or from the Assistant ! 
Government Agent at Nuwara j 
EUya. I 

3. Tile Trincomalee District (see 1 
Route 9). 

4. The Puttalam District (see 
Route 6). 

The Wil Pattu Sanctuary. This 


Sanctuary was formed in 1903 on 
the lines of that oi Yala. Its area 
is 150 sq. m., and its limits are 
well defined, the eastern boun- 
dary being the sea-coast at Portu- 
gal Bay. 

5. The Hambantota District 
(some parts of this District are 
referred to in Route i), 

6. Minneri and Polonnaruwa 
(Route 9). 



APPENDIX A. 

PRINCIPAL KINGS. 

(From Mitton's Lost Cities, of Ceylon^ p. xvi. 



Turnour. 

Wickremasinghe. 

\Vija>a 

. 543 B.c. 

483 b.c. 

Pandukabhaya 

. 437 „ 

377 „ 

Dewanampia Tissa . 

. 307 „ 

247 » 

Uttiya ..... 

267 

207 ,, 

Elala . . . . . 

205 ,, 

145 .. 

Dutugemunu (Dutthagamini) . 

161 ,, 

lOI ,, 

Lajji Tissa .... 

119 „ 

59 

Walagambahu 

104 and 88 b.c. 

43 and 28 B.C. 

Bhatikabhaya .... 

19 B.c. to 9 A.D. 

42 A.D. 

Gaja Bahu I. . 

113A.U. 

177 ,, 

Kanittha Tissa^ 


229-247 ,, 

Maha Sena .... 

275 A.D. to 292 or 

308 ,, 

302 A.D. 


Mahanama .... 

412-434 A.D. 



Here ends the Mahawansa : the rest of the kings belong to the Suluwansa. 


Turnour. WiCKREMASIN'GHK. 


Mitta Sena 

433 A.D, 

Dhatu Sena 

. 459 A.D. 

495 A.D. 

Kasyapa I. 

. 477 


From this point the 

dates in the first column are 

from Wijesinha ; the 

second, as before, from Wickremasinghe, whose figures in all cases are 

provisional. 

WlJESINIIA. 

Wickremasinghe. 

Aggabodhi I. . 

. 564 A. I). 

629 A.D. 

Aggabodhi III. 

. 623 „ 

655 .. 

Aggabodhi IV. 

. 674 ,, 

704 » 

Aggabodhi VI. 

. 741 ,, 

792 

Mahinda II. . 

. 787 ,, 

838 » 

Sena I. . 

. 846 „ 

897 .. 

Sena II. 

. 866 „ 

899 

Udaya I. 

901 „ 

952 „ 

Kasyapa IV. . 

912 ,, 

963 ,, 

Kasvapa V. 

929 to 939 A.o. 

980 „ 

Sena IV. 

C. 972 A.D, 

<• 1023 .. 

Mahinda IV. . 

. 975 .. 

1008 ,, 

Mahinda V. 

tool ,, 

1018 ,, 

Wijaya Bahu I. 

. 1065 ,, 

1038 ,, 

Wikrama Bahu 

. II2I ,, 

IIIO ,, 

Gaja Bahu II. 

- 1142 ,, 

1131 

Parakrama Bahu I. 

. 1164 ,, 

1153 0 

Wijaya Bahu II. 

. 1197 

1186 ,, 

Nissanka Malla 

1198 ., 

1187 „ 

Bhuwaneka Bahu . 

. 1277 ,, 

1288 ,, 

Parakrama Bahu III. 

1288 

Wimala Dharama (first 

King 


of Kandy) . 

■ 1592 ,, 


Sri Wickrema Raja Singha (last 


King of Kandy) . 

. . X79S A.D. Deposed 


1815 A.D. 




appendix b. 

fable of distances. 

(From Mitton’s Lost Cities of Ceylon, p. 253.) 


MILES, 1 

Anuradhapura 

to Dambulla . « 44 | 

,, Kandy . , . 89 | 

Kurunegala . -71 i 

,, Polonnaruwa {by j 

direct road) . 65 i 

(by Dambulla) . So 

,, Sigiriya . . ■ 5 ^ ] 

,, Yapahuua . • 45 

('OlOMEO 

to Anuradhapura (by 

Kurunegala) . 129 
(by Kegalle and 

Kandy) . .161 

,, Kandy ... 72 

,, Kurunegala . . 58 

,, Polgahawela . . 45 

Dambulla 

to Anuradhapura . 44 

,, Kandy . . *45 

,, Habarane . .14 

,, Polonnaruwa . • 42 

,, Sigiriya . , . ro 

Habarane 

to Anuradhapura . 37 

,, Dambulla . .14 

,, Kandy . . .59 

,, Polonnaruwa . . 28 

,, Sigiriya . . - IS 



MILES. 

Kandy 

to Anuradhapura 

. 89 

,, Dambulla 

. 45 

,, Habarane * . 

- 59 

Matale . 

. 16 

,, Polonnaruwa . 

. 87 

,, Sigiriya , 

55 

MaTai.l 

to Anuradhapura 

. 73 

, , Dambulla 

. 29 

, , Habarane 

- 43 

Kandy . 

. 16 

,, Polonnaruwa . 

- 7^ 

,, Sigiriya . 

. 39 

Pot onnaruwa 

to Anuradhapura 

(by 

direct road) . 

. 65 

(by Dambulla) 

. 80 

,, Dambulla 

. 42 

,, Habarane 

. 28 

,, Kandy . 

. 87 

,, Sigiriya . 

. 43 

SiOIRIYA 

to Anuradhapura 

• 52 

,, Dambulla 

. 10 

,, Habarane 

. 15 

,, Kandy . 

. 55 

,, main road 

. 6 

,, Polonnaruw^a . 

. 43 


Note. — These distances are in many cases taken from the ^^otor-to^r 
Prospectus of Messrs Walker, Sons & Co. Ltd. , Ce) Ion. 


694 



INDEX AND DIRECTORY FUR 1918 

(Reference to persons are given in small capital type.) 


Mr MurtKAY will feel greatly obliged to travellers who are kind enough to send him notes of 
any mistakes or omissions that they may notice in this Directory, giving at the same time 
a permanent address to refer to m case of necessity. 

(R.)= Refreshment Room ; D.B. =Dak or Travellers’ Bnngalow ; 

R.H. — Rest House; H.= Hotel. 


A , 

ABBOTTABAD, D.B., 334, i 
342, 349 j 350* I 

ABUL FAZL, I44, I53, 24I, C44, I 
248. j 

ABU, MOUNT, 1 8 1 . 

ABU ROAD (R.), i8i. i 

D.B. close to rly. sta. ! 
Conveyances to Mt. Abu 
(17 m.) : motor-car (6 seats) 

34 rs., 6 rs. per seat: mail 
motor lorry, i ist cl. seat, 

6 rs. ; 8 2nd cl. seats, 3 rs. 

8 as. per seat ; 8 3rd cl. seats, 

2 rs. per seat : bullock shig- 
ram, 4 seats, i r. per seat ; 
rickshaw, 5 rs. 

ACHIBAL, 346 

ACHILGHAR, 183. 

ACHNERA(R.), 219- 

ADAM’S PEAK, 663, 669. 

ADAMWAHAN BRIDGE, 
357- 

.ADEN, liv. 

ADILABAD, 282. 

ADONI, D.B., 476. 

ADR A, 122. 


AFRIDIS, 339-340. 

AGRA (R)., T58, 200, 2t9; 
229. Railway from Bom- 
bay, Routes 9, i2, and 13 : 
from Delhi and Allahabad 
Route 22, 

Hotels : Cecil H, (Mrs , 
Hotz), excellent, from 8 rs. 
upwards ; Laurie' s H,, well | 
spoken of; Mtiropole H., ' 
Carlton H., Empress H., \ 
all about i m. from Fort 1 
rly. sta., and about m. 
from Cantonment rly. sta. 

Banks : Bank 0/ Bengal ; 
Alliance Bank 0/ Simla. 

Clwrches: St Georges, \ 
S t Pa trick's., Has'el oc k 


Chapel, Cantonment, ^t 
Pauls, Civil Lines, i>t \ 
Mathias's, Agra Fort, 
Cathedral in Civil Lines. | 
Club: Agra C., near ; 
Post Office. 1 

Missions: C.M.S., St | 
Johns College, Baptist i 
.Mission, Methodist Mission. | 
Hospitals ; Thomason, . 
for men, includes Eye Hos- 
pital of 80 beds ; Dufferin. 
includes Maternity and 
Lady Lyall Hospitals ; 
Hezoctt, Hospital for infec- 
tious diseases ; Medical 
School. 

Shops Shaivl Mer- 
ckanL, Gold and Silzer 
Kmh?‘oider}\ Ganeshi Lall 
& Sons, Drummond Rd , ■ 
Gulab Chand & Lakhmi j 
Chann, Chuttan Lai Kin- j 
ari Bazar ; Agfa Marble j 
Works. Diummond Road; j 
Miniature Painter Badri 
Pershad ; Photographers, ! 
Priya Lai, Rama, Dorab ; ; 
Carpet Factory Otto Wey- ! 
landt. Strand Road, oppo- | 
site Itimad ud dauia ; ■ 
Motors, Pestonii, Canton- 
ments ; and Nathu Mai ■ 
Mahadeo, Helanganj. 

Hackney Carriages : 

CiaNS 1. 11. 

By distance— 

Per mile . . 8 as. 6 as. 

By time — 

Dayofghrs. 4 /s. 3 rs. 

Half-day, sbrs. 2jrs. 2 rs. 

ohrs. . . • Urs. ir. 

J ^ . 12 as. 10 as. 

ahalya bai, 33. 35> 66, 6g, 
123-124. 2^5. 484- 

AHMAD SHAH DURANI, Ixiii, 
Ixiv, 251, 262, 284, 299, 308, 
ciOQ, 403. 

605 


A HMADABAD (R-), 17 1, 2uo. 
Hotels: Grand ; 

near Christ Church, about 
m. from rly. sta. ; Bed- 
rooms, noisy, attached to 
the rly. sta. Refreshment 
Rooms. 

Bank : Bank 0/ Bombay, 
in the Bhadar Compound, 
near the Collector’s Office. 

Cbnrcbes : Christ C. , 
('lose to the Grand H. ; also 
C kurch in the C' .nconment, 

2 m. outside the city. 
Mission: Irish Presby- 
terian Mission, R.C. 
Church. 

Hackney Carriages 
Class I. IL 
ist hr. . . I r. 12 as. 

Each subs. hr. 12 as. 6 as. 
Day ... 8 rs. 4^ r:s. 

To city or 

camp , . I r, 12 as. 

Motors : 8 as. per m., 5 
rs. per hr, 

AHMADNAGAR (R.), D.B. 

(very inferior), 473 : no 
hotel. Good tongas avail- 
able at rly. sta , where 
the»-e is a small R. and 
waiting-room. 

Club, good. 

Golf Club. 

Mission: S.P.G. 

AIHOLL 502. 

AITCHISON, SIRC.U., 309. 

AJAIGARH FORT. i6i 

AJANTA, 36, 56 

AJMER (R,), 134, 189. 

Sleeping Rooms at the 
rly. sta. excellent D.B. 
Railway H., mediocre 
Cburcb : near the rly. sta. 
Club : Kaisarbagh. 
Mission : Medical of 
F. Church of J^cotl^nd. 



696 


INDEX AND DIRECTORY 


BazUs : Alliance Bank 0/ 
Simla. 

Hackney Carriages : 

By time— 

Class I. n. 

Day of 9 hrs. 5 rs. 3 rs. 
Half-day . . 3 rs. 2 rs. 

I hr. , , ijTS. i2as. 

AJODHYA, 376 
AKBAK, Emperor, Ixiv, Ixv, 

41, 43, 62, 74, 96, 119, 125, 
127, i2g, 144, 148, 163, 170, 
184, 189, IQO, IQt, 220, 225, 
228, 229, 233, 237, 238, 24 t, 
242, 243, 244, 247, 248. 

251, 271, 274, 280, 284, 297, 
3^2, 3 ' 3 - 324-323, 335 i 339 , 
34I7 344 . 358, 377 . 379 - 4 i 5 - 
43 ^. 473 

AKMEEMANA, 673. 

AKOLA, 113, 

AKYAB, D.B., 644. There 
are no hotels, but at the 
D.B. meals are provided by 
a khansama. 

Clubs : A kyab Gymkhana 
Club, Race Course Road, 
The l^ohinUers Club, Main 
Road, and The Telegraph 
Club, Phayre Street. 

General Stores : Jacob 
^ Co., JEzekiel or Co. 

European Shops : Messrs 
Rowe TT' Co., Messrs 
li hiteaway, Taidlazo < 5 r’ 
Co 

ALAUDDIN, EMPEROR, Ixiv, 
Ixv, 61, 102, 103, 137, 129, 
170, iSi. 251, 273, 275, 

277. 279, 280, 281, 414, 
ALBUQUERQUE, AFFONSO 
2, 490. 567, 569. 

ALEXANDER THE GREAT. 

Ixxxvt, 326, agi;, 566. 
ALGIERS, xHii. 

ALIABAD SARAI, 348, 349. 
AT J GASH, 200, 403. 

D.B. Kellner’s Refresh- 
ment and Sleeping Rooms, 
Missions : American 

Methodist Episcopal, R.C.. 
and C.M.S. Church. 

ALI MASJID, 3 30 . 

ALIPUR, 87. 

ALIWAL, 293. 

ALLAHABAD (R.), 41, 414. 
Railways: From Bom bay ! 
and to Calcutta, Route 2 ; 
from Delhi and Agra, Route 
22 ; to Benares, Route 2 ; 
to Lucknow, Route 22. 

Hotels: Kellner' s Rooms, 
the Central Hotel; South 
Road, 5 rs a day: Grand 
H., Canning Road. 7 rs. a 
day. 


Club: Allahabad Club. \ 
Banks : Bengal, Allaha- 
bad. 

Shops : Jewellers, Betch- 
ler, Janson and Scowen, 
Chemists, Buncombe, 
Robbie ; Photographers , 
Dagg (winter season only) ; 
^listry (Canning Road ; 
Drapers, Hathaway ; Tre- 
\eUon & Clarke Stationer. 
Li l) dell ; General Mer- 
chants, Shaporji, Guzder, 
Ghaudi. 

Churches ; Cathedral. 
R. C. Cathedral , Holy 
Trinity, 

Missions: C.M.S., St 
Paul's Church : Divinity 
College ; The Baptist, 
Presbyterian, American 
Methodist Episcopal, and 
Zenana. 

Motors : Repairs at 
Motishaw’s. and Morrison 
d: Crook ; petrol at Wheel- 
er’s, Motishaw’s, Morrison 
iS: Crook's, and (Guzder 's. 

Newspapers: The 
Pioneer, a daily paper, 
one of the most important 
in India; 7 ' he Pioneer 
A/^z 7 ,for readers in Europe; 
The Leader. 

Tailor: Hathaway. 
Booksellers : Wheeler 
Co., NortherxT India Tract 
and Book Society. 

Hackney Carriages : 

By time — 

Class I. 11 . 

TSt hr. , . I r. 12 as. 

Subs, hr. . 8 as. 6 as. 

^ day . . 2I rs. 2 rs. 

Day, 4 rs. 8 as. 3 r.->. 3 as. 
By distance — 

(By agreement) . 8 as. 

per m. 

ALLBLESS, BOMANJEE E., I5. 

ALMORA, 384, 385. 

D.B., but no hotels- 

AI.TAMSH, EMPEROR, Ixiv, Ixv, 
148, i-;4, 190, 224, 248, 252, 
265, 277, 279, 280, 281, 416. 

ALUTNUWARA, 663, 666. 

ALUTOYA, R.H. small, 
well situated for sportsmen. 
688 . 

ALWAB (Ulwar), 198. ■» 

D.B. close to rly. sta 
.Application should be made 
beforehand to the Senior 
Member of Council for the 
u.se of a carriage, which is 


kindly put at the disposal 
of visitors (there is a small 
charge) ; also for permission 
to visit the Palace, Library, 
Treasury, and Armoury. 

Mission; U.F. Ch. of 
Scotland. 

AMALNER, 165. 
AMARAPURA, 630. 
AMARAVATI, 459. 
AMARKANTAK, 119. 
AMARNATH CAVE, 347. 
AMBALA(R.), D.B., 287, 296. 
Hotels : Parry's H., 
Lumley' s H. near the rly. 
sta. ; Robson's H. 

Agents : R. Norton Sj* 
Co. undertake the clearing 
and forwarding of goods be- 
tween Ambala, Kasauli, 
Sabathu, etc. 
caub : Sirhind C. 

Banks : A lliance Bank 
of Simla ; Bank of Upper 
Tndia. 

Mission : American 

Presbyterian 

Chemist: spratt. 
General Merchant . 

Norton. 

Tailor : Coutts. 

Hackney Carriages ; 

Class I. II. 

Per day . 4 rs. 3 rs. 

xst. hr. . . I r. 12 as 

subs. hr. . 8 as. 6 as. 

AMBALANGODA, R,H. 
good ; good bathing-place, 
672. 

AMBALANTOTA, R.H. 
good, 675. 

AMBARNATH, 460. 
AJMBEPUSSA, R.H, J m. 
from rly. sta., 658. 

AMBER (R,), 192, 196. 197 ; 
Restaurant, fairly good. 

AMGAOISr, 1x8. 

AMHERST, LORD, 39O. 
AMINGAON, 442. 

AMIR KHUSRU, POET, 274, 
277. 

A M M A Y A N A Y A K- 
KANUR, 589. 

D.B. comfortable, close 
to rly. sta., convenient fox 
travellers to and from Kodai- 
kana!, Painy Hills. 
-\MRTHILL, LORD, 55O. 

AMR.^OTI, 113' 

Waiting Rooms. Good 
D.B. 



AMRITSAE (R.), 299. 

Hotels: Tkc Cambridge, 
The Amritsar, The Ca'il 
and Military, The last is 
the old D.B., given over to 
the hotel proprietor for 
management. Amritsar can 
be conveniently visited from 
Lahore. 

Bailks: National Bank 
0/ India ; Alliance Bank 
of Simla; Chartered Bank 
of India. Australia, ard 
China ; Punjab National ; 
.‘Allahabad Bank , Punjab 
and Sind Bank. 

Ca^et Factories : Des i 
Sahai Chamba Mai ; Joseph 
Wittmann ; T. C. Mailer , 
K. B. Ghulam Hussain. 

Dealers in Oriental 
Goods: Devi Sahai Chamba 
Mai ; Bokhara House (Din 
Gu!. Proprietor) ; Radha 
Kifehen ; Lachhman Das ; 
Karin Chand ; Tajuddin. 

AMTA, 100. 

ANAGUNDI, 517, 519 

ANAKAPATJJ, 457. 

ANAND, 170. 

AN AN TAP DR, 522. 

ANDHER, 143. 

AN GE DIVA, 489. 

ANKLES WAR, 165. 

ANNANDALE, 280 290 

ANSON, GENKRAI., 253. 

ANURADHAPURA(B.), 589, 
65S, 677, 679, 6S1. 

Hotel good : S rs. a day, I 
inclusive, fixed by Govern- 
ment. 

The rates and fares for 
carriages, hackeries, spring 
carts and jinrickshas are 
chargeable according to a 
scale specified in detail in 
Schedule B. of By-law, No. 
27 (of the Vehicles Ordin- 
ance, No. 9 of 1 901), as- 
amended by Proclamation, 
dated 17th November 1916. 

AONG, 410. 

APPA SAHIB, 115, 483. 

ARAVALLI HILLS, 181 

ARGOT, 537-540. 

ARKONAM (R.), 478, 540, 

- 559- I 

Excellent sleeping ac- 
commodation at rly. sta. 

ARORE, 359. 

ARRAH, D.B., 47. 

ARSIKERE (R.), 527. j 

ASAF JAH, 102 , 103. j 

ASAF KHAN, I78, 232, 241. { 

3 ^^ 


INDEX AND DIRECTORY 


ASANSUL (R.), 47, 54 122. ' 
442 

. 4 siatic Pcsearc/iLS, 84. 1 

ASIRGARH HILL-FORT, 
37- 

ASOKA, FMPEKOR, Lxxxvi, 

c\ii, 43. 4S- 5V 5b, 64, 73, 
127. 1 38, 139, 140, 207, 200, 
211, 270, 377, 450. 

ASOKA’S PILLARS, 43, 64. | 

72, 74, 270. 

ASOKA’S ROCK IN- ! 
SCRIPTIONS, 40, 43, 53, I 
83, 84, 209, 271, 336, 445, j 

450 ' 

ASSAM VALLEY, 434, 440 
Mail Commimlcation 
with Calcutta by Chand- 
pnr and by Paxbatipur. 

See pp 438, 441 

ASSAYS, 112. 

ATGAON, 29, 31. 

ATTOCK, R.H., 335-336. 

AUCKLAND, LORD, So, 82, 289, 
35 '^- 

AUNGIER, 2, 5, 9, 164. 
AURANGABAD, D.B. good, 
but small, no. 

AURANC2EB, EMPEROR, Ixiv, 
Ixv, Iw'd, Ixxxviii, 31, 68, 
69, 71. 76, 102, 103, no, 
in, 127. 135, 152, 156, 164, 
184, 192, 214, 21S, 222, 224, 
227, 228, 230, 234, 237, 246, 

, 261, 263, 264, 269, 274, 

I 2S0, 292, 297, 308, 315, 319, 
322, 337, 355, 362, 403, 436, 

475> 476, 4S2, 4S4. 49V 
497> 49S, 509; 511. 520, 535. 
AVA, 630. 

AV ANTIPUR, 346- 
AVISAWELLA, R.H. excel- 
lent, 657, 669. 
AWATKOOLA, 344. 
AYODHYA, 180. 
AZAMGARH, 421. 
AZIMGANJ, 414- 

AZIM, PRINCE, 76, 102, 157, 

192, 436. 482-3. 

B 

BABAR EMPEROR, Ixiv, 
Ixv, 148, 153, 224, 242, 

243, 248, 2S4, 337. 

BADAMI, <;oo. 

RIj% R.^ Permission to 
occupy granted by District 
Traffic Superintendent, S. j 
Madras Rly. Bijapur. ' 

BADARPUR, 2S3, 438. I 
BADLI-KI-SARAI, 254, 269, | 
283. ' 


6q7 


BADNERA (R. Waiting 
and Refreshment Rooms), 
D,B., 113. 

BADUIiLA, R.H. good, 666, 
690. 

Bank : Bank of Ur'a. 
BAGALKOT. 500. 
BAGDEHI, 120. 
lUHADURPUR. 149 

B.^HADUR shah (t\\ O EM 
PERORS), 157, 252, 273, 281. 
BAHADUR SHAH OF GUJARAT, 
125, 127, I2g, 

BAHAWALP0R, D.B., 357. 
BAHMANI DYNASTY. 474-5, 

476, 505. 

BAHRAICH, 375. 
BAHURIBAND, 40- 
BAIDYANATH, 53. 

BAILLIE GUARD, 389, 390. 
BAIZA BAI OF INDORE, xci, 

68, 69- 

BAJAURA, 292, 306. 

BAJI RAO I , 70,- 145 
BAJI KAO II., 10, 31, 70, 407, 
465, 470, 47t, 472, 474. 

BAKHTAWAR SINGH, 
199. 

BAKHTIYAR KHAN, 53, 

BAKER, SIR E. N., 79. 

BALAJI B.AJI RAO, 35, 467, 471. 

B ALAN GOD A, R.H., 670. 
BALASORE, D.B., 96, 443. 

BALBAN EMPEROR, 280, 403, 
416. 

BALIPITHAM, 599-600. 
BALLVGUNGE (Balu- 

GANj), 86. 

BALRAMPUR, 375, 
BALSAR, 162. 

BALTAL, 347. 

BALUGAN, 455. 
BANAVAR, 525. 

B ANDA (R.). D.B., i6i. 
BANDARAWELLA, 666, 
671. 

Hotel excellent, conducted 
as an hotel. Coach to 
Badulla, 18 m. 

BANDEL, 55, q8. 
P.ANDIKUI (R.), 198, 210. 
BANDRA, *5. 

BANGALORE (R. at City 
Sta ^ Tea and Coffee Room 
at Cantonment Sta.), 523, 
527. Railway from Bombaj- 
and Poona, Routes 26 and 
3 c ; from Madras Route 
32 {b). 



698 


INDEX AND DIRECTORY 


Hotels: The West End 
Cub if on H. (accommo- 
dation at these 2 hotels is 
abov'e the av'erage), flora 6 
rs. ; St Mark s Hotel, 

Missions: Eondon^ IVes- 

leyan Methodist , Metho- 
diH Episcopal; R.C. 
Cathedral. 

HnnKs : Bank 0/ Madras .i 
'1 he Mysore Bank, Banga- 
lore. 

Chemists: Forster, Cap- 
tain & Co., The Cash Phar- 
macy. 

Jevjellers : Barton & 
Son, Mariam & Co. 

Motors: Motor House. 

Bookseller : Hige'in- 
botham. 

Pkotopy-aphers : Barton 
&Son. 

Club : United Service C . , 
Residency Road. ' 

Hackney Carriages : 

By time — 

Class I. II. 

ist hr. . , I r. 12 as. 

Fach subs, hr, 6 as. 4 as. 
By distance — 

Class I. IJ. 

3 m. . . . I r. 12 as. 

Each subs- m. 4 as. 3 as. 
BANKIPORE (R.), 48. 1 

D.B. good, near rly sta. 

Bank : Bank 0/ Bengal. 
Churches ; 6T Mark's 

and St Thomas' s. 

BANNU, 331. 

banvan trees, 43-44, 93-94, 
167, 228, 479.480, 486, 
550 , 594. 

BaPATLA, 460. 

BARA, D.B., 340. 

BARABANKI, 375. 

BARABAR C.WE.S, 50 i 

BARAKAO, 330 

BARAKAR, 54. 

BARAMGALLA, D.B., 348. 

BAEAKULA, 34:5 

D.B., good. 

BARAN, 143. 

BARAUNI, 419. 

BAREHTA, 157. 

BAREILLT, D.B., 373, 383. 

Re/reshment Rooms at 
, the rl>. bia. with sleeping- 
rooms. 

Club : Bareilly C. 

Hotel: station. Corona' 
tion. Civil and Military 
Cantonment D.B. (The last 
is the best.) 

Ba^ : upper India, 
A Uanabad 


BARGAON, 40. 

BARNARD, GENfeRAL S-IR H., 

254 > 25s, 269. 

BARODA, 168. 

Good Refreshment and 
Waiting Rooms. 

D.B. in camp, li m. from I 
rly. sta. I 

Baroda Hotel: ^ m. to i 
W. of railway station : well 
situated, fair. 

Churches : Anglican, 
consecrated by Bp. Heber, 
1824; restored 1838. There 
are also ./?.C. 2Si^ Methodist 
Churches. 

BARRACKPORE, 94, 95 | 

BARSI ROAD (R.), R.H.. j 
473 - 1 

BARWARI, 269. I 

BARWA - SAGAR, D.B., j 
144- 158. , 

BASAVA, 525- 
BASSEIN {Bombay), cU, 2, 

3 , 5 - 

BASSEIN {Burma), 643, 645. 
BASSEIN ROAD, 28- 

Waiting Room at rly. 
station. 

District Bungalow (not | 
furnished for travellers, and ' 
no messman) near ruins. I 
Conveyances at the station, ( 
BATALA, 303 I 

BATTICALOA, R.H. -ood, 
667. 688, 691. 

8ATTULU OYA, 677. 
BATWA, 178. 

BAWAN, 346. 

BEAWAR, D.B., 189, 

BEDSA CAVES, 465. 
BEGAMPET, 514. 
BEGAMPUR (Delhi), 252, 

275. 320. ( 

BELGADM(R.), 485. j 

D.B. near the Fort, m. 1 
from sta. Hotel near sta. ! 

Missions: Methodist { 
Episcopal; R C. Church. ' 
Public Conveyances : | 

drawn by bullocks, and a ; 
few motor-cars. I 

BELIHULOYA, R.H. good, j 

670. I 

BELT, ARY (R.), D.B., Rail- I 
way Refreshment and Retir- . 
ing Rooms : no Hotel, 519. [ 
London Missionar-v j 
Society 1 

BELLS, 617, 630-631, 640, 

BELPAHAR, 120. 

BELTJR, R.H., 525, 526. 
BENARES. Railway from 
Bombay and Cak .itta, 
Route 3 ; from Lucknow, 


20 (a) : from Allahabad, 2. 
D.B., 46, 60. 71, 379. 

Hotels: Clarke's H., H. 
de Paris, 8 rs-, both good, 
and under European man- 
agement generally. 

Bank : Bank 0/ Bengal. 
Missions; C.M.S. (at 
Sigra), St Mary’s is the 
Cantonment Church, Lon- 
don Mission, Wesleyan, 
Baptist, Zenana. R C 
Church. 

Hackney Carnages : 
available at the ry. sta, 
and hotels. 

Landaus — 2 rs. foi ist hr. 

I r. for each 
subsequent hr. 
Phaetons — i r. 3 as- for 1st 
hr,. 12 as. for 
each Subse- 
quent hr. To 
Sarnath and 
back, s rs. 

Lrocade Embroidery and 
Silk Man ufactu 7 'crs , 

Girdhar Das Hari Das is 
the best firm, but there 
are others. Bra.ss is best 
found in the Brass Ba7ar. 
BEX VRES, r.lAHARAJA OF, 63, 

6?- 71. 

BKXGAl. COAL, 55. 
bentinck, lord WM., cbi, 
80, 298. 548, 549. 
BENTOTA, R.H.. very 
good, 672. 

BERAR, 1 13, J14. 

REKARLl, 349 
BERHAMPORE (Bengal), 
D.B., 423. 

BE R HAM PUR (Ganjam), 
456- 

BERNIER, 222, 261, 266, 343. 
BESNAGAR, 143- 
BET, 216. 

BETTI AH. D.B., 420. 

BE rUL, 38. 

BEY POKE, s68. 

BEZWADA (R.) 

D.B., 458, 459, 516, 522. 

BHABUA, 53. 
BHAGALPUR, D.B,, 419. 

B HAG WAN PUR, 53. 
BHAJA CAVES, 462, 465. 
BHAhIBOR. ;63 
BHAMO, 632. 

Expre.ss -Steamboats from 
Mandalaj' everj)- Wednes- 
day, due at Bhamo Friday. 
Return from Bhamo every 
Saturday Ferri’-boatsalso 
run daily to and from Katha 
in connection with the rly. 



INDEX AND DIRECTORY 


BHANBARA ROAD, D.B., 

n6. 

BHANDUP, 50.- 
BHANGIR, 515. 
BHARATPUR, 218. 

D.B, outside the Muttra 
Gate. 

BHARHUT Stupa, 41 
B HAT IN da, 187, 352. 
BHAtJNAGAR, 205, 468. 

D.B. Horse and bullock 
shigrams to be had. 
BHAYANDAK,.28. 

BHILSA, 136. 

BHIMBAR, D.B., 342, 347, 
34S- 

BHIM TAL, 384. 

BHITA, 44. 

BHIWaNI, B.H., 351. 
BHOJEEPURA, 383 * 
BHOJPUR, 143. I 

BHOPAL (R.), 135 . I 

D.B. near riy. bta j 

flHOPAF., BE(;a»IS of. 136 . 

BHOR GHAT, ^o, 461. i 

BHUBANESWAR, xcix, 203 , i 
445. 448* 

BHUJ, 201. : 

BHUSAWAL (R.), 36, 1 13. I 
BHUTIA BASTI, 429. ! 

BIANA, lyot *48. 

BIBILE, R.H.. 667, 690. 
BIDAR, 505. 

BIDERRA, 98. 

BIJAPUR (R.), 475, 490-500, 

D.B.. with arrangements 
for food, in the town. 
Tongas are to had at the 
rly. sta. Fares whole day, 

2 rs. ; front station to any 
residence, 8 as. 

BIJNOR (D.B., accommoda- 
tion tolerable), 372. 
BIKANER, D.B., 187. 

niKfVN'ER, MR GANGA SINGH, 
MAHARAJA <»F, 187. 

BIKRAMPUR, 39. 
BlLAHRl. 40. 

BILASPUR (R.), 1 1 9. 

BILES WAR, 216. 
BIMLAPATAM, 457 - 
BIN A (R.), 143. 

BINDUSARA, 48. 

Ill REAL, RAJA, 246, 

BIR SINGH DEO 144 , 148 , I 58 . 

BIRUR, 523- 
BITHUR, 406, 407- 
BITRAGUNTA, 460. 

BLACK HOLE, THE. 76, 

90, 


BLACK PAGODA, 454 
BOBBILI, 457- 
BOLAN PASS, 368-369. 
BOLARUM, 514, 515. ‘ 

BOMBAY, .\ix, 1-22; see. 
Special Index, p, i. 

Railways: To Calcutta 
by G.I.P. and E.L Rlys 
Routes 2 and 7 ; to Poona. 
Madras, and Bangalore, by j 
G.I.P. and JZadras Rlys,^ ■ 
Routes 26 and 32 ; to A htna. ! 
dabad by B.B. and 
C.L, Rlys., Route 10; to 1 
Allahabad, Route 2 ; to 
.-\gra, Routes 9 and u {a) ; 
to Delhi, Routes 10 (i) and 

Hotels : Taj Mahal 

Palace H (Tata’s), near 
the ApoHo Bandar, one of 
the best in India; Watson ^ 
Esplanade dose to 

Secretariat : H. Majestic^ 
near Apollo Bandar. 
Matchanis CaHton H 
(residential), near Hornb) 
Road ; Great U^esterii JT 
ill ApolloStreet ; Apollo H , 

Restaurants : Victoria 
Station Restaurant , The 
Apollo, Apollo Bandar; 
Majestic', Green’s (near 
Yacht Club and Taj INIahal 
Hotel), Cornaglia, late 
Peliti (confectioner). 83 
Meadow St. 

Agents : Messrs 
Kin? Go , King’s 

Building, Hornby Road 
(branch of Henry S. Kin? 

Co.. 65 Corohill); 
Grind lay. Groom Co., 
Hornby Road ; Latham 
dr* Co., Apollo Street. 
Cox dr* Co. These firms 
undertake all business in 
connection with travelling 
and financial arrangements, 
forwarding of goods, engag- 
ing of Indian servants, etc,, 
in India. 

Tkos. Cook dr» Son, Es- 
planade Road, supply all 
kinds of information about 
excursions and^ tours in 
India, and provide circular 
tickets, etc. 

Bands : On certain days 
6f the week at the Yacht 
CluA and on the Esplanade, 
a f^llturite promenade ; aho 
at Victoria Gardens, By- 
culla. 

Bankers : Bank 0/ Bom- 
bay, Bank of Bengal, and 
Chartered Bank oj India, 


61 )9 


Elphinstone Circle ; Hon?- 
A'on^ and S han?kai Bank, 
40 Church Gate Street ; 
National Bank oj India, 
Rampart Row ; Mercantile 
Bank 0/ India, Esplanade 
Road ; Bank oJ Australia 
and China, Esplanade 
Road ; Comptoir National 
d Kscompte, Esplanade 
Road. 

Baths : Salt-water JTrww- 
niing Baths on Back Bay , 
and at Breach Ca?uiy 

Booksellers : Thacker 
Co.. Ltd., Esplanade Rd ; 
.-1. /. CombHdge Cu 
Hmnmam Street 

Chemists : Kemp er* Co , 
corner of Church Gate St 
and Elphinstone Circle ; 
Treacher Co., Esplanade 
Road ; Phillips c"' Co.. 
Esplanade Road. 

Churches, etc., see Spec- 
ial Index, ji. I. 

Clubs : Bycuila Club. 
BelJasis Road, Bjculla, 
with sleeping accommoda- 
tion attached. 

Bombay Club. 26 Esplan- 
ade. 

J "achtClub, On the ApoHo 
Bandar, ‘jveriooking the 
bay. Subscriptions for 
Strangers admitted as 
members, 16 rs. a month. 
Ladies are admitted when 
accompanied by a member 
or hon. member. 

The Bombay Gymkhana 
and Gol/ Club, Queens 
Road. Commeiciat 
khana. Japanese Gym- 
khana, Back Bay. 

Ladies' Gymkhana The 
Ridge, Malabar Hill, with 
lawn-tennis and badminton 
grounds A favourite resort 
in the evenings. Princess 
Ma?y {l<^dies ) Gymkhana, 
Back Bay. 

Consuls ; France, M, 
Charles Barret, Roosevelt 
House, Apollo Bandar. 

Italy, Sr, Giovanni Gorio, 
Marsaban Row. 

U.S.A., 

There are representatives 
of most other nations, in- 
cluding Japan and Persia. 

Conveyances : Carriages 
with a single horse, 5 rs. 



700 


INDEX AND DIRECTORY 


a day, with 2 horses, jo rs. 
There are plenty of victorias 
in the streets to be hired by 
the trip or for the hour at 
very moderate fixed fares — 
only 8 as inside the Fort 
limits. 

Taxis: Inside 5 m. radius. 
First mile, 8 as. and 6 as. : j 
each subsequent J m., aas. : ; 
halts, 1 anna for every * J 
and 3 minutes ; i r 14 as. I 
per hour. ! 

Motors : For morninct, 

15 IS. ; for afternoon, 20 rs. , 
for afternoon and evening, 

2D rs. ; for day of ta hrs , 

60 rs 

Doutists ; Campbell and 
Barr, Esplanade Road. 
Dr Giieesta. 

Greneral Stores: I'rea- 

cher (To., Artny and 
Navy Stores, Phillips SP 
Co,, all on the Esplanade, 

Hairdressers : PudU, 

under Bombay Club. 

Hospitals . .See Special 
Index, p. I. 

House Agen t : 

Flower, Huinmam St 
Iiibraries; Asiatic 
Society Library in the 
Town Hall : the Sassoon 
Institute, Esplanade, ad- 
joining Watswn’s Hotel 
(strangers can join the 
lending library for a week) 

Markets: Craw/onl for 
fruit, vegetables, flowers, 
poultry, meat, etc XaL in 
Sandhurst Road 
Cloth, in Indian Quarter, 
Shaikh Memon Street, 

Copper close to Momba- 
devi Tank, Ind’an Quarter 
Cotton market, Colaba 
Medical Men : D?- SIP 
my Smith, Mpzagon Road, 
Dr Dim mock. Dr Chihie, 
Dr Bar,y 

Milliners, Dressmakers, ! 
etc.. Laid law dr® lChite~ { 
svay. Esplanade ] Badham 
dr® Co. 

Missions, etc , see p. 21. 
Newspapers • There are 
two leading English papers 
tn Bombay, the Times 0} 
India and the Bombav 
Gazette, besides a number 
of Indian papers. The 
Advocate of^ India is an ! 
E igbsh evening paper 

Nurses: The “ All 1 

'>aints .Sisteis : see p. 21 j 


Oculist : Major Alac- 
pkerson. 

Opticians : Lazocnce IP 
Mayo ; Marcks IP Co. — 
both in Esplanade Road. 1 

Outfitters : Badham Ip 
P ile, Limited; Asquith IP 
Co. ; Laidlatv IP White- 
zvay , Hoar IP Co . — ail in 
Esplanade Road. 

Pliofcograpliers : Raja 
Dindiyal. Bour7ie fir® Shep- 
herd, 18 Esplanade Road. 
Cernon, Esplanade Road. 

Stables: The Arab, in 
B^culla ; see p. 17- 

Steamship Agencies : 
P. «3r® O. S.S. Co., 19 Ram- j 
part Row. Steamers every | 
week to Aden, Ismailia 1 
Port Said, Ffrindisi, Mar- j 
ieilic.s, Gibraliar, PK- 
mouth, and London ; and 
every fortnight to .Malta, 
Colombo, Aladras, Cal- 
cutta, Straits Settle- 
ments, China, Japan, and 
Australia, 

British Dtdia S.N. Co.. 
Mackmnon, Macken7ie & | 
Co., Ballard Road, for Cal- 
cutta, and coa.st ports, 
Karachi, Persiaj. Gulf, 
Burma, and E Coast of 
Africa. 

Hall and Ellerman s 
City Lines, Killick Nixon, 
Home Street. 

Messa^eries Ma ri times , 
Albert Buildings. Hornby 
Road. 

societa Nationale di ' 
Serznzi Mnrittimi (RubaL 
tino). Elphinstone Circle, 

Wilson Line q/Steainers, 
Fi.olay, Muir &: Co., 
Esplanade. To Karachi, 
Middiesbro or Hull every 
fortnight, i 

Anchor iHne 0/ j 
Steamers, \V. & A Graham 
<S: Co., Graham’s Buildings. ; 

Bombay Steam Navi^a- ' 
lion Co. (Shepherd & Co.), 
Frere Road — for neighbour- 
hood of Bombay, Ratna- 
giri, Goa, Mangalore. 

Nippon Yusen Kaisha. 
to China and Japan. Hornbv 
Road. 

Theatres: The ^iety 
and the Novelty, the 

Viitoria sta. at the S, 
end of Esplanade .Market 
I<oad. the Alexandra near 
(' T.i w ford Market, the 
Indian Theatre in Grant 


Road, and man\’ Cinemato- 
graph Theatres. 

Tourist Office : Messrs 
T. Cook Ip Son, opposite 
Esplanade H. , are also 
agent'' fur rly. tickets 
and all kinds of information 
in connection with excur- 
sions and tours {eg. to 
bllephanta and Kanheri). 

Tramways run from end 
to end of Bombay, and ex- 
tend from Colaba and the 
Tort to Giant Road, to 
Pat ell. and to the Dock.^. 
They are not much used ’oy 
higher classes of Europeans. 

Wine Merchants : Pkip- 
son IP Co. and Treacher 
Ip Co., in Esplanade Road. 

BORIVLI, 27 
EOSTAN (R)., 370. 

BOTAH. 202. 

BOUGHT O.^t, DR G. , 97, 374 

443- 

BGURQUIN, L., 252, 293. 
BOWRINGPET, sBb- 
See Kolar Gold Fields. 
BKAG ^N/ C-ATMER1IS£ of, 2. 

BRAH.MAN CAVES, 106 

BRAHMAPUTRA RIVER, 

441. 

BRINDABAN, 227 
BRINDISI, xliii. 

BROACH, 165. 

D.B. in town. Waiting 
Room at sta. 

BROADFOOT, MAJOR G., 353, 

556. 

BUDDH GAYA, 51, 83-84. 
BUDDHA (Gautama or Gaud- 
ama in Burma), Ixwii, 

I Ixxxv, 51, 52. 57, 58, 59> 

71, 72, 83, 104, 105, *06, 
310, 329. 337, 361, 375. 376, 
377> 397. 421. 431. 447, 458, 
61S, 623, 628, 629, 638. 642, 
6S4, 688. 

BUDDHISI caves, 26, 34*35, 
50, 56, 104, 106, III, 207, 
445, 446, 447, 458, 462*465- 

BUDDHIST TEMPI ES, 5I, lOO, 

635, 661, 676, 6S4. 

BUDDHIST TOPES, See Stupa*:. 

BUDGE BUDGE. 99. 
BUKKUR ISLAND (R ), 
D.B., 365. 

BUNDELKHAND PRO- 
VINCE, 144, t6t. 

BUNDI, 134. 



701 


INDEX AND DIKECTORY 


BURDWAN (E.). D B., 55 * 

Ht’RD\\AN', ’.JAUAKAjA t>I , 55- 

LURGKSS, DK j., 26, i68, and 
passim. 

BUBHAEPUB, D.B., 36, 232. 
BUTTALA, R.H. (good;, 
690. 

BUXAR, R., 47, 386. 

D.B. near Fort. 


C 

CAf.KAl., 5':>5 i 567- 
CACHAK, D.B., 438* j 

CALCUTTA, xix. 54-56^ 75- 
See bpeciaJ Index, p 75. 

Railways From Bom- 
bay by Allaliabad and b^' 
Nagpur, Routes 2 and 7 ; 
honi Madras, Route 25 ; 
from Darjeeling, Route 
23 id) ; from Dacca, Route 
24; from Lucknow and 
Benare'^, Kts. 20 (a) and 4. 

Hotels: Tbe Grand 
which has been rebuilt, 
largely extended, and fur- 
nished in magnificent style, 
and is provided with all 
inoderii convenience^, is a 
really first-claSs Hotel, The 
cuisine is distinctly goud : 

8 rs., H Continental^ 8 rs. . 
both in Chowringhi; The 
Great Kastern //., Old 
Court House Street, good ; 
Spencers //., Wellesley , 
Place, moderate ; Bristol j 
//., I Chowringhi, not resj- 1 
denlial, but the food ii ! 
good. At one time the ' 
Hotels in. Calcutta were dis- 
appointing, but of late years 
great enterprise has been 
manifested in this direction, 
and vast iniprov^pients have 
taken place at the Orami ■ 
and the Great Easter^i. 
Electric fans usually 1 r, 
per diem. 

Boarding Houses are j 
numerous, and are often . 
prcfeired to hotels, especi- j 
ally for a lengthened stay [ 
in Calcutta, The approxi- i 
mate charges are 175 rs. [ 
a month, or 7 rs. a day, for 
board and lodging (wine not 
included). In the height 
of the season, about Christ- 
mas time, charges some- 
times run up to 9 rs. and ^ 
10 rs. a day, and accom- 


modation must be secured 
weeks beforehand. Meals 
are taken together as a rule, 
but in some houses suites 
or single rooms may be en- 
gaged, with meals served 
in private. 

Mrs Walters, i and 2 
Little Russell Street, and 
43 Theatre Road ; Mrs 
Pells, I Camac Street, u 
Middleton Row ; Mrs 
Lord, 233 Lower Circular 
Road , Mrs Campbell 
Bedford House, 1 Theatre 
Road ; Outram House, 26 
and 27 Camac Street ; Mrs 
Blake, 3 Wood Street, 11 
Short Street, and 25 Camac 
Street, and Mrs Baily. lo 
Middleton Row. 

Residential Flats are now 

built in comfortable, up- 


buildings are very fine. 
Esplanade Mansions, Ezra 
Mansions (both in Dovt. 
Place, E.). Chowringhi 
Mansions, Park Mansions ! 
(Park Street), Harrington 
Mansions (H arrington 
Street 


Restaurant and Con- 
fectioners : Peliti, II Govt 
Place; Crt. Eastern H.. 
Grand Cafe attached to 
Grand Hotel, entrance 
Corporation Place ; Tro~ 
cadero,^ lo-ii Esplanade 
East ; Bristol Grill Lyon s 
Range; Empire Restaur- 
ant, Hindustan Insurance 
Buildings, Hogg Street ; 
Hotel Continental 12 
Chowringhi ; Morello, Park 


Street. 

Bankers and Agents : 
Grindlay Co,, ii Ha-t- 
ing5 Street. 

Kin^, Hamilton and 
Co, (Branch of Henry S 
King & Co., 05 CornhiII), 
4 5 Koila Ghat Street, 

undertake all, business in 
connection with travelling 
and financial arrangements 
for travellers in India. 

T Cook ^ bon, 9 Old 
Court House Street, supply 
all kinds of information 
about excursions and tours 
in India, and provide circu- 
lar tickets, etc. , , ,, 

Cox Co., 5 Bankshall 
Street, shipping passage, 
agency arul banking busi* 


ness. 


Banks : Bank of Benga l, 
3 Strand; Ch, Bankofli^ia, 
Australia, and China, 5 
Clive St. ; Merc. Bank of 
India, Ltd., 28 Dalhousie 
Sq., ; Delhi and London 
Rank., 4 Council House 
St. ; Hong - Kong and 
Shanghai Banking Cor- 
por., 31 Dalhousie Sq., 
National Bk, of India, 104 
Clive St. ; A Uiance Bk. of 
Simla, 5 Council House 
Allahabad Bk., 101-2 
Clive St. 

Bath : An excellent 

Swimming Bath on the Es- 
planade, admission through 
members. 

Booksellers and Sta- 
tioners ; Thacker, Spyik, 
Co,, Esplanade East; 
W. Newman Co . , 

Dalhousie Sq. 

Chemists : R. Scott 

Thomson cr» Co., 15 
Chowringhi Road ; F?ank 
Ross &= Co., 16 Chowringhi; 
Bathgate eg Cc., Old 
Court House St. ; Smith 
Stanistreet. Dalhousie Sq. 

Churches : (Anglican) 
— St Pauls Cathedral; 
St John s Church, formerly 
the Cathedral ; The Old 
Church (C.M.S.); St 
Pettrs. in the Fort ; St 
Thomas s {th.^ Free School 
Church). 

(Chlrch oi- Scotland) 
—St Andrew's, Dalhousie 
Sq. ; U.F Church if Scot- 
land, Wellesley Sq,, Manse, 
Park St. 

Others: The Wesleyan 
Church, the Bapt’stChapel 
Lai Bazar and Circular 
Road : C ongrtgat tonal 

Un io n Ch ape I, D harm - 
tollav^ Ha-fings; A merican 
Meth. Episcopal Dharm- 
tolla; R.C., Middleton 
Row ; Portuguese Church 
Street ; Dharmtolla Rd. 

Clubs (Residential) : Ben- 
gal Club, 33 Chowringhi 
Road, S. side of Esplanade. 
The houses, to Park St. 
and I Russell St., are 
fitted as chambers for resi- 
dents : 33 Chowringhi 

Road contains bedroom > 
for members. Members of 
this Club are hon. members 
of the Madras, Byculla, 
H ong-Kong, and Shanghai 
Clubs, a.nd t/ice versa. 



702 


INDEX AND DiftECTORY 


1 he United Service I 
Club. 31 Chowringhi Road. 
Attached to it i<; i Kyd 1 
.Street. ! 

C atcutta Club, 241 Lower 1 
Circular Road (built for the ; 
Club), open to European.s j 
and Indians j 

Consnls : France, Mons. 
H. Le Feuvre Meaulie, 
Office, 7 Chowringhi Road. 

Italy, Marquis F. Medici 
di Marighano, 7 Hare 
Street. 

U.S.A., Mr James A. 
Smith, Office, g Esplanade 
Mansions. 

All leading countries are 
represented at Calcutta 
by Consuls. 

Conveyances : Motors 
can be hired at about 10 rs. 
per hr., or 60 rs. per day of 
8 hrs., of the French Motor 
Car Co., 55 Bentinck St., 
and of the British Engineer- j 
ingCo.,47 Bentinck Street. ^ 
Taxi-cabs can be hired at 
rates of 10 as. per m. ist 
class, and 2 as. for every 
subsequent fifth of a mile : 
detention, 2 as, for every 
4 minutes, or i r. 14 as, 
per hr. Carriages can be 
hired at from 6rs. to 15 rs. a 
day. Cabs (commonly called 
ticca gharries) are plenti- ; 
ful ; charges are ; I 

By time — J 

Class I. II. 

Tst hr. . I r. 12 as. 

Subs. hr. . 8 as. 6 as. 

Half-day 3 rs. 2 rs. 

Day . , 5 ss, 3 rs. 8 as. 

By distance — 

Class I, II. 

1st mile . . 8 as. 6 as. 

Subs, miles 6 as. 4 as. 

Dentists: //. Pedler, 35 
Chowringhi Road ; Smith 
Bros., g Chowringhi Rd. ; 
Metropolitan Dental Co , 

2 Corporation Street. 


Drapers: Clark e- Co,, 
Old Court House Street ; 
Francis, Harrison, Hatha- 
•ivay Or Co., Government 
Place ; Wkiteway Laid- 
Chowringhi ; Hall 
cr* Anderson, Chowringhi * 
and Hazy Stores 
i-nowringhi. 


H^dressers : ]Vatsc 
2 Summers, Old Cou 
House St. ; Voud Co 


Hare Street ; A. U. Cutler 
Co., Chowringhi. 
Jewellers, Silversmitlis, 
and Watclimakers : Ham- 
ilton Co,, Old Court 
House St. ; Cooke Kei- 
z'ey, Old Court House St. ; 
Boseck Co., Wellesley 
Place ; James Murray Sr- 
Co., Government Place, E.; 
Garrard Sr‘ Co., 2 Dal- 
housie Square. 

Lady Doctors : Miss 
IV ibb. Superintendent Lady 
Dufferin Victoria Hospital, 

I Amherst Street ; Miss 
Ada IVhite, 9 Waverley 
Mansions, Corporation St. 

Medical Men Lt.- Col 
Green, 6 Harington Street ; 
Col. E. H. Brown 
4 Harington Street; Lt.- 
CoL F, P, Maynard, 
6 Little Russell Street: 
Lt. - CMkr F. O' Finealy, 
Presidency General Hospi- 
tal ; Lt, Col, Sir I.,eonard 
Rogers, II El3'sium Row ; 
I^t.-Col, J, S. Calvert, 
Medical College ; Dr 
Caddy and Dr Houseman, 
2/2 Harington Street. 

Missions: Oxford Mis- 
sion, 42 Cornwallis Street. 
The clergy have charge of 
a Boys’ High School, an 
Industrial School for 
Indians, and St James’s 
School for Eurasians — all 
in the city; and of village 
schools in the Sundarbans 
3 m. off. The Superior 
is Princii^I of Bishop’s 
College, Circular Road. 

S P ,G. 224 Lower Cir- 

cular Road. 

The C leaver Sisters, 
working since 1S81, nurse 

the General Hospital, Medi- 
cal College Hospital, and 
Eden Hospital, and have 
^arge of the Canning 
Home for Nurses, European 
Girls' Orphanage, and Pratt 
Memorial School. In 1890 
they took over from the 
Ladies' Assocn, {S,P.G.) 
their work. 

C.M,S,, 10 Mission Row. 
Divinity School, Old 
Church, Trinity Church, 
and Christ’s Church, 
Boys’ and Girls’ Schools. 

Church 0/ Scotland. 
Cornwallis Square. 

U.F. Church 0/ Scot- 
land, 2 Cornwallis Square, 

Baptist Mission Society, 

42 Lower Circular Road. 


Indian Booksellers: s. 
F. Lahiri < 5 ^ Co., 56 
College Street. 

Newspapers: The Eng- 
lishman, g Hare St., the 
leading paper in Bengal ; 
Indian Daily News, 19 
British India St. ; States- 
man, 8 Chowringhi Road; 
The Asian, devoted to sport 
and planting interests; 
tal, I Commercial Build- 
mgs, the leading paper on 
finance, trade, and com- 
merce. The leading Indian 
papers in English wc^—The 
Bengali Indian Mirror, 
Amnia Bazar Pair ika. 

Opticians : Lawrence 
Mayo ; Solomons ^ Co. : 
N. I^azarus, li' alter 
Bushnell James Murray 
e-’ Co. 

Outfitters: /Vr/<rr.5'///«- 

son < 5 ^ Co, ; Harry Clark 
Co. ; Ranken Co., 
Old Court House Street ; 
IVhiteway, Laidlaw 
Co., Chowringhi ; A rmy Sr 
Navy Stores, Chowringhi 
and Middleton Street ; 
Francis Harrison Hatha- 
w>ay, 13 Government Place; 
Hall Sr Anderson, 31 
Chowringhi. 

Photographers : John- 
ston drJ Hoffmann, 22 
Chowringhi Road ; Bourne 
C3^ Shepherd, 9 Chowringhi 
Road. 

Photographic Appara- 
tus : IV. Newman Co., 
Dalhousie Sq. ; John Blees, 

2 Hare St. ; Smith, Stani- 
street cr* Co., Dalhousie 
Square; Bathgate Co.. 
Old Court Hou-se .'Street. 

Societies : Charitable 
AND Religious. — Besides 
the Societies mentioned 
above, the followung have 
their Indian headquarters 
in Calcutta — The Addi- 
tional Clergy Society ; The 
Methodist Episcopal Mis- 
sion ; The London Mis- 
sionary Society; The Wes- 
leyan M issions ; several 
special Zenana Missions. 

Scientific, etc. — The 
Asiatic Society, Park 
Street, founded by Sir 
William Jones; The Micro- 
scopical Society and the 
Photographic Society have 
rooms in the same building. 



Index and directory 


703 


SteamsMp Agencies 

(General). 

P. O. and British 
India S.N. Companies 
(combined). Mail ind 
passenger services 10 coast 
Ports in India and Burma, 
between India, China, 
Straits Settlements, Ceylon, 
Japan, Java, Australia, E. 
and S. Africa, Persian 
Gulf, Aden, Port Said, 
Ej^ypt, Marseilles. Ply- 
mouthand London: Agents, 
Mackinnon^ Mackenzie 
<27^ Co.^ 16 Strand. 

£ Herman s Hall&^ City 
Lines 0/ .S’. A,, Gladstone^ 
Wyllie Co.^ loi Clive St. 

Clan Line S learners, 
Finlay Muir Co., i 
Clive St. 

Messageries Mari times, 
5-6 Hare St. 

Anchor Line, Graham 
Co., 9 Clive St. 

Steamsliip Agencies 
(Local): Fiver S.l\. Co., 
Macneill Co., 2 Clive 
Ghat St. 

Orissa Carrying Com- 
pany s Steamers, Macneill 
Co., plying between Cal- 
cutta and Chandbally. 

Calcutta S.N. Co., 
Hoare, Miller Co., 

38 Strand Road. 

Tailors : Ranken ^ Co., 
4 Old Court House St. ; 
Harvy Clark, do. do. ; 
W. H. Phelps 'Cr- Co., 15 
do. do. ; Har^nan 6^ 
Co., 12 Govt, Place, E.; 
Williaui Heath, Park 
House, Park Street; Har- 
nack &A Co . ; Macjie 
Macdonald, Old Court 
House Street. 

Theatres : The Corin- 
thian, Dharmtolla; The 
Royal, Chowringhi Road ; 
The Empire Theatre, con- 
structed on the model of the 
best European theatres, 
with all modern appliances. 
Corporation Place (off 
Chowringhi); The Grand 
Opera House, Lindsay 
Street. Indian Theatres 
are chiefly in Beadon St. 

CALICUT , 2, 5^8. 

Hotel : Mr P, Canarens 
Empress H., near the 
Beach. Good D.B. 

Steamship Ag;ents : 
Andrew Co. : B.I.S.N^. 
Co. 


CAMBAY, 170. i 

CAMPBELL, SIR COLIN, LORD 
CLYDE, chi, cliii, 80, 326, 
387*328, 393-396, 399, 400, 
4TI, 412-413. 

CA.MPBELL, SIR G., 79, 92. 
CAMPBELLPUR CaNTO.N'MEN T, 

334* 

CAMP0LI,462. 

CANNANOBE, 570. 

D.B. good. 

Hotel: Esplanade. 
CANNING, LADY, 90, 94, 412, 
428. 

CANNING. LORD, cl, C.iii, 
80, 8r, 115, 412. 

CAPE BON, xliii. , 

CAPE COMORIN, 598. \ 

2nd class. D.B , and Tra- j 
vancorebtate Guest-House. 
CAPE FEZ, xliii. 

CAPE F I N I S T E R R E, 

XXXIX. 

CAPE LA HAGUE, xxxix. 
CAPE ROCA, xxxix, 

CAPE ST VINCENT, 
xxxi.x. 

CAPE TRAFALGAR, 

xxxix. 

CAPES, SEVEN, xliii. 

CARMICHAEL, LORD, 79, 87. 
CAR-MICHAEL, SERGEANT, 258. 
CARNAC, SIR J., 10. 

CARNATIC, NAWABS OF, 538, 

549, 573, 5S6. 

CASTE, Ixvi. 

C.^STLE ROCK (R.), 4S6. 
CAUVERY FALLS, D. B. , 53 1 • 

Tonga from Maddur 
(not always available— order 
beforehand). 

CAVES, BUDDHIST, 26, 34, 35, 
50, 30, 104, 106, in, 207, 
445, 446, 458, 463*465, 600, 
642, 679. 

BRAHMAN, 25*24, = 6 , 

to6, 500-502, 600 

JAIN, 109, 445 , 447 , 502- 

CAWNPORE, cli-cliii, 147, 
149, 406 (R. good). 

Railways : From Delhi 
and Agra and to Allahabad, 
Route 22. F rom Lucknow. 
Route 22. 

Hotels : Civil and Mili- 
tary, the best, 5 rs. ; Em- 
press H. (Lee’s)— all poor. 


Club: Cawnport C., 

Mall. 

Banks: Bengal, Allaha- 
bad, National Bank of 
India, Alliance Bank of 
Simla. 

Hackney Carriages : 

By distance — 

Class I. IL 
Per mile . 8 as. 6 as. 

By time — 

Class I, 

ist hour or part . i r. 
every subsequent 

hour or part . . 8 as. 

Class II. 

Car Tonga 
1st hr. or part 12 as. 10 as. 
everj'^ subsequent 

hour or part 8 as. 6 as. 
Missions: the S.P.G. 
(Mission House, Christ 
Church) have charge of 
Christ Church School, 
Generalganj School, and a 
Girls’ Boarding School. 

The Ladies Association 
{S.P.G.) have six schools 
and work in the Zenanas. 

Woman's Union Mis- 
sionary Society of A merica. 
Methodist Epis. Mission. 
R.C. Church. 

CEYLON, XX ii, 650. 

CH AIB AS A , 121. 
CHAINPUR, 53. 

CHAIT SINGH, RAJA, 46, 62, 63, 

65, 72. 

CHAKDARRA FORT, 336. 
CHAKOTHI, D.B., 343. 
CHAKRADARPDR, 120 
CHAKRATA, D.B., 382. 
CHALISGAON, 35. 

CHAM AN, 370. 

CHAM BA, D.B., 304. 

CHAMBERLAIN, GEN. SIR N., 

255, 338. 

CHAMPA, 120. 
CHAMPANIR, 167. 
CHAMUNDI, 535. 
CHANAK, 94. 

CHANDA, D.B. , 1J4. 
CHANDAUSI (B), 373, 403. 
CHANDERNA(jORE, 56, 97, 
577- 

Two Hotels in Fort, 

I CHANDIL, 121. 

I CHANDNI,37. 

I CHANDOD, 167. 
j CHANDPUR, 437. 
CHANDBAGIBI, 478, S27, 
548. 



INDEX AND DIRECTORY 


704 


C H A N D R A G U P T A, 

Ixxxvi, 43, 166, 527. 
CHAKGAS SARAL D,B.. 
348. 

CHAPPAR RIFT. 371, 
CHAPRA, i2i. 

CHAKf ES n., KINO, 2. 
CHARNOCK, JOB, 76, 90, 94, 

C HAT R A PUR, 456 
CHATTISGARH, 115, no. 
CHAUMUKH, 349. 
CHAVAKACHCHERI. 

B.H. good, 6S5. 

CHAYA, 216. 

CHENG ALA DI, 667. 

C HEN N AR AVAPAT* 
NAM, 527. 

CHE RAT, D.B., 357. 
CHERRAPUNJl^ 439. 

D.B. Commodious, with 
servants. 

CHHAPARA, u8. 
CHHiiVLWARA, 118. 
<^HICACOLE, 456. 

CHIDAMBARAM, 579. 

D.B. m. from rly, sta. 
CHIKALDA, 1 14. 
CHILAW, B.H. good, 676, 
CHIUANWALA, 326. 
CHILKA LAKE, 455. 
CHINDWIN, 646. 
CHINGLEPtJT (R. ), D.B. 

good, 540, 547, 57J. 
CHINHAT, 388, 401. 

CH INSURA, 97, 98 

CHfSHTI SAINTS, igo, 244, 
246, 247, 273, 29s, 354, 402, 

436, 475. 

CHITALDRUG, 533. 
CHITORGARH, 126, 128, 

-3^, 237, 243. 

D.B, \ m. from rly. sta., 
belonging to Udaipur State 
fair. 

For permission to see the 
fort, and for the use of the 
elephant, which is kept at 
the place by the Darbar for 
the use of \ Liters, appli- 
cation must be made to the 
Hakim (chief official) on 
the spot. 

CHITTAGONG, D.B., 438. 
Club : Chittagong C. 
B&uRs r Sank of BengaL, 
National Bank of I ndia> 
Missions; Baptist, nx. 

Church, 

CHITTAPUR, 505, 
CHITTOOR, 536. 


; CHORAL, 124. 

I LHOTA.N.AGPUR, 122. 

I Mission : Headquarters 
1 of Trinity College Duhhn j 

! ^fission. [ 

I CHUNAR, 46, 62, 63. 1 

' CKEKK, SIR G. K,, 5. 

CLIFTON. 364, j 

CJ n K. LORD, 3, 76, 88, 90, 95, j 
lUo, 422-424, 477, 53S-54O. ; 
549 ' 55 i< 573 , 586. 

COAL, 39, 55, too, II4, 439. 

COCANADA (R.H.), 457. 
45S- 

Bank : Madras. 

COCHIK, 468, 565-566 

D.B. fair. Club. 

Cburcii : £ng. Church : 
KX. Cathedral. 

Steamers: B.IX.N. Co. 

COCKBUBN’S AGENCY, 

342- 

COIMBATORE, D.B., 560. 

COLOMBO, 654. 

Hotels: Grand Oriental 
H. (usually known as the 
G.O.H.), very good ; ex- 
cellent cuisine. 

Bristol H., good. 

Galle Pace //., quieter 
and in a pleasanter situation 
than the G.O.H., close to 
the sea. m. from the land- 
ing- place. There ts a 
swimming bath attached tu 
the hotel. 

The Grand H. at Mount 
Lavima,, 7 m. distant 
b^' rail from Colombo, 
is much frequented bj 
I \isitors. It is delightfulli’^ 

situated on a promontory 
overlooking the sea. Ex- 
cellent fish tiffins on 
Sundays. 

Agents : // u \ Ca-r 
Co,, for Henry S. King 
\ & Co. ; Tkos, Cook id 

\ Son . ; George Sieuart cs 

' Co., 14 Queen St., for 

i Coutts & Co , Cox & Co., 

; Grmdlay & Co., I^ondon 

Countj’ Bank, etc. 

Banks : National Bank 
of India. Lid. ; Bank of 
M aiiras : flongkong and 
Shanghai Bank: C bartered 
Bank of India Australia.., 
and China ; Mercantile 
Bank of India. Ltd. 

Cbemists : Colombo A po. 
thecaries' Co,, Ltd. ; 
Cargills, Ltd.: Miller er* 
Co. 

I Churches: St Thomas's 
, Cathedral, Mutw'al ; .S’. 


Peter's, The E ort ; Christ 
Church (C.a/'.A.): Trinity 
Church, Maradana ; S. 
Michaels, Poluatte ; and 
others. 

5^ Lucia (R.G. Cathe- 
D KA l), St Philip Nert (most 
convenient for visitors), and 
many others. 

(Church of Scot; and) 
— St Andrew's, near the 
Galle Face Hotel. 

(N ONCONFORMIST)— HVj- 
Icyan, Colpetty and Pettah ; 
Baptist, Cinnamon Gar- 
dens; Dutch Church, Wolf- 
endahl ; and others. 

Clubs : the Colombo C. 
on the Galle Face. 

Golf C. a m. from The 
Fort. Also the Garden Club 
and Princes Club. 


Consuls : 

A merica 
pLdgium 
Bolivia 

Chile . }• 

I tenmari 
France 
Daly . 
Japan ■ 
Me.xit o 
Netherlands 
and Swede fi 
Nomvay 


.1. A. Nye. 

P. de Bure. 

\V. W. Mitchell. 
T. H. .A, de 
Soysa. 

H. Houiberg. 
P- de Bure, 
F.dward Chai/e. 
A. W'arden. 

W. E. Mitchell 

I S. P Hayley. 
E- B. Creasy. 


Persia . 

Portugal 
Siam . 


) M. I. Mobam- 
/ med Ali. 

. A. Shairp. 

. T. S. Clark. 


Dentists: Dr II. n\ 
Atkins Smith, at the 
G.O.H,; Dr Sidney Game, 
Bristol Hotel. 


Doctors: D. Rocknvood; 
F. Grenier; P. IF. 
Mazthezu. 


Booksellers, Stationers, 
etc, H. IF. Cave er' Co.. 
Queen St. , and the Colombo 
Apothecaries' Co. Ltd. 

General Outfitters : 
Cargills, Ltd. (ahso at 
Kandy and Nuwara Eliya): 
Xhiteaivay, Laidiaw 
Co,; Miller Co ; Smith, 
Campbell c~ Co. (all three 
also at Kand\). 

General Stores: Car^ 
gills. Ltd, (also Kandy and 
Nuwara Eliya); Miller SF 
Co. (also Kandy); White’ 
away, Laidiaw df Co. 
(also at Kandy) ; Colombo 
Apothecaries Cc., Ltd. 
(also Kandy). 

Hackney Carriages : 50 

c. for e%ery b^lf hour : 5 rs. 



INDEX AND DIRECTORY 


705 


for every 6 bis. between 6 
A.M , and 12 midnight (with- 
in Municipality). For a 
trip to Mount Lavinia or 
Kelaniya and back, 7rs. 50 
as. These rates refer to 
single-horse carriages with- 
out rubber tyres. 

Hospitals : Gefural Civil 
Hospital, with three wards 
for Europeans ; Eye Hos- 
pital. 

Ivories, Tortoiseshell 
Jewellery, Moonstones, 
etc.: N. IV. H. .A.bdul 
Kapur, Main St. ; O. L. 
M. Macan Marcar, at the 

G.O.H. 

Missions: S.P.G., St 
Thomas’s College ; Mount 
Lavinia; C M.S., Galle 
Face, Christ Church ; jSt. 
Luke's, and several schools. 

E. Grinstead Sisters, 
Schools and Orphanage (at 
Pol watte). 

Motors. I'Valker, Sons cr' 
Co. Ltd. ; Brown Co. 
Lid. 

Photographers: F.Skecn 
Co , 41 Chatham St., 
Fort; Plate Lso, Colpetty ; 
Colonial Photographic 
Studio, York St. 

Railway and Coaching 
Rates and Carriage and 
Rickshaw Fares : see The 
Pocket Titne and Fart 
Table, 10 cents ; published 
by Government. 

Steamship Agencies : 
The P. ^ O. S.N. Co. 
olBce is in the Victoria 
Arcade, opposite the G O.H. 
and the Messageries at No. 

5 Prince Street. 
Afessageries Afarititnes. 

Agent, De Bure. 

Orient A pent, Whittall 

6 Co. 

Bibby Line. Agents, 
Carson & Co. 

British India S.N. Co 
Agents, Alackhinon Alac- 
kenzie. Arcade Buildings. 

Ellerman s Hail and 
C i ty Lines. .Agents, 
Aitken, SjJence & Co. 

Anchor Line. Agents, 
Delmege, Forsyth & Co. 

Clan Line. Agents, ysA. 
Finlay & Co. 

COLVIN, j. R., 41-42, So, 232, 

237- 

COMBERMERE, GENL. LORD? 

2r8, 295. 

COMINO, xliii. 

CONJEBVERAM, 540, 573 - 


R.H. here, and good 
w’aiting- room at station. 
Conjeeveram can be visited 
from Chingleput or 
Arkonam. 

CONNAUGHT, DUKE OF, 133. 

15 I> 3 II- 
CONTAI, 442 
COOCH BEHAR, 441 
COONOOR (R.), 361. 

Hotels : Glenview H . , 
Gray's H., Hill Grove H. 
(all good). 

Coonoor Club. 

Pasteur Institute. 

COORG. 535. 

COC^TE, SIR EYRE, 479, 54Q, 
573 , 574 , 576, 579 - 

CORBETT, BRIG. -GENL , 320. 
CORNWALLIS. MARQUIS, 9 , 
81, 420, 529, 533-534- 549, 

551, 556. 

COKYAT, T.. 164-165, i8q. 

COSSIFORE, 77, 95- 

COTTON, BRIG. -GENL. S., 33S 
COTTON. SIR A., 458, 589 
CUBDON, GENL. MARK, 529. 

CUDDALORE, D.B., 578 
Steamship Agents : 
B.I.S.N. Co., Parry & Co. 
CUDDAPAH, D.B., 477. 
CUMBUM, 521- 

CU.NNINGHAM, GENL. SIR A,, 

44, 72, 136, 147, 152, 154, 
155, 161, 281, 296, 310, 324, 
326, 329, 355, 380. 

CURZON, LORD, cviii, cix, cNv- ; 
clxvi. 43, 48, 86, 87, 90, 91, 
190. 206, 234, 261, 263, 

316, 319, 422. 

CUTCH, 201. 

CUTTACK (R.), D.B., 444. 
Club: within the Fort 
enclosure. 

Missions : Orissa Bap- 
tist, R.C. Church 


D 

DABHEJI, 363- 
DABHOI, 167. 

DABO, 361 
DABOK, 131. 

DACCA, 435. 

D.B, near rly. sta. 

Club : Dacca C. 

Bank : Bank of Bengal. 
Hackney Carriages : ist 
hr., 12 as. ; subsequenthrs., 
6 as. Half-dav.-,- 2rs. ; day, 
3 rs. 8 as. 

Missions : Baptist ; R.C. 
Cathedral. 

DACCA NAWABS, 435 - 

2V 


DAGSHAI, 288. 

DAKOR, X70. 

DALHA HILL, 119. 
DALHOUSIE, 304. 

Hotels: Strawberry 

Bank H. ; Springfield H. ; 
Grandviezo H. (best). 

Between Pathankot and 
Dalhousie it is most con- 
venient to sleep at the hotel 
at Danera. 

DALHOUSIE, MARQUIS OF, 

cxlvi-cxlvii. cixii, 89, 534, 
609. 

DAL LAKE, 345. 

DALMA HILL, 121. 
DALTONGANJ, 47, 55. 
DAMAN ROAD, 162. 

D.B. beyond town at 
mouth of river (good). 
DAMBOOL or DAMBULLA, 
R.H. excellent, 679. 
DAMODAR RIVER, 100. 
DAMOH, 143. 

DANERA, D.B., 304. 
DARBHANGA, 420. 

DARBHANGA, MAHARAJA OF, 
66 , 420. * 

DAREKAbA, 118. 
DARJEELING, 427, 428, 430 
Hotels ; Woodlands H. , 
good, wdth fine views ; 
Drum Druid H. ; Rock- 
ville H. ; Central H. ; 
Bellevue H. ; Alount 
Everest H. ; Park H. ; 
Benmorc H. 

Boarding Houses : Ada 

Villa; Boscolo's (good 
cooking), Beechivood; Alice 
Villa; Annandale , The 
Labyrinth. 

Clubs : Darjeeling C., 
Auckland Road ; Gymk- 
hana C. ; and Station C. 
Masonic Lodge : Mount 
* Ezjcrest, 2439, E C. 

Bank : .Alliance Bank 
0/ Simla. 

Chemists : Robtru, 

Smith, Stanisireet Co. , 
B'rank Ross. 

Outfitters : Whiteaway, 
Laidlaw Co. : Francis, 
Harrison, Hathaway 
Co.; Hall Anderson, 
Mitchell Co.; Jetmul 
^ Bhojraj. 

Churches: Scotch 
Church; R.C. Church; 
St Andrews, English; St 
Columbals, Scotch; Union 
Aletkodist ; Loreito, R.C., 
Jalapahar Cantonment ; 



o6 


INDEX AND DIRECTORY 


(i) Efi^luh, («) R,C ; I 
Lebo^ig Cantonment ; Eng- 
lish Chapels at Si Pauls. 
Diocesan, and St Joseph's 
Schools. 

BATIA, 144, X47. 
DAULATABAD (E.) D.B., 

lOI, 102 , HO. 

Station for Ellora ; see 
EJIora in Index. 


DAY, FRANCIS, 550. 574. 

DE BOIGNE, 354, 404. 

r>EDUR, :549. 

DEESA, D.B., 181. 

DHHEA D 01 f, D.B., 372, 381, 
382. 

Hotels : Alexandra H. 
and Northern H, 

Club : Dehra Dun C. 

Bank : Alliance Bank 
0/ Simla. 

DEHRI, 52. 

DELHI (B.), cii-, cx., 249, 354. 

Hotels : Maidens H., 
in the Civil Linev (electric 
light and fans) ; Cecil H. 
(Mrs Hotz), in the Civil 
Lines, near Ludlow Castle, 
good, from 8 rs, up- 
wards I If' oodlattds N. , by 
St James’s Church. Civil 
and ^Military H. 

Railways : From Bom- 
bay, Routes 10, ti(a), and 
r2(c); to Lahore, Route 
; to Agra, Cawnpore, and 
Allahabad, Route 22 ; to 
Lucknow, Routes I5C<^1 
and 20, 


Club : Delhi C. , in Lud- 
low Castle ; Imperial Gym- 
khana, Kingsway. 

Ba^s ; Bank 0/ Bengal, 
Delhi Sank, Bank of 
Upper Ind>a, A Uiance 
Batik oy Simla, Pattjah 
Bank, and others. 

Motor-cara on hire at 
Maidens H . ; Piari Lai 
^ Co, ; Delhi Motor Co. ; 
Pratt Co. ; the three 
being inside the , 
Kashmir Gate. 


Hackney Carnages : 

^ ^ Class I. IL 

^ ts. 

• I r 12 as. 
Subs hr.i . 8 as. 6 as. 
lo the kutb 8rs. 6rs. 

. Newspaper : The Morn. 
f*tg Post. 


to R? rates apply to trips 
s Tomb, Nizam- 
'id-djti, and Safdar Jang 


Ohurclies: St James's; 
Si Stephens, of Cambridge 
Mission R.C. Church. 

Missions : S.P.G. and 
Cambridge Mission ; 
Baptist Mission ; Baptist 
Zenana Mission. 

Pkotographer ; Sultan 
Ahmad Khan, inside Delhi 
Gate. 

Merebants : Many well- 
known shops in the Chandni 
Chauk of jewellers and 
sellers of embroideries and 
ail kinds of ornamented 
ware. 

DEOGARH FORT, ii8. 
DEOGIRI, loi, 102. 
DEOLALI, 32. 

DEOLI, 134. 

DEORIA, 44. 

DERA GHAZI KHAN, D.B., 
3 - 5 ’ 

DERA ISMAIL KHAN, D.B. , 

325- 

DEVIKUND, 188. 

DEWAL, D.B. good, 342. 
DHAN 0 SKODI, Indian 
terminus of direct rly. 
route to Ceylon and Col- 
ombo, S94, 685 , 

DHAR, 124. 

D.B., Tonga from Mhow 

(33 iH')} rs- 12-15. 

Tonga on to Mandu 
(22 m ), rs. IO-J2. 
DHARMAVARAM, 522. 
DHARMKOT, 305. 

DH ARM PUR, 28S. 

D.B. good. 

DHABMSALA, D.B., Swit- 
zer's H., 304. 

DHARUR, 505. 

DHARWAR (R.), D.B. m. 

from station, 504. 

DHAULI, 445, 450. 

DHOLA (B.), 202. 
DHOLPUR (R,), D.B., 156 
DHOND (R.), D.B., 472. 
DHONE(R.), D.B., 520. 

Starting-point for Kur- 
33 m, distant. 
DHORAJI, 215. 

DHUBRI, D.B,, 441. 

DHULIA, D.B., 35. 
DIAMOND HARBOUR, 100. 
DIBRUGABH, D.B., 439, 440, 

Club l Dibrugarh Dis- 
trict C. 

DIG or DEEG, D.B,, 226, 227. 
DIGHA GHAT, 421. 


DIKOYA 663. 

DIKSAL, 473. 

DIKWELLA, 666, 574- 

DELWARRA TEMPLES, 

Mount Abu, iSa. 

DIMBULA, 663. 

DINAPOBE, D.B., 47, 48. 
Kellner’s Rofresbinent 
and Retiring Booms, 
DINDIGAL (R.), 589. 

DI17, 162, 208. 
DIYATALAWA, 666. 
DODBELLAPUR, 522* 
DOHAD, 169. 

DOMEL, D.B. good, 343. 
350- 

DONDRA, 674. 
DONGARGABH (R.), hS. 
DORNAKAL, 515- 
DRAS, 347. 

DUDH SAGAR, 487. 

DUFF, DR A., 81, 92. 
DUFFERIN, LADY AND LORD, 

81 ,289, 309. 

DULAI, D.B. good, 343. 
DtTM BUM, 95. 

Hotel : The Clive H. at 
Clive House. 

DUNCAN, JON., 5, 9. 

DUPLEIX, 97, 576. 

DURAND, SIR H., 8l, 127, 325. 

DUTCH, The, 170, 689. 
DWARKA, 2x6. 

£ 

EDEN, SIR A., 79, 89, go, 428. 
EDINBURGH, DUKE OF, 42. 
H.M. EDWARD VII., King- 
Emperor, n, 12, 36, 43, 44, 
71, 81, 87, 92, 126, 137, 188, 
262, 263, 285, 288, 319, 
323> 324, 395> 407» 484^ 

549> 553, 654. 

EDWARDES, COL. SIR H , 338, 
355, 357- 
EGYPT, xlvl. 
EISHMAKAM, 347. 
EKIRIYANKUMBARA, 

667. 

EKLINGI LAKE, 134. 
EKNELIGODA, 669. 
ELEPHANT PASS, R.H. 

an old Dutch Fort, 685. 
ELEPHANTA CAVES, 685. 

ELGIN, LORD, 86, 305. 

ELLA, R.H. , 666. 



INDEX AND DIRECTORY 


707 


ellenborough, earl of, Si, 

88, 353 - 

ELLICHPUK, 114. 

ELLORA CAVES, 104. 

The caves are now most 
easily reached from Daula- 
tabad station. Write before- 
hand to Nusserwanji, Aur- 
angabad, asking him to 
send a tonga (10 rs. -f 2 rs. 
per diem for detention) to 
meet train. 

Daulatabad station is 
10 m. from Edora. D.B-. 
small, at Rauza, and State 
B.Hs. at Ellora, but per- 
mission to occupy them 
must be obtained from the 
P. Sec. to H.E the 
Minister, Hyderabad. 
ELLORE (R.), 458.^ 

KLPHINSTONE, HON. M., 3, 5 , 
10, 13, 18, ig, 329, 465, 470 

ELPHINSTONE, lord, 5, lO, 
18, 549. 

ENGLISH BAZAR, Malda 
Dt. starting-place for Gaur, 
4 >f 5 - 

Acconunodation, : There 
is a well - equipped D.B. 
at English Bazat. A 
servant who can cook should 
be taken to Gaur and 
Pandua, A carriage can be 
obtained only by the kind 
services of the Alagistrate. 

ENNUR, 460, 

ERINPURA Rd., 183. ■ 

ERNAKULAM, 566. 

ERODE Junction (for Tri- 
chinopoly) (R. and D.B.), 

Excellent sleeping accom- 
modation at the rly. sta, 

ETAMPITIYA, 665. 

ETAWAH (R.), 405. 

D.B. ^ m. from rly. sta. 

EVEREST, MOUNT, 427. 

EVRE, MAJOR VINCENT, 47. 

F 

FAGU, D.B. (grand view), 

291. 

KA-HIAN, Ixxxvi, 61, 71, lOO. 
220 , 

faiyaz ali khan, nawab 
SIR, 195. 

FALTA, 100. , 
FARDAPUR, D.B., 56- 

Permission to occupy the 
D.B. is no longer required; 
but It is desirable to send 
notice (in the vernacular) of 
the proposed visit to the 
Fahsildar, Aj an ta. H . H . 
the Nizam’s dominions. 


FARIDKOT, 352. 

FARRUiCHABAD, 219. 

F.A.RRUKHSiyAR, EMPEROR, QO. 

FATEHABAD (R.), 128. 

FATEHPUR (D.B. and In- 
spection Bungalow), 410, 
4 i 3 ‘ 

FATEHPtJR-SrKRI, 1S9, 2iS> 
229, 234, 243, 244, 2485 

264. 

New D.B. 

FAZILKA, 352. 

FENCHUGANJ, 438. 

FERGUSSON, JAS., Indian 
Architecture, and Caue 
Temples of India^ passim. 

FEROZEPORE (R.), 352- 
D.B, 100 j’ds. E. of N. 
end of Mall (good). 

A merican Presbyterian 
Mission, R.C, Church. 

FEROZESHAH, 298, 333. 

FIROZABAD, 271. 

riROZ SHAH, EMPEROR, Ixv, 

251. 264, 266, 269, 271, 

275 j 279, 282, 351, 353, 377 i 
475 

FITZGERALD, SIR S. , 7. 

FOKDE, CC^., 98, 457, 459. 

FORT DUFFERIN, 626. 

FORT ST DAVID, 578. 

FORT WILLIAM, 76, 88. 

FRANCIS, SIR P., 87. 

FREDERICR.SNAGORE, 

french in INDIA, clv-clix, 
97 > 293. 400, 404, 457, 459 > 
5 ^ 0 , 532, 538. 540 > 550, 5 ^ 9 - 
573> 576-578, 582, 585-586, 
6 og. 

FRENCH POSSESSIONS, 

576-577- 

FRENCH ROCKS, 532, 533- 

FRERE, SIR BARTLE, 5, 7, lO, 
r8, 363, 46S, 481. 

FYZABAD (R.), 375 - 
D.B, close to rly. sta 
Ajodhya., an ancient 
centre of Hinduism, is 4 m. 
distant. 

G 

6ADAG (R,), 474. 503 > 5i6. 

D B. m. from rly. sta. 

GADARWARA, 39. 

GAEKWARS O?" BARODA, 

xci, 9, II, 32, i67> 16S, 
180, 284, 468. 

GAGANGAIR, 347- 

GALIES, the, hill stations 
near Murree, 330. 

GALLB, 673. 


(R.) Hotel: Oriental H,, 
fairly comfortable. 

Steamship Agencies : 
Clan Line., Clark, Spence 
& Co. ; British India S.N, 
Co., E. Coates & Co. ; and 
Asiatic Steamship CTti., 
] ob n Black & Co. 

Banks : Mercantile Bank 
0/ India. Ltd ; National 
Bank 0/ India, Ltd. ' 
Clark, Spence & Co., 
Agents. 

Store: A. R. Ephraim 
Co. 

GAMA. VASCO DA. 567, 568. 

GAMPOLA, 663. 
GANDARBAL. 347. 
GANpHARA,.Ixxxm, xK.^i, 
xcvii, 74, 83, 310, 337. 

GANE 3 H KHIND, 467. 
GANGADWARA, 380 
GANGTOK, 431-432. 

GAN JAM, 456. 

GARHI, D.B. good, 343. 

GA^HI HABIBULLA, 
D.B., 350. 

GARPOS, 120. 

GAUHATI, D.B., 438, 44 r. 
Daily Motor Service to 
Shillong. Sec under latter. 
GAUR, 416. 

(See English Bazar.) 

GAWILGARH, 114. 

GAYA, D.B.. 50. 

H M GEORGE V., KING- 
EMPEKOR, II, 64, 79, 87, 

126, 151, 188, 240, 250, 302, 
324 » 363, 4 oi> 405 j 469, 529, 
535 j 552. 

GERSOPPA FALLS, D.B., 

323. 

GHARAUNDA, 287. 
OHATAL, 442. 
GHA 2 IABAD, 293, 403. 
Waiting and Refresh- 
ment Rooms at rly. sta. 
wirh sleeping accommoda- 
tion (poor). 

GHAZIPUR, 420. 

GHAZNI, 239. 
GHORBAND.AR, 28. 

GHULAM KADIR, 262, 2S1, 404. 
GHULAM MUHAM.MAD, PRINCE, 

S2, gS. 

GHUMLL 216. 
GIBRALTAR, xL 
GIDDALORE, 521. 

GILBERT, GENL., 325- 

G INGEE FORT, 538, 572. 



INDEX AND DIRECTORY 


708 


GIR FOREST, 206, 212. 

GIRIDIH, so, 55. 

GIRNAR MOUNTAIN. -09. 

GITALDAHA, 441. 

GOA, 2, 487. 

Hotels : Grande H. J'or~ , 
ttigue:^; H. Crescente H. \ 
Central, and H. Republica. \ 
Carriages available for drive 
to Old Goa. 

In the cold season > 
steamers leave Bombay ' 
daily at noon, arriving at 
Goa the following after- 
noon, and proceeding twice 
a week to Mangalore. 

SteAznsMp Agents : 
B./.S.2V'. Co., A Ik If 
Souza (Mormugao) ; Bom- 
bay S.N. C<2., J, Trassee 
( Mormugao), and V. Alvares 
(Nova Goa); Goa Trad- 
ing Co, J, Almeida (Nova 
(xoa). 

GO ALP AR A, D.B,, 442- 

GOALUNDO GHAT, 435. 

Steamers (comfortable), 
daily mail service to Narain- 
ganj. 

GOBARJ)HAN, 225. 

GODAVARI, 458. 

GODHRA, 170. 

GOHAD, RAlVAO^, 148. 

GOKAK ROAD (R.), 485- 

GOKTEIK, 631. 

GOKUL, 224, 227. 

GOLAKGANJ, 441 

GOLCONDA, 51 1, 514. 

GOLRA, 331. 

GONDA, 375, 421. 

GONDAL, 216. 

There are a good Guest 
House and D.B. 

GONDIA, 117. 

GOOTY (R.), 477, 520. 

GOPALPITR. 436. 

GORAKHPUR, 374, 4:^1- 

GOUGH, LORD, 8l, 326, 353. 

(iOVlNDGARH, 302, 320. 

GOVIND SINGH, GURU, 
lx.\xvjii, 49, 297, 301, 3T0. 

(iOZO, xliii, 

GH.AN'T, CHARLES, gi. 

GKANT*DUKF, Si{< m. jv ^ 

550* 

GREGORY, SIR \V., sSo. 

GUDUR, 4«?o. 

GUJARAT, D.B., 324, 342, 
347, 348. 

GUJRANWALA (R.), D.B 
323. * ■’ 

D.B. close to sta. (poor). 


GULBARGA, D.B., 474. 

GULISTAN, 370. 

GULMARG, 347. 

Hotel : Nedou s is the 
only H. (good). Visitors, 
as a rule, take up their 
quarters in wooden huts 
procurable at a small rent 
from the State, and gener- 
ally engagetl in advance, or 
in tents. 

GUND, 347. 

GUNTAKAL (R.), 477, 520- 
523 

June, of Madras and S 
Mahratta RIys. 

GUNTUR, 521. 

GUPTA DYNASJ'V, the, 
l.xxxvi, xcvii, 45, 72, 73, 
74, 207, 222-223, 278. 

GUPTESWAR CAVEh, 
53 

GURDASPUR, D.B., 303. 

GURGAON, 354. 

GURKHAS, the, 382, 385. 

GWAUOR (R.), cliv, 147- 
156. 

Hotels : Gwalior H. (Old 
Musafir Kbana); L-ashkar 
H.; Grand H . , a*very hand- 
some structure undej 
j European management, ex- 
tremely well- furnished and 
thoroughly' well -equipped, 
fitted with electiic light and 
fans. 

Bank ' A lliance Batik 0/ 
Simla. 

Missions : Methodist 

Episcopal ; Do. Zenana 
Mission: B.C. Church. 

Hackney Carriages, 
poor. Fares to Gwalior, 
12 as. and 8 as. ; to Morar, 
I r. and 12 as. ; per hour, of 
detention, 4 as. ; double fare 
for return journey. 

Gaol Carpets, etc., made 
to order, reasonable price, 
good work. 


H 

HABARANE, R.H., 686. 
HAKGALA, 66:;. 
HALDUMMULLA, R.H , 
671. 

HALLABID,S25, 

HALLIDAY, SIR F, J., 79 

HAMBANTOTA, R.H., 
675, 602. 

HAMPI (Vijayanagar), 516- 
519. 

(The rly. sta. for Hampi 
is Hospet.) 


D.B. at Kamalapur (7 rn 
from Hospet, and within 
i m. of Ruins), poor. The 
fee for its use is i r. per 
diem (i r. S as. for a married 
couple), and the visitor must 
make his own arrangements 
about food, procurable at 
Hospet sta. Mosquito cur- 
tains should be brought. 
There is a Peon in charge 
of the rooms, who will act 
as guide for a small fee. 
The rates entered here are 
tor Government officials on 
duty. The rates for 
private persons are t r. 
8 as. per diem for each 
adult, and 2 rs. 4 as foi 
a married couple. Private 
persons must obtain the 
permission of the Collector 
to occupy the bungalow 

HANAMCONDA, 515. 

HANSI, D.B., 351. 

HAN WELL A, R.H., 669. 
HAPUTALE, R.H.. 666, 

671. 

HARAPPA, 355. 

HARDA, 37. 

D.B. 3 minutes' walk from 
rly. sta (good). 

hardinge, lord, 81, 353. 

HARDOr, 374. 

HARDWAR, D.B, good, 371, 

3S0, 381. 

Rly. to Dehra Dun. 

HARXHAR (R.), 504, 523 

HARI PAR RAT, 344. 

HARIPUR, D.B., ”iS8, 334, 
350* 

HARNAI, D.B., 371. 

Bubock dhumni or tonga 
available. 

HARPALPUR, 159 
HARPANAHALLl, 519- 

HAKRIS, LORD, 5, 14. 

HARSHA, Ixxxvi 

Hasan shah, 102. 

HASSAN ABDAL, D.B., 334, 
342. 349- 

HASTINCLs, MAK<^>, OF, 8y, 94- 

HASTINGS, WARREN, clvill, 
clix, 46, 60, 62, 64, 65, 76, 
81, 85, 87, 373, 375, 4-3. 

HATHRAS j[R.), 0.B., 228, 
405- 

HATTIAN, 34^. 

HATTON (R.)’663. 

Hotel : Adam S Peak 
H.. for Adam’s Peak (pp. 
663. 670}. 

Physician: Dr Thomas 
at Norwood (4^ m.). 



INDEX AND DIRECTORY 


709 


Store and Cbemist : 

Brown dr’ Co . , L td. 

Bank : Hatton Bank. 
Livery StalDles : Pate 
Co. Carriage to Tala- 
wakelle, 12 rs. ; to Laxapana, 
for Adam’s Peak, r8 rs. 
HAUZ KHAS, 275. 

HAVELOCK, general SIR H., 
cl-cliii, 42, 89, 387, 392, 
394> 395. 396, 3985 399. 40o, 
410, 41 1, 413. 
HA2ARIBAGH, 54, 

District Board D.B. 

HAZRAT BURHAN - Ul) - DIN 
SAIYAO, 103. 

HSBER, BISHOP REGINALD, 

31, 77, 86, 94, 164, 167, 
168, 171, 265, 556, 585. 
HENARATGODA, R.H., 
658. 

HEN2ADA, 645- 
HERAMITIPANA, 670. 
Lodgings to be had at 
large Pilgrim Bungalow. 
HEWETT, SIR J. P., 42. 

HIKKADUWA, R.H., 673. 
HIMALAYAS, the, 66, 124, 
330, 427-42S. 
HIMMATGARH, 148. 
HINDAUN, 170. 
HINDUPUR, 522. 
HINGANGHAT, D.B., 114. 
HINGOLI, ri3. 

HIRPUR, R.H., 348. 
HISSAR (R.), D.B., 351- 

HIUEN ISANG, 41, 43, 51, 5 ^, 
56, 61, 71, 75, 100, 161, 220, 
299, 329, 355, 376, 377, 380. 
HODSON, MAJOR, 255, 258, 27O, 

273’ 395. 400 

HOBART, LORD, 549, S51. 

HOLALKERE, 523. 

HOLKAR, MAHARAJAS OF 
INDORE, Xci, 33, 124, 126, 
127, i6g, 327, 252, 268, 284, 
467, 470, 471. 

HOLWELL, MR J. Z., 90. 

HONAVAR, 524- 
HOOCrHLY, 56, 76, 77, 97. 
HORANA, R.H., 671. 
HOROWAPOTANK, 677. 
HORTON PLAINS, R. H. 
excellent, write beforehand, 
664, 665, 691. 

HOSHANGABAD, D.B., 
127, 135- 

HOSPET (R.), D.B., 516. 

Rly. sta. for Hampi. 
Station Master will order 
conveyance. ! 

HOTGI (R.)> 474> 490- j 

HOTI M ARB AN, 336, I 


HOWRAH (see also Cal- 
cutta). 56, 77, 95, 12 1, 414, 
442. 

HOYSALA BALLALA DYNASTY, 

516. 525. 53J. 532- 
HUBLI (R.), 504, 523- 
humavun, emperor, Ixv, 
28. 46, 74, 148, 157, 167, 
190, 248. 250, 251, 259, 270, 
271, 274, 2S3, 284, 312, 405. 

HYDERABAD (Deccan) (R.), 

506. 

Hotels : Montgomery //.; 
Grand H, 

Bank : Bank 0/ Bengal. 
Chemists : Leister 
Co . ; -iV, Cursetjir Lf Co. 

Dentist to H.H. the 
Nizam : J. Morris. 
Hackney Carnages : 

By time — 

Class I. II. 

Per day 9 rs. 4J rs. 
Per hour i r. 12 as. 
Distances more than 5 m. 
from the Residency by 
agreement. 

HYDERABAD (Kashmir), 
D.B., 349. 

HYDERABAD (Sind), 359- 
D.B. good in Canton- 
ment. 

Missions; C.M.S. 
and Church Schools. 

HYDER ALI, 478, 504, 519, 

520, 527, 528, 530, 534, 

535. 536, 340- 540. 551. 565’ 
567. 569- 570. 571, 579* 


I 

ICHAPUR, 95* 

IDAR, 180. 
lOATPURI (R.), 32. 

D B i m. from sta. 

ChTircli ; (Anglican). 

Railway Institute. 
IMPER [AL GAZE T- 
TEER^ the, Nxix 
IMPEY, SIR ELIJAH. 80. 

IMPHAL, 440. 

INDORE (R-). D.B.. 126. 

Ciinrclies : English 
Church and R.C. Churchy 
both in the Residency. 

Medical Man : The 
Residency Surgeon, Major 
Smith: has a Nursing 
Home under his direction. 

Reading Boom and 
En^lisii Club. 
INDRABETTA HILL, 527. 
IRAMPAIKKULAM, 685. 


IRANAMADU, 685. 

IRRAKAMAM, 691. 

ISHURDI, 425. 

ISLAMABAD, D.B., 346. 

IS-MAILIA, xlviii. 

{TARSI, 38, 135. 

D.B. (R.) and waiting 
room at rly. sta. ' 

J 

JACOBABAD, 368. 

D.B. at Wan Radharam, 
i m. from rly. sta. 

JAELA, R.H., 676. 

JAFFNA (J affnapatam), 

R.H., 658, 679, 686 

JAGANATHGANJ, 437. 

JAGANATH TEMPLE, 
124, 452. 

JAGAT SINGH, 72 . 

JAHANGIR, EMPEROR, Ixiv, 
Ixv, 41, 43, 69, 125, 1331 
136, 144, 166, T84, 230, 237, 
239, 240, 245, 247, 248, 251, 
274 > 3 I 2 » 3 I 5 > 32 t> 322, 345 * 
346} 436 

JAIN CAVES, log, 157, 445,447' 
448, 500, 502. 

JAINPUR, 53. 

JAINS, the, ciii, 54, 170, 172, 
183, 204. 

JAIN STATUES, I53,^I55» 527- 

JAIN TEMPLES, ciii, 54, lOI, 

123, 134, 147, 1545 165, 

177, 182-183, 203-204, 210- 
21 1, 265, 486, 527, 546. 

JAIN TOWERS, 130, 131. 

JAIPUR (B.), 67, 192. 

Hotels ; Jaipur H . , very 
good and well managed, 
formerly Rustom Family 
//., 7 rs per head per day 
for board and lodging ; The 
New H. (proprietor, Lala 
Ram Bagoji), very good, 
clean, and comfortable ; 
Kaisar-i-Hind H. The 
proprietors of these hotels 
have carriages for hire, and 
will, if necessary, make 
arrangements for vbitors 
for tongas, bullock -carts, or 
poniec, for the ascent right 
up to Amber by the new 
road. 

Hackney Carriages : 

By time — 

Class I. H. 

Per day . 4^ rs. 2 4 rs. 

Per i day . 24 rs. i r 6 as. 

Per hr. . . ij rs. 8 as. 

By distance — 

Class I. 11. 

ist mile . . 8 as. 3 as. ^ 
Subs, mile . 4 as. as. 



710 


INDEX AND directory 


Open carriages, 8 rs. per 
diem. 

Chlircli : near the hotels 
Dealers in Silks, Indian 
^OSlties, etc., Zvrcasier 

good showrooms. 
Enamel Work ; Sa/^/ia^ 
Chard irulab Chand. 

School Of Art has also 
good display, work to order. 

Scottish Mission. 
JAISALMER, i86. 
JAISAMAND LAKE, 134. 

JAI SINGH II. RAJA OF JAIPUR, 
07, 128, 193, 197 275. 

JAITPUR, 139. 

Dharmsala comfortable 
JAJPUR, 443. 

^ (Simla), 289- 

JALALPUR, 328. 

JALAMB, 1 13. 
JALAPAHAR, 428. 
J*^ARPAT Junction (for 
Bangalore) (R.X 536, 559. 
JALGAON, 36, 36, 16, 
JALNA, 112. 

JALPAIGURI (R.) b.D 

425. 

JAMALPUR, 49, 419. 

Refreshment 
and Retiring Rooms at sta 

'shoa? MARY-' 

orlGAL, the, 99. 

JAMGAL, 525. 

JAMMU, 324, 3^2, 350. 

State D.B. 

Traveller recommended 
the Resident may be 
^c^mmodated at the State 

JAMNAGAR, 217. 

jamrud, 339 . 

JANAM sthax, 376. 

JANG BAHADUR, SIR, 32, 48- 

49 » 394. 

JANGSHAHI(R),36,. 

Rooms at the rly. 

sta. Camels or car- 

Tatta should be 

ordered beforehand throu<^h 
the station-master. " 
JATS, 218. 

JAUNPUR(a )^ 377. 

to Police Lines 

Hackney Carriages • 

mbr. 

Subs.hr.' ■ 

<‘2 

«vil station .S as. 10 as. 


java, 94 . 

JEEJEEBHOY, sir JAMSETJEE, 
tO) 13, 14, 18, 20, 467, 470. 

JETALSAR (R.), 201, 205. 
JH^SI (R.), ^44.146^ 133 

Inspection House 
D.B. good. 

Club : Jhansi Chib. 
Indian Club; Silberrad 
L nion. 

JHANSI, RANI OF, Cxivii, cUv, 
I 45 > i 49 j 150. 
JHARSUGUDA, 120. 

J^RLTJM, D.B., 327, 349, 

J HERRIA COALFIELD 

55 - 

JIDDAH, lii. 

JODHBUR, D.B., 184-185, 

For permission to see the 
palace application must be 
made to the Resident or 
the senior member of the 
Mahkama Khas. 

JODHPUR, .MAHARAJAS 
128, 240. 

JOGESWAR CAVE, 26. 

JOHAR ("Immolation), 129, 154, 
457 ' 

JONES, SIR W., 84, 85. 

JOR BUNGALOW, 427. 
JUBBULPORE (R.), DB 
39 > 115 - 

Hotels t Jackson's H. 
and C<yivdeary’s H, (rhe 
former being much su- 
perior); Nerbudda Club 
This IS the station for the 
expedition to the Marble 
Rocks (p. 40). 

Missions; CMS.; Ch. 
of England Zenana ; E. C. 
Church , W tsleyan Mis- 
sion, and various 

Missions. 

Motors : Messrs Din- 

Ahbhoy: The Punjab 

House, Ltd.: M. S. Peniy • 
Messrs Marshall Co. ’ 
Pattulal. Motor-car hire 
IS 8 as. a mile ; detention, 

I r. an hour. These per- 
sons have one car each 

Victorias, Tongas, etc. 
may be obtained from Mrs 
Ford, Civil Lines, near 
Jackson s Hotel. 

Hackney Carriages • 

By tiTne— 

„ , Class I. II 

ror theisthouror 

portion ofhour 12 as. 8 as. 
tor each succeed, 
r- hour . . 6 as. 4 as. 


By distance — 

Class I. n. 

I St mile or fraction 
of a mile. . 8 as. 6 aus. 
r or each succeed- 
ing mile . 4 as. 3 as. 

JULLUNDUR, 298 
D.B. in Cantonments, about 
^ m. from Cantonment 
rly. .sta 

JUNAGADH, 205. 

Accommodation and 
conveyances on apphca- 
tion to the Administrator 
of the State. There is a fine 
Guest House for Indians 
and officials of rank. D.B. 
cIo.se to rly. sta. 

JUTOGH, 280. 


tor day of 9 hrs. 
tor Vday ofs hr^. 


4 rs. 3 rs 
rs. 2 rs. 


KABUL, clxi, clxiv, 337. 

KACH for Ziarat, D.B. open 
May to October (tonga 
fare 15 rs.), 370, 

KADALUNDI, 568. 
KADUGANNAWA, 658 

kaduwella, R.H. 6s7 
668 . 

KAHUTA, 349. 

H A I RA, 171, 

KAITHAL, 287. 
KALABAGH, 336 

(Sarai- 

kala), D.B,, 331^ 33^ 
KALANAUR, 303.^ 
kala OYA, R.H., 677. 
KALAW, 623. 

HALAWEWA, 680. 

Travellers will find ac- 
commodation at the Govt. 
Bungalow on the Bund by 
arrangement beforehand. 
kalinjar, ,59. .6,, 
KALKA, 288. 

Hotels : Lomrie’s H 
ne.xt door to P.O. and 
1. u. (open throughout 
the year). Railway to 
bimla. 

K^MUNAI, R.H. good, 
691. 

KALNA, 55. 

KALODAI^ 667. 

KALPI (Bengal), 100. 

KAL PI, D.B., 146-147. 

KALUNGA, 120. 

KALUTARA, R.H. new 
and excellent, 672. 



INDEX AND DIRECTORY 


/ 


II 


R AR YAN, 31, 460. 

R. and Waiting Rooms. 
Bullock - carts and pony - 
tongas for hire. 
KAMALAPUR, 516- 
D.B. See Hampi- 
kamandrug hills, 

28. 

KAMPTI, D.B., 116. 
kanakarayanku- 
LAM, 685. 

KANARAK., 453^ 454> 455 
KANAUJ, 376, 405. 

KANBAL, D.B., 346. 

KANDAHAR, clxiV, 370. 

KANDAPOLLA, 665. 

KANDY, xxii, 661. 

Hotels : Queens H . 
excellent; H. Suisse, 
facing the lake, excellent. 

Club: near Mercantile 
Bank. 

Hackney Carriages : 2^ 

rs, per ^ day ; ist hr , i r. 

20 c ; subsequent hrs., 30 c. 

Cbemists: Miller &r Co.; 
Cargills Ltd. 

Banks : Mercantile Bank 
of India, Ltd.; National 
Bank of India, Ltd. 

Shops : C argi Us, Ltd. ; 
Miller Co. : Pldte 

^ Co. (for photographs) ; 
iVhiiea'Way Laidlaiv^ 

Co. ; Col. Apothecaries Co. 
Doctor : G. Powell H ay. 
Missions : C.M.S. «ta , 
Trincomalee St. ; Christ 
Church ; Trinity Church. 
College, and Schools. 
KANGAN, 347 - 
K ANGRA VALLEY, 305- 
ELANHERI caves, 26, 27, 
56. 

KANKARIYA LAKE, 178- 
KANKESANTURAI, R.H. 

excellent, 658, 67q, 686. 
KANKHAL, 380. 
KANI^ROLI lake, 134- 
KANTALAI, R.H., 688. 
KAPADVANJ, D.B. good, 
170. 

KAPURTHALA, RA[A OF, 33i 
299, 401. 

KARACHI (R.), D.B. clo^e 
to arsenal, 363. 

r 

. I 


184. 


Hotels ; The Dn*on Villa 
H. ; Killarmy H. ; Bris- 
tol H. ; Caidton H . ; 
North-Western H. 

Banks : National Bank 
of India ; Bank of Bombay ; 
Punjab Bank : Commercial 
Bank of India, Forbes, 
Forbes & Co. 

Agents: Co.r Co., 
Bandar Rd. 

Newspapers: Daily Gaz- 
ette; Sind Obserz'er; 
Phtcnix ; Sind Sudhar 
(vern.acular). 

Bazar : Sadr Bazar , 

good- 

Cafes : C. Grand; C. 
Majestic. 

Club : Sind Club, adjoin- 
ing the Frere Hall Com- 
pound. A handsonie build- 
ing containing considerable 
sleeping accommodation. 
Members can introduce 
friends as honorary mem- 
bers for three days. ^ 

Gymkhana and Ladies 
Club within five minutes 
walk from Sind Club. 

Golf C , Polo C., Boat 
C., Sailing C. 

Hackney Carriages ; 

Class I. IL 
Victoria. 

1 hour or less^ 12 as. 9 as. 
For every addi- 
tional hour or 
portion of hr. 6 as. 45 as. 
Missions : C.M.S. ; 

yiethodist Episcopal 
Motor-cars are available 
on hire. 

Churches: Scotch. 

Steamship Agencies : 

P. Sf 0 . British India 

S.N. Co., Mackinnon, Mac- 
kenzie Co Direct weekly 

S S meet in-commg and out 

going P. & O. steamers to 
and from Europe at Bombay. 
Weekly steamer to Persian 
Gulf ; coast steamer bi- 
weekly to Bombay - 

Clan Line, James Finlay 
6 f Co. 

Ellerman s H all and 
City Lines, Forbes, Forbes 
Campbell^ Co., Ltd. 

Wilson Line, Finlay 
Muir Co. To Bombay. 
Middlesboro’, or Hull every 
fortnight. 

Anchor Line, tlson 
(Hull) Line, D. Graham 
*5?^ CO,r 


Forwarding Agents : 

Cox Co. ; The Eastern 
E.x ports Co. Ltd. 

Consuls (constantly 
changing) : France, Mr E. 

L. Price. 

U.S.A., Mr E. L. 
Rogers 

Italy, Signor Aldo Viola. 
Belgium, Mr J. R- 
Baxter. 

Netherlands, Mr D. Van 
Wijngarden 

Norway, Mr O. Turton. 
Portugal, Dr L. Castcl- 
hno. ^ ^ 

Persia, Mir Ayub Khan. 
Denmark, vacant. 
KAKAMAT ’aLI, 98 

KARHARBARI. 55- 
KARIKAL, 577. 578. 
KARJAT, 461- 
KARLI, 30, 462-4. 

The best way to visit the 
Caves is to alight at Lan- 
auli(G.l.P. Rly.), and drive 
to and from Karli. 
KARNAL, D.B., 253, 254, 
285. 

KARUR, 560. 

KARWI TARAHWAN, 161. 

K. A SARA (R-), 3^ 

KASAULI, 288. 

Hotel : The Grand. 
(^Pasteur Instituted) 
kashmir, 34°- See5rf«a- 
gar. 

KASIM BAZAR, 423- 
KATARAGAMA, 690. 
KATAS, 328. 

KATHA, 631. 632- 
KATHGODAM (R ), 373. 

Hotel: Railway H. 
Tongas, ponies, dandies, 
bearers, and porters await 
the trains. Tongas tc 
Naini Tal Brewery should 
be secured beforehand by 


e7ite'rate arc available for 
Indian servants 

KATHIAWAR PROVINCE, 

200. 

KATIHAR, 419. 4’5- 
KATMANDU, 420. 

KATNI, 40, 119. 120. 
KATPADI (R.), 5:6 June. 

for Vellore. 

KATWA. 56. 

KAUKHALI, 443- 
KAUNIA, D.B., 441. 



712 


INDEX AND DIRECTORY 


KAURAVAS. Ixxi, Ixxii, 2S6. 
K.AVANAGH, J.j 393. 

KAZIPET, 202. ~ 
REDGEREE, loo. 
KEGALLA,- R.H. good, 658, 
669. 

KEKERAWA, R.H , small 
but good, 680, 

KELANI, 657. 

KESHAB CHANPRA SEN, 8l. 

KHAIRABAD (R.), 336. 
KHAIRNA, 384 
KHAIRPUR, 359. 
KHAJRAHO, 160. 

Country cart from 
Mahoba, 3-4 rs 
RHAMGAON, 113. 
RHAXA, 49, 55, 414. 
KHANDAGIRI CAVES, 445, 
447 - 

KHANDALA. 462. 

Hotel : K hand ala H. 
RHANDWA, 37, 122. 

R. and Waiting Rooms. 
Conveyances procurable. 
D.B. 

RHARAGHODA, 201. 
RHARAKPUR, 121, 442. 
KHARIAN, 326. 
RHERALU, rSo. 

KHIRKI (Delhi), 281. 
RHOJ.AK PASS, 370. 
KHURDA ROAD, 450. 
RHUSHALGARH, 336. 

KHUSRO, PRINCE, 41, 42. 

khwajah khizr 

ISLAND, 363. 

KHYBER PASS, 338, 339. 
KIAMARI, 364. 

KILA ABDULLAH (R), 
370* 


KINCHINJANG 
mountain, 427. 

KIN DAT, 646-9. 

RIRINDE (R.H.), 675-6, 

KIRHEE, 465, 471. 

ROpAIKANAL (Pal 
Hills). See Ammayan 
yakkanur^ 5 So. 

In the sea.son a niotor-b 
service (3 days’ notice 
intendedjourney desirabl 
25 seers of luggage aliowe 
runs in 3 hrs. to (33 n 

Rrisbnamanaikan — char 
per seat 6 rs. Pony a 
chair on to Kodaikan; 
rs. and 6^-8^ rs. 

RODKANL Two DB 
524- 


ROHALA, D.B. good, 342. 
KOH.\T, D.B.,331, 340- 
KOHIMA, 440. 

KOHINUR, the, 148, 243, 

252, 451- 

ROIL (ALIGARH), 405. 
KOILPATTI, 396. 

KOLA GHA r, 442 
KOLAK GOLDFIELDS, 
536. 

A short branch railway 
runs from Bownngpet to 
the Goldfields, where there 
IS a good D.B. in the Mysore 
Company’s Camp. 
KOLHAPUR, 484- 
ROND.VPALLI, 516 
KONK.AN, the, 31, 460, 

462, 480, 481. 

KORA, 414. 

KORBA, 120. 

KOSI, 228. 

KOSLANDE, R.H., 671- 
KOTAGIRI, 562. 

Hotel ; Blue Moiaitain 
Z/., good. 

KOTAH, 134, 143, 169. 
KOTAWARA, 372. 
KOTGARH, D.B., 290, 291. 
KOTRAPURA (R.), 352, 
KOTLI, 349. 

KOTRI (R.), 361, 367. 

D B. (provisions must be 
taken), not far from Bandar 
rly. sta. 

KOTTA, 657. 

KRISHNA, 476- 

KRISHNA, Ixix, 214, 221-227, 
406, 501, 504, 602. 
KRISHNAGAR, 422. 

KRISHNA MURTI, SIR, 528. 

RUCHAMAN ROAD, i88. 
KUCHI BANDAR, 566. 
KUDRA, 53. 

KULANGAM, 344. 
KULAURA, 438. 

KULU VALLEY, 292, 304. 
RUMARHATTI, 288. 
KUMBAKONAM (R.), D.B., 
581- 

KUi\rBHA RANA, 131 , 184. 

RUMBH MELA, 44, 380. 
KUMUNA, 6gi. 

KURJI, 49- 
KURD A, 9, 30. 

KURNOOL (Madras), 520. 
D.B. 

RURSL 0 NG(R.),D.B., 426, 


Hotel : Grand H. (Mrs 
Monk’s), late Clarendon 
//., good, pleasant place for 
breaking journey. Some 
people prefer this place to 
Darjeeling. 

KURUKSHETRA June., 
286. 

RURUNEGALA, R H, 658, 
662, 678. 

KUSHANA DYNASTY, 
the. 45, 46. 

KUTB (Delhi), 233, 250, 252, 
259 t 27s, 276, 277 - 8 , 455 - - 
Small D.B. close to the 
great mosque 
Police Rest House in 
the tomb of Adham Khan. 
Comfortable quarters. Ap- 
plication must be made 
beforehand to the Deputy- 
Commissioner, Delhi, for 
permission to stop there. 

KUTB - UD - DIN, KING OF 
DELHI, Ixiv, Ixv, 61, 72, 

190, 276, 278, 294, 403, 405. 

KUTTALAM, 595, 

KYAUKPYU, 644. 

KYAUKSE, D.B., 623. 


L 

LAHERIA SARAI, 420, 
LAHORE (R.), 307, 354. 

Railway: From Bombay, 
Routes 10, 12(e), 15(1?'); 

Delhi, Route 15(^5) ; 
Calcutta to Peshawar, 
Route 16; to Karachi and 
Quetta, Routes 1 8(,^) and 19. 

Hotels : Nedou's H.^ S 
rs. ; Faleiti’ s //. , Cecil; 
and several others. 

Club : Panjab Club, 
Lahore and Meean Meer In- 
stitute. 

Missions : C.M.S., St 
John’s Divinity School, 
Zenana Mission, and 
Trinity Church ; American 
Presbyterian ; Forman 
College and (jhurcb ; R.C. 
Cathedral; Scotch Church, 
Banks : Bank 0/ Bengal ; 
P anjab Banking Co.; A lla~ 
kabad Bank ; A lliance 
Bank oy Simla ; Commer- 
cial Bank of India. 

Photograpliers : Crad- 
dock; Jadukishan; Brem- 
ner. 

Chemists : Plomer; 

S?Hith ^ Campbell ; 
Frank Bliss. 

TaUots: P helps; Ranken; 
Ball Moody ; I illingham. 



INDEX AND DIRECTORY 


713 


Bootmaker: li'atis. 
Drapers': Whiteaway 

' JLaidlaw ; Ball Moody. 
Hackney Carriages : 

Class I. 11. 

Per day . . 4 rs. 3 rs. 

ist br. . , I r. 4 as. 6 as. 

subs, hr. , . 10 as. 4 as. 

To Meean Meer, 

Shalimar or Shahdara 
and back . . 2 rs. i r. 

For each hr. of 
detention . . 8 as. 4 as. 

Newspapers : Chnl and 
Military Gazette; Tribune 
runyabi. 

Clmrclies : Cathedral ; 
Rail'wav Church; R.C. 
Cathedral : Presbyterian. 
Railixtay ChiaTh^ Chui'ch 
0/ England. 

LAHORE CANTONMENT, 
D.B., 307, 320. 
LAHUGALAWEWA, 6gi. 

LAKE, LORD, Ixiv, 8j, 200, 21 8, 
227, 230, 240, 252, 262, 285, 

293, 354. 404- 

LAKE MANZALA, xlviii. 
LAKES, BITTER, xlix. 
LAKE TIMSA, xlviii, xHx. 
LAKHISARAI, 49, 419. 
LAKI (R.), 367. 

No D.B., but good rooms 
at the riy. sta, 
LAKKANDI, 503. 
LAKSAM, 438. 

LALABEO, 339. 

LALA MUSA (R.), 325- 
LALGOLA GHAT, 425. 
LALITPUR, D.B., 144, 158. 

LALLY, COUNT, 550, 574, 576, 
582. 

LANOI KOTAL, 339. 
LANDOUR, 382. 

Hotel: WoodvilleH. 
LANSDOWNE, 372. 

LANSDOWNE, LORD, 2Q, 85. 

LARK ANA, D.B., 366. 
LASALGAON, 35. 
LASHKAR (Gwalior), 147, 
150, 151, 152, 155, 156. 
LxVSSUNDRA, 170. 
LASWARI, 200. 
lats of stone, 64, 270-1, 
421. 

LAURIVA, 420. 
LAWRENCE ASYLUMS: 
Abuy 182. 

Murree, 330. 
Ootacamund, 563. 
Sanazuar, 288, 


LAWRENCE, COL. STRINGER, 

549. 55<^. 585- 

LAWRENCE, SIR HENRY, cxlvi. 
cxlix, 86, 95, 288, 309, 353, 
387-389» 395-396^ 399. 40i. 
407- 674. 

LAWRENCE (sir JOHn), 1 ORD, 
cl, cli, 8i, 254, 290, 307-300, 
320, 33S, 396. 

r.AXAPANA, 663. 

Hotel good* 

LERONG, 429 . 

LEH, 347. 

LETPADAN, 643-644. 
LHAKSAR, 372 , 380. 
LIDDAR VALLEY. 346. 
LIMBDI, 2C2. 
LINGAMPALLI, 506. 
LODHRAN, 354. 357- 
LODL— BAHLOL, IBRA- 
HIM, AND SIKANDAR, 
Ixv, 148, 220, 230 , 240 , 

242, 252, 274, 279, 281, 284, 

298, 378, 483- 
LOLAB VALLEY, 344- 
LONAR, 113. 

LONAULI (R.), 462. 

Conanli H-; Woodland s 
U and Hamilton //, , \ ni. 
and i in. respectively from 
the rly. sta. 

Best starting-place for 
drive to the Karli Cave- 
LONDA (R.), 486, 505 - 
LORALAI, 371- 
LUCKNOW (R.), cli-cliii, 
374. 375- 385- 

Raziway: From Saharan- 
pur and Benares, Route 
2o(«) ; from Cawnpore, 
Route 22 : from Allahabad, 
Route 2. 

Hotels : In the Abbott 
Road, The Royal M., good'. 
The Grand H. ; The Civil 
and Military H. In the 
Shah Najap and Clyde 
Roads, The Carlton H.. 
good. 

Clubs : United Service, 
in the Chatar Manzil 
Palace ; yio hammed Bagh 
C., Cantonments. 

Banks : Bengal; U-pj^er 
India ; Delhi ^ London ; 
A llahabad. 

Chemist : Peake A lien. 

General Merchants : 
Murray Co. 

Jewellers and Curio 
Dea-Iei^ : Bhola Nath Ka- 
poor., in the Cbowk. 

Photographer: Lawrie. 

Drapers : Whiteaway 

Laid law ; Trez>ellion. 


Hackney Carriages : 

By time. — 

isthr. Sub.hrs. 
or part, to g brs. 
Special i r. 8 as. 12 as. 
First (a) 12 as. 6 as. 

,, {b) 10 as. 5 as. 

.Second (a), 

(b), (c), 8 as. 4 as. 

Motors ; 50 rs. per diem. 
Missions : C.M.S. (at 
Zahur Bakhsh), Church 
of Epiphany and Schools; 
Methodist Episcopal oj 
U.S.A. ; R.C. Churches. 

The Museum (Ajaib 
Ghar) is closed at 3.30 and 
on Fridays. 

The Rinks and Picture 
Palace : Forsyth Road, 
LUDHIANA, 298. 

D.B, at sta. 

Missions : A merican 
Presbyterian ; Medical and 
Zenana, 

LUMDING, 438, 439, 441. 
LUNI, 184. 

LUNUGALA, R.H. good, 667. 
LVALLPUR, 324. 

M. 

i MACAULAY, LORD, 6o, 8$, 539. 
macdonnell, lord, 42, 234. 
MACKESON. COL., 338. 
macnaghten, sir w.. 80 , 

86 . 

MADAWACHCHI Y A, 
R.H. good, 679, 684 
MADDUR (R.), 530. 

For the Cauvery Falls. 
Tonga {24 hrs.’ notice 
needed), lors. ; jhatka, 5rs. 
MADHAVAPUR, 216. 
MADHUBAN, 53. 
MADHUPUR (R.), D.B. 

MADHU, RAO, PESHWA, 

40. 

MADRAS, 460. 479, 547^ 572- 
Railways : From Cal- 
cutta, Route 25 ; from 
Bombay, Route 26; from 
Bangalore, Route 32 ; from 
Ootacamund, Route 34 ; 
from Tuticorm and Ceylon, 
Route 35- 

Hotels : (under ^ one 

management) Spencers H. . 
B rind's H., Connemara //. 
(these three are the best), 
D'Angelis H. — all in 
good positions dose to 
Mount Road ; Elphinstone 
H., Balmoral H.., Victoria 
— all in central petition 



INDEX AND DIRECTORY 


yI4 


on or near Mount Road, not 
far from the Madras Club, 
and I m. from. rly. sta. ; 
Woodlands^ Wes toot t Rd. 
There are a few small 
hotels in George Town near 
the harbour. 

Agents: Binny Co., 
Armenian St. (Agents for 
Grindlay & Co., Parliament 
St.), undertake all business 
in connection with travel- 
ling, banking, and financial 
arrangements for travellers 
in India. 

Banks : Bank of MadrcLs; 

The Indian Bank, Beach ; 
Chartered Bank of India, 

A usiralia, and China, Es- 
planade ; Chartered Mer- 
cantile Bank of I ndia, Lon - 1 
don, and China ; National 
Bank of India, Ltd., 
First Line Beach. Madras 
Central Urban Bank Ltd,, 
Mylapore. 

Booksellers : Higgin- 

botham dr* Co., Barrand, 
Addison Co., Vest 
Co. — all in Mount Road ; 
Kalyanarum Iyer, G. A. 
Natesan, George Town. 

Ckemists : IV. E. Smith 
Co., Mount Road and 
Esplanade ; and Maclure 
Co., Mount Road. 

Clubs : The Madras C. 
Central situation at i m. 
from the rly. sta. on Mount 
Road. 

The Adyar Club admits 
ladies as well as gentlemen ; 
it is 3 m. S. of Madras 
Club, and in its grounds 
the Madras Boat Club has 
its sheds. Gymkhana Club 
(Island); Madras Cricket 
Club and grounds, 
Chepank. 

Restaurants and Con- 
fectioners : D'Anzelis 

and Doraswamy, both in 
Mount Road ; Harrison ^ 
Co,, Broadway. 

Consuls : Most countries 
are represented by Consuls 
or Consular Agents. 

Taxi-cabs : a few cars 
can be hired from Gully dr 
Co., Popbam’s Broadway. 

Hackney Carriages may 
be obtained through the 
hotels, or from the ‘ ‘ Stable 
Company ” and livery 
stable keepers. The hack- 
ney carriages are very 1 
bad ; fares usually from 5 rs. 


to 7 rs. for whole day, 3 rs. 
for half a day. 

Dentists : Mr C. F. Bad- 
cock, Egmore; Dr Eaton, 
Mount Road. 

Drapers: Oakes dr Co., 
Smith dr Andre; White 
away, Laidlaw dr Co.; 
Wrenn Bennett dr Co , ; 
Mount Road. 

Creneral Merchants : 
Oakes dr Co. : Speyicer dr 
Co. 

Jewellers: P. Orr dr 
Sons, Mount Road ; 
Framjee Pestonjee Bhu 7 n- 
^ara. Mount Road ; Ran- 
ganadha Tawker, Mount 
Road. 

Iiibrary : Connemara 

Public Library, Egmore. 

Market : Moore Central 
Market, near Central rly- 
sta. 

Medical Men ; The 
officers at the several 
Government Hospitals. 

Missions : The S.P G. 
(M ission House in Rundall’s 
Road, Vepery) serve the 
following Churches — St 
Thome, St Paul's (Vepery), 
and St John's (Egmore), 
and have charge of a Theo- 
logical College in Sullivan’s 
Gardens ; also of schools 
and orphanages. C.M.S. 
(at Egmore), Holy Trinity 
Church ; Divinity School, 
and Harris High School ; 
R. C. Church, Armenian St. 

There are also other Mis- 
sions : U.F. Church of Scot, 
land, Lutheran, Wesleyan , 
and A merican Baptist. 

Newspapers : Daily 

Papers, The Madras Mail, 
The Madras Times, The 
Hindu, New India, The 
Indian Patriot, Justice. 

Opticians : P. Orr dr 
Sons, W. E. Smith dr Co., | 
Lawrence dr Mayo, and i 
Ernest Barnes — all in 
Mount Road. 

Photographers : Willie 
Barke. Mount Road, 
Nicholas dr Co.j Wallajah 
Road. 

Railways : There are 
two railway systems ter- 
minating at Madras : — 

(1) Madras and S. Mah- 
ratta Railway; (a) S.W. 
line for Bangalore, Nilgiris, 
West Coast and South-West 
Districts; (b) N.W. line 


for Guntakal, Wadi, the 
Deccan Districts and Bom- 
bay, and for Bezva.da, Viza”- 
gapatam, Cuttack, and 
Calcutta. 

(2) South Indian Railway 
for Tanjore, ^ Madura, 
Trichinopoly, Tinnevelly, 
Quilon, and Tuticorin and 
Colombo. 

Steamship Agencies : 
British India S. N. Co,; 
Binny dr Co., Frequent 
sailings for Coast Ports, 
Calcutta, Burma, Straits 
Settlements, Colombo for 
London. 

Messageries MaHtimes, 
Volkart Bros. Once a 
month between Calcutta 
and Colombo and back, 
calling at Madras and 
Pondicherry. 

P. dr O. S. N. Co., Best 
dr Co. The Company’s 
ships do not call at Madras, 
but the Agents effect book- 
ings via Bombay, Calcutta, 
and Colombo. 

Asiatic S.N. Co., Wilson 
dr to. For Coast Ports, 
Calcutta, Burma, Anda- 
mans, etc. 

Clan Line, Gordon, 
Woodroffe dr Co. 

Bibby Line and Orient 
Pacific Line, Leighton dr 
Co. 

Ellerman s City and Hall 
Lines, Best Co. 

Tailors : Smith drAndH, 
Moses dr Co ; Oakes dr Co.— 
all in Mount Road- 

MADUGODA, R.H., 662. 

MADURA (R). 589 - 

D.B. close to rly. sta. 
Sleeping accommodation 
at the rly. sta. 

Bank: Bank of Madras. 
Glnh : Madura Club^ 2J 
m. from the rly. sta. 
Conveyances : poor. 
GrUides : 2 rs. per diem. 

MAGAR PIR, 364. 
MAGWE, 637. 

MAHABALESHWAR, 479> 
480. 

Hotels : Race View H., 
Fountain //.—both good, 
fine views; Central H.- 
Ripon H. 

Gluh with bedrooms at- 
tached. 

Government Mail Motor 
Contractors : Frenchman, 
Brearley dr Co. 



INDEX AND DIRECTORY 


715 


Motor Cars from Poona, 
in 4^ hrs. Frenchman, 
Brearlcy Co. of Poona 
should be asked for the 
rates and rules. 

Mail Motor Car: (15 Oct. 
to 15 Dec., 15 March to 15 
June), 10 rs. par seat, 
MAHABALIPUEAM, 599- 
MAHABAN, 223-224. 

MAHABHAKATA, Ixxi, ixX.W, 
61, 163, 251, 283, 285, 286, 
354 , 531- 

MAHAN AD I RIVER, 120. 
AflAHA OYA, E.H , 667. 
M.AHARA, 658, 
MAHARAJPUR, 94, * 49 - 
MAHASU, 290, has no D B., 
but an hotel owned by Mrs 
Ho*tz of Simla. 

MAKE, 569, 57 ^- 577 - 
MAHENDRAOIRI, 456- 
MAHESH, q6. 

MAHIM, 102. 

Scottish Orphanage, 

established 1859, the only 
institution of its kind in the 
Bombay Presidency, 
MAHMUD BIGARA, 167, 
171, 173, 175, 177, 178, 179- I 
180, 206, 208. 

MAHMUD, EMPEROR OF 
OHAZNJ, Ixu, Ixiv, 61, 123, 
iSl, 189, 212, 214, 220, 224, 
305, 312, 328, 355, 375- 
MAHMUD KOT(R.), 325- 
MAHOBA, D.B. , 160. 

MAHKATTAS, IxXxi.Y, 3, 28-29, 

31, 41, 93, 115, 144, ^45t 
146, 148, 164, i66, 170, 1S7, 
189, 230, 240, 268, 2S4, 285, 
293, 466-7, 470, 472, 481, 
483, 484, 504. 

MAHRAULI (Delhi), z3o, 
315- 

MAHULI, 483. 
MAKARPURA, 16S. 
MAKLT HILLS, 361. 

D.B. (necessary to brins: 
food) 15 m. from Tatta ; the 
building was originally a 
mosque. 

MAKRANA, 176. 
MALAKAND PASS, 336. 

MALCOLM, SIR JOHN, 5, lO, I9, 

T23, 484, 55 
MALDA, 415- 

MALIK A-MBAR, 102 , 104, IIO, 
III. 

MALOT. 328- 
MALTA, xliii. 

HJ4BVALLI, D.B., good, 530- 


MAMALLAPURAM. scq. j 
MANAAR, R.H., 684. j 
MANASBAL LAKE, 343- | 

MANCHHAE LAKE, 367. j 

Any one making a shoot- 
ing expedition on this lake 
will find, not Sehwan, but 
Babak Road Station (131m. 
from Lukkur) the nearest 
rly. sta. to the lake. .Ar- 
rangements for shikaris and 
camels should be made 
through the station-master 
at P,abak Road Station. 
MA1JDALAY,D.B., 606, 610, 
611-14, 621-2, 624, 626. 

Hotel; H. de Villa, 
the only H. in 22nd St, ; 
is not fit for European 
guests, but the D B, can 
be used. 

Communicatiozis : Irra- 
ivaddy flotilla Coy., Ex- 
press Steamers from Ran- 
goon ev^erj' Wednesday and 
Saturday, from Mandalay 
every Friday and Tuesday. 
Also daily rail service 
between .Mandalay and 
Rangoon, Mandalay and 
, Ma^ myo, and Mandalay 
and Amarapura. 

Club : The Upper 

Burma Club. 

Bankers : National 

Bank of India, B. Road. 

Missions : V Inchester 
Brotherhood {Church ot 
England); American 
Baptist ; I f 'esleyan : K.C. 
Church. 

Chemists : Curtis Cf Co.; i 
the English Pharmacy, \ 
B. Road. 

Drapers and General 
Outfitters : Whiteaway, 

Laidlavj Co. ; R<rwe 

<5r» Co. ; Borvyer Serwden 
Co., all in C Road. 
Conveyances : Ticca- 
gharis (iron-tyred cabs of 
an inferior description and 
a few rubber-t>Ted) can be 
hired at fixed rates bv time 
or distance. A barouche for 
sight - seeing can be ob- 
tained. An electric tram- 
seivice has been laid down 
in Mandalay and should 
prove helpful to visitors. 

General Stores and Pro- 
vision Merchants : 
Hollees Stores, Merchant 
Street. 

Newspapers; The Man- 
dalay Herald and The 
upper Burma Gazette. 


Photographers : Creon- 
lianski’s, C. Road ; 
Johannes If’ Co.., C. Road 
MANDAPAM, 593, 594 * 
MANDASOR, 128. 
MANDHATA, 123. 
MANDLA, 117, 118. 
MANDOR, 185, 186. 

MANDU, 124, 125, 280 
MANDVI, 217. 
MANGALORE, D.B., 571. 
Steamship Agency: 
British India S.N. Co. 
Shepherd's steamer twice 
weekly in the cold weather. 
Bank : Bank of Madras. 
Mission : R.C. Cathe- 
dral. 

MANGI, 371- 
MANHARPUR 120 
MANIA, 158. 

MANIKPUR (R.), 41, 162. 
MANIKYALA, 203, 3*9- 
MANIPUR, 440- 
MANIYACHI, 396- June. 

for Tinnevelly and Quilon. 
MANMAR (R.), D.B., 35- 


MAN SERA, D.B , 349. 

MAN SINGH, RAJA OF GWV^LIOR, 

148, 153 - 

M-AN SINGH, RAJA OF J.AIPUR, 

66, 197, 327^ 415 
MANU, Ixvi, Ixxxvi- 
M ARAD AN A, 657, 668. 
MARAVILA, B.H. good, 

676. 

MARBLE BOCKS, 2 small 
D.Bs., 40. Tonga from 
Jubbulpore, 4 rs. 

.MARCO POLO, 30, 212, 571, 
596. 597- 
MARDAN, 336. 

MAR GALA, 330. 
MARGAN, 347. 


MARIAM UZ ZAM.ANI, 242, 245. 
MARI AON, 3S3, 388, 401. 
MARSEILLES, xlii. 
MARTABAN, 623, 639. 
MARTAND, 346. 

MARPI.N', GE-N. CLAUDE, 39S, 
400. 

MAR WAR, June., 184, 187. 


MARVVARlS, PHF, 54, 126 . 

.MASHOBRA, 290. 

MASK ELI YA, 664, 
MASULIPATAM, D.B., 
459 - 

MATALE, 661, 679- . „ 

B.H. good, practically an 
hotel. 



INDEX AND DIRECTORY 


716 


MATARA, 674. 

B.H. very comfortable 
Hotel. 

MATHEBAN, 461. 

Much frequented from 
Sat. till Mon. in the season. 

Hotels : Granville H. ; 
Metropole H. ; Clarendon 
H. 

M ATI AN A, D.B., 290, 291. 
MATLA, 84. 

MAH, 159. 

D.B. \ m from rly. sta. 
MAURITIUS, 94. 
MAURYAN DYNA.STY, 
the, 45, 73, 74. 
MAYAVEBAM (B.) D.B , 
578, 580. 

MAYMYO, 631. 

MAYO, EARL, clxiii, 43, 82, 

SSj 1943 3 ‘ 28 * 

MAYO MINE, 328. 

MECCA, lii, Lxiii. 
MEDAHAMAHA NU- 
WARA, 662. I 

MKEAN MEER, 320. 
MEERUT, D.B., 293. ; 

Hotelsi The Kmpress //., 
Pir' Bux's; Roberts: Em- 
mers H. 

Club: W heeler C. 

Bank: B.of upper India. 
Motors ; Messrs Gradti- 
atc Bros . ; Dinshasv tr 
Co. ; Provincial Motor 
Co. 

Missions : C.M.S . ; do. 
Zenana; Methodist Epis- 
copal; R.C. Church ; 
Scotch Church. 

MEGASTHENES, Ixx.wi. 
MEHKAR 1 13. 
MTiTTMADARAD , 171. 

Good Waiting Boom at 
rly. sta. 

MEHSANA, 180. ^ 

MEIKTILA, 623. 

MENNEGATTI, SR , 261. 

MERCARA, 535. 

MERGUI, 642. 

MERTA ROAD, 187. 

MESTON, SIR, J , 42. 
METCALFE, SIR C., 8l, 9I, 

295- 

METTUPALArYAM(R.),56i, 
Junction of Madras and 
Nilgiri Mountain Railway 
to Coonoor and Ootaca- 
raund. 


Warm wraps should be 
kept bandy. | 

MHOW, 124. 1 

D.B. ; Refreshment and i 
Waiting Room at rly. sta. ! 

MIANI, 361. 

MIANI (Rathiawar), 216. 

MIDNAPORE, 442. 

D.B, close to rly. sta. 

Mission : A merican 

Baptist. 

MIHINTALE, B.H., 677. 684. 
MINBU, 637. 

MINGUN, 630. 

MINHLA, 637. 

MINNERI, 687, 692. 

MINTO, LORD, 94, 136, 259. 

MIRAJ (B.), 484. 

D.B. near sta. 

MIR JAFIR, 76. 

MIR KASIM, 49, 294. 

MIRZAPUR, D.B., 46. 

Club: MirzapurC. 

MITHRl, 368. 

MIYAGAM, 167. 

m‘leod, sir D., 312, 3x3. 

MOCHA, liii. 

MOGOK, D.B., 632, 633. 

MOHPANI COAL- 
MINES, 39. 

MOKAMEH(B.), 49^ 419- 

MOKAND«DARRA, 169. 

MONGHYR, D.B., Hotel, 
419. 

MONTGOMERY (B.), D.B., 
354 - 

MONTGOMERY, SIR R., 309, 

320, 354 - 

MONTPEZIB CAVES, 27. 

MORADABAD, 372. 

D.B. about 2 m. N. of rly, 
sta. ; Waiting Rooms at rly. 
sta. 

Hotel : Imperial H. 

MORAR, 147. 

I MORATUWA, 672. 

MORMUGAO, 487. I 

Old Palace H. good. 

MORTAKKA, R.H., 122. 

Starting-place for Unkarji. 

MORVI, 201, 217, 468. 

MOTIHARI (D.B.), 420. 

MOHLMEIN, 623, 639-642. 

Hotels : Bellas.^ Silver- 
dale and Criterion. 

N.B. — Board and lodging 
obtainable at the Circuit 
House on application to 
the Deputy Commissioner, 
if the hotels are full. 


Club : The Gymkhana. 

Bankers : Bank 0/ 

Bengal. 

Ctieinists : The New 
Medical Hall, Lower Main 
Road ; Dr Hynes, Dis- 
pensary, Maingay Street ; 
De Souza's, Lower Main 
Road ; The Moubnein 
Pharinacy, Mission Road. 

Conveyances : 

Motors ; Mr M itch ell, 
Moulmein Ice Factory, 
Maingay Street ; Mr 
Lamb, Upper Main Road. 

Carriages : Mr Lamb's 
Livery Stables, Upper 
Main Roa(|. 

Hackney Carriages : ist 
class rubber-tyred, and 2nd 
class generally superior to 
those met with in other 
towns in Burma. 

Medical Officer : The 
Civil Surgeon. 

Newspaper: The Moul- 
mein Advertiser', The 
Moulmein Daily Nezvs. 

MOUNT ABU, 181. 

Good Refreshment and 
Waiting Rooms at Abu 
Road Sta. 17 m. from Mt. 
Abu. 

Conveyances. Sec Abu 

Road. 

D.B. on the hill. 

Hotel : Rajputana H. 
good. 

Bazar for English stores. 

Club ; Rajputana C. 

Missions: C.M.S. : do. 
Zenana; R.C. Cathedral. 

MOUNT LAVINIA, 657, 672- 

Hotel : Grand H., first- 
rate accommodation. 

MUDKl, 298, 353. 

Mughal Emperors, Ixv. 

MUGHALSARAI (B,), 46, 
380- 

MUHAMMAD, Iviil, Ixiii. 

.MUHAMMAD GHAUS, 15I. 

MUHAMM.\D GHORI, 248. 

MUHAMMAD SHAH, KING OF 
DELHI, 251, 274, 286. 


MULTAN, 355. 

Refreshment and Waiting 
Rooms : D.B. about i m 
N. of the rly. sta. 

Hackney Garrises ; 
There are practically no 
I St and 2nd Class hackney 
carriages ; those of Classes 
III. and IV. and tongas 


are chiefly in use. 

Fares Cl. ill. IV., 
Single hour 7 as. 4 ns 
and less for subsequent hrs. 



INDEX AND DIRECTORY 


717 


MUMTAZ MAHAL, 37, 234. 
MUNRO, SIR HECTOR, Cxivi, 

47 , 547 , 569, 576. 

MUNRO, SIR T., 474, 477, 520, 
548 , 549, 551- 
MURREE, 330, 342. 

Hotels : Po-w ell's H. ; 
Rowbury's H. ; View- 
Jorth , Ghilzic Ledge ; 
LockTxjood H. 

Club : Murree C. 

Batiks \ A llzance ; CoA 's 
Schools I Lawrence 
Asylum; St Denys’ School: 
St Thomas's R.C. College, 
MURSHIDABAD, D.B. at 
Berhampore, 414, 423 
MUSEUMS, iS, 72, 82, 1 16, 132, 
136, 168 , 194, 223, 261, 304, 
337, 364 , 397, 5^9, 555, 556, 
598, 620, 656. 

MUSHKAF, 368, 369. 
MITSSOOREE, 291, 382. 

Hotels : Charleville H, 
(Wutzler’s) very good ; 
Savoy H,y good ; (both on 
Mall) ; IVooduille H. : 
Zephyr Hall H. ; Kenil 
worth Hall H. ; Grand 
Central H. ; H. Cecil and 
several boarding-houses. 

Clubs: Himalaya: 
Happy Valley 
Banks : A IHance Bank 
0/ Simla : A llahabad B. ; 
Bkag^van das B. 

Churches ; Scotch ; R.C, 
and Church of England , 
Christ Church and Union 
Church. 

Newspaper : Mussooree 
Times. 

Chemists : Fitch, Sam- 
tiel, Hammer. 

Dentists : Dr Hunter, 
M. A Shah, Dr Haskew, 
C. Batten. 

Photographers : Rust, 
London Photo Co. 

Drapers : Clark ; Moore; 
T revellion ; Hathaway ; 
HV hiteaway L aid law. 

Schools: St George's 
College; E. /. R. Schools : 
IVoodstock Girls' School; 
Hampton Court ; Caine- 
ville; Convent; IVoodlands. 
MUTTRA, D.B., 83 - 84 , 218 , 
219 , 228 . 

mssions : C.M.S.; Meth- 
odist Episcopal; Wesleyan : 
R.C. Church. 

MUZAFFARPUR, D.B., 

420. 

MYINGYAN, 633. * 


MYITKYINA, 631-2. 

Rly. from ilandalay 
now open. 

MYLAPORK, 550, 557, 558. 
MYMENSINGH (R,), 435*. 
MYOHAUNG, 644. 

MYSORE (R.), DB. near 

535. 

Hotels : Gordon H. fair , ) 
Royal H. 


N 

NABHA, 296. 

NADIA, 99 

NADIR SHAH, KING OF PERSIA, 
Ixiii, Ixiv, 251, 262, 206. 
286. 368- 
NA(iAI, 505. 

NAGAR, 293, 306. 

NAGA RAJAS, 59, 60, 449, 6u2. 
NAGARKOT, 305. 
NAGAUR, 187. 

NAGDA, 12S, 169 
NAGINA (D.B. accommoda- 
tion tolerable), 372. 
NAGORE, 585. 

NAGPUR, D.B., 114-116. 

Kellner s H. close to 
sta. Waiting Rooms at sta. 
Club : Central Pro- 

z ifices. 

Banks: Bankof Bengal ; 
A llahabad Bank. 

Missions : United Frte 
Church 0/ Scotland ; R.C. 
Chzirch ; Scottish Epis- 
copal Mission. 

Chemists : Nicholas ; 

Velloz. 

Hackney Carriages : 

Class I. II. 

Day . 3 rs. 8 as. 3 rs. 8 as. 
Half-day 2 rs. 4 as. 2 rs, 4 as. 
ist hr. . . 12 as. 10 as. 

Subs. hr. . 6 as. 4 as. 
NAGPUR, RAJA OF, 66. 
N.'^IHATI, 97, 422, 425. 
NAINI (R.), 41- 
NAINI TAL, 371, 374, 383, 
Hotels : Metropole H. ; 
Grand Hotel (formerly 
A Ibion ) ; Waverley H. : 
Lake House H. ; Royal 
IL, all from 6-7 rs. 

Club: Naini Tal C., 
near St John’s Church ; 
Indian Club, on the N. 
Mall. 

Banks : A lia habad ; 

Upper India. 


Newspapers : Naini Tal 
Gazette. 

Chemists : Peake Allen; 
Chandler ^ Co. 

Photographer; Lawrie. 
General Merchants : 
Murray Or* Co. ; Skapoor- 
jee ; Gorim Co. 

Drapers : Whiteaway 

L aidlaw ; T revellion ; 
Shirley Smith. 

Tailor: Anderson. 

Jewellers : Ru/ener, 

Landau. 

Hardware Merchants 
and Agents; Matthews 
Co. Krishna Das 
Bros. ; M u n icipa I Markets, 
for all provisions ; Malu 
Tal and Assembly Rooms ; 
Law Library and Jalli Tal 
Skating Rink on the two 
floors. 

From JCathgodam to 
Naini Tal Brewery by 
tonga, sec Kathgodam. 

NAINPUR, 117. 

NAJIBABAD, 372. 

NAKKALA, 690. 

N AT i AN DE, R.H, good, 679. 

NALHATI, 414. 

iNANA FARNAVIS, lO, 31. 

NANAK, GURU, Ixxxvi, 
Ixxxviii, 301. 

NANA SAHIB (dHUNDU PANT). 
lo, 407-40S, 409. 

NAN DANA, 327. 

NANDIDRUG, 522. 

Hotel, managed by pro- 
prietor of Cubbon H., Ban- 
galore, 

NANDOD, 165. 

NANDYAL, 521. 

NANJANGUD, 535. ^ 

NANUOYA (R.), 664. 

NAPIER AND ETTRICK, LORD, 
549, 593- 

NAPIEK of MAGDALA, LORD, 
88, 149, 259, 395, 46S. 

NAPIER, SIR C., 337, 360, 363, 

NARAINA,'“i 93. 

NARA\ANGANJ, D.B., 
437. 

NARBADA RIVER, 39, 40, 
166-7. 

NARI, 371. 

NARKANDA, 200-292. 

D.B. Six rooms, 
splendid view of snowy 
range. 

nXrNAUL, 351. 

NARWANA, 287. 



7i8 


INDEX AND DIkECTORY 


NASIK ROAD, j->. 

Waiting Rooms. Tongas 
on hire (the fares are under 
revision). 

By titne — 

Class 1 . IL 
For day (inside 
Station limits) 3^ rs. rs. 
Per hr. ... 8 as. 6 as. 
Kly. Station to 
City or Dak 

Bungalows . . 1 r. 12 as. 

Tramway to City 4} m. 
distant. 

NASIK, D.B., very good, 

8 rooms, 32. (Application 
for accommodation should 
be made to the manager of 

the D.B. 

Mission: C.M.S. sta. 
at Sharanpur, see p. 33. 

Headquarters of Royal 
Western India Golf Clicb I 
good links. 

NAbIM BAGH, 345. 
NASIRABAD, 134 

D.B., I m. from rly, sta. 
NASIR JANG, 102, 103, 

NAULA, 679. 

NAUPADA, 456. 
NAUSHAHRA, 336. 

D.B. near Post Office. 
NAUSHAHRA (Kashmir), 
347 . 348- 
NAVSARI, 163. 

NAWAB WAZIRS, RINGS OF 
OUDH, Ixiii, 47, 63, 274, 375, 
386, 406. 537. 
NAWALAPITIYA, 663. 
NAWANAGAR, 216. 
NAZARANI CHRIS- 
TIANS, 566. 
NEDAGOLLA, 84. 
NEGAPATAM (R.), 585. 
Steamship Agents : 
B.LS.N. Co„ weekly 
service to coast ports. 
Rooms at railway station 
KEQOMBO, 657, 676. 

R.H. excellent. 

NEILL, BRIG.-GENL., cli, 42, 
62, 89, 392, 393, 393, 396, 

397. 

nellore; 460. 

D.B. good. 

NELSON, LORD, 584. 

NERAL(R ), ;6i. 

Very good Waiting 
Room, with Baths ^ etc., 
at rly. sta. 

NICHOLSON, BRIG.-GENL. JOHN . ! 

cl. 8g, 255-258, 266, 263, '' 
303. 309, 330, 338. , ! 

NIGRITING. 441. ! 

NILGIRI hills, 561 j 


NIMACH (R.), 128. 

D.B. Good Club, with 
cricket ground, etc , at- 
tached. 

l^ISHAT BAGH, 345. 
NIZAM-UD-DIN AULIA 
(Delhi), 103, 251, 252, 259, 
272, 273, 282, 283. 

NIZAMS OF HYDERABAD, 103, 

1 13, 265, 506. 

NORMAN, J. P., 80, 85, 86 
NORTHBROOK, LORD, 9, 80, 
191, 266, 395. 

NORTHCOTE, LORD, 5. 

NOWGONG, D.B., 159. 

j 8 m. from Harpalpur. 
Tonga, 7 rs. 2 as. ; seat in 
mail tonga, 4 rs. and 2 rs. 
NOWGONG (Assam), 438. 

NUNCOMAR, 80, 88. 

NUK JAHAN OR NUK MAHAL, 
EMPRESS, 178, 232, 241, 294, 
322, 344, 346, 436. 

NURPUR, 304. 

NUSHKI, 369, 371. 
NUWARA ELIYA, xxii, 653. 
Hotels: ist class — The 
Grand ; Ne'iu Keena H. 
(annexe to Grand HS) ; 
Carlton H. 

2nd class — Pedro H. ; St 
Patrick's H.; St Bene- 
dict's H, There are also 
Boardin g-houses. 

Clubs : Hill Club ; 

United Club ; Golf Club. 

Stores and Chemists: 
Cargills, L,td. ; St Louis 
Pharmacy; N. Eliya Apo- 
thecaries Co. , Paul, Sons 
^ Co. ; Abram Sailu 
Co. 

The Golf Links are ex- 
cellent, 

NYAUNGU, 633. 


O 

OCHTERLONY, GENL. SIR D , 

,82, 134, 252, -94, 295, 298. 

O LWiYER, SIK, M. F., 309. 

OIL, 6->6. 

OKANDA, 691. 

OKHAMANDAL, 216. 

OLAVAKKOT, 565. 

OiMICHAND, 93. 

ONGOLE, 460. 

OOTACAMTJND, =561-565. 

Hotels : Sylks H. ; 
Centre H. ; Rosemount 
H . ; Shoreham H. ; Long- 
wood H. , Fir Grove H. 

Boarding-houses: Long- 
wood; Alta Villas; West- 
ward Ho! 


Clubs ; Ootacamund C. 
and Gymkhana C. 

Bank : Bank of Madras. 
Schools: Lawrence Asy- 
lum ; Brecks' Memorial 
High School. 

Chemists : IV. E. Smith 
Lf Co. ; and the Nil^iri 
Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd. 
Photographers : Wide 
Kleine ; W. Burke. 
Drapers: Wren Ben- 
nett. 

General Merchants : 

Oakes; Spencer; Wrenn, 
Bennett ^ Co. ; White- 
away, Laidlaw Co. 
Jewellers : Bait on 

.Sons, 

OPIUM, cxlii, 49. 

ORAI (R.), D.B., 146. 
ORCHHA) 144. 

ORISSA, 444. 

OUTRAM, GENL. SIR JAS., 

clii, cliii, 85, 89, 95, 

361, 387. 392-396, 393, 400- 
401. 

OXENDEN, 5, 164. 


P 

PABBI, 337. 

PAG H BAD R A, 184. 
PACHMARHI, 33. 

Hotel: Hill H. 

Tonga and motor from 
Pipana. Tonga 16 rs.; seat 
in motor, generally 8 rs. ; 
special motor 40 rs. 
PAGAN, R.H , 634. 
PiVHLGAM, 347- 
PAKOKKU, 633. 

PAK PATTAN, 354. 
PALAM COTTA, 597. 

Missions: C. A/. .S. Train- 
ing Institution; Schools; 
Sarah Tucker Institution ; 
Tamil Mission Church 
PALAM PUR, 305. 
PALANPUR (R.), D.B., i8i. 
PALETWA, 645. 
PALEZAGHAT, 421. 

PAL GHAT, 565. 
PALHALLAN, 347. 
PAUTANA, 202, 

Doolies can be obtained 
either privately or through 
the officers of the Palitana 
Darbar. 

PALLAI, R.H., 679, 685. 
PALLAVARAM, 559. • 

PALNI HILLS. 

See Ammayanayakkanur. 



INDEX AND DIRECTORY 


719 


PALUTUPANE, B.H., 668. 
PALWAL, 354* 

PAMBAN, 594. 
PANCHGANI, 480. 

PANDAVAS, Ixxii, 286, 381, 
592, 600. 

PANDHABPUR, 473. 
PANDRATHAN, 345. 
I^ANDUA, S5, 416, 418. 
PANDUGHAT, 439, 44i*' 
PANHALA, 485. 

PANIPAT, B.H., Ixiv, 148, 
283-285, 308, 309. 
PANJIM, 487, 490. 
PANKULAM, E.H,, 677. 
PANNIAR, 94, 149. 
PANTELLARIA, xliii. 
PAPANASHAM, 598- 
PARASNATH MOITNTAIN, 
53* 

PARBATI, 471-2. 
PARBATIPUR (E.), 425. 

P ARSIS, xci, 14, 20, 163, 165. 
PARVEZ, PRINCE, 37. 

PASSARA, 666, 691. 
PASTEUR INSTITUTE, 
KASAULI, 28S ; and COO- 
NOOR, 361. 

PATALIPUTRA, 48, 127. 
PATALPANI, 124. 

PATAN (Anhilvara), t8o, i8t. 
PATAN (Kashmir), 344. 
PATAN SOMNATH, 212. 

R.H. of Junagarh State. 
PATHANKOT (B.), D.B., 
303- 

PATIALA, 296. 

PATNA, D.B , 48. 

Missions ; R.C, 

Church. 

PATTADAKAL, 502. 

PATTI KO NBA, 520. 

PATTI POLA, R.H., 666. 
PAWANGARH (Cbam- 

panir), 167. 

PAWANGARH (Kolhapur), 
485 

PAYAR, 346. 

PEARL FISHERY, 685. 

PEEL, SIR WM., CAPTAIN R.N., 
^<^5 394, 400, 4 1 1. 

peepulpatti, 93. 

PEGU (R.), 622. 

Railway : From Bombay 
and Madra« ; Dhond and 
Manmar ; Mahabhalcshwar 
and Bangalore 
PENDRA, 119. 


PENTLAND, LUKII, 548. 

PENUKONDA, 478. 

PERADENIYA, R.H. good, 
659- 

PERIM, Ini. 

PERIYAR, 567. 

PERRON, GENL., 404, 405. 

PERSIAN GULF, 364. 

PEKTAB SINGH, MAJ.-CEN’L., 
MAHARAJA, 180, 185. 

PESHAWAR, D.B. (on Sadr 
Bazar Road), 203, 337. 

Hotel : Dean's H. . near 
the Mall, 7 rs. ; Flash- 
mansi Provincial R. H., 
opposite the rly. sta. 

Club, near the Church. 

Banks: Panjab Banking 
Co. ; Alliance Bank 0/ 
Simla, on the Mall, 

Dealers in 0. Asian 
goods in city : Safdar 
AH; Haji Rahman; iMal 
Chand; The JjiaJ^ul Co. 

Missions : see p. 337. 

R.C. Church. 


Hackney Carriages : 



Class I. 

11 . 

Per day . 

. 4rs. 

3 rs. 

Per ist hr. 

. I r. 

12 as. 

Subs. hr. 

. 8 as. 

6 as. 


Tonga with 2 horses: To 
Ali Masjid, 7 rs. ; to Landi 
Kotal, 14 rs. Permission 
to visit either place must be 
obtained from the Political 
Officer, Khyber. The visit 
to the latter is not now 50 
readily allowed as it was 
some years back. 

PESHWAS (head of THE MAH- 
RATTAS) XC, Cxlvii, lo, 3I, 
33, 40, 70, 145, 158, 284-5, 
407, 465*6, 470-2. 

PETLAD, 170. 

PHALERA(E.), i38, 192. 

PHALLUT, 429- 

PHILLAUR, 298. 

riGOT, LORD, 54S, 550, 551, 

584- 

PILIBHIT, D.B.,373, 383. 

PIND DADAN KHAN, 325. 

PINBRI GLACIER, 385. 

PINJOR, 288. 

PIONEER, the, 44 

PIPARIA, 38- 

D.B. Notice should be 
sent to ensure meals being 
provided. Country carts 
available for luggage, Ton- 
gas available by writing to 
Mail Contractor at Pach- 
marhi. Charge, 16 rs. : seat 
in mail motor, 17, rs. 

PIPRAWA, 421. 


PIR PANJAL, 342, 347, 348. 

PIRTHI, PRITHVI, RAJA (RAI 

pithora), 251, 275, 286, 297, 

p/sGAH PEAK, 339. 
PISHIN, 370. 

PLASSEY, 47, 76, 88, 409, 
422, 572. 


POBANUR (R.), 560, 565- 
Excellent sleeping accom- 
modation at the rly. sta. 
POLGAHAWELA (R.), 
658, 678. 

POLILORE, 532, 547. 
POLLOCK, GENL., 339. 

POLONNARUWA, R. H. 

good and room\ , 687, 692. 


PONDICHERRY, DB., 575, 

577-8. 

Hotels ; Grand Hotel de 
i Europe; Hotel de Paris 
et Londres. 

English Consul : A. H. 
Deane. 


Steamship Agents : 

B.I.S.N. Co. : Messageries 
Mariiimes, Virieux, Agent. 
PONNERI, 460. 


POONA (R.), 467, 479. 

Hotels: Connaught H., 
Napier H. ; Poona H. 
The Connaug^ht H. is at 
present (1917) the best- 
Bank: Bank of Bombay. 
Clubs : IV estem India 
C., Gymkhana C., Royal 
Connaught Boat C., Ladies' 
C., etc,, etc. 

The Boat Club forms 
an important feature in the 
amusements of the place. 
Gymkhana Club and 
Library. A visitor, intro- 
duced by a member, can 
join the Club. On the 
cricket-ground, attached, 
are played the principal 
matches during the mon- 
soon months, 

Golf Club, fair links. 

Mail Contractor : 
Frenchman, B rear ley 
Co, 


Motors can be hired of 
Frenchman, Brearley & 
Co., Messrs Stewart & Co., 
Mehta & Co., Mody’s Cycle 
and Motor ^Iart, and Well- 
ington Cycle Co. Hire 7 
rs. per hr., 50 rs. per diem. 
Outside limits of place, 8 
as. per mile. To Maha- 
baleshwar (in 4 hrs., 3 
passengers), 75 rs. or as 
arranged. During the 
season (June -October) taxi- 
cabs ply for hire. 



720 


INDEX AND DIRECTORY 


Hackney Carriages : 

By time — 

Per day . . 6 rs. 

Half-day . . 4 rs- 

Per hr. . . . i r. 

Large number of fares 
by dictance. 

Newspapers : Deccan 
Herald and Evening Dis- 
patch, 

Dentists : D. //. Davh 
son, H. Bromley. 

Ckemist : Mather. \ 
Photographers : Ste^m- \ 
art; Backhouse. 

Drapers : Badham dr* 
Pile; Whiteanvay Laid law. 

Tailors : Leach 
Webornty. 

General Merchants: 

Ladka Ibrahim; Dorabji 
&r Co. 

Missions : see p. 469. 
R.C. Cathedral; Scotch 
Church. 

Cowley Wantage Mis- 
sion, Panch Howds, Poona 
City. 

C.M.S. station (Mission 
House at Cyprus Lodge), 
Divinity School. 
PORADAHA, 42s, 435 - 
PORBANDAR, D.B., 215, 
216. 

POETO NOVO, 578. 

PORT SAID, xlvi, xlvii. 
PORT SUDAN, lii. 

PORTUGUESE IN INDIA, cIv, 
clvi, 2, 27, 28, 30-1, 92, 97, 
98, 162, 163, 164, 170, 438, 
4S7-490, 525, 558, 565-69, 
570> 578, 585, 607, 621, 651, 
686, 689. 

POSHIANA, D.B., 348. 
PRATAPGAD, 481. 
PRAYAO, 41, 44- 
prince CONSORT, 18, 81. / 

PRINSEP, JAS., 43, 84, 88, 278, 
329, 447. 464. 

PBOME, 637. 

PUNCH, D.B., 342, 340. 
PURANDHAR, 472. 

PURI (Jaganath), 450-454. 
D.B. , ^ m. from rly. sta 
Hotels : Seaside H. , 
Beachll., and Sanaiorittm, 
very fair. 

PURULIA, D.B., 121. 
PUSHKAR LAKE, D.B., 191. 
PUSSELLA. 669. 

PUTTALAM, R H. good, 676. 
692. 

PYINMANA, 623 


Q 

QUEEN ALEXANDRA, S7. 

QUEEN EMPRESS V'ICTORIA, 
liv, 9, 41, 43, 44, 71, 81, 85, 
86, 170, 179, 263, 266, 

300, 307, 309, 31 1, 330, 344, 
363. 3^3, 397, 401, 407, 412, 
529. 550 , 555, 620. 

QUEEN MARY, 1 6, 87, 319, 508. 

QUETTA (R.), D.B ,Lourde's 
369 > 371- 

Clnh : Quetta C. 

Bank : A IHance Bank 

0/ Simla, 

Missions : C, M'S. , P . C- 
Churck ; Scotch C hutch. 
Methodist Episcopal C. 

Chemists : Milne ; Bliss, 

Outfitters : Ball, Moody 
^ Co,, Phelps Co, 
Hackney Carnages : 

Rates by time and dis- 
tance have been settled in 
great detail, and should be 
ascertained. 

QUILON, D B , 597. 

QUINTON, 440. 

R 

RAE BARELI, 374. 

RAGALA, 664. 

RAGAMA, 657. 

RAGHOJI III., I15 

RAICHUR (R ), D.B., 476. 

RAIDANI, 349. 

RAIGARH, 119, 120. 

RAIPUR, D.B., ng. 

: RAIWIND (R.), 354. 

RAJAMUNDRY (R.), 458. 

RAJAORI, D.B., 348. 

RAJKOT, 201, 216. 

D.B. near the Jn. Rly. Sta 

RAJMAHAL, 414. 

RAJPUR, D.B., 382. 

Hotels : Royal H. , 

Ellenborough H. Hurst’s 
Agency for jhampans, 
ponies, and dandies avail- 
able. Forwarding Agencie>, 
Lawson, Lindsay & Co. 

RAJPUR A, 296. 

RAKWANA, 670. 

RAMATIRTHAM, 457. 

RAMAYANA, Ixxi, ixxx^, 
61, 65, 594. 

RAMBHA, 456. 

RAMBODA, R.H., 665. 

RAMBUKKANA, R H.,65S. 

RAMESWARAM, 585, 594. 

RAMNAD, 594. 


RAMNAGAR, 63, 65, 71. 

RAM PUR (Kashmir), 343. 

RAMPUR (Simla), 290, 291. 
RAMTEK, 1 16. 

RAN OF CUTCH, 201. 

RAN AG HAT, 425. 

RANCHI, 121. 

RANDER, 165. 

RANGARUN, 429. 

RANGNU RIVER, 430. 

RANGOON, 606, 607, 608. 
610-612, 614, 615. 

Hotels: Strand on Strand 
Road; Minto Mansions, 
Halpin Ruad ; Royal, 4 
Merchant St. ; Criterion 
on Dalhousie St. 

English Boarding- 
houses: Allandale, God- 
win Road : Croton Lodge. 
Ahloin Road. 

Restaurants : at above 
hotels; also at Romani s, 
corner of Phayre and Mer- 
chant Streets, 

Cluhs : Pegu Club, Prome 
Road Cantonments; Burma 
Club, Merchant Street ; 
Rangoon Club, Lake 
Avenue ; Gymkhana Club, 
Halpm Road — a favourite 
resort in the evenings. 
Lady members. Tennis 
courts, billiard tables, read- 
ing - room , bar, etc. M ilitary 
band most evenings ; Boat 
Club, Royal Lakes \Kokine 
Club, Kokine. 

Agents : Thos. Cook Lf 
Son, Phayre Street ; .A. 

Scott Co., Merchant 

Street. 

Bankers : Bank 0/ Ben- 
gal, Sule Pagoda Road ; 

I Chartered Bank 0/ India^ 

A ustralia, and China : 
National Bank 0/ India ; 
Bank 0/ Rangoon, Phayre 

! St. ; Hongkong and Shang- 

I hai Banking Corporation , 

Netherlands Trading 

I Society, Merchant Street. 

Booksellers : Myles 

Standisk Sf Co., Mer- 
chant Street ; Smart 
Mookerdum, Barr Street ; 
.American Baptist Mission 
Press, Merchant .Street. 

Chemists : E. M, dp 
Souza < 5 ^ Co., Dalhousie 
Street ; Rangoon Medical 
Hall, Merchant Street; 
Sun DrugCo.,'iv\t. Pagoda 
Road. 



INDEX AND DIRECTORY 


721 


Consuls: Most countries I 
a e represented by Consuls j 
0 Vice-Consuls. 

France^ J. Scott; Italy, 1 
J. Meikle, U.S.A., W. 1 
Roderick Dorsey. ! 

Conveyances : Hackney 
carriages, drawn by single 
ponies, can be hired at 
niudeiate charges, viz , ist 
class, ist hour, i r , and 
succeeding hour 12 as. ; 
2nd class, ist hour, 12 as. , 
and succeeding hour 8 as. ; 
not exceeding 2 miles 8 as. ; 
each additional mile, 4 as 
For hackney carriages of 
the and chss the fare to be 
charged is according to the 
tune or distance rate at the 
‘''ption of the hirer e.xpressed 
at the commencement of 
the hiring ; if not otherwise 
expiessed, the fare is to be 
paid according to time. 
The drivers are Indians 
who do not understand 
English ; they understand 
Hindustani and Burmese. 

Taxi-Cab$ are numerous, 
easily obtainable. Fares : 
between 6.30 a.m. and 10 
P. u,, S as. per mile; S as. 
for ist mile, and 2 as. for 
each subsequent ^ mile ; 
between lo p.m. and 6.30 
A.vt., 12 as. per mile ; S as. 
tor ist 1172 yards^ and 2 
as. for each subi,ee|uent 
294 yards. 

Craftsmen: The princi- 
pal Burmese silversmiths, 
goldsmiths, and wood carv- 
er.; are to be found in God- 
win Road ; specimens of 
Burmese wood carving can 
also be obtained at the Cen- 
tral Jail; images of Gaud- 
ama in brass and alabaster, 
and kalagas (applique 
w'ork) in Kemmendine. 
Dealers m these and Ori- I 
ental goods, Hirst, Phayre ] 
St \ Goona Mai Parasram, 
ji Merchant St, ; Khan- 
chand Tcjatnal, 82 Dal- 
huusie St. 

Dentists: IP. M. Cam- 
eron: P. U'. Rans/ord : 
IF. (r. T/iomJfson ; A. M. 

Murray; //. B. Osbo>n; 
J-H Drinkall; T.Satcme. 

^ General Stores ; Senti 
Co., Merchant Street: Bar- 
nett Bros.. Sule Pagoda 
Road. 

Hairdressers : iVatson 
<5^ Son, Phayre Street ; 
aEo at hotels. 


Medical Men; The 
Civil Surgeons at the 
General H Oi>piiz\ Vr Foy ; 
Dr Pedey ; Dr Findlay; 
Dr Black; Dr Pearse; 
Dr Spence. 

Outfitters : Roxve Co.; 
Whiteaway, Laidiaw 
Co. : Botoyer &A Sozoden ; 
H'atson Son; Brisbane 
Brat ley ; Maejie Co. 

Missions : Anglican 

.American Baptist ; Scotch 
Church ; K.C. Church. 

Newspapers: The two 
leading English newspapers 
are the Rangoon Gazette 
and the Rangoon Times, 
and rhe leading vernacular 
newspaper is the Friend of 
Burma. 

Photographers : D. 

Ahtija ; Samuel, both in 
Sule Pagoda Road. 

Railways : There are tw-o 
lines out of Rangoon — 

(1) The Irrarjjaddy Line 
running to Prome, and con- 
necting with Henzada and 
liassein 

(2) The Sittang Line 
running to Pegu (branch to 
Moulmein), Toungoo, and 
IMandalay, and thence to 
j\lv itkyina. 

The terminus for both 
lines is at King George 
Avenue. The Irrawaddy 
line has pick-up stations 
at Godwin Road, Prome 
Road, and Alon,^ and a 
large station at Kemmen- 
dine. 

Steamship Companies: 

Bibby Line, British India 
S.N., Bulloch Bros. RCo., 
Strand Road : Patrick 

Henderson L ine. and 
Bil'hy Line \ Bulloch Bros. 
Ov' Co . Strand Road, and 
Steel Bros. Merchant 

Street: P. O. Line. 
Thos. Cook K.' Son, Phayre 
Street, and Gillanders 
Arbuthnot, Strand Road. 

Tramways; An electric 
tramway runs from the 
Strand Road to the Great 
Pagoda along China Street 
and Pagoda Road, another 
line along Dalhousie Street 
from Kemmendine to Paz- 
undaung and a third line 
along Strand Road from 
Lanmadaw' to Dunnedaw. 

RANIGANJ, 3 D.Bs., 5-1-55- 
Inspection Bungalow. 

2Z 


BAKIKHET, D.B., 384. 
RANIPET, 537. 

RANJIT RIVER, 429, 430. 

RANJIT SINGH, MAHARAJA, 
Ixxxvii, 6g, 298, 299, 303, 
308, 309, 313, 316, 317*318, 
221-322, 335, 341, 353, 355 , 
45t* 

RANNA, B.H. good, 675. 
BATANPUR, 1 1 9. 

RATLAM, D.B. (R.), 128. 
BATNAPUBA, R.H. good, 

66g, 671. 

RATTAN PIR, 348. 
RAUZA, 101-102. 

See Ellora. 

RAWALPINDI (B.), 330, 

342. 

Hotels: Flashman's H., 
and Imperial H. are the 
best ; Cantonment H., near 
sta. ; R oyal H. ; Skakzada 
H.; Newholdt H., fair. 
Gluh : Raxval Pindi C. 
Banks : A iliance Bank; 
Cox’s Bank ; Northern 
Bank of India : .5 zml Pan- 
jab Bank; Panjab National 
Bank , Co-operative Bank. 

Missions : American 

Presbyterian ; Scotch 

Church; R.C. Church; 
S.F.G. 

Chemist : Wilson. 
Draper; Broom. 

General Merchants : 

Jamasji Sons. 

Tonga Agents : (for 
jSIurree and Kashmir), The 
Imperial Carrying Co. 
Bootmaker: Ross. 
Tailors: Ranken, Sharjo; 
Pearson. 

Hackney Carriages : 

Class 1. 11. 

ist hr. . I r. 12 as. 

Sub. hr. , 8 as. 6 as. 

Tonga, I hr. 8 as. ; subs, 
hr. 4 as. 

kEay, lord, 5 , 8. 

RED SEA, the, li 
RENIGUNTA (R.), 478- 
Junction for Tirupati and 
S.I.R., and for Nellore. 
Rooms at rly. sta. 

RET I (R. and good rly. 

R H.), 358. 

REWAH, 41- 
REWARI (B.), 351. 

R.H. not far from rly. sta. 
RINDLI, 368. 

RIPON, LORD, 554. 

RITCHIE, W., 8$. 

ROBERTS, LORD, 85- 



722 


INDEX AND DIRECTORY 


KOE, SIR T., 37, 125, 166, 172, 
189. 

ROHILLAS, the, 373, 508. 
BO£[BI (a District Bungalow 
for Government Officers), 

358, 365* 

ROHTAS, D.B., 52, 327. 
BOOEKEE, D.B., 372. 

ROSE, SIR HUGH, LORD 
STRATHNAIRN, cliii, cHv, 

^43’ ^45i ^47^ 149 
RUBY MINES, BURMA. 
632. Motor Service from 
Thabeikkyin in 6 hrs. 

RUK (B.), D.B., 366, 367. 
RUMMIN DEI, 421. 
RUPAR, 298. 

RUPNARAIN RIVER, 100. 
RUPiNATH, 39. 
RUWANWELLA, R.H., 

66g. 

S 

SABARKU.M, 429. 
SABARMATI, 180, 200. 
SABATHU, 288. 

SADHARA, 143. 

SADR AS, 602. 

SAGAING, 630. 

SAGAR ISLAND, go, 100. 
SAHABANPUB (B.), D.B., 
94, 295, 371. 

SAHETH-MAHETH, 375, 
SAHIBGANJ (E.), 49. 
SAHRI, 349. 

SAIDi^AD, D.B., 348. 
SAIDAPE r, 556. 

SAIYAD AHMAD KHAN, SIR, 
404. 

SAKYaMUN[, 61, 421. 

SALAR JANG, SIR, III, 46S, 
508, 510, 512. 

SALBAI, 3. 

SALE, SIR R., 339, 353. 

SALE RASA, iiS. 

SALEM (B.), 559. 

Starting-point for Yer- 
caudand theShevaroyHilis. 
The town of Salem is 4 m 
from the rly. It is not 
passed on the way to Yer- 
caud. 

Sleeping accommodation 
at the rly. sta. 7 m. to the foot 
of the Shevaroys (jhatkas 
available, I r,). 7 m. farther 
up the Ghat to Vercaud 
(chairs, each coolie 6 as.). 
SALKELD, LT , 85, 258. 

SALSETTE ISLAND, 2, 
31, 162. 


SALT, cxxiv, 188, 326. [ 

SALUYAN KUPPAN, 599. ‘ 
SAMAGUTING, 440. i 

SAMALKOT, 437- j 

SAMASATA, 35S. 1 

SAMASTIPUR, 419- i 

SAMBAL, 343. 1 

SAMBALPUR, D.B., and , 
Circuit House, 120. ! 

SAMBHAB I.AKE, 188. j 

SAMRU, BEGAM, 265, 294-295- j 
SAMRU, W. REINHARDT, 49, j 
>30, 241, 294. 1 

SAMUDRAGUPTA, 43, | 
223. ' 

SANAWAR, 288. j 

SANCHI (Gt. Tope), 84, 135, 
136 7, 203. 

D.B. good, but provisions 
should be taken. 
SANDAKPHU, 429. 
SANGAM (Poona), 469. 
SANGANER, 198. 
SANGRUR, 296 
SANJAN, 163. 

SANTAHAR JUNCTION, 
425. 

SANTALS, the, 419. 
SARAIKALA, 331, 334. 
SARANDA FORESTS, 120. 
SABDHANA, D.B., 294. 
SABBHEJ, 172, 179. 
SABNATH, 71, 84. 
SASARAM, D.B., 52. 

SASSOON, DA\ ID, 13. 

SASSOON, SIRA., lO, I3, 15, l 3 . 

SATABA, 481. 

Good Waiting Room nt 
station. D.B. at Satara, 
SATGAON, 97, 99. 

SATI CHAURA GHAT, 
409, 412. 

SATNA(R.),D.B.,4i. Tonga 
dak to Rewah 31 m., 10 rs. 
SATPURA HILLS, 114, 115, 
118. 

SATBUNJAYA HILL, 203, 

211. 

SAUGOB, D.B., T43. 

SAUNDERS, C. B., 373. 

SAWAI MADHUPUR, 170. 
SCHWARTZ, 551, 582, 5S4, 
585. 1 

SCINDIA, MAHAR.AJAS OF 1 
GWALIOR, XC. XCl, 37, 68, 
II2, 127, 144, 147, 149, 151, ; 
1S9, 200, 218, 230, 252, 284, 
40J-4, 473- 
SEALDA, 422. 

SECUNDERABAD, 112, 514. 


Hotels : The Parade H.; 
Montg^ov.ery //. 

Club : United Service 
r. , Gymkhana. 

Photographer : Raja 

Dindayal. 

SEHGRE. 127. 

SEHWAN, 3^6 

D.B. It IS necessary for 
the traveller to bring pro- 
visions with him. 

SENCHAL, 430. 

SEONl, n8. 

SERAM, 505. 

SERAMPOBE. 56, 95. 

Missions . Baptist Col- 
lege and Schools : Zenana. 

SERAPEUM xlix 

SERINGAPATAM, 510, 532. 

R.H. at Darya Daulat 
Bagh may be used by 
oermjssion of the Darbar, 

SEVEN PAGODAS, 599. 
See Maiiiallapuram. 

The journey is best made 
from Madras via the 
Buckingham Canal in a 
house-boat — a comfortable 
.night journey. 

SHADIPORE, 343. 

SHAHABAD, 476. 

SHAHAB-UD-DIN GHORl, ixii, 
Ixiv, Ixv, 61, 72, 276, 27S, 
286, 297, 352, 405. 

SHAH ALAM, Ixv, 252, 
262, 269, 2S1, 424. 

SHAHBAZGARHI, 336, 
450- 

SHAHDABA (Delhi), 293. 

SHAHDABA (Lahore), 321, 
322. 

SHAH JAHAN, EMBEIROR, l\iii, 
Kiv, Ixv, cvi, 55, 97, qg, 
lOi, 133. 144. J57, 1S4, 189, 
I9I, 224, 230, 232, 234, 

23 f?, 237 238, 240, 241, 2^1, 
264, 266, 269, 270, 271, 287, 
30S, 313, 316, 317, 319, 320, 

325, 362, 373 415- 

SHAHJAHANPUR (R ), 
374- 

Club I Shahjahanpur C. 

SHAH PUR A 39 
SHAHR-I-BAHLOL, 536, 
338 

SHAIKHPURA, 322. 

shalimar gardens, 269, 319, 
345. 

SHARANPUR, 3^. 

SHAKKI DYNASTY OF JAUNPUE, 

SHEKOHABAD, 405. 

SHELABAGH, 370. 

SHENCOTTAH, 597. 



INDEX AND DIRECTORY 


723 


SHERGARH FORT, 157. 

SHERSHAH, D.B , 357. 

SHER SHAH, EMPEROR, IxV, 
46, 53, 14S, 157, 161, 251. 
271, 284, 324, 327, 405. 

SHEVAEOY HILLS (Yer. 
caud), 559. See Salem. 

Hotel: Fair Lawns. 

Boarding-liouse kept by 
Miss Norjo-i. 

SHIKARPUR (Kashmir) 
D.B., 349. 

SHIKARPUR (Sind) (good 
rly. R.H.), 367- 

SHILLONG^, D.B , 439. 

Hotels : La Chanmiere ; 
Pineivood H. ; Bonme 
Brae and Ferndale H , , 
Motor seivice (6-9 seats) 
daily to Gauhati Motor 
fares i3 rs. per seat. 20 
seers of luggage allowed 
Luggage by bullock-caits. 
in 48 hours, 2rs. periiiaund. 

Protestant Pro-Cath- 
edral 

SHIMOGA, 523. 

SHIPKI PASS. 290-1. 

SHOLAP0R, D B., 474, 490. 

SHORANUR (R.), 565. 

June, of branch line to 
Cochin. 

SHUJA, SULTAN, 97. 

SHUJA-UD-UAULA, 47, 375-6. 

SHUPIYAN, D.B., 348, 

SIALKOT, 323. 

Good D.B. 

SIBl (R.), D.B., 368, 370-1. 

SIBPUR, 77. 

.SIDDHARTHA, PRINCE. 59. 

SIDHPUR, i8i. 

SIGIRIYA, R.H , 6S0. 

SIHOR, D.B., 205. 

SIKANDRA, 229, 242. 

SIKHIM, 430. 

SIKHS, Ixiv, l.x.xxvi, cli, 42, 
4?i 48, 49, 62, 296, 297, 300, 
313. 3^5, 316, 318, 325-6, 334, 
336, 339, 352, 353, 389* 

SILGHAR, 438, 440. 

SILIGURI (R.), D.B., 426. 
SILISERH LAKE, 199. 

SIMLA, 289-290 

Hotels: Cecil H., ex- 
cellent ; Grand {Peliti's) 
dL-i good ; Loivrie's H., on 
we Mall,^ close to the 
Church, Library and Club 
(open throughout the year ; 
Jt IS also an Agency for 
coolies, and general for- 
warding purposes); Long-- 
wood //. ; Elysium; Cor- 
storphanls H., excellent; 


Central ; Parry's : A ber- 
geldie ; Imperial; and 
R oyal. 

Clllirclies : Church of 
E ngland ; U n ion C h urch 
{und e n 0 m i national); 
Scotch; R.C. 

Banks : A lUance Bank ; 
Bank of Upper India : 
Delhi and London Bank; 
Panjab Banh'ng Co. ; Bank 
of Bengal. 

Newspapers : News of 
India 

Cbemists : Plomer ; 

Bliss: DazItS : Cotton. 

Pbotograpbers : Bourne 
(Sr* Shepherd ; Bremner ; 
Ilotz . King. 

Drapers ; Whiteaway 
Laidlaw; Clarke: Cow- 
meadow : Harrisofi, Hath- 
away If Co : Richards 
Tailors: Contis, Ran- 
ke n ; Phelps ; Fillingkam : 
T 7 ‘egown. 

General Merchants : 

Cotton If Moms. 

Clubs : I ^nited Service, 
above Combermere Bridge. 
Annandale Gymkhana C. 

Hospitals : Ri-ho n 
(chiefly for Indians); Lady 
Dutferin (for women) 

U "alkc 7 ’. 

.SINAITIC RANGE, the, 
h 

SIND, Ixiii, ^50. 

SIND VALLEY, 347. 
SINOHANAMA, D.B , 38. 
SINGHJANI, 437. 
SINHGARH,472. 

SINI, X21, 442. 

SIRATHU, 414. 

SIRHIND, 296-7. 

SIRI, 275. 

SIRSA(R.), 352. 
SITABALDI, 115-6. 
SIT\NG, 623. 

SITAPUR, 383. 
SITARAMPUR. 54- 

siVAji, Ixiv, I.xxxi.x-xc, 31. 

164. 440-2, 499, 575. 
SITASAMUDRAM,D.B. ,531 
SIWALIK FOSSILS, etc , 
83-4, 380. 381 

Slave Dynasty, Ixii, xiv. 

190. 

SOBR.AON, 353. 

SOCOTRA, Ivi. 

SOHAWA, 327. 

SOLON, 288. 

D B. excellent, and 

Khansama' s H. 
SOMNATH, 123, 124, iSi, 
189, 213-5, 23S. 
SOMNATHPUR, 530. 
SOMPALLE, 522.' 
SONADA, 427. 


SONAGIR, 147. 

SONAMARG, 347. 

SONARI, 143. 

SONEPAT, 283. 

SONEPORE, 419. 

SON GAD, 202 

This is the station for 
Palitana- Write to Dep. 
Ass. Pol. Agent for a con- 
veyance. 

SOOKNA, 426. 

SOPOR, 344. 

SPEZAND, 371. 

SR AVANA BELGOLA, 527. 

SRINAGAR (Kashmir), D.B , 
344- 

Nedou s Hotel, verygood. 

6 rs. per diem. 

Visitors to Srinagar gen- 
erally live in their house- 
boats, or in tents pitched 
in the various lovely groves 
which surround the city. 

The best camping grounds 
are the Munshi Bagh, the 
Ram Bagh, and the Nasim 
Eagh (on the Dal Lake). 

The Indian Agent (who 
is styled the Motamid 
Darbar) of the Maharaja 
for visitors will give wsyf 
information as to quartos, 
prices, coolies etc. » 

Banks : Panjab Ban^ ; 
also Messrs Co.v dr’ Co. 

Cockburn s Agency and 
the Kashmir General 
Agency undertake the 
hire of boats, tents, furni- 
ture, and all camp requisites, 
which should be ordered to 
be ready on arrival. They 
also advise xisitors as to 
purchases, and give every 
j kind of information. 

English Church Service 

ever}-^ Sunday in the new 
English Church in the 
Munshi Bagh. 

Missions: The C.M.S. 
has a station and doctors 
here, and a fine hospital. 

Kashmir Visitors’ 

Rules : Copies are obtain- 
able from the above 
Agent. 

There are fair Gunsmiths 
and Tacklemakers in the 
•■own. There is a Library 
from which travellers are 
allowed to take books out. 

Residency Surgeon 

attends visitors during the 
season. 

Photographers : Mr R. 

E. Shorter and Mr W. 
1 . amber t. 

SRINAGAR (Kathiawar), 

216. 



724 


INDEX AND DIRECTORY 


SRI RANGAM, 587. 

STRACHEY, SIR J,, 42, 234, 373 ? 

405- 

ST PAVID, FORT, 578- 
ST THOMAS’S MOUNT, 
558* 

ST THOME, 557. , , 

sruPAS, PAGODAS (dagobas; 

IN PURMA, xcv, ci, 27 I 
41, 57, 60, 7 i- 75 « 83, 106, I 
i37-t4i, 32q, 337. 459 > 4635 I 
465* 555.612.13,615-18,638, 
682-3. 

SUAKIN, Hi. 

SUEZ, xUx, 3. 

SUEZ CANAL, xhdi, 3- 
SUKKUR (R- and good rly. 
R.H.), 365-367- 
D.B. i m from the station 
SUKLATIRTH, 166. 
SULTANPUR, KULU, 292, 
293, 305- 

D. B. good- 
SUNAWIN, 344. 

SURAJ-UD-DAULA, 76, lOO. 

SURAMANGALAM (R-), 
559. See Salem. 

Railway” station for the 
town of Salem, and start- 
ing point for Yercaiid and 
the Shevaroy Hills. 

SURAT, 2, 163, 

E. Some sleeping accom- 
modation and Waiting 
Room at rly sta. D.B on 
river bank, near the Post 
Office, and about 2 m fiom 
rly. sta. 

Inlaid work and carved 
sandal - wood are still 
obtainable in Surat, though 
less than formerly, Bro- 
cade work, silks, and silver- 
gilt wire are manufactured. 
SUTANATI, 76, 98. ' 

SUTGATI, 486. 

SYDENHAM, I.ORD, 5, 14. 2I, 
469 

SYLHET VALLEY, 4 
D.Bs., 438. 

SYRIAM, 621. 

T. 

TADPATRl, D.B. in the 
town, 477. 

TAKHT-I-BAHAI, 336, 338, 
TAKHT- 1 -SULAIMAN, 344. 

TAKLI, 115. 

TALAI MAN AAR, Ceylon 
terminus of rly route to 
India — steamer to Dhanu- 
shkodi, 25 m., 594, 6S4. 
TALAWAKELLE, R H., 
663, 664. 


Chemists and Store : 

Jordan Co. (2) m.). 
TALBAHAT, D.B., 144- 
TALIKOTA, Ixii, 500. 
TAMLUK, ICO, 442- 
TANDUR, 505. 

TANGALLA, 674. 

R.H. remarkably good 
and pleasantly situated 
close to the sea, 

TANGROT, DB., 549 - 
TAN JORE (R ), 582, 584' 5 - i 

Rooms for five persons [ 
at the rly sta. | 

D.B., not very comfort- i 
able, close to station, to i 
the E, of the Little Fort. | 
where pony and bullock- j 
carts are available. 

Missi on : Y' .P.G. B ^es- 
leyan. 

TANSA WATER SUPPLY, 
29. 

TANSEN, 152. 

TANTIA TOPI, cliii, cliv, 149, 
156, 4CQ, 411. 

TANUR, 568. 

TAPTI BRIDGE, 3^^. 

TARA DKVI, oSS. 

TARAGARH. 190. 

TARIFA, xxxix 

TARN TARAN, D.B., 303- 

TATTA, 361. 

There IS only an Indian 
R.E. here, but there is a 
D.B. (food must be taken) 
on the Makli Hills 

TAUNG-GYI, 623 

TAVERNIER. 37 , HO, 222 . 232 , 


TAVOY, 640, 643- 
TAXILA, 310, 331.3 
TEA, 305, 429, 438, 44 °- 
TEESTA, D.B., 430, 441. 
TEESTA JUNCTION, 441- 
TELDKNIYA, 662 
TELLICHERRT, 570 

D.B. good. There is 
also an excellent little 

Club. 

TEMPLE, SIR K , 5, S, 70 

TEZPUR, D.B.,441. 
THABEIKKYIN, 632-3. 
THAL GHAT, 30, 32. 
THAN A, D.B,, 30. 

Diamond Jubilee H . ; 
Dkartnsala for Indians- 
THANA MANDI, D.B., 
348 

THANDAUNG, 623. 
THANESAR, 286. 
THARRAWADDY, 643-4. 
THATON, 633. 
THAYETMYO, 637. 


THEOG, 291. 

^ THERIA GHAT, D.B., 439. 
j aHOMAS, G., 285, 295, 351- 

THOMASON, J. , 41, 374. 

riKAMGAKH (Tehri). 15S. 

TILLA. 327- 

TIMER I FORT, 540. 

TIMUR, Ixni-iv, 251, 270, 275, 
277 > '-=84, 355 , 
T1NDHARIA{R.), 426. 
.TINJJIVANAM, 574. 

D.B. good. - 

TINNEVELLY, D.B., 597. 
i Missions : :s.F.G. station 
i (at Nazareth) ; C M S. 

I College : Baptist iSIhsion. 

TIXPAHAR, E.H , 49. 4^4, 
i 419. 

1 TiNSUKIA, 438. 

! IIPU, sultan, Si, 98, 319, 
522, 529-30 532-5- 53.’, 

551, 567, 509- 5711 598- 
TlRHUr, 419. 

TIRUPATI, 47S, 575- 

Kefreshment and sleeping 
reborns at Renigunta Junc- 
tion stvitiuu. Wi ite before- 
hand to station-nmstei for 
conveyance. 

TIRUR, 568. 

TIRUVALUR, 470 
TIRUVALUR(TaniureDi 
D B., 57S. 

TISSAMAHARAMA, 075 
TONGLU, 429. 
lO.SHAM (D B.), 351. 
lOUNGOO, 623, 626 

TOWERS OF SII.E.NCF-, 20, I 66, 

TRANQUEHAR, 05, 578. 
TRAVANCORE. 46S, 59S. 

540. 555. 


tkp:velyan, sir ' 

TRIBENI, 214 
TRICHENDUR, 597- 
TRICHINOPOLY (R.), 560, 
585 ' 7 ' 

Club : Trichinopoly C. 

Sleeping accommodation 
at rly. sta (tolerable, but 
rather noisy); Robert's H. 
in Cantonments; D.B. i m. 
from sta ; the last two are 
inferior. 

Missions; S.P.G.^ Wesleyaty 
Lutheran Evangelist ^ R C. 
Cathedral. 

TRICHUR, 566. 
TRIMALGIRi, 515- 
TRIMBAK, 35. 

TRIM MU GHAT, 303. 
trimurti (Triad), 23-4. loS. 
TRINCOMALEE, R H., 677, 
638*9, 692. 



INDEX AND DIRECTORY 


725 


Motor Service from } 
Anuradhapura, sc rs. and j 
10 rs. per seat 1 

Steamship Agents : | 

Ceylon Stea?nship Co. Ltd. \ 

TRIVANDRUM, 5 qS, ' 

D.B. clo^e to Residency, j 
Boats from Quilon, 2 rs. per j 
diem : each, rower i a, per I 
mile 

TUGHLAKAb\D, .-S. 251, 
252, 273, 23 i. 

'lUtlMLAK, ML’HAMMAD SHAH, 

102, 273, 475 - 
TULSi LAKE, 29. 
TUMKUR, 5^7- 

TUMPALANCHOLAI,6o7. 

TUNDLA(R), 4 'o- 
TUTICORIN (R.) D B . 5 g 6 - 
Railway Facilities : 
First and second class car- 
riages are run to and irom 
the pier in connection 
the departure and arri\al 
of the Mail steamers to | 
ana irom Colombo M aiting 
accommodation is provddeo 
at the station for ladies and 
gentlemen, anti there is also 
a Refreshment Room uTuier 
the manageiuent ot iVicssr,- 
Spencer iS; Co. InadditiOTi 
to the already existing 
railway station at Kizhur 
another station ha^ been 
opened in Melur 1 uticorin, 
which IS over halt a mile 
distant from Kllur station 
Shipping An*ange- 
msnts ■ A British India 
Steam Navigation Com- 
pany s steamer used to leave 
daily at 6 !• M- for Colombo, 
and one arrives from Cevlon 
(daily Mondays excepted) at 
about 7 A.M., the passage 
occupying about 13 hours, 
but the daily service ba-^ 
been temporal ily ''Us- 
pended ; and steamers ply 
twice a week each way • 

The journey between the 
pier and steamer is made 
in a steam launch belonging 
to the British India Steamer 
Agents at Tuticorin. ana 
occupies about 
quarters of an hati^* 

late, increased facilities for 

landing and shipping opera- 
tions at the Port hav e beer, 
given by the construction 
of a new Pier in additu m 
to the two already existing 
ones, a new’ customs gtoo&s- 
shed and shed lor stocking 
combustibles, and by re- 
clamation of the foreshore. 


Banks: Bank o/Ma Iras, 
National Bank oj India. 

Missions, Churches, &c. : 
The Society for the Propa- 
gation of the Gospel main- 
tains a Training School, .mJ 1 
a Secondary School named 
after the late Bishop I 
Caldwell. There are also 
a girls’ school and medical | 
dispensary managed by ■ 
the Mster.s of t^ie Holy 
Cross Ihe principal 
Roman Catholic Church is 
that of “Our Lady _ of 
Snows," an -ancient DuiiJ- 
ing said to have been con- 
sti acted by the I'oriugucse. 
Tne Je-'iiit'. have a -chool 
named ‘LSt Xavier’s 
^chooI. ” 

Club: A Club for Euro- 
peans is situated on the 
sea front 

U. 


1 VERAVAL, 212-3. 

Travellers may find it con- 
venient to get permission 
from the station-master to 
retain their first-class rly. 
carriage at the sta., and to 
sleep in it at night. There 
are a good R H. of the 
J unagadb State : a dkantn- 
sala^ several bungalows 
and a palace residence, 
occupied by officials and 
high personages in the hot- 
weather season. 

VERNAG, 346, 350. 

VICTORIA, QUEEN - EMPRESS. 
Sec Queen-Empress. 

VIJAYAN AGAR ( H ampi), 
477, 491, 500, 516, 519, 535> 
548, 56S, 572-3, 583. 

D.B. at Kamalapur, See 
Harttpi. 

VIKRAMADITYA, 128, 148. 

VILLUPURAM (R.), 478, 
^ D.B. I m. from rly. sta. 


UDAIPUR, 131, 248- 

Hotel, poor. Visitors 
should write beforehand to 
managej, as the accom- 
inudation is rather limited. 
Carriages and tongas can 
be hired. The public con- 
\ eyances are unusually bad. 

Medical Man- Colonel 
P.^atie, Resideuey Surgeon 
Mi ssion : U.F. C h u rch 
0/ Scotland, medical. 

UDAIPUR MAHAKANAS, 66, 

131, 134- 

UOAVAGIRI HILL, 143, 
445- 

UDVADA. 162. 

UDYAGIRI CAVES, R-H , 
445 

UJJAIN, D B , 127, 211 
ULUBARIA, 09, 442 
j UMARIA, 40, iig 
UMRANALA. iiS. 
UNDAVILLI, 459. 

I UNJALUR, 560- 
I UNJHA, 181. 

I UNKARJI, D.B., 122. 

I URL good. 343- 

! 


V.ADN.A-GAR, iSo. 
VALABHIPUR, 204. 
VASCO DA GAMA, 
480. S65, 5^7- 5^8. 
VEHAR L-VKE, =9- 
VELDURTI, 520- 
VELLORE, 47S, 536- 


; 4S7J 


VINDHYA HILLS, 124, 
1-25. 

VIR.-VMGAM, i3o, 200. 

Waiting Room at r ly^ sta. 
Dharmsala ne’>r Great 
Tank, w'ell furnished 
VISNAGAR, 180. 
VIZAGAPATAM, D.B., 457. 
Missions : L. 3 T. Soc. ; 

B.C. Cathedral. 
VIZIANAGRAAI (R.), 450. 

VOGEL, Dr J., 304, 313, 


W 

WADHWAN (R.), 202. 

D B. close to rly. sta. 
WADI, 476, 505. 

R and beds. 

WAGHNAKH, the, 482. 
WAI, 479- 
D B. good 

On side nearest Mahabal- 
eshwar Hill. 

VVAJID ALl, KING, OF OUDH, 

88 . 

WALA, 204. 

WALAJAH ROAD, 537. 
WALTAIR (R ), 457. 
WANDIWASH, 574 - 
W.ANGAT, 347. 
WANKANER, 217. 
WARANGAL, 114, 515. 
WARDHA. D.B., 114. 

Waiting and Refresh- 
ment Rooms at rly. sta. 

I WARGAON, 3, 465. 

I WARIVAPOLA, R.H., 678. 
i WARORA, D.B,, 114. 



726 


INDEX AND DIRECTORY 


WATHAR(R.), and Waiting 
Room at rly. sta., 479. 

Meals are provided for pas- 
sengers bound for Mahabal- 
eshwar, if previous notice 
be given. Tongas can be 
ordered by writing to the 
Mail Contractor; Tonga 
15 rs to 20 rs. ; Carriage 
21 rs to 31 rs. ; Motors 
to Mahabaleshwar 3 to 7 
persons, 60 rs, ; Mail 
Motor per seat 10 rs. , in 
season only. 

WATSON, AD.MIRAL, 3, 76, gO, 

97. 

WAZIRABAD (R.), D.B., 

95 , 323 ' 4 - 

WAZIRALI, 63 , 537 - 

WELIGAMA, R H., 674. 

WELT MAD A, R.H., 665, 

WELLAWAYA, R.H., 671. 

WELLESLEY, MARQUIS, cxlvi, 
9, 81, 549. 

WELLESLEY, SIR ARTHUR, I 
DUEE OF WELLING ! ON, clx, 

3 , 13, 37, 81, II2 114, I 


466, 469, 473, 530, 534, 549, 

551. 

WELLINGTON, 562. See 
M ettupalaiyam and Coo- 
noor. 

WELLS OF MOSES, 1 . 

WKRAGANTOTA, 662. 

WHEELER, GEN SIR H , 407, 
408, 409, 41 1. 

WILLINGDON, LORD, 5. 

WILSON GEN. SIR A., 254, 255, 

293. 

WULAR LAKE, 343. 
WYNAAD, 570. 


X 

XAVIER, Sr FRANCIS, 14, 96, 
488, 567, 597. 


Y 

YALA SANCTUARY, R.H., 
601, 

YAMKTHIN, 623 
VANAON. 577. 


YANKINTAUNG, 630. 

YAPAHUWA, 678. 

YARU KAREZ, 370. 

YATI YANTOTA, R.H., 657. 
669. 

YENANGYAUNG, 636. 

YENNA FALLS, 480. 

YERCAUD (Slievaroy Hills), 

559-60. See Salem. 

Hotels : Fair Lawns H. 
(under European manage- 
ment) ; Silver Oaks H. 

Z 

ZAFARABAD, 379. 

ZAIN-UD-DIN, SAIYAT), 
103. 

ZIARAT, good, D.B. open 
Maj- to Oct. ; accommoda- 
tion can be reserved for 
15 days at 1 r. per head 
per diem, on application to 
the Political Agent, Sibi, 
Tonga from Kach, 15 rs., 
37 ^' 



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JAIPUR HOTEL. An entirely new palatial edifice, built ^ 

by His Highness the Maharaja, double storied, with marble * 

plaster flooring and open verandahs overlooking beautiful 
spacious grounds, and a delightful view of the hills and Fort, 
situated near all places of interest and the Residency. The 
first class largest and ideal New Hotel in Jaipur, furnished 
with new furniture and lighted with incandescent gas. 
Accommodation — Excellent well-\xntilated single and double 
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Thorough cleanliness is kept. Particular attention is paid 
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Centrally situated overlooking the famous Nakki Lake. Best accommodation 
for Tourists, who will find Mount Abu a good resting-place. Mountain Scenery 
beautiful, Climate excellent and never very cold. Good Cuisine and excellent 
service guaranteed. Places of interest : Dilwara and Achalgarh Temples — 600 
years old— one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Hotel under Proprietor’s 
personal Management. Terms moderate. Accommodation for fifty tourists 
always available. Rickshaws available in Hotel. 

One hout^s run by Motor between Abu Road Railway station and Mottnt Ahtt. 
Char^e/or reserT>ed Motor 0/ five seats Rs. 32, and Rs. 7 for a single seat in morning or 
afternoon Mail Motor, or Mail Motor Bus, whichever available. Twenty lbs luggage 
allowed free for each ticket. Cook’s Hotel Coupons accepted. 


THE HISTORICAL RECORD OF THE 
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Compiled from the Official Records under the Orders of the Viceroy 
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